Something to keep in mind is that under mount slides reduce the vertical space inside the drawer which becomes a concern with shallow drawers. Conversely, side mount slides reduce the horizontal space inside the drawer which becomes a concern with narrow drawers.
I have a kitchen dresser from the 1950s that has wooden side runners and the operation of the drawers is flawlessly smooth. The whole cabinet is precision built and still looks fabulous after all these decades.
Peter. Best ten minutes I've spent in some time. I haven't picked up many of your videos, lately, and it good to hear your smooth, easy listening delivery, again, even when you talking like a bullet train trying to get it all in in your 10 minutes. A suggestion: Try a laminate or other smooth, dense material, like Masonite, when making slideless drawers. I made some 48 wide X 32 inch deep drawers for a printing company a few years back. They went on 1 inch steel stock racks. The drawers were flat and were made of 3/4 inch plywood with a sheet of 1/4 inch Masonite laying on top. The Masonite had to slide over the plywood They had a lot of surface area and carried a lot of weight, but slid smoothly. Just got home from London, a few days ago. Always enjoy the visit.
Thanks! Closest thing we have to Masonite in the UK is hardboard, a thin low-grade material, but I do take your point about low friction and smooth surfaces, thanks! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hardboard and Masonite, I think, are the same, like Kleenex and tissues. Here it comes in a smooth surface or screen (rough) surface, often both.
A great summary Peter. My first use of side mounts was for a stack of multi-compartment screw boxes. The draws were simply a sheet of 18mm plywood but the runners were a doddle to fit and it is the most useful unit in my workshop.
Good overview as ever Peter. Push to open undermount are my fav for the workshop. Lot to be said for being able to just kick a drawer with your hands full and have it open😁
Great content as usual. Thank you. I always put handles on my drawers (they're really inexpensive if you look around a bit) rather than holes to pull, because you could get bitten by something unexpectedly . Speaking from experience :-)
Another interesting one Peter, however a rare thing, I found myself disagreeing with one point 🙈. Draws can be hard to make, but a a great project to learn woodworking skills because they need to made of consistent size components. For example, a three draw set need square fronts, or rectangular, consistent size yes, but often precise if you making in frame for example. Additionally If they are not square they will not travel in and out smoothly. But if you can build a good set of draws you are 90% the way to learning how to make good woodworking projects as most woodworking is a square box of some sort. Keep the videos coming, always informative 👍🏻
Thanks! As I think I said, they’re not hard to make *as long as you’re straight, square, precise, parallel* etc… The actual construction is pretty straightforward, but you need to get those basics down first. 👍 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yep basic construction for sure, not had cut dove tails after all. The better I get the more I realise cutting something Square I now take for granted, which is not that easy when you first start out. Look forward to the next video 👍🏻
I've just finished a 4 drawer workshop cabinet using non-soft-close full extension slides from Screwfix. They are surprisingly smooth in operation . I was never entirely happy with the action of some soft close push-to-open slides from an Internet source so I chose a simpler option. 595 mm deep and 650 mm wide, mostly organising power tools like sanders, biscuit jointer, jigsaw, angle grinder etc. Lay on false fronts and no handle hardware, just pull slots. I used to be afraid of drawers once...
Probably not the first to mention them but the white, metal, two-wheeled bottom-corner runners are a good option at a low price point. Main advantage after price is self-close.
I agree, I have used Blum here in the US for many years and never used their jigs. It works just fine to adapt their requirements to your style build. That said they do give wiggle room on the runners and those rear tabs are flat which makes the mating hole fairly easy as well. That said, they spec one of those holes on the rear very close to the outer edge which I don't always like. I have always just had my drawers come down on the outer edge of the runners as well and not captured by an interior edge and they work just fine. I was just over at a neighbor's build and the carpenter there rushed all the drawers with possibly the wrong Blum system (maybe he used the slides for their own Blum metal drawer system etc.) and they were running very rough and not engaging correctly on the "push open" feature which they do offer. Interestingly your adjustable orange clips in the video are indeed copying the look a bit of the Blum. During Covid the Blum hardware all but disappeared but seem to be in better stock these days etc. Their Euro hinge hardware is also recommended and no jig required given the measurements are fairly straight forward (the 5mm space between the inside of the door edge to the mortise for the hinge mount).
