The best upgrades for your Bambu Lab 3D printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ค. 2024
- Check out my 2nd channel, TT Racing: / @ttracingyt
Bambu Lab 3D printers have secured a strong market share by being reliable, fast and producing high quality prints. Over time, 3rd party products and community generated mods have been created, which I showcase to you in this video. A big thanks to my patrons for assisting in preparing the list.
Let me know what great upgrades I’ve missed in the comments.
Purchase the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon (affiliate): shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235382...
Purchase the Bambu Lab P1P (affiliate): shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235472...
0:00 Introduction
0:52 Slicer
Simplify3D: www.simplify3d.com
OrcaSlicer: github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer
My previous OrcaSlicer video: • Bambu Studio OrcaSlice...
3:08 Printhead PTFE guide
Bambu X1 PTFE Extruder Bracket AMS Error Fix by OurAngryBadger: www.printables.com/model/3380...
4:29 Beds
Note - I didn't have any warnings when using a non Bambu Lab bed, but others have. Thankfully, good solutions exist: www.printables.com/model/4328...
Bambu Lab textured PEI sheet: bit.ly/3qLq2gk
Wham Bam Bambu Lab bed: bit.ly/3Nqb4Fx
PEO patterned bed on Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCT...
Garolite G10 bed for BL printers: vpsdata.shop/vps-data/x1-and-...
VisionMiner Nano Polymer Adhesive: visionminer.com/products/nano...
Dimafix bed adhesion pen: x3d.com.au/products/dimafix-p...
Print in Place Engine by SunShine: www.printables.com/model/2129...
Flexi seahorse by Miranda P: www.printables.com/model/5038...
7:47 AMS
PTFE tube removal button by STprinting: www.printables.com/model/2723...
Bambu AMS disconnect tool by Jody: www.printables.com/en/model/3...
10:00 Printing from external filament plus AMS
Bowden tube Y splitter by Robert: www.printables.com/model/3568...
XYZ 20mm calibration cube by iDig3Dprinting: www.thingiverse.com/thing:127...
12:05 Filament spool transfer
Bambu Lab P1 / X1 / X1C / X1CC Filament Spool Switcher & Winder by Miklos Kiszely: www.printables.com/model/4076...
Spoolwinder_remix_x3 by Nafker: www.thingiverse.com/thing:606...
13:55 Poop chute
Bambu Poop Chute by Fantasy3DPrintsShop: www.printables.com/model/4613...
14:42 Filament dryer
15:32 Conclusion
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
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Hi Michael,
Just wanted to thank you again. My class just won a competition run by CITB and Makers Empire 3D. It’s a first for me and your videos helped me develop some design sense which came in handy with our solution.
I have watched many videos of yours, I was surprised to see you mention my bowden tube splitter. Thanks for the mention. I always like seeing that other people find my parts useful.
The Bambulab spool switcher & winder is great. I printed it not because I have an AMS or a Bambulab printer but because sometimes the rolls of filaments I use come badly winded.
You can use your own hand and no drill. You get better control. And there are a ton of mods for that model, which greatly increases its performance and ease of use.
excellent video ive seen a few videos like this. but something about this one really felt very useful. No filler and direct. Keep up the good work. gonna checkout your race channel!
Thank you Michael, Great video as Always.
For super good prints with ABS or ASA I use the following settings on the bambu Lap X1
Nozzle temperature to 260 for the first layer and the remaining layers 270.
-max flow of 12 mm3/s
-an extrusion multiplier of 1.0 fits better than the default values of 0.95
-fan speed normal layers 20% to 40% overhangs 40% to 60%
-Speed for the first layer 75mm/s
-110 degrees bed temperature
-high temperature board or textured board
-For very large prints add a bit of 3D Lac
Thank you for this info 🤘🤘My P1S is shipping and I will print a ton of ASA with it! Assuming it will convert to the P1S; I think the bed temp is max 100° but not positive.
Outstanding super good video, thank you.
The best adhesive I have used is 3DLAC! Spray on and use on cool plate or hot plate! Best product ever!
I didn't have anything else on hand, so I tried clear Elmer's glue, and it has never failed. I can print tall objects with a tiny footprint and no brim. Works every time.
I love 3dlac too. So easy.
