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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2024
- Get the Calibration Flow and Written Guide: vector3d.co.uk/product/califl...
Quite simply, this 3D Printer calibration method greatly improved my prints. This calibration flower is a simple and robust method for calibrating the X and Y axis of your 3D printer to get more dimensionally accurate prints. I hardly need to show you how to calibrate your 3D printers, you simply, print, measure and update your settings. Most instances only require a single print to get amazing results but if your printer is poorly set up, you may need to repeat the process a second time for best results. In my opinion it's the best 3d printer calibration method available at the moment.
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0:00 How Accurate is your 3D Printer?
0:38 Calibration Cubes
1:07 How Size Affects Error
1:37 Internal And External Dimensions
2:22 Filament Shrinkage
2:49 Text Ruins Dimensions
3:13 Don't Ignore Skew
4:05 My Calibration Flower Design
7:30 Celebration - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Very clever approach, I think this is first skew and multipoint single print calibration I've actually had faith in.
Great stuff - I've always been dissatisfied with the so-called calibration cubes, and instead printed much larger strips etc - but haven't been measuring internal dimensions (obvious as soon as you said it that's needed!), and just never thought to check skew, wasn't aware it was something that could be accounted for in the firmware! A new dawn of dimensionally accurate prints awaits!
Very nice indeed! I have printed some 5 or 6 cubes in a year on 11 printers as i never thought it has any real use at 2x2x2cm, but i did print a 50x50x50 once as it is more useful for accuracy.. This video changes that! 😃
Love the design, thanks for sharing! My go-to calibration object has always been the "5 mm calibration steps" (scaled 2x because 5 mm is too puny for a 0.4 mm nozzle): it has the same advantages of internal + external dimensions for measurement, but also has a little section for bridging, and the progressively smaller tiers also let you gauge the cooling (increasing "overextrusion" at higher Z is usually a symptom of insufficient cooling in my experience). But it doesn't have anything for skew, which is something I've never even thought about before, so I'll definitely be giving your flower a shot 🙂
Thanks for taking the time to do this mate. I just got a 3D printer and did a cube calibration and was wondering how to correct the settings and in youtube i found this video. THanks again.
You can tell a lot of effort went into this :) I just purchased it from your store. Keep up the good work
Looking good, will definitely get this for my next calibration :D
One thing I would find interesting would be skew/accuracy of the z axis, as I feel this is the weakest link in a lot of 'cheap' printers
What a great way to get better dimensional accuracy measurements. Love it!
It actually makes sense! Nice idea for calibration that isn't just the classic (terrible) tweaking x/y/z steps/mm until your calibration cube measures 20.00
Thanks for this. Just purchased the files and I'm starting a new set of calibration prints. Cheers!
Just bought this! I've been printing some multipart pieces that did sort of fit-but-not-really, and i was already on the edge of buying this. Seeing how the parts ended up fitting, i bit the bullet. Being 00:11AM here i may not print the flower just now, but i'm already testing the bridge part. Cheers!
Wonderful good sir ! This seems like very valuable time and effort I can’t wait to start checking all my printers with this test! Ty very much for all your hard work here sir. !
Really appreciate this calibration test. With a couple of prints I was able to go from ~0.43% XY error and ~0.23° skew to ~0.04% XY error and 0.06° skew. Trickiest thing is getting your calipers squared up with the part when taking measurements. Wonder if as another suggested having notches for this would help.
Hello! He actually updated the flower to make measuring with the calipers easier
I have an older CR-10S printer and use Cura as a slicing program. There is an add on for Cura called skew compensation. I found this add on to be really useful and it was quite an eye opener to discover that my precious printer was not all that accurate on the three basic planes as I expected it to be ! It was even out by a fraction of a degree on the XY plane. Fortunately, the fix for this plane required a relatively quick and flat print and a bit of basic algebra. For the other two planes I designed a kind of pulley with a sturdy axial piece and printed a few. I am fortunate to have a large old Meccano set and built myself a test rig to analyze the wobble on a number of these test pulleys. After about 5 or 6 tries I had the wobble reduced to virtually zero. This was a very interesting project on its own !