Regarding the full-extension drawer runners, use a permanent marker and add an arrow to remind yourself which way to slide the clip to release the mechanism.
What about the white coloured drawer slides with the roller guide wheels on the sides? Are they any good for workshop use or would they have their place only as kitchen drawer hardware?
Price vs quality The old fashioned “euro slide” as we call them I canada is a joy to install,easy on the wallet and last as long as the drawer it self . I’m finding that customers who want a functional kitchen do not want soft close hardware,it could be a local quark ?
I would agree, side mount runners are an eyesore and to be avoided in quality work. I also prefer Blum Movento runners, but usually have a separate outer drawer front which I locate with 25mm drawer front adjusters (Hafele 430.90.320) these give me an easier final adjustment of the drawer front, using the adjusters on the drawer runners can be fiddly. The outer drawer front being finally fixed with screws.
Thank you! MDF is fine for cabinets, and I’ve made drawer boxes from it as well, without any problems, but for any commercial work, or for when the drawers are subject to heavier loads the I’d always use plywood for drawers. 👍
@@semmulalic5314 Links in the description, always! Browse the full list for this video here - amzn.to/3BwepMI Visit my Amazon store here - 10MinuteAmazon.com Soft close drawer slides - amzn.to/3ZrOvDU (US: [similar] amzn.to/3L2vofj)
Have you tried using the side-mount metal runners as under-mounted runners for small/lightweight drawers or slide-out trays? . . being mean I gave it a go with a slide-out tray/drawer in my coffee station with some success.
I haven’t no Rob; never had the occasion personally, and never wanted to ‘experiment’ with client work, though it’s crossed my mind on a couple of occasions! 👍
Someone makes/used to make under mount drawer slides that look to be the same as the side mount slides, but IIRC the weight capacity is about 15 pounds/7kg including the drawer box so really only useful for very shallow drawers for things like letters or kitchen spice drawers.
Hello Peter, I’m planning on building a bit of cabinetry for the back of my car for the sake of storage, but I wanted it to be modular in the way that I can add in an extension to the rear of the cabinet and swap in a drawer that’s double the length if I don’t need to use the rear passenger seats. The only problem is that if I use the same hardware for both drawers, I could only access about half of the longer drawer, or if I have two sets of rails that I change out, it would only be a matter of time before the wood got too chewed up to use. Any suggestions? More specifically, the interior of the main cabinet would be around 24-26 inches long, and the total pull-out length of the longer cabinet would be around 50 inches long. Best, Keith
I used to use grass slides. Same type as blum but less expensive. Did check the price difference like forever tho so not sure how true that is currently.
Always used to use Grass dynapro but prices pretty much doubled from my local supplier so I switched to Blum. Great slides though, the Dynapro, 60Kg as standard. 💪👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yes that's the ones! Your comment on the technical drawing made me laugh. First time you see one of them you feel like you need a degree to read it! But it's all useful stuff! Like the max wall thickness actually makes a difference cause once you go over it some of the measurements no longer work. If I'm remembering right it throws out the relationship between the gobbins on the inside of the cabinet and the gobbins on the underside of the drawer.
help!! i got used slides for free (sikai brand), and i cannot figure out how to separate them for installation! when i pull the drawers out, the notch in the back just comes right out. what can i do to fix this?
I want to add, I have to back pinholes in the right spot. I am using drawers that I also got for free, and they were originally used with the slides. They did not really slide well to begin with, and I wanted to use this for a different project anyway. I built my own bed with a 25 inch clearance underneath last year....so that I could save space with drawers and pull-out storage underneath. I ended up putting this shelf sideways, and mounting it on casters. Then, I installed a handle to be able to pull it out easily. Sideways, rather than upright the spacing was a little bit different. It wasn't off much, I was able to fix that problem. What I'm stuck on now, is how do I get these *#!@!&!* drawer slides to act right??!!
I've watched lots of your videos, but I've never seen what looks like a black rubber or some other material MFT type top before. Can you advise who makes it and where you got it? Great if available in the US. Many thanks.
