You might want to mention that the eye relief will be different (probably) for prone shooting than it will be from the bench. Been doing my own rifles for 25 years and I wish there had been a site like this when I started.
I know this an 8 year old video but Tally says that no lapping is required with their 1 piece rings, and I'm curious as to why you didn't use a 20 moa rail for long range rifle ( just in case you needed it ) but hey I learned some stuff to.
For some of the items used you can go to MidwayUSA for the epoxy and Opticsplanet for the scope rings. Also they say the DNZ 1 piece scope mount system doesn't need to be lapt in, but you can check the scope with a thin feeler gage. I use the DNZ 1 piece and didn't have to lap them.
At the 5:10 mark when you were LEVELING the scope with the action you used the top of the turret cap as the scope level point of reference. I have found that some caps are not truly level due to the SPRING pressures inside the turrets themselves. Now it may not be much, and in most cases probably negligible, but I will use the flat spot on the BOTTOM of the scope if it exist, and find this to be more accurate.
The lapping tool serves a more subtle primary function of testing the "line bore datum" of the scope rings to determine the planarity of the seat and the concentricity of the rings. Proper alignment is determined by analyzing the witness marks that are lightly scratched in the annealing from the lapping compound. If the rings are out of alignment at that point, they're not concentric which means there are bigger problems to address and the excessive lapping of the lower ring seat will only exacerbate any alignment issues by creating an oblong ring seat.
Nice job Mike. Perfect timing as I'm up to much of this with my M1A after bedding it with Acraglass. Also from this gave me a perfect idea how to level the mounts. Thanks.
@@therowdyrue7768 I get that the lapping aligns the two rings. But how accurate is the scope center tube? Would bedding the scope, just like the action to the stock, be something to think about?
@ComocosonoEWL I agree about useing a 1 piece base for precision. But, harmonics run through the Barrel not the reciever/action and no one mounts the scope to barrel. Barrel harmonics dont effect the scope.
Screws are not tight enough...also, once you have them tightened down, give the screwdriver a rap with a hammer on the top with the tip still in the screw, it will help seat the screw and you should get another 1/4 turn on it without doing any damage. This is the former writer and gun guru Jack O'Connor method of installing scope mounts.
For long range application you want to get the most elevation out of your scope u can. You are using an NXS scope which has 100moa. In order to get the full moa from that scope u need a 45moa rail. With those no cant rings you are wasting the scopes potential.
You can also level off of the top of the bottom half of the scope mounting rings - level a rifle and in the vise then install the scope and level the scope
just curious, why didn't you check the alignment of the scope rings first with the wheeler alignment pins before lapping? also why didn't you lap the top half of the rings as well?Thanks,Jim
Well presented. Easy to understand. I've done all this kind of research and learning the hard way from multiple sources. Nice to see a good quick guide on the quick and dirty!
When you bedded the recoil lug and removed the barrel action from the stock, it appears that the bedding over ran the lug area and you have some where the action rest's. Enough it looks like to raise the action a bit above the bedding block. Seem's to me the action is not going to make consistent contact on the bedding block
todays modern cnc manufacturing does a good job keeping close tolerances. however, scope rings, tops and bottoms need to be lapped in to correct any"mis-alignments. there is much thas not covered in this video but pretty good start for an average shooter to get better results.
you should have read the instructions on the wheeler torque wrench. You want it to click 3 times then you are at the proper torque setting, so essentially you have under torqued everything you have ever used that on lol
Great video, guys. 👍🏽 Here in the Pacific Northwest we have rust issues that I never even worried about when I lived in the high desert, and the closer you live to the coast, the worse that pesky rust is, obviously. After lapping rings and removing the anodizing, do you recommend applying anything for rust prevention, or are the tolerances so fine that rust is not an issue after the caps are torqued to spec?
Article II Industries if the rings are anodized then they aren't gonna rust even if you remove all the anodizing and leave bare metal because you anodize aluminum along with some other non ferrous metals like titanium but not steel. Steel, because it contains iron, is a ferrous metal and can't be anodized. So if the rings are truly anodized, and not nitrocarborized, phosphate coated, electroplated, powder coated, galvanized, etc, then you have nothing to worry about because the base metal is already rust or corrosion resistant by itself because it's a non ferrous metal and contains no iron. Iron has to be present in order to produce "rust". Rust is the common term for what's better defined as oxidation and the most commonly thought of oxidation, that red harsh feeling rust you see on old steel, is actually the chemical reaction between the iron in the steel and the oxygen in the air, water and or humidity. Being that non ferrous metals contain no iron they by themselves are excellent at withstanding corrosion and or oxidation. Short answer is if the rings are anodized then no you need nothing. If they are actually steel u still probably don't need any extra protection.
