I fixed mine using a vehicle swap. No problems now 👍 I'm lying lol I still got my little shitbox ravioli. I noticed aftermarket pistons from engine tech have full sized oil rings. The toyota "updated" oil rings seem to still consume oil. I figured I'd check around and see what others are using before I order the engine tech rings. I've used enginetech quite a bit in the past. One engine I build using all enginetec parts is a friend I'm still in contact with. She has kept the truck and has so far, as of couple months ago when I brought it up, put 60,000 miles on it. No issues. It's an early 2010s 5.3L chevy truck. As much as I love chevy they have a few issues in stock form. So I'm definitely confident in enginetech brand
" The toyota "updated" oil rings seem to still consume oil." I found many of these engines are runnig such a low vac on the PCV System they don't function properly and that's the real problem. Acura/Honda has been running -.2 to -.6inH2O at hot/idle which is too low. Then when you go to Low Tension rings and then to 0-20W oil they developed an oil ring problem. I changed my PCV System to run -1 to -2inHg to correct the problem with a Catch Can. Put a Manometer(30 bucks) on the Dipstick Tube(Hot/Idle) and see if that's the problem. You might be able to correct the PCV System and clear the rings without disassembly. This information off of an F1 site; ---------------------------------------------------------- 5 inHg (2.5psi) crankcase depression is enough to: * eliminate the need for valve stem seals for drag reduction (assumes heads are vented to crankcase) * eliminate the need for oil rings on the pistons (or very weak zero-drag oil rings) * eliminate totally any oil contamination of the combustion chamber (slightest minute trace causes detonation which you must design out or "tune out" with the usual methods that reduce power) * eliminate compression ring flutter and maintain perfect seal at WOT and near-WOT (assuming intake port tuning is somewhat correct) ------------------------------------------------------ This much vacuum will pull too much oil out(in the form of oil mist) of the sump with a production car/truck and is why you won't see it in street cars. F1 are running -17inHg from what I've found. We need again -1 to -3inHg for good function on street applications. th-cam.com/video/szdbXMxqW_U/w-d-xo.html
I'm about to do this job, and this gives some confidence. 2007 Rav4, burning about a quart every 800 miles. I'm no stranger to engine work, but more on old Fords. Many thanks for posting this. I mean it, many thanks.
@@benjamink1403 somewhat delayed. we're actually using the car as a backup right now, but with keen eye on oil usage. Other car being repaired due to a animal committing suicide on a 70mph interstate. Anywway, the rav4 - It's at 1 quart per 500 miles. keep you posted.
I'm surprised the 10mm single Hex didn't work for the head bolts. That or I'm seriously lucky. In 2019 I had a dealer do a rebuild for me because I was burning coolant. That didn't solve the problem and they pressure tested my head and it was cracked so they replaced that. Fast forward to 2024 and I have a cracked cylinder head again (but I'm doing the repair this time). I actually had to take the head off twice because I forgot to put the plastic water sleeve in the water jacket which unfortunately cost me an extra head gasket and set of head bolts. Each time I had no problem using my 10mm Craftsman Hex Bit socket when breaking and when torquing per spec/procedure. I seriously considered buying the bi-hexagon socket but never once had any sign of slipping or rounding. Amazing video btw! I'm still in the process of my head replacement, just waiting on some parts.
Outstanding video.. have an 07 scion tc with 290k on the clock and burns a quart every other tank or so. By “burns”, I think it’s the cat burning the oil because it doesn’t smoke at all.. which is weird
if u ever have to do this again or for anyone else...first and foremost NEVER do all pistons at the same time. complete each piston separately so when something goes wrong you know which one is causing the issue. 2nd of all never tip the engine upside down with loose pistons. keep it at an angle so they dont fall out on accident until all 4 are secure in place before torqing. they are aluminum. one dent and all your work is ruined! 3rd of all i noticed you never oiled up the pistons and rings before u plopped the piston in the bore. always oil them first. just a tip from an ex master mechanic. other than that, pretty solid video. good work. putting it back together with no missing bolts is the fun part lol
I am in the middle of this job right now, but not doing the kit. An old toaster oven at 200⁰F makes those wrist pins very easy to just push out without tools. Looking to rebuild my nasty cylinder head as well. It is just so caked with carbon. The valves, springs, and keepers are in an improvised organizer built from a 2 dozen egg carton. 2007 Scion TC.
