I made a mistake when checking the oil level. The car was already up on the two post lift which raises the front of the vehicle more than the rear. I believe this made the oil level look lower than it should have. It may have used a tiny bit of oil but my mistake makes it look worse than it really was. Sorry everyone! Rookie mistake!
Not a Big deal Wes. You were good enough to bring us along for this video. Cannot complain to much about fine details. Anyway we want to be seen as like your video,s so you will make more, LOL. Always a Thumbs Up from those who take the time to comment on your video,s. Thumbs Down only from those who don,t bother to get involved. Also good to see you have a man size workshop now. Regards Peter.
So how is the consumption a year later? Just wondering if i should buy a Scion xb. And do you know which year of this engine they fixed the problem? Or is this something everyone has to deal with?
Bought a 2009 Camry 175,000, from an elderly couple, original owners. Meticulously maintained at Toyota dealers in Wisconsin and California. Oil changed every 5,000 miles. Dealer was kind enough to mention "no oil visible on dipstick" on a couple of receipts - how thoughtful of them. Nonetheless it was consuming oil - had to do something, researched and found your channel. Thanks for taking the time to capture, edit, and post. I edit for a hobby and most don't realize how much works goes into that aspect. I acquired repair kit and pistons from McGeorge Toyota at a substantially reduced price as compared to local Wisconsin dealers. Your video inspired me and I did the same repair. Finished the job 700 miles ago. Oil rings were plugged solid on original pistons. I even repaired the exhaust manifold heat shield in a similar fashion. Oil level holding steady for now, engine is quieter once hot and idling. Thanks for sharing your experience! Now an avid subscriber.
You probably know this but anyways the worn shocks/struts will cause the tire to bounce when you hit a bump and causes tire wear. Also when you take 30 mph corners at 50 mph like many tend to do the tires wear and if there are bumps on the corner the tire is just skimming at times and if you brake on the corner the tire will try to lock up or abs kick in when you do not expect it. New tires will do a lot better if shocks are replaced before or when you do tires, once the tire starts to wear uneven it will not want to even out. Thanks for showing all you do, you are a wealth of knowledge and get me thinking to remember things I once knew and some things I would do myself.
I realize this is an older video, but my 2009 Camry with the 2.4l got a free "rebuild" from Toyota a little over a year ago. It had high oil consumption as well but I found a TH-cam video about a TSB concerning high oil consumption on certain 2.4Ls. My 09 was a few months and a few miles under the 10 year 150k limitation on the TSB. They even gave me a new Prius to use while they fixed it. When I asked about how long it might take, the service manager said, "Not long. Our guy that does them has done A LOT of them." 😄😄 I appreciate the videos Wes. I know they take a lot of extra time to do. Thanks!
Outside tire wear indicates an improper camber adjustment if smooth wear ,or an excessive toe in,if you see scallops on the edge of the thread. Generally the rear tires are worn on the inside,negative camber is often used on the rear end. Worn shocks cause the worn tire patches that you showed here. The tire is just bouncing on the road.
That washer on the oil plug is very important, not to prevent leaks, it won't leak with no washer, but will be hard to remove, I've seen several oil pans with striped threads due to replacing plug without washer.
Backing out of the shop, I noticed the sofa next to the lift. You da man! That's what I call being comfortable while working on the vehicles. Just slide it under, lay down or recline and go to work... lol.
Hi Wes, I enjoy your channel. Regarding your Toyota @.4L Oil Consumption Repair. A little oil consumption isn't bad. If you don't get oil consumption, the top ring on the pistons isn't being lubrication. This will cause the rings to wear and loose compression.
So, I watched all three vids. And I guess the moral of this story is: If you maintain ur car, change the oil at or near the recommended time, then, even a design flaw might not ruin the engine. These vids are really helpful to us DIYers, for sure. Can I get an opinion on aftermarket wheel bearings? After market run $45, Moog run $150+. My thinking here, is go cheap, if it fails spectacularly, go big. My car, not the wife or daughter's.
Nice follow up look good and the amount it had used in 6500 miles isn't bad at all not using nearly 1 20th of a quarter most oem toyota oil filters are cheaper then most aftermarket brands I normaly only replace the sealing washers once every year most Toyotas have permanent Sealing washers attached to the drain plug but most removable sealing washers can be used 5 to 10 times before then stop sealing sometimes even more the 15 to 20 times glad to hear that the engine is doing so well after the repairs @Watch Wes Work
Wes, great video. I have the 2012 Camry AFRE 4 cyl and it's burning around 2qts every 1000 miles. I came across a new oil by Valvoline called Restore and Protect which claims after using for 4 complete changes, will clean the piston landings, rings, etc., to 100% like new. I'm going to try it for my next oil change as a last resort before doing a overhaul. I've changed my oil every 5k, Mobil 1, so we'll see.
Switched to VR&P last month in my ‘12 Prius. No oil consumption in mine but decided I’d rather not get there if I can help it. They do say it’ll take at least 4 oil changes to get the full benefit. A year or two from now it’ll be interesting to see how rigs like yours have responded. Will it work on vehicles consuming large volumes of oil?
Thanks for this Rav 4 series! I am about to inherit the same vehicle from my dad so useful info. Right now burning about 1 litre in between oil changes so not too bad yet. It has only about 130,000 km on the car so far.
I have found myself lapping the drain plug sealing washer on a fine stone and high grit sand paper to take any nicks out, and reusing it. No leaks, no issues, no waste takes 30 seconds
Good video,again. I notice that my oil level varies considerably if parked on a hill. One observation I noticed was the torque on the oil filter. I tighten it way less than you did because it’s so difficult to break it free the next oil change. Seated plus about a 1/4 turn. Just my two cents. Hats off to you on another good video.
That pattern on the rear tires you showed is probably from worn out shock absorbers. Then you get those uneven wear on your tires. ells good work, keep it comming
@@erickieffer8440 worn hydraulics on the strut can do that as it allows the tire to bounce up and down more than it should which is what can cause the inconsistent wear pattern.
Most manufacturers won't say that's a problem I had a paseo 330,000 miles 2.5 quarts a 1000 miles and running strong cheaper to put oil in than rebuild.
A common issue I have seen on any brand of filter I have purchased is the threads. I have found several filters with loose burrs or shavings of steel ready to fall off from when they cut the threads. Just something to check at each install. I'm pretty sure this caused an engine to lock up on my Suzuki, found a single steel shaving in a main bearing near the oil groove, the thing had 130,000+ miles on it.
Good video Wes. The only thing i could add to this video is. I always pre-fill Oil Filters on any engine i work on. ( even the inverted versions ) Just a habit i have got into since most of the motors i work on are motorcycles. My partner owned the same car until one year ago. ( around 80,000 kms / 50,000 miles ) The RAV 4 is a fairly decent car to own. It,s a shame the pistons had a manufacture fault. Other than that a great car to own. Thanks for bringing us along. Love how you make your video,s ( always with an open mind ) Peter.
@@WatchWesWork Yes i know. It does seem to be a dig at you to a small point. I guess i am like most who watch TH-cam we always manage to find something wrong with every video we watch, LOL. No, all good. Just a point that came up. Nothing personal ( i know you understand ) Regards Peter.
For copper washers, I just heat them red hot, shock in water (anneal) and reuse. The copper work hardens when you torque the washer but annealing makes it soft again.
My understanding is that Napa Gold filters are Wix made, and I agree on them being a good bet. My choice on drain plugs is to buy a Dorman replacement with the built in face o-ring to seal to the pan. I've had good luck doing that and much prefer that to replacing fiber or copper washers.