Absolutely brilliant! I hope you use that congratuling yourself step liberally! Thank you for sharing this.
Ran this on mine and my errors were 0.02, 0.02, 0.06 so not bad. This is a great tool to check for accuracy and the excel file is great addition. Well done!
Great contribution to our Community! Thank you!
This is great, I calibrated my Voron 2.4 printer with it and since I did it in ASA I can now use it as a impromptu coaster haha. Thank you very much
Thanks for this. The video from Stefan brought me here.
I wish you the best outcome in this difficult period (I went through it 3 years ago).
Started printing models with gears and several parts interacting with one another and noticed some dimensional inaccuracies. Thanks for the content! I'll be calibrating this way for now on!
I appreciate the thought and the effort you put into this. Your excel and pdf are what convinced me it is worth purchasing.
Awesome, thank you! I do try and go beyond just the model because making sure you use it correctly makes a huge difference to the success. Enjoy :)
Brilliant👍. I am in the middle of calibrating my printer and profiles do perfect timing. I have always found the calibration cubes less than ideal.
Interesting new approach 👍😀
I wil give it a go soon
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
No problem 👍
Great explanation of a great tool! Definitely looks superior to many of the other options for printer calibration.
Thank you. I am excited to calibrate.
Wow, that’s awesome. Better printing 2-3 of this flowers instead of 20 cubes. Voron cubes are nice to indicate lots of things, but xyz calibration normally sucks
Bought it! Thank you! Nice done!
Great work, well thought out, thank you!
Hello, Adam, you just won yourself a new subscriber ;-)
Thanks a lot!
great thanks for sharing 👍
Good work! I noticed you even made sure to chamfer the edges and the bottom for even extrusion and to avoid elephant’s foot.
I was curious about this and the potential effects of that, This just sealed it for me that I'll try this soon
Thank you. This is great. I will try this out soon. 👍👍👍👍
Nice of you to share, thanks!
My pleasure!
Many thanks. I will be using that tomorrow after tweaking some mechanical settings today.
Or maybe not. Page not found when I try to get the files.
Ah, I found it by going to the shop and looking for it. Might be nice to mention this is £5 on this video's description. I will order one later today, seems well worth it.
Will test this right now !!!!
I loved this, great job man.
Hi, already purchased this, but want to purchase XYZ also, is there any video regarding that ?
Awesome, thanks for helping our the 3DP community!
Was able to go from 0.2 tolerance to 0.1 tolerance on a tolerance coin test, thanks!
You're correct, this is a superior measurement system for calibration. My only concern with this method (as its not described in the video) is how you're determining/separating form from position. All measurements are measurements of form/size. Whereas, I believe, skew would be a measurement of POSITION. This means that all measurements relating to skew (or features out of place) should originate from the same feature, ie a Datum. You could do this by applying a cylindrical feature in the center of the part and cylindrical features at the diagonals and measure center-line to center-line for these lengths. This would probably yield less than 3% improvement, but for accuracy sake... now you know.
You mean like how a ball-bar test checks movement?
Not gunna lie, I'd love to be able to do that ki d of test on my printer
Very cool, would love to try it. Is there a compensation needed for different nozzle sizes? I am using 0.6mm.
Liked and subed. This was quality work, thank you, I'll get printing immediately
Using the filament shrinkage setting in superslicer with a very small value, eg 99.965% results in lots of overextrusion and print looking crappy. Ultimately after hours of work to arrive at the desired adjustment value, the recommended strategy does not work. Tried with the current stable release and nightly build, same results. If perhaps I could access the source files in the protected spreadsheet, I could calculate an XY compensation factor, which requires an absolute value rather than a percentage. Recommendation: if you are going to protect the sheet, provide the values we need to plug into the slicer too for both SS shrinkage and XY compensation factor.
Lovely stuff you bring to the community! This will be a great tool for freshly built diy printers to make sure they are true and correct.
Absolutely!
A possible enhancement to the flower would be notches the width of the calipers jaw along the measuring edges. This would help to measure squarely as the jaws would sit in the notches I think ?