Great Job! i never had to hammer in a valve seal. normally i use a 10mm long socket and just push a tad and it pops in. this engine design i guess goes across a bunch of toyota engines.
Same. I originally hammered them in, then the last few, I noticed I only needed to push with my finger. So I convinced myself I damaged the others by hammering them so I replaced them all again lol.
I like the video. I have to do this to my engine in my Scion tC (which has the same engine). I plan on going with forged internals since I plan on putting a turbo in the car.
Awesome, replacing the pistons is a good opportunity to reduce the compression ratio a bit so you can run more boost. Also I would suggest 4032 alloy pistons, since 2618 is often overkill and requires larger clearances that cause noise.
Toyota sells a complete new short block assembly with all pistons, rings(corrected/revised rings), shafts and all at about $2000 plus minus, some assemblies cost about $1800 with discount, some at about $2300, depends on year and production location. So I'm just thinking what to do in my case as well with my 2008 RAV4 - to go over a rebuild or just buy a new short block assembly from Toyota and reuse my cylinder head with new valves, springs, tappets, chain and all the stuff.
If you're doing the work yourself, might as well do it all on your own. Having a complete short block will only save you a small amount of time. You'll still have to pull the engine, swap all the stuff, refresh the cylinder head, etc.
From what I've heard, the low tension oil rings were the problem with these engines. That and the 10k oil change. Do 3k to 4k oil changes with quality oil to prevent gumming up the rings. I thought that Toyota's upgrade kit (pistons and rings) were not low tension?
This repair is simply because the 2azfe rendition toyota had done, caused them to burn oil. They put low tension springs and the pistons weren't meant for them, so this repair has to be done.
at 43:09 is EXACTLY what i was talking about below. thats why you NEVER do all 4 at the same time. you put one in first, complete it all the way then you rotate the crank to see if everything is spinning freely. and thats also why you MUST oil everything first. that sandpaper grind you hear is not good at all. you should not be hearing that at all and the pistons should be moving severely easy, gliding like butter. there should be no resistance. if all is good, you move to the next and so on. now you know =]
@@Eye_4_An_Eye thanks for the info, everything got oiled up and I checked each piston as I went, the way I shot and edited it leaves a lot of these small things out. As for the sliding noise, that's probably from the budget honing job with the flex hone, which I understand is inferior to a professional hone.
@@rainvillecreative5410 nahh brother thats not honing at all thats an issue with the way you did the pistons but i pray all goes well. was a great video but im concerned with how hard it was for you to turn them. it shoudnt be hard like that it should be very easy.
@@Eye_4_An_Eye all is good, I always check the rolling friction of the engine once assembled with a torque wrench, and it was reasonable. 35k miles so far and no issues.
I have a toyota Ipsum 240u with the same engine, and while it definitely is burning oil I'm not sure how much. Enough that in the time between buying the (second hand 157K(kilometers) car and the recommended oil change interval(160K), the low oil light came on, and it got starved oil for a little bit before I could book a oil and filter change.
You can have stuck Oil Control rings and compression rings be fine. No suction on the Filler Cap is more a sign of a non functioning PCV System. An engine needs to have 1-3inHg at the Dipstick tube running to effectively evacuate the Crankcase of contaminated Blowby gases.
At 6:48, is that a big jug of Boones Farm wine on the floor? You sir are a TRUE New Englander 😁. Great video btw, ill be doing the same to my wife's rav4 in about 2 weeks.
