It's NEVER as easy as it looks on TH-cam! My 07 took me 4 hours per axle. These midwestern winters rust everything under your vehicle, making maintenance a nightmare.
Exactly!! Looks so nice being to pull a hub bearing out and be able to re-use it. Corroded aluminum or rusty metal, bearings get destroyed trying to remove them. Cold chisel is your best friend at that point
LOL, yeah, i just did both front upper and lower ball joints and it was a nightmare. Hell, the dam cotter pins kicked my ass. I had to drill them out. But I noticed my U-Joint on front right is just flopping around in there and thought I needed to see a video first to see if I needed to have the axle out. Looks like I do. Well since I work from home, I can leave it apart until next paycheck so I don't have to pull all that apart again. Plus I need a new radiator too. Found that out today. Ugh, just 7 more months and it's paid off. Now everything starts to break. But at least I can work on it. But in the mid west, yes, all the dam road salt rust everything. Nanice!!! Thanks for the video. I really do appreciate it! Funny how most people cut out all the problems they have with bolts. But I get it.
Good overall how-to video. Just a point about the re-assembly, if the U-joint is tight upon assembly, it is usually because the caps are both pressed inward too much. If not corrected, it could lead to premature wear and failure of the U-joint. You just need to push the cross outward in each direction and ensure it's freely moving.
Agreed, i was always told to give the yoke a couple firm wacks with a hammer so the ears can return to proper position as they are likely inward slightly from having the cups pressed in.
I was thinking the same. I always gave the yokes a wack or two to loosen them up. If you rotate the axle in your hands, the end shaft should easily flop around based on it's own weight.
You can do this job with out taking off the wheel bearing from the axle, its just a lil more cumbersome... when reassembling i use copper never seize on everything, that said if your gonna seat both cups at the same time you couldve just flipped it over and used the vise, (thats what the shop man says) i personally prefer to seat the caps one at a time,, i put one cap on, hold the u joint in place over drive the cap, then put the C clip on, then i slide the u joint to the other side and put the other cap on and then back drive it til i can get the last clip on . Some times ill even add a lil extra grease to make sure the needles stay put..
Bro, thank you for the step-by-step on the video and the quality of it and not skipping all around. Appreciate the hard work and the time I took to create this 👍
Good video. I used the BFH and deep well socket method to replace the driver side joint a year ago on my 09 Jk. I had just finished ......lol after 4 days of replacing ball joints ( thinking that’s what was marking the front end squirrely) so I repulled the shaft changed the bad u-joint. I should have changed the passenger side too, but had a severe lack of enthusiasm and that joint was still good. When I had my Yukon locker put in by a local shop they changed out the stock u joints with cheap ass Chinese joints. Got 50k on drivers and a bit over 60k on the passenger. I used a higher quality Spicer joint last time. Parts store didn’t have it in stock so using a Moog this time. Bought a ball joint press like yours for the ball joints, probably hammer the old ones out and press the new one in. Thanks for the video.
Only thing you forgot to do was at the end when you finished one side of that ujoint was tight. Funny trick to do is literally hit the sides right under the caps with a hammer and the entire thing will loosen uo
From my understanding it’s easy enough to covert axle shaft to accept full retaining clip instead of oem retaining clip (which falls out on occasion). Grinder and cut off blade is all that’s needed to mod shaft.
yea i'm afraid of trying to do mine. i'm definately leaving the hubs attached if I do it cause those bolts don't look so much like bolts anymore! I like the trick of using the ball joint press to press em out, may make it easier with the rust
You make it look pretty easy. It would take me 2 days to do this job haha! That includes fighting all the stuck fasteners. I can't believe some people actually do this "on the trail." Not sure how that is possible. Anyway, I was just here to understand the job more after getting a quote from a local shop to do the job on my '07 JK, which sounded very high to me. $104 parts and $330 labor. I told them not to do it, and now I have to find a more reasonable shop to do it.
Lol that for sure. Last time I tried to take it apart the joints were so stuck inside that only way was cut it apart. Cause tried even on a press and they didn’t want to move.