Thankyou. Finally can print something accurate. Being stgruggling with this for years. Now I can print usefull things. 0.11% X, 0%Y and 0.01 skew.
Thank you for this! I'm converting my old ender 3 v2 to a belt driven z system (just because and it looks fun) and this will be a fantastic calibration test to test and tune it.
Hi there! Please, tell me why are you going to replace the Z thread to a belt? I ask because the threaded rod is actually the only always accurate axis in the Ender (since each turn will move exactly 8mm, it is the specification of the thread). 🤔
@@GeekDetour For no other reason than it would be a nice and fun thing thing to do actually. I was going to do a dual Z rod with stepper motor upgrade - even get some acme rods that I know are true - but I had some Gates belt laying around and the mod would essentially give me the same effect as a dual Z rod; perfect X gantry control.
So this has nothing to do with better quality or the like. Purely a fun mod to apply to the printer. Like adding linear rails. Won't increase quality, just reduce maintenance and guarantee printing parity from print to print. :)
First of all thank you designing this tool. I printed one ,measured, then did the adjustments on the printer saved the settings.
Round two same thing. It was worse than the first one . Back to square one with the measurements.
Round eight still no better than the original settings .
Decided to go back to what I had in the beginning.
You only need to do once.
Wow! it's Amazing I did it well ! Perfect work !
I have often thought the letter on the cube will mess the measurements I tend to use a temp tower and a flow topless cube for my measurements but will try yours for sure
Hello, think you vor this nice Tool.
I have a question on this Thema:
I have a Prusa Mini can I put the Correction parameter in the Start-G-Code.
Or what should I do?
great info! Thanks for sharing!
I bought the STL and read the instructions. Basically, what you're getting at is that we should get accurate prints by changing the E-steps and rotation distance (also account for Skew)? I have always used horizontal expansion to get accurate prints but the approach here is different. Am I correct in these assumptions? Should I never depend on horizontal expansion again? Will changing rotation distance really carry over dimensional accuracy to other models and prints?
Well .. I don't think I can get better than this. On a Tenlog TL-D3 Pro, ran the calib flower and got a skew of 0.0012 ... on first run 😁😁😁
Great video. You have given this obessive tinkerer a new goal!
Is the possible with duet, Reprap?
yeah, if I remember correctly, the Skew compensation is M556 for reprap, so if you have your skew angle, you can input:
M556 S100 X[100*sin(skew_angle)] Y0 Z0
Obviously, complete the calculation with the sin() seperate and just input the result into the gcode command. Y and Z are zero because those represent YZ and XZ skew respectively.
Hi, this is an awesome piece of work and hugely appreciated. Question - will this also be valid to use on a Delta printer?
Yes, absolutely.
@@Vector3DP purchased, well worth the very small investment and a huge value. Thanks for the work!
Will definitely try it out and see how it goes.
Single print multi calibration no hassles printing 20 diff stls.
I'm assuming this works for Deltas , Corexy's and Cartesians since the logic behind it is the same
Thanks for it, I bought it. Question... I can adjust the XYZ Axis steps on my display. (Marlin Community Firmware) What should I input if the Settings are not in prozent? Example: X=80, Y=100 and Z=400.
I spent ages making adjustments to get a calibration cube 20.00mm on all measurements on an Ender 3, I am curious to know how this machine will fare with the flower calibration
I have just used this very successfully to calibrate my Ender 3 V2 Pro. I have two suggestions for improving the excel spread-sheet.
I'm using the Orca slicer and entered the shrinkage compensation value. However, on a 2nd calibration run the compensation value suggested by your spread-sheet doesn't take into account the currently set shrinkage value. It is an easy calculation to do, but would help if you could enter the current shrinkage value so that it does the calculation for you.
An unlocked area would be useful for entering comments on changes made.
Have you considered caliper tolerances in these measurements. Maybe there is nothing to change if it's readings are in tolerances of your calipers. By the way this will differ between Prusa Slicer and Cura because Cura calculate rectangle area for line protection, therefore 0.4 mm thick line which is 0.2 mm high, will be arround 0.44mm wide if you print with 100% flow for outer walls (extrusion multiplier)
I found that the best way to adjust step/mm is actually to measure the physical x y z movement of the printhead , 3d printed objects tend to shrink when cooled.