I find 3DLac doesn't adhere abs and ASA adequately. Filaform Adhesive Spray have an extra strong variant for a very similar price and works wonders for high temp adhesion
@@MrStolenakount 3dlac has two variations too, i use the 3dlac plus for abs and Asa and it works wonderfully for me.
Only needed on Bad plates
Thanks for this Video 😊
For the Y splitter for the external filiment feeding, I found a version I really like that has an M3 mounting hole so you can remove one of the panel screws and replace it with a longer one, holding the splitter in place.
ive made my own bed plate adhesive by mixing ipa with gluestick, works wonders!
Vision Miner's adhesive is amazing. I use it for work, where I just don't have time to mess with iffy first layers. I've been trying to tell people about it for years!
Excellent content
Very helpful video
Ive printed ASA on glass by using a trick id seen for ABS, I have a jar that i have melted scraps from failed ASA prints with acetone, brush a thin layer down onto the bed, removes pretty clean and I haven't had any issues with adhesion.
Abs slurry is a really old and effective trick, but too messy for me.
For using the glue - simply make an X with the glue stick, then spray on some IPA and wipe the bed with it. This will leave a residue that works perfectly and after the print, you simply spray IPA on it again and it's good for another print. That way you only have to apply the glue stick every 4-5 prints. It's shown in this video th-cam.com/video/XpHkPJgKkew/w-d-xo.html
I do the same. I just wipe the IPA around with a clean hand until its nicely smeared all over and even.
When you said IPA I thought you were talking about beer. Good thing you added a link to a video! :)
Just stick glue + water
I never had a failed print on my P1S until I tried printing with Bambu's own PAHT-CF (carbon fiber nylon) filament and using their own profile. I lost dozens of hours and about half a kilo of the outrageously expensive filament before finally buying their high temp smooth plate and glue stick. I haven't lost a print since.. I do recommend getting AMS and some of their support specific filament which will help immensely with your parts appearance and the supports are easily removed.
Before winding maybe insert the filament into a ptfe tube you can use to hold on to instead.
For catching poop chute output, I use a small cardboard box behind the printer. Quick, easy (as long as you have or can find a box to fit where you need), and it doesn't take any filament.
eggo waffle boxes fit nicely and are cheap
@bulgogiprince8625 Plus, they come with free waffles!
Leggo my Eggo!
I'm surprised you didn't include the CHT nozzle upgrade. CNC Kitchen is the only big channel I've seen cover it, but he focused on print strength improvements rather than speed results. You did a lot of work to get your RatRig speedboat under 10 minutes and it'd be interesting to see if you could now beat your time with just a stock Bambu + CHT nozzle.
A channel called BenSol has a 6:13 Benchy on P1P but I think he used Lightning infill so not a valid time for comparison.
Since print speed is a major selling point of the Bambu printers, a fairly cheap and easy upgrade than can push it even faster (especially with 0.6mm nozzle) should be a popular upgrade.
Aquanet hairspray has worked great for me for adhesion issues. Although, I only use PLA for now
THANK YOU
I hope the print head guide really works. I've been having pull back fails for months now, for every AMS print it stops several times, so I'll try that soon.
cant wait to watch
Just a heads up, Dimafix works very good but the adhesive comes off with the print, it doesn't stay on the bed. This means constant re- application. Vision Miner Nano adhesive has slightly better adhesion that Dimafix, the biggest advantage is that it l stays on the bed after the print releases instead of transferring the print, this means you can make it last a VERY long time, just spray a little isopropyl alcohol on the bed to reactivate the nano polymer. It's good stuff
There is a PET variant for the PEO sheet that works really well for nylon. Not mentioned for w/e reason though on their page.
The PTFE bracket is a nice thought, but with my X1C it hits the top of the casings rim when going to the far corners. A break failure of the toolhead is for sure a large warning.
Two more mods to add to the list are Hydra AMS (updated parts to allow for alternate spool sizes including 3DXTech 1kg spools) and Adjustable Spool Holder for Silica, both by humebeam.
I find that 3DLAC glue spray is works well with ot gunking up the plate like the glue stick.
Definitely need to do one for the P1Touch!
Assuming that is the same thing as the xTouch, I came across that by accident looking for printer mods, surprised I haven't seen a video on it at all. Especially when you see so many p1p/s reviews where the biggest complaint is the interface.
