You can save alot of time by removing the screen wash tank. It's held in with one bolt. Once you have removed tank you can put fuel filter and pipes in the space created saving having to disconnect fuel lines and bleeding the fuel system.
Really informative. My wife's Grand Modus has done 95K and the history says it had a belt change at 20K (interesting). I intend to tackle it soon so your video is an immense help. - I had a video of the belt change on a clio but it was in French! Many thanks.
Excellent work mate. Thanks for this, my cousin has a Dacia with this engine in it. I'm sure with the utter destitution of the economy i will end up having to do this job for her!
Thanks for the comment, Yes, im not sure any of us really know what way things will go for sure but it might encourage more people to work on their own cars and not to throw them away as quickly.
Brilliant video. Thank you. Need to do my wifes mk3 megane 1.5dci this week👍Only thing Im worried about is releasing the crank bolt without spinning the engine backwards. I do have an impact wrench
Ive took bolts off any engine i have done timing belts using the impact wrench never any issues. Ive never actually had any issues if the engine turns a bit by hand anti clockwise in the past. I know the comments would light up if i ever shown it on video but it never does any harm.
Who likes to test the timing belt before mounting al things make sure to install the cranck pulley or will slip out... the tensor doesnt have wall to guide it so only the cranck pulley will..
At that stage the fuel filter was disconnected so the car would not have started, a few turns over on the starter motor will not do that. It gives a view of the timing belt spinning with the covers removed. However yes with the crankshaft pulley removed the belt could potentially wander off the sprockets if the engine was started up and running at normal speed for any length of time. The crankshaft pulley ensures that the cambelt does not wander off.
Yes exactly, it happened to me first time i did a timing belt on one of these 1.5dci.. i did many timing belts and it never happened because i like to test before mounting all back again... so then i saw must be the tensioner that doesnt have wall... because the tension on the belt is right... So installed the cranck pulley then its ok .. Great video btw!
A truly excellent video. Everything aspect of the process is mentioned, which other videos have not covered. I really appreciate the time and effort you have taken in producing the tutorial. Wish me luck on my Kangoo 1.5Dci - I have the timing pins, water pump, cambelt kit etc, just need the Female Torx driver. Where on the sump do you support the engine? I had a look, there seems to be a reinforced area next to the clutch - is that correct, or is better to support the engine closer to the crankshaft?
Thank you very much for the kind comment, best of luck with this job and let me know how a kangoo compares to a modus for accessibility of parts. The female torx was one that came as part of a halfords 200 piece socket set, although ebay etc will have them available on their own. Supporting the engine, that transmission jack i used is about as big as the sump but i was positioned closer to the cambelt side of the engine. The gearbox is holding the engine on the other side. If you are using a jack with a narrow contact point use a piece of wood to distribute the pressure.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV HI, I now have a full set of Female Torx bits for the job. I have a further question; at 9:58, you take off the crankshaft pulley bolt, using your cordless impact wrench. The K9K workshop manual I have (which I see from the video, you also have), states that the flywheel should be locked with a screwdriver, when removing the bolt, but it doesn't specify how to do this. I have seen discussions on forums stating that using a large screwdriver could damage the ring gear. Sealy do a flywheel locking tool (SEVS1284), but I cannot see how this would engage with the flywheel, other than removing the starter motor, to insert the tool into the flywheel teeth, and even then, how would the tool be secured? Did you use any sort of tool to lock the flywheel for this job? I bought a Parkside (Lidl) PDSS 310 A3 Air Impact Driver, which supposedly can produce 310Nm of Torque, but it struggles to provide more than 70Nm (using 6.3 Bar from my 50L Compressor), and couldn't even remove the wheel bolts, tightened to 100Nm, so manual removal of the bolt may be needed. I have a K9K-718, with a 14mm crankshaft bolt, so the torque to remove it will be higher than for the 12mm variant. Any advice?
