I LOVE that you can specify in the plate's menu button, object or layer for different plates, and then you get the preview for just that plate, and can click the plate's auto-arrange button and it'll push the items away from eachother the needed distances. it's SO COOL! likewise the slicer can auto arrange by color for you if you have many items withe different colors that have some same colors, grouping up the same color plates and then doing 'by object' for the different color items on a plate.
Hey if you don't mind I'm new to it all but what is meant when you say "plates" like in slicer you can "select all" or "select plate" ? Are they referring to the heating plate like the bed like are there different type hot plates or is that a coined term for the object or part of.
I am watching just because you are so awesome! And I'm calling my mother to let her know about your channel, too. Though I dont' have a Bambu, I am fascinated by them and I never knew about the AMS backup filament feature. This is a good video 👍
Well thank you all around. Thank you for the good words about the channel, for watching the video and for being part of my jokes. Glad to have viewers like you!
Imho the most interesting feature of the AMS is reducing the workload of the extruder. The feeder inside the AMS pulls the filament from the spool, through the hub and the buffer. Inside the buffer is a spring, a slider, a magnet and a hall-effect sensor. If the AMS-Feeder pushes the filament, but the extruder does not need it at the moment, the spring in the buffer gets compressed, the slider (with the magnet inside) moves and the hall-sensor detects it, stopping the AMS-feeder untill the slider moves back again after the extruder used some filament. This way the extruder actually only has to extrude the filament, but not have to pull it from the spool. Wich reduces the load for the extruder. The extrusion gets more smooth. I realy like this function.
@@davetriesthis Actually I do not even have a Bambulab X1C,P1S or P1S - I just ordered the "Filament Buffer" as a replacement part to reverse engeneer the function. I somtime had inconsistent extrusion printing directly from filament dryers with printers like the Prusa Mini, esp. using DirectDrive, due to smal extruder motor and some friction in the filament dryer and reverse bowden. As I saw the first videos about the X1c with AMS, I was instantly fascinated by the "Filament Buffer" and ordered it as a replacement. After disassembling the function was obvious. Actually I think about building an external filament feeder using this method just to solve the problem of printing from dryboxes through longer reverse bowden. And maybe even with bigger spools. Actually using DC motors for the AMS-Feeders like bambu does is the most easy way to synchronise - a DC Motor can be connected by a Double-H-Bridge and speed is controlled by PWM. So to change the speed, you only have to set the PWM value of one output (same as controlling fan speed) and another pin is used to set direction. So the electronics for DIY should be quite simple. Two weeks ago I got an A1 with AMS light. The hub for 4 filaments on top of the extruder also contains a magnet; the hall sensor for it is inside the printhead. This top is also available as replacement part - and it is very cheap. It might be possible to use it for an diy filament changer...
Oh that's cool. I had issues with dry boxes and other printers too. Especially since most have holes at the top but that's not the most useful place always. For me the AMS is a good enough dry box though I'd really like one that's for 3kg spools that I could use. The cost savings of a 3k roll is really nice.
Wow.. The multi-spool filament-run-out tip is worth the price of the AMS system itself. I've lost sooo many hours on wasted parts that ran out of filament near the end of the print, making me start all over again. This tactic moves the Bambu Printers up a full notch toward me buying one. Thanks!
@@davetriesthis I got it and it’s a beast I love it! Good prints. The only issue I had was when using ender brand pla. It jammed once in the AMS I think it’s probably just the cheap roll (flimsy plastic) they use. Bambu isn’t much more expensive I will just buy it and if I use and other brands I will use the spool holder or just run it out of my heater.
AMS was the selling point for me to get a p1s as a second printer. First one was a prusa mk4, and I gotta say I should’ve gotten the p1s to begin with.
I have 2 ams. I really value the ability to switch between pla+, asa, petg and have it constantly dry and ready. Allows for faster and less effortfull access. I don't print 2 colors generally
Hi Dave, i just bought my first 3d printer ever about 2 weeks ago and it's going great. i have alot to learn but i purchased a Bambu Lab X1C and AMS for my first system so that a Noob can print to from the start with things like Auto bed leveling - Ai detection, Et cetera. What i don't understand is a whole other aspects of the printing and selling business. You print star wars stuff and sell it on etsy. I understand it's probably "fan made" , but can you just sell star wars stuff, pokemon, marvel and all that stuff, without Disney or Pokemon saying - you can give your revenue to me because of copyright infringement? How does this work and how do you handle this situation?
Can a single spool hung on the back of a P1S be used together with the AMS system? It would be nice to have a way to use spools that don't fit in the AMS.
