I tried watching someone else's engine teardown video. He started by removing the spark plugs. Three minutes later, he was STILL REMOVING SPARK PLUGS. I had to stop there, the video was 30minutes long. I APPRECIATE YOU!
Toyotas are generally reliable, but I've met a ton of Toyota owners with this mentality of: unless the car doesn't work, it doesn't require maintenance. Oil change intervals? What are those? Fluid flushes? But ___ is still working fine. Spark plugs? Engine still cranks so no need. Tire rotation? Yeah that's just a scam. They have to be the most neglected cars on the road and I avoid buying them.
you are right my father is example he never changed the fluids of the his toyota only the engine oil he believes is important. Now he owns Ram the mechanical failure is very significant and it's unreliable at all compared to Toyota that gets only oil
Depending on the year, these motors had a TSB for the oil control rings clogging, causing oil burning. That's likely what happened to this motor. Prior owner probably didn't ever check the oil.
I’ve seen this type of engine switch from ‘normal’ to ‘burning oil’ rapidly. Even if you check the oil every day and it’s fine, then one day it’ll drink a couple of litres of oil in a one or two hour drive.
@@dabigboom8140 Someone I know had a mid-2000s RAV4 and the oil was topped up before a two hour drive. Halfway through the drive (one hour) the oil pressure lamp came on, she pulled to the side of the road and filled it up again. Yet it drove for months with just a little higher than normal consumption. The local dealer would monitor the oil use but never believed that the oil consumption could switch on and off like that, even with new crankcase ventilation parts. In the end, the ECM went into the unintended acceleration mode once and she got rid of it after that. It wasn’t a floor mat or anything. I think that the diagnostic for the pedal is not fast enough and the remedial action that the software did was not adequate for avoiding low speed collisions. But my day job is actually writing ECM software.
I had an ‘03 Camry with this engine and I’m sure the previous owner didn’t give a rats ass about the car because it was absolutely awful on burning oil and it was leaking from everywhere.
@@dabigboom8140 Just put heavy oil like 15w40 or a good engine additive. I even used 20w50. It helped a lot! It really cant damage the old engine its already damaged
Brilliant work. Great Channel. No stupid music, just pure information given at speed. The 2.4 litre 2AZ has the same block and cooling system as the smaller 2.0 litre 1AZ, but with a longer stroke. 2AZ-FE burns more fuel so most problems are from excess heat in the pistons. Efforts to improve cooling occurred in 2007: the squirters were introduced to cool the pistons, the plastic water jacket block insert is intended to direct water flow to the upper piston sleeve to improve cooling around the combustion zone. Oil has to be changed regularly and a keen eye for the coolant level is needed.
I have this engine in a 2008 RAV4 and it was consuming oil which I noticed just before the warranty expired. My local Toyota dealer did an oil consumption test which it failed so they did a short block replacement at no cost to me. Still have the RAV4 and it's used every day.
Thank you for saving me from potentially making a big mistake. I was negotiating on an early 2000 Rav4. Seller might not be happy, but thanks to your video, I am!
@@rShadowFace vw audi? Lol, the vehicles are as shitty as the people who drive them. Every road rage incident i get in involves an idiot vw or audi driver.
On some vehicles transmission and engine replacement under 100k is proper maintenance. I've seen many a newer domestic at many a junkyards. Cars not even 7 years old, there is definitely a LACK OF QUALITY.
These engines are really junk. A friend gave his daughter the family Camry, owned since new and always properly serviced at the dealer they bought it from. With 90K on the clock she was off to college, it suffered a head gasket failure on the freeway from the absolutely brain dead no excuse head bolt issue, and by the the time the dash light came on the engine was destroyed. So many think Toyota’s are super reliable but many are incredibly poorly designed and can have hugely expensive problems at relatively low miles.
All this is correct. I hydro locked my 09 Scion tx, rebuilt motor i purchased was from a 05 Camry so head gasket blew in 6 months. Their warranty replacement gave me another Camry motor that blew head gasket again about 5 months. The third replacement, i forced them to helicoil coil before sending it, and that one survived many years
A trick i picked up for removing the adapter under the oil filter is a 3/8 in ratchet with no socket. Very similar to the concept of the head bolt removal in case anyone wants to reuse that part.
My dad sold a 94' Toyota pickup to a neighbor years ago. Within only 2 years he wrecked the truck, completely ran it to the ground. Engine was blown and the body was in pretty bad shape. Sad to see that little truck go, due to lack of proper maintenance. RIP little Yota. 1994 - 2013
Proper Timely Maintenance is the key! Like AMD says, don't go 10,000 miles between changes. For all or any make/model vehicle. OIL IS CHEAP! ENGINES ARE EXPENSIVE! Also, ANY engine that runs low on oil will not last long and could grenade itself. Oil and oil filter changes minimum of twice a year is cheap insurance. Take care of your vehicle and it will take care of you!
Unfortunately the vast majority of Toyota owners genuinely think nothing Toyota makes ever goes wrong. You see them always bashing other vehicles on TH-cam! Deluded fools.
@@test40323 really? you see no difference in free market economy and a communist dictatorship with no alternatives to pos Trabant? people choose Toyota for reliability not because they have no choice of what to get/afford(trabant). By your logic communism is good because millions lived under its rule.
Toyota said the main reason the plastic baffle in the water jacket was to reduce sound - specifically gurgling sounds. They were clearly concerned about engine noise. When I bought my 2004 RAV4 with this engine, 4 cylinder engines had a bad reputation of being obnoxiously loud. They wanted it to be less noisy than the competition. I respectfully disagree that the engine should be avoided. It lasted me 16 years without any engine problems. I had other minor problems with the car in its last couple of years, but nothing with the engine. I did regular oil changes. It never burned noticeable amounts of oil. I guess I had a good one. This engine has long been discontinued. Thank you for the video.
You are going to LOVE this channel, stupid, lazy people = th-cam.com/video/UNkhS-PrTOk/w-d-xo.html Some of the things in the videos on that channel i would simply not believe, unless it was on camera. :-))
@@grahamwinston3692 that still doesn't excuse not doing an oil change, oil is cheap and easy to change if you can't even do that you might just as well sell the car and go to work using the a bus or a bike.
You are spot on about the plastic crap impellers on the waterpumps for volkswagon. They sabotage their engines to last short term. Plastic impellers strip from knurled shaft and car overheats at 85000 miles and blows headgasket. Graf makes a metal version.
My brother‘s 2004 RAV4 has this engine. He’s a college student but he drives a lot. His engine runs amazing and doesn’t burn a single drop of oil between oil changes. While my truck was down for a while, he let me use it. It is the smoothest running engine I’ve ever seen. Plus, his RAV4 is a rare one because it has a 5 speed standard transmission. Still have yet to see another one like it. I think that car is going to last a really long time. Quickly approaching 200,000 miles
Is that a 5 speed manual or automatic, because 5 speed auto was not put on 2004 RAV4, unless someone swapped out the U140F for the 5-speed U151F, which is a very good idea.
The new piston rings came with the 2006 model year which caused the issue, no one seems to realize that in this whole thread. 04-05 models prior to that time were not affected.
I really appreciate sharing your abundant knowledge and experience of engines. I absolutely have zero knowledge on how machinery work in general, but your videos are very entertaining. Keep up the beautiful works!!
*My 2009 Camry with that same engine has 250k miles and still great, never changed the spark plugs, only had to change valve cover gaskets, water pump, steering pump hose*
Your engine teardown videos are always educational to see. And sprinkling a few digs at Volkswagen engines was a nice touch. These are your videos, and after all, you are allowed to have opinions on the subject.
Volkswagen engines last just as long if not longer. Vw are a blend of economy/performance oriented. If you buy the little non turbo VW economy engines they will last as long as any Toyota or Honda.
@@milliemone I’ve had the turbo engines (1.8T and 2.0 GDI) and got 200,000 miles out of each. Replaced the first car because my (now ex) wife dented it up on a fence and it started rusting. But I didn’t drive it full tilt that much and I changed the oil very regularly. Still driving the second one. My VWs have been pretty low maintenance. But I do think those engines are a bit fussy on the type of oil you use.
No 2.4 engines only 2.5 2018 engines and V6. Dont listen to this guy 😂there are 2.4's out there with over 400k miles you just have to change the oil on a scheduled basis.
Toyota shud have kept using engine from the late 90 Camry's. I had 265,000 on my used 97 Camry. Love ur videos w/toothbrush & wife's clothes.😂🤣 Sayn that, u are VERY knowledgable, interesting, & instructive. Maybe tackle prius Atkinson? I ALWAYS say, oil is the heart of the engine. Changed my camry every 3,000 miles & never blew oil ( unless it sat for a while & blow smoke at beginning). Very down to earth guy, plz keep makn videos! HAPPY NEW YEAR to u, ur wife, & ur listeners!. 🎉🇺🇸
I always check my oil and change my own oil. I never let my 04 Camry get bad. I haven't had any problems (other than a misfire on cylinder 1) with my Camry.
@@MetalPopka I'm the original owner of a 2005 with 89,000 miles in great shape. Always changed my oil myself, at 3,000 miles or less. No oil burning or coolant loss issues. I guess the way you look out for stripped head bolts is to look from underneath in the area under the intake where he showed where that insulation is located. Look for coolant leaking or pink dried gunk.
