This video has a ton of talking in it, so if you're looking to cut to the chase: 0:44 - Step 1: Mechanically Sound 1:58- Step 2: Brake Pads 3:15- Step 3: Brake Fluid 5:53- Step 4: Fluid Changes 6:28- Step 5: Tires 8:35- Step 6: Cooling 10:17 & Beyond- Build Video There's a bunch of resources for more track prep info in the description. Cheers!
@@ForTehNguyen I cannot emphasize this more. I keep telling my friends that wheels are consumables especially for track use. They of course wouldn't listen and drop 3k on some fancy wheels and now they're too afraid to go to the track and damage the wheels.
@@ForTehNguyen Looks like those stock BBS wheels are for his winter tires only, track-wise they would be irrelevant. But I'd agree in that wheels are part of the consumables - the abuse they get on track is going to reduce the life of the wheel somewhat...
@@jrcautomotive4319 oh haha totally missed that reference, sorry. I was thinking more how adamlz's titles are literally all clickbait. At least David's titles are somewhat relevant to the content.
Ben! First, great t-shirt. Second, your list needs some work. Should look more like this: 1) Watch Jackie Ding video, 2) Go full send, 3) Find good body shop (sorry JDing! lol)
If you are using this video as research for your first track day do not put R888 or any other r comp 100 tread wear tire on your car. This is an amateur move. The guy in the video knows what he is doing as a driver. Its not his first track day. Beginners are different. Your goal should be to learn how to drive your car, not achieve lap time XX:YY.ZZ. The lower tread wear tire you chose the higher skill you need to have to drive at the limit, which should be your goal. Learn to consistently achieve the limit of the setup's traction first. Then once your driver mod is maxed out buy some r comp tires. Understand that on an r comp tire you have to go faster to achieve the limit and once you cross the limit the tire will punish you by falling off the grip cliff. The result is a snap spin or an over correction followed by a snap spin. 200 tread wear street tires transition from grip to drift. It is in the nature of a street tire to have a wide grey area at the limit where you have time to react and counter the early stages of a spin. One final note. The reason you see R888Rs everywhere is because Toyo has a very aggressive marketing campaign. It is easy to get sponsored by Toyo. Everyone who is sponsored by Toyo is given R888R weather the tire is worth a shit or not. Ive been a track day driving instructor for several years.
Couldn't agree more, on your first track day take your car down in a safe (street legal) state and hit it. Learn the vehicle, learn the track and learn what it's like being on the track with other cars if you're not used to this either. Once you've really gotten a feel for everything then start hitting those lap times by ticking things off the list. The best way to also understand the limits of your car is to take it to the track and keep an eye on temps, brake pad wear, fade, tyre wear (look for incorrect suspension adjustment which might show as uneven wear in a bad way, I won't go into all the if's and what's here), fluids after the track day too (oil, coolant etc)
Thanks for this information. I’m 17 and have a 2007 Ford Mustang GT and would love to begin Auto-cross. What’s your opinion on BFGoodrich Comp 2 summer tires? Are they nice summer tires for a beginner?
@@flubdreload2818 340 tread wear is ok for a first track day or auto x but its on the hard side. Not a thing for auto x but if you have talent you may get them greasy after a few laps on the big boy track compared to a 200 tread wear tire. However, you will learn faster how to handle the car on a 340 tw like the g forces. They will make a lot of noise which you can use to help judge where your being too aggressive or, not aggressive enough if you cant hear em. That's another plus to street tires. r comps only make noise when its too late. In that category consider the firehawk indy 500. I had a student running them who did well and have always heard very good things. A heavy car like a mustang won't like a tire less aggressive than 350 tw. Tread wear isnt exactly a measure of grip but its the closest we have to judge. Two 340 tw tires could handle a little different.
when going to my first trackday I heard about brake fade and I thought "pff what bunch of pussies, I can handle it" but when I went there and 20min into track driving I came into a braking zone at 140kmph and the car wouldn't stop I released they were telling the truth, luckily braking zone was made out of traffic cones early before the actual corner so I just flew straight between the cones that were arranged in a chicane and by the time I reached the actual corner with a steel barrier after it I slowed down enough to take the corner and head to the pits to find my brake rotors in color blue
Well, the jack doesn't have the rubber disk, so he needs to pad it somehow. Otherwise, he probably wouldn't have used a rag if the rubber disk was there.