I had a drive shaft ujoint on my Dodge that was so bad that we tried to push it out with the outrigger on an M984 Wrecker (~55k lbs) and all it did was crack the cap and lift the truck up.
ONE thing that this and another very good video did not do - EXTRA grease to the Needle bearings- Differential, Axles and Drivelines book recommends adding grease here - makes sense.
Im having major issues with my ujoint job, I have a 2012 Jeep Wrangler sport JK. I go on any auto parts store website, put in my vin, and shown a selection of everything that SHOULD fit. I pickup some Spicer 5-153x joints with the intention of replacing both fronts as a day job. Fought with the damn joint for 4 hours with success, but the brand new joints are significantly smaller than the bore. This is a time sensitive issue and i really need this fixed by tonight. Any help/advice is more than appreciated.
Great video pretty straightforward using common tools just curious was that a Milwaukee M18 it sounded like it cuz I have the same thing that's definitely a lifesaver to getting off big bolts nuts, and I also have a brand new ball joint press that never used it's good to know I can use it for that as well, mine is pretty loose but not like yours , it's a 2011 Jeep Wrangler jku ,I think when I change mine out I'm going to do both sides cuz I'm running Nitto 37$ and I'm going to get greaseable fittings, thanks for the very helpful and useful info keep up the good work and keep up the videos thank you
Excellent video but if it’s stiff after you get done like it seemed o the one side you did just gently wack it a couple times and it lines everything back up correctly and it will turn freely. If you don’t it will wear out a lot faster
Think this could be my issue. Just curious could you actually feel the u joints were bad while driving? Got a little quick back and forth play in my jk steering wheel. It's driving me nuts??????
The clips are suppose to be installed with the round towards the axle and hub shafts. If you notice on the yokes, there is a machined recess. This is to help center the u-joint and assure proper preload on the bearings. You're welcome. But, I have over forty years experience working on everything from Automobiles to Zenith televisions and everything that starts with every other letter of the alphabet in-between.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech How is technical advice on proper u-joint installation a "strange comment"? What's strange is: you making a video on how to do something the wrong way and have no clue of what I'm talking about. But, the next time you replace any u-joint with C clip retainers, you'll see what I'm referring to.
Thanks Cliff, it would be very helpful if you could watch more of my videos and give me some more wonderful advice. I am working very had to a good job and experience would be very very helpful. Thank you again for your time. 🥠
Btw, new Jeep wrangler owner here, 2019 JL Sport S. I have a clicking sound when 4wh is engaged,only when the wheel is turned. This is most likely a bad U- joint?
When I did this job, I backed the wheel hub bolts about a half inch out, put a sacrificial socket on them, and beat ‘em with a hammer till it was knocked loose.
thanks man great vid great camera work and lighting and editing . i pulled the axles on my 96 gcl after spotting the movement inside the u joint caps , most of the needles were gone. not having a bj press i decided to drop them at a driveline shop and for around 225 i had new spicer joints , he quoted 200 but said they were really a bitch , i believed him lol they'd been there over 25 years . ball joint press from harbor freight looks like it's high on my list of tools to acquire . thanks also for mentioning socket sizes , always helpful fo sho ! liked and subbed ciao4now peaceout jj from nj
Ha ha ha no rust, My 13 mm hub fasteners were so rusted out there wasn't even threads left on the ends. The hub had to be chiseled off. The universal clips were part of the yoke and had to be cut off. Had to press them out with a 20 ton press. Which ended up bending the yoke. New parts yoke and spline, hub bolts, universal joint. This Job was absolutely miserable. If you live anywhere the State spray the roadway with a deicer even on nice days to deplete thier stock for funds. Just buy a new vehicle.
How long would the grease last? I usually regrease every 5k miles but the axle ujoints I have are non-greasable. Was wondering how long they last or is it a take it off then regrease every so often 🥲
It's NEVER as easy as it looks on TH-cam! My 07 took me 4 hours per axle. These midwestern winters rust everything under your vehicle, making maintenance a nightmare.
