A Better Way To Calibrate Your 3D Printer. Importance of Dimensionally Accurate 3D Printed Products
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ต.ค. 2021
- Hey everyone. I want to talk about the importance of dimensional accuracy when running a 3D Print farm and selling products. I hope the information is useful to you and helps you achieve the highest level of accuracy for your products. Thanks for watching.
link to calibration print: www.thingiverse.com/thing:502...
Caliper I use: amzn.to/3T28Sac
Dial Gauge Used in other videos: amzn.to/3I6ySLi
My Favorite Filament (Hatchbox PLA): amzn.to/3SILXiU
Ender 3 Silicone Spacers (A must have over springs): amzn.to/3UH6fvJ
PEI Flex Plate: amzn.to/3UOncUW - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
tolerance must be measured in decimal not in percentage. 20.06 and 100.06 has same tolerance. but if you convert in percentage there will be Major difference between two.
You are correct. I used percentage as a way to make a comparison.
It is clear that the deviation is not caused by the movement of the motors, gears and belts, but certainly in extrusion, so you should not try to make modifications on the number of steps/mm or scaling the STL at the slicer. You must then try to correct using extrusion factor (in this case reducing from 100%) and to obtain the percentage it must be done with measuring wall thickness (printing the cube without infil, only 2 walls stopping the print at about 5 mm of height), but be sure that your nozzles are in perfect condition.
Nozzle holes are too tight and if made of brass can easily be damaged if it hit the table or some parts and it modify the result of extrusion.
Vatiation between the layers (Z axis) are linked to belt adjustment and extrusion (and, of course, speed) too.
Don't forget the extruder: these bowden type extruder mecanism are subject to have some variation because of the movement and restrictions inside the tubes. I think it could be more precise if it is direct drive extrusion.
haha exactly
I think he meant margin of error, or error relative to the part
This is because of material shrinkage which gets worse with more infill and more walls. So it´s really hard to calibrate to but we can make some approximations.
Like 0.5% shrinkage with PETG, you can now simply scale your part by 100.5% in your slicer and voila.
This is why your cube will be fine since it´s tiny and a 200mm piece will be off by about 1mm.
Also what YOU measure with the cube is the "corner bulge" never measure corners, always round up your calibration pieces since the corners will have acess material. Measure in the middle of the cube, this alone will be more precise by 0.2mm.
makes me feel better that I up-scaled the cube up to 100mm. but I love how your design is because it also helps show holes/bridging even over a short span
Amazing findings, thanks for the calibration design, going to print one now.
Solid advice. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
I like your calibration sheet too. It's great for tracking and to make sure you keep it on point in a schedule
Thanks so much for the video! I've been pulling my hair out trying to get repeatable accuracy but those dang cubes always come out so inconsistent and have inconsistent layers themselves. You made me realize we've been calibrating wrong this whole time.
You definitely earned a subscriber in me!!!!
Awesome Tip! Never thought about it this way before. Thanks a lot! 😁
I think you are super right about that, even though i already did not use the cube because of my very same experience.
This is amazing! Thank you. I hate using cubes but for some reason I just haven’t stopped using them. Until now. I also really appreciate you mentioning the over extruded corners. So frustrating! I’m going to use your calibration model from now on.
Great video! It’s logical, if you cal small and then print bigger you multiply the margin of error whereas if you cal big and print smaller then you divide the margin !! I print and sell prototypes from the engineer at my job, will be calibrating this way from now on !
my calibration cubes don't have elephant foot problems and the layers are way more even. you have something else going on like maybe loose belts or x,y,z rollers loose. your make sure you z rod isn't bent.
I've only been printing for fun and dimensional accuracy hasn't been critical. But if it's as simple as calibrating with something other than the cube then I'm more happy to get better results from my printer! Thanks!
Go on then, have another subscriber!
I've had an E3V2 for a few months now. I've installed an SKR Mini E3, BLTouch and have spent a good amount of time learning how to calibrate etc. Currently in the process of building a Prusa i3 mk3s for a more reliable print.