Remember the support filament is only supposed to be used for the interface layer of your supports and your print. The rest of the support can be anything. You shouldn't burn through 500g of support filament fast unless you overuse supports, use the support filament incorrectly or you just print all the time.
You certainly don't need it. I'm just a humble wannabe maker. I don't care about the color of my prints most of the time. With that said, I have the AMS, and I love it for every reason that was mentioned in this video. It's really nice to have. Plus every once and a while you might want to do a multicolored print. Or print 2 separate parts in a diff color, but on the same job.
the funny thing is there is 2-3 dry box designs on makerworld, one of which cant be printed on the mini, one being mostly aluminium and another being just an ikea box with holes. that would certainly make it a bit more reasoble to keep dry
I used the heck out of the PLA Support material that came with my P1S+AMS but after running out and getting sticker shock for a new spool, found out that using PETG with PLA or PLA with PETG as support interfaces seemed to work just as well. That said, as long as you're only using the PLA support as the support interface and orienting parts to minimize how often you need to purge, a PLA Support spool could last a hell of a long time. I just happened to have enough PETG on hand that I use that instead.
I had a section I cut from the video about doing petg and pla for supports but figured it might make a better separate video or a Short since it takes some fiddling to work really well. But now I think maybe I should have mentioned it at least.
I’m thinking of getting the P1S with the AMS and was curious what else it could do. Currently just have a SV06 and have a lot of end of spools that I don’t trust to last through a print.
I was hesitant about buying the ams lite with my A1 order. Since I want to use mostly black & grey elegoo pla exactly as you are and want to get rid of all possible cause of failed prints I will go for it. I'm right on your tracks :)
Hey Dave, really enjoy the channel. I'd like your opinion on something if possible. So I have the A1 mini combo still sealed, as I was waiting to finish up my workspace before unboxing it. I have three or four days left in my return window. As I'm sure you already know, yesterday bambulabs broke the news that they will soon be releasing the A1 standard. Which is basically of similar design and quality to the A1 mini however it has a larger bed plate, in a more common and standard size. From what I've been reading and hearing the A1 standard is going to be about $100 more in price compared to the mini. So now I'm debating if I should return my mini and pay an extra $100 for the A1 standard combo or just keep the mini. I'm not sure if I'll have to pay the return shipping, but I imagine so. So that's an extra cost. I also got the A1 mini mega combo that came with the extra nozzles and bed plate. Odds are I could keep the nozzles and reuse them, but the extra bed plate won't be of much use. Though that's not a huge loss. Given that this is my first and only 3D printer part of me does think that the exchange makes sense. However I'm honestly not sure how much of a difference it will ultimately make in actual usage. If I would have known about the A1 standard, I probably would have just held out for that, as the bed plate size was one of my initial concerns with the mini. Either way I'm getting the AMS, and your video helped solidify why it's worth it. If you have any thoughts or opinions between the A1 mini and the soon to be released A1 standard I'd love to hear them. They are both bedslingers but of different designs, but I honestly don't know how much of a difference it actually makes in this particular case. Any and all feedback is much appreciated, much loving gratitude.
Great questions all around. I'm a bit surprised they decided to announce this one so close to the mini, especially with the holiday season, which they're obviously calling attention to in their teaser. I hope they have a warehouse full of these. I'd definitely in your case get the standard size one. Even if you had to pay the return shipping fee. But since you're in the window I'd talk to them and see what they can do about that. You're giving them more money for another product so would hopefully comp the shipping. In this is your first printer I'd go for the standard one. I mean if you told me you got it for your kid or you didn't care about bed size that would be one thing but in this case you're getting it and the size was already a concern. And thank you much for the kind wishes. All the best to you too!