Napa gold, platinum, etc are WIX oil filters with 1 number removed for Napa. That came from a WIX filter class I attended at a WIX distributor for my job. "AWSOME FILTERS"
Hey wes i ave a 2009 pontiac vibe 2.4 az engine i was burning one liter every 1000km (600 mille) got that stuff call sludge away from dura lube i am on my third treatment 1 liter per oil change and you no wat now one liter per oil change now 5000km not bad that stuff working really good it clean those hole from oil ring control ...
I heard guys at Honda use ATF instead of oil cleaning additive. They run them for on ATF a few hrs, a few rounds around the block, put some oil into spark plugs holes and let it sit for the whole night to free up the rings. Then they run the engine until warm, drain and install fresh oil and filter. Yeah, ever since 5w-20 appeared as recommended by CAFE, it's nothing but a circus with rings and oil consumption. I noticed in case of Honda if someone overdid the OCI over the 100%, it's most likely the engine will consume oil. Same with some VW. Oil is cheap enough to do much shorter intervals and avoid future problems. The new OCI recommendation for VW, BMW, Audi is now 30k km using their Long Life lubricant - I'm somewhat sceptical. I remember when Benz tried some 20k oil change intervals experiment and engines were seizing up and they changed quite a few on warranty. LiquiMolly also sell some engine flush additive.
I would like to tell my Toyota excess oil consumption story, because it might give people something to try short of the proper rebuild that you did. In a nutshell: Six bottles of Techron gas additive resolved an excess oil consumption problem in my 2005 Prius. Said problem being due, ultimately, to stuck piston rings due to extreme upper-cylinder carbon buildup. That happened around 140K miles. We're now at 200K. With normal oil consumption. Full story: I live in Virginia. My 2005 Prius began to burn excess oil around 130K miles. By 140K, it had gone from one quart between changes to one quart every 500. Seemed too quick to be from wear-and-tear, but there was clearly a lot of blow-by as the oil absolutely stank of exhaust. Dealer put in a bore scope and said "there's so much carbon buildup that the rings no longer contact the cylinder walls." Carbon buildup was no surprise. Car pinged pretty badly during mild acceleration. I ignored it because I didn't notice any loss of power. (But in a Prius, how could you tell?) Given the age of the car, the dealer's advice was to start saving for a new car. Reasonable advice,but they are in the business of selling new cars. And I really liked that car. Thought it over and decided to invest in a box of six bottles of Techron gas additive. By reputation, this will surely, but very slowly, remove upper cylinder carbon buildup. Figured it was worth a $70 gamble, even if I couldn't figure out how it could possibly get to the carbon on the oil control ring. Bought the box so that I was invested in seeing it through. By the third bottle, it was clearly working. By the time I finished the carton, oil consumption was down to about a quart per 1500 or so. Where it has stayed for the past 60K miles. I still put in a bottle of the stuff every now and again. Maybe excess oil consumption from carbon buildup on the rings is super-unusual. But in my case, chemical remove of the carbon buildup was what it needed to set it right. Take that for what it's worth.
@@bobh8783 Every tankful, for six straight tankfuls. I'd guess that works out to about a bottle every 400 miles (9 gallons or so, at say 45 mpg.) As time has passed, I use less and less of it. I suspect that whatever conditions led to that much upper cylinder carbon, they have changed. Anyway, now, maybe four times a year, just for good luck. I still have no clue why they carboned up in the first place. But watever it was, Techron got rid of the carbon buildup. It just works slowly.
@@uucfgreen3 Thanks. I’m trying this method on my next fill up! I was using Upper Cylinder Lubricant on every other fill up, but fuel system cleaner on every fill up for 6’times straight is worth a try!
Gee, never replaced my drain plug gasket washer on my 2007 Toyota Camry, no problem! But I never take it to a quick change oil outlet, I always do it myself.
I don't mind using aftermarket oil filters like the Wix for instance but I've had MAJOR problems with aftermarket thermostats. Either opening way too soon so you don't get any heat at all or not opening at all. My 351 Ford Windsor engine had an aftermarket stat without the steam hole in the top so it would open way too soon. The actual Ford one had it and the little water valve with it. And lo and behold it operated at the right temp. Always have to make sure that hold and it's little valve are at the top with vertical mounted stats. So I always make sure I use stats from the dealer now. I also like to use the same brand of spark plugs that came with the vehicle. Just had better luck that way!
I appreciate the videos on this ‘07 Rav as this year/make/model is probably what we’ll get. Hopefully I’ll get back to work soon and we will be able to continue saving for an SUV for my wife. It’s good to see which engine to stay away from. BTW I’m not a mechanic or play one one TH-cam....(Oops that came out wrong...).
My daughter's 2005 Camry with 206k miles with this engine burns about a quart every 500 miles. It's crazy because it still runs awesome. I think we will live with it until it gives out but I have a friend with a RAV4 and this engine and his has burned about a quart every 300 miles for the last 150k miles and he's up to over 300k now and still going, cats are still fine with no check engine light or anything. I think for my daughter's car I will try some engine flushes to see if I can maybe cut the consumption down to a quart every 1,000 and if I can do that I will be happy.
Drain plug all the way in or out reminds me of milling machine - never leave the head close to trammed; either tram it in or leave it way out, so it's obvious. Nice fix; wouldn't have expected any less of you =)
@@WatchWesWork Ya I actually never worked in a machine shop; electrician by trade. I think those practices help me not to forget haha. For instance, I drained the oil on my F250 last night, but it was late so I didn't replace the filter or fill the oil. So I actually put a post it note on the driver's window "no oil, don't start" - maybe I'm trying to offset sometimers creeping up on me lmao
400 miles to burn a quart?....Back in the dark ages, when I was broke and in college, I had a car that got 40 miles to the quart. I double stacked an oil filter gasket ONCE. I was lucky that I always look under the car when I start the car to fill up the filter.
The plastic push clips for the plastic skid guard if there is a good mount surface behind the clips i always put Nutserts in for customers and put some small bolts in so the customers dont have the issue if them falling down i had a toyota prius show up the plastic skid guard slips let go but one and it got dragged then folded up and got jammed in the back of the rim and was making a horrible noise the customer thought they broke a suspension component on how loud it was @7:29 @Watch Wes Work
FYI: The Joplin, Missouri Toyota Dealership quoted me $5,064.00 for the repair if there were no other issues involved.. The Toyota HQ in Torrance, CA said the car (2008 Scion XB) was beyond the warranty and would not help with the repair either. I am guessing I could buy a whole new engine for way less than that..
My 6.0 Silverado 325k original miles burns the absolute crap out of oil … switched to rotella 15/40 and solved most of the problems still a quart or so every couple hundred miles and yes it’ll still smoke any 5.3
You should cut open a Napa Gold filter and compare the number of pleats with OEM. The ones I've checked for my Cummins have less than half the filter media of Fleetguard.
well that dura lube is working for me i talk to a car racer he said when temperature get warmer do a flush and refil engine whit only dura lube sludge away i bet this will work i will keep you inform...engine compression is good alot of power will see..only reason those oil control ring get plug is because people poor quality oil and to many mille betwen oil change..of corse those hole are to small on the piston if you dont give the chance of the oil to sluge then you avoid the problem...
You can reuse the copper oil plug seal, you just need to anneal it with a blowtorch, or even a powerful lighter. That'll soften it up and make it more pliable so it seals properly...
