Great video, easy to follow and, very helpful, good to see a proper mechanic at work too. If I can add some value to it:- 1/ You don't need to remove the heater plugs to test their resistance, this can be done in situ woth a DVM. 2/ Tighten the plugs by hand but, finish off with the torque wrench. A mechanic knows the difference as this guy does but, a civilian may not and, 15nm will feel way too loose but, it is correct. 3/ Aluminium anti seize spray helps to remove stubbon plugs, although very messy, it gets everywhere but, is fantastic stuff. 4/ If plugs are hard to remove when engine is cold, try when engine is thoroughly hot, I mean after running for say 20 mins, if that doesn't work say a prayer and, hope for the best. regards
Some very good useful advice there, thanks for your input. Definitely need to find some of this aluminium anti seize spray, working on a VW the other day there were a few bolts that seized in place due to galvanic corrosion. 3 out of the 4 plugs on this modus came out with ease but 1 would definitely have sounded nicer coming out with some form of anti seize. With regards the torque wrenches on smaller bolts, i am usually more afraid of the torque wrench being out of calibration over-tightening them and the bolts snapping. By hand its generally easier to feel how tight they go in wheras the torque wrench you tend to ignore the feel and depend too much on the torque wrench. A bad experience with a small rocker cover bolt snapping once this way has led to me being wary of 1/4 drive torque wrenches.
Problems with starting can be also caused by a faulty crankshaft positioning sensor, although it then gives a check engine and service light somethimes, but sometimes not.
@@dacomaniac Lucky you, this is cheap repair ;) In my case I had problem with pressure control on fuel rail. Control valve replaced and is perfect. And much less money than for new hp fuel pump :)
@@hxrsxjxn Hi, I didn't buy all fuel pump but the fuel pressure regulator only. This part is located on the Continental fuel pump and costs about 50 EUR. Replacement is simple but you need big wrench. You can diagnose this part by looking in Clip or PyClip software the behavior of the pressure in common rail. If it oscilate a lot this can be reason. Also if you switch off the engine the pressure shall stay on the rail, about 15 Bars. In my case it was dropping to 0 very quickly what means theat pressure regulator was not tight. And during operation pressure was between 240-260 with high frequency of changes. After replacement I have precise pressure 255-256 bars when idle and 16 bars stay in rail after swich off the engine. Check this first before you decide to replace all pump. This is much cheaper solution then all pump with new timing belt etc. :)
THANKS FOR A GOOD AND INSTRUCTIVE VIDEO. I don't know what kind of vaseline you used, I used the original high temperature resistant Liqui Moly 3381 - Injection GlowPlug Paste .
Which size fuel line is used here please. 6mm or 8mm Thanks for the video. My 1.5 dci seems to start on but runs very ‘knocky’ I guessing it could be this so going to give it a go. Thanks
Hi there I honestly do not know, i sold this Modus back in 2020, i never took any measurements of the hose to put in the video sorry. Hope you managed to measure it.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks Iv had a look I’m sure it’s 8mm I’ll replace mine and post back to confirm👍🏻 Also Iv had a grumble/knocking noise from my engine at tickover. Which is why I wanted to change this thinking maybe air was getting in. I did try injector cleaners in the fuel tank which seemed to work. But then it came back. I swapped to shell Vmax diesel. As it has added cleaners in it. And this seems to have really worked! The engine it sooo much quieter now at tickover. And indeed even when travelling. Just thought I’d add that as Iv not seen anyone mention this about the 1.5 dci
I am yet to work on a diesel car where there is not a bit of oil in the intake circuit. A small amount of oil getting past the turbo seal or oil via the crankcase breather system will cause it. I believe an oil catch can may be used to resolve this issue, although thats if your pushing the car to its limits in terms of tuning. As far as i am aware it is normal and not to be worried about.
Fabulous video, I think I may have the same issue on a Nissan NV200 van. can you tell me if the replacement fuel primer bulb is specific to the vehicle, I can only seem to find after market rubber versions that are more generic, mostly seem to be for marine engines? Many thanks
Hi there, the factory fitted bulb is a hard plastic item, not 100% sure what type of plastic but it seems like an inferior material to a proper rubber primer bulb. The one i fitted was a generic item. Still working in the modus i fitted it to.