@@davetriesthis Sincerely appreciate the detailed reply. You pretty much confirmed my thinking on the situation as well. So I contacted bambu on the 6th or 7th & haven't received a reply yet. But I did make explicit note that I'm contacting them with 4 days left in the return window, as I know they are backed up and didn't want to end up being told I'm outside the return window because of a late reply. My only concern is at this point if they open sales up for the A1 standard before I send the mini back, how will I be able to use the exchange credit. I did point this out to them so hopefully they can put a pre order on hold status while the exchange process unfolds without charging the card again, but I'm not sure if that will work, I guess I'll have to wait and see what they say. I've definitely been tempted a bit to keep the mini as I really want to start printing stuff, lol. I do also have 2 teenage daughters who want to print stuff as well, but they're cool with waiting if it makes-sense. I actually bought this enclosure for my mini, hoping it's going to be workable with the standard, assuming I do the exchange. (Not an affiliate link or anything) SainSmart Large 3D Printer Enclosure, 20.9'' x 24.2" x 28.9", Dust-Proof Cover Tent, for Ender-3 Series, Ender-5 Pro with Spare Filament Holder, Tool Pockets and Slots, Constant Temp and Less Noise a.co/d/5V2UwVe My work space is on the cool side so I figured something to control surrounding airflow and temp is prolly worthwhile. I am also a bit curious if anyone has had any success with any of the non recommended materials like ABS using an enclosure and the hardened nozzles with the A1 mini since it apparently already has a hardened gear set by default. (Might be a content idea worth pursuing btw, as I'm sure at least a few people are wondering how much they can push the A1 line.) From what I gather the biggest roadblock is bed temperature assuming one is utilizing an enclosure. I've seen a few posts say that using an enclosure might raise the overall temp enough to make the bed temperature a non issue. Personally I don't think I'll do a ton of abs anyway but i do plan to lean into functional part development so it would be a nice option to have. Again love the channel and appreciate the content and feedback. As a creative type with a propensity for problem solving, me and 3D printing fit like a hand to a glove. I've looked at the space off and on for a few a years and got close to jumping in twice before, but I really wasn't looking to tinker and problem solve working with printers themselves, so I really appreciate bambulabs moving the goalposts on the expected user experience. Again appreciate the content and reply, much love and gratitude.
So I was saving up to get the P1s for exactly this reason. I live in an older house that gets a bit damp on the winter. My issue is now the price of the A1 is so much cheaper. Is a closer ams or the core xy really worth that much extra to me🤷🏻♂️
The P1S is worth it over the A1. It's nice knowing that if you ever want to try something new by exploring different filaments, it's already set up for you with the enclosure. The USA bambu website also offers payment plans via PayPal and Klarna. So you can just budget that money instead of dropping it all in one shot. I can't imagine someone not feeling like they made the right choice after purchasing a P1S. It's an amazing machine.
I have 2 p1s printers and I have never been able to pause and resume a print successfully. There's always a line. I may need to adjust my belts better something, idk, everyone else seems to have so much success with it but for me it just never works out. Not sure if it's better with AMS tho
If there's a long time between pausing and starting it can cause a line because of the way the filament gets fully cooled before the next print like. But with the ams it should automatically go from one roll to another fast enough to not cause that. Print lines often depend on the filament too.
I like you quibs and the short inserted vids. My AMS is in the box on my dinning room table. I am not going to buld a riser but a system using the classic 3D building material LUMBER. I need more space for 3D printer tools, spools, Benchys, cool looking tree supports I wan to make art with and other clutter...and the Bambu and the Prusa.
When a spool runs out, does it just start feeding the second spool and push everything through? Or does it do a extrude and replace like changing a color?
I have never watched the process but my guess is it handles it like a color change since that means they working have to program it to do anything different.
@@davetriesthis That is what I can't figure. If the filament hits the runout sensor, isn't it past any point where something can push it back? Unless there is a gear in the filament buffer just after the sensor? Well -- i'll find out... printing an AMS riser for my wife's X1 Carbon and will run out of purple PETG in the next part. Put in a second purple and set it to autoload. EDIT: Misjudged -- first spool never ran out!
lol. Well let me know when you hit the second roll. I'm interested. I guess it could do a mix of both? Pull in more filament and purge at the point at which it calculates the roll change happens. Since it know the feed rate and the amount of filament in the extruder it could pull in more when it knows it's at the end of one roll.
@@davetriesthis Well -- that was a fail. Slot 1 and 2 both had the same Bambu filament with 1 running low. It pulled the last filament off 1 and kept feeding until it threw up a filament empty error and told me to load. I moved the roll from 2 to 1 and printing started back up. I checked and the AMS was still set to move to 2 from 1. At this point, it is nothing I would trust until I see other people testing it.
@@GSJester The autoswitch over is disabled by default. To enable it go to the device tab, click the icon to the right of unload/load and tick the box. This did work for me except for a hitch with first spool where the end of filament was stuck on the spool. Once I cut it, hit resume it used up the last length, then switched over to the second spool
Well really it's a dry box not a dryer. But it's a great use. I print a ton of black filament and at some point I'm going to get another ams just to keep those ready and dry.