@@russellwalker9177 I only ever use the impact wrench to remove these bolts, one of the main reasons i bought it was to do crankshaft pulley bolts. Its the hassle of removing starters when the impact wrench removes it without the hassle. Although that is how those flywheel locking tools work, remove the starter and the locking tool engages with the flywheel teeth and is held in place at one of the starter bolt holes. What i bought initially was a Clarke CEW1000 mains operated impact wrench £80 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarke-Electric-Impact-Wrench-CEW1000/200666941284?epid=4025819613&hash=item2eb8ae8764:g:aoMAAOxyyF5ROxfc A handy bit of kit for the price, a bit heavy and cumbersome compared to the milwaukee cordless item but it got the job done. Lidl sell parkside mains operated impact wrenches from time to time, they generally pack a good punch for their price. The parkside air tools are good, although the 50L air compressor lidl sell can struggle even at blowing up tyres. Their air tools if you get them connected to a bigger air compressor preform quite well. The milwaukee may seem expensive i think it was over £300 but it worked out cheaper than a 200L compressor, hose and impact wrench and can go anywhere without a hose trailing it.
Thank you for that. No what i meant re the white stripes is on the new cam belt there are 4 x white stripes factory marked, two of those you placed over the mark on the cam shaft and the other one one the mark on the hp pump, my question is the other two remaining factory white lines that remain on the new cam belt do they have to line up on the crankshaft pully or anywhere else? Sorry to be a pain. Regards Jay
Hi, no its not being a pain a fairly acceptable question. I think the other line will line up with the crankshaft sprocket marking. They are just there as a guide more than anything else.
Great video, but is it not necessary to loosen the bolts on the camshaft wheel and rotating it to set the timing for the new belt correctly? Thank you for your answer.
It is there if you need some fine adjustment with the locking pin in and count less or more than 19 teeth between the mark on the fuel pump and camshaft sprockets. However if the car was running fine before and the bolts are tight and the belt slips on easily with the locking pin in place then the bolts can be left alone.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV You did well. All other people on youtube quickly loose those 3 bolts. Not to mention it never gets perfect the first attempt. You need to repeat it 5-6 times before the pins perfectly align, Also there are cars that don't have those 3 bolts and had their crackshaft pulley replaced with one with a blocker. So what will they do? :) I imagine you mounted the belt from camshaft(locked)-pump pulley-water pump pulley-cranckshaft-tensioner. You probably mounted the tensioner with the belt at the same time otherwise it would have been difficult. Another way is to mount the belt half it's width so you have more slack at the tensioner. Also noted you used sealant on some of the waterpump screws. A thing I will also do. Also the tensioner position initialy should have been at the lower end of the "window". After the 2 turns in the middle.
Hi I have a note 1.5 DCI same engine as here. Can I check the cam belt myself. Don't know if it's been changed lately and can I get cover off easily to check. ? Thanks in advance
Great video, again. I started to watch your videos about Peugeot 305, because I have Peugeot 309 diesel, and they are simmilar. I change CV boots on driveshafts without loosing nedle bearings, thanks to you. Now I prepare to change timing belt on my second car, 2007 Megane 1.5dci 78kw. My question about this video is, what is needed impact wrench torque in Nm for unscrew crankshaft pully? How to know which impact wrench is power enough to unscrew that bolt?
Hi there, thanks for the comment and great to hear from a 309 owner. Yes 305, 205, 309 very similar cars to work on. I am not sure of the exact torque figure needed to remove the bolt. Although the guide does state 120Nm when reinstalling it. However i use a Milwaukee M18 1/2 Cordless impact wrench i think it develops somewhere in the region of 600Nm, although it may be a bit pricey. The mains operated impact wrenches have a good amount of pardon the cliche 'bang for their buck' i had a clarke CEW1000 which was quite good. Lidl sell a parkside one from time to time.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks for answering, mate. unscrewing crankshaft pully bolt is not a big problem. Bigger problem is to screw it on specified torque. Is it possible to screw it against crankshaft locking tool in position. Will it brake and fall in to engine block?
mito toyo I just put on some locktite and install the bolt with just enough force to leave it tight, a light rattle of the impact gun does plenty. Obviously holding the impact gun on the bolt and going at it for too long could damage the bolt. However if you want to torque it to spec and want to lock the engine one option easier than the flywheel locking tool is to put the car in gear and put a screwdriver into the cooling fins of both brake disks. The gearbox will then essentially lock the engine and the screwdriver will have the effect of locking the wheels from moving. Another option is to put it in gear and have someone press the brake pedal.