Late response.. but, when you’re taking the engine apart document everything.. pictures, notes, etc. Ive always like using the cardboard trick for punching bolts into and then marking on the cardboard with a marker what is what. You can also trace the shape of a surface where bolts go.. very handy. Take your time. Have all the tools, chemicals, work area.. you need ready. Have cups, containers ready for storage trays.. most of this type work is not too complicated.. its all about organization that determines whether it goes smooth or not. O .. and have a back up vehicle ready for parts store trips
My wifes 07 rav burned 2 qts of oil every 230 miles. Then a lowed lower end clanking happened that sounded like main bearings. after removing the engine I found it was the water pump. Im going to try my luck at just finding a junk yard motor and selling this
I don't think so, but I would recommend it. The driveshaft on the back of the engine that the passenger CV axle connects to is what gets in the way, not the CV axle itself. It has to be unbolted but it would help to fully remove the shaft since I remember it getting in the way of the block, mostly with putting the engine back in though.
@@rainvillecreative5410 Thanks for taking the time to answer. I'm in the process of clearing stuff to pull the engine out from top in my 2001 AWD Rav4. I already removed the stiffener plate you mentioned ..It's just the tranny and tc bolts keeping me from removing it now...hopefully. The rear shaft needs to e unbolted to wiggle the engine back in place? Cheers!
@@alejandrojofre8644 Actually I'm not sure, mine was FWD. It's generally good to get stuff out of the way, I wound up having the engine get caught up on the axle shaft trying to drop it in.
@@rainvillecreative5410 Hi. Got the engine out. However, six out of 10 head bolts are rounded. Which size drill bit did you use to brake yours loose? Thanks
do you think you have too much rotational play on the two-gear balance shaft? When it's new, you can hardly rotate the gear, but I can see you're able to rotate the gear almost a tooth. Do you detect clattering noise when step on or let go of the gas pedal?
You might be on to something... there is low RPM clattering that I had assumed to be piston slap. It's mostly at idle, but goes away quickly when RPMs go over 1000. I thought it might be a timing chain issue too maybe. I will look into this more.
@@rainvillecreative5410 if you detect clattering noise (similar to ticking) at idle and around the head vicinity and noise seems to fade away as speed increases, it's likely due to the two-gear balancer out of synchronization due to too much rotational play. When it has too much play, the fibrous gear (black gear) teeth eventual break into small pieces and clog up the oil pickup causing oil starvation.
@@glenglene8473 You're 100% right, I had no idea that gear wasn't supposed to move. Ordering a new one now. I just hope I don't have to pull the engine again...
toyota admitted their fault was the piston rings. They released a kit which once its done it can probably give you a great mileage. You can check if yours has had it done by checking the color of the Sealant used. If its grey, thats factory. If its black, that means someone else has been inside. If the timing cover, the top cover and bottom cover show all black, its likely someone opened up the engine for a rebuilt and could of been done already.
Hello, very well explained, I want to know if you can tell me how to calibrate and if you give me the values for each exhaust valve as for intake of this three-cylinder TOYOTA YARIS second series 2° XP9 (2005/2011)
They're like the early L20B Nissan engines - you just can't fix 'em. They'll just start smoking again after a couple of weeks. The later ones were heaps better and morphed into the Z20, etc., and were indestructible.
you can. Just remove the oil pan and remove the lower housing. I did that few weeks ago. You can also remove the shafts to gain few HP. People say removing the shafts could cause vibration, but I don't think you can feel it. Just plug up the supply oil feed so you don't lose oil pressure.
Yea i had to remove the motor without any engine hoist and having never done it before.. i used ratchet straps and an iron pipe bolted to the rafters.. my 2az had a cracked rod and vvti was shot.. it got hot and was about the nastiest smell a car can have inside that aluminum block.. worse than any gear oil that Ive smelled.. made the whole house smell for a week.. aluminum and burnt oil is one bad mix..
They're kind of sub-par for a modern 2.4 engine, in that they are so-so fuel consumption-wise, and aren't particularly spritely in the performance department. Add to that the oil consumption, and why bother. My freaking worn-out PT Cruiser uses less oil than my friend's RAV4 that just got towed to the shop, and I think her car is doomed. POS. I'm told that rebuilding these things is a fool's errand. A new short-block is the only practical solution. The old 5SFE 2.2 Camry engine was amazing - unless seriously overheated. Got 400K out of one before I killed it with a heavy trailer on a long hill. Still got me home, and ran and drove for a couple more weeks before I traded it in. Oil light on the whole time, and knocking like a bastard. I miss that ugly old wagon.