In the video you mentioned that both AMS systems have the ability to stop the print when a spool has stopped but I'm unsure if this is actually the case? I own a p1s with AMS and just recently I had a case of heat creep when printing PLA causing the filement to get stuck (T-shape) in the extruder. When this happened no more filament came through of course, but the printer kept going as if the filament would be coming through and I had to manually stop the machine. (Maybe this wasn't what you meant in the video but i've been in a deep-dive as of late to figure out if the AMS is indeed not able to recognise failures such as this one, via the spool having stopped for a prolonged amount of time during a print)
The and can detect the resistance when pulling filament and if it's greater than some value it stops printing. This is mostly for tangled filament detection.
Many companies follow the fair use doctrine that fan created items can be sold as long as they're not trying to make people think they're officially licensed merchandise. You can't use a shot from the films or a character's likeness for example. The things I sell are for tabletop gaming or cosplay and cosplay definitely falls under fair use. Disney is not aggressive on IP takedown requests as well. I suspect there's so much merch out there related to the sw universe that it would be hard to manage, and the scale of an Etsy store isn't their biggest issue, bootleg content, toys, shirts and other things likely are.
People have to distinguish between multi color and multi material prints. Multi color is best if a translucent filament is simply colored per layer. Multi material makes most sense for different material properties. Those two always get mixed up the the "material property" (color) takes over, I really don´t like that development and hope Bambu will fix this.
@@davetriesthis Multi color prints = Material does not matter only the color, it does not make sense to use 280 filament rolls all of different color. It makes sense to use ONE transparent filament and simply color it in when and where needed. Multi material print = printing with different material into one object. Here multiple rolls of filament make sense, Hard material + soft material + support material for instance. Each material has a different property to it besides the color. What people do is they use multiple material systems but in the end they print with the same type of material just the color differs. But they do this because there is no true multi color or full color printing system which works reliably, davinci printer tried this and they faild, that´s it. So I hope bambu will take this task over and develop finally a solution for multi color print instead of misusing multi material print for it´s ability to also print different colors.
I LOVE that you can specify in the plate's menu button, object or layer for different plates, and then you get the preview for just that plate, and can click the plate's auto-arrange button and it'll push the items away from eachother the needed distances. it's SO COOL! likewise the slicer can auto arrange by color for you if you have many items withe different colors that have some same colors, grouping up the same color plates and then doing 'by object' for the different color items on a plate.
Oh I didn't know about auto grouping by color. Where is that? That's amazing.
Hey if you don't mind I'm new to it all but what is meant when you say "plates" like in slicer you can "select all" or "select plate" ? Are they referring to the heating plate like the bed like are there different type hot plates or is that a coined term for the object or part of.
I am watching just because you are so awesome! And I'm calling my mother to let her know about your channel, too. Though I dont' have a Bambu, I am fascinated by them and I never knew about the AMS backup filament feature. This is a good video 👍
Well thank you all around. Thank you for the good words about the channel, for watching the video and for being part of my jokes. Glad to have viewers like you!
Love my AMS, I have 1 spool of PETG and use it as support but only on the interface layer.
I appreciate your humorous commentary!
Imho the most interesting feature of the AMS is reducing the workload of the extruder.
The feeder inside the AMS pulls the filament from the spool, through the hub and the buffer. Inside the buffer is a spring, a slider, a magnet and a hall-effect sensor. If the AMS-Feeder pushes the filament, but the extruder does not need it at the moment, the spring in the buffer gets compressed, the slider (with the magnet inside) moves and the hall-sensor detects it, stopping the AMS-feeder untill the slider moves back again after the extruder used some filament.
This way the extruder actually only has to extrude the filament, but not have to pull it from the spool. Wich reduces the load for the extruder. The extrusion gets more smooth. I realy like this function.
Oh I had no idea! Thanks for sharing that.
@@davetriesthis Actually I do not even have a Bambulab X1C,P1S or P1S - I just ordered the "Filament Buffer" as a replacement part to reverse engeneer the function.
I somtime had inconsistent extrusion printing directly from filament dryers with printers like the Prusa Mini, esp. using DirectDrive, due to smal extruder motor and some friction in the filament dryer and reverse bowden. As I saw the first videos about the X1c with AMS, I was instantly fascinated by the "Filament Buffer" and ordered it as a replacement. After disassembling the function was obvious.
Actually I think about building an external filament feeder using this method just to solve the problem of printing from dryboxes through longer reverse bowden. And maybe even with bigger spools.
Actually using DC motors for the AMS-Feeders like bambu does is the most easy way to synchronise - a DC Motor can be connected by a Double-H-Bridge and speed is controlled by PWM. So to change the speed, you only have to set the PWM value of one output (same as controlling fan speed) and another pin is used to set direction.