I use a fumimoto oil drain valve, and a Mobil 1 filter on my tacoma. I also have a full steel skidplate so the valve makes oil changes super easy. the filter needs to be drained, so I use a small tube attached to the drain tube to drain the filter housing.
Wow nice work on replacing Thoes pistons. I just watched your other two videos on the replacement. Really did not seem all that bad to pull the engine. I hear a lot of car componys had the oil consumption issue. I have a 09 Honda Accord 2.4 witch I received a recall on. Of corse I was just outside the mileage to qualify for it. It now has 188k miles and is not too bad. Maybe 3/4 qt every 6000 miles.
Might be good to remember that modern vehicles, which this is, are designed with looser tolerances. Which means better fuel economy and longer engine life and longer times/miles between oil changes as there's less friction on cold starts etc.; that means they usually consume about a quart of oil in a normal year.
Lol. That’s completely opposite of what I’ve heard. I was taught that the newer engines are designed with much tighter tolerances compared to engines prior to the year 2000.
@@Zach-ix3ob ... A modern engine will burn about a quart a year; through blow-by etc. And older engine is designed to prevent nearly any oil loss. Tolerance means different things. Modern vehicles have very little divergence between parts, ie high tolerance. While also having greater space between moving parts, also tolerance. So bearings have both tolerance types close, The ring spacings of the pistons having tiny differences between each other high tolerance, but letting more blow-by to greatly reduce cold engine wear a lower tolerance . So you tolerate more space, more looseness, but with more exacting performance. You expect every engine to have near exact numbers; while letting those numbers be greater than old engines ever allowed.
Serious great job. I have camry 07 V4 Made in Kentucky, I add 1qt between oil changes. The problem is when I start the car there's clould of smoke comes out, after few seconds everything is normal. What I think doesn't consumpt or burn the oil but I think the valve seals are bad or they became hardened so the oil leaks inside overnight. So had your car have that problem, and what were the condation of old valve seals in RAV4?
I don't see any issue with the suspension. I could check the toe, but usually the alignment doesn't change unless something is worn out. No vibration in the shaft, but it was noisy.
The best way to get good filters is in bulk on Rock Auto. I got a case of I believe 8 or 10 AC Delco oil filters for my Grand Prix for what came out to be $3-$4 apiece. Much better than the nearly $10 that the parts stores will charge you.
FWIW. I rigged up a tester with a pump and a gauge. It was a hydraulic pump. I used an external filter mount and lines. I tried dozens of different brand screw on filters. Looking at pressure loss only. Fram... is absolute garbage please avoid all the Fram lines of filters. None helped in any way. They flow like shit. The best flowing filter, was the supertec from Walmart. I was blown away. Now I decided to run a spoonful of dirt, with a spoon full of fine grit sand. I wanna say it was 600 grit? (Yes u can order grit sand) I can't remember. I ordered it off ebay so who knows lol anyways they all filtered roughly the same. Basically the Mason jar had nothing in it post filter and there was not much pressure loss despite the amount of debris I sent into the filter. But the idea was to see if any oil was going thru the relief, giving me my readings. Supertec did the same as mobile filters and wix filters. I didn't know how to do sludge any other way. So I instead scrapped a ton of sludge off an old Ford engine I had setting outside. The same filters I just gunked up with sand and dirt got sludge sent thru. They all stopped all the sludge too. So I have been using supertec for years. Oh and it was 5w30 that I used for the test. As far as oil brands, we sent vials to a lab in Indianapolis, (this was 10yrs ago I don't remember the places name) this was on a racecar that seen alot of abuse. We found Rotella full synthetic showed the least amount of breakdown. Ironically it's the one we accidentally ran a few laps longer than the rest of the oil brands. So those are my recommendations. I'd be interested in seeing a pro do a real test on these filters and oil type for us consumers.
Had the same problem with 2007 RAV, there was a recall so the dealer did the repair no charge. The dealer also replaced valves and valve seats. The reason you should always use a Toyota filter with a Toyota engine is the Toyota filters have an anti-drainback feature that keeps oil in the head so it doesn't start dry.
If THE OEM filter has an anti-drain-back valve, the aftermarket filters will likewise have it unless someone uses a different aftermarket filter than the one specified.
For the oem toyota oil filter is cheaper then prime after market filter last the same amount of mileage and some filters are smaller then the oem toyota filter so a person is spending more for less filter
Just noticed on the invoice they sold you 2 “B0” pistons and 2 “C0” pistons. I know you mentioned there were three options. Wonder what those numbers relate to
oil consumption in Toyotas is well-known and understood. So if the owner paid for a physical correction in pistons, rings, etc.... how much is that versus oil cost for the remainder of the expected life of the car? If the car uses $300 in pil every year for the next 5 yearsm how does that compare to the cost of the garage to replace pistons and/or rings, etc. ? Oil is cheap to buy and funnel in, but garage service and replacement parts can be costly and the vehicle will only be of value a certain number of years...
Good follow up Wes, 200,000+ and is she's ready for another 200,000 or does she get a newer vehicle when she finish her master's. I would also look at all the front end bushings, not just the struts. Does the SES light come on when you drive it with the driveshaft disconnected? My 2008 CRV is over 155,000, no oil consumption between 5,000 mile Mobil ! oil changes What's with the tractor, you farming now🌽🌽🌽?
When we sell our old house we can look for a new car. I can't swing it right now. The computer sets several lights with the shaft out, but it doesn't really hurt anything. It's 99.9999% a front wheel drive car anyway.
Just bought a used 2.4l 09 vibe for my daughter before learning about the consumption issue. It has 161000 miles. I immediately changed it with fresh synthetic. Based on my unofficial test, I think it's burning about 1 qt every 1000 miles. I just changed the PCV valve and will likely change it with the new Valvoline clean and Restore, after about 5000 miles. It may take a while before we get there but will just add until we do. May even soak the spark plugs holes with some sea foam before the oil change. Also, I've heard that the stuff works so well that it can release alot of grime into the oil filter.... So may want to swap the filter again after about 500 miles
There’s people on TH-cam pouring Seafoam inside their engine and and soaking the piston heads. But the correct fix is to replace the piston heads with the repair kit
@@bobh8783 Right. I did a piston soak using Berryman B-12 and it improved my oil burn to 1,000 miles per quart. I'm still debating what to do next. Luckily, I work from home and it's not my primary transportation. 🍀
One way I prevent autopilot mistakes with oil gaskets is I always clean the sealing surface. If I scrub off the sealing surfaces, there's no way to double gasket.
I started putting white Permatex thread sealer on the outer threads of my drain plug. It has a metal spring washer (not a split washer). Seems to work good.
@Jay C Teflon tape hates me, so I let it go its way and I go mine. Didn't even use any on the fittings for my new Chineseum Harbor Freight air compressor and seems to be working fine. Almost got out the Permatex out, then decided to only use it if I had a problem there.
Ok I’m figuring according to what you paid I would pay about $750 for parts. How many hours should it take for my mechanic to do the job? I work at a place where we have a full repair shop and the manager let’s the techs use the shop in the weekends to do side work.
What was the total cost of replacing the Pistons and rings? I have a 2.4 also and it also consumes at least a quart every 5 to 6 hundred miles or so. Other than that, the car runs perfectly, No check engine light, just passed smog no problems. No leaks anywhere at all. I changed the clutch about 10k miles ago myself. Thanks.