I think it's an OK engine at best, but not a POS. The work did eradicate the oil burning, though, so I consider it a success. Might just be from clean, fresh rings, who knows, but if it starts burning oil again at 300k miles, who cares. I just rebuilt a K24 and the differences between that "amazing" engine with large aftermarket support and this "junk" 2AZ are small.
Seriously, I'd appreciate it if you'd report back on the oil consumption in 5000 - 8000 miles. I'll eat both my hat and yours if you cured the thing. IVMDI.
@@rainvillecreative5410 is the engine block need turning ? Or if the condition is good no need for it ? Or the block can make it clean by sand paper in straight area to make surface of block and head are clean? Plz explain
44:25 This balance shaft is busted, it is not supposed to turn like this! Replaced it and it fixed a rattling noise when running.
The plastic gear isnt supposed to turn just a little? Mine does the same thing.
@@Z-Ack Nope, it is not supposed to move at all
Just delete the shafts and tap/ plug the oil feed for them.
wow that labor alone would total that 2007, kudos to you and your skills.
It's crazy how high quality beautiful videos like this can have only 200 likes. Thanks for making this.
I fixed mine using a vehicle swap. No problems now 👍
I'm lying lol I still got my little shitbox ravioli. I noticed aftermarket pistons from engine tech have full sized oil rings. The toyota "updated" oil rings seem to still consume oil. I figured I'd check around and see what others are using before I order the engine tech rings. I've used enginetech quite a bit in the past. One engine I build using all enginetec parts is a friend I'm still in contact with. She has kept the truck and has so far, as of couple months ago when I brought it up, put 60,000 miles on it. No issues. It's an early 2010s 5.3L chevy truck. As much as I love chevy they have a few issues in stock form. So I'm definitely confident in enginetech brand
No need to touch the silicone after applying
" The toyota "updated" oil rings seem to still consume oil." I found many of these engines are runnig such a low vac on the PCV System they don't function properly and that's the real problem. Acura/Honda has been running -.2 to -.6inH2O at hot/idle which is too low. Then when you go to Low Tension rings and then to 0-20W oil they developed an oil ring problem. I changed my PCV System to run -1 to -2inHg to correct the problem with a Catch Can. Put a Manometer(30 bucks) on the Dipstick Tube(Hot/Idle) and see if that's the problem. You might be able to correct the PCV System and clear the rings without disassembly.
This information off of an F1 site;
----------------------------------------------------------
5 inHg (2.5psi) crankcase depression is enough to:
* eliminate the need for valve stem seals for drag reduction (assumes heads are vented to crankcase)
* eliminate the need for oil rings on the pistons (or very weak zero-drag oil rings)
* eliminate totally any oil contamination of the combustion chamber (slightest minute trace causes detonation which you must design out or "tune out" with the usual methods that reduce power)
* eliminate compression ring flutter and maintain perfect seal at WOT and near-WOT (assuming intake port tuning is somewhat correct)
------------------------------------------------------
This much vacuum will pull too much oil out(in the form of oil mist) of the sump with a production car/truck and is why you won't see it in street cars. F1 are running -17inHg from what I've found. We need again -1 to -3inHg for good function on street applications.
th-cam.com/video/szdbXMxqW_U/w-d-xo.html
What year rav4
Damn you are the DIY king, kudos to you sir for accomplishing this!
I'm about to do this job, and this gives some confidence. 2007 Rav4, burning about a quart every 800 miles. I'm no stranger to engine work, but more on old Fords. Many thanks for posting this. I mean it, many thanks.
@mikeward2922 how did it go??
@@benjamink1403 somewhat delayed. we're actually using the car as a backup right now, but with keen eye on oil usage. Other car being repaired due to a animal committing suicide on a 70mph interstate. Anywway, the rav4 - It's at 1 quart per 500 miles. keep you posted.