So the electronics for DIY should be quite simple.
Two weeks ago I got an A1 with AMS light. The hub for 4 filaments on top of the extruder also contains a magnet; the hall sensor for it is inside the printhead. This top is also available as replacement part - and it is very cheap. It might be possible to use it for an diy filament changer...
Oh that's cool. I had issues with dry boxes and other printers too. Especially since most have holes at the top but that's not the most useful place always.
For me the AMS is a good enough dry box though I'd really like one that's for 3kg spools that I could use. The cost savings of a 3k roll is really nice.
I just picked up an AMS unit this week, that print by object tip is going to get a ton of use from me. Thanks for the video!
The 2 different colored objects without out switching filaments every layer is gold!!!!!!! Thank you!!
You're welcome. That's saved me a ton of filament.
Yes. Just cause you’re awesome.
You are too Adam!!!! Come visit us and we can tell each other how awsome we are!!!! Gooooooooo FDU!!!
same here
Wow.. The multi-spool filament-run-out tip is worth the price of the AMS system itself. I've lost sooo many hours on wasted parts that ran out of filament near the end of the print, making me start all over again. This tactic moves the Bambu Printers up a full notch toward me buying one. Thanks!
I agree. The first day I came to the printers in the morning to find it had gone from one roll to the next was awesome.
Watching because you plugged in the Reddit link. Awesome.
Thanks lord noodles!!
Thanks Dave, I'm getting AMS lite for the exact same reasons!
Yes you are awesome and thanks for the info! I ordered the bambu P1S with the AMS combo! Cant wait to use this beast! I only really use pla
Hope you enjoy it!
@@davetriesthis I got it and it’s a beast I love it! Good prints. The only issue I had was when using ender brand pla. It jammed once in the AMS I think it’s probably just the cheap roll (flimsy plastic) they use. Bambu isn’t much more expensive I will just buy it and if I use and other brands I will use the spool holder or just run it out of my heater.
Thinking about getting a Bambu printer. Got to borrow a creality from a friend and got hooked to the hobby! Thanks for the great review and tips.
Go for it! You'll love it. And use the affiliate links in the description if you can. :)
I’m just here to get the low down on the ams and it’s advantages. Although I did found out you are pretty awesome.
Thanks mate! Hope the video helped.
AMS was the selling point for me to get a p1s as a second printer.
First one was a prusa mk4, and I gotta say I should’ve gotten the p1s to begin with.
I have 2 ams. I really value the ability to switch between pla+, asa, petg and have it constantly dry and ready. Allows for faster and less effortfull access. I don't print 2 colors generally
If my Etsy orders pick up I'm going to grab another AMS.
you are awesome. first timer here
Thanks and welcome. Much appreciate!
i subscribed because you are awesome.
your comedic flair paired with your bored-ish tone is great
Great vid!!
I have 2 ams's and a a-1 mini combo. Bambu's are amazing
I've been very impressed with their tools so far. :)
Great stuff! I’m learning all this with my new AMS
It's a lot of fun to use right?
Hi Dave, i just bought my first 3d printer ever about 2 weeks ago and it's going great. i have alot to learn but i purchased a Bambu Lab X1C and AMS for my first system so that a Noob can print to from the start with things like Auto bed leveling - Ai detection, Et cetera. What i don't understand is a whole other aspects of the printing and selling business. You print star wars stuff and sell it on etsy. I understand it's probably "fan made" , but can you just sell star wars stuff, pokemon, marvel and all that stuff, without Disney or Pokemon saying - you can give your revenue to me because of copyright infringement? How does this work and how do you handle this situation?
Can a single spool hung on the back of a P1S be used together with the AMS system? It would be nice to have a way to use spools that don't fit in the AMS.
It cannot. The ams replaces the normal tube connector on the back for the ams.
Informative and funny. Need more like these.
Thanks, you made my day!
Mostly awesome but now that I found you, I’ll be back often.
Great! Thanks!
AWESOME! Thanks!
You're welcome!
Hi. Great video. I tried looking at your Etsy shop, but the link comes back as page not found. Do you have a different link?
Thanks for the compliment and the heads up it doesn't work. Try this daveprintsthis.etsy.com
Remember the support filament is only supposed to be used for the interface layer of your supports and your print. The rest of the support can be anything. You shouldn't burn through 500g of support filament fast unless you overuse supports, use the support filament incorrectly or you just print all the time.
I see everyone talking about the combo, but for a hobby printer, do I really need the AMS?