@@MetalPopka this reply is clearly a year too late but when the head bolts strip, the car will start spitting coolant and you’ll be able to smell gas in your coolant.
20:10. There is one thing you can do. Drain the oil and refill with kerosene. Run the engine for 10 minutes and drain the kerosene. Refill with oil. Run for 30 minutes and change the oil again. This is an old school fix but when you open up the engine, you'll be surprised how clean it is.
@@speedkar99 Obviously, the kerosene will drain out of the engine black. If you spill it, you can always use one of your wife's new white blouses to clean it up.
I have this engine on my 2007 RAV4 with 204k miles. It has been burning oil since around 60k miles. Lately, it burns a quart every 4-500 miles. A few weeks ago, I decided to to piston soaks with Seaform and Marvel Mystery Oil. I poured a quart of MMO in the crankcase (i drained down to 1 qt lower b4 added) and drove it for 30 minutes with high Rev. After that, I drained the oil and kept the oil drain plug open. I removed the spark plugs and soaked the pistons with Seafoam for 24 hours. During the soaked time, there was dark liquid drained out the oil plug hole so I knew the soak was really cleaning. I soaked another 12 hours with MMO. Afterwards, I removed all the left over MMO with a turkey baster and an extension hose. I also wiped it so there would be no more MMO on top of the pistons because I knew it would smoke badly if there was MMO on top of the pistons. I put back everything and poured in new oil and it smoked very little for 5 minutes. I took a drive and boy it felt very responsive. I only put in 100 miles and the oil level stayed at the same place. I will have to wait for a while to see if that cleared out the piston ring holes and helped reduce burning oil. I saw one of the guy on YT used Berryman B12 to soaked and it ended up caused a knocking on his 2azfe. I think the B12 is too strong.
Update: I was having a high hope on oil burning reduction but unfortunately it didn't make much of a difference. I put in 260 miles and it burned almost half a quartz. 😔
@@Montana270 It has been burning like that in the past few years so I am thinking the rings got stuck and the cylinders might be ok. If the cylinder walls were bad, then it would burn worst. I am going to continue add MMO to the crankcase and gas tank regularly and probably will do a pistons soak again later on (next oil change) with Seaform. The car is running great at 204k miles and never had any major issues except this burning oil. How much does your burn?
@@nld0947 I've got a 2018 Mazda CX-3. It has the 2.0 inline 4 with 34k miles on it now. I got it new. It burns about 1/3 of a quart between 5k mile oil changes, which I feel like is pretty normal for a modern engine with low friction rings. I have been really happy with the car in the 4 years of owning it; nothing but oil changes done. I use Techron after every oil change as well to try and help out the GDI system. I would definitely recommend a newer skyactiv Mazda whenever you need to get a new ride.
So these engines were pretty good if you changed the oil...right? I have never had an issue with any Toyota engine. My v8 Tundra has 21 000 kms and just had 3rd oil change done. I love the digs at VW....the Germans and plastic.
@@avrggamer69 Check out YT CHANNEL JUST ROLLED IN....The other day, a mechanic removed an oil pan and the oil was like jello. The interval was something crazy like 70 000nor 80 000 kms. People are just nuts
The current OCI for Long Life oil for VW, BMW is 30k km. I guess someone at the corporate level in Germany decided it is a good idea to increase sales of new cars and lower the used car market outside Germany. Car as kitchen appliance - low maintenance, low life expectancy but full of gadgets
Either lack of oil or too thin of an oil. I use a 5w 40 in mine with 200k miles for summer time, and a 10w 30 for winter. Never seemed to have an issue with oil consumption doing it that way.
5w-40 for warmer places is something what I use instead 5w-30. However, even German engines don't use the usual 5w-40, but more in 0w-40, 5w-30 grade. For engines 'requiring' 5(0)w-20, 0w-30 seems like good compromise.
lol i have 2 toyota 1 are vibe pontiac vibe with 1zzfe 360 000km and corolla 1zzfe 290 000 original tranny imposible to beat that i sell my old honda 210 000km k20z3 i have 2 rebuild tranny and alot of shit toyota are the best tranny are the best go check is review or the crappy r18 the only car of toyota is not relible are the punk ass shit brz with shitty flat earth engine sorry im french
Toyota early ones have piston ring problem but mid 2000 toyota fixed those already. Toyota tranny is no tranny change for life if i remember. The biggest problem with these engine is water pump failure.
@@Elaba_ 5K is the spec. I've done mine at 5k, 0w20 and no burning yet at 95K. I do a lot of city driving as well. But now that I've learned about the burning, I'm going to go to 3k(which is 6 months for me) and check the oil every fill up.
@@Manofcube I use Amsoil 0w20 Signature Series or TGMO. More importantly I have changed my driving style. I have experienced way too much engine troubles.
Another fantastic video, thanks. After watching many of your videos I find it absolutely incredible that the manufacturers make fundamental mistakes with either the design or specification of basically simple, but critical, components in their engines, which then lead to catastrophic failure. With the combined knowledge of the designers and engineers from all the car manufacturers it MUST be possible to create an engine that would be totally reliable and affordable, whilst delivering all the power, economy and refinement necessary for a mass produced car. I reckon speedkar could find real examples of every individual component in an engine, that clearly work totally reliably, so combining all these into a single engine would mean it was completely trouble free, subject to basic maintenance. So WHY don't manufacturers ever achieve that.
As a suggestion you should do a video on why the 1998 - 2002 Accords Transmission fails. Or why the GM 3.8l Power steering system is always messed up on every car I get into.
I drive a 2000 Camry with the 2.2 L that was unfairly known for sledging up. Not only does my Camry still have her original engine but that engine now has 452K miles on it. The biggest problem with these cars are that they were trouble free to a fault. Even when poorly-maintained they still reliably shuttle their owners around. When I bought my Camry (10/99) knew I was the epitome of the dumb college kid. I somehow allowed Toyota sales shark to convince me to buy a car I couldn't afford. By the time the new car Afterglow or off I realized I had done something stupid. After telling my dad of all the mean things the Toyota guy head down to me all my dad said was " Son that fancy new car better last you 200k just to break even". Being the stubborn Cubano I am I made sure the car would last me at least twice that so I took the advice of anyone who wanted to give it. The piece of advice that I credit for my high mileage but still running perfectly what's the advice given to me by an old Cuban guy it's Sears Auto in Pompano Square. He told me that oil is cheap but engines are expensive. When I asked him what he meant by that he showed me another customers Prevea van that was in for an oil change. He said the van head over 300K miles and we still running perfectly. He then directed me to the oil pan holding the old oil he just emptied out of it he dipped a paper towel into it and then another paper towel into some fresh oil he had. They both were almost The Identical color with one being slightly darker than the other. He said to never listen to Toyota when they tell you to change your oil every seven or 10K miles but to change it every 5 or 6 k and NO further! He also said that most mechanics use cheap paper oil filters into always insist on a premium one which usually only costs like $4 more. I change my oil every 5.5 k miles and my engine doesn't burn or leak any oil between changes. Now I work in auto finance and can honestly Drive almost any new car I want within reason but the reason I keep driving my Camry is cuz she represents the point in my life when I realized it was time to grow up even though I was kind of a wigger which would explain the body kits and spoilers she has sported over the years and have all been removed now. These people that buy like a Camry or a Corolla buy them because of their reputations for being Bulletproof but these people think they're literally Bulletproof. Especially by the 3rd or 4th boners.
great story, I enjoyed reading it. I had two camrys in the past and they just kept going, I lost each in property settlements. Now I buy a sacrificial audi before any relationship so I can keep my toyota.
You should be able to look up the part number on Toyota by looking at something specific like the piston. On their website they'll have an exploded diagram of all the parts in the area. It's great when you want to find a specific replacement for a bolt/screw/nut that you lost.
There is no "standard" but the conrod cap screws are typically 12 point (triple square, as opposed to the double hex speedkar points out for the head screws). 12mm fine pitch is a pretty common size but again there is not a standard that all engines follow.
I have a 2006 Camry that’s been in the family since new. 127k km’s. It has only been winter driven once. I thought it would last me many more years but I learned about the oil burning issue and the head bolt issue last year and now I’m not so sure. I always use synthetic oil and I change it once per year at about 5k km’s. it doesn’t use oil and runs well so I’m hopeful if I treat it well and check the fluids often I’ll be ok. I’m a bit freaked out about the head bolts issue because there’s nothing I can really do about that.
my grandfather has had his toyota 4runner since 2002 and has only ever changed the tires and the oil! its my grandparents daily driver and he takes great care of it.
I was lucky enough to have my engine serviced based off the service bulletin/extended warranty back in 2016. One thing that does concern me is that there was another video that inspected the new pistons and rings issued for service and they pointed out that it was not really redeisgned but just a direct replacement of the existing part. This means that it is bound to burn oil again? I am just going to hope it wont burn oil in the future. Still doing fine right now.