Greetings from Ontario, Canada. I have a 2007 Rav4(used vehicle) having the oil burning issue and the stupid first owner didn't fix it on time. Now I realize why he was so hasty to sell it to me. anyway it is what it is. I went to the dealer today and got the price quote to fix it. Here it goes: Parts: $2,769.56 ($1,858.30 if connecting rod is not needed) Labour: 16.3 hours- $2,119.00 Total: $4,888.56 + HST with connecting rod ($3,977.30 + HST) without connecting rod prices are in Canadian Dollar. That being said, I guess unless you personally are a well versed mechanic like him , you better of living with this issue. Top up the oil every week. Too expensive to fix for the age of the vehicle
very informative. very helpful and the list of parts used. My RV4 sway bar link also broke the same way- bad material spec? did you hone the cylinders?
Actually there may more of a difference between the low mark and the full mark on the dip-stick than just a quart. I have a 2009 RAV4 with the 2.5 AR-FE engine and the owner's manual indicates the difference between the low oil mark and the full mark on the dip-stick is approximately 1.6 quarts. Whether the 2.4 AZ engine is the same or not, I don't know. If it is it would seem that you may have used about a quart in 6500 miles which is still good. I change mine every 5k miles usually using Supertech 0W-20 full synthetic with either a K&N filter or OEM Toyota filter.
Hey I’m looking at a 2006 Toyota camry the car was made in Japan with the 2.4 with 116,000 miles on it what is your opinion on this car using oil I guess my question is the engines made in Japan having the problem I can’t find anything out on you tube thanks
If you only replaced the rings without drilling larger oil passageway holes in the piston, it will just happen again once the oil passage holes get carbonized.
HI WES I HAVE A 1994 TOYOTA 180,000 MI AND MY QUESTION IS THAT AT CERTAI TIMES I HAVE TO ADD COOLANT I REPLACED RADS A COUPLE OF TIMES AND HAVE DONE EXTENSIVE WORK ON IT IT DOES RUN A LITTLE ROUGH BUT WHEN IT WARMS UP IT RUNS GOOD WHAT DO YOU THIG THE ISUE IS THAT I HAVE TO REPLACE COOLANT NOT A LOT BUT AT LEAST A PINT
I also rebuilt my car's engine 2Az (camry 2009) and also replaced all the bearings (camshaft 2 pieces, all crankshaft bearings, thrust washers, rod bearings) and all valve stem seals . It costs me alot because I had to ship all these OEM parts from the USA to Iraq. Now I reach 800 after rebuilding. It is all OK but I hear a hissing sound when it's reach to operation temperature.
Hi Wes, I just bought a 2017 certified used Toyota Rav4 about three months ago, I took it to the dealer last week for an oil change, the service advisor told me the oil only gets changed every 10k miles now days, does that sound right? It was a leased vehicle and sold to the dealer I bought it from, strangely he printed out the previous service records and the water pump and brakes were done, y at 23k miles would that need to be done? Thnx for the video and all the help u can provide, enjoy all of them, u r fantastic!
Hey Wes, would you do this repair for a customer? I have an 07 rav4 in clean condition but just realized after 2200 miles i lost about 2 quarts of oil...... i dont want to get rid of it and was thinking about having it repaired. Either way, how much should I expect to pay to have it fully repaired? Thanks again for all of your helpful videos.
Wes, you made a comment about good practises & I couldn’t help notice that you then spun on new oil filter without filling it first. Do you just do that on turbo engines or is it not part of your protocol? It’s a must in the H.D, engine industry. BTW that new 2 piece oil ring has a marcel style expander & the tips should face towards crown.
By good/best practice he really means habitual patterns that won't result in a catastrophic failure at some point. Being interrupted, talking to people etc can interrupt your flow and make you forget your place. Filling the oil filter would only be possible on certain engines. The majority of passenger vehicles have the filter at some kind of angle, or even fully inverted. If your owners manual suggests it, then go ahead, otherwise I have never seen a mechanic do it on a passenger car.
I found someone here in South Carolina and they won't do what you did with your wife's Rave 4. They rather change the whole motor with a rebuilt used one for around 2,800.00 and not counting for the motor. So I decided to spend 2,800.00 on motor oil until it runs out. I want to Thank You for answering my comment and by any chance I find a mechanic here in South Carolina of course he would have to be your double lol. Now for the 64,000 dollar question if we lived closer would you have done my Toyota Camry??? I'm originally from New York and I called my mechanic and he told me to put in my Toyota a quart of Lucas oil and 10W40 oil the next time I change my oil and to write down the mileage and see if I get better mileage with that oil. The last time I checked I did 177 miles and put in a quart and a half of 0W20. Any suggestions from you would be gratefully appreciated. Thank You.
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I made a mistake when checking the oil level. The car was already up on the two post lift which raises the front of the vehicle more than the rear. I believe this made the oil level look lower than it should have. It may have used a tiny bit of oil but my mistake makes it look worse than it really was. Sorry everyone! Rookie mistake!
Not a Big deal Wes.
You were good enough to bring us along for this video.
Cannot complain to much about fine details.
Anyway we want to be seen as like your video,s so you will make more, LOL.
Always a Thumbs Up from those who take the time to comment on your video,s.
Thumbs Down only from those who don,t bother to get involved.
Also good to see you have a man size workshop now.
Regards Peter.
So how is the consumption a year later? Just wondering if i should buy a Scion xb. And do you know which year of this engine they fixed the problem? Or is this something everyone has to deal with?
Where is the first video? Thanks
Do you think maybe you are losing a small amount of oil from valve stem seals? 🤔
@@HankBaxter the highest problem years were 2007-09 and it was the 2az-fe engine. In 2010 Toyota switched the engine to the 2.5L 2ar-fe
Bought a 2009 Camry 175,000, from an elderly couple, original owners. Meticulously maintained at Toyota dealers in Wisconsin and California. Oil changed every 5,000 miles.
Dealer was kind enough to mention "no oil visible on dipstick" on a couple of receipts - how thoughtful of them.
Nonetheless it was consuming oil - had to do something, researched and found your channel. Thanks for taking the time to capture, edit, and post. I edit for a hobby and most don't realize how much works goes into that aspect.
I acquired repair kit and pistons from McGeorge Toyota at a substantially reduced price as compared to local Wisconsin dealers.
Your video inspired me and I did the same repair. Finished the job 700 miles ago.
Oil rings were plugged solid on original pistons. I even repaired the exhaust manifold heat shield in a similar fashion.
Oil level holding steady for now, engine is quieter once hot and idling.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Now an avid subscriber.
That's really cool!
Got a 2.4 Accord burns a quart of oil in 300 miles. Glad you got yours repaired.
You probably know this but anyways the worn shocks/struts will cause the tire to bounce when you hit a bump and causes tire wear. Also when you take 30 mph corners at 50 mph like many tend to do the tires wear and if there are bumps on the corner the tire is just skimming at times and if you brake on the corner the tire will try to lock up or abs kick in when you do not expect it. New tires will do a lot better if shocks are replaced before or when you do tires, once the tire starts to wear uneven it will not want to even out. Thanks for showing all you do, you are a wealth of knowledge and get me thinking to remember things I once knew and some things I would do myself.
After watching the 3 part series- I think
you did an exceptional job, always huge attention
to detail, you are conscientious of your work.
I don't know why I love this channel so much. Can't even put my finger on it. The excellent and patient knowledge is pacifiying. Thanks Wes
I agree, watching Wes is very relaxing.