Great video, thank you! Unfortunately hasn't really helped in my case, if anything I find it's a bit worse... any ideas would could be the problem? Slow cracking when cold starts better once it's warm, after left a couple of hrs slow crack again.
Sound trap I'm in the same boat as you with my 2010 nv200 just won't cold start if it's cold first thing in the morning been like it for 3 years. Only thing gets it starting every time without fail I have to heat the metal pipe at the back of the engine with a blowtorch for 5 second then will start first time.
Great Explanation. My Renault Duster 110(2013 Model) has a similar issue. But It starts under 10 second self in First Self Start. If I turn on the ignition and left the car on ignition for about 10 seconds and repeat it twice. Then after applying self, Engine start under 5 second. Kinldy give comment in my case.
@@pawandhiman21 Two 10 seconds of it sitting with the ignition on will get it to start, is it just an issue in the cold weather? Not a glow plug problem?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I changed all the 4 glow plugs, as 2 glow plugs were dead, but issue is still there, long cranking for the first startup of the day.
Plus, I noticed that fuel primary bulb is soft in my case. But there are no cracks on it. I pumped it untill it became hard, then car started quickly comparatively. ( in 3 seconds cranking to be exact). Is it normal that in the morning fuel primary bulb is soft or should it be hard always?
Hi, If it persists after the items covered in this video have been carried out then I would recommend having an injector leak back test performed to see if they are leaking back.
My mechanic said the issue with my qashqai which is the 1.5 dci lump is the cold start module but he doesn't know where that is. Anyone have any ideas? I've replaced the priming bulb, fuel filter and glow plugs.
The glow plug relay might be a better name to give the part you require. Google terms along the lines of 'Nissan Qasqai glow plug relay location' or terms to that effect. I am not 100% familiar with the layout of the qashqai. This might help th-cam.com/video/Vy4h1M8jME8/w-d-xo.html Owners clubs, forums, facebook owners groups all good places to ask. Let me know how you get on.
Hello, I have the same problem, but with white smoke and a smell of gas. I opened the diesel injectors and cleaned them. After that, I checked the diesel injectors and they were fine. I changed the glow plugs and there was no result. What could be the reason? Sorry for my spelling, I use Google Translate.
Hi there, white smoke may indicate a problem with the injectors. It may be necessary to have them inspected by a diesel injector specialist to carry out the necessary flow tests. Your spelling is very good.
I have problem with my Renault duster 110 dci, my car starts if I press accelerator pedal and then the engine stops immediately if I leave the accelerator pedal. What could be the problem?
@@pritesh-tu2jp Could be the fuel rail pressure sensor, or the HP pump. Head over to one of the Renault owners clubs/groups just to double check, see what other owners do when faced with that fault code. It is not something i have dealt with myself on one of these renaults which is why i can not go into any more detail.
Thanks for taking the time to make and upload this. Much appreciated. Could it be that, if the primer bulb does not hold pressure (goes hard) then it is needing replaced and likely the cause to the slow start/fuel issue? I'll be replacing this tomorrow and running new fuel lines. Ta.
The issue with the primer bulb is the material used to make it is a hard plastic which seems to crack with age. A really strange choice of material as there are rubber primer bulbs on older cars still in good condition. However its one of the easier parts to change to try and get a faster startup.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV has to be cost I guess. Mine was also cracked. New rubber bulb was fitted in mine today, still slow to start and air bubbles could be seen on the filter side of bulb. New hose just ordered. Ill be following your steps on Sunday to fit new hoses and clamps.
@@alinlepadatu95 , I did yes. my primer bulb rubber had perished and I replaced it. battery was a little under voltage, replaced. starter motor still sounded 'sluggish' replaced it and it sounded correct but still wouldn't start in the first instance. I also removed all of the main negative (earth) cabling from the bat to block/chassis/starter and cleaned the lugs and contact points with wire brush and sand paper. replaced all of the glow plugs and now it starts like a new car. follow peugeotCitroen2CV excellent video on the glow plugs then see where you are (starts/still slow). also check your battery min voltage on turn over is above 9.6v if under replace if over look at swapping starter.
