SV06 Plus Bearings - How to Lubricate and Change noisy x and y axis - Full disassembly guide.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- If you have scratchy or rattling bearings it can make your SV06 / Plus a bit loud, it doesn't seem to make a difference to the prints, but it makes a difference to your ears.
Fixing it is pretty simple, in the grand scheme of things. Follow along.
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😁Thank you for the video, we will pay attention on the bearings in the future. And the bearings are lightly lubricated, the reason for not over-lubricating them is that the lubricant may leak out during transport. We will include a box of grease in case you need it.
I'm glad you guys are on top of fixing issues. Hopefully I won't have to lubricate the bearings on my SV06 Plus which ships mid April.
Same here 😅
Adding a bit of lubricant in package is awesome idea. People often don't know that they should lubricate bearings or they hate the fact that they need to buy big tube of lubricant just for first lubrication of bearings.
@@kylezakk They are not on top of fixing it. Its was a major flaw with the SV06 and they know all about it. Its just more lip service for using garbage bearings.
Thank you, Sovol! Can't wait to get my Plus. Love my three SV06's. Continuous improvement please. Check out the way Prusa does this; they send lubricate and they have a cool nozzle that fits the tube and then is inserted into the bearing. It's printed so that model must be out there somewhere.
Thanks for the disassembly guide. After I greased every bearing they're still loud and 'crunchy' not not as bad, I'll replace them eventually. The SV06 Plus uses 10mm LM10UU bearings.
first thing I did when I got my sovol sv06 was to replace all the bearings with IGUS bearings. Works like a charm, silent af and doesn't leave dents in the 8mm rods. Highly recommend to do this if you get one
Hi, do you put grease in the igus bearings or not at all?
@@ecotteret720 you can if you want to. I’ve put some oil for fine machinery
@@leftthenright88 Ok thanks😉
Which ones did you purchase?
Haha, yeah, crunchy crunchy. When I replaced mine on my SV06 I discovered that tolerances of both the rods and bearings vary quite a bit. If someone took all the bearings and rods off, and matched the looser bearings with the bigger rods, they might not need to replace anything.
I didn't know about the 2nd channel. Subbed.
Thanks, good information to know. I already have a SV06 and my SV06 Plus will be here mid April.
Nice, did that on the standard SV06 recently. I replaced all of the bearings on X and Y, all were sounding horrible. Since we're already taking it apart, I would also properly clean the new bearings. Ideally in an ultrasonic cleaner, so you get all the dirt out. Also you will not get a mix of the transport oil with your new lubricant.
yes if you take time to soak them in iso or something, you can get a better result.
Thanks for the video. Lubricared mine sv06 (without plus), works like a charm now, much quieter.
Btw, there is a change you are using some off-brand grease, but i guess it's sorta all the same. But yeah silicone + ptfe is a way to go.
I thought "that other channel is clearly a pun" after seeing this one mentioned on "main" channel video, but now I've found this, yeah, makes sense 👍
You could also print and use Prusa lubricant applicator (remix to fit the tube). Orientation of bearings (are the ball rows like X or like +) may have some affect on how long the bearings (and the rod) will last (I won't make any assumptions _how_ they should be aligned)...
Linear bearings are fairly inexpensive, so it's easy to buy more than needed and select the best ones. And they will always be better than PLA printed "IGUS" style ones (personal findings, YMMV). Those just won't start to move as smoothly, or will have too much play in them. Reaming those with 8 mm drill may sound like fun at first 🥲
New channel, new channel! Does this mean double the work? Great information. This is similar in process to replacing lots of bearings. Always good to change them out before they leave their mark on the rods. I bet you said that later in the video but I'm writing this before making it to the end.
haha I didn't say it actually! Also yes probably double the work. Yay! work! :D
My machine came with grease like that, think it's just silicone grease. I have tried using it and after a few weeks i cleaned and replaced it with real "Teflon" or PTFE grease that i applied to it after, and it was a notable change. I since your just topically applying it, you would have the same results by THINNLY brushing the grease on with a small brush so it can run under the seals then running the bearings over and rebrushing until you see no more dirty grease collecting on the sides where you push the bearing too. Been 3D printing for 10 years, that is by far the easiest way. Same with the lead screws, brush the grease on to get into the grooves and run the printer up and down.. collecting any excess while doing so.