I'm surprised the 10mm single Hex didn't work for the head bolts. That or I'm seriously lucky. In 2019 I had a dealer do a rebuild for me because I was burning coolant. That didn't solve the problem and they pressure tested my head and it was cracked so they replaced that. Fast forward to 2024 and I have a cracked cylinder head again (but I'm doing the repair this time). I actually had to take the head off twice because I forgot to put the plastic water sleeve in the water jacket which unfortunately cost me an extra head gasket and set of head bolts. Each time I had no problem using my 10mm Craftsman Hex Bit socket when breaking and when torquing per spec/procedure. I seriously considered buying the bi-hexagon socket but never once had any sign of slipping or rounding.
Amazing video btw! I'm still in the process of my head replacement, just waiting on some parts.
Outstanding video.. have an 07 scion tc with 290k on the clock and burns a quart every other tank or so. By “burns”, I think it’s the cat burning the oil because it doesn’t smoke at all.. which is weird
if u ever have to do this again or for anyone else...first and foremost NEVER do all pistons at the same time. complete each piston separately so when something goes wrong you know which one is causing the issue. 2nd of all never tip the engine upside down with loose pistons. keep it at an angle so they dont fall out on accident until all 4 are secure in place before torqing. they are aluminum. one dent and all your work is ruined! 3rd of all i noticed you never oiled up the pistons and rings before u plopped the piston in the bore. always oil them first. just a tip from an ex master mechanic. other than that, pretty solid video. good work. putting it back together with no missing bolts is the fun part lol
Nice that you put all that work in.
100% for effort.
Great job, young man
I am in the middle of this job right now, but not doing the kit. An old toaster oven at 200⁰F makes those wrist pins very easy to just push out without tools. Looking to rebuild my nasty cylinder head as well. It is just so caked with carbon. The valves, springs, and keepers are in an improvised organizer built from a 2 dozen egg carton. 2007 Scion TC.
Great Job! i never had to hammer in a valve seal. normally i use a 10mm long socket and just push a tad and it pops in. this engine design i guess goes across a bunch of toyota engines.
Same.
I originally hammered them in, then the last few, I noticed I only needed to push with my finger. So I convinced myself I damaged the others by hammering them so I replaced them all again lol.
Great job, especially with not much room to work.
You should add an oil cooler to it from a Highlander. A friend of mine did it and should help alot.
Low-tension rings are the entire problem, my friend.
@57:40 Son of a...... Been there bro! Nice job all around!
I like the video. I have to do this to my engine in my Scion tC (which has the same engine). I plan on going with forged internals since I plan on putting a turbo in the car.
Awesome, replacing the pistons is a good opportunity to reduce the compression ratio a bit so you can run more boost. Also I would suggest 4032 alloy pistons, since 2618 is often overkill and requires larger clearances that cause noise.
if you do go forged look into supra pistons as the bore size for the 2az if 88MM you and have the engine bored out 2mm to fit supra pistions
You have great courage and skill, although the 2007 RAV4 not worth much money.
Toyota sells a complete new short block assembly with all pistons, rings(corrected/revised rings), shafts and all at about $2000 plus minus, some assemblies cost about $1800 with discount, some at about $2300, depends on year and production location. So I'm just thinking what to do in my case as well with my 2008 RAV4 - to go over a rebuild or just buy a new short block assembly from Toyota and reuse my cylinder head with new valves, springs, tappets, chain and all the stuff.
If you're doing the work yourself, might as well do it all on your own. Having a complete short block will only save you a small amount of time. You'll still have to pull the engine, swap all the stuff, refresh the cylinder head, etc.
From what I've heard, the low tension oil rings were the problem with these engines. That and the 10k oil change. Do 3k to 4k oil changes with quality oil to prevent gumming up the rings. I thought that Toyota's upgrade kit (pistons and rings) were not low tension?
Look how clean those valves were.
Only problem?- low tension rings. Goddamnit!