Sorry to be slow getting back to you. It’s a coloured all through MDF called Fibracolour from Spanish manufacturer Finsa. AFAIK they don’t distribute in the US, but another brand, Valchromat, is available I believe. HTH 👍
Thanks, there’s so many to choose from! I’ll follow your link I think although I have a 700 cabinet and they seem to go up to 600. That ok you think? 🙏🏼
Peter, do you have any plans or recommendations for building cabinets on casters which are specifically designed to hold systainers? I want everything on casters in my garage, and I'm looking for a cabinet/drawer design which will allow me to open systainers while they remain in a drawer (while it is fully extended). I know Tanos makes their SYS-AZ Systainer Drawer Set, but I'd rather make my own for aesthetic reasons.
I inherited a chest of drawers that have no runners on them and there is no space for me to add them on, I find it difficult to open the drawers, what can I do?? Help
How are the drawers supported? Presumably they must sit on a shelf or a batten at either side? If they’re hard to open is it because they’re sticking, or something else? If there’s a build up of old wax or paint this can be an issue as well - if that’s the case then it’s best sanded back and given a coat of a natural finish like liquid beeswax. HTH. P
All the links are in the description under Handy consumables & gear:- Note that prices fluctuate - some have risen since I made my purchases. Browse the full list for this video here - amzn.to/3BwepMI Visit my Amazon store here - 10MinuteAmazon.com Soft close drawer slides - amzn.to/3ZrOvDU (US: [similar] amzn.to/3L2vofj)
Please slow down your speech. You are not catching an express train. We have to process what is being said and you are moving too fast. I had to slow down the speech manually and stop several times to absorb. This new habit of artificially manipulating speech to remove all natural pauses is very frustrating to viewer. The one good thing I got from this video is that undermount drawer glides exist. The rest is too much fast talking with focus on speaker not on project. Speaker should be 5% of video, not 95%.
What are you talking about, ‘artificially manipulating speech to remove all natural pauses’?? I’ve been speaking for well over 60 years, and this is the rate I speak at; if I spoke any slower *that* would be artificially manipulating my speech. If you find that I speak too fast *for you* then you have it within your control to slow that down in playback, or watch it again. 🤷♂️ Please don’t presume to tell me how to speak just because you can’t keep up. 👍
Peter ,would you know andonw selling a FestoolFestool VAC SYS System Set Item ZTU203149, VAC Sys System Set Can find one in the US. Will Pay Shipping and insurance on one
![How I Fit Concealed Drawer Slides [video 524]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WkU0G245CqI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cabinetry Basics Part 1 [video 435]](/img/n.gif)
Something to keep in mind is that under mount slides reduce the vertical space inside the drawer which becomes a concern with shallow drawers. Conversely, side mount slides reduce the horizontal space inside the drawer which becomes a concern with narrow drawers.
I have a kitchen dresser from the 1950s that has wooden side runners and the operation of the drawers is flawlessly smooth. The whole cabinet is precision built and still looks fabulous after all these decades.
Man the effort you put into showing all the different slide options is just fabulous. Great work and thank you!
Thank you! 👍
Oh yeah! The wonderful world of drawers!! Sometimes a pain in the neck but when everything comes together it’s wonderful 😊
Gotta say I love how you get to the point so many ramble on definitely earned my subscription
Thanks, and welcome! 👍
Thank Pete Millard you for a well written and concise presentation.
Peter. Best ten minutes I've spent in some time. I haven't picked up many of your videos, lately, and it good to hear your smooth, easy listening delivery, again, even when you talking like a bullet train trying to get it all in in your 10 minutes.
A suggestion: Try a laminate or other smooth, dense material, like Masonite, when making slideless drawers. I made some 48 wide X 32 inch deep drawers for a printing company a few years back. They went on 1 inch steel stock racks. The drawers were flat and were made of 3/4 inch plywood with a sheet of 1/4 inch Masonite laying on top. The Masonite had to slide over the plywood They had a lot of surface area and carried a lot of weight, but slid smoothly.
Just got home from London, a few days ago. Always enjoy the visit.