It's a never ending learning curve though, videos like this help.
Solid video man thanks! Have a great day
Wow I have to say this made so much difference. Tried twice with the 20mm cubes and I was still getting results that were out, but with your 100mm test print my printer is now bang on. First print (after trying with cubes) was 99.3, 98.5, 99.6, second test after adjustment was 100.01, 100.03, 100.00.
The 20mm cubes are just too small, so absolutely any printing variation translates into how accurate you can measure them. Turns out that using the cubes made my printer go from over sized at the stock settings to under sized. At worst its now 0.03% out, which to me is bang on.
How do you actually calibrate it though? Let's say I found out I'm off by 0.3mm how which settings do I adjust to compensate for that?
@@1SmokedTurkey1 there are other videos that explain how. It's slightly different for each printer.
@@chrism2964 been specifically trying to find it but I can’t seem to find the right search term “calibration adjustment” doesn’t bring up anything useful. Can you guide me somewhere? I have a Bambu P1S
Many ways to calibrate a 3d printer to what you are doing. Most would measure distance traveled on the axis and use Flow Rate to control but you are using a method which works for a specific print. Your elephants foot is either banding or you have the nozzle to close at the start of the print, or both. The banding on the cube you showed looked to be banding. Sounds like you care about your product which is a great thing! Good idea, nice design and quality control! Nice!
I am going to use this on my CR-10. I always thought the same way about the calibration cube. It is so small that the percentage your printer is off is shown by such a small measurement difference in something so small. Your calibration print looks really good.
Agreed! The bigger the dataset, the more accurate the reading. It averages any minor measuring variables over a much longer distance which drops % of error significantly.
if he can't use vernia gauge, then he will never get accurate data, no matter how big his spreadsheet is
Excelent Information! Go ahead with this videos!
TYVM this is the type of info ppl need :D
Thanks for your advices, are very helpful.
thank you for the video, this will solve so many of my probelms.
Thanks for the great tip, and for the drawing.
Printing your XYZ calibration as I type this. Just before this I did the nozzel extrusion check and after 5 extrudes of 100mm I am getting an average of 100.03mm. Crazy. This is on an Ender 3 S1 Pro. Thanks for all your videos. It’s so refreshing watching someone that’s not a professional TH-camr reviewing printers that were given to them like “it’s a great printer!” Yeah no kidding they payed you to say that. So far I’m following your advice with leveling and extrusion and stuff and the proof in the pudding is in the eating or whatever that saying is.
While looking online I see people, including me, are printing holes that are about .4mm undersized. Have you come across this? Have any fix for this?
Oh yeah, and I just subscribed. Keep doing what you do. Cheers from Sweden.
They are not payed. You are overextruding because you need to calibrate steps per mm. I have the same printer, after calibrating the steps I get the exact 100mm. A manufacturer can't make the steps exact because it depends on ambient temperature, the filament you are using, among other things, so you need to calibrate it yourself.
Nice video! Thanks!
I’m a kind of calibration fanatic!
In my channel I’m always talking about the importance of calibration.
An I almost never print the cube. Just for extrusion multiplier.
Very good! I’d like to make a live with you in my channel. And dont worry about language barrier… It’S funny to translate during the live!
Hi, you are absolutely right. Thanks, subscribed
You point out very good discrepancies. No matter the filament, you should get closer tolerances with the same roll and settings.
Excellent video, thanks!
Great video, I will try calibrating my Ender 3v2 with your tower, My prints are a hit or miss at the moment and I'm doing a lot of research lately as to why...
I started maybe a month ago and my prints were flawless, and half way through the new PLA spools I ordered (some cheap Chinese make) my hot-end fan died I started having all sorts of problem with skipping layers, heat creeping ghosting and generally really bad looking prints.
I did get a replacement fan but my prints were never the same.
I tried drying the material in the oven @50 C for a few hours, lubricated and re-aligned the X-axis, cleaned the hot end several times with the needle and cold pulls, got a CR touch for auto bed leveling and upgraded the firmware to Jeyrs. Another thing I played a lot with is slicer settings, copied and tested a bunch of different settings from content creators who use Ender 3 v2 to try and correct those issues.