@@eightdigitword thank you for the reply. Much appreciated. The battery on my car is fine. I replaced the primer bulb but in the morning is still soft and I can see air bubbles on the fuel hose from the fuel filter to primer bulb. I've replaced the fuel filter as well. Still same problem. Starts slow in the morning but during the day starts like a new car. Next step I will replace all the fuel hoses from the primer bulb to fuel filter to diesel pump. Hope it will solve my problem.
Hi, technical question. I am dealing with the slow startup problem in my Laguna 3 1.5 dci. I have to start about 3 seconds to ignition. Same at cold and hot engine. Glow plugs rather OK. Checked by multimeter. What I have noticed you replaced this manual primer pump. As far as I know 1.5 dci does not have fuel pump in tank. So my question is how it is possible that this rubber pump affects the start in 1.5 dci??? Could you give me some details? This would be helpfull. Thanks
The manual primer is an alternative to the in tank fuel pump, it can be used to manually bring fuel up to the filter housing and high pressure pump at the engine. It also contains a one way valve inside to prevent fuel going back to the tank on this input line. With age the valve can stop being effective or in the case of this modus the actual plastic housing of the primer bulb had fatigue cracks which were allowing diesel to seep out and presumably air to seep in. It was this introduction of air into the system that caused the car not to start as essentially the high pressure pump had to churn over for quite some time to draw the diesel from the tank. Personally i prefer the in tank pump to a primer bulb, although when an in tank pump goes faulty it can be more expensive to replace than a primer bulb.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you for explanation. Look like this job also waits for me. I have to check this primer bulb because still see the air before HP pump. At idle is ok but when accelerating there is a mess in the fuel pipe :) New fuel filter installation minimized this situation but not completely.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV My problem is solved :) Pressure control valve on HP fuel pump replaced. Sympthoms, very quick pressure drop on rail when ignition off. Now starts like it should be and keeps about 20 bars on rail when off.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Pyclip OBDII showed nothing if you ask about it. Symphtoms were slow start on cold and hot engine. And lag during acceleration. I had a feeling that ecu prepare the engine to slow for new conditions. I started to monitor how pressure on rail behave during start and stop. Characteristic was that after stop it eas 0 bars in 1 sec. To make sure it is a hp pump you need to make injector overflow test also. Mine were perfect so pump was the guilty. After new valve engine was strong and has quick reaction. But was shaking so I did injector adaptation by pyclip. This is very recommended. Now is quiet and rolls like crazy ;)
I have the same starting problem in my Megane 3 1.5 dci. I see some air bubbles form into the transparent fuel lines, after the yellow connector. When I try to pump the primer bulb, it makes a sort of rattling sound, as if air was passing through after I press on it. Could it be a sign the primer bulb going bad? Also, I see that the mpg are getting significantly worse, so should I think about the fuel filter too?
The primer bulb will make a noise but its more so of fuel moving rather than air, if the bulb itself has micro cracks it may be weeping out fuel. Mpg, perhaps a general service; oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter
The reality of car design, someone draws it then its up to engineers to make it all fit in that body, usually working with existing components shared between other models. I dont think the service requirements 10 years down the line are top on the design brief.
Great video, easy to follow and, very helpful, good to see a proper mechanic at work too.
If I can add some value to it:-
1/ You don't need to remove the heater plugs to test their resistance, this can be done in situ woth a DVM.
2/ Tighten the plugs by hand but, finish off with the torque wrench. A mechanic knows the difference as this guy does but, a civilian may not and, 15nm will feel way too loose but, it is correct.
3/ Aluminium anti seize spray helps to remove stubbon plugs, although very messy, it gets everywhere but, is fantastic stuff.
4/ If plugs are hard to remove when engine is cold, try when engine is thoroughly hot, I mean after running for say 20 mins, if that doesn't work say a prayer and, hope for the best.
regards
Some very good useful advice there, thanks for your input. Definitely need to find some of this aluminium anti seize spray, working on a VW the other day there were a few bolts that seized in place due to galvanic corrosion. 3 out of the 4 plugs on this modus came out with ease but 1 would definitely have sounded nicer coming out with some form of anti seize.