I realize this is an older video, but my 2009 Camry with the 2.4l got a free "rebuild" from Toyota a little over a year ago. It had high oil consumption as well but I found a TH-cam video about a TSB concerning high oil consumption on certain 2.4Ls. My 09 was a few months and a few miles under the 10 year 150k limitation on the TSB. They even gave me a new Prius to use while they fixed it. When I asked about how long it might take, the service manager said, "Not long. Our guy that does them has done A LOT of them." 😄😄
I appreciate the videos Wes. I know they take a lot of extra time to do.
Thanks!
Outside tire wear indicates an improper camber adjustment if smooth wear ,or an excessive toe in,if you see scallops on the edge of the thread.
Generally the rear tires are worn on the inside,negative camber is often used on the rear end.
Worn shocks cause the worn tire patches that you showed here.
The tire is just bouncing on the road.
And it's a Uniroyal - tires which I really want to avoid on my car.
That washer on the oil plug is very important, not to prevent leaks, it won't leak with no washer, but will be hard to remove, I've seen several oil pans with striped threads due to replacing plug without washer.
Backing out of the shop, I noticed the sofa next to the lift. You da man! That's what I call being comfortable while working on the vehicles. Just slide it under, lay down or recline and go to work... lol.
Thanks for hitting the 3rd generation rav4 issues.
Hi Wes, I enjoy your channel. Regarding your Toyota @.4L Oil Consumption Repair. A little oil consumption isn't bad. If you don't get oil consumption, the top ring on the pistons isn't being lubrication. This will cause the rings to wear and loose compression.
So, I watched all three vids. And I guess the moral of this story is: If you maintain ur car, change the oil at or near the recommended time, then, even a design flaw might not ruin the engine. These vids are really helpful to us DIYers, for sure. Can I get an opinion on aftermarket wheel bearings? After market run $45, Moog run $150+. My thinking here, is go cheap, if it fails spectacularly, go big. My car, not the wife or daughter's.
Nice follow up look good and the amount it had used in 6500 miles isn't bad at all not using nearly 1 20th of a quarter most oem toyota oil filters are cheaper then most aftermarket brands I normaly only replace the sealing washers once every year most Toyotas have permanent Sealing washers attached to the drain plug but most removable sealing washers can be used 5 to 10 times before then stop sealing sometimes even more the 15 to 20 times glad to hear that the engine is doing so well after the repairs @Watch Wes Work
Wes, great video. I have the 2012 Camry AFRE 4 cyl and it's burning around 2qts every 1000 miles. I came across a new oil by Valvoline called Restore and Protect which claims after using for 4 complete changes, will clean the piston landings, rings, etc., to 100% like new. I'm going to try it for my next oil change as a last resort before doing a overhaul. I've changed my oil every 5k, Mobil 1, so we'll see.
Switched to VR&P last month in my ‘12 Prius. No oil consumption in mine but decided I’d rather not get there if I can help it. They do say it’ll take at least 4 oil changes to get the full benefit. A year or two from now it’ll be interesting to see how rigs like yours have responded. Will it work on vehicles consuming large volumes of oil?
Thanks for this Rav 4 series! I am about to inherit the same vehicle from my dad so useful info. Right now burning about 1 litre in between oil changes so not too bad yet. It has only about 130,000 km on the car so far.
I have found myself lapping the drain plug sealing washer on a fine stone and high grit sand paper to take any nicks out, and reusing it. No leaks, no issues, no waste takes 30 seconds
Lol too funny
Thanks for the follow-up. That was a complex repair.
Good video,again. I notice that my oil level varies considerably if parked on a hill. One observation I noticed was the torque on the oil filter. I tighten it way less than you did because it’s so difficult to break it free the next oil change. Seated plus about a 1/4 turn. Just my two cents. Hats off to you on another good video.
That pattern on the rear tires you showed is probably from worn out shock absorbers.
Then you get those uneven wear on your tires.
ells good work, keep it comming
That was some weird pattern on that rear tire.
@@erickieffer8440 worn hydraulics on the strut can do that as it allows the tire to bounce up and down more than it should which is what can cause the inconsistent wear pattern.
Baily would be so proud of you with that couch in the shop!!
Agree with NAPA Gold filter observations. Since WIX makes their filters, I compare WIX XP and NAPA Platinum and purchase two best priced filters.
more expensive doesn't mean it's better. Luckily we have someone on TH-cam that explains this in great detail.
Most manufacturers won't say that's a problem I had a paseo 330,000 miles 2.5 quarts a 1000 miles and running strong cheaper to put oil in than rebuild.
Do you ever watch The Car Care Nut channel? He specializes in Toyota/Lexus repair.
A common issue I have seen on any brand of filter I have purchased is the threads. I have found several filters with loose burrs or shavings of steel ready to fall off from when they cut the threads. Just something to check at each install. I'm pretty sure this caused an engine to lock up on my Suzuki, found a single steel shaving in a main bearing near the oil groove, the thing had 130,000+ miles on it.
Good video Wes.
The only thing i could add to this video is.
I always pre-fill Oil Filters on any engine i work on.
( even the inverted versions )
Just a habit i have got into since most of the motors i work on are motorcycles.
My partner owned the same car until one year ago. ( around 80,000 kms / 50,000 miles )
The RAV 4 is a fairly decent car to own.
It,s a shame the pistons had a manufacture fault.
Other than that a great car to own.
Thanks for bringing us along.
Love how you make your video,s ( always with an open mind )
Peter.
I typically do on larger filters on Diesel engines that can hold 2 to 4 liters of oil. But I skip it on these little rigs.
@@WatchWesWork
Yes i know.
It does seem to be a dig at you to a small point.
I guess i am like most who watch TH-cam we always manage to find something wrong with every video we watch, LOL.
No, all good.
Just a point that came up.
Nothing personal ( i know you understand )
Regards Peter.
6500 miles on that oil on a repaired engine? Do you want it to burn again?
For copper washers, I just heat them red hot, shock in water (anneal) and reuse. The copper work hardens when you torque the washer but annealing makes it soft again.
I've just been using the same one for 17 years on my Frontier. No drips yet.
My understanding is that Napa Gold filters are Wix made, and I agree on them being a good bet. My choice on drain plugs is to buy a Dorman replacement with the built in face o-ring to seal to the pan. I've had good luck doing that and much prefer that to replacing fiber or copper washers.
thanks for the follow-up and data.
I'm interested to see how the new cat holds up long term
Napa gold, platinum, etc are WIX oil filters with 1 number removed for Napa. That came from a WIX filter class I attended at a WIX distributor for my job. "AWSOME FILTERS"
Hey wes i ave a 2009 pontiac vibe 2.4 az engine i was burning one liter every 1000km (600 mille) got that stuff call sludge away from dura lube i am on my third treatment 1 liter per oil change and you no wat now one liter per oil change now 5000km not bad that stuff working really good it clean those hole from oil ring control ...
I heard guys at Honda use ATF instead of oil cleaning additive. They run them for on ATF a few hrs, a few rounds around the block, put some oil into spark plugs holes and let it sit for the whole night to free up the rings. Then they run the engine until warm, drain and install fresh oil and filter. Yeah, ever since 5w-20 appeared as recommended by CAFE, it's nothing but a circus with rings and oil consumption. I noticed in case of Honda if someone overdid the OCI over the 100%, it's most likely the engine will consume oil. Same with some VW. Oil is cheap enough to do much shorter intervals and avoid future problems. The new OCI recommendation for VW, BMW, Audi is now 30k km using their Long Life lubricant - I'm somewhat sceptical. I remember when Benz tried some 20k oil change intervals experiment and engines were seizing up and they changed quite a few on warranty.
LiquiMolly also sell some engine flush additive.