Great job. I am curious to know how much will you charge to do the same process on my rav4 2007 v4?
When pistons damage cylinder walls at this point will you need new engine block to do
this repair properly
No doubt you had the bbs to do it
This repair is simply because the 2azfe rendition toyota had done, caused them to burn oil. They put low tension springs and the pistons weren't meant for them, so this repair has to be done.
Flad to see the Engine can come iut the top and trans and suspension can stay in place, as i plan to do this engine swap in my yard
Did you do it? Howd it go?
Excellent tutorial. Thank you for sharing!!!!!
at 43:09 is EXACTLY what i was talking about below. thats why you NEVER do all 4 at the same time. you put one in first, complete it all the way then you rotate the crank to see if everything is spinning freely. and thats also why you MUST oil everything first. that sandpaper grind you hear is not good at all. you should not be hearing that at all and the pistons should be moving severely easy, gliding like butter. there should be no resistance. if all is good, you move to the next and so on. now you know =]
@@Eye_4_An_Eye thanks for the info, everything got oiled up and I checked each piston as I went, the way I shot and edited it leaves a lot of these small things out. As for the sliding noise, that's probably from the budget honing job with the flex hone, which I understand is inferior to a professional hone.
@@rainvillecreative5410 nahh brother thats not honing at all thats an issue with the way you did the pistons but i pray all goes well. was a great video but im concerned with how hard it was for you to turn them. it shoudnt be hard like that it should be very easy.
@@Eye_4_An_Eye all is good, I always check the rolling friction of the engine once assembled with a torque wrench, and it was reasonable. 35k miles so far and no issues.
I have a toyota Ipsum 240u with the same engine, and while it definitely is burning oil I'm not sure how much. Enough that in the time between buying the (second hand 157K(kilometers) car and the recommended oil change interval(160K), the low oil light came on, and it got starved oil for a little bit before I could book a oil and filter change.
Nicely done! Where did you order your pistons and rings?
They were all genuine Toyota parts, I think the pistons were from the dealer, rings came in a rebuild kit on eBay
Great job 🫡
Awesome job 😮. Super dooper 👍🏼👍🏼
Very nice and good gob
You can have stuck Oil Control rings and compression rings be fine. No suction on the Filler Cap is more a sign of a non functioning PCV System. An engine needs to have 1-3inHg at the Dipstick tube running to effectively evacuate the Crankcase of contaminated Blowby gases.
Good job
Awesomeness
Thank for u video bro i have the same car burning oil
At 6:48, is that a big jug of Boones Farm wine on the floor? You sir are a TRUE New Englander 😁. Great video btw, ill be doing the same to my wife's rav4 in about 2 weeks.
Lol, I have no idea what the brand is, but it's full of old gas! Thanks and good luck.
Any advice for someone trying to pull this off for the first time and being totally new at this type of things? Granted I have a TC but same engine
Late response.. but, when you’re taking the engine apart document everything.. pictures, notes, etc. Ive always like using the cardboard trick for punching bolts into and then marking on the cardboard with a marker what is what. You can also trace the shape of a surface where bolts go.. very handy. Take your time. Have all the tools, chemicals, work area.. you need ready. Have cups, containers ready for storage trays.. most of this type work is not too complicated.. its all about organization that determines whether it goes smooth or not. O .. and have a back up vehicle ready for parts store trips
My wifes 07 rav burned 2 qts of oil every 230 miles. Then a lowed lower end clanking happened that sounded like main bearings. after removing the engine I found it was the water pump. Im going to try my luck at just finding a junk yard motor and selling this
Is the good work.
Thanks for this very detailed video. But what kit would you recommend?
Did you install inserts for the head bolts? Aren't these engines known for stripping the threads in the block?
No- the earlier ones were, but that was fixed for the '07, as I remember
nice
That engine looks similar to the Honda K series engine.
What was that big thing you dropped into the cooling jacket after removing the head again?
I forget what it's called, but it was there when I took it apart... so back in it went.
It’s stop the bubbling noise when you turn the car off.