The new pistons are not different, you'd get the same effect cleaning the old oil rings. It just re-sets the engine back to the beginning point. If you change the oil on schedule you should be OK. For Toyota, it just kicked the can down the road so the engine now outlasts the body. The "revised" pistons are not really different (YT was car care nut).
Unless it fails for a reason not lack of maintenance. Manufacturers still make blunders and corners are cut to save money. As a full time tech 30 years i saw plenty. Maintenance is best way consumer can prevent failures.. That and avoiding crap brands, first year models, cars with poor reviews and reliability history
@@lutomson3496 The engine in the video actually does do as described even with proper maintenance. The oil ring gets stuck and the consumption jumps from a litre every once in a while to all of the oil in an hour. I’ve seen it. Checked the oil on the weekend, at the top. Wednesday, oil pressure light went on, no oil on the dipstick. Before that, checking the oil every few weeks was fine, and after that as well. But this engine decides it needs to go on a bender once in a while and drink all of the oil at once.
As an owner of a 2005 2AZ-FE 4-cyl with just over 200k miles, I can proudly say that the engine still purrs. I attribute its longevity to the fact that I swapped the factory oil at 1,000 miles with Mobil 1 fully synthetic and have used that ever since. I do all my own spill and fills. If I were to guess, the reason I don't have the oil burning problems described here is that Mobil1 fully synthetic does not gum up and retains viscosity much better than conventional oils as well as contains detergents that prevent the build up of sludge. In fact, it wouldn't surprise me if this engine had another 100k miles in it, but like speedkar says, the typical owner of one of these used them like an appliance. So using fully synthetic probably seems dumb until you total a Camry, but if you source all your spill and fill needs at your local Wally World, it is just smart.
@@speedkar99 yes I agree, mine sounds very agricultural lol but I had two FRS for many years and those sound like a mini tractor too so I'm very used to such noises 😄
You should take apart the 5sfe engine from the 95-01 camry. I've had 2 of them and one threw a rod due to weak connecting rod bolts. Apparently it's a notorious problem with those engines. People say they're reliable, yet the one I had had ZERO sludge or anything. It first started sounding like a valve tick which progressed to a light tapping sound around 2k rpm, then while driving on the highway, the oil pressure light came on and started knocking like crazy and it threw #2 rod which broke the front engine mount and oil filter. Yes it ripped the filter off. Crazy.
How many miles? I owned two 5s-fe one with 275k (started getting weak compression after 16 years of daily use/abuse) and another with 175k, best engine in my opinion. Then I bought a 2014 with a 2AR-FE as talked about in the video, didn't burn oil but the valve train wanted to launch itself out of the valve cover after every oil change and during every cold start. 5s-fe's were the best engines IMO and experience at least....
@@awaara24 I've had a 96 Camry with 60,000 miles and a 95 Camry with 110,000 miles. I didn't beat on them or anything but the car that threw a rod was the 96 camry.. The 95 started making the knocking sound so I was able to sell it before it took a crap on me.. Alot of people had said that these cars are reliable yet these engines just love to throw rods..
PCV valve is to take out the gases that are at the bottom of the engine that bypassed the piston rings. And return it to the combustion chamber to be burned. If this fails and is stuck closed, it will burn the oil because the gases are mixing with the oil. Its probably the top cause for engines to fail. When I work on cars I always check it for people and replace it and just charge them for the part because they are usually not hard to change.
So my oil light came on, i checked the oil level it was still well above the L mark, i checked the oil pump and it was fine and also changed the oil pressure sensor. The engine is toast now but what could have caused all that with plenty of oil in the system?
@@speedkar99 the only way i could check the oil passages would be to remove the head right? The oil looked fine minus the oil shavings in it now so i really don't know how it could have clogged
Had 2 of these engines fail on me. One spun bearing and one timing chain tensioner fail caused timing chain to burst out the valve cover. I avoided the v6 engine because of the rubber timing belt 🤦🏻♂️
@@speedkar99 yeah if you remember I messaged you about that car before it was tag teamed by a couple of 18 wheelers but I got that thing up to 300,000 miles no problem I just had to put oil in it every other week
@@pliedtka mine was about a quart every 2000 miles. So it wasn't that bad but I've heard of people that didn't change their oil a lot and there's a lot of sludge on the rings and those burnt oil like a quart every 500 miles
Even with all the jabs at Volkswagen (deserved or not), I have to commend you for your incredibly straightforward delivery and great advice. While I'm not in the market for a used Toyota (happily owning a 2.0 jetta seen previously dismantled in an older video), I am amazed at the raw amount of tips you give throughout; don't buy a car with one of these engines, if you did make sure you put oil in it and change the appropriate parts, if you're LOOKING at one right now look out for these faults, etc. you truly are a selfless Renaissance Man
Just chippin' in my 2.4 cents.. I have one with 200k miles in a 2005 Camry - I can safely say it doesn't burn any noticeable amount of oil. However, I am religious with the oil changes.
Excellent channel amigo! I follow you from Patagonia Argentina🇦🇷. It would be wonderful if you could analyze the 1ZZ-FE, I have it in my Corolla with no problems yet. In the USA I understand that it was a very used engine in the Matrix and in many other vehicles. Thank you so much and Happy New Year!!! 🎉🍾🙏🙌
Other then the occasional Toyota Water Pump, timing chain tensionner gasket and sometimes headgaskets when it leaks oil on the back of the engine, the 1zz-fe will last a long time in a Corolla or Matrix.. if you beat on 'em like you would do a B Series VTEC engine however, they tend to be relatively short lived.. 5w30 oil is a must too. Even if Toyota had back spec'ed them for 5w20, they chew thru the rod bearings with 5w20...
My son's 2003 Honda Accord LX with 170,000 miles he bought last year burns oil, maybe a quart every thousand miles. I think this engine has a similar problem to this one in that the piston rings get clogged. If it weren't for me he would have seized the engine by now. I make him check the oil regularly, he even carries a jug of oil with him in his car. Just get the Walmart stuff, I figure the rolling use of oil is almost equivalent to an oil change, but obviously we still change the oil and filter during the specified interval.
Bought one for my sister from an old lady. Immaculate and lady driven since new with good maintenance records and it burns like this as well. I think it's an inherent problem with these K23's just no one wants to admit it. It runs like a top so we just keep it full on oil.
Low oil on the 2.4 seems to be standard. I replaced one for low oil damage and now the customer 80k replacement is doing the same thing about 20k later. Also clients don’t check it so they will be calling me soon.
can you do a ford/mazda duratec engine? 1.4 SPJA is preffred but any duratec will work. i have a fiesta with 1.4 duratec engine and id love to see your analysis and learn more :)
I think a lot of this poor design piston ring stuff started because many governments mandated stricter emission requirements during cold start-up. They forced the companies to move the piston rings very close to the top of the piston head because that area was trapping unburned fuel. The rings were made thinner, piston ring grooves made narrower. Yes, even the oil control ring could not escape big brothers watchful eye; had to be designed thinner to the point that it could no longer do its job. Instead of lowering net emissions, they created the excessive oil burning problems with modern engines. They pollute less for the 1 minute cold start period, but pollute more for the entire time the car is being driven. And the car owners are stuck with the resultant repair bills. We have such smart people in government now!
@19:26 Another example of the damage dinosaur oil does to an engine. Extended performance high mileage full synthetic oil is the best IMO, especially for direct fuel injection engines (which I try to avoid along with anything turbo)
Dude, you're the man! That was awesome. My girl ran her 07 rav4 low on oil, and this is exactly what happened. My friend things maybe he can do a rod bearing from the bottom. Seems possible? Obviously not doing it right, but seems possible.
I'm on my second Scion xB with that engine and the first one did fail because of the issues with oil consumption and piston rings but I have a second when I'm trying to keep from blowing up and I'm curious what the best oil to use for longevity would be. I used Lucas oil stabilizer in the first one but apparently that wasn't enough...
Lucas is trash as it's too think and aerates, yes even the synthetic version. It only helps if your already having engine trouble as it closes up tolerances. Just keep your oil changed regularly and fill with a reputable full synthetic @ recommended viscosity.
@@jyearr6744 I only use recommended amsoil now and I wish I'd remembered that I'd put the Lucas in it before because if I just changed it to regular oil I'm sure it would have consumed the quart in less than 1200 miles and I would have got a new engine under warranty!
You Know I might actually start flying in an airplane again if you were the Lead Mechanic! One crash was enough for me. Thank you for yet another education. Go with the 6 cylinder aye aye. Thanks Bro!
these aluminum blocks do the have nicaseal cilinderwalls???(nickelplated??)i didn t see an cast iron sleeve for it.....and yes the 0w and 5w can clough up prity bad,the holes for the return is definitly a problem(1 or 2 service interval skips can make a diffrence then)...maybe an extra oilnozzel under the pistons can take the temperature down from the piston crow ,to prevent the oil burnig up in those holes????anyway just saying.....good content dude
Dang it! My daughter Scion xB. It's knocking. It was a oil eater. I thought maybe you can just drop the oil pan and boom there's the mains for a generic fix . you got a tear apart everything to get to the mains?
You just don't know how much I love you for this video and of this effing motor. I watch all of your teardowns and looked just a few days ago to see if you did this motor. I did see the 2AR‐FE teardown, but I currently have an '04 Camry with this motor.