With regards the torque wrenches on smaller bolts, i am usually more afraid of the torque wrench being out of calibration over-tightening them and the bolts snapping. By hand its generally easier to feel how tight they go in wheras the torque wrench you tend to ignore the feel and depend too much on the torque wrench. A bad experience with a small rocker cover bolt snapping once this way has led to me being wary of 1/4 drive torque wrenches.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV great advice
Problems with starting can be also caused by a faulty crankshaft positioning sensor, although it then gives a check engine and service light somethimes, but sometimes not.
It can be the problem although if that sensor is faulty it will just churn over without starting.
Great Video, by a guy who knows what he is doing, Thanks !
such nicely put together video. So informative and nicely detailed. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment
Great video I have a modus 1.5dci and you show exactly what to do in great detail. Thank you for such good content 👍
Thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful.
i have a logan 1,5 dci and it start very difficult ..... grea vid ...thank u
Hi, did you solve thus problem? What was the case?
Yes i did.it was contacts at the crankshaft senzor.
@@dacomaniac Lucky you, this is cheap repair ;) In my case I had problem with pressure control on fuel rail. Control valve replaced and is perfect. And much less money than for new hp fuel pump :)
@@pithaller9791 how much did it cost you to buy and fit the fuel pump. I want to know as I think I have the same problem
@@hxrsxjxn Hi, I didn't buy all fuel pump but the fuel pressure regulator only. This part is located on the Continental fuel pump and costs about 50 EUR. Replacement is simple but you need big wrench. You can diagnose this part by looking in Clip or PyClip software the behavior of the pressure in common rail. If it oscilate a lot this can be reason. Also if you switch off the engine the pressure shall stay on the rail, about 15 Bars. In my case it was dropping to 0 very quickly what means theat pressure regulator was not tight. And during operation pressure was between 240-260 with high frequency of changes. After replacement I have precise pressure 255-256 bars when idle and 16 bars stay in rail after swich off the engine.
Check this first before you decide to replace all pump. This is much cheaper solution then all pump with new timing belt etc. :)
THANKS FOR A GOOD AND INSTRUCTIVE VIDEO.
I don't know what kind of vaseline you used,
I used the original high temperature resistant Liqui Moly 3381 - Injection GlowPlug Paste .
Excellent video, a wide knowledge
thats a nice video so how can i remove the fuel filter for a nissan np200 1.5 dci and also the fuel tank pipes
Hi there, not to sure if the NP200 differs much from the modus as i have never worked on one, you will need to locate those components on your van
Which size fuel line is used here please. 6mm or 8mm
Thanks for the video.
My 1.5 dci seems to start on but runs very ‘knocky’ I guessing it could be this so going to give it a go.
Thanks
Hi there
I honestly do not know, i sold this Modus back in 2020, i never took any measurements of the hose to put in the video sorry. Hope you managed to measure it.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks Iv had a look I’m sure it’s 8mm
I’ll replace mine and post back to confirm👍🏻
Also Iv had a grumble/knocking noise from my engine at tickover.
Which is why I wanted to change this thinking maybe air was getting in.
I did try injector cleaners in the fuel tank which seemed to work.
But then it came back.
I swapped to shell Vmax diesel.
As it has added cleaners in it.
And this seems to have really worked!
The engine it sooo much quieter now at tickover. And indeed even when travelling.
Just thought I’d add that as Iv not seen anyone mention this about the 1.5 dci
Noticed there's oil when the intercooler pipe joins the turbo. Surely that's not normal
I am yet to work on a diesel car where there is not a bit of oil in the intake circuit. A small amount of oil getting past the turbo seal or oil via the crankcase breather system will cause it. I believe an oil catch can may be used to resolve this issue, although thats if your pushing the car to its limits in terms of tuning.
As far as i am aware it is normal and not to be worried about.
Fabulous video, I think I may have the same issue on a Nissan NV200 van. can you tell me if the replacement fuel primer bulb is specific to the vehicle, I can only seem to find after market rubber versions that are more generic, mostly seem to be for marine engines? Many thanks
Hi there, the factory fitted bulb is a hard plastic item, not 100% sure what type of plastic but it seems like an inferior material to a proper rubber primer bulb. The one i fitted was a generic item. Still working in the modus i fitted it to.
Now thats a tight engine bay!
2005 Toyota Rav4 2.0 D4D far worse haha
Great video, thank you! Unfortunately hasn't really helped in my case, if anything I find it's a bit worse... any ideas would could be the problem? Slow cracking when cold starts better once it's warm, after left a couple of hrs slow crack again.