I don't think you should shy away from these types of videos. Even the way you guys film and stitch these together is much more pleasing and organized than any of the other vlog-style channels around. Really enjoyed this.
Track prep... or changing the car from stage 3 to stage 4+ Cooler system radiator upgrade”? Too much dude, all these mods can be made without thinking about track.... The price of the upgrade is too high
Cmon man, real evo owners would have replaced the full piping kit, turbo, cams, injectors, gearbox, short block, since you are in there ;) I like this style video allot, good for new track drivers to reference before they take it on track
I use black latex mechanic gloves. Primarily so I can just take off my glove and eat my pizza with clean hands when I take a break from whatever I'm working on.
I'm surprised you didn't do an ecu tune after installing aftermarket parts. This video is fantastic. Hope to see evo track footage soon. It's direct and to the point.
It depends what parts are being installed. An intercooler may not need a tune unless it has far less pressure drop than the existing one that it is replacing.
Actual tip: under no circumstances make hardware changes to your car just before going to a track day. Certainly not an inter cooler unless you want to spend an expensive day chasing boost leaks instead of fun.
That pipe that got thinner, if I'm not mistaken air gets drastically colder when it's forced through smaller spaces. But if you gain power I guess is all good.
Other way around. When air is compressed (ie. forced into a smaller space), it heats up. Conversely, reducing pressure also reduces temperature. Stepping down the diameter does increase velocity (duet to the increase in pressure), but that's more important on old carbed cars. Here you want volume/mass. Useless side-note: There is one gas that I'm aware of that doesn't follow this rule: hydrogen. Nasty stuff when it's compressed and you get a leak...
You should do whatever you like and want to do. Even if sometimes it may seem not as appealing, trust me, it is. In this video for example, you could be talking about potatoes and I would still probably like it. Your videos are always awesome because of your camera work, narration/commentary and most important because of the effort you put into them. Both of you Ben's are doing a great job :)
Awesome bro! I just changed out the Intercooler on my Evo 9 too! Did you know that the stock Intercooler was painted black at the top? I thought the past owner poofed can it and I was like WTF cus they got overspray on the framing, comes out that Mitsubishi did that on all the Evos lol!
people always talk about Castrol SFR with comments like "if you're made of money" but you need to look past the list price. like for example how big the bottle is... when you compare price per fluid ounce its not all that much more expensive. Its about double the cost of Motul 600 per oz. While double sounds like a lot, its not like you need to buy 13 gallons of the stuff... That being said, Castrol SRF isn't for everyone, its less hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs less water. while that may sound like a good thing up front, that means that the fluid and water stay separated more once there is water in your brake system, which can lead to vapor lock and your brakes not working when you step on the brake pedal. Just to avoid any confusion, I'm not in any way saying the Castrol SRF is a bad fluid, its an amazing fluid. But its not the kinda fluid you can put in your car and forget about for 7 years. Its meant for race cars that see constant maintenance. Where it excels is in conditions where it will see lots of heat cycles in a short period of time, some fluids will need to be flushed every 1-3 track days, the SRF will be good for 10+... as long as they're not 7 years apart. Most people that run SRF will flush it once a track season. So under the right use case, its actually cheaper than other cheaper DOT4 fluids.
What do you guys suggest I do, I own a 94 N/A z32 and I’m worried that if I were to take it to the track all the rubber hoses might get messed up maybe even melt? I’m in Florida and that already happened to me in my mustang driving from miami to cape coral.
You build your car like I do lol. “While I’m in here I will just do this” annnnddd this annnnddd this annnndd now I have a racecar lol If you see this comment go check out Zitro Racing on TH-cam! And gears and gasoline I love you guys!