Many Toyota engines wouldn't sludge to death if people changed oil every 3,000 miles. The 5,000 mile conventional oil change is BS in most Toyota engines. Sometimes you can't trust your own manual. 1.0mmX1.0mmX2.0mm piston ring packs are way more sensitive to this than the old 1.5x1.5x4.0 ring packs. Many engines like this would get rehoned, then people would drill holes in the oil ring groove to prevent future oil burning. This wasn't an option with the Nissan 2.5L, burning oil would destroy the precat, bits of the precat would get sucked back in during valve overlap, and the cylinder bores would be destroyed. An overbore and oversize pistons were the only fix, and most of those cars weren't worth it. 8:04 I was sure those were "Triple Square" after seeing them on German cars. One thing I hated about German cars was needing a set of those, allen keys, and torx bits as well as a set of metric wrenches. I tell people to buy Toyotas if they aren't car enthusiasts to avoid a lot of BS expense in auto repair and maintenance. If you buy a German car, you MUST know a reputable "All European specialty" repair shop with a good reputation. It will save you lots of money on maintenance and repair bills. 9:35 Lately many 4-cylinder engines have combined the balance shafts and oil pump. 14:28 If your car has one, remove, give it a shake, and listen to it make a clicking noise. If it doesn't, you need to replace it. Also, if your engine doesn't run that great, a PCV failure will make the engine behave like it has a vacuum leak. In many cars that would not idle properly, if you shook the PCV valve, it sounded like a soccer ball falling in mud. This test is far from perect. PCV valves have a spring in them and it can fatigue over time. That might make it open more than it should. 16:04 it ensures an even distributon of antifreeze around all cylinders. 20:19 You take the spark plugs out, pour in a bunch of Seafoam and let it sit for a while. You pump out the Seafoam, and hopefully it did some good. No promises.
Maybe it's simply the focal length of the lens used, but this engine appears very short in length, is it so ? On another note: Ford tried spraying oil under the pistons for the 5.0 V-8 of the Mustang but then stopped it, for what reason I do not know. Most likely, I'd say, their issue was oil burning....due to too much oil on the cylinder walls.
Except for the ones made in Japan. I got one 2008 Rav and guess what? The piston rings were made in Japan where they made micrometric errors and still not burning oil. It runs like a baby! 5w30 pemzoil high mileage syntetic..
The plastic/Fiber gasket on mine broke, clogged my pickup and smoked my bearings from lack of oil. I didn’t hear, see or feel a thing until the bearings we burnt.
This is probably not your style, but I would love if you took apart a Opel/Holden/Vauxhall/Chevrolet Vectra C 1.9 Diesel 150HP. I love the car and the engine (it's been really holding up), but I really wanna hear your opinion since I was thinking of giving it more power.
I’d the 1.9;turbo diesel and it was a flying machine my wife loved the traffic lights drag race I gave it away when it had over 185,000 miles on it and the engine was still running great I changed the oil twice a year and I think that’s what helped it, unfortunately everything else was starting to wear out but the engine was still performing well didn’t burn oil if I’d somewhere to work on replacing the power steering and the other bits that needed done I would have kept it, drive the 2.2 Toyota diesel now and it’s nowhere near as quick as the Vectra
@@johnmehaffey9953 Yes, it's got a really smooth power curve. Mine is currently on 185.000 miles but it's in mint condition (someone took good care of it). I really like the car and I'm gonna rock it 'till the wheels fall off :D
Poor VAG - but yeah I totally agree with the comments addressing their parts design. " The new Camry they redesigned it and actually made it worse..." I think very much the same applies to 2.4L CR-V, Element, Accord engines I use 0w-30 instead of 5(0)w-20 - seems like compromise between 2% less internal friction, tighter tolerances and a bit higher higher temps the oil can withstand.
I tried watching someone else's engine teardown video. He started by removing the spark plugs. Three minutes later, he was STILL REMOVING SPARK PLUGS. I had to stop there, the video was 30minutes long.
I APPRECIATE YOU!
Toyotas are generally reliable, but I've met a ton of Toyota owners with this mentality of: unless the car doesn't work, it doesn't require maintenance. Oil change intervals? What are those? Fluid flushes? But ___ is still working fine. Spark plugs? Engine still cranks so no need. Tire rotation? Yeah that's just a scam. They have to be the most neglected cars on the road and I avoid buying them.
😅😅
I know I’m always doing oil changes it feels like in my 2 4Runners every 5k. I don’t subscribe to the 10k oil changes.
@@JAMESWUERTELE 10k oil changes can be done but not if you live in a climate with extreme temperatures and/or your driving style is aggressive.
@@hadi8561 or if you drive a lot of short distances.
you are right my father is example he never changed the fluids of the his toyota only the engine oil he believes is important. Now he owns Ram the mechanical failure is very significant and it's unreliable at all compared to Toyota that gets only oil
Depending on the year, these motors had a TSB for the oil control rings clogging, causing oil burning. That's likely what happened to this motor. Prior owner probably didn't ever check the oil.
I’ve seen this type of engine switch from ‘normal’ to ‘burning oil’ rapidly. Even if you check the oil every day and it’s fine, then one day it’ll drink a couple of litres of oil in a one or two hour drive.
@@dale116dot7 i have a 2002 corolla that has that issue, working on getting the engine out to hopefully tear it down and fix it
@@dabigboom8140 Someone I know had a mid-2000s RAV4 and the oil was topped up before a two hour drive. Halfway through the drive (one hour) the oil pressure lamp came on, she pulled to the side of the road and filled it up again. Yet it drove for months with just a little higher than normal consumption. The local dealer would monitor the oil use but never believed that the oil consumption could switch on and off like that, even with new crankcase ventilation parts. In the end, the ECM went into the unintended acceleration mode once and she got rid of it after that. It wasn’t a floor mat or anything. I think that the diagnostic for the pedal is not fast enough and the remedial action that the software did was not adequate for avoiding low speed collisions. But my day job is actually writing ECM software.
I had an ‘03 Camry with this engine and I’m sure the previous owner didn’t give a rats ass about the car because it was absolutely awful on burning oil and it was leaking from everywhere.
@@dabigboom8140 Just put heavy oil like 15w40 or a good engine additive. I even used 20w50. It helped a lot! It really cant damage the old engine its already damaged
Brilliant work. Great Channel. No stupid music, just pure information given at speed. The 2.4 litre 2AZ has the same block and cooling system as the smaller 2.0 litre 1AZ, but with a longer stroke. 2AZ-FE burns more fuel so most problems are from excess heat in the pistons. Efforts to improve cooling occurred in 2007: the squirters were introduced to cool the pistons, the plastic water jacket block insert is intended to direct water flow to the upper piston sleeve to improve cooling around the combustion zone. Oil has to be changed regularly and a keen eye for the coolant level is needed.
I have this engine in a 2008 RAV4 and it was consuming oil which I noticed just before the warranty expired. My local Toyota dealer did an oil consumption test which it failed so they did a short block replacement at no cost to me. Still have the RAV4 and it's used every day.
Wow. A new short block
Respect to your Toyota dealer.
You are a rare Fortunate situation. I was adding a quart every 500 miles.
@@anthonysupplee858try a professional engine flush. I do 5k oil changes on my 2020, and 2021 4Runners.
garbage toyotas..
Thank you for saving me from potentially making a big mistake. I was negotiating on an early 2000 Rav4. Seller might not be happy, but thanks to your video, I am!
2000 has 1azfe not 2azfe
That plastic in the cooling jacket is to let the engine warm up faster, by reducing the water volume. Warming up quicker saves fuel.
I really wondered this when I saw it every time on this channel
Unlike Hondas
@@andersonrodriguez8258 but honda engines never die
Thank you. I was wondering what it was for.
Are you 100% sure? I have seen other people say to reduce the gurgling sounds
Ahhh, yes the lack of maintenance. Most modern engines regardless of manufacturer will last a very long time with proper maintenance.
would have to disagree, there are still companies who make a bunch of crap engines, regardless how you maintain them
BMW disagrees with Jeremy Murphy.
@@hedgehogthesonic3181 Audi, VW, Subaru, Nissan say hello
@@rShadowFace vw audi? Lol, the vehicles are as shitty as the people who drive them. Every road rage incident i get in involves an idiot vw or audi driver.
On some vehicles transmission and engine replacement under 100k is proper maintenance. I've seen many a newer domestic at many a junkyards. Cars not even 7 years old, there is definitely a LACK OF QUALITY.
These engines are really junk. A friend gave his daughter the family Camry, owned since new and always properly serviced at the dealer they bought it from. With 90K on the clock she was off to college, it suffered a head gasket failure on the freeway from the absolutely brain dead no excuse head bolt issue, and by the the time the dash light came on the engine was destroyed. So many think Toyota’s are super reliable but many are incredibly poorly designed and can have hugely expensive problems at relatively low miles.
All this is correct. I hydro locked my 09 Scion tx, rebuilt motor i purchased was from a 05 Camry so head gasket blew in 6 months. Their warranty replacement gave me another Camry motor that blew head gasket again about 5 months. The third replacement, i forced them to helicoil coil before sending it, and that one survived many years
A trick i picked up for removing the adapter under the oil filter is a 3/8 in ratchet with no socket. Very similar to the concept of the head bolt removal in case anyone wants to reuse that part.
