Spade Drilling a 1.5" Hole (at 4 inches a minute)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ต.ค. 2023
- My first time using a spade drill. I got very impressive results compared to a twist drill. Using a 1.5" diameter insert with a speed of 200 RPM and a feed of .0197"/rev gave a metal removal rate (MRR) of 7 cubic inches per minute.
Impressive results from those spade drills. With drilling times like that it could be worth setting up some hard stops on the table to reduce the set up time, when the batch size is large enough :)
Heya! First timer stumbling in here. Just wanna throw my 2 cents and observations onto this. ^^
As quick introduction i mainly did lathe work and deep hole drilling the last 5 years.
Never used a spade drill before, just gun drills, BTA/ejector's, trepanning tools and the usual twist drills in all sorts, sizes and coatings... just glanced at em in a catalogue and seen em sitting in tool racks on fairs and in machines... Tho also never needed one because of the specialized equipment at hand.
A same diameter gun drill won't run faster and a BTA not by much. Swarf is looking really good too and gets evacuated properly even tho the coolant pressure is quite low but it works on a machine with no trough spindle coolant so ima call that a win. For the setup and work you got that tool looks really good and now that i checked the prices too, yup, if i had no deep hole drilling machines around i'd get one too.
The surface finnish is not quite up to snug to what i'm used to see which would be around Ra ~2-6 for that diameter usually, i imagine at least. But i won't cry too much without having it measured or seen for real besides a 720p video! Could still be smooth as heck!
No offense towards the 720p quality btw, it's not shaky and nice to watch and listen.
Thanks for sharing and taking the time!
Happy drilling! :D
Thanks Sicstar. The surface finish at the beginning of the hole is poor and gets better as you go deeper. I think it is caused by swarf rubbing in the hole because my coolant pressure isn't high enough to evacuate the swarf from the deeper areas of the hole. If I start doing more spade drilling I will likely change my coolant set up to get more pressure to the drill. Ken
@@hmw-ms3tx have you tried roller burnishing the bore if you want a superior finish?
I've never tried roller burnishing before. For these parts the surface finish of the hole is not important as it is just a clearance space for a leadscrew to pass into. Later on I will bore out the first inch of depth on my lathe to pilot a flange nut (that I also have to make) for the leadscrew. This part ends up being similar in construction to a quill in a lathe tailstock. Ken@@chrisstephens6673
@@hmw-ms3tx If it's just for a leadscrew to have space inside the finnish doesn't really matter indeed. And like the other guy said burnishing is a thing, also i can say from own experience a flex-hone can help if needed. Or just saw a slit in a piece of wood and throw on some sandpaper and throw it on a drill, been there done that. lol
And yes, the chip evacuation is a bit iffy on lower coolant pressure but if you turn it up to 5 bar (70 psi) on that machine you can sweep out your shop floor wet and take a shower probably. ^^
Plus it probably won't make that much of a difference since if the surface get's better inside the hole chip evacuation is sufficient i guess.
Also when the drill isn't fully engaged yet reducing the feedrate till the whole tip is in the part by 30 to 60% helps with an "entering-funnel" where the diameter might be bigger at the start of the bore, i can imagine that might help with chips getting recut, might leave a small step tho where one goes out of the cut and ups the feedrate. At least in my bubble/on a cnc deep hole drilling machine... Which for you doesn't even matter even on those parts since you gonna spindle it out a bit anyways.
Damn. Wrote a whole essay again...
Pick from it what you like by the way and keep it up! 👌
I don't mind an essay. Usually a guy finds something usefull in them. Ken@@sicstar
I do cnc stuff and those kind of spade drills knock the socks off of ordinary twist drills. They're faster and if you have to drill many holes the insert price beats having to regrind drills many times over. I've used several of allied machine's tools and can confidently say that their recommend speeds are fairly conservative you would probably do ok if you ran that sfm they recommended. I would only worry about the amount of coolant flow you have.
Great result . I will look into those drills as i have a heap of 250mm long holes to do . 👍👍👍
I think you will be impressed if you get one. It was damn near enjoyable disposing of the swarf after the job was done. Ken
Impressive indeed. I've also seen other TH-camrs use these drills, with great results.
Gun drills are the killer
Even if wasn't much faster, the better chip control would be a pretty good sales pitch.
That was one of my favourite things about this drill. The easily handled swarf. Ken
I do almost all my drilling with spade drills, works great especially on Hor borers.
Does from 14mm to 300mm diameter for me, atleast for drilling.
They dont handle pilot or core holes well, but if you use a stubby one you can get away with it if the burn out/core isnt to far off center.
Showa also makes really good spade type drills
Nice chip control. Did you harden the v blocks? Are you adapting the faceplate that’s tucked behind the HBM to use on the HBM? Like you videos!
I didn't harden the vee-blocks as they are just mild steel and unhardenable. To do a proper hardening job you would also have to finish grind them and I don't have a grinder that could do that. The old chuck next to the HBM was off my large lathe. It was hopelessly worn out when I got it but I may make a boring/facing head out of it. It's a steel chuck so it is very strong and stiff. Ken
Love this. --Doozer
Thanks Doozer. So do I. Ken
Looks good!