Just slotted rotors huh? What effect do you think Cross drilled, and slotted rotors would have on the track? Great video, loved the quality. Also, love the shot at 6:22. With the camera stand in there as well?!?! AWESOME
Hey guys I've been watching a ton of your videos and was noticing you use a lot of the coil rad radiators just wondering if and why you prefer them over the mishimoto radiators
oh gee thanks for letting me know that you were metaphorically speaking when you said one of the most used metaphors in all of existence! I was worried that you were actually going to kill 2 birds with the same stone in this video. also thanks wasting my time I wish i could get back the watch time because watching you install a radiator on a completely stock car has got to be the most pointless video i have ever seen and was in no way related to preparing for the track
In my honest opinion you guys exagerate WAY too much on the preparations, all you really need is the same stuff you used on the road and the willingness to accelarate to your heart's content!
Dumb question - do you need to change the rotors if you change the pads? I’ve heard some say to do it as best practice and some say that it’s not that serious and to just bed the brakes
beyond brakes and tires, everything else that determines how fast you are is basically how well you manage heat. Heat is the biggest issue. Tires get hot, brakes get hot, shocks get hot, engine gets hot, coolant gets hot, trans, diff...etc. The better you manage the heat, the longer you can drive faster.
No more front brace (I dont know the right now for it). I'm assuming the intercooler was too thick to allow that to fit, plan to mod that one or try to get a new one?
Great video, one thing I think should be noted, that people who go to the track for the first time don’t know how important tire pressure is, and how much it can change once your tires get up to temp. Monitoring your tire pressure is crucial.
It's nice to see videos from you guys, regardless of how "edited" and "polished" they are. This "barebones" video is what a lot of other youtubers do, so don't stress yourself out. It's still a super helpful video even though it doesn't have fancy B-roll and music
you seem uncertain or timid about this video lol be confident! there's no shame in showing the mods to your car. its kinda like vloging but there's nothing wrong with that. you give great content and provided helpful information bro. it's not as theatrical and exciting like your other videos but this is still good stuff. i like it.
suggestion: if your going to be exchanging the brake fluid often, spend the 120.00 and purchase a cal-van pressure bleeder. makes bleeding brakes a 1 man job and you really get all the old fluid out with very little chase of air getting in. a good rule of thumb for pressure bleeding is 30psi (2bar)
This is exactly the type of video I’ve been waiting for someone to make, in depth and actually cover everything. Most videos will miss a lot of things or don’t explain things fully and it’s always annoyed me. Thank you
you forgot about checking your suspension, you should review the car's manual on the torque of every bolt in all of the suspension components and torque them to spec if not change them... The suspension takes a lot of stress when preforming Especially when you're using stickier tyres
This video has a ton of talking in it, so if you're looking to cut to the chase:
0:44 - Step 1: Mechanically Sound
1:58- Step 2: Brake Pads
3:15- Step 3: Brake Fluid
5:53- Step 4: Fluid Changes
6:28- Step 5: Tires
8:35- Step 6: Cooling
10:17 & Beyond- Build Video
There's a bunch of resources for more track prep info in the description. Cheers!
Your BBS's look like they are cracked @ 1:24
They are not, just cracked paint
We don't need this bro.. We love to watch you people on screen and the details you take care of.. Awwwesome
Gears and Gasoline great video lot of good information. It may have taken lots of takes but in the end 👍👍. I would watch more of this.
Are you gonna get another tune ?
I'm thankful that automotive channels like this still exist. No click bait fluff just genuine interesting content. Great job guys.
i know dude.no b.s with this guys
No terrible music.
No clickbait.
No cringeworthy content.
Just information and the sweet sounds of work. More of these would be awesome.
Looks like your wheel has a massive crack in it @ 1:24
not many people know that wheels are designed to be track consumables and should be replaced at certain intervals
The paint just has a crack in it from heat. Wheel is fine.
Gears and Gasoline that really doesnt look like the paint
@@ForTehNguyen I cannot emphasize this more. I keep telling my friends that wheels are consumables especially for track use. They of course wouldn't listen and drop 3k on some fancy wheels and now they're too afraid to go to the track and damage the wheels.
@@ForTehNguyen Looks like those stock BBS wheels are for his winter tires only, track-wise they would be irrelevant.
But I'd agree in that wheels are part of the consumables - the abuse they get on track is going to reduce the life of the wheel somewhat...