Thanks dude. Going into one now, saved me some grief.
My dad sold a 94' Toyota pickup to a neighbor years ago. Within only 2 years he wrecked the truck, completely ran it to the ground. Engine was blown and the body was in pretty bad shape. Sad to see that little truck go, due to lack of proper maintenance. RIP little Yota. 1994 - 2013
Proper Timely Maintenance is the key! Like AMD says, don't go 10,000 miles between changes. For all or any make/model vehicle. OIL IS CHEAP! ENGINES ARE EXPENSIVE!
Also, ANY engine that runs low on oil will not last long and could grenade itself. Oil and oil filter changes minimum of twice a year is cheap insurance. Take care of your vehicle and it will take care of you!
Unlike Volkswagens, they explode even with proper maintenance.
Well said!!
Unfortunately the vast majority of Toyota owners genuinely think nothing Toyota makes ever goes wrong. You see them always bashing other vehicles on TH-cam! Deluded fools.
Yeah but they don't check their own oil. I have a brother with a Lexus like that
Despite the abuse on this particular engine, Toyota Camrys are one of the few I see frequently on the road from that era.
They sure are popular, but if you don't pay attention to the oil issue then things can go bad very quickly
@@speedkar99 , so true. Trabant was popular too!
@@test40323 really? you see no difference in free market economy and a communist dictatorship with no alternatives to pos Trabant? people choose Toyota for reliability not because they have no choice of what to get/afford(trabant). By your logic communism is good because millions lived under its rule.
Toyota said the main reason the plastic baffle in the water jacket was to reduce sound - specifically gurgling sounds. They were clearly concerned about engine noise. When I bought my 2004 RAV4 with this engine, 4 cylinder engines had a bad reputation of being obnoxiously loud. They wanted it to be less noisy than the competition. I respectfully disagree that the engine should be avoided. It lasted me 16 years without any engine problems. I had other minor problems with the car in its last couple of years, but nothing with the engine. I did regular oil changes. It never burned noticeable amounts of oil. I guess I had a good one. This engine has long been discontinued. Thank you for the video.
Ya, my 07 camry sounds like a damn deisel but its bulletproof
Nothing hurts more than seeing a good engine or car that's been destroyed by stupid people who neglect everything.
You are going to LOVE this channel, stupid, lazy people = th-cam.com/video/UNkhS-PrTOk/w-d-xo.html
Some of the things in the videos on that channel i would simply not believe, unless it was on camera. :-))
@@uhtred7860 Oh boy, thanks for sharing 😅.
@@uhtred7860 You bloody legend, cheers mate 😂😂
you mean liberals? JOKING (kinda)
@@grahamwinston3692 that still doesn't excuse not doing an oil change, oil is cheap and easy to change if you can't even do that you might just as well sell the car and go to work using the a bus or a bike.
You are spot on about the plastic crap impellers on the waterpumps for volkswagon. They sabotage their engines to last short term. Plastic impellers strip from knurled shaft and car overheats at 85000 miles and blows headgasket. Graf makes a metal version.
My brother‘s 2004 RAV4 has this engine. He’s a college student but he drives a lot. His engine runs amazing and doesn’t burn a single drop of oil between oil changes. While my truck was down for a while, he let me use it. It is the smoothest running engine I’ve ever seen. Plus, his RAV4 is a rare one because it has a 5 speed standard transmission. Still have yet to see another one like it. I think that car is going to last a really long time. Quickly approaching 200,000 miles
Is that a 5 speed manual or automatic, because 5 speed auto was not put on 2004 RAV4, unless someone swapped out the U140F for the 5-speed U151F, which is a very good idea.
The new piston rings came with the 2006 model year which caused the issue, no one seems to realize that in this whole thread. 04-05 models prior to that time were not affected.
I really appreciate sharing your abundant knowledge and experience of engines. I absolutely have zero knowledge on how machinery work in general, but your videos are very entertaining. Keep up the beautiful works!!
*My 2009 Camry with that same engine has 250k miles and still great, never changed the spark plugs, only had to change valve cover gaskets, water pump, steering pump hose*
You didn’t have to *bold* your comment though.
....spark plugs are long overdue....
You think having the original spark plugs is a good thing?
@@Thanson199415 because free speech
Speaking of lack of maintenance......lol
Your engine teardown videos are always educational to see. And sprinkling a few digs at Volkswagen engines was a nice touch. These are your videos, and after all, you are allowed to have opinions on the subject.
Thanks! Just trying to inject some humour at VW. Tbh its true
Volkswagen engines last just as long if not longer. Vw are a blend of economy/performance oriented. If you buy the little non turbo VW economy engines they will last as long as any Toyota or Honda.
@@milliemone I’ve had the turbo engines (1.8T and 2.0 GDI) and got 200,000 miles out of each. Replaced the first car because my (now ex) wife dented it up on a fence and it started rusting. But I didn’t drive it full tilt that much and I changed the oil very regularly. Still driving the second one. My VWs have been pretty low maintenance. But I do think those engines are a bit fussy on the type of oil you use.
The complexity of the balance system is impressive, too bad the average owner only knows how to add windshield washer fluid ~ if that much.
Some only know putting gas in it and drive……..
No 2.4 engines only 2.5 2018 engines and V6. Dont listen to this guy 😂there are 2.4's out there with over 400k miles you just have to change the oil on a scheduled basis.
Yeah but they shouldn't be burning this much oil! Keep it oiled and you'll be fine...
@@speedkar99 BMW and many other cars burn oil.
Toyota shud have kept using engine from the late 90 Camry's. I had 265,000 on my used 97 Camry. Love ur videos w/toothbrush & wife's clothes.😂🤣 Sayn that, u are VERY knowledgable, interesting, & instructive. Maybe tackle prius Atkinson? I ALWAYS say, oil is the heart of the engine. Changed my camry every 3,000 miles & never blew oil ( unless it sat for a while & blow smoke at beginning). Very down to earth guy, plz keep makn videos! HAPPY NEW YEAR to u, ur wife, & ur listeners!. 🎉🇺🇸
I always check my oil and change my own oil. I never let my 04 Camry get bad. I haven't had any problems (other than a misfire on cylinder 1) with my Camry.
As long as you keep it oiled it'll be fine. Keep an eye out for stripping headbolts though.
@@speedkar99 Question: How does one look out for stripping head bolts?
@@MetalPopka I'm the original owner of a 2005 with 89,000 miles in great shape. Always changed my oil myself, at 3,000 miles or less. No oil burning or coolant loss issues. I guess the way you look out for stripped head bolts is to look from underneath in the area under the intake where he showed where that insulation is located. Look for coolant leaking or pink dried gunk.
@@MetalPopka this reply is clearly a year too late but when the head bolts strip, the car will start spitting coolant and you’ll be able to smell gas in your coolant.
20:10. There is one thing you can do. Drain the oil and refill with kerosene. Run the engine for 10 minutes and drain the kerosene. Refill with oil. Run for 30 minutes and change the oil again. This is an old school fix but when you open up the engine, you'll be surprised how clean it is.
I will need to try this on the next car I scrap
@@speedkar99 Obviously, the kerosene will drain out of the engine black. If you spill it, you can always use one of your wife's new white blouses to clean it up.
I have this engine on my 2007 RAV4 with 204k miles. It has been burning oil since around 60k miles. Lately, it burns a quart every 4-500 miles. A few weeks ago, I decided to to piston soaks with Seaform and Marvel Mystery Oil. I poured a quart of MMO in the crankcase (i drained down to 1 qt lower b4 added) and drove it for 30 minutes with high Rev. After that, I drained the oil and kept the oil drain plug open. I removed the spark plugs and soaked the pistons with Seafoam for 24 hours. During the soaked time, there was dark liquid drained out the oil plug hole so I knew the soak was really cleaning. I soaked another 12 hours with MMO. Afterwards, I removed all the left over MMO with a turkey baster and an extension hose. I also wiped it so there would be no more MMO on top of the pistons because I knew it would smoke badly if there was MMO on top of the pistons. I put back everything and poured in new oil and it smoked very little for 5 minutes. I took a drive and boy it felt very responsive. I only put in 100 miles and the oil level stayed at the same place. I will have to wait for a while to see if that cleared out the piston ring holes and helped reduce burning oil. I saw one of the guy on YT used Berryman B12 to soaked and it ended up caused a knocking on his 2azfe. I think the B12 is too strong.
Keep us updated!
Update: I was having a high hope on oil burning reduction but unfortunately it didn't make much of a difference. I put in 260 miles and it burned almost half a quartz. 😔
@@nld0947 Damn! I wonder how much worse it will get over time?
@@Montana270 It has been burning like that in the past few years so I am thinking the rings got stuck and the cylinders might be ok. If the cylinder walls were bad, then it would burn worst. I am going to continue add MMO to the crankcase and gas tank regularly and probably will do a pistons soak again later on (next oil change) with Seaform. The car is running great at 204k miles and never had any major issues except this burning oil. How much does your burn?