Thanks! Closest thing we have to Masonite in the UK is hardboard, a thin low-grade material, but I do take your point about low friction and smooth surfaces, thanks! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hardboard and Masonite, I think, are the same, like Kleenex and tissues. Here it comes in a smooth surface or screen (rough) surface, often both.
A great summary Peter. My first use of side mounts was for a stack of multi-compartment screw boxes. The draws were simply a sheet of 18mm plywood but the runners were a doddle to fit and it is the most useful unit in my workshop.
Good overview as ever Peter. Push to open undermount are my fav for the workshop. Lot to be said for being able to just kick a drawer with your hands full and have it open😁
Thanks Stew! 👍
I always find undermount much easier to fit than side mounted. Way more margin for error and adjustment
So precise and on point, your presentation is spot on, verry well done..
Thank you! 👍
Fantastic options here Peter, first class as always⭐️👍
Cheers David! 👍
You are listed alongside Peter Frampton and Peter Rabbit on my TH-cam search. Must be the easy to follow and quality production.
Really nice video. Quickly done and edited with such precision too! Thanks.
Thank you! 👍
Great content as usual. Thank you. I always put handles on my drawers (they're really inexpensive if you look around a bit) rather than holes to pull, because you could get bitten by something unexpectedly . Speaking from experience :-)
Another interesting one Peter, however a rare thing, I found myself disagreeing with one point 🙈. Draws can be hard to make, but a a great project to learn woodworking skills because they need to made of consistent size components. For example, a three draw set need square fronts, or rectangular, consistent size yes, but often precise if you making in frame for example. Additionally If they are not square they will not travel in and out smoothly.
But if you can build a good set of draws you are 90% the way to learning how to make good woodworking projects as most woodworking is a square box of some sort.
Keep the videos coming, always informative 👍🏻
Agreed - I think it was a Steve Ramsey video a few years back that made me realise why knowing how to make a box was pretty important.
Thanks! As I think I said, they’re not hard to make *as long as you’re straight, square, precise, parallel* etc… The actual construction is pretty straightforward, but you need to get those basics down first. 👍 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yep basic construction for sure, not had cut dove tails after all. The better I get the more I realise cutting something Square I now take for granted, which is not that easy when you first start out.
Look forward to the next video 👍🏻
I melt/soak bees wax carefully into the wood grain, with a propane torch set low to not scorch the grain, into the sliding friction parts
Thanks a bunch for all the tips, Peter! 😃
I really like the wooden runners!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too! 👍
I've just finished a 4 drawer workshop cabinet using non-soft-close full extension slides from Screwfix. They are surprisingly smooth in operation . I was never entirely happy with the action of some soft close push-to-open slides from an Internet source so I chose a simpler option.
595 mm deep and 650 mm wide, mostly organising power tools like sanders, biscuit jointer, jigsaw, angle grinder etc. Lay on false fronts and no handle hardware, just pull slots.
I used to be afraid of drawers once...
Probably not the first to mention them but the white, metal, two-wheeled bottom-corner runners are a good option at a low price point.
Main advantage after price is self-close.
Nice concise info there Peter. Not at all drawn out!
I agree, I have used Blum here in the US for many years and never used their jigs. It works just fine to adapt their requirements to your style build. That said they do give wiggle room on the runners and those rear tabs are flat which makes the mating hole fairly easy as well. That said, they spec one of those holes on the rear very close to the outer edge which I don't always like. I have always just had my drawers come down on the outer edge of the runners as well and not captured by an interior edge and they work just fine. I was just over at a neighbor's build and the carpenter there rushed all the drawers with possibly the wrong Blum system (maybe he used the slides for their own Blum metal drawer system etc.) and they were running very rough and not engaging correctly on the "push open" feature which they do offer. Interestingly your adjustable orange clips in the video are indeed copying the look a bit of the Blum. During Covid the Blum hardware all but disappeared but seem to be in better stock these days etc. Their Euro hinge hardware is also recommended and no jig required given the measurements are fairly straight forward (the 5mm space between the inside of the door edge to the mortise for the hinge mount).
Regarding the full-extension drawer runners, use a permanent marker and add an arrow to remind yourself which way to slide the clip to release the mechanism.
once again nice work Peter
Thanks! 👍
Thanks for the video, next draw will involve undermount slides :)
What about the white coloured drawer slides with the roller guide wheels on the sides? Are they any good for workshop use or would they have their place only as kitchen drawer hardware?