Curious why you didn’t use the alignment tools prior to lapping or attached the upper half of the rings? I do like how you leveled the action then the scope to it.
I’ve been leveling scopes long enough to have learned from the mistake to NEVER level a scope from the turrets. Use a plumb bob hanging and then level the reticle. Far more effective.
I agree. The reticle is the important part and that's what I go with. If you don't trust the machinework on the scope bases, hence lapping, why take a chance with the turrets?
very threu, i always level scopes from the bottom flat, according to the action, pic- rail bottom scope using the back end of a Mitotoyo measure difice.
i do agree, although that nightforce scope is one of the better precision units available, and those turrets "should" be perfectly level with the reticle. i still use plumb level, no matter what sights. then range test for elevation/windage true adjustments on a solid bench.
🤔 lapping only the lower half of the rings to get as much ring/scope contact. Yet does not bother to lap top half of rings. So out of 4 pieces, you're close to 50% scope to mount contact area? More than likely all brands are cnc'd this day & time. Tolerances on cnc machines are very low. Somewhere around +/- .0002" Scope bases do not need to be lapped. If they do; perform the lapping on tops & bases together. Not just the lower half, this way you true both front and rear ring entirely to each other. Which will give you a closer to a 100% contact.
Why the action of the rifle is not tuned or put through a lath to make sure ever single area which is squared up and perfectly squared and true, that's what needs to be done as well?
see my comments on part 1. His theory is wrong with the lapping..he only lapped the lower rings halfs which means the uppers could cause misalignment stress....lap both together.Would you line bore just one side of your car's main bearings?..This is the difference between an engineering tradesman, or a thoroughly expert armorer, and someone who just came through somewhere 'fixing' weapons. The underlying theory is ok but the practice exemplified isn't best practice.
I bedded my recoil lug in and can’t get it to come out any tricks you can share to get the barrel out so I don’t have to ruin my wood stock iused one shot and Vaseline as a release agent
They are great if you don't use tactical scopes that you are adjusting the turrets on. Other wise u need a 45 moa rail. Otherwise you are wasting half of your scopes elevation potential.
Puts a nightforce scope on a rifle with cheap 2 piece rings. If you want real long range performance, get a 20 moa ot more rail on that rifle then mount the scope with some quality rings.
Totally agree also, why not wipe the metal surface area clean before basically permanently installing? Go though all the trouble to lap and etc. to have dirt and whatever crud stuck in btwn, maybe I'm OCD?
Before lapping the rings, make sure the rings are on the same plane. Most of the time it's not the rings but the receiver that's out of spec. So don't go and ruin a nice pair of rings if you don't have to.
+jtv3062 You are correct. The kit he is demonstrating contains the alignment bars to do this. He just skipped this step along with many other important steps. This video is bad advice. Look for other videos that explain proper technique.
Hi Mike ! I would like to know what brand vise do you use and what is the website for that wheeler engineering ? I would very much appreciate. Thanks !
Hanging a plumline an setin your vertical hair to that works best once gun is level I've noticed the use of a level on turret is not good try an turn turret 180 degrees an u will get different result buy placeing the level on turret
Thank you for the info! Just one question regarding leveling the scope. What or where are you adjusting the level of the scope? You’ve already secured the mounts and rings so how are you adjusting the actual level if any correction is needed?
But I guess as long as it sets flat in the bed the top is just clamping so I suppose it will work fine. If it moved in there you'd need to lap bot sides for sure.
2:40 -- There's no need to do this unless you have trash rings with burrs on them. Also who in the right mind laps only half the rings? Double torque each screw as well to ensure an even pound spec and you never need loctite. I know this video is old hat but if your viewing this for the first time this is what NOT TO DO. ...people actually pay you guys for shoddy work?
Not really. You'd be surprised at how much a top ring can deflect, same with scope tube. With cap scews, the top cap can self align. The important touch point is the base ring and alignment of action. Things can really go south there. As per screw threads, it is not recommended to tighten the scope cap screws to the std screw torque, significant damage to your tube could occur. All the ring mfg spec a torque much too low to get enough axial pre-load to make the screw self locking. Hence the locktite. Trust me tens of thousands of light hunting rifles, we've seen every way it can fail.