I am now waiting on new material eSUN PLA+ and Overtune PLA spools, an anti backlash spring (which might help with the elephant foot you're having as well) and a couple of 4020 fans to use with Briss Fang cooler, but one thing I haven't tried is to calibrate my e-steps which I didn't think of because of because I didn't change any parts so far besides replacing a fan and the prints were great when I just started.
Perfecting 3D printing is a long process but I'm so interested in the process I almost don't mind when my prints go wrong because its another lesson lol
Trial and error is definitely the key to learning! Once you dial everything in, its an easy process to rinse and repeat for more printers. The more printers you have the more you start to learn because the issues are replicated across many printer, and when you find a solution, you know it was the right one because all of your remaining printers have the issue corrected as well. I learned the most about the ender 3 v2 when I started managing 6 printers. I now have 17 and still learning everyday.
The single biggest change I made to my v2 regarding print quality is swapping to dual blower fans and the hero me fan ducts. The one dinky fan it ships with was never up to the task and even if the fan was amazing it still only blows one direction. I would also recommend a bowden tube mod using a short piece of capricorn from the back of the nozzle to just before the fitting on top of the heatsink. Then that short run is sacrificial if need be and I use the stock white tube the rest of the way so I can see problems if the arise. I previously had changed the whole tube to the capricorn but ended up having to keep replacing it every couple of months. Here's a video explaining it better than I can.
th-cam.com/video/7tCxO17XZtw/w-d-xo.html
From a Metrology fan who just realized you can calibrate your Esteps, you just earned yourself a sub!
i was just wondering why on earth did anyone thought of using a 20mm calibration cube for something with a 200mm+ bed XD
I'm just getting started as a maker and this advice should help a lot. Any screw holes I set in my prints always came out slightly oval, which threw everything out, I'll try this and see if that fixes the issue.
Great stuff. Would love to get your guidance on z offset adjustment and belt tensioning too. Maybe u already covered those two things.
Very good information, i have some problems with tolerances, i was thinking in this, good work
I noticed that the 20 mm test cubes were off by around 0.05 mm and that the 100 mm test shape was also off by approx 0.05 mm which means the printer is consistent in it's actual dimensional deviation. Creating test shapes that roughly match the largest dimension of a print is a great solution. It should produce more accurate calibration with less effort. Thanks.
yup, i always scale my cube to 150mm and only print a few mm high to at least get an idea of my x and y. then i print a 150mm tall cube and adjust accordingly. The smaller the cube or part, the more thermal expansion, and tolerance loss
Good video and a way to get better prints. However the real reason for the inaccuracy in the Z is because of the use of lead screws with backlash so the first few layers are compressed (elephants foot). The only way to eliminate this fully is to go belted Z drive.
This is really good content, I really appreciate you sharing your experience, and it inspires me to do the same if ever get where you are
Thank you Michael! I hope to continue to inspire and help you make your ideas come to life!
Grate video
Awesome, because I'm doing the same project, except I'm making a case for the case that you make for the manufacturer's case. Seriously tho, this has saved me from printing more 20mm cubes with varied results.
You are exactly correct in using a longer sample, the longer the sample is the more accurate your measurement will be. I’m a long time DIY CNC guy, and we set out steps per inch in the system utility if we set up our machines using a one inch distance to calculate the steps it will not be very accurate as your 20 MM blocks show, we always to longest distance that we can on each axis this yields a much more accurate steps per inch figure, thus making our cuts all that more accurate.
To speed measurement and accuracy you could set up a little gage stand consisting of a fixed stop and opposite that a dial indicator, The dimension could be mastered with your calipers, this would make measurement faster an more accurate.
This process being an additive process there are more things that effect to final dimension, filament size, pressure, friction and on.
Good luck
Hager
Thank you for the excellent idea on creating a test fixture for consistent measurement! I will look into creating one.