Guys... This was different, but it was great nonetheless! Keep it coming!
You did something different but with great quality, not poor vloggity vlogs.
driftingmindz_jp is that a stab at ThatDudeinBlue?
@@jrcautomotive4319 more like adamlz
Jackson Hilts Does he call his vloggity vlogs? I know ThatDudeinBlue does.
@@jrcautomotive4319 oh haha totally missed that reference, sorry. I was thinking more how adamlz's titles are literally all clickbait. At least David's titles are somewhat relevant to the content.
Jackson Hilts No worries! I can’t stand AdamLZ.
Ben! First, great t-shirt. Second, your list needs some work. Should look more like this: 1) Watch Jackie Ding video, 2) Go full send, 3) Find good body shop (sorry JDing! lol)
Jackie will never speak to you guys again after this
Damn, brutal!... but true :P
Gears and Gasoline lol we will make it up to him with an easy opponent for our Miata Challenge series 😆
@@speedacademydave curse you
If you are using this video as research for your first track day do not put R888 or any other r comp 100 tread wear tire on your car. This is an amateur move. The guy in the video knows what he is doing as a driver. Its not his first track day. Beginners are different. Your goal should be to learn how to drive your car, not achieve lap time XX:YY.ZZ. The lower tread wear tire you chose the higher skill you need to have to drive at the limit, which should be your goal. Learn to consistently achieve the limit of the setup's traction first. Then once your driver mod is maxed out buy some r comp tires. Understand that on an r comp tire you have to go faster to achieve the limit and once you cross the limit the tire will punish you by falling off the grip cliff. The result is a snap spin or an over correction followed by a snap spin. 200 tread wear street tires transition from grip to drift. It is in the nature of a street tire to have a wide grey area at the limit where you have time to react and counter the early stages of a spin. One final note. The reason you see R888Rs everywhere is because Toyo has a very aggressive marketing campaign. It is easy to get sponsored by Toyo. Everyone who is sponsored by Toyo is given R888R weather the tire is worth a shit or not. Ive been a track day driving instructor for several years.
Couldn't agree more, on your first track day take your car down in a safe (street legal) state and hit it. Learn the vehicle, learn the track and learn what it's like being on the track with other cars if you're not used to this either. Once you've really gotten a feel for everything then start hitting those lap times by ticking things off the list. The best way to also understand the limits of your car is to take it to the track and keep an eye on temps, brake pad wear, fade, tyre wear (look for incorrect suspension adjustment which might show as uneven wear in a bad way, I won't go into all the if's and what's here), fluids after the track day too (oil, coolant etc)
Thanks for this information. I’m 17 and have a 2007 Ford Mustang GT and would love to begin Auto-cross. What’s your opinion on BFGoodrich Comp 2 summer tires? Are they nice summer tires for a beginner?
@@flubdreload2818 340 tread wear is ok for a first track day or auto x but its on the hard side. Not a thing for auto x but if you have talent you may get them greasy after a few laps on the big boy track compared to a 200 tread wear tire. However, you will learn faster how to handle the car on a 340 tw like the g forces. They will make a lot of noise which you can use to help judge where your being too aggressive or, not aggressive enough if you cant hear em. That's another plus to street tires. r comps only make noise when its too late. In that category consider the firehawk indy 500. I had a student running them who did well and have always heard very good things. A heavy car like a mustang won't like a tire less aggressive than 350 tw. Tread wear isnt exactly a measure of grip but its the closest we have to judge. Two 340 tw tires could handle a little different.
Do you have to learn how to heel toe before going to your first track day?
How to prepare your car for the track (DISRESPECTED EVO)
when going to my first trackday I heard about brake fade and I thought "pff what bunch of pussies, I can handle it" but when I went there and 20min into track driving I came into a braking zone at 140kmph and the car wouldn't stop I released they were telling the truth, luckily braking zone was made out of traffic cones early before the actual corner so I just flew straight between the cones that were arranged in a chicane and by the time I reached the actual corner with a steel barrier after it I slowed down enough to take the corner and head to the pits to find my brake rotors in color blue
1:12 that is how you know someone actually loves their machine
Well, the jack doesn't have the rubber disk, so he needs to pad it somehow. Otherwise, he probably wouldn't have used a rag if the rubber disk was there.