I bought a dial indicator exactly for that reason. That being said, I have never attempted so many measurements on a calibration print, and never for skew, so I’ll be giving this new method a try.
Yes, this measures the actual filament after shrinkage. its designed to adapt a tuned printer to produce parts that are dimensionally accurate after printing and cooling.
wonderfull!!! Well done, I wanna print this today with diferent nozzles as well ;)
Thanks for the great work, I really appreciate it! However, after printing and measuring, I'm a bit lost what to do with the results. I understand how to process the skew value, but where do the X and Y values go? In the video you mention the x/Y Shrinkage setting in SuperSlicer, but that's one value, but I have two different values for X and Y - so which one to apply where and how? Maybe I'm missing something really obvious, but atm, I think this part could use a little more detail. A quick pointer where to put which value would be greatly appreciated.
V6 spreadsheet with more guidance and details on implementation coming soon.
@@Vector3DP Fantastic news! Thanks so much.
Hello and thanks a lot for this video. I bought your Calibration flow, print the calibration flower on my Prusa Mini, log the measurements in the calibration calculator. OK, and now ? i'm lost.... As i can't update the Marlin's firmware of the Prusa, how can i make adjustments ? I found a X correction of 0.25% and Y correction of 0.40%. The skew correction is 0.29°. I don't know how using these measurements in the prusaSlicer.... Sorry for my English, i'm French 😉
Congratulations! I like this calibration tool and I seems good price 6 euros for your effort and intelligence
Does the skew correction value changes when tighten belts right?
Used this system to calculate error but for a Prusa Mini, where would I add the calibration error? For XY shrinkage should I add it to printer firmware or in the Prusa Slicer settings? Make it filament specific? What about skew correction?
Awesome, I’ll be doing this for my Ender 3 right now
This is GENIOUS!
Thanks
Great tool! thanks!
The description says: "If you have CoreXY...use the average of the errors". But where do I put the error? the spreadsheet does not account for CoreXY then.
also: The inner an douter errors have hitns when inner is neg and outer is positive and vice versa. But mine are both negative. what does that mean?
Is the size of the print still the best choice if you have a 500X500mm print bed, or would a larger version make sense?
This is a great calibration tool. I may need a little input though because results got worse. I expected the print to get bigger but it got smaller. I'm using Klipper and Cura.
I used the SuperSlicer setting in a Cura plugin for "Scaling Factor Shrinkage Compensation". I'm thinking this value for Cura should be 100.19 and not 99.81 like in the Excel file.
X = -0.19%
Y = -0.20%
Skew = -0.03%
Inner = -0.01%
Outer = -0.37%
Join us in the Vector3D discord and we can help you better there.
I'd be curious to see how this calibration flower stacks up against teaching techs website and presliced models to dial in a printer.
I think I'll use this on my son's printer as mine is pretty heavily molded, and he's got a stock ender 3.
Cool idea as always! Is there a way To calibrate skew on XZ and YZ too?
Well, not with this design, no. The thing with those direction and this method is that it requires printing 45degree overhangs which will have inaccuracy of their own. I'll try to think of something though
Any ideas on how to apply the results from a califlower print to a Bambu X-1. While my correction factors are small, I have a large part thats very reliant on dimensional accuracy. I see in "Printer Settings" that I can add/modify the start and end g-code and its Marlin (legacy) flavor but I don't understand where to add the worksheet code.
Very Clever, Thanks...👍
Hi hi! Nice video. How i fix the skew on a Bambu Lab P1S?
Super nice project and way to calibrate with real solutions as well. What about calibration with the printer frame and a caliper instead of relying on a 3d print that as so many other variables like extrusion rate etc (even if your solution takes it into account)?
Well if you think about it, it doesn't matter what anything else is doing as long as the print comes out square and the right size, so best to measure the printed parts.