When setting up eye relief on a variable-power scope, what range is it advisable to use when setting the eye relief distance? (i.e. low power, mid power or high power?
I've found the eye relief distance to be more critical at higher power settings, and would recommend setting it up that way. It has worked for me for a long time.
WRONG! way to level a scope, even night force says not to go by the plane of the turrets or the underside of the base because the internal alignment of the crosshairs could be off, which you really begin to notice around 500 to 600 yards if its off. I use an aluminum device with a v notch and starret master level to level the action and then use a bright string tied to a plum bob at 25 yards to align the cross hairs. This way both the action and the crosshairs (not the scope body) are level with gravity (not the ground). You would think a company that charges thousands for their (very overpriced rifles) would know better.
@Jason West... I need to know too as I have Savage 110 Tactical in .308 which the bolt raceway is the same as 7mm-08, 6.5cm, and .243, where can we find this bar stock?
Dont take you gun to gunwerks ..... Locktite goes on the screws, check your ring alignment prior to lapping, lap the tops as well as the bottoms if lapping is needed, there are specific torque settings and patterns depending on the rings.
I was about to ask the same question. I lap both the top and bottom. It takes a little more time and you have to slightly tighten the top rings down a couple of times, but it makes for better contact.I also blue loc tite the screws on the top scope rings. Recoil will back them off sometimes. Most of the time it's not an issue but once you had one get loose you start to loc tite all of them.
That's not a very precise way to put on the scope for long-range precision. That might be okay for hunting at 300 yards or your average shooter shooting at paper.
I really love ❤ these kind of precision job.
You might want to mention that the eye relief will be different (probably) for prone shooting than it will be from the bench. Been doing my own rifles for 25 years and I wish there had been a site like this when I started.
Love how you keep your shirt crisp and clean. Says allot about a person. Good video.
I know this an 8 year old video but Tally says that no lapping is required with their 1 piece rings, and I'm curious as to why you didn't use a 20 moa rail for long range rifle ( just in case you needed it ) but hey I learned some stuff to.
There's not threaded holes on the top of my Stevens Model 87T. So I made my own block out of wood. and attached it with hose clamps.
I love mounting scopes, very good video for those just getting started.
Love these videos. Very informative.
For some of the items used you can go to MidwayUSA for the epoxy and Opticsplanet for the scope rings. Also they say the DNZ 1 piece scope mount system doesn't need to be lapt in, but you can check the scope with a thin feeler gage. I use the DNZ 1 piece and didn't have to lap them.
+Jason Lloyd i find that dnz game reaper one piece are very concentric and true, and for the money cannot be beat.
At the 5:10 mark when you were LEVELING the scope with the action you used the top of the turret cap as the scope level point of reference.
I have found that some caps are not truly level due to the SPRING pressures inside the turrets themselves.
Now it may not be much, and in most cases probably negligible, but I will use the flat spot on the BOTTOM of the scope if it exist, and find this to be more accurate.
The lapping tool serves a more subtle primary function of testing the "line bore datum" of the scope
rings to determine the planarity of the seat and the concentricity of the rings. Proper alignment is determined by analyzing the witness marks that are lightly scratched in the annealing from the lapping compound. If the rings are out of alignment at that point, they're not concentric which means there are bigger problems to address and the excessive lapping of the lower ring seat will only exacerbate any alignment issues by
creating an oblong ring seat.
Nice job Mike. Perfect timing as I'm up to much of this with my M1A after bedding it with Acraglass. Also from this gave me a perfect idea how to level the mounts. Thanks.
I'm loving that vice, where can I pick one of those up?
Use a quality one piece scope base. Bed it to the receiver. Then use high quality CNC machined rings. If you do this, no lapping is required.
+ComocosonoEWL Makes sense. You got any recommendations for a good one piece set up?
Night force or badger ordnance.
you still need to lap the rings
@@therowdyrue7768 I get that the lapping aligns the two rings. But how accurate is the scope center tube? Would bedding the scope, just like the action to the stock, be something to think about?
@ComocosonoEWL I agree about useing a 1 piece base for precision.
But, harmonics run through the Barrel not the reciever/action and no one mounts the scope to barrel.
Barrel harmonics dont effect the scope.
Screws are not tight enough...also, once you have them tightened down, give the screwdriver a rap with a hammer on the top with the tip still in the screw, it will help seat the screw and you should get another 1/4 turn on it without doing any damage. This is the former writer and gun guru Jack O'Connor method of installing scope mounts.