@@nld0947 I've got a 2018 Mazda CX-3. It has the 2.0 inline 4 with 34k miles on it now. I got it new. It burns about 1/3 of a quart between 5k mile oil changes, which I feel like is pretty normal for a modern engine with low friction rings. I have been really happy with the car in the 4 years of owning it; nothing but oil changes done. I use Techron after every oil change as well to try and help out the GDI system. I would definitely recommend a newer skyactiv Mazda whenever you need to get a new ride.
Had this engine in a Previa. It was quiet, torquey and smooth even at 230 000 km. Oil changes every year or 10 000 km.
I have one in my tarago (Australia previa). Such a practical vehicle.
So these engines were pretty good if you changed the oil...right? I have never had an issue with any Toyota engine. My v8 Tundra has 21 000 kms and just had 3rd oil change done. I love the digs at VW....the Germans and plastic.
That usually the death of most of these engines lack of oil. owners never changed the oil or at least added more if it was low
@@avrggamer69 Check out YT CHANNEL JUST ROLLED IN....The other day, a mechanic removed an oil pan and the oil was like jello. The interval was something crazy like 70 000nor 80 000 kms. People are just nuts
The current OCI for Long Life oil for VW, BMW is 30k km. I guess someone at the corporate level in Germany decided it is a good idea to increase sales of new cars and lower the used car market outside Germany. Car as kitchen appliance - low maintenance, low life expectancy but full of gadgets
Either lack of oil or too thin of an oil. I use a 5w 40 in mine with 200k miles for summer time, and a 10w 30 for winter. Never seemed to have an issue with oil consumption doing it that way.
5w-40 for warmer places is something what I use instead 5w-30. However, even German engines don't use the usual 5w-40, but more in 0w-40, 5w-30 grade. For engines 'requiring' 5(0)w-20, 0w-30 seems like good compromise.
Would kill to see u tear down a 1MZ-FE. Love these videos man. Learn so much!
Yeah I'd love to get a 1mz to teardown
of these mid 2000 2.4 L engines, I'll take Honda K24 all day. Since it got VTEC, a timing chain that looks more robust, and pretty much trouble-free.
lol i have 2 toyota 1 are vibe pontiac vibe with 1zzfe 360 000km and corolla 1zzfe 290 000 original tranny imposible to beat that i sell my old honda 210 000km k20z3 i have 2 rebuild tranny and alot of shit toyota are the best tranny are the best go check is review or the crappy r18 the only car of toyota is not relible are the punk ass shit brz with shitty flat earth engine sorry im french
and if you want power buy a 2zz :) and have the (vtec sound and power
....with the MANUAL transmission!!!!
@@masontee8335 yes toyota transmission are very good tranny(transmisson) im note the best im french XD
Toyota early ones have piston ring problem but mid 2000 toyota fixed those already. Toyota tranny is no tranny change for life if i remember. The biggest problem with these engine is water pump failure.
Driving style and maintenance style are key to the longevity of an engine.
Agreed, but if there is a flaw eventually common issues will show up.
@@speedkar99 I wonder if these engines would have oil problems if the oil is changed every 5000 miles and with the right specifications.
@@Elaba_ I wonder the same, and the use of additives like Marvel Mystery oil, etc.
@@Elaba_ 5K is the spec. I've done mine at 5k, 0w20 and no burning yet at 95K. I do a lot of city driving as well. But now that I've learned about the burning, I'm going to go to 3k(which is 6 months for me) and check the oil every fill up.
@@Manofcube I use Amsoil 0w20 Signature Series or TGMO. More importantly I have changed my driving style. I have experienced way too much engine troubles.
Another fantastic video, thanks.
After watching many of your videos I find it absolutely incredible that the manufacturers make fundamental mistakes with either the design or specification of basically simple, but critical, components in their engines, which then lead to catastrophic failure.
With the combined knowledge of the designers and engineers from all the car manufacturers it MUST be possible to create an engine that would be totally reliable and affordable, whilst delivering all the power, economy and refinement necessary for a mass produced car. I reckon speedkar could find real examples of every individual component in an engine, that clearly work totally reliably, so combining all these into a single engine would mean it was completely trouble free, subject to basic maintenance. So WHY don't manufacturers ever achieve that.
As a suggestion you should do a video on why the 1998 - 2002 Accords Transmission fails. Or why the GM 3.8l Power steering system is always messed up on every car I get into.
I always love the subtle digs at Junkswagen.
Lol. It's funny but it's true
I drive a 2000 Camry with the 2.2 L that was unfairly known for sledging up. Not only does my Camry still have her original engine but that engine now has 452K miles on it. The biggest problem with these cars are that they were trouble free to a fault. Even when poorly-maintained they still reliably shuttle their owners around. When I bought my Camry (10/99) knew I was the epitome of the dumb college kid. I somehow allowed Toyota sales shark to convince me to buy a car I couldn't afford. By the time the new car Afterglow or off I realized I had done something stupid. After telling my dad of all the mean things the Toyota guy head down to me all my dad said was " Son that fancy new car better last you 200k just to break even". Being the stubborn Cubano I am I made sure the car would last me at least twice that so I took the advice of anyone who wanted to give it. The piece of advice that I credit for my high mileage but still running perfectly what's the advice given to me by an old Cuban guy it's Sears Auto in Pompano Square. He told me that oil is cheap but engines are expensive. When I asked him what he meant by that he showed me another customers Prevea van that was in for an oil change. He said the van head over 300K miles and we still running perfectly. He then directed me to the oil pan holding the old oil he just emptied out of it he dipped a paper towel into it and then another paper towel into some fresh oil he had. They both were almost The Identical color with one being slightly darker than the other. He said to never listen to Toyota when they tell you to change your oil every seven or 10K miles but to change it every 5 or 6 k and NO further! He also said that most mechanics use cheap paper oil filters into always insist on a premium one which usually only costs like $4 more. I change my oil every 5.5 k miles and my engine doesn't burn or leak any oil between changes. Now I work in auto finance and can honestly Drive almost any new car I want within reason but the reason I keep driving my Camry is cuz she represents the point in my life when I realized it was time to grow up even though I was kind of a wigger which would explain the body kits and spoilers she has sported over the years and have all been removed now. These people that buy like a Camry or a Corolla buy them because of their reputations for being Bulletproof but these people think they're literally Bulletproof. Especially by the 3rd or 4th boners.
Good car. I grew up driving dad's Previa
great story, I enjoyed reading it. I had two camrys in the past and they just kept going, I lost each in property settlements. Now I buy a sacrificial audi before any relationship so I can keep my toyota.
I have (insert engine) with 500k miles and it's still running strong with the original oil filter!
😆
slant 6 chrysler, never had to change the filter, just added oil, never did an oil change, 500k miles.
Hey, does anyone know what kind of screws the usually use for the connecting rods? is there any norm or something like that? thx in advance
You should be able to look up the part number on Toyota by looking at something specific like the piston.
On their website they'll have an exploded diagram of all the parts in the area. It's great when you want to find a specific replacement for a bolt/screw/nut that you lost.
There is no "standard" but the conrod cap screws are typically 12 point (triple square, as opposed to the double hex speedkar points out for the head screws). 12mm fine pitch is a pretty common size but again there is not a standard that all engines follow.
Yes, someone knows.
I have a 2006 Camry that’s been in the family since new. 127k km’s. It has only been winter driven once. I thought it would last me many more years but I learned about the oil burning issue and the head bolt issue last year and now I’m not so sure. I always use synthetic oil and I change it once per year at about 5k km’s. it doesn’t use oil and runs well so I’m hopeful if I treat it well and check the fluids often I’ll be ok. I’m a bit freaked out about the head bolts issue because there’s nothing I can really do about that.
I have a 2004 Camry, going strong. I went with the V6 though...no issues there
my grandfather has had his toyota 4runner since 2002 and has only ever changed the tires and the oil! its my grandparents daily driver and he takes great care of it.
Was the crankshaft rod journal damaged from the spun bearing? Would you think that crank could be used in a rebuild or was it toast?
It would have to be repolished and new set of bearings.
If that's the same engine I had in my 2005 Camry LE 2.4...My car ran like a dream for 218,000 miles with absolutely no problems at all.
I was lucky enough to have my engine serviced based off the service bulletin/extended warranty back in 2016. One thing that does concern me is that there was another video that inspected the new pistons and rings issued for service and they pointed out that it was not really redeisgned but just a direct replacement of the existing part. This means that it is bound to burn oil again? I am just going to hope it wont burn oil in the future. Still doing fine right now.
Well if it's nthe same part it might develop the same issue after alot of miles. There were revised piston heads to fix it.
The new pistons are not different, you'd get the same effect cleaning the old oil rings. It just re-sets the engine back to the beginning point. If you change the oil on schedule you should be OK. For Toyota, it just kicked the can down the road so the engine now outlasts the body. The "revised" pistons are not really different (YT was car care nut).