Our issue wound up being the dealership was putting 5w-30 in instead of 0w-20. It would burn the heavier weight oil. Run great on the 0w-20.
Makes no sense
You should fill the filter with oil before screwing it in so it doesn't create a lag where the engine is low on oil when you first start it up.
Does this really matter on a small motor like this?
@@_chipchip Doesn't matter. If it gives you peace of mind though, go for it.
I would like to tell my Toyota excess oil consumption story, because it might give people something to try short of the proper rebuild that you did.
In a nutshell: Six bottles of Techron gas additive resolved an excess oil consumption problem in my 2005 Prius. Said problem being due, ultimately, to stuck piston rings due to extreme upper-cylinder carbon buildup.
That happened around 140K miles. We're now at 200K. With normal oil consumption.
Full story: I live in Virginia. My 2005 Prius began to burn excess oil around 130K miles. By 140K, it had gone from one quart between changes to one quart every 500. Seemed too quick to be from wear-and-tear, but there was clearly a lot of blow-by as the oil absolutely stank of exhaust.
Dealer put in a bore scope and said "there's so much carbon buildup that the rings no longer contact the cylinder walls." Carbon buildup was no surprise. Car pinged pretty badly during mild acceleration. I ignored it because I didn't notice any loss of power. (But in a Prius, how could you tell?)
Given the age of the car, the dealer's advice was to start saving for a new car. Reasonable advice,but they are in the business of selling new cars. And I really liked that car.
Thought it over and decided to invest in a box of six bottles of Techron gas additive. By reputation, this will surely, but very slowly, remove upper cylinder carbon buildup. Figured it was worth a $70 gamble, even if I couldn't figure out how it could possibly get to the carbon on the oil control ring. Bought the box so that I was invested in seeing it through.
By the third bottle, it was clearly working. By the time I finished the carton, oil consumption was down to about a quart per 1500 or so. Where it has stayed for the past 60K miles. I still put in a bottle of the stuff every now and again.
Maybe excess oil consumption from carbon buildup on the rings is super-unusual. But in my case, chemical remove of the carbon buildup was what it needed to set it right. Take that for what it's worth.
How often were you using the gas additives Techron? Thanks
@@bobh8783 Every tankful, for six straight tankfuls. I'd guess that works out to about a bottle every 400 miles (9 gallons or so, at say 45 mpg.) As time has passed, I use less and less of it. I suspect that whatever conditions led to that much upper cylinder carbon, they have changed. Anyway, now, maybe four times a year, just for good luck. I still have no clue why they carboned up in the first place. But watever it was, Techron got rid of the carbon buildup. It just works slowly.
@@uucfgreen3 Thanks. I’m trying this method on my next fill up! I was using Upper Cylinder Lubricant on every other fill up, but fuel system cleaner on every fill up for 6’times straight is worth a try!
Gee, never replaced my drain plug gasket washer on my 2007 Toyota Camry, no problem! But I never take it to a quick change oil outlet, I always do it myself.
I don't mind using aftermarket oil filters like the Wix for instance but I've had MAJOR problems with aftermarket thermostats. Either opening way too soon so you don't get any heat at all or not opening at all. My 351 Ford Windsor engine had an aftermarket stat without the steam hole in the top so it would open way too soon. The actual Ford one had it and the little water valve with it. And lo and behold it operated at the right temp. Always have to make sure that hold and it's little valve are at the top with vertical mounted stats. So I always make sure I use stats from the dealer now. I also like to use the same brand of spark plugs that came with the vehicle. Just had better luck that way!
At toyota we replaced oil plug seal EVERY oil change. But i agree on filters cheap=cheap internals.
I appreciate the videos on this ‘07 Rav as this year/make/model is probably what we’ll get.
Hopefully I’ll get back to work soon and we will be able to continue saving for an SUV for my wife. It’s good to see which engine to stay away from.
BTW I’m not a mechanic or play one one TH-cam....(Oops that came out wrong...).
These are not "bad" engines. But some of them did burn oil. Many were fixed by Toyota under warranty. This one did not burn oil until 175,000 miles.
I expect they have corrected that issue, (more to come I am sure).
My daughter's 2005 Camry with 206k miles with this engine burns about a quart every 500 miles. It's crazy because it still runs awesome. I think we will live with it until it gives out but I have a friend with a RAV4 and this engine and his has burned about a quart every 300 miles for the last 150k miles and he's up to over 300k now and still going, cats are still fine with no check engine light or anything. I think for my daughter's car I will try some engine flushes to see if I can maybe cut the consumption down to a quart every 1,000 and if I can do that I will be happy.
@3:25
The 1999 Toyota Solara workshop manual I have states that the gasket around the oil-drain plug is a non-reusable part.
Drain plug all the way in or out reminds me of milling machine - never leave the head close to trammed; either tram it in or leave it way out, so it's obvious. Nice fix; wouldn't have expected any less of you =)
Yeah, it's a different mindset when you work with other people. It's easy to be sloppy when you work alone!
@@WatchWesWork Ya I actually never worked in a machine shop; electrician by trade. I think those practices help me not to forget haha. For instance, I drained the oil on my F250 last night, but it was late so I didn't replace the filter or fill the oil. So I actually put a post it note on the driver's window "no oil, don't start" - maybe I'm trying to offset sometimers creeping up on me lmao
@@nvlvdave
I thin you meant Alzheimer's
400 miles to burn a quart?....Back in the dark ages, when I was broke and in college, I had a car that got 40 miles to the quart.
I double stacked an oil filter gasket ONCE. I was lucky that I always look under the car when I start the car to fill up the filter.
The plastic push clips for the plastic skid guard if there is a good mount surface behind the clips i always put Nutserts in for customers and put some small bolts in so the customers dont have the issue if them falling down i had a toyota prius show up the plastic skid guard slips let go but one and it got dragged then folded up and got jammed in the back of the rim and was making a horrible noise the customer thought they broke a suspension component on how loud it was @7:29 @Watch Wes Work
FYI: The Joplin, Missouri Toyota Dealership quoted me $5,064.00 for the repair if there were no other issues involved.. The Toyota HQ in Torrance, CA said the car (2008 Scion XB) was beyond the warranty and would not help with the repair either. I am guessing I could buy a whole new engine for way less than that..
Find an independent shop. In my shop you'd pay half what you were quoted. 15 hours labor and less than $1000 in parts.
My 6.0 Silverado 325k original miles burns the absolute crap out of oil … switched to rotella 15/40 and solved most of the problems still a quart or so every couple hundred miles and yes it’ll still smoke any 5.3
Extended oil change intervals on Toyotas foul up the rings. 3k will keep those rings clear.
Really good and enjoyable series of vids. I have a Camry with the 2AZFE, one day I will probably need to do this job.
don't have this problem for now? how many miles the car has traveled,.
@@markozecevic4335 my 07 doesn't have oil problem but that probably since it only has 97k
Has your catalytic converters went bad yet
My oil consumption started around 100K
Thumbs up 👍 nice to have a 4 wheel drive to be able to drop a drive shaft and use two !
You should cut open a Napa Gold filter and compare the number of pleats with OEM. The ones I've checked for my Cummins have less than half the filter media of Fleetguard.
always clean off filter base and put what oil you can in new filter...always worked for me.....
My wife wants to know why you don't scream and cuss when fixing cars. I guess she figured that was part of the job.
youtube policy
It's like second nature to these people . I work for Lexus and they do this stuff every day.
You mean going Saiyan?