I don't think you should shy away from these types of videos. Even the way you guys film and stitch these together is much more pleasing and organized than any of the other vlog-style channels around. Really enjoyed this.
really satisfying watching you just work on your car, no music or distractions.
6:05 love your led panel for working on the engine could you make a video about how you made that?
I was just thinking the same thing! That thing is beautiful and genius! I could use this in my life for my Evo lol
Hold up. Is that license plate an Archer reference?
It is. It’s named after Lana from archer
Track prep... or changing the car from stage 3 to stage 4+
Cooler system radiator upgrade”?
Too much dude, all these mods can be made without thinking about track....
The price of the upgrade is too high
Great video!
Idk if you plan to race on those rims but the rear rim at 1:24 has a decent sized crack which can be a major issue!
Holy cow you're right that looks like a problem
Just cracked paint
Ah lucky! Would have been a major issue if it was a crack, which is one thing to look for.
Cmon man, real evo owners would have replaced the full piping kit, turbo, cams, injectors, gearbox, short block, since you are in there ;)
I like this style video allot, good for new track drivers to reference before they take it on track
Bro, ever heard of gloves? That stuff ain’t good for your hands (or your interior)
I use black latex mechanic gloves. Primarily so I can just take off my glove and eat my pizza with clean hands when I take a break from whatever I'm working on.
Highly recommend a Motive Power Bleeder for changing and bleeding your brakes. I used to dred bleeding brakes, now I enjoy it and can do it by myself.
Totally agree. Makes life SO much easier. Especially if you have a more modern car, it'll help a ton.
If you don't mind me asking, did you rent out a self storage unit to keep your extra car parts in and work on your car?
Most places will absolutely not let you work on a car in their storage unit.They barely want to let you store the car in there.
Even tho you say the back half of the video isn't really helpful or informative just remember visual learning is the most helpful.
I'm surprised you didn't do an ecu tune after installing aftermarket parts.
This video is fantastic. Hope to see evo track footage soon. It's direct and to the point.
It depends what parts are being installed. An intercooler may not need a tune unless it has far less pressure drop than the existing one that it is replacing.
Actual tip: under no circumstances make hardware changes to your car just before going to a track day. Certainly not an inter cooler unless you want to spend an expensive day chasing boost leaks instead of fun.
That pipe that got thinner, if I'm not mistaken air gets drastically colder when it's forced through smaller spaces. But if you gain power I guess is all good.
Other way around. When air is compressed (ie. forced into a smaller space), it heats up. Conversely, reducing pressure also reduces temperature. Stepping down the diameter does increase velocity (duet to the increase in pressure), but that's more important on old carbed cars. Here you want volume/mass.
Useless side-note: There is one gas that I'm aware of that doesn't follow this rule: hydrogen. Nasty stuff when it's compressed and you get a leak...
This is how you can tell the difference in production, we gotta appreciate how much they put into their video editing!!
wooooohhhhh is it thatt easy to change brembo breaks pads
yes if your calipers are windowed, its much easier to change pads
You should do whatever you like and want to do. Even if sometimes it may seem not as appealing, trust me, it is. In this video for example, you could be talking about potatoes and I would still probably like it. Your videos are always awesome because of your camera work, narration/commentary and most important because of the effort you put into them. Both of you Ben's are doing a great job :)
I didn’t see the blue front chassis brace at the end. Could it no longer fit with the upgraded intercooler?
Correct I need new bolts and washers potentially
14:14 when honda civic owners puts a spoiler on their car
The basics, always the most important things.
Awesome bro! I just changed out the Intercooler on my Evo 9 too! Did you know that the stock Intercooler was painted black at the top? I thought the past owner poofed can it and I was like WTF cus they got overspray on the framing, comes out that Mitsubishi did that on all the Evos lol!
don't you need to tune after an upgraded intercooler ? or is it just an ej255 things that if you change the freaking lug nuts you need a tune...
Hahahahhahahahahahaha ikr?