Thanks for the comment, Yes the marker pen is one of these: amzn.to/2Ra9fiy An alternative to getting one of these pens is to get a bottle of tippex which works just as well.
what is that substance used for the water pump before and after puting the lining? where can i buy it is it included in renault's distribution kit? 17:04
Hello me again, when you removed the fuel pump sprocket was it on a keyway to ensure it goes back in the right place? Also i see u placed two of the white line marks on the cam belt over the marks on the cam and pump sprocket but i note there are two more white lines further along on the cam belt do these need to match up somewhere on the crankshaft sprocket? Thank you kindly in advance. Kind regards Jay😊
Hi Jay Yes from memory the sprocket uses a woodruf key to send drive through to the cam. The two lines, i sometimes put two marks onto each sprocket and two lines that match up with them on the engine block or nearest stationary part. I just find it adds a bit more 'resolution' if that is the right word. Rather than be out a wee bit trying to line up to one line if you work to line it back up so the two marks are lined up again it just makes double sure the cam is in the same place again. Normally one line will do fine, but its just something i do.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV actually I want to know if the timing could be set without the tdc bolt. also am currently timing the engine but the valves meet the piston And engine locks any help or idea because am not with the TDC bolt. though I got all marks on the engine
@@jephautocare1640 You can get it to TDC and use the old fashoned tippex method to mark the position of the crank and cam sprockets. However for peace of mind the correct pin kit ensures all stays in the correct position.
The locking pin went into place on the head and the new belt lined up, suppose slackening them off might be an option just to get the belt to line up if it wasnt quite hitting the right tooth. Although on this one it wasnt a problem.
It should be similar, download the manual for your megane from E manuals online which may detail the specific differences. However from memory of working on the 'big ass' meganes they are very similar to this modus but with a tad more room to work on it.
Great video. Is it necessary to change the water pump during timing belt replacement? Also what is the risk of running the car without lower timing case cover. I ve a Renault logan though.
No only if you water pump leaks and you can only see if it leeks when you take the timing belt covers off. And its a risk to drive without the cover since dirt or even small rocks you never know can get between the belt
Hello my friend thank you so much for sharing this video, i can imagine how much work has gone into producing this very detailed video for us all. Can i ask one question please, i am about to do this on a 2011 Qashqai same K9K engine and have looked at various instructions from HGS data Autodats and Alldata, they all make mention of removing one and loosening two of the bolts on the cam shaft i see the cam shaft has slots in it but noticed you didnt loosen those bolts any idea why this is advised please? Thanks again for all your hard work. Kind regards Jay
Hi It is a vernier type camshaft it can be adjusted help fit the belt a bit better. I had a citroen c5 v6 a few years ago where i adjusted them: th-cam.com/video/1kA8IU6OCTg/w-d-xo.html Around the 16:00 mark onwards for that bit It was useful on that engine as a quad cam V6 there were 4 sprockets to line up with the belt. The wee bit of adjustment provided that in them. However i find that on these K9K engines with their single camshaft sprocket the adjustment is not entirely necessary. By all means read over the guides you have, it was referenced also in the official Renault guide i followed but i did not find it necessary to touch it. The engine was held at TDC, the new belt fitted with no issues, and the car runs fine. Be aware of what it does and make the judgement on how it is sitting in your car as to weather it needs adjusted.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hello again, thank you for that kind response, it makes sense now, so long as the inner camshaft sprocket is locked to the head with the pin the crankshaft sprocket is locked via the access hole front of engine and the HP sprocket is locked it wont