For long range application you want to get the most elevation out of your scope u can. You are using an NXS scope which has 100moa. In order to get the full moa from that scope u need a 45moa rail. With those no cant rings you are wasting the scopes potential.
You can also level off of the top of the bottom half of the scope mounting rings - level a rifle and in the vise then install the scope and level the scope
Missed a few important steps... Larry Potterfield at midway demonstrates a more detailed and complete procedure.
esta fuerte
No laping scope rings !!! Which is good
Great video-never thought about checking the action for level-Great insight!
Quik point, I wouldn't put thread locker in the hole. Put it on the screw threads...
Nice Gun ! Still want that vice, sweet...
just curious, why didn't you check the alignment of the scope rings first with the wheeler alignment pins before lapping? also why didn't you lap the top half of the rings as well?Thanks,Jim
Well presented. Easy to understand. I've done all this kind of research and learning the hard way from multiple sources. Nice to see a good quick guide on the quick and dirty!
When you bedded the recoil lug and removed the barrel action from the stock, it appears that the bedding over ran the lug area and you have some where the action rest's. Enough it looks like to raise the action a bit above the bedding block. Seem's to me the action is not going to make consistent contact on the bedding block
todays modern cnc manufacturing does a good job keeping close tolerances. however, scope rings, tops and bottoms need to be lapped in to correct any"mis-alignments. there is much thas not covered in this video but pretty good start for an average shooter to get better results.
you should have read the instructions on the wheeler torque wrench. You want it to click 3 times then you are at the proper torque setting, so essentially you have under torqued everything you have ever used that on lol
Any time you use Loctite, carefully specify what strength of Loc-Tite you're using. That red container might lead someone to use Red Loc-Tite.
A little dab of JB Weld will work to hold those screws tight.
Jesús Christ lol
Mike - It's been a long time, but I hope you're still at Gunwerks. How do you decide whether to use the G1 or the G7 for your ballistics calculation?
Use one then confirm with the other. The firing solution will (should) be the same.
Great video, guys. 👍🏽 Here in the Pacific Northwest we have rust issues that I never even worried about when I lived in the high desert, and the closer you live to the coast, the worse that pesky rust is, obviously.
After lapping rings and removing the anodizing, do you recommend applying anything for rust prevention, or are the tolerances so fine that rust is not an issue after the caps are torqued to spec?
Article II Industries if the rings are anodized then they aren't gonna rust even if you remove all the anodizing and leave bare metal because you anodize aluminum along with some other non ferrous metals like titanium but not steel. Steel, because it contains iron, is a ferrous metal and can't be anodized. So if the rings are truly anodized, and not nitrocarborized, phosphate coated, electroplated, powder coated, galvanized, etc, then you have nothing to worry about because the base metal is already rust or corrosion resistant by itself because it's a non ferrous metal and contains no iron. Iron has to be present in order to produce "rust". Rust is the common term for what's better defined as oxidation and the most commonly thought of oxidation, that red harsh feeling rust you see on old steel, is actually the chemical reaction between the iron in the steel and the oxygen in the air, water and or humidity. Being that non ferrous metals contain no iron they by themselves are excellent at withstanding corrosion and or oxidation. Short answer is if the rings are anodized then no you need nothing. If they are actually steel u still probably don't need any extra protection.
Curious why you didn’t use the alignment tools prior to lapping or attached the upper half of the rings? I do like how you leveled the action then the scope to it.
I’ve been leveling scopes long enough to have learned from the mistake to NEVER level a scope from the turrets. Use a plumb bob hanging and then level the reticle. Far more effective.
I agree. The reticle is the important part and that's what I go with. If you don't trust the machinework on the scope bases, hence lapping, why take a chance with the turrets?
Ahh! Never thought of that! That would explain why I can't get the cross hairs just right!
very threu, i always level scopes from the bottom flat, according to the action, pic- rail bottom scope using the back end of a Mitotoyo measure difice.
i do agree, although that nightforce scope is one of the better precision units available, and those turrets "should" be perfectly level with the reticle.
i still use plumb level, no matter what sights.
then range test for elevation/windage true adjustments on a solid bench.
Has anyone made a video on that ?
🤔 lapping only the lower half of the rings to get as much ring/scope contact. Yet does not bother to lap top half of rings. So out of 4 pieces, you're close to 50% scope to mount contact area?