Thank you - still trying to work out if X1C or go the cheaper P1S - but your videos are great and help out a lot.
Hi. I ha the same issue, but the black friday sale helped me to pick X1C and I don't regret it.
PEI sheet works on TPU, PETG, PLA, ABS.. all have printed out amazing on my P1P.
do you think pressure advance needs to be calibrated for x1c that supposedly does that with the lidar?
thanks in advance bro!
Great video! Very informative. Can you do one for the P1P? Or at least point out which mods apply to both? 👍
😃Thanks!
We just got one of these at work for the product development guys. It printed near perfectly right out of the box. I was impressed and wanted one until I saw the price.
They are still extremely affordable compared to other offerings when considering how capable it is
It's pretty good for the price, especially the P1P. Cheaper than a Prusa MK4
Get an ender 3 and you'll realize why it's $200. That's a great starter printer but these machines are nowhere near comparable.
ABS/ASA on the Textured PEI at 110C bed temp will not warp off the bed until it cools. No stupid release agents necessary. I would not try to flex the plate as soon as the print is done. It will be very stuck on there. Could try anything from 90C to 110C to get the perfect first layer adhesion. I usually take it out of the printer and push the bed down on a glass coffee table to suck the heat away from it if I need to remove it quickly. Takes about 10-20 seconds and it pops right off. I have printed probably over 10KG ABS like this.
It really depends on the geometry of what you are printing. Some objects will be fine, others will shrink as they cool and generate internal stresses that warp the part. Either way the enclosure helps a lot.
I've printed some ASA on my P1P. Used a ASA slurry on the Textured PEI (that side of plate is now for ASA), put the unit outside, covered with a cardboard box. Internal temperature approached 50C for hour long printers. No worries.
Can I leave ASA prints on the printer bed overnight after it's done printing? or will it warp
I just got OrcaSlicer the other day and am loving some of the features but having issues. Do you have any walkthroughs for it or recommend any? Not really finding anything on my own.
I don't even own a bambu lab printer XD I just like watching videos about 3d printer. (just sharing)
Thank you for this video. I was envious of your ASA print. I've been trying to get a large ASA print to work, but it pulls so hard that it actually lifts the build plate. Any suggestions?
I'm looking at clips now, but thought you might have a solution. Thanks in advance.
Immediately ordered one of those build plates from Ali Express
I just use the textured pei sheet for ASA works great for large prints. Also a better winder is the pastamatic on printables. the other is a work of art but finicky
Seems like either Orca Slicer defaults to 2 loops or maybe it imported my defaults from Bambu. Either way, it’s set to 2 automatically.
I bought the plate and love the patten after printing! The only annoyed thing is because it's a textured PEI plate, the big fan is really noisy during each print...
Have you tried LOKBUILD. I used on a build plate that needed the surface replaced works amazing. Pilled the old one off and had LOKBUILD from an old printer. Cut it to fit. Added a QR code. To me, it's way better than the bambu lab replacement.
PEO sheet bed adhesion has issues consistently. I clean it with 99% IPA and set textured plate in slicer. Many many failures. I dont want to use adhesives. Any advise? Thanks in advance!
Had my X1C for a few weeks and I get that retraction error after every 3rd print or so, after it’s done printing though. 95% of the time, tapping Retry fixes it, but it’s almost always been related to my use of smaller 250g spools with an adapter that moves the rollers forward, or a modular spool divider with a filament clip that gets jammed in the side wall gaps. I’ve started to remove the clips before inserting a spool into the AMS, and reapplying my small 250g spools to modular divider spools that are full height and fit in the Bambu reusable spools or a remix of it.
I just subscribed to the new channel. You should make a project on turning round smartwatch displays into cool digital gauges.
I have got the failed to pull out the filament from the extruder errors or 3DP-00M-706. I will try this print and hopefully it fixes my issues, every time I have checked the tube going to the extruder it's been clear of filament. I think if it's not this the filament sensor in the extruder is faulty.
I tried to use my build plate that looks just like yours I am going to call PEO and even used the textured PEI build plate in Bambu Studio but it seemed to be to far from the build plate when my X1C tried to print the first layer. It seemed like even though I chose textured PEI plate it tried using the lidar to scan it.
