Probably one of the better videos I've seen. I do all my own work on my JK and my brake booster went out. I used your video to replace it so thank you for sharing and thank you for the clear video! 10/10 would recommend this video!
LOVE THE DETAILS, GREAT FILMING & GREAT COMMUNICATION!! I HAVE A CLUTCH AND THIS IS MY FIRST TIME THANK YOU VERY MUCH THANK YOU!! I HAD TO SCROLL WAY DOWN TO FIND YOUR VIDEO EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR!!!!
@@Donnythelatemodeltech I want you to know I DID NOT HAVE TO REMOVE MY CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER MAYBE BECAUSE IT'S NOT USING THE SAME BRAKE FLUID AS THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER SO IT WAS A EASY CHANGE & OMG it's like A MIRACLE AND WORKING GREAT NOW I FEEL SO MUCH SAFER WITH BRAKES THAT WORK AND I DON'T HAVE TO DOWNSHIFT SO MUCH!!! THANKS AGAIN!!!!??
Great video! One question though and I’m just curious. Would it have been easier to have removed the four 13MM nuts from inside vs the whole mounting plate? I have a JL and it’s not much different.
Thanks for posting this video. Im going to try replacing my vacuum brake booster on my '96 Chevy S10 pickup truck without having to remove the two lines going to it. But if my attempt fails, I'll have to. 🤷♀️
Hello everyone again , on additional inspection I fi d it pumps up and is firn when the jeep is Off. Start it up and the pedal goes to the floor with little feel. Any help would be appreciated
thanks but you ignored the brake master if leaking could affect the booster again must of issue of the booster lake from the master it ll damage the vacuum itself please advise i had some issue i m confused should test the air brake pump first
You can get to the bottom driver side bolt through the wheel well sooo much easier if you don’t have aftermarket inner fenders. I have a manual so that slave cylinder got me slumped
Is there a reason why you removed that alum plate from the firewall instead of unbolting the booster from the inside? Looks like the booster may have been easier to get out without the plate attached. Not criticizing, just looking for short cuts. Thanks for the info!
Of course I have the manual that feeds off the master cylinder lol. Will I be forced to bleed after the fact or is there a trick I can use to avoid that? Absolutely amazing detail in the video man! Thank you!
Great video! I hate when people cut out all of the actual work. I want to see how it actual is to remove. ;-) We get to replace mine in my 2007 tomorrow. The master cylinder had already been replaced but my brake pedal goes too far to the floor to stop. Hopefully this does the trick.
If your changing a caliper, and as long as you don't drain the master, you can bleed them. You just need a scan tool if you replace or drain drain the master, .
Seems like it would have been easier if you removed just the four 13mm nuts from inside the cab holding the brake booster to the firewall so there is a smaller footprint to pull out and up instead of that large plate connected with the booster. The subsequent re-install would have been 1/2 second quicker too.....not much but anything helps, haha.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Yeah, probably a bad idea now that I see the distance for the pushrod and bolts to clear is increased by the thickness of the plate. This thickness also inhibits the earlier angling up of the booster in this cramp space.
Hmm. Well, the real reason is that you cant get a socket to line up with the nuts going through the fire wall. The nuts are offset just enough where you can't grab them, there is no slack in the holes in the firewall for the socket, I guess I didn't point that out in the video , sorry, go take a peek under your dash and see if the nuts and holes line up, not a single one of the 20 or 30 I've done have lined up. Maybe yours is different. 👍
Had a squeak in my jk that drove me nuts. Turned out to be my break booster. Could not have done it without this video. Thank you!
Probably one of the better videos I've seen. I do all my own work on my JK and my brake booster went out. I used your video to replace it so thank you for sharing and thank you for the clear video! 10/10 would recommend this video!
Thanks for the support!
LOVE THE DETAILS, GREAT FILMING & GREAT COMMUNICATION!!
I HAVE A CLUTCH AND THIS IS MY FIRST TIME THANK YOU VERY MUCH THANK YOU!! I HAD TO SCROLL WAY DOWN TO FIND YOUR VIDEO EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR!!!!
Thanks for sharing 👍! Good luck!
@@Donnythelatemodeltech I want you to know I DID NOT HAVE TO REMOVE MY CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER MAYBE BECAUSE IT'S NOT USING THE SAME BRAKE FLUID AS THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER SO IT WAS A EASY CHANGE & OMG it's like A MIRACLE AND WORKING GREAT NOW I FEEL SO MUCH SAFER WITH BRAKES THAT WORK AND I DON'T HAVE TO DOWNSHIFT SO MUCH!!! THANKS AGAIN!!!!??
Thank you so much for posting this, wouldn’t have been able to do it myself without this
I have an 03 ford ranger. I appreciate the information. I had a feeling it was my booster but only know basic concepts of how vehicles work.
Hi Sonny. Thank’s for this vidéo. I leave in French Guiana
Great video! One question though and I’m just curious. Would it have been easier to have removed the four 13MM nuts from inside vs the whole mounting plate? I have a JL and it’s not much different.