If your bottle neck is the change out, can you set up another bar on the opposite side of the table and then just rotate it 180 and start drilling while you’re changing out the one that was just drilled?
New subscriber btw. 👍
The little darling marches right on down through like no tomorrow. Gotta like that.👍
What a sweet chip!
So at .25mm chip thickness, (.5mm feed per rev for 2 cutting edges)
Compared to .1mm chip thickness, (7 thou”/rev) for a HSS Drill,
With the higher SF/M and a whole lot of factors like constantly retracting the drill to clear swarf.
On a quoted job that drill just about paid for itself.
Can the tool use different width spade inserts?
That would be advantageous, even if it was a 5mm range of sizes..
Yes, the higher feed rate and higher surface speed (and I could increase that as well but I may run out of horsepower) help, but I think the biggest time saver is not having to constantly start/stop the feed (to break the chip) and stop/retract the spindle to unwrap the swarf/reset the coolant hose. One thing that surprised me was that I could feed the drill under power right from the beggining. Most videos I have seen guys hand feed them in until the drill is cutting the full diameter and then they engage the power feed. The drill usually jumps around quite a bit in those videos until it starts cutting the full diameter. I started doing it that way but my drill seemed very stable so I decided to try power feeding right from the beginning. To my surprise it worked quite well although I'm not sure why. The drill bodies can take different sized inserts. This one will drill from 1-13/32" to 1-7/8". Ken
@@hmw-ms3tx that’s nearly 12mm of range (35.72 to 47.63mm) for one tool, that’s impressive!
Top darts that Man, no need to push it let the tool do the work.
I’ve had pretty good experiences with smaller and shorter space drills (20-40mm around 300-500mm in length). We’ve got some 700mm long 35mm ones that are abit inconsistent. Great vid though.
I use a yg1 spade drill with an m48 insert (HHS/CO) for drilling managanese steel. The job wouldnt be possible without it. 2 question do you have a horizontal boring mill in your garage? And are you related to @ave because you sound like cousin's. Cheers
By manganese steel I assume you are talking about wear plates? I have never successfully drilled those (Hardox 450, in my case) with a twist drill. What size of holes did you drill and what type/size of machine did you do it on? My shop used to be in my garage but I didn't have my HBM back then. I have been in an industrial shop since 2019. My truck was in the background as we were supposed to get our first snowfall of the season and I didn't feel like scraping ice off my windows. I'm not realted to @ave (as far as I know). We both come from the northern half of western Canadian provinces so we may sound similar. Ken
@hmw-ms3tx so I drill 1.5 inch holes 1.5 times diameter in 3.5" rolls b of the stuff. I use the YG1 M48 spade bits at about 25rpm on a 100 year old machine lol. I currently use air but want to switch the machine to coolant. Thanks for sharing
Enjoyed, I know the video was about the spade drill, but I sure wished you showed the V block setup/changeover…
I probably should have showed the set up. My problem is I now film everything with my phone and I don't have a way of mounting my phone to a stand. I have to hold the phone in one hand all the time and that makes doing the part changeover difficult. One day I'll buy/make some kind of mount and make videos like I used to with my camera. Ken
Very nice v blocks they are too
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Have you ever tried these without through spindle coolant? It seems like on of the big stumbling blocks to using spade drills on older equipment.
This machine doesn't have through spindle coolant. The coolant inducer I showed in the video allows you to flow coolant through the spade drill by attaching a coolant hose to the inducer. My biggest problem is low pressure which has a hard time clearing the swarf when the hole gets deeper. Ken
@hmw-ms3tx a few gunsmiths I've met use similar inducers for reaming chambers. Apparently 60-80 psi works well.
My thought is more for people who can't afford such a set up. Rotary unions are not cheap. Supposedly a few guys on practical machinist have gotten ok success down to 3-4x diameter with just flood coolant.
I was surprised at the price of the coolant inducer (rotary union). It was only $110 Canadian. Compared to the drill body (around $400 Cad) it wasn't too bad. It can also be used on all No. 4 Morse taper drill bodies, so you only need one for a large range of hole sizes. Before this I have always used flood coolant. It works very well in vertical applications (gravity pulls the coolant to the cutting edge), but it's a struggle on horizontal set ups.@@moosesmachinery
@@hmw-ms3tx Hi, you could also consider to add a second coolant pump to the tank (on a simple extension cord) with higher flowrate, which you can hook up to the drill. Second hand they're not too expensive where I live. Ofcourse the amount of holes you plan on drilling with this drill is going to justify the purchase and the effort needed to install.
Kind regerds.
Nice. It got busy in a hurry.
It certainly did. I was pleasantly surprised that I could drill under power feed right from the start. Most of the videos I have seen the drill jumps around alot until it cuts full diameter and usually you hand feed it through that stage. For some reason mine was very stable. Hopefully not just beginners luck. Ken