You certainly don't need it. I'm just a humble wannabe maker. I don't care about the color of my prints most of the time.
With that said, I have the AMS, and I love it for every reason that was mentioned in this video. It's really nice to have. Plus every once and a while you might want to do a multicolored print. Or print 2 separate parts in a diff color, but on the same job.
@@DoggMatik I ended up getting it, and I also like it for the options.
Great video! Thanks Dave
Thank you so much for taking the time to say that! You made my day.
the funny thing is there is 2-3 dry box designs on makerworld, one of which cant be printed on the mini, one being mostly aluminium and another being just an ikea box with holes. that would certainly make it a bit more reasoble to keep dry
Dave, awesome job!
Thanks!! I appreciate it.
A few great tips, thank you.
Glad it was helpful! That really made my day.
I used the heck out of the PLA Support material that came with my P1S+AMS but after running out and getting sticker shock for a new spool, found out that using PETG with PLA or PLA with PETG as support interfaces seemed to work just as well.
That said, as long as you're only using the PLA support as the support interface and orienting parts to minimize how often you need to purge, a PLA Support spool could last a hell of a long time. I just happened to have enough PETG on hand that I use that instead.
I had a section I cut from the video about doing petg and pla for supports but figured it might make a better separate video or a Short since it takes some fiddling to work really well. But now I think maybe I should have mentioned it at least.
@@davetriesthisyep I was missing that too
What a bloody excellent video. Thanks
Wow. Thanks so much!
Great video! To the point and humorous :)
Hey, thanks!
I’m thinking of getting the P1S with the AMS and was curious what else it could do. Currently just have a SV06 and have a lot of end of spools that I don’t trust to last through a print.
You might make back the money in saved filament for the AMS :)
I was hesitant about buying the ams lite with my A1 order. Since I want to use mostly black & grey elegoo pla exactly as you are and want to get rid of all possible cause of failed prints I will go for it. I'm right on your tracks :)
Sorry for late reply. Just catching up. Good to hear it. Did you get it?
Hey Dave, really enjoy the channel. I'd like your opinion on something if possible.
So I have the A1 mini combo still sealed, as I was waiting to finish up my workspace before unboxing it.
I have three or four days left in my return window. As I'm sure you already know, yesterday bambulabs broke the news that they will soon be releasing the A1 standard.
Which is basically of similar design and quality to the A1 mini however it has a larger bed plate, in a more common and standard size.
From what I've been reading and hearing the A1 standard is going to be about $100 more in price compared to the mini.
So now I'm debating if I should return my mini and pay an extra $100 for the A1 standard combo or just keep the mini.
I'm not sure if I'll have to pay the return shipping, but I imagine so. So that's an extra cost. I also got the A1 mini mega combo that came with the extra nozzles and bed plate. Odds are I could keep the nozzles and reuse them, but the extra bed plate won't be of much use. Though that's not a huge loss.
Given that this is my first and only 3D printer part of me does think that the exchange makes sense. However I'm honestly not sure how much of a difference it will ultimately make in actual usage.
If I would have known about the A1 standard, I probably would have just held out for that, as the bed plate size was one of my initial concerns with the mini.
Either way I'm getting the AMS, and your video helped solidify why it's worth it.
If you have any thoughts or opinions between the A1 mini and the soon to be released A1 standard I'd love to hear them.
They are both bedslingers but of different designs, but I honestly don't know how much of a difference it actually makes in this particular case.
Any and all feedback is much appreciated, much loving gratitude.
Great questions all around. I'm a bit surprised they decided to announce this one so close to the mini, especially with the holiday season, which they're obviously calling attention to in their teaser. I hope they have a warehouse full of these.
I'd definitely in your case get the standard size one. Even if you had to pay the return shipping fee. But since you're in the window I'd talk to them and see what they can do about that. You're giving them more money for another product so would hopefully comp the shipping.
In this is your first printer I'd go for the standard one. I mean if you told me you got it for your kid or you didn't care about bed size that would be one thing but in this case you're getting it and the size was already a concern.
And thank you much for the kind wishes. All the best to you too!
@@davetriesthis Sincerely appreciate the detailed reply. You pretty much confirmed my thinking on the situation as well. So I contacted bambu on the 6th or 7th & haven't received a reply yet.
But I did make explicit note that I'm contacting them with 4 days left in the return window, as I know they are backed up and didn't want to end up being told I'm outside the return window because of a late reply. My only concern is at this point if they open sales up for the A1 standard before I send the mini back, how will I be able to use the exchange credit.