Pro tip; to get ride of some slop you can align the bearing races on axes. The little bearing balls inside should be straight up and down/side to side. Theoretically this can also prematurely wear the bearings because most the weight will be on one race inside the bearing
Good morning,
I suggest you change the linear bearings by linear polymer bearing rings; no more worries about noise, no greasing, super sliding, no maintenance and the quality is preserved!
I should try these one day, yes.
Do you have a link to good ones?
great informative video! i was screaming "grub screws" at my monitor when you had trouble remembering like I was watching one of those kids shows with the interactive long pauses LOL
haha maybe I need to do more interactive segments 😂
I believe he was referring to the coupler holding the stepper motor drive shaft to the lead screw.
Thank you for this video. I was able to lubricate my bearings on my new SV06 Plus because of your advice. Subscribed and best regards!
Good video but there is a much simpler way to grease the bearings. I've been using (and building) 3D printers for about 15 years. All I do is heavily lubricate the rods and run the X,Y,Z axis back and forth several times. Then wipe off excess grease leaving just a slight film behind. It will work its way into the bearings and there will be no need to disassemble anything. If you do this regularly (depending on how much you use the printer), you'll never have an issue.
Now some might say there are rubber seals on the bearings that will prevent any grease from getting in. They are not that tight and the rubber wears rather quickly to the point where grease gets by them easily. Again, I've never had a problem. I'm not sure what grease is in the tube that comes with the printer, but I mostly use lithium grease. It has worked well for me.
Just my two cents worth.
eh, it kinda works, but also kinda doesn't tbh. This vid was about changing them over, though.
Good video. My biggest worry was the ball bearings falling out. After further research, they shouldn't fall out unless its a bad bearing. I've heard its important to try to line up the balls horizontally, as to spread the weight across 2 sets, versus 1 set taking all the weight. Thanks for the video.
New channel… awesome. If I may suggest a topic for investigation,
Does the top bearings on the lead screw induce Z artefacts? I saw on a video somewhere saying that having the top of the lead screw flopping in the breeze gives better print quality. Could be interesting or not at all.
Keep up the good work mate 👍🇦🇺😊
Haha unlikely tbh, unless the z screw is already bent
@@foundintech Perhaps if there was too much compression or torsion on the screw from overly enthusiastic tightening??
Stepper motor couplers
EDIT- the below bearing are not suitable, they require a compression fitting. I apologise for posting without understanding their requirements.
Igus type AM-RJ4JP-01-08 Drylin Bearings, Polymer. self lubricating, low friction, low noise, high wear resistance.
It's much easier to just run the Z axis to max Z under power and then hand wind the X assembly off the top (after removing caps). You even have two hands to speed the winding up by a factor of two by doing both sides simutaneously (which keeps it square and unbent too). Removing the threaded rod is totally pointless.
1:40
Just so everyone knows there's two crush washers that can fall out with these screws that this dude failed to mention. Thankfully I found it.
Also, at 2:00 you don't need to remove both the top and bottom screws from each side, JUST the top ones. He wasn't clear there and it caused confusion. If you end up making the same mistake, raise the cylinder with the two screw holes in it so that's it's about a millimeter under being flush with the black metal on top of the motor, then screw in the bottom screw. Follow what he says afterwards about lifting the threaded rod when screwing in the top screw and you should be good to go.
hello, great video ! im having a issue with my printer the y xxsis is making that brrt brrt noise and cant go up or down. do you have any clue to what that might be ?
You don't need to pull out X gantry like a savage. You have 2 little holes that are as leverage to push out rods out of hole
Coupler, that's the word?
Surely grease is the word...
I know these consumer 3D printers are built to a strict budget but there isn't too much difference between the worst possible linear rod bearings and halfway decent bearings, and there is no good excuse for not spending another minute per machine to properly lubricate the bearings prior to assembly.