Sounds like a starter or battery
💪
Hi I'm having the same cold start problem! I've replaced battery/starter/glowplugs still no luck. Any ideas what else it could be?
Hi there, the fuel primer bulb is not mentioned in your comment?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV no because I can't seem to find it in the engine bay? 2013 nv200 van
Sound trap I'm in the same boat as you with my 2010 nv200 just won't cold start if it's cold first thing in the morning been like it for 3 years. Only thing gets it starting every time without fail I have to heat the metal pipe at the back of the engine with a blowtorch for 5 second then will start first time.
Great Explanation. My Renault Duster 110(2013 Model) has a similar issue. But It starts under 10 second self in First Self Start. If I turn on the ignition and left the car on ignition for about 10 seconds and repeat it twice. Then after applying self, Engine start under 5 second. Kinldy give comment in my case.
Hi, when you say self start what do you mean?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I mean Starting the Car. cranking.
@@pawandhiman21 Two 10 seconds of it sitting with the ignition on will get it to start, is it just an issue in the cold weather? Not a glow plug problem?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I changed all the 4 glow plugs, as 2 glow plugs were dead, but issue is still there, long cranking for the first startup of the day.
Plus, I noticed that fuel primary bulb is soft in my case. But there are no cracks on it. I pumped it untill it became hard, then car started quickly comparatively. ( in 3 seconds cranking to be exact). Is it normal that in the morning fuel primary bulb is soft or should it be hard always?
Hi, i've Megane 2 with same problem. If i use starter spray engine work finely, but without starter spray the engine Will not start. Any idea? Thanks
Hi,
If it persists after the items covered in this video have been carried out then
I would recommend having an injector leak back test performed to see if they are leaking back.
My mechanic said the issue with my qashqai which is the 1.5 dci lump is the cold start module but he doesn't know where that is. Anyone have any ideas? I've replaced the priming bulb, fuel filter and glow plugs.
The glow plug relay might be a better name to give the part you require.
Google terms along the lines of 'Nissan Qasqai glow plug relay location' or terms to that effect. I am not 100% familiar with the layout of the qashqai.
This might help
th-cam.com/video/Vy4h1M8jME8/w-d-xo.html
Owners clubs, forums, facebook owners groups all good places to ask.
Let me know how you get on.
Hello, if the outside temperature are 20 degree, i can change that?
Hello, I have the same problem, but with white smoke and a smell of gas. I opened the diesel injectors and cleaned them. After that, I checked the diesel injectors and they were fine. I changed the glow plugs and there was no result. What could be the reason?
Sorry for my spelling, I use Google Translate.
Hi there, white smoke may indicate a problem with the injectors. It may be necessary to have them inspected by a diesel injector specialist to carry out the necessary flow tests.
Your spelling is very good.
I have problem with my Renault duster 110 dci, my car starts if I press accelerator pedal and then the engine stops immediately if I leave the accelerator pedal. What could be the problem?
I would recommend having it connected to diagnostic equipment as a first step.
I have connected to the car scanner and error is low rail pressure.
@@pritesh-tu2jp Could be the fuel rail pressure sensor, or the HP pump.
Head over to one of the Renault owners clubs/groups just to double check, see what other owners do when faced with that fault code. It is not something i have dealt with myself on one of these renaults which is why i can not go into any more detail.
Thanks for taking the time to make and upload this. Much appreciated. Could it be that, if the primer bulb does not hold pressure (goes hard) then it is needing replaced and likely the cause to the slow start/fuel issue? I'll be replacing this tomorrow and running new fuel lines. Ta.
The issue with the primer bulb is the material used to make it is a hard plastic which seems to crack with age. A really strange choice of material as there are rubber primer bulbs on older cars still in good condition. However its one of the easier parts to change to try and get a faster startup.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV has to be cost I guess. Mine was also cracked. New rubber bulb was fitted in mine today, still slow to start and air bubbles could be seen on the filter side of bulb. New hose just ordered. Ill be following your steps on Sunday to fit new hoses and clamps.