Price vs quality
The old fashioned “euro slide” as we call them I canada is a joy to install,easy on the wallet and last as long as the drawer it self .
I’m finding that customers who want a functional kitchen do not want soft close hardware,it could be a local quark ?
Interesting; don’t think I’ve fitted a non soft-close drawer or door since they were readily available. 🤷♂️👍
Thank you for so much information!
Hi Peter, what should the gap be for drawers in cupboards?
For door s and drawers I aim for a gap 1.5-2mm (1/16” or just over) all around. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop brilliant got some I am planning soon thanks
I would agree, side mount runners are an eyesore and to be avoided in quality work. I also prefer Blum Movento runners, but usually have a separate outer drawer front which I locate with 25mm drawer front adjusters (Hafele 430.90.320) these give me an easier final adjustment of the drawer front, using the adjusters on the drawer runners can be fiddly. The outer drawer front being finally fixed with screws.
Love your work,
I do have a question, do you think mdf is better for drawers and workshop cabinets, or is plywood better?
Thank you! MDF is fine for cabinets, and I’ve made drawer boxes from it as well, without any problems, but for any commercial work, or for when the drawers are subject to heavier loads the I’d always use plywood for drawers. 👍
Good video Peter! Thank you for sharing it with us!😎💖👍JP
Peter, the master of accuracy as always👍
Love your work 👍
Thank you! 👍
Do you have an amazon link on those undermount slidea
@@semmulalic5314 Links in the description, always!
Browse the full list for this video here - amzn.to/3BwepMI
Visit my Amazon store here - 10MinuteAmazon.com
Soft close drawer slides - amzn.to/3ZrOvDU (US: [similar] amzn.to/3L2vofj)
Have you tried using the side-mount metal runners as under-mounted runners for small/lightweight drawers or slide-out trays? . . being mean I gave it a go with a slide-out tray/drawer in my coffee station with some success.
I haven’t no Rob; never had the occasion personally, and never wanted to ‘experiment’ with client work, though it’s crossed my mind on a couple of occasions! 👍
Someone makes/used to make under mount drawer slides that look to be the same as the side mount slides, but IIRC the weight capacity is about 15 pounds/7kg including the drawer box so really only useful for very shallow drawers for things like letters or kitchen spice drawers.
Hello Peter,
I’m planning on building a bit of cabinetry for the back of my car for the sake of storage, but I wanted it to be modular in the way that I can add in an extension to the rear of the cabinet and swap in a drawer that’s double the length if I don’t need to use the rear passenger seats. The only problem is that if I use the same hardware for both drawers, I could only access about half of the longer drawer, or if I have two sets of rails that I change out, it would only be a matter of time before the wood got too chewed up to use. Any suggestions? More specifically, the interior of the main cabinet would be around 24-26 inches long, and the total pull-out length of the longer cabinet would be around 50 inches long.
Best,
Keith
How is the size of the drawer box determined when the slides are being used?
That depends entirely on which slides are being used. 👍
What happened to the table saw 🤔🤔
Beats me. Just about to cancel the order tbh - 4 months is long enough to wait. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop is ridiculous, everything is so expensive and even when you wanna buy something is just loads of problems or out of stock 🤭😂
I used to use grass slides. Same type as blum but less expensive. Did check the price difference like forever tho so not sure how true that is currently.
Always used to use Grass dynapro but prices pretty much doubled from my local supplier so I switched to Blum. Great slides though, the Dynapro, 60Kg as standard. 💪👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yes that's the ones! Your comment on the technical drawing made me laugh. First time you see one of them you feel like you need a degree to read it! But it's all useful stuff! Like the max wall thickness actually makes a difference cause once you go over it some of the measurements no longer work. If I'm remembering right it throws out the relationship between the gobbins on the inside of the cabinet and the gobbins on the underside of the drawer.
have you ever used teflon slides? theres a company called 'drifta' in australia and they used them alot
No, never have. 👍
Thank you, this was most helpful! Just installed a pair of drawers to my workshop and used up my swear word quota at least for the rest of the year.
help!!
i got used slides for free (sikai brand), and i cannot figure out how to separate them for installation!
when i pull the drawers out, the notch in the back just comes right out.
what can i do to fix this?