@@collect3d when you are making a living doing this time and quality are so important. And a test fixture will help you so much. Much more accurate than trying to insure you have the narrow calipers making an accurate reading.
@@IH1940HAY what I have been doing is laying my caliper flat on the table, and taking a measurement. The table surface has been my jig to make sure I keep the calipers parallel to the axis I am measuring. The test fixture is a much better alternative! 👍
That's brilliant idea, I was going to get a dial gauge, and this just added to the reasons for getting one
thank you friend!
thanks for sharing!
Good stuff man
Tus vídeos son inspiradores, gracias.
Gracias a ti Adolfo :)
Good advice! TY!
I love that spreadsheet completely filled! lol
Thanks lol I try to be thorough
If you are selling a product, I think getting pressure advance /linear advance and input shaping set would really raise quality, speed and repeatability.
That is something I definitely want to test out!
Great content. You earned a new sub. How about a follow-up video on how you use your model to calibrate your printer?
Thanks Ben! I have a video out that shows how to calibrate. Hope you enjoy!
thanks for this, going to use and calibrate my printer tonight , + 1 sub :)
Z is heavily reliant on temp. Without an enclosure and a way to regulate it, the temperature of your room is going to change the z axis slightly.
My first print was a calibration cube and have no problems. The Cube it is exactly 20.00x20.00mm. But well, I don't print with a Creality but with a Longer LK5 Pro.
Great tip!!
Thank you!
Nicee information :D
temp, flow, e-steps, retractions, etc will make the size vary each and every time. it will never be exactly the same each print. You want really better prints. Get Kipper and do the vibration calibration on it and then use SuperSlicer to make it the best possible slice of a print. when i look at your cube i see the corners not sharp. They are bulging out. I also see that the Z layers. some are bigger then others. i don't know. why but i don't use the narrow part of the calipers. I move the part up to the flat part of the calipers. also when you do that type of measurement. the calipers can be skewed just a little but and not entirely square. point A-B. I wouldn't use that cube for 0.0X calibration. Within. 0.5 is decent.
Klippers is definitely something I want to try out.
Ty i will try it.
I subscribed because of this video, thank you for the video
Thank you!
Thanks for the calibration print, it really helped calibrate my Ender 5 pro which wasn't possible with the cube. My question is what is the purpose of the holes in the part? Do you think it's necessary? because it only slows down the printing speed.
I ended up removing the holes. So essentially they are pointless lol. It was a newbie mistake
hi it's realy intreasting what you propose i will try it but in the mean time i have this probleme the outer dimension of my 3d printes parts are accurat but the inner dimension like if there is a hall or square in the middle of the part the dimension of that hall or sqaure are smaller by 0.4 mm in X and Y axis do you have maybe an asnwer for that thank's
good advice thanks
If your measurements vary from print to print, what parameters do you adjust to "tighten" things up and get what you're printing to be more accurate?
thanks for this video. it is still unclear how you would calibrate your printer. What are the actual steps you use to dial in your printer
Hey thx for the information. Im still new to this but does this applies to TPU filament? Thx!
I have never used TPU so I cannot confirm.
How do you calculate the steps pet mm then for X Y and Z with his designe? I don’t understand
when you sit and think about you quite correct, hot plastic will not do what you want all the time, thanks
Came across this looking for help with my calibration cube but...do you have an STL for your PSA card holder? I can only find the regular stands. Thank you!
Hey Mink sorry I don't have the files available or for sale at the moment.
Thanks for your video! I tried your calibration file. But with the updates steps I find that screw holes are now printed elongated. X and Y are no longer equal as in the factory Settings of my Ender 3 pro. Is there more to it?
Hey Stephan, there shouldn't be any difference, as long as your x and y measurements both read 100mm the holes should not be an issue.
Do we need specific settings for this?
Mechanical engineers refer to this problem as "tolerance stack-up". The solution is to calibrate to the largest dimension whenever possible.
hi. i just started 3d printing but my prints rarely fit lol how do i use your 100mm thing to calibrate??