Exactly!! Looks so nice being to pull a hub bearing out and be able to re-use it. Corroded aluminum or rusty metal, bearings get destroyed trying to remove them. Cold chisel is your best friend at that point
Good job good video unlike most with no lighting to see what the heck there doing
LOL, yeah, i just did both front upper and lower ball joints and it was a nightmare. Hell, the dam cotter pins kicked my ass. I had to drill them out. But I noticed my U-Joint on front right is just flopping around in there and thought I needed to see a video first to see if I needed to have the axle out. Looks like I do. Well since I work from home, I can leave it apart until next paycheck so I don't have to pull all that apart again. Plus I need a new radiator too. Found that out today. Ugh, just 7 more months and it's paid off. Now everything starts to break. But at least I can work on it. But in the mid west, yes, all the dam road salt rust everything. Nanice!!! Thanks for the video. I really do appreciate it! Funny how most people cut out all the problems they have with bolts. But I get it.
Good overall how-to video. Just a point about the re-assembly, if the U-joint is tight upon assembly, it is usually because the caps are both pressed inward too much. If not corrected, it could lead to premature wear and failure of the U-joint. You just need to push the cross outward in each direction and ensure it's freely moving.
Agreed, i was always told to give the yoke a couple firm wacks with a hammer so the ears can return to proper position as they are likely inward slightly from having the cups pressed in.
I was thinking the same. I always gave the yokes a wack or two to loosen them up. If you rotate the axle in your hands, the end shaft should easily flop around based on it's own weight.
I have replaced mine recently and developed a high pitched chirp in my 2015 JK while moving.
You can do this job with out taking off the wheel bearing from the axle, its just a lil more cumbersome... when reassembling i use copper never seize on everything, that said if your gonna seat both cups at the same time you couldve just flipped it over and used the vise, (thats what the shop man says) i personally prefer to seat the caps one at a time,, i put one cap on, hold the u joint in place over drive the cap, then put the C clip on, then i slide the u joint to the other side and put the other cap on and then back drive it til i can get the last clip on . Some times ill even add a lil extra grease to make sure the needles stay put..
Ok
Thank you for giving socket sizes as you go.
🍻
Bro, thank you for the step-by-step on the video and the quality of it and not skipping all around. Appreciate the hard work and the time I took to create this 👍
Thanks for the great comment brother!
Lighting and focus were tops! And the angles and even slow zoom in was impressive. Great production, Donny, along with good information!
Look how fast he took off that rotor. Amazing
Not going to lie the glove at end of the shaft was freaking me out 👀 Great Video
🧤
Good video. I used the BFH and deep well socket method to replace the driver side joint a year ago on my 09 Jk. I had just finished ......lol after 4 days of replacing ball joints ( thinking that’s what was marking the front end squirrely) so I repulled the shaft changed the bad u-joint. I should have changed the passenger side too, but had a severe lack of enthusiasm and that joint was still good. When I had my Yukon locker put in by a local shop they changed out the stock u joints with cheap ass Chinese joints. Got 50k on drivers and a bit over 60k on the passenger.
I used a higher quality Spicer joint last time. Parts store didn’t have it in stock so using a Moog this time. Bought a ball joint press like yours for the ball joints, probably hammer the old ones out and press the new one in. Thanks for the video.
🤙
Only thing you forgot to do was at the end when you finished one side of that ujoint was tight. Funny trick to do is literally hit the sides right under the caps with a hammer and the entire thing will loosen uo
From my understanding it’s easy enough to covert axle shaft to accept full retaining clip instead of oem retaining clip (which falls out on occasion). Grinder and cut off blade is all that’s needed to mod shaft.
You saved me a ton of money on labor..thank you
Love the sound effects. Great video. Thanks! 🎉
Most appreciated!
Thanks for the useful info. I would recommend some safety glasses for next time.
GREAT VIDEO. SO EASY TO DO WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS. AWESOME.
Thanks bud great video done deal on my 2010 140k
Can't thank you enough! Great easy to follow instructions!
Here in the great white north of Michigan use a two arm puller to remove the assembly instead of beating on it!!