Stay away from one of these from 2007, unless the piston rings have been replaced and you can confirm if burns no oil
I have a 2009 what do you think about it I have it for 5 years and I haven't seen anything
What did toyota do differently on the 2arfe,to mitigate the piston ring issue, I understand that the 2arfe was introduced in 2009
Watch my 2AR video 😏
any engine fails for lack of maint period, those engines go forever with proper maint
Unless it fails for a reason not lack of maintenance. Manufacturers still make blunders and corners are cut to save money. As a full time tech 30 years i saw plenty. Maintenance is best way consumer can prevent failures.. That and avoiding crap brands, first year models, cars with poor reviews and reliability history
But other engines don't burn oil as much
@@lmb5529bml My Toyota 4.0 has 250k and burns none with proper maint does yours?
@@derrickodyes1934 I cant agree more thx
@@lutomson3496 The engine in the video actually does do as described even with proper maintenance. The oil ring gets stuck and the consumption jumps from a litre every once in a while to all of the oil in an hour. I’ve seen it. Checked the oil on the weekend, at the top. Wednesday, oil pressure light went on, no oil on the dipstick. Before that, checking the oil every few weeks was fine, and after that as well. But this engine decides it needs to go on a bender once in a while and drink all of the oil at once.
As an owner of a 2005 2AZ-FE 4-cyl with just over 200k miles, I can proudly say that the engine still purrs. I attribute its longevity to the fact that I swapped the factory oil at 1,000 miles with Mobil 1 fully synthetic and have used that ever since. I do all my own spill and fills. If I were to guess, the reason I don't have the oil burning problems described here is that Mobil1 fully synthetic does not gum up and retains viscosity much better than conventional oils as well as contains detergents that prevent the build up of sludge. In fact, it wouldn't surprise me if this engine had another 100k miles in it, but like speedkar says, the typical owner of one of these used them like an appliance. So using fully synthetic probably seems dumb until you total a Camry, but if you source all your spill and fill needs at your local Wally World, it is just smart.
Are you using 5w20 or 0w20?
I heard of a land cruiser that went 1 million miles on Mobil 1.
Im at 200 K miles with my 2AZ, burns a little oil but nothing crazy and still pulls quite strong.
I never liked the sound of the 2AZ though
@@speedkar99 yes I agree, mine sounds very agricultural lol but I had two FRS for many years and those sound like a mini tractor too so I'm very used to such noises 😄
You should take apart the 5sfe engine from the 95-01 camry. I've had 2 of them and one threw a rod due to weak connecting rod bolts. Apparently it's a notorious problem with those engines. People say they're reliable, yet the one I had had ZERO sludge or anything. It first started sounding like a valve tick which progressed to a light tapping sound around 2k rpm, then while driving on the highway, the oil pressure light came on and started knocking like crazy and it threw #2 rod which broke the front engine mount and oil filter. Yes it ripped the filter off. Crazy.
Same with my 2000 camry 260k miles
Ooo crap, I thought they were more reliable, but then I had more Hondas than Toyotas on the hoist.
How many miles? I owned two 5s-fe one with 275k (started getting weak compression after 16 years of daily use/abuse) and another with 175k, best engine in my opinion. Then I bought a 2014 with a 2AR-FE as talked about in the video, didn't burn oil but the valve train wanted to launch itself out of the valve cover after every oil change and during every cold start. 5s-fe's were the best engines IMO and experience at least....
@@awaara24 I've had a 96 Camry with 60,000 miles and a 95 Camry with 110,000 miles. I didn't beat on them or anything but the car that threw a rod was the 96 camry.. The 95 started making the knocking sound so I was able to sell it before it took a crap on me.. Alot of people had said that these cars are reliable yet these engines just love to throw rods..
Still more reliable than the 2az-fe
PCV valve is to take out the gases that are at the bottom of the engine that bypassed the piston rings. And return it to the combustion chamber to be burned. If this fails and is stuck closed, it will burn the oil because the gases are mixing with the oil. Its probably the top cause for engines to fail. When I work on cars I always check it for people and replace it and just charge them for the part because they are usually not hard to change.
Another outstanding video on the breakdown of the 2.4 L engine.
So my oil light came on, i checked the oil level it was still well above the L mark, i checked the oil pump and it was fine and also changed the oil pressure sensor. The engine is toast now but what could have caused all that with plenty of oil in the system?
Oil passages clogged starving the engine of oil. Or mixed with coolant which doesn't lubricate well
@@speedkar99 the only way i could check the oil passages would be to remove the head right? The oil looked fine minus the oil shavings in it now so i really don't know how it could have clogged
Had 2 of these engines fail on me. One spun bearing and one timing chain tensioner fail caused timing chain to burst out the valve cover. I avoided the v6 engine because of the rubber timing belt 🤦🏻♂️
Ouch! The V6 was the better choice for the 5th gen Camry
I had one of those, great engines as long as you put oil in it
Agreed. And that's the problem, Toyota drivers think they can just put gas and go forever...
@@speedkar99 yeah if you remember I messaged you about that car before it was tag teamed by a couple of 18 wheelers but I got that thing up to 300,000 miles no problem I just had to put oil in it every other week
Great CAFE invention - instead of the usual extra half a liter of gas per 100km with 5w-30, now half a liter of oil per 1000km
@@pliedtka mine was about a quart every 2000 miles. So it wasn't that bad but I've heard of people that didn't change their oil a lot and there's a lot of sludge on the rings and those burnt oil like a quart every 500 miles
@@speedkar99 no buddy, not all Toyota drivers....... What a dumb comment...
Even with all the jabs at Volkswagen (deserved or not), I have to commend you for your incredibly straightforward delivery and great advice. While I'm not in the market for a used Toyota (happily owning a 2.0 jetta seen previously dismantled in an older video), I am amazed at the raw amount of tips you give throughout; don't buy a car with one of these engines, if you did make sure you put oil in it and change the appropriate parts, if you're LOOKING at one right now look out for these faults, etc.
you truly are a selfless Renaissance Man
Telling the truth on vw sad but true!
i would never buy a VW/Audi. They are terrible.
@@ixfxi along with the stealership network, amazing they're still in business in the US.
@@ixfxi or Saab. Don't get me started.
So are they good engines after getting new pistons and the head bolt fix?
Yea they replace it with the correct pistons
I have a 05 scion that the head gasket blew and one of the head bolts stripped, now I'm stuck cause I don't know how to fix it.
Ouch! Very common issue. Get the helicoil kit and start drilling!
@@speedkar99 yea thats what I'm afraid to do lmao
Just chippin' in my 2.4 cents.. I have one with 200k miles in a 2005 Camry - I can safely say it doesn't burn any noticeable amount of oil. However, I am religious with the oil changes.
Same here with an 05 Tc 💪
Me too, 2002 with 205k mi. Smokes at startup though.
@@sjn7220 valve seals getting old
Excellent channel amigo! I follow you from Patagonia Argentina🇦🇷. It would be wonderful if you could analyze the 1ZZ-FE, I have it in my Corolla with no problems yet. In the USA I understand that it was a very used engine in the Matrix and in many other vehicles. Thank you so much and Happy New Year!!! 🎉🍾🙏🙌
Just bought a 2007 Corolla with the 1ZZ-FE so would like to see him analyze it also.
Other then the occasional Toyota Water Pump, timing chain tensionner gasket and sometimes headgaskets when it leaks oil on the back of the engine, the 1zz-fe will last a long time in a Corolla or Matrix.. if you beat on 'em like you would do a B Series VTEC engine however, they tend to be relatively short lived.. 5w30 oil is a must too. Even if Toyota had back spec'ed them for 5w20, they chew thru the rod bearings with 5w20...
Moral of the story, even Toyota isn't immune from poorly engineered engines (and transmissions) on rare occasion.
Yes
Sounds like Volkswagens on your Naughty List.
How is the 2013 Matrix’s 2AZ?
My son's 2003 Honda Accord LX with 170,000 miles he bought last year burns oil, maybe a quart every thousand miles. I think this engine has a similar problem to this one in that the piston rings get clogged. If it weren't for me he would have seized the engine by now. I make him check the oil regularly, he even carries a jug of oil with him in his car. Just get the Walmart stuff, I figure the rolling use of oil is almost equivalent to an oil change, but obviously we still change the oil and filter during the specified interval.
Bought one for my sister from an old lady. Immaculate and lady driven since new with good maintenance records and it burns like this as well. I think it's an inherent problem with these K23's just no one wants to admit it. It runs like a top so we just keep it full on oil.
Following this channel! Man, i've been looking for content exactly like this for years! Thank you+
Thanks!
Many likes your review of 2AZ-FE. Stop me from thinking to buy used 2.4L Camry. I hope my current 1NZ-FE will not have this issue.
I have a 1NZ teardown video. They are pretty reliable
Low oil on the 2.4 seems to be standard. I replaced one for low oil damage and now the customer 80k replacement is doing the same thing about 20k later. Also clients don’t check it so they will be calling me soon.
Agreed. The typical Toyota owner doesn't check oil
i have a 1az-fse which i drive hard, i use 5w 30 and change oil every 5000 miles, burns oil slightly but not much, amazing engine
You should do a teardown on a Buick 3800
can you do a ford/mazda duratec engine? 1.4 SPJA is preffred but any duratec will work.
i have a fiesta with 1.4 duratec engine and id love to see your analysis and learn more :)
Can you please find a Skyactiv 2.5L Mazda engine to teardown. I'm very curious how they look like inside.
great video! You're my 3rd favorite automotive channel!