@@eightdigitword did you sort out the problem yet? I have the same issue. I've changed the bulb and still slow start. Ta
@@alinlepadatu95 , I did yes. my primer bulb rubber had perished and I replaced it. battery was a little under voltage, replaced. starter motor still sounded 'sluggish' replaced it and it sounded correct but still wouldn't start in the first instance. I also removed all of the main negative (earth) cabling from the bat to block/chassis/starter and cleaned the lugs and contact points with wire brush and sand paper. replaced all of the glow plugs and now it starts like a new car. follow peugeotCitroen2CV excellent video on the glow plugs then see where you are (starts/still slow). also check your battery min voltage on turn over is above 9.6v if under replace if over look at swapping starter.
@@eightdigitword thank you for the reply. Much appreciated. The battery on my car is fine. I replaced the primer bulb but in the morning is still soft and I can see air bubbles on the fuel hose from the fuel filter to primer bulb. I've replaced the fuel filter as well. Still same problem. Starts slow in the morning but during the day starts like a new car. Next step I will replace all the fuel hoses from the primer bulb to fuel filter to diesel pump. Hope it will solve my problem.
Hi, is a 10mm?
Hi, technical question. I am dealing with the slow startup problem in my Laguna 3 1.5 dci. I have to start about 3 seconds to ignition. Same at cold and hot engine. Glow plugs rather OK. Checked by multimeter. What I have noticed you replaced this manual primer pump. As far as I know 1.5 dci does not have fuel pump in tank. So my question is how it is possible that this rubber pump affects the start in 1.5 dci??? Could you give me some details? This would be helpfull. Thanks
The manual primer is an alternative to the in tank fuel pump, it can be used to manually bring fuel up to the filter housing and high pressure pump at the engine.
It also contains a one way valve inside to prevent fuel going back to the tank on this input line. With age the valve can stop being effective or in the case of this modus the actual plastic housing of the primer bulb had fatigue cracks which were allowing diesel to seep out and presumably air to seep in. It was this introduction of air into the system that caused the car not to start as essentially the high pressure pump had to churn over for quite some time to draw the diesel from the tank.
Personally i prefer the in tank pump to a primer bulb, although when an in tank pump goes faulty it can be more expensive to replace than a primer bulb.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you for explanation. Look like this job also waits for me. I have to check this primer bulb because still see the air before HP pump. At idle is ok but when accelerating there is a mess in the fuel pipe :) New fuel filter installation minimized this situation but not completely.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV My problem is solved :) Pressure control valve on HP fuel pump replaced. Sympthoms, very quick pressure drop on rail when ignition off. Now starts like it should be and keeps about 20 bars on rail when off.
@@pithaller9791
Great to hear you got it sorted, was there any lights on or fault codes showing it was this sensor?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Pyclip OBDII showed nothing if you ask about it. Symphtoms were slow start on cold and hot engine. And lag during acceleration. I had a feeling that ecu prepare the engine to slow for new conditions. I started to monitor how pressure on rail behave during start and stop. Characteristic was that after stop it eas 0 bars in 1 sec. To make sure it is a hp pump you need to make injector overflow test also. Mine were perfect so pump was the guilty. After new valve engine was strong and has quick reaction. But was shaking so I did injector adaptation by pyclip. This is very recommended. Now is quiet and rolls like crazy ;)
I have the same starting problem in my Megane 3 1.5 dci. I see some air bubbles form into the transparent fuel lines, after the yellow connector. When I try to pump the primer bulb, it makes a sort of rattling sound, as if air was passing through after I press on it. Could it be a sign the primer bulb going bad?
Also, I see that the mpg are getting significantly worse, so should I think about the fuel filter too?
The primer bulb will make a noise but its more so of fuel moving rather than air, if the bulb itself has micro cracks it may be weeping out fuel.
Mpg, perhaps a general service; oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks for the quick reply!
Any ideas what size the fuel pipe is ? Eg 10mm and 6mm internal diameter ? Looking to change the fuel lines but cannot fine what size I need
You can solve the problem by using a 12 volt 74 amp battery.
Should the primer bulb remain firm once primed?
It should be firm yes, eventually it will loose the firmness but not immediatley
Damn it why did they have given z+ security to engine bay?? 😂😂
The reality of car design, someone draws it then its up to engineers to make it all fit in that body, usually working with existing components shared between other models. I dont think the service requirements 10 years down the line are top on the design brief.