Dude has to be a Toyota auto tech.
The hell you put aroubd the cylinders? Some big plastic thing? Mine didnt have one those..
Great job there! Did you have to remove the cv axle on the passenger side in order to have room to separate the engine from the the tc/tranny?
I don't think so, but I would recommend it. The driveshaft on the back of the engine that the passenger CV axle connects to is what gets in the way, not the CV axle itself. It has to be unbolted but it would help to fully remove the shaft since I remember it getting in the way of the block, mostly with putting the engine back in though.
@@rainvillecreative5410 Thanks for taking the time to answer. I'm in the process of clearing stuff to pull the engine out from top in my 2001 AWD Rav4. I already removed the stiffener plate you mentioned ..It's just the tranny and tc bolts keeping me from removing it now...hopefully. The rear shaft needs to e unbolted to wiggle the engine back in place? Cheers!
@@alejandrojofre8644 Actually I'm not sure, mine was FWD. It's generally good to get stuff out of the way, I wound up having the engine get caught up on the axle shaft trying to drop it in.
@@rainvillecreative5410 Hi. Got the engine out. However, six out of 10 head bolts are rounded. Which size drill bit did you use to brake yours loose? Thanks
do you think you have too much rotational play on the two-gear balance shaft? When it's new, you can hardly rotate the gear, but I can see you're able to rotate the gear almost a tooth. Do you detect clattering noise when step on or let go of the gas pedal?
You might be on to something... there is low RPM clattering that I had assumed to be piston slap. It's mostly at idle, but goes away quickly when RPMs go over 1000. I thought it might be a timing chain issue too maybe. I will look into this more.
@@rainvillecreative5410 if you detect clattering noise (similar to ticking) at idle and around the head vicinity and noise seems to fade away as speed increases, it's likely due to the two-gear balancer out of synchronization due to too much rotational play. When it has too much play, the fibrous gear (black gear) teeth eventual break into small pieces and clog up the oil pickup causing oil starvation.
@@glenglene8473 You're 100% right, I had no idea that gear wasn't supposed to move. Ordering a new one now. I just hope I don't have to pull the engine again...
@@rainvillecreative5410can you do an update on the engine and oil consumption since the video almost been out for a year please
noticed tht, that balance shaft needed to be replaced, should not be able to move that gear at all.
Mine uses 1 qt for every 350 miles. I just add as needed. Paid 1000 for the vibe.
Have you got the part number for the pistons and rings
I have the same engine in my camry and now its burning a lot of oil. 3 liters in 3000kms. I dont know what to do =(
You can check the PCV valve, it's really easy to get to and cheap to replace. Might help a little, so it's worth a shot.
@Rainville Creative I will give it a go. thanks
Add oil as needed, thats what I do. My vibe runs great, reliable but just uses oil.
what's usually the most common fail on this engine's?
toyota admitted their fault was the piston rings. They released a kit which once its done it can probably give you a great mileage. You can check if yours has had it done by checking the color of the Sealant used. If its grey, thats factory. If its black, that means someone else has been inside. If the timing cover, the top cover and bottom cover show all black, its likely someone opened up the engine for a rebuilt and could of been done already.
all rigth..
I appreciate!!!
👊👊👍
what product did you use for cleaning the components(that green liquid) ??
Simple green
@@rainvillecreative5410 Thanks much appreciated much respect for your videos all the way from South Africa
How much did it end up costing you? Considering this vs just buying a jdm engine. Have most of these tools except bore guage and spring compressor.
A used motor was about $2000, and I did this for about half that
This is my job sir
Hello, very well explained, I want to know if you can tell me how to calibrate and if you give me the values for each exhaust valve as for intake of this three-cylinder TOYOTA YARIS second series 2° XP9 (2005/2011)
Find the factory service manual for your car and consult that
@rainvillecreative5410
LOL is it too hard to research for yourself?
@@NunamedDragon could ask you the same question lmao
Do you have a part number or an online source for the rebuild kit?
They're like the early L20B Nissan engines - you just can't fix 'em.