The like to dislike ratio must be about as good as you can achieve in youtube
im surprised the tracks your running at let you run with wheel spacers on
no ones talking about losing the front blue brace that looked so cool in the grille :(
i was looking for this exact comment.
Great quality video as always keep up the good work guys 👍
Step 1 - HAVE A SHIT TON OF MONEY
Step 2 - try not to crash and die on the track
Step 3 - HAVE MORE MONEY!!!
people always talk about Castrol SFR with comments like "if you're made of money" but you need to look past the list price. like for example how big the bottle is... when you compare price per fluid ounce its not all that much more expensive. Its about double the cost of Motul 600 per oz. While double sounds like a lot, its not like you need to buy 13 gallons of the stuff...
That being said, Castrol SRF isn't for everyone, its less hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs less water. while that may sound like a good thing up front, that means that the fluid and water stay separated more once there is water in your brake system, which can lead to vapor lock and your brakes not working when you step on the brake pedal. Just to avoid any confusion, I'm not in any way saying the Castrol SRF is a bad fluid, its an amazing fluid. But its not the kinda fluid you can put in your car and forget about for 7 years. Its meant for race cars that see constant maintenance. Where it excels is in conditions where it will see lots of heat cycles in a short period of time, some fluids will need to be flushed every 1-3 track days, the SRF will be good for 10+... as long as they're not 7 years apart. Most people that run SRF will flush it once a track season. So under the right use case, its actually cheaper than other cheaper DOT4 fluids.
Is it ok to use high performance/boiling point break fluid if your not going to track the car?
There's no reason not to but it costs way too much to do "just because"
@@iamstd2 Thanks.
before using water wetter, google "water wetter sludge". same thing applies to similar products from Royal Purple and AMSOIL and etc...
What do you guys suggest I do, I own a 94 N/A z32 and I’m worried that if I were to take it to the track all the rubber hoses might get messed up maybe even melt? I’m in Florida and that already happened to me in my mustang driving from miami to cape coral.
You build your car like I do lol. “While I’m in here I will just do this” annnnddd this annnnddd this annnndd now I have a racecar lol
If you see this comment go check out Zitro Racing on TH-cam!
And gears and gasoline I love you guys!
Just slotted rotors huh? What effect do you think Cross drilled, and slotted rotors would have on the track? Great video, loved the quality. Also, love the shot at 6:22. With the camera stand in there as well?!?! AWESOME
Did the bumper fit right on? Or did you have to modify that some?
Information plus entertainment you guys are killing it with the different style of content
He didn't lube the contact points on the brake pads, or clean the surface before install
Didn't this engine almost explode? And required a teardown and rebuild? Oh it did? Okay. Thanks.
Thanks for good advices :) You white EVO it's amazing car, good luck man ;)
Only from curiosity... Why didn't you choose a Wagner cooler for you turbo? They are famous for great quality for not deadly prices.
Are you guys based in Va still? Would love to link up with you guys & shoot something.
Hey guys I've been watching a ton of your videos and was noticing you use a lot of the coil rad radiators just wondering if and why you prefer them over the mishimoto radiators
oh gee thanks for letting me know that you were metaphorically speaking when you said one of the most used metaphors in all of existence! I was worried that you were actually going to kill 2 birds with the same stone in this video. also thanks wasting my time I wish i could get back the watch time because watching you install a radiator on a completely stock car has got to be the most pointless video i have ever seen and was in no way related to preparing for the track
At 11:40, what do you call that blue frame thing he's removing from the car? Thanks in advance!
In my honest opinion you guys exagerate WAY too much on the preparations, all you really need is the same stuff you used on the road and the willingness to accelarate to your heart's content!
Dumb question - do you need to change the rotors if you change the pads? I’ve heard some say to do it as best practice and some say that it’s not that serious and to just bed the brakes
beyond brakes and tires, everything else that determines how fast you are is basically how well you manage heat. Heat is the biggest issue. Tires get hot, brakes get hot, shocks get hot, engine gets hot, coolant gets hot, trans, diff...etc. The better you manage the heat, the longer you can drive faster.
you dont need to zoom into your face everytime you explain something, your an automotive enthusiast not a male model
No tune after the bigger Fmic ? As It's after your O2 sensor, your car will run lean without a tune 😬
Really liking these type of videos
Gears and Gasoline is the best!