Tell her we all do it. Some out loud, and some inside 😂
well that dura lube is working for me i talk to a car racer he said when temperature get warmer do a flush and refil engine whit only dura lube sludge away i bet this will work i will keep you inform...engine compression is good alot of power will see..only reason those oil control ring get plug is because people poor quality oil and to many mille betwen oil change..of corse those hole are to small on the piston if you dont give the chance of the oil to sluge then you avoid the problem...
You can reuse the copper oil plug seal, you just need to anneal it with a blowtorch, or even a powerful lighter. That'll soften it up and make it more pliable so it seals properly...
I use a fumimoto oil drain valve, and a Mobil 1 filter on my tacoma. I also have a full steel skidplate so the valve makes oil changes super easy. the filter needs to be drained, so I use a small tube attached to the drain tube to drain the filter housing.
Wow nice work on replacing Thoes pistons. I just watched your other two videos on the replacement. Really did not seem all that bad to pull the engine. I hear a lot of car componys had the oil consumption issue. I have a 09 Honda Accord 2.4 witch I received a recall on. Of corse I was just outside the mileage to qualify for it. It now has 188k miles and is not too bad. Maybe 3/4 qt every 6000 miles.
Yeah all makers have gone to low tension piston rings to get reduced friction. But they don't scrape oil as well as the old style rings.
Always looks easy when someone else does it and they edit out the tough bits!
Hi Wes. Do you know what is the piston and rings part numbers you used?
Need to replace the pistons on my rav4. 2-3 quarts weekly!
Thanks
I do the same with wheels as far as completely on and tight or completely off. No mistakes that way.
It's a good habit.
Then walk round the vehicle afterwards and hand check them again.
I do the same with my beers...It's either closed and full or open and empty! Can't be too careful,
Great follow up. I like the new logo.
Thank you!
Might be good to remember that modern vehicles, which this is, are designed with looser tolerances. Which means better fuel economy and longer engine life and longer times/miles between oil changes as there's less friction on cold starts etc.; that means they usually consume about a quart of oil in a normal year.
Lol. That’s completely opposite of what I’ve heard. I was taught that the newer engines are designed with much tighter tolerances compared to engines prior to the year 2000.
@@Zach-ix3ob ... A modern engine will burn about a quart a year; through blow-by etc. And older engine is designed to prevent nearly any oil loss.
Tolerance means different things. Modern vehicles have very little divergence between parts, ie high tolerance. While also having greater space between moving parts, also tolerance. So bearings have both tolerance types close, The ring spacings of the pistons having tiny differences between each other high tolerance, but letting more blow-by to greatly reduce cold engine wear a lower tolerance .
So you tolerate more space, more looseness, but with more exacting performance. You expect every engine to have near exact numbers; while letting those numbers be greater than old engines ever allowed.
Serious great job. I have camry 07 V4 Made in Kentucky, I add 1qt between oil changes. The problem is when I start the car there's clould of smoke comes out, after few seconds everything is normal. What I think doesn't consumpt or burn the oil but I think the valve seals are bad or they became hardened so the oil leaks inside overnight. So had your car have that problem, and what were the condation of old valve seals in RAV4?
It is not a V4 engine.
you think you might have a bad shock / strut on that one corner to cause that tire wear? was that drive shaft vibrating at all with that much slop?
I don't see any issue with the suspension. I could check the toe, but usually the alignment doesn't change unless something is worn out. No vibration in the shaft, but it was noisy.
I use factory oil filter and oil well on warranty after that I use wix filters and factory oil .Iam not a big fan of changing oil types .
The best way to get good filters is in bulk on Rock Auto. I got a case of I believe 8 or 10 AC Delco oil filters for my Grand Prix for what came out to be $3-$4 apiece. Much better than the nearly $10 that the parts stores will charge you.
FWIW. I rigged up a tester with a pump and a gauge. It was a hydraulic pump. I used an external filter mount and lines. I tried dozens of different brand screw on filters. Looking at pressure loss only. Fram... is absolute garbage please avoid all the Fram lines of filters. None helped in any way. They flow like shit. The best flowing filter, was the supertec from Walmart. I was blown away. Now I decided to run a spoonful of dirt, with a spoon full of fine grit sand. I wanna say it was 600 grit? (Yes u can order grit sand) I can't remember. I ordered it off ebay so who knows lol anyways they all filtered roughly the same. Basically the Mason jar had nothing in it post filter and there was not much pressure loss despite the amount of debris I sent into the filter. But the idea was to see if any oil was going thru the relief, giving me my readings. Supertec did the same as mobile filters and wix filters. I didn't know how to do sludge any other way. So I instead scrapped a ton of sludge off an old Ford engine I had setting outside. The same filters I just gunked up with sand and dirt got sludge sent thru. They all stopped all the sludge too. So I have been using supertec for years.
Oh and it was 5w30 that I used for the test.
As far as oil brands, we sent vials to a lab in Indianapolis, (this was 10yrs ago I don't remember the places name) this was on a racecar that seen alot of abuse. We found Rotella full synthetic showed the least amount of breakdown. Ironically it's the one we accidentally ran a few laps longer than the rest of the oil brands.
So those are my recommendations. I'd be interested in seeing a pro do a real test on these filters and oil type for us consumers.
Had the same problem with 2007 RAV, there was a recall so the dealer did the repair no charge. The dealer also replaced valves and valve seats. The reason you should always use a Toyota filter with a Toyota engine is the Toyota filters have an anti-drainback feature that keeps oil in the head so it doesn't start dry.
I don't know about other Toyota models, but on this engine the anti-drain back valve is in the block above the filter base.
If THE OEM filter has an anti-drain-back valve, the aftermarket filters will likewise have it unless someone uses a different aftermarket filter than the one specified.
For the oem toyota oil filter is cheaper then prime after market filter last the same amount of mileage and some filters are smaller then the oem toyota filter so a person is spending more for less filter
Hi, thank you for the video. Question, did you replace old pistons with same design or with re-designed pistons? Thank you!
Wes did you hone the cylinders when you installed pistons ?
Just noticed on the invoice they sold you 2 “B0” pistons and 2 “C0” pistons. I know you mentioned there were three options. Wonder what those numbers relate to
oil consumption in Toyotas is well-known and understood. So if the owner paid for a physical correction in pistons, rings, etc.... how much is that versus oil cost for the remainder of the expected life of the car? If the car uses $300 in pil every year for the next 5 yearsm how does that compare to the cost of the garage to replace pistons and/or rings, etc. ? Oil is cheap to buy and funnel in, but garage service and replacement parts can be costly and the vehicle will only be of value a certain number of years...
Good follow up Wes, 200,000+ and is she's ready for another 200,000 or does she get a newer vehicle when she finish her master's. I would also look at all the front end bushings, not just the struts. Does the SES light come on when you drive it with the driveshaft disconnected? My 2008 CRV is over 155,000, no oil consumption between 5,000 mile Mobil ! oil changes What's with the tractor, you farming now🌽🌽🌽?
When we sell our old house we can look for a new car. I can't swing it right now. The computer sets several lights with the shaft out, but it doesn't really hurt anything. It's 99.9999% a front wheel drive car anyway.
My Pontiac vibe is using 1 QT every 350 miles. It has 233,000 on it. It is a 2009. I just add as needed at still do regular oil changes.
Just bought a used 2.4l 09 vibe for my daughter before learning about the consumption issue. It has 161000 miles. I immediately changed it with fresh synthetic. Based on my unofficial test, I think it's burning about 1 qt every 1000 miles. I just changed the PCV valve and will likely change it with the new Valvoline clean and Restore, after about 5000 miles. It may take a while before we get there but will just add until we do. May even soak the spark plugs holes with some sea foam before the oil change. Also, I've heard that the stuff works so well that it can release alot of grime into the oil filter.... So may want to swap the filter again after about 500 miles
What viscosity oil do you recommend and oil change interval?