More than likely all brands are cnc'd this day & time. Tolerances on cnc machines are very low. Somewhere around
+/- .0002"
Scope bases do not need to be lapped. If they do; perform the lapping on tops & bases together. Not just the lower half, this way you true both front and rear ring entirely to each other. Which will give you a closer to a 100% contact.
Do you ever lap the upper rings?
Why the action of the rifle is not tuned or put through a lath to make sure ever single area which is squared up and perfectly squared and true, that's what needs to be done as well?
I assume to lapped the top piece of the ring also, right?
Should you use the rings right to the action or get a scope base ?
red loc tite, use a torch to get it off, always use blue going by what the bottle looked like
Very educational ..Subscribed!
Cool. Is there a way to lap the top rings?
see my comments on part 1. His theory is wrong with the lapping..he only lapped the lower rings halfs which means the uppers could cause misalignment stress....lap both together.Would you line bore just one side of your car's main bearings?..This is the difference between an engineering tradesman, or a thoroughly expert armorer, and someone who just came through somewhere 'fixing' weapons. The underlying theory is ok but the practice exemplified isn't best practice.
what about the top rings if you want %100 contacts no lapping for the top ones?
I bedded my recoil lug in and can’t get it to come out any tricks you can share to get the barrel out so I don’t have to ruin my wood stock iused one shot and Vaseline as a release agent
So why didn't you put the tops on the rings when you honed the bases? I thought you want a "true fit", or both tops and bases "honed" the same???? :O
You need to keep tightening that scope's bracket's screws in the crisscross pattern.
dnz one piece mounts i started using few years ago..i would never use anything else now...
They are great if you don't use tactical scopes that you are adjusting the turrets on. Other wise u need a 45 moa rail. Otherwise you are wasting half of your scopes elevation potential.
Puts a nightforce scope on a rifle with cheap 2 piece rings. If you want real long range performance, get a 20 moa ot more rail on that rifle then mount the scope with some quality rings.
Put thread locker on the screw, NOT into the hole. I've seen actions completely gummed up from thread locker.
Totally agree also, why not wipe the metal surface area clean before basically permanently installing? Go though all the trouble to lap and etc. to have dirt and whatever crud stuck in btwn, maybe I'm OCD?
Before lapping the rings, make sure the rings are on the same plane. Most of the time it's not the rings but the receiver that's out of spec. So don't go and ruin a nice pair of rings if you don't have to.
+jtv3062 You are correct. The kit he is demonstrating contains the alignment bars to do this. He just skipped this step along with many other important steps. This video is bad advice. Look for other videos that explain proper technique.
PS its a Nightforce Scope. The box is laying on the table next to the weapon. :) hehe
Jason Lloyd which one specifically? Im looking for a good scope for this same rifle
Well done, thanks.
Hey, Mike. What are the dimensions of the bar stock that you placed in the action during the scope leveling process?
HORRAYYYYYYYYY SOMEONE THAT LAPS SCOPE RINGS !!! you would flip as to how many don't !! great vid!
Should you lap the top ring halves also?
If shooting primarily at ranges over 100 yds is a side focus parallax needed or of any use? thanks
Hi Mike ! I would like to know what brand vise do you use and what is the website for that wheeler engineering ? I would very much appreciate. Thanks !
Do y0u remove the tape from the sides of the recoil lug
Hanging a plumline an setin your vertical hair to that works best once gun is level I've noticed the use of a level on turret is not good try an turn turret 180 degrees an u will get different result buy placeing the level on turret
Stick with 18-20 in/lb on these Talley rings. Mine cracked at 25 in/lb.
Thank you for the info! Just one question regarding leveling the scope. What or where are you adjusting the level of the scope? You’ve already secured the mounts and rings so how are you adjusting the actual level if any correction is needed?
I'll use a solid rail mount for my 14x Redfield illuminator. Rifles have a shock load transfer when fired, and separately mounted rings are no good.
Why don’t you
Bore sight it before going to the range ?
Hi, how many newtons is the torque wrench set for?
What scope is that? Nightforce...
Forgot to blue lock tight the ring screws
That's a sales manager I can get behind my dudes
But I guess as long as it sets flat in the bed the top is just clamping so I suppose it will work fine. If it moved in there you'd need to lap bot sides for sure.
Yeah! I don't get not lapping all of it. Maybe I don't know everything but I thought I did!
+h2o4170 No, you are correct. Lap both top and bottom is the correct procedure.