For the most part the mechanical dimensional calibration of the printer will be accurate out of the box.
In order to calibrate that completely accurately is going to be extremely difficult from a printed model as the variation due to extrusion width is much greater.
If you print 5 20mm test cubes and average out the dimensions and calculate the average deviation then repeat that with a 40 x 40 or 60 x 60 set of 5 cubes, you will likely find the average deviation is the same in both cases.
For example a 20 x 20 set may average out to 20.06 on the x.. the chances are high that if you print a 60 x 60 set it will average out to 60.06. I have performed this test on Ender 3 series and confirmed the results, the deviation does not increase with model size therefore is independent of the mechanical positioning of the nozzle.
The deviation is from the extrusion variability caused by filament diameter variation and slack in the delivery system such as introduced with a bowden system. Having tested a number of filaments with a guaranteed max deviation in all cases but one so for they have exceeded it to some degree!
The upshot being that the smaller the part you make, the lower the dimensional accuracy you can achieve.. If you have an average deviation of +0.06 across both 20mm and 100mm for example, the best you can do is adjust flow to nudge that down so your deviation is -0.03 to + 0.03 and centre the error on the dimension you are aiming for.
Tramming is also important for dimensional accuracy, and extremely difficult to get completely accurate, for example, if your z frame is 0.2mm out leaning slightly forward, then a printed part will vary in its z dimension along the y axis, the front being shorter than the back.
Most consumer printers will have a specified resolution of 0.1mm, despite them being capable of moving the nozzle in much lower increments, because these miniscule errors are almost unavoidable and so 0.1mm is about as accurate as you can reasonably maintain. Highly tuned you may get that down to 0.05 if you are good..
You are correct that the deviation will be the same no matter what size print you make. The issue is when you do the math to calculate your e-steps. By using 20mm with a deviation of .06 vs 100mm with a deviation of .06 that gets calculated in the e-steps formula and in my experience has caused scalability issues when doing the math against 20mm. Once I started doing the math against 100mm it solved my issues.
@@collect3d I understand what you are saying.. but if the error does not scale with the size, then the error is not related to the steps/mm calibration in the first place, if you calibrate the steps at a larger size, then smaller prints will be too small...
If you have a steps/mm out of calibration, the larger the print the larger the average error.. taken to extreme..
If your 20mm cube comes out at 22mm... then a 40mm cube will be 44mm, a 100mm cube will be 110mm if it were a steps/mm issue..
on the other hand, if you get 22, 42, 102mm then the error is nothing to do with steps/mm, so whichever way you calibrate it you will be introducing dimensional errors at another print size..
On a stock printer these calibrations are normally done from the factory, because they are relating to physical gearing of the drive train, in the vast majority of cases a small difference, 20.1mm for a 20mm cube.. 40.1mm for a 40mm cube, the issue is flow rate and walls that are thicker than they should be.. so calibrating flow rate would be the way to go..
If flow rate is good, and you still have a consistent average error across print sizes, you can bring the x/y into line using horizontal expansion.. so if after calibrating flow and getting the correct extrusion width of the lines the average error is 0.06mm too big across different print sizes, using a horizontal expansion setting of -0.03mm (its per side) will bring the cube to the correct size across all print sizes.
Errors in the z direction, which is usually short rather than long, are nearly always due to compression of the base layers which also results in elephants foot because the layers squash more near the heat of the bed. Reducing bed temp will normally greatly improve this, IMO with creality glass beds, the temp needs to be so high for good adhesion that elephants foot is inevitable, I decided that the lower temp and dimensional accuracy and no elephants foot was preferable so I just use glue stick and lower bed temps, I get correct z dimension and no elephants foot so 2 plus points for one glue stick negative.
It is a fundamental misunderstanding of what the steps/mm is actually for, they are to set the correct movement based on the gearing of the stepper gears/ pulleys/ lead screw pitch etc.. they do not vary from machine to machine, they are mechanical fixed gearing the same on every printer of that type and model, all the pulleys are the same, all the lead screws are the same, all the steppers are the same angle and steps.. all the calibrations are the same value UNLESS you change the gearing, and the calibration is done at the design stage..