Currently printing this on all my 5 FDM printers ,i do have a question, my tenlog and ender 5 plus i don't have access to the firmware so i won't be able to change the skew correct???
And does the nozzle size matters for this calibration?
That's a really clever approach for proper calibration (unlike those damn cubes that are pretty ... useless, IMHO). I'll try this asap before re-starting some projects.
I agree on a per-material calibration, yet should the material brand be considered too (per-material and per-brand) or can we simply ditch that detail ?
I've not tested enough different brands to know. I'm sure a low warp abs will shrink less than a normal abs, hence less warping, but I'm hoping most differences from one brand to the next will be negligible even though they probably exist.
@@Vector3DP That's precisely what I was referring to. One of my go-to ABS is TitanX (and its ASA sibling, ApolloX) by FormFutura and ... these don't warp (even on unenclosed machines). Gonna have to check these against regular ABS that's sitting around.
Is there a way to input the correction code into duet printers?
Nice. Just wondering if you have made any allowance for elephants foot? This tends to screw up dimensional measurements for anything on the the print bed unless you are that rare person who has perfectly levelled your bed and set the correct z offset, etc. I know that I tend to err in being a little too close to the bed to get good first layer adhesion.
Yes, a chamfer around the bottom edge of the print deals with that.
@@Vector3DP cool, thanks
Yes, was also wondering about the Horizontal Expansion that I ordinary use to make mechanical prints?
I do not suppose this value will affect your test results though, as you are averaging inside and outside measurements.
question: how do you correct skew in RRF?
Very nice!
I wonder how hard it would be to create a hexagon-based version for delta printers…
I'm guessing that you measure inner dimensions to cancel out actual line width. Though using your model you can not only measure shrinkage rate but also horizontal expansion (Cura setting, there is also one in super slocer). Shrinkage = (measurement of 100mm - measurement of 50mm ) / (100-50); horizontal expansion = (100 * shrinkage - measurement of 100mm) / 2.
Hi there. I've just purchased the cauliflower and done a few runs. I've added the skew correction to my Marlin firmware. When I'm implementing the X and Y size adjustments in super slicer should I add the X and Y compensation values as well as shrinkage or just one or the other. Thanks.
Have you ever found out? I've got the exact same question ...
@@tubeyoului one or the other from what I remember.
Thank you!
5:40 can you also use these for PLA and other filaments?
Really good stuff, I Will try It and report result the here
Very Nice!
Question... how do i "calibrate" exactly?
Very nice.
One issue with most calibration objects is they can be impacted by elephant’s foot (which is an issue to be resolved separately from E steps).
Does this have chamfers to prevent elephant’s foot from impacting the measurements?
Of course it does :)
@@Vector3DP you’re too good!
Bought the test and ran it on E3D toolchanger.
Skew 0.32° off! -> Unscrewed the Y axis and put it back on the square, re-tensioned the belt -> 0.01°. Quite disappointed that E3D give a machine in such a bad calibration.
It would be interesting to have some data on flow regulation, do you have any ideas?
Great idea! If I understand correctly, it just calibrates x and y but not z. Is this not necessary or not possible?
It can be calibrated for and prints exist, but I imagine there are more factors to wrangle in for xz and yz skew calibration: like nozzle offset, bed leveling, eccentric nut adjustments. You would want to be measuring and compensating purely for z-axis alignment. Maybe a print on a raft could get rid of first layer artifacts, but then you have to measure off of a rough bottom.
sounds intresting, but would it be useable for an belt printer ? like CR30
Probably not.
You could still determine accuracy, but the calculated adjustments wouldn't be correct
Looks more like a waffle than a flower 😛
SHhhhhh, nobody noticed. 😉
I'll definitely be doing this. I'd love to know how skew my printers are
Some people who thought theirs were square have turned out very skew. it's quite surprising.
Wow! I measured my bed down to 0.002degrees or 0.000034rad and my shrinkage factor turned out to be 99.336%, so compared to your 99.35% I'd say this is a great number to look for when tuning with ABS.
I have Prusa i3 mk3 where do I add step/mm info and rotation dist. Thanks.