I want to add, I have to back pinholes in the right spot. I am using drawers that I also got for free, and they were originally used with the slides.
They did not really slide well to begin with, and I wanted to use this for a different project anyway.
I built my own bed with a 25 inch clearance underneath last year....so that I could save space with drawers and pull-out storage underneath.
I ended up putting this shelf sideways, and mounting it on casters. Then, I installed a handle to be able to pull it out easily.
Sideways, rather than upright the spacing was a little bit different. It wasn't off much, I was able to fix that problem.
What I'm stuck on now, is how do I get these *#!@!&!* drawer slides to act right??!!
I've watched lots of your videos, but I've never seen what looks like a black rubber or some other material MFT type top before. Can you advise who makes it and where you got it? Great if available in the US. Many thanks.
Sorry to be slow getting back to you. It’s a coloured all through MDF called Fibracolour from Spanish manufacturer Finsa. AFAIK they don’t distribute in the US, but another brand, Valchromat, is available I believe. HTH 👍
Thanks for the video. The Amazon UK link looks different to those shown, are they full/double extension do you know? thanks again
Hi. I agree, the main photo looks different, but these are definitely the ones I purchased for this cabinet. 👍
Thanks, there’s so many to choose from! I’ll follow your link I think although I have a 700 cabinet and they seem to go up to 600. That ok you think? 🙏🏼
Peter, do you have any plans or recommendations for building cabinets on casters which are specifically designed to hold systainers? I want everything on casters in my garage, and I'm looking for a cabinet/drawer design which will allow me to open systainers while they remain in a drawer (while it is fully extended). I know Tanos makes their SYS-AZ Systainer Drawer Set, but I'd rather make my own for aesthetic reasons.
No, nothing like that I'm sorry; my floor is so uneven it's a castor-free zone! 🤷♂️
I inherited a chest of drawers that have no runners on them and there is no space for me to add them on, I find it difficult to open the drawers, what can I do?? Help
How are the drawers supported? Presumably they must sit on a shelf or a batten at either side? If they’re hard to open is it because they’re sticking, or something else? If there’s a build up of old wax or paint this can be an issue as well - if that’s the case then it’s best sanded back and given a coat of a natural finish like liquid beeswax. HTH. P
you mentioned that you found the good runners on Amazon , do you still have the link , thanks
All the links are in the description under Handy consumables & gear:-
Note that prices fluctuate - some have risen since I made my purchases.
Browse the full list for this video here - amzn.to/3BwepMI
Visit my Amazon store here - 10MinuteAmazon.com
Soft close drawer slides - amzn.to/3ZrOvDU (US: [similar] amzn.to/3L2vofj)
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks ,I found some on ironmongery direct at a good price 👍 , thanks for the quick reply too
Great video. Thanks for perfect tips :)
thanks 👍✌🖖🥃
Always under mount Blum!
Okay then, well explained.
👍
They break the bank! Like $110 a drawer!
Please slow down your speech. You are not catching an express train. We have to process what is being said and you are moving too fast. I had to slow down the speech manually and stop several times to absorb. This new habit of artificially manipulating speech to remove all natural pauses is very frustrating to viewer.
The one good thing I got from this video is that undermount drawer glides exist. The rest is too much fast talking with focus on speaker not on project. Speaker should be 5% of video, not 95%.
What are you talking about, ‘artificially manipulating speech to remove all natural pauses’?? I’ve been speaking for well over 60 years, and this is the rate I speak at; if I spoke any slower *that* would be artificially manipulating my speech. If you find that I speak too fast *for you* then you have it within your control to slow that down in playback, or watch it again. 🤷♂️ Please don’t presume to tell me how to speak just because you can’t keep up. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop English isn‘t my first language and I enjoy your speed! ❤
Peter ,would you know andonw selling a FestoolFestool VAC SYS System Set
Item ZTU203149, VAC Sys System Set Can find one in the US. Will Pay Shipping and insurance on one
I’m pretty sure this system was discontinued not so long back. 🤷♂️
👍