What's first and second
@@speedkar99 I Do Cars and The Car Wizard
I think a lot of this poor design piston ring stuff started because many governments mandated stricter emission requirements during cold start-up. They forced the companies to move the piston rings very close to the top of the piston head because that area was trapping unburned fuel. The rings were made thinner, piston ring grooves made narrower. Yes, even the oil control ring could not escape big brothers watchful eye; had to be designed thinner to the point that it could no longer do its job. Instead of lowering net emissions, they created the excessive oil burning problems with modern engines. They pollute less for the 1 minute cold start period, but pollute more for the entire time the car is being driven. And the car owners are stuck with the resultant repair bills. We have such smart people in government now!
@19:26 Another example of the damage dinosaur oil does to an engine. Extended performance high mileage full synthetic oil is the best IMO, especially for direct fuel injection engines (which I try to avoid along with anything turbo)
What about 2zr dual vvt_i engins
Are they good ?
Thank you so much
Yes
My 2008 eats oil like a pig. Alwyas adding. 175k. So far so good. They had a recall for these.
Yeah, the oil slips past the piston rings and burns with the fuel at higher RPMs. Had the same issue with mine
Bulletproof motors just do lots of oil changes, they are cheap
I am considering a second generation Mazda2 as a commuter car.
Is the 1.5L ZY-VE l4 reliable?
Also getting it as a manual transmission only.
I own a 2014 Mazda 2 that has the ZY engine with 115k mi. It’s had no issues since I’ve owned it. The manual is great. It’s a fun car!
@@Henhenjamib great to hear, thanks!
Going to check one next week:
2011 Touring manual with 77K miles.
Decent but watch the rust
Yep, if you’re looking at buying a used Mazda, look the car over. Rust has always been Mazdas weak point.
Yes most definitely, first thing I do when seeing a car is get underneath with a flashlight and look for rust/covered rust and leaks.
Excellent video... Finally a good tear down video for my 2azfe.
Do you know how many miles on that engine before it died?
No idea. 2008 Camry was all the info
Excellent tear down love your videos 🙏💯
Dude, you're the man! That was awesome. My girl ran her 07 rav4 low on oil, and this is exactly what happened. My friend things maybe he can do a rod bearing from the bottom. Seems possible? Obviously not doing it right, but seems possible.
Can you make a review on 2017 Ford Focus 1.5 ecoboost
I'm on my second Scion xB with that engine and the first one did fail because of the issues with oil consumption and piston rings but I have a second when I'm trying to keep from blowing up and I'm curious what the best oil to use for longevity would be. I used Lucas oil stabilizer in the first one but apparently that wasn't enough...
just use the specified oil and change on the specified interval. don't use stabilizer, maybe unless you already have a burning or leaking problem
@@poiiihy I should have been more specific I was wondering should I use 0-20 or 5-20
Lucas is trash as it's too think and aerates, yes even the synthetic version. It only helps if your already having engine trouble as it closes up tolerances.
Just keep your oil changed regularly and fill with a reputable full synthetic @ recommended viscosity.
@@jyearr6744 I only use recommended amsoil now and I wish I'd remembered that I'd put the Lucas in it before because if I just changed it to regular oil I'm sure it would have consumed the quart in less than 1200 miles and I would have got a new engine under warranty!
Follow the manual's specs. Toyota dealers use the same oil in all engines here in Belgium because the customers don't want to pay for the correct oil.
Hi speedkar99 how are you?? What year this engine?
You Know I might actually start flying in an airplane again if you were the Lead Mechanic! One crash was enough for me. Thank you for yet another education. Go with the 6 cylinder aye aye. Thanks Bro!
I'm too scared to fly myself lol
these aluminum blocks do the have nicaseal cilinderwalls???(nickelplated??)i didn t see an cast iron sleeve for it.....and yes the 0w and 5w can clough up prity bad,the holes for the return is definitly a problem(1 or 2 service interval skips can make a diffrence then)...maybe an extra oilnozzel under the pistons can take the temperature down from the piston crow ,to prevent the oil burnig up in those holes????anyway just saying.....good content dude
Thanks. I didn't check for the steel sleeve
Dang it! My daughter Scion xB. It's knocking. It was a oil eater. I thought maybe you can just drop the oil pan and boom there's the mains for a generic fix . you got a tear apart everything to get to the mains?
i would like to see the 2gr-fe my 06 avalon has that engine i know a lot of them failed due to a leaking vvt-i oil line which was recalled by toyota.
You just don't know how much I love you for this video and of this effing motor. I watch all of your teardowns and looked just a few days ago to see if you did this motor. I did see the 2AR‐FE teardown, but I currently have an '04 Camry with this motor.
you my be fine because I think the trouble started in 2007 model years
Great work, Happy New Year from UK..
Thanks from Canada
Many Toyota engines wouldn't sludge to death if people changed oil every 3,000 miles. The 5,000 mile conventional oil change is BS in most Toyota engines. Sometimes you can't trust your own manual. 1.0mmX1.0mmX2.0mm piston ring packs are way more sensitive to this than the old 1.5x1.5x4.0 ring packs.
Many engines like this would get rehoned, then people would drill holes in the oil ring groove to prevent future oil burning. This wasn't an option with the Nissan 2.5L, burning oil would destroy the precat, bits of the precat would get sucked back in during valve overlap, and the cylinder bores would be destroyed. An overbore and oversize pistons were the only fix, and most of those cars weren't worth it.
8:04 I was sure those were "Triple Square" after seeing them on German cars. One thing I hated about German cars was needing a set of those, allen keys, and torx bits as well as a set of metric wrenches. I tell people to buy Toyotas if they aren't car enthusiasts to avoid a lot of BS expense in auto repair and maintenance. If you buy a German car, you MUST know a reputable "All European specialty" repair shop with a good reputation. It will save you lots of money on maintenance and repair bills.
9:35 Lately many 4-cylinder engines have combined the balance shafts and oil pump.
14:28 If your car has one, remove, give it a shake, and listen to it make a clicking noise. If it doesn't, you need to replace it. Also, if your engine doesn't run that great, a PCV failure will make the engine behave like it has a vacuum leak. In many cars that would not idle properly, if you shook the PCV valve, it sounded like a soccer ball falling in mud. This test is far from perect. PCV valves have a spring in them and it can fatigue over time. That might make it open more than it should.
16:04 it ensures an even distributon of antifreeze around all cylinders.
20:19 You take the spark plugs out, pour in a bunch of Seafoam and let it sit for a while. You pump out the Seafoam, and hopefully it did some good. No promises.
Thanks for your points.
I keep my oil changes around 5000km too
Can you make a video on TOYOTA 1MZ-FE , Please...
What differ this from the 1AZ-FE engine?
Other than displacement I'm not sure. We don't get the 1AZ here in Canada
Maybe it's simply the focal length of the lens used, but this engine appears very short in length, is it so ?
On another note: Ford tried spraying oil under the pistons for the 5.0 V-8 of the Mustang but then stopped it, for what reason I do not know.
Most likely, I'd say, their issue was oil burning....due to too much oil on the cylinder walls.
Except for the ones made in Japan. I got one 2008 Rav and guess what? The piston rings were made in Japan where they made micrometric errors and still not burning oil. It runs like a baby! 5w30 pemzoil high mileage syntetic..
The plastic/Fiber gasket on mine broke, clogged my pickup and smoked my bearings from lack of oil. I didn’t hear, see or feel a thing until the bearings we burnt.
Had a colleague who never changed his oil in his 2005 Camry... He only tops up... I asked why he did that... His reply "It's a Toyota!" ..... No lie.
That's half the problem...the owners
This is probably not your style, but I would love if you took apart a Opel/Holden/Vauxhall/Chevrolet Vectra C 1.9 Diesel 150HP. I love the car and the engine (it's been really holding up), but I really wanna hear your opinion since I was thinking of giving it more power.
I’d the 1.9;turbo diesel and it was a flying machine my wife loved the traffic lights drag race I gave it away when it had over 185,000 miles on it and the engine was still running great I changed the oil twice a year and I think that’s what helped it, unfortunately everything else was starting to wear out but the engine was still performing well didn’t burn oil if I’d somewhere to work on replacing the power steering and the other bits that needed done I would have kept it, drive the 2.2 Toyota diesel now and it’s nowhere near as quick as the Vectra
@@johnmehaffey9953 Yes, it's got a really smooth power curve. Mine is currently on 185.000 miles but it's in mint condition (someone took good care of it). I really like the car and I'm gonna rock it 'till the wheels fall off :D
Hey you forgot one opportunity to snark on VAG! I believe the 2AZ-FE has metal back timing chain tensioner guides. Unlike a Volkswagen
Poor VAG - but yeah I totally agree with the comments addressing their parts design. " The new Camry they redesigned it and actually made it worse..." I think very much the same applies to 2.4L CR-V, Element, Accord engines
I use 0w-30 instead of 5(0)w-20 - seems like compromise between 2% less internal friction, tighter tolerances and a bit higher higher temps the oil can withstand.
After I tore down so many VW engines it's clear to see the difference