Try this in the rustbelt
yea i'm afraid of trying to do mine. i'm definately leaving the hubs attached if I do it cause those bolts don't look so much like bolts anymore! I like the trick of using the ball joint press to press em out, may make it easier with the rust
You make it look pretty easy. It would take me 2 days to do this job haha! That includes fighting all the stuck fasteners. I can't believe some people actually do this "on the trail." Not sure how that is possible. Anyway, I was just here to understand the job more after getting a quote from a local shop to do the job on my '07 JK, which sounded very high to me. $104 parts and $330 labor. I told them not to do it, and now I have to find a more reasonable shop to do it.
Lol that for sure. Last time I tried to take it apart the joints were so stuck inside that only way was cut it apart. Cause tried even on a press and they didn’t want to move.
I had a drive shaft ujoint on my Dodge that was so bad that we tried to push it out with the outrigger on an M984 Wrecker (~55k lbs) and all it did was crack the cap and lift the truck up.
None of these guys ever have a frozen bolt.
Great video! Just wondering about that center hub nut. Is there a torque spec or procedure for reassembly?
There is a Torque spec for everything. I just hit it with the impact.
What I needed to know more then ever is how you put the ring on it and stick it back in
ONE thing that this and another very good video did not do - EXTRA grease to the Needle bearings- Differential, Axles and Drivelines book recommends adding grease here - makes sense.
Thanks for the info!
Great video! Very helpful. Thanks . Unfortunately I have to do both.
Im having major issues with my ujoint job, I have a 2012 Jeep Wrangler sport JK. I go on any auto parts store website, put in my vin, and shown a selection of everything that SHOULD fit. I pickup some Spicer 5-153x joints with the intention of replacing both fronts as a day job. Fought with the damn joint for 4 hours with success, but the brand new joints are significantly smaller than the bore. This is a time sensitive issue and i really need this fixed by tonight. Any help/advice is more than appreciated.
Great vid. Excellent camera work. Spend more on your parts, though.
Thanks for the video. Appreciate your time!
Great video pretty straightforward using common tools just curious was that a Milwaukee M18 it sounded like it cuz I have the same thing that's definitely a lifesaver to getting off big bolts nuts, and I also have a brand new ball joint press that never used it's good to know I can use it for that as well, mine is pretty loose but not like yours , it's a 2011 Jeep Wrangler jku ,I think when I change mine out I'm going to do both sides cuz I'm running Nitto 37$ and I'm going to get greaseable fittings, thanks for the very helpful and useful info keep up the good work and keep up the videos thank you
Yep ,m18 is great. And the ball joint press , you can use it on all kinds of parts and in all kinds of places.. Great tool. Thanks for sharing !👍
Excellent video but if it’s stiff after you get done like it seemed o the one side you did just gently wack it a couple times and it lines everything back up correctly and it will turn freely. If you don’t it will wear out a lot faster
Dang Carmax need a mechanic like you!
Hello, is it possible to replaced CV jnt by U joint.
21mm socket
36mm
12mm 12 point
Ratchet
Dead blow hammer
Hammer and chisel
Great job, thanks for sharing!
Dam. You made that look so easy.
Would the jeep shake hard if front axceil shaft at 40mph?
Think this could be my issue.
Just curious could you actually feel the u joints were bad while driving? Got a little quick back and forth play in my jk steering wheel. It's driving me nuts??????
I could just hear it.
The clips are suppose to be installed with the round towards the axle and hub shafts.
If you notice on the yokes, there is a machined recess. This is to help center the u-joint and assure proper preload on the bearings.
You're welcome.
But, I have over forty years experience working on everything from Automobiles to Zenith televisions and everything that starts with every other letter of the alphabet in-between.
Strange comment . Thanks , I guess.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech How is technical advice on proper u-joint installation a "strange comment"?
What's strange is: you making a video on how to do something the wrong way and have no clue of what I'm talking about. But, the next time you replace any u-joint with C clip retainers, you'll see what I'm referring to.