2:30 - Unscrewing the threaded rod is a disaster on higher end motion systems that use non-captive ball nuts. Little ball bearings fall out and fly everywhere.
My SV06 is even worse than just having low quality bearings: the lower x rod is oversized and on the verge of siezing. Swapping the bearings around shows that the rod is at fault, as they all run fine on the upper rod.
@@MiG82au - It's possible to fix an oversized rod with undersized bearings, although usually oversized bearings are substituted to fix a worn (undersized) rod, assuming the wear is on the entire length of the rod. It sounds as if the individual bearings may not be replaceable on the SV06? The better fix would be to replace the oversized rod with a ground rod of the proper dimensions. The ground rod is inexpensive and shouldn't be too difficult to replace.
Obviously, that shouldn't be needed if the SV06 was built properly. The motion control components should be inspected prior to assembly to ensure proper tolerance. That's not difficult to do. Barring that, Sovol should0 simply move the axes by hand after assembling to ensure free but not sloppy motion and rework as needed. Sovol should pay the return shipping, rework the defective SV06, and pay to ship the SV06 to the customer. On a new printer at any price point, the responsibility is on the manufacturer to ensure the printer works properly. If Sovol can ship a printer with an oversize rod and get away with it, there is no incentive to do better.
Sorry about your luck. :-(
they're Couplings
Ground your printer. That's where the 50 Hz noise is coming from. That or put the mic somwhere else other than on the printer.
I've got one of these on pre-order, and I'll be pretty pissed if I have to do this to it right out of the box.
I got mine today, no tube of grease, had to go out and buy some just for this.
My biggest single complaint about my SV06 Plus is it'd be a crappy new user experience, and shouldn't have to be.
The presliced model on the included card sets the temp too low for the included PLA. Meaning the "Oooh, a lighthouse, let's print that" comes out pretty badly. I first thought it must be some mechanical error, because surely a company wouldn't mismatch its first time print supplies...
There's a bad bearing in the Y carriage, I know this because for the first few prints it made a hateful juddering shuddering groaning sound at higher speed. There's at least one clicky bearing on the X.
I'm also wondering why we still have to play with dragging bits of paper around under the nozzle, surely even on an "affordable" printer there's a low cost solution for nozzle offset.
Would it really have priced the machine out of its intended market if just a little more attention to detail, and ever so slightly less crappy parts, had gone into it? Sure, I'm very happy with mine, but that's because I got it stupid cheap expecting it to be seriously broken (customer return, was actually brand new never assembled!). If I was new to printing and paid full retail, I'd be somewhat disenchanted.
Like I was when I was one of the gullible many who bought an original CR10...
@@exasperated I ended up giving mine away to a friend. They are aware of its flaws, and since they got it free, they are happy to throw money at it to get it working better.
Are the under-bed bearings also 10mm ?
Yep
What size are the bearings 10mm or 8mm???
The SV-06 Plus uses 10mm rods so you’ll need LM10UU bearings.
Is there a reason for your logo is upside down?
haha, I need a better one, but it's all I had, and I like to know which account I'm signed in as
@@foundintech Time to assemble a new sign, in green this time? Or you can program the existing one and _grade_ it...
It's obviously lost.
Is the sound less _unbearable_ now then?
_bearing_ in mind it was heavily equalised
What sie is are the bearings 10mm or 8mm ???
10 for plus, 8 for og
Wow, already need replacing??
sometimes you get a noisy one, this is the case with all cheap bearings. Otherwise they just need greasing.
Good BB bearings are so freaking expensive
That sound...
....is glorious
The bearings you/anybody buys are very poor quality i call them Cage Rattlers there mass produced all over China and use by every 3d printer you buy,, you can buy them for .50c to about $2 some try charging you $5 but there just the same poor quality just in stainless steel,, High quality bearings are about $20 each and that's entry level and most company's won't deal with the average person due to the technical parameters you have to give them-.
yup, pretty much comes down to buying a bag of them and picking out the best.