What nightforce scope did you guys use?
2:40 -- There's no need to do this unless you have trash rings with burrs on them. Also who in the right mind laps only half the rings? Double torque each screw as well to ensure an even pound spec and you never need loctite. I know this video is old hat but if your viewing this for the first time this is what NOT TO DO.
...people actually pay you guys for shoddy work?
Not really. You'd be surprised at how much a top ring can deflect, same with scope tube. With cap scews, the top cap can self align. The important touch point is the base ring and alignment of action. Things can really go south there. As per screw threads, it is not recommended to tighten the scope cap screws to the std screw torque, significant damage to your tube could occur. All the ring mfg spec a torque much too low to get enough axial pre-load to make the screw self locking. Hence the locktite. Trust me tens of thousands of light hunting rifles, we've seen every way it can fail.
He said they're lightweight so I would assume so. I have one piece Talley's on some of my rifles and I use the aluminum version.
Why did you not lap the top of the rings?
What brand and specific type of scope are you mounting in this video?
Looks like a nightforce shv
When setting up eye relief on a variable-power scope, what range is it advisable to use when setting the eye relief distance? (i.e. low power, mid power or high power?
I've found the eye relief distance to be more critical at higher power settings, and would recommend setting it up that way. It has worked for me for a long time.
WRONG! way to level a scope, even night force says not to go by the plane of the turrets or the underside of the base because the internal alignment of the crosshairs could be off, which you really begin to notice around 500 to 600 yards if its off. I use an aluminum device with a v notch and starret master level to level the action and then use a bright string tied to a plum bob at 25 yards to align the cross hairs. This way both the action and the crosshairs (not the scope body) are level with gravity (not the ground). You would think a company that charges thousands for their (very overpriced rifles) would know better.
What is the size of that bar stock?? Do you find it fits most actions?
@Jason West... I need to know too as I have Savage 110 Tactical in .308 which the bolt raceway is the same as 7mm-08, 6.5cm, and .243, where can we find this bar stock?
Mcmillan is excellent too
Great vid! Thanks!
mark r pa long shooting 40 yrs good vid
Do you need to lap the rings down if you're mounting a DNZ Game Reaper (ie: single piece)?
I too always use fifty dollar scope mount/rings with two thousand dollar scopes LOL
You should check our uber awesome Gunwerks rings we use now! I think they should be expensive enough for you.
What's the Model of rifle scope?
i just bought a zastava z98 300 win mag with weaver two peace base what scope ring do you recommend
What vice is that?
Lapping bar not needed with modern CNC tolerances, just saying
what would be a budget scope to mount to my 8 mm sporting rifle
primary arms
Meopta
lol the only thing I buy from Remington is the action throw away the barrel trigger and stock
Dont take you gun to gunwerks ..... Locktite goes on the screws, check your ring alignment prior to lapping, lap the tops as well as the bottoms if lapping is needed, there are specific torque settings and patterns depending on the rings.
The Rem. Sendero comes from the factory free-floated.
I wish I could get them to do my Rifle .
whats height on those rings appreciate if u can answer thnks?
WHAT EPOXY ARE YOU USING
You didnt adjust the scope forward/backwards. That is very important to do that.
what kind of rings were they? where can I purchase some?
labradormadtrapper Talley
What no 20 MOA rail for the scope?
Or better a 20 moa piccitany rail, makes leveling the scope much easyar too.
you didn't free float your barrel?
0:20 YOU WON'T NEED MANY TOOLS ! 2:40 WTF ? NOW I NEED SPECIAL SCOPE MOUNTING TOOL KIT $$$ ARE YOU FREEBASING DUDE OR HAVE MULTIPLE PERSONALITIES 🤯
Honestly a fairly inexpensive kit. Probably one of the better investments I’ve made. Don’t really need it but really no drawback to having it.
Why didn't you lap the top ring.I thought when you lap the scope rings you do BOTH?
I was about to ask the same question. I lap both the top and bottom. It takes a little more time and you have to slightly tighten the top rings down a couple of times, but it makes for better contact.I also blue loc tite the screws on the top scope rings. Recoil will back them off sometimes. Most of the time it's not an issue but once you had one get loose you start to loc tite all of them.
He did
What scope is that
Night force NXS
nice...
Нельзя ставить уровень на барабан вертикали.
Caps get honed
That's not a very precise way to put on the scope for long-range precision. That might be okay for hunting at 300 yards or your average shooter shooting at paper.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!