I did point this out to them so hopefully they can put a pre order on hold status while the exchange process unfolds without charging the card again, but I'm not sure if that will work, I guess I'll have to wait and see what they say.
I've definitely been tempted a bit to keep the mini as I really want to start printing stuff, lol. I do also have 2 teenage daughters who want to print stuff as well, but they're cool with waiting if it makes-sense.
I actually bought this enclosure for my mini, hoping it's going to be workable with the standard, assuming I do the exchange.
(Not an affiliate link or anything)
SainSmart Large 3D Printer Enclosure, 20.9'' x 24.2" x 28.9", Dust-Proof Cover Tent, for Ender-3 Series, Ender-5 Pro with Spare Filament Holder, Tool Pockets and Slots, Constant Temp and Less Noise a.co/d/5V2UwVe
My work space is on the cool side so I figured something to control surrounding airflow and temp is prolly worthwhile. I am also a bit curious if anyone has had any success with any of the non recommended materials like ABS using an enclosure and the hardened nozzles with the A1 mini since it apparently already has a hardened gear set by default.
(Might be a content idea worth pursuing btw, as I'm sure at least a few people are wondering how much they can push the A1 line.)
From what I gather the biggest roadblock is bed temperature assuming one is utilizing an enclosure. I've seen a few posts say that using an enclosure might raise the overall temp enough to make the bed temperature a non issue.
Personally I don't think I'll do a ton of abs anyway but i do plan to lean into functional part development so it would be a nice option to have.
Again love the channel and appreciate the content and feedback.
As a creative type with a propensity for problem solving, me and 3D printing fit like a hand to a glove. I've looked at the space off and on for a few a years and got close to jumping in twice before, but I really wasn't looking to tinker and problem solve working with printers themselves, so I really appreciate bambulabs moving the goalposts on the expected user experience.
Again appreciate the content and reply, much love and gratitude.
Excellent explanation 👍
Glad it was helpful!
i think that you are awesome~!
But i also have a chance to buy one of these for 100$.. I think you've convinced me!
l love how well put this video is. Ur amazing for putting som jokes in the video, i really enjoyed watching this
Thank you so much! That made my day.
@@davetriesthis dude I love your channel
I'm just watching because you have a great name.
Hey you too I see!!
Great video!
Thanks! That means a lot.
Where is your Etsy store? I followed the link but it said page wasn't available
Thanks I'll fix that. Probably because the store name was changed after I posted that.
www.etsy.com/shop/daveprintsthis/
Which pla do you use? I don't see the Amazon store
Oops maybe I didn't put the links in thanks for that. Here's the gray though it's black I use most of. amzn.to/48eoCvD
So I was saving up to get the P1s for exactly this reason. I live in an older house that gets a bit damp on the winter. My issue is now the price of the A1 is so much cheaper. Is a closer ams or the core xy really worth that much extra to me🤷🏻♂️
I guess if you're saving enough to buy a dry box....still the p1 is the best printer I have. I would get it over the a1 just because it's rock solid.
The P1S is worth it over the A1. It's nice knowing that if you ever want to try something new by exploring different filaments, it's already set up for you with the enclosure.
The USA bambu website also offers payment plans via PayPal and Klarna. So you can just budget that money instead of dropping it all in one shot.
I can't imagine someone not feeling like they made the right choice after purchasing a P1S. It's an amazing machine.
I have 2 p1s printers and I have never been able to pause and resume a print successfully. There's always a line. I may need to adjust my belts better something, idk, everyone else seems to have so much success with it but for me it just never works out. Not sure if it's better with AMS tho
If there's a long time between pausing and starting it can cause a line because of the way the filament gets fully cooled before the next print like. But with the ams it should automatically go from one roll to another fast enough to not cause that.
Print lines often depend on the filament too.
I like you quibs and the short inserted vids. My AMS is in the box on my dinning room table. I am not going to buld a riser but a system using the classic 3D building material LUMBER. I need more space for 3D printer tools, spools, Benchys, cool looking tree supports I wan to make art with and other clutter...and the Bambu and the Prusa.
I recommend melamine tops. Mine are white and that makes it easy to see filament on it. Also easier to clean than a ply or hardwood top
the like and subscribe thing killed me!, earned both
lol. Thanks!!!
😂😂😂yes I wish I taste silica gel because I am not suppose to eat. You are right 😂😂😂
It's a weird human compulsion.
Man I thought my cats were fighting, but it was just the ghost dog.
Ghost Dog ftw
When a spool runs out, does it just start feeding the second spool and push everything through? Or does it do a extrude and replace like changing a color?