They'll just start smoking again after a couple of weeks.
The later ones were heaps better and morphed into the Z20, etc., and were indestructible.
does a HKS pistion fit inside this engine? i have an 03 camry with 275,000km
How do piston oil squirters fix a munted block?
Toyota, what have you done?
What size crank and con rod bearings did you use
Can engine balance shaft be replaced through the sump underneath the car?
you can. Just remove the oil pan and remove the lower housing. I did that few weeks ago. You can also remove the shafts to gain few HP. People say removing the shafts could cause vibration, but I don't think you can feel it. Just plug up the supply oil feed so you don't lose oil pressure.
@@glenglene8473did this in my 3rz.
i have 2011 4 cyl 4wd. 350k...started at 28 k.
What is the name of head bolt tool ??
It's a 10mm double hex. I ordered mine from CTA Manufacturing, since the Amazon one was the wrong tool.
10mm triple square
@@gregory9740 It is not a triple square, there is a difference in the angles between the edges
@@rainvillecreative5410 Your right, double hex has a 120* angle and triple square has a 90* angle. Thanks I thought they were all the same.
You have a good video but you don,t tell
any torque values.
Hi,
What kind of oil you use for this engine. I have the 2013 model. Thnx in advance
I’m doing the same plas transmisión
Yea i had to remove the motor without any engine hoist and having never done it before.. i used ratchet straps and an iron pipe bolted to the rafters.. my 2az had a cracked rod and vvti was shot.. it got hot and was about the nastiest smell a car can have inside that aluminum block.. worse than any gear oil that Ive smelled.. made the whole house smell for a week.. aluminum and burnt oil is one bad mix..
They're kind of sub-par for a modern 2.4 engine, in that they are so-so fuel consumption-wise, and aren't particularly spritely in the performance department. Add to that the oil consumption, and why bother.
My freaking worn-out PT Cruiser uses less oil than my friend's RAV4 that just got towed to the shop, and I think her car is doomed.
POS.
I'm told that rebuilding these things is a fool's errand.
A new short-block is the only practical solution.
The old 5SFE 2.2 Camry engine was amazing - unless seriously overheated.
Got 400K out of one before I killed it with a heavy trailer on a long hill.
Still got me home, and ran and drove for a couple more weeks before I traded it in.
Oil light on the whole time, and knocking like a bastard.
I miss that ugly old wagon.
I think it's an OK engine at best, but not a POS. The work did eradicate the oil burning, though, so I consider it a success. Might just be from clean, fresh rings, who knows, but if it starts burning oil again at 300k miles, who cares.
I just rebuilt a K24 and the differences between that "amazing" engine with large aftermarket support and this "junk" 2AZ are small.
Seriously, I'd appreciate it if you'd report back on the oil consumption in 5000 - 8000 miles.
I'll eat both my hat and yours if you cured the thing.
IVMDI.
How is the oil consumption now ?
Nothing noticeable in the last 4k miles. The oil stays clean a lot longer too, it was turning black quickly before.
@@rainvillecreative5410 is the engine block need turning ? Or if the condition is good no need for it ? Or the block can make it clean by sand paper in straight area to make surface of block and head are clean? Plz explain
I bought the 12 point tool amd it still stripped it. Wtf
You probably were sent a triple square like I was... I hard to order mine from ctatools or something, the Amazon one was wrong
@@rainvillecreative5410 i doubled checked, it was right, from cta, and stripped one. Worst head bolts EVER
@@xESPplayer500x Oh damn. I guess make sure it's fully seated. I had to hammer my tool in to get it to seat because of how tight the fit was.
My name is Micheal
My job is mechanical engineering
What is this piece? 57:47
It's for directing coolant flow properly around the cylinders. It was there when I took it apart, just forgot to put it in initially.
@@rainvillecreative5410 - Thanks.
What are u doing u forget everything and reversed it😂😅
That engine is a disgrace to the Toyota brand
The fix is not a fix. Buy a new engine.
This fix is very much a fix.
where do you buy the upgraded stuff?