How do you work out the correct data to put into cura
The woman who yelled "hey" towards the end just about gave me a heart attack laying in bed watching this at 11:30 at night with everyone else sleeping in the house hahaha
lol we have some bad puppies in the house that always need correcting!
Whats the barrier to entry in doing injection molding? I'd love to know more info about it if I can use my printers to make the molds to then to injections for car parts etc.
I know people are using SLA printers to make molds, haven't seen any made from FDM.
from 62 subs at time of upload to 2.7k in a yr. way to go.
this is why got more from a calibration x and faster the needed changes
Where do you calibrate? Just in scaling? Or do you really dial in the steps/mm first and then just the shrinkrate by scaling?
I dont scale at all. I calibrate the steps per MM
Good work on your video, question this is only for X and Y only I see when I printed it there was NO Z on it? Or assume that's Z.
That's correct. The z is vertical.
@@collect3d Why I ask It was the corners where not rounded off like on the X and Y. Thank you for the help.
So what are the ways you adjust the printer then, do you update slicer settings, or do you adjust number of steps per mm, or do you adjust printer's mechanics somehow ... ?
I do not change slicer settings because I have to use the same gcode file for 17 other ender 3v2s that I have. The adjustments I make are gantry leveling and bed leveling. I also check for excessive backlash in my lead screw which I made a video about that.
I’ve had pretty decent luck with accuracy. Usually within 0.02mm depending on the filament I used anyway.
This is not a calibration problem. This is en engineering problem.
Since you're smart enough to know the dimensions of your prints will never be 100% spot on, you should engineer another solution to make sure that
your product works as expected.
In this case i would add a thin layer of filament all around inside the case so the the acrylic slab will fit in a little tighter and stay put.
Not ideal but it would work. The user would just have to exert extra force to push the acrylic piece in and out of the case.
You can also make them bigger and make space for a thin layer of rubber strip so the rubber will hold the acrylic and compensate for any dimensional inaccuracy.
The possibilities of solutions are endless but you chose to go the hardest route.
100% agree, I just want to make as little compensation as possible. Been printing my product for two years now straight from the machine to customers door without any issues.
How are you imputing your findings into calibrating the extruder. Flow ?
Hi Sean, I’m going to make a video soon on how to calibrate the printers e steps. In the mean time you can view this video that I followed when I Originally calibrated my printer. The only thing I did differently was use my 100mm print, and change his excel formula to reflect 100mm instead of the 20mm in his calculator. It’s an excellent video to get you started
th-cam.com/video/SN9NCn-Dhf8/w-d-xo.html
It would be nice to make a video on how to calibrate.
You will help many new Ender 3 V2 users.
I have a video up on how to calibrate. Thanks for watching!
I watched the video, searched the comments, and looked on thingiverse. But I could not find a mention of the print settings you use for the calibration test? Like how many walls, top/bottom layers, % infill, flow %...etc. So I was wondering, what are your typical slicer settings when testing your calibration part?
The slicer settings should be what you decide to use for your prints. There is no wrong or right answer to your profile. In my printing farm every printer and every file I create use the exact same profile. So that profile is what I use for my calibration print. I do use 10% Infill and walls. The layer height and other settings are your preference!
How could I adjust it in the Orcaslicer for X1C Bambu Lab? I have 99,80mm on X, 99,87mm on Y and 99,84mm on Z.
You can't adjust steps on bambu firmware. You have to compensate in the slicer, I don't use those products so I can't give instructions how.
Isn't elephant foot caused by print head being too close to bed in first layer?
In top layer maybe the ironing setting is wrong?
Maybe wrong I don't know just an idea. I am trying to find a solution to get better prints myself.
So far no luck with my Geeetech A20 printer
In this example, the 2nd layer is oozing over the first layer because the z is not moving up high enough as it should. So this is causing the elephants foot.