I have never watched the process but my guess is it handles it like a color change since that means they working have to program it to do anything different.
@@davetriesthis That is what I can't figure. If the filament hits the runout sensor, isn't it past any point where something can push it back? Unless there is a gear in the filament buffer just after the sensor?
Well -- i'll find out... printing an AMS riser for my wife's X1 Carbon and will run out of purple PETG in the next part. Put in a second purple and set it to autoload.
EDIT: Misjudged -- first spool never ran out!
lol. Well let me know when you hit the second roll. I'm interested. I guess it could do a mix of both? Pull in more filament and purge at the point at which it calculates the roll change happens. Since it know the feed rate and the amount of filament in the extruder it could pull in more when it knows it's at the end of one roll.
@@davetriesthis Well -- that was a fail. Slot 1 and 2 both had the same Bambu filament with 1 running low. It pulled the last filament off 1 and kept feeding until it threw up a filament empty error and told me to load. I moved the roll from 2 to 1 and printing started back up.
I checked and the AMS was still set to move to 2 from 1.
At this point, it is nothing I would trust until I see other people testing it.
@@GSJester The autoswitch over is disabled by default. To enable it go to the device tab, click the icon to the right of unload/load and tick the box.
This did work for me except for a hitch with first spool where the end of filament was stuck on the spool. Once I cut it, hit resume it used up the last length, then switched over to the second spool
You are awesome! 😁
Hooray! Thanks for that!
You are so awesome.
Thank you for the comment and for following my request!!!
I think you are awesome.. but great tips as well.
Thank you!!!
filament dryer... interesting
Well really it's a dry box not a dryer. But it's a great use. I print a ton of black filament and at some point I'm going to get another ams just to keep those ready and dry.
@@davetriesthis was talking about the SUNLU Filament Dryer at 4:00
Looking at geting a P1S when i get tax return lol
Cardboard spool?
Would you prefer moist cake, or damp cake?
Should answer your question.
lol. That's great.
question: do you need to buy the ams, lr is it possible to create one yourself?
You definitely need to buy it. It's a fully integrated part of the system.
Just watching cause I thought you looked like you'd be awesome. I was right. You were.
Wow. Thanks!!
You're funny sir :D
Thanks much!!
In the video you mentioned that both AMS systems have the ability to stop the print when a spool has stopped but I'm unsure if this is actually the case? I own a p1s with AMS and just recently I had a case of heat creep when printing PLA causing the filement to get stuck (T-shape) in the extruder. When this happened no more filament came through of course, but the printer kept going as if the filament would be coming through and I had to manually stop the machine. (Maybe this wasn't what you meant in the video but i've been in a deep-dive as of late to figure out if the AMS is indeed not able to recognise failures such as this one, via the spool having stopped for a prolonged amount of time during a print)
The and can detect the resistance when pulling filament and if it's greater than some value it stops printing. This is mostly for tangled filament detection.
how can you legally sell star wars intellectual propertes withouth getting in trouble?
Many companies follow the fair use doctrine that fan created items can be sold as long as they're not trying to make people think they're officially licensed merchandise. You can't use a shot from the films or a character's likeness for example. The things I sell are for tabletop gaming or cosplay and cosplay definitely falls under fair use.
Disney is not aggressive on IP takedown requests as well. I suspect there's so much merch out there related to the sw universe that it would be hard to manage, and the scale of an Etsy store isn't their biggest issue, bootleg content, toys, shirts and other things likely are.
People have to distinguish between multi color and multi material prints. Multi color is best if a translucent filament is simply colored per layer. Multi material makes most sense for different material properties. Those two always get mixed up the the "material property" (color) takes over, I really don´t like that development and hope Bambu will fix this.
I'm unclear, what should Bambu fix? The ams stands for Automated Material System. It's users that aren't using it for the true purposes. :)
@@davetriesthis Multi color prints = Material does not matter only the color, it does not make sense to use 280 filament rolls all of different color. It makes sense to use ONE transparent filament and simply color it in when and where needed.
Multi material print = printing with different material into one object. Here multiple rolls of filament make sense, Hard material + soft material + support material for instance. Each material has a different property to it besides the color.
What people do is they use multiple material systems but in the end they print with the same type of material just the color differs. But they do this because there is no true multi color or full color printing system which works reliably, davinci printer tried this and they faild, that´s it. So I hope bambu will take this task over and develop finally a solution for multi color print instead of misusing multi material print for it´s ability to also print different colors.
stop trying to be funny
Stop trying to be in charge.