How do you ‘push’ the brake fluid out?? You earned yourself a dislike for not showing this.
Castrol SRF boiling point is much higher than the RBF 600 so no, they aren't the same.
You modified/upgrade car parts cause they’re cool or it has a purpose. I’m leaning towards purpose
No crash bar and 85/15 water/coolant are interesting choices. Good video though.
Thanks to *Reyes_hack* on Instagram I’m happy he got my Ford car tracked back to me..
Thanks to *Reyes_hack* on Instagram I’m happy he got my Ford car tracked back to me..
Thanks to *Reyes_hack* on Instagram I’m happy he got my Ford car tracked back to me..
That intro is basically him saying that this video wasn’t edited by a professional editor (i.e him) lol
No more front brace (I dont know the right now for it). I'm assuming the intercooler was too thick to allow that to fit, plan to mod that one or try to get a new one?
Learned a lot from this video
Thanks guys!
I just love that disclaimer in the intro. No clickbait. No BS.
Liked and commented for more of this. The cinematic content is great, but this was great too.
U have a Lancer ES and an Evo
That’s absolute life goals broooo
Can I swap the brakes back to street brakes after my track day or should I just use them up
Looks like your wheel has a canyon in it man... LOL
Ben’s Mitsubishi > Ben’s Subaru(s). *Flame suit on*
How does the bumper and other outer parts fit if the new intercooler was an inch wider?
1:25 is that a crack in your wheel?
Cracked paint.
Probably old, dry dog piss :p
Wheel is fine.
Great video! Looks like the Cusco brace doesn't fit over that IC - was a slight disappointment for me when upgrading my fmic, oh well. Keep it up!
I feel like every big hit to my wallet comes from the phrase “well... while I’m in there I might as well....”
A phrase ur wallet never wants to hear
"options from castrol if you're literally made of money"
Great informative video!
Like the two guys at MCM, you violated your Evo.
dont forget to loctite and safety wire every single nut and bolt on the car
Great video, one thing I think should be noted, that people who go to the track for the first time don’t know how important tire pressure is, and how much it can change once your tires get up to temp. Monitoring your tire pressure is crucial.
It's nice to see videos from you guys, regardless of how "edited" and "polished" they are. This "barebones" video is what a lot of other youtubers do, so don't stress yourself out. It's still a super helpful video even though it doesn't have fancy B-roll and music
All the more to get the koyo and trans cooler in my ej255 🤩
Get yourself a pneumatic bleeder! Great video
Correct me if I’m wrong but don’t you need to retune after a intercooler install?
Great video btw!
Might be a good idea, not sure if it's a must. Will depend based on your car and mods for sure
you seem uncertain or timid about this video lol be confident! there's no shame in showing the mods to your car. its kinda like vloging but there's nothing wrong with that. you give great content and provided helpful information bro. it's not as theatrical and exciting like your other videos but this is still good stuff. i like it.
and as always, EXCELLENT editing too
When is the Miata and civic road trip video coming out?
What I need the most is a garage to do all these upgrades, day and night
suggestion: if your going to be exchanging the brake fluid often, spend the 120.00 and purchase a cal-van pressure bleeder. makes bleeding brakes a 1 man job and you really get all the old fluid out with very little chase of air getting in. a good rule of thumb for pressure bleeding is 30psi (2bar)
Great track prep video! I will be going on a track day soon so thank you for the tips!
1:26 your wheels like little cracking dude
asian ben's videos are always to the point. i like that
This is exactly the type of video I’ve been waiting for someone to make, in depth and actually cover everything. Most videos will miss a lot of things or don’t explain things fully and it’s always annoyed me. Thank you
Distilled water.....no coolant on the track
I just clicked because I drive an evo 8.
you forgot about checking your suspension, you should review the car's manual on the torque of every bolt in all of the suspension components and torque them to spec if not change them... The suspension takes a lot of stress when preforming Especially when you're using stickier tyres
It’s good to bleed brakes before each track day too