One mod you didn't mention that I have to get done is the X1C LED lighting controlled by the BL LED controller and not only does this give you added lighting but the X1C can control the LEDs along with give you status indicator, red you need to address an issue or green and your print is complete. th-cam.com/video/3IA5vlClTug/w-d-xo.html
btw the glue actually washes so neatly with just water, it's a bit amazing how easily it washes off - try it :) - I prefer the cold plate now, the textured pei gave me a bit of trouble with non bambu filaments or the lidar.. black on black doesn't work all that great
Surprised you didn’t mention Hydra mod, it might be the most popular one.
I still swear by using Aquanet hairspray on the bed. Seems to be the most easy to apply and reliable method
Would be really nice to hear your thoughts on the FLSun V400.
When using a glue stick I also give the bed a spray with IPA(or Ive used metho) after I applied some and a wipe with a paper towel (not enough to clean it off) can give the bed a nice coat, basically turns to like what the Dimafix looked like
I mix gluestick with IPA and it thins it out with similar results to the one you use for ASA on the engineering plate
Do you have any experiences how sturdy such a peo plate is? Another tip, if you could call it like that, is that wiping the coolplate with IPA will reduce the initial bonding strength. You need to go up on the temperature, but you can use it after that, without the need of glue stick.
I love the thumbnail photos where Michael looks like he’s been taken hostage.
Edit: it seems to be fixed in latest firmware update :)
I purchased PEO/PEI sheet, but I can't get good adhesion. It seems like it will not create good "squish" of the first layer if bed sheet is not recognized. I tried high temperature plate option and also textured PEI option. Nozzle is always too high for good first layer on that sheet. I know I could alter start gcode and lower nozzle by setting offset, but I will not do that as I'm often switching plates and I'm sure I'll forget to turn that back.
Or maybe that's forced by bambu lab...I don't know.
Hey Rich, I was just trying this print this morning and can't seem to get that PEO carbonfiber plate, is that what you tried? Did you have any luck with it?
@@TheOgres3DForge hey Big! Yes the black PEO side. Most of the time I get successful prints. A few times however, bed leveling is confused because a small amount of filament is stuck on the tip of the nozzle. I suspect that "handle" where the nozzle is cleaning/wiping before leveling, is just too smooth to clean it properly. I always keep eye on that.
Make sure you have updated firmware on printer and bambulab studio and select textured sheet, and wipe with alcohol of course.
Does the Bamboo Lab printer handle manuel filament change during a print, almost as well as if you have an AMS ? (asking for new filament, cutting it, unloading and loading etc.)
Michael try the Slice Engineering desiccant that is way more powerful than the gel silica. I put it in the center of my spools inside my PolyBox and keep the humidity extremely low
smooth PEI is the way to go. easy and no adhesive required like textured PEI, but has a lot more grip, but as long as you let it cool first, it detaches after the print like normal. the best I've ever used in any printer is my smooth PEI from prusa
Textured pei doesnt need an adhesive ya nob it aint a cool plate.
@@devizebeats2483 that's what i said, ya knob
My smooth pei are a huge PITA. I can't get anything to stick regularly. I clean with dish soap multiple times, I tried upping bed temp which seemed to help for a while but then it stopped working for some reason. All I'm using is pla.
Desiccant holders for the AMS are a "must have" if you own an AMS.
My AMS is being fed by a Repkord box so I do not. How ever in most cases you are correct. I like the Repkord box because it has a Golden rod which keeps the filament nice and dry. The down side to this setup is spools don't automatically roll back up. The up side is I can use 3kg rolls and my filament stays dry. To each their own.
Oh huh I just looked at their website they no longer sell the rods hmmm...
You're missing the AMS Hydra Mod. It's awesome!
Use a paper towel and ammonia. It will evenly spread old glue stick residue and you don't need to apply more. Reuse the paper towel and the residual glue can be used for many prints. Only a little ammonia is needed.
Magigoo is my preferred bed adhesive
Thanks for the vid! How about mods to get rid of the atrocious noise the printer makes?
Since we're on the topic of closed system 3d printers, it would be great if you could do a video on how to calibrate them and their dimensional accuracy!