Thanks Cliff, it would be very helpful if you could watch more of my videos and give me some more wonderful advice. I am working very had to a good job and experience would be very very helpful. Thank you again for your time. 🥠
There was a huge trust factor toward the end that the caps wouldn't drop off and scatter needle bearings everywhere.... :-O
Thanks man, this helps a lot. Great vid..
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks bro !!!! Imma do this with my tj
Would it be better to replace the whole shaft?
If you got the money... $260 for 2 knock off shafts vs. $40-60 for u joints
If ujoints on frontaxcel shaft are warn out shaft could that cause front end to shake at about 40 mph apond loud mean drivibelity?
Great video !!! Very well done 👍🏼
Btw, new Jeep wrangler owner here, 2019 JL Sport S. I have a clicking sound when 4wh is engaged,only when the wheel is turned. This is most likely a bad U- joint?
Possibly
If an axle retainer is still in the axle housing how do you get it out
Coat hanger
What were the symptoms did the front end vibrate after it failed?
Just noise
Awesome tutorial!
Thanks for the great video
Great video thank you😊
Great video. Thanks!
You're welcome!
hello the end of the axle does not want to enter can you help me
Great repair! Good info...
The hub nut is 35mm
Hi question here. So its okay to hammer(metal hammer?) the axle(axle nut) to separate hub from axle
Great vid btw tnx
Be " careful"
When I did this job, I backed the wheel hub bolts about a half inch out, put a sacrificial socket on them, and beat ‘em with a hammer till it was knocked loose.
Did it squeak when you would drive ?
Yep
The 36 mm bolt has reversed threads ?
Nope
Doing this today. I ship my Jeep from Alaska on the 9th and it chose to start clicking.
Awesome video!
Just curious... how much would a shop charge for a job like this? (just change both U joints)
Around 3 hours, at what ever the shop rate is
I was just quoted $1100 for one shaft at the local JEEP dealer.
@@shawneastman9225 hahahahaha
thanks man great vid great camera work and lighting and editing . i pulled the axles on my 96 gcl after spotting the movement inside the u joint caps , most of the needles were gone. not having a bj press i decided to drop them at a driveline shop and for around 225 i had new spicer joints , he quoted 200 but said they were really a bitch , i believed him lol they'd been there over 25 years . ball joint press from harbor freight looks like it's high on my list of tools to acquire . thanks also for mentioning socket sizes , always helpful fo sho ! liked and subbed ciao4now peaceout jj from nj
Thanks Joe for sharing! Comments like this just make my day. Thanks again!
Damn 210K miles 😳
escelente trabajo
👍😀
It would be better if jeep comes up with whole axle replacement instead.
how much does a mechanic actually charge for a job like this?
About $500 total for 3 hours labor and $125 in parts. Could be more depending on the quality of parts you use.
Damn bro, make it look way to easy
Got that EP3? Honda boy?
Nice video!
If u-joint is stiff after installation just give one med-light sharp blow behind the cup at the yoke. Gotta love CHINA!
Do you still have your XJ?
Stay tuned.......
How long did this take you?
Hour.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Thanks, gonna try this weekend
Invest in impact sockets,, nice video
My 500$ 1/2 inch socket set works fine for home use.
Spend more for a quality spider and get a grease fitting.
I dont bother with the balljoint press, just cut the old joint with a torch/grinder and tap the caps thru with a socket and hammer
Unless it’s a regreasable U-joint, it’s a waste of time.
Ha ha ha no rust, My 13 mm hub fasteners were so rusted out there wasn't even threads left on the ends. The hub had to be chiseled off. The universal clips were part of the yoke and had to be cut off. Had to press them out with a 20 ton press. Which ended up bending the yoke. New parts yoke and spline, hub bolts, universal joint. This Job was absolutely miserable. If you live anywhere the State spray the roadway with a deicer even on nice days to deplete thier stock for funds. Just buy a new vehicle.
T Y
How long would the grease last? I usually regrease every 5k miles but the axle ujoints I have are non-greasable.
Was wondering how long they last or is it a take it off then regrease every so often 🥲
I haven’t greased these since this … probably gone around 80k on them.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech U drove 27k miles each year in this jeep?? yea right