I still don’t fully understand how to use that feature. If I shim my slide out a little bit and try to screw in through those tabs, it seems like my screw hole would strip out of the cabinet box before the pull force of the screw would bend that metal tab, no? Or do I need to bend those tabs out manually before I install the slides? I have a work bench drawer where my cabinet box sides aren’t parallel, and I would love to be able to shim my drawer slides out to smooth the operation of my drawers!
Thanks for the informative video lesson. I want to use soft close slides that require that extra 1/16" which I dont have. What would you recommend to solve this problem? One person suggested using a palm router to remove a 1/16 of the inside of the cabinet exactly where the slide would be installed. Would you agree with this? Thank you in advance
I would honestly try it out first and see if you actually need the extra clearance. Sometimes you will get lucky. If not, a router would make quick work of it with a template of some sort
On a full face overlay , What do you if you replace the epoxy slides with full extension ball slides and now there is not enough clearance. Ie the drawer can’t clear back in with the new rails attached? Mount a block on the inside of the cabinet to hold the rail and not mount it to the face?
@@Woodworkerexpress its the width. Its 1/8 to narrow after I attached the rail to the face frame. So i guess i should attach the rails to the cabinet side ?
Sounds like maybe the drawers were built too wide? Usually epoxy and ball bearing both require an inch of total clearance. You could also try to shave that 1/8" on the sides of the drawer boxes. I have done that in the past. Using a table saw, you can take off 1/16" from both sides of the drawer box where the slide is installed
Unfortunately there is nothing made for this purpose but you can fashion up something that stops the drawer itself from coming out further than you would like it. It would have to be on a pivot so that you can turn the stopper while inserting the drawer and then reach in to turn it into the position it needs to be in
Hey I have an issue with my drawer slides on a work bench. One of the old drawer slide broke, so I ordered a set of new side mount slides. Unfortunately the old side mount slides are 1/2 the thickness of the new standard drawer slides. I can’t seem to find the thinner drawer slides anywhere. What do you think is the best solution?
They make a heavy duty side mount slide that is thicker but very expensive, we do have them on our site. Another option would be to shim the slide out the extra that it needs with either washers or even a scrap piece of wood
yes! drawer slides can be a big pain in the butt!!
Had no idea that those tabs could be used to adjust the fit. Great tip.
I am glad to help!
I still don’t fully understand how to use that feature. If I shim my slide out a little bit and try to screw in through those tabs, it seems like my screw hole would strip out of the cabinet box before the pull force of the screw would bend that metal tab, no? Or do I need to bend those tabs out manually before I install the slides?
I have a work bench drawer where my cabinet box sides aren’t parallel, and I would love to be able to shim my drawer slides out to smooth the operation of my drawers!
Your video was extremely helpful. Thank you for taking the time to produce it.
You're very welcome!
Thanks for the informative video lesson. I want to use soft close slides that require that extra 1/16" which I dont have. What would you recommend to solve this problem? One person suggested using a palm router to remove a 1/16 of the inside of the cabinet exactly where the slide would be installed. Would you agree with this? Thank you in advance
I would honestly try it out first and see if you actually need the extra clearance. Sometimes you will get lucky. If not, a router would make quick work of it with a template of some sort
@@Woodworkerexpress Thank you so much!
On a full face overlay , What do you if you replace the epoxy slides with full extension ball slides and now there is not enough clearance. Ie the drawer can’t clear back in with the new rails attached? Mount a block on the inside of the cabinet to hold the rail and not mount it to the face?
Is there not enough clearance left to right or front to back?
@@Woodworkerexpress its the width. Its 1/8 to narrow after I attached the rail to the face frame. So i guess i should attach the rails to the cabinet side ?
Sounds like maybe the drawers were built too wide? Usually epoxy and ball bearing both require an inch of total clearance. You could also try to shave that 1/8" on the sides of the drawer boxes. I have done that in the past. Using a table saw, you can take off 1/16" from both sides of the drawer box where the slide is installed
Is there a way to apply a stop mechanism to these slides? I need to keep one of my drawers from extending the full length of the slide.
Unfortunately there is nothing made for this purpose but you can fashion up something that stops the drawer itself from coming out further than you would like it. It would have to be on a pivot so that you can turn the stopper while inserting the drawer and then reach in to turn it into the position it needs to be in
Are there any options for draws that have 1/4 inch clearance either side?
We do carry these center mount slides that work with minimal side clearance. www.woodworkerexpress.com/Center-Bottom-Mount-Slides/
Hey I have an issue with my drawer slides on a work bench. One of the old drawer slide broke, so I ordered a set of new side mount slides. Unfortunately the old side mount slides are 1/2 the thickness of the new standard drawer slides. I can’t seem to find the thinner drawer slides anywhere. What do you think is the best solution?
They make a heavy duty side mount slide that is thicker but very expensive, we do have them on our site. Another option would be to shim the slide out the extra that it needs with either washers or even a scrap piece of wood