Usually the holes are lined up where a socket will fit.
Fantastic vid, and the sidebar for the scam call was classic. Great detail was a piece of cake to do it thanks to your vid, u da best!
Thanks for posting this video. Im going to try replacing my vacuum brake booster on my '96 Chevy S10 pickup truck without having to remove the two lines going to it. But if my attempt fails, I'll have to. 🤷♀️
Will it make that air sound when it's not running ? Great video and thanks all the detail
My jeep is doing exactly the same thing as yours, I ordered a new booster and hopefully I can put it in without taking it to the shop
I have a 2016 JKU manual with 3.6l I do have a scan tool that I can bleed brakes with so what part of the process is different for me
Hello everyone again , on additional inspection I fi d it pumps up and is firn when the jeep is Off. Start it up and the pedal goes to the floor with little feel. Any help would be appreciated
Awesome video, very informative! Thanks for making and explaining the brake booster.
The one I'm doing right now has wiring harness ran through the hole in that bracket! This is a pain in the ass.
Great video, thanks for sharing the knowledge and tips!
Glad it was helpful!
“Void your warranty if, pfff, whatever “ 😂😂 “just gonna smash this bitch back in”😂😂 hilarious. Seriously appreciate the video.
Lots of great info! Can’t wait for all the other ones!
This is such a head start thanks boss
Light work
What's the difference in the manual
thanks but you ignored the brake master if leaking could affect the booster again must of issue of the booster lake from the master it ll damage the vacuum itself please advise i had some issue i m confused should test the air brake pump first
Say what, you need a bidirectional scantool to replace the master, this video wasn't about that.
You can't bleed it without the scantool.
You can get to the bottom driver side bolt through the wheel well sooo much easier if you don’t have aftermarket inner fenders. I have a manual so that slave cylinder got me slumped
nice job. helped me out a ton!
Was wondering why you couldn't just remove the 4 nuts from inside the car and remove booster that way vs taking that big plate off?
Is there a reason why you removed that alum plate from the firewall instead of unbolting the booster from the inside? Looks like the booster may have been easier to get out without the plate attached. Not criticizing, just looking for short cuts. Thanks for the info!
Give it a try from the inside. Let me know how it goes.
great informative video ....but i wish you would have shown us how you got the last two bolts off of the bracket on the firewall .....thnx
I used deep 13mm socket and a swivel, with extensions to get the ratchet
Of course I have the manual that feeds off the master cylinder lol. Will I be forced to bleed after the fact or is there a trick I can use to avoid that?
Absolutely amazing detail in the video man! Thank you!
Could you just remove the booster from the bracket instead of pulling the bracket out? Or is it just easier that way?
Usually the holes in the fire wall aren't lined up enough to get to the nuts.
Great video, unfortunately I did mine and now have a C121e code.
Great video! I hate when people cut out all of the actual work. I want to see how it actual is to remove. ;-) We get to replace mine in my 2007 tomorrow. The master cylinder had already been replaced but my brake pedal goes too far to the floor to stop. Hopefully this does the trick.
Your abs needs bleeding most likely. Booster will not fix pedal height.
Subscribed! Geat video. Going to get my hands dirty this weekend. Shop wanted $500 for it lol hell no!
Let me know how it turns out!
Appreciate the step by step, unfortunate that you need a scan tool to bleed brakes (when needed) 🤨.
If your changing a caliper, and as long as you don't drain the master, you can bleed them. You just need a scan tool if you replace or drain drain the master, .
I need to look into a cheap tool that will bleed the abs.
Looks like the high-end Autel scanners have the ability to bleed abs.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech If you replace the master cylinder on ANY car that has ABS, do you need a scan tool to bleed the ABS module?
Mine shut jeep off u can hear air at the booster
My pedal is going to the floor and seems to make the same noise running or not
You dont have to remove the brake booster bracket just the 4 nuts under the dash
You could of just unscrewed the ones inside the car
Seems like it would have been easier if you removed just the four 13mm nuts from inside the cab holding the brake booster to the firewall so there is a smaller footprint to pull out and up instead of that large plate connected with the booster. The subsequent re-install would have been 1/2 second quicker too.....not much but anything helps, haha.
Let everyone know how that goes, lol
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Yeah, probably a bad idea now that I see the distance for the pushrod and bolts to clear is increased by the thickness of the plate. This thickness also inhibits the earlier angling up of the booster in this cramp space.
Hmm. Well, the real reason is that you cant get a socket to line up with the nuts going through the fire wall. The nuts are offset just enough where you can't grab them, there is no slack in the holes in the firewall for the socket, I guess I didn't point that out in the video , sorry, go take a peek under your dash and see if the nuts and holes line up, not a single one of the 20 or 30 I've done have lined up. Maybe yours is different. 👍
Not replacing the bad master cylinder which is the root cause of the failure is absolutely not very smart
Let's hear it.
Love it! You make it look so easy! 🔧🔩❤⚙
You should have replaced the master cylinder.