Can you elaborate on which things you changed on the printer during the calibration? Just extrusion multiplier?
The e-steps for the extruder, x y and z is all I've changed.
for sure you have got the nozzle too close to the bed - if you look at your 20-20-20 mm cubes you can see it clearly!
This is exactly what I found on my Ender 5 pro.
My Z axis is spot on. but my X/Y axis are off 0.15mm. The external perimeter is 0.15mm too large and internal features is 0.15mm too small...any ideas?
my take on it is calibrate motion system itself, not print itself because you never know how filement thickens would scure the measurment and throw off all your calibration either by changing the flow calculation of base or simply making too wide or too narrow lines of print and slicer calculate size of object based on that by offseting nozzle inward of the model by half of programmed line thickness
for x y take a piece of paper, home printer on a piece of paper sticked to the table , move nozzle up a bit, then move to x y 50 50 drop the nozzle on the paper and move axiex 100mm or anything really in a square of known size
if the nozzle get to the point the motion system itself is not sloppy, if not you need to fix printer first
if it does go back to the starting point exactly you just measure the square scratched on the paper then you calibrate line thickness in the slicer!
z is a bigger problem because it is hard to measure if z screw is accurate but you can do it without even printing anything just by moving it up and down by known amount and measuring bed to gantry distance
calibration cubes are not ment to calibrate steps per milimeter , they are only used to calibrate flow by measuring horisontal expansion and size doesn't really matter when your motion system is calibrated corectly printing 20x20 x20 should give you cube this size plus minus any error made by filement spreading too far or too little and error will be the same no mater the scale of the object
calibrating motion system using printed models as scale makes you only calibrated for one size of the object, the same size as your test print, and everything else will be a bit wrong
Can you post the Fusion file? I wanna make one that's 150mm which is pretty much the max of my calipers. at some point id like to try and calibrate for the entire bed. then anything smaller than that should be just fine. also, what are your infill/wall settings? currently, with my settings, it says it will take 3-4 hours.
I use 10% Infill with 2 walls
@@collect3d OK so check this out.. no matter what size I print calibration I am always exactly 0.1 short on the Y-axis vs the X-axis. what would you do to troubleshoot such a thing?
@@rayge if the deviation is the same for every size.. for example over 20mm it is 20.1 over 40mm it is 40.1 over 60m it is 60.1.. then not much is going to help. If you adjust the steps/mm you will introduce a change in dimension as the model size increases so you maybe get 20mm correct but then 100mm will me 0.5mm short.
Also as stated in the video, be aware of the rounded corners bulging and affecting readings! only measure from the top down in the middle of two sides.. or at two points on the sides and average even better.
I was printing xyz cubes on my ender 5 pro and noticed I have a problem with the z-axis of the cube being “smushed down”. Do you know what it could be?
You could have binding of the z axis. Something may be causing the z axis to not move up smoothly. Check your lead screws and v rollers and make sure everything's is moving smoothly. Try spinning the v rollers by hand to make sure they are not too tight.
How do you account for material shrinkage into the Calibration print? If I measure this using PETG should I scale the print this up by 0.8% to account for material shrinkage?
What I have done is I have waited until the part has cooled down to take measurements. Then calibrate. That way the shrinkage is factored into the calibration.
im still getting realy bad elephan foot on the bottom. any advice?
Check out my other video on elephants foot. It has helped a lot of people solve their problem.
I think upgraded extruders would improve the repeatability of your ender 3.
but how do you use that tool to calibrate?
Out of curiosity, do you have a video of your calibration process?
I do. Please look at my channel you will see a video on how to calibrate
may i ask what should be changed when the calibration is not what we expected? modify design and troubleshoot what's wrong with printer?
Definitely troubleshoot the printer. Your printer should output the exact dimensions your design has at least to .05mm tolerance.
I'm confused as to which orientation I'm supposed to print this. Is the x supposed to be pointing towards me or to the side?
If you are looking at the printer, the X will be pointing to the left side. Hope this helps!
@@collect3d thank you. That helps a lot