Hey Wes I have watched other people put oil in the filter.
Can you help me, where can I find te rebuild kit original?
Is there any realistic way to unclog the piston drain holes without replacing the pistons? 😔
There’s people on TH-cam pouring Seafoam inside their engine and and soaking the piston heads. But the correct fix is to replace the piston heads with the repair kit
@@bobh8783 Right. I did a piston soak using Berryman B-12 and it improved my oil burn to 1,000 miles per quart. I'm still debating what to do next. Luckily, I work from home and it's not my primary transportation. 🍀
One way I prevent autopilot mistakes with oil gaskets is I always clean the sealing surface. If I scrub off the sealing surfaces, there's no way to double gasket.
wes, did the engine sound quieter once you changed the parts?
I started putting white Permatex thread sealer on the outer threads of my drain plug. It has a metal spring washer (not a split washer). Seems to work good.
@Jay C Teflon tape hates me, so I let it go its way and I go mine. Didn't even use any on the fittings for my new Chineseum Harbor Freight air compressor and seems to be working fine. Almost got out the Permatex out, then decided to only use it if I had a problem there.
Some drain plugs have O rings, either in the thread or on the underside of the head.
Don't need to do those up super tight.
Ok I’m figuring according to what you paid I would pay about $750 for parts.
How many hours should it take for my mechanic to do the job? I work at a place where we have a full repair shop and the manager let’s the techs use the shop in the weekends to do side work.
So it's been a while since you posted this video..Is the wife still driving a front wheel drive Rav?
i like your videos and i like you too!! thankyou for sharing your knowledge. its obvious to me that you're a real beaut bloke!!
What was the total cost of replacing the Pistons and rings? I have a 2.4 also and it also consumes at least a quart every 5 to 6 hundred miles or so. Other than that, the car runs perfectly, No check engine light, just passed smog no problems. No leaks anywhere at all. I changed the clutch about 10k miles ago myself. Thanks.
Yiu get the cost??
Greetings from Ontario, Canada. I have a 2007 Rav4(used vehicle) having the oil burning issue and the stupid first owner didn't fix it on time. Now I realize why he was so hasty to sell it to me. anyway it is what it is. I went to the dealer today and got the price quote to fix it. Here it goes:
Parts: $2,769.56 ($1,858.30 if connecting rod is not needed)
Labour: 16.3 hours- $2,119.00
Total: $4,888.56 + HST with connecting rod
($3,977.30 + HST) without connecting rod
prices are in Canadian Dollar.
That being said, I guess unless you personally are a well versed mechanic like him , you better of living with this issue.
Top up the oil every week. Too expensive to fix for the age of the vehicle
very informative. very helpful and the list of parts used. My RV4 sway bar link also broke the same way- bad material spec? did you hone the cylinders?
He did not. Cylinders looked good. See video 1, I believe.
Actually there may more of a difference between the low mark and the full mark on the dip-stick than just a quart. I have a 2009 RAV4 with the 2.5 AR-FE engine and the owner's manual indicates the difference between the low oil mark and the full mark on the dip-stick is approximately 1.6 quarts. Whether the 2.4 AZ engine is the same or not, I don't know. If it is it would seem that you may have used about a quart in 6500 miles which is still good.
I change mine every 5k miles usually using Supertech 0W-20 full synthetic with either a K&N filter or OEM Toyota filter.
Cars vary so wildly between the low/high indicator.
Hey I’m looking at a 2006 Toyota camry the car was made in Japan with the 2.4 with 116,000 miles on it what is your opinion on this car using oil I guess my question is the engines made in Japan having the problem I can’t find anything out on you tube thanks
If you only replaced the rings without drilling larger oil passageway holes in the piston, it will just happen again once the oil passage holes get carbonized.
Glad all is well.
HI WES I HAVE A 1994 TOYOTA 180,000 MI AND MY QUESTION IS THAT AT CERTAI TIMES I HAVE TO ADD COOLANT I REPLACED RADS A COUPLE OF TIMES AND HAVE DONE EXTENSIVE WORK ON IT IT DOES RUN A LITTLE ROUGH BUT WHEN IT WARMS UP IT RUNS GOOD WHAT DO YOU THIG THE ISUE IS THAT I HAVE TO REPLACE COOLANT NOT A LOT BUT AT LEAST A PINT
I also rebuilt my car's engine 2Az (camry 2009) and also replaced all the bearings (camshaft 2 pieces, all crankshaft bearings, thrust washers, rod bearings) and all valve stem seals . It costs me alot because I had to ship all these OEM parts from the USA to Iraq. Now I reach 800 after rebuilding. It is all OK but I hear a hissing sound when it's reach to operation temperature.
Strange. Possibly a vacuum leak.
Hi Wes, I just bought a 2017 certified used Toyota Rav4 about three months ago, I took it to the dealer last week for an oil change, the service advisor told me the oil only gets changed every 10k miles now days, does that sound right? It was a leased vehicle and sold to the dealer I bought it from, strangely he printed out the previous service records and the water pump and brakes were done, y at 23k miles would that need to be done? Thnx for the video and all the help u can provide, enjoy all of them, u r fantastic!
10k is definitely pushing it. You might be ok. I’d do it every 5k. Check the oil level every month or 1k miles at the minimum.
What`s the nest best type of oil filter you can use on the Rav4 besides an OEM Toyota brand ?
Tire looks like a ply separation or really bad strut/shocks causing scalloping.
What would make a tire wear like that with good bearings and all?
Hey Wes, would you do this repair for a customer? I have an 07 rav4 in clean condition but just realized after 2200 miles i lost about 2 quarts of oil...... i dont want to get rid of it and was thinking about having it repaired. Either way, how much should I expect to pay to have it fully repaired? Thanks again for all of your helpful videos.
Wes, you made a comment about good practises & I couldn’t help notice that you then spun on new oil filter without filling it first. Do you just do that on turbo engines or is it not part of your protocol? It’s a must in the H.D, engine industry. BTW that new 2 piece oil ring has a marcel style expander & the tips should face towards crown.
By good/best practice he really means habitual patterns that won't result in a catastrophic failure at some point. Being interrupted, talking to people etc can interrupt your flow and make you forget your place.
Filling the oil filter would only be possible on certain engines. The majority of passenger vehicles have the filter at some kind of angle, or even fully inverted. If your owners manual suggests it, then go ahead, otherwise I have never seen a mechanic do it on a passenger car.
If you anneal a copper washer, it's 'good as new!' Just heat that baby up red hot!
I found someone here in South Carolina and they won't do what you did with your wife's Rave 4. They rather change the whole motor with a rebuilt used one for around 2,800.00 and not counting for the motor. So I decided to spend 2,800.00 on motor oil until it runs out. I want to Thank You for answering my comment and by any chance I find a mechanic here in South Carolina of course he would have to be your double lol. Now for the 64,000 dollar question if we lived closer would you have done my Toyota Camry??? I'm originally from New York and I called my mechanic and he told me to put in my Toyota a quart of Lucas oil and 10W40 oil the next time I change my oil and to write down the mileage and see if I get better mileage with that oil. The last time I checked I did 177 miles and put in a quart and a half of 0W20. Any suggestions from you would be gratefully appreciated. Thank You.
Yes I would do it. You could try Seafoam or something.