I expect the Prusa will counter Bambu, especially in the printing speed area, while maintaining an open system for the community
Would be great. But prusa machines really aren't super affordable or multicapable for their price. If they could do high temp, be enclosed, air filter, chamber heating , etc without charging a crazy amount, that would be great.
The RFID chip does not include any details on pressure advance on the x1 carbon, the auto calibration on the lidar does that.
where abouts in Australia is the company located?
Damn I'm early, Have a great day Michael!
Hi Michael, as usual you excelling here, can you make the same video for the K1 in one or two month from now …? 😅
For the bracket, is that the best orientation to print for strength? I feel like it would be stronger on its side. Just a thought
From what I can tell, the only people with breakages in the comments on printables printed it on the side. I agree this seems counterintuitive.
I printed mine in asa vertically using default settings and it broke right away. Re printed in PC and its fine.
All ya gotta do to wash the engineering plate is run it under hot water for 1/2 a min and it melts all the gunk glue off then I spray some dish washing spray on it and a few quick wipes it looks brand new.
Need some help. I want to print for war-gaming and warhammer. Should I go with a PLA or resin 3d printer. Should I get a Prusa MK4 or a Prusa SL1S? I dont want to make a mistake at purchasing. Want a good printer upfront, not worried about cost but want the function of finding files and printing bits and pieces for 40k. Can someone provide some advice?
Are you able to use the Bowden tube Y splitter and the AMS to print in 5 colors?
I got a free PLA plate from Bambu to test out. Has a satin finish, and requires no glue, PLA sticks incredibly well when printing, and releases easily when you want to remove the print. Not a single failed print so far, can highly recommend buying one whenever it releases, the cool plate is comparatively trash
Is that new? I didn't see it the last time I was on the bambu store.
@@DisorderedArray They sent me one for free to test out months ago. And sent a questionnaire a month ago to give feedback on the plate. If they still haven’t released it, then I assume they’re in the process of creating the next version, hopefully it releases soon, because it’s been really really good so far
Hello, thank you for this video! Where do you see this printer in 5-6 years from now? Do you think it will be still supported(Parts etc)? I'm almost sure I want to buy it, but this is getting constantly in the middle!
The head honchos of this company largely came from DJI. It makes sense that they MAY follow a similar business model if that helps. Apart from that I haven't printed a crystal ball yet.
@@TeachingTech I see... My crystal ball is at 20%...If I had a X1 it would be finished by now..
what food dehydrator is that that you're using?
simply print the spool weight and fill them with silica....better than all the little packages and adds weight to a near empty spool in the AMS
speaking of bambu printers, is the x1 worth it or should i just get the p1s?
For the filament School Transfer I was expecting some kind of reverse feeding into the AMS system and pressing the unload Button 1000s of times
Why no hairspray for better adhesion? its simpler to apply as glue sticks and very easy to clean.
would you rather pick a mk4 or the X1?
Just out of curiosity, can the Bambu Lab slicer also serve as my slicer for my Creality printer? Or do I have to still use my S3D
Ok Orca!
Orca works well for both.
whered you get your pnumatic fittings? I cant seem to find the veriety you have =(
Im struggling i got the peo plate but i cant make anything stick to it i used pla
Did you see that you can rinse the glue stick residue with warm water with no problem. The plate looks brand new.
No mention of the hydra mod???
Try something called a Tidypen to clean the residue off the plate.
making the poop shoot is a great way to burn up old partial rolls of filament, with the AMS setting them all to say its the same type it just keeps auto switching unitll it runs out.
how did you get fluidd to show up on the device tab? i can get mainsail to show, but fluidd always comes up with a white screen saying it can't be found
Just added the IP address like any other. If you need for detail my original linked orcaslicer video covers it.
I'd like to see a comprehensive ABS printing session with this printer.
at 13:50 you can use the ERCF spoon
hey brother, have you looked at hueforge yet?
My go to waste chute solution is out the back straight into a trashcan
Why don't they add a heater and fan to the AMS to dry the filament?
Nice.
Your voice reminds me of richard ayoade from IT guys haha
If you want to use glue stick just wipe it with a damp cloth after a liberal coat. This turns it into a very thi9n and even layer just like that liquid use used.
Can you upgrade a P1P to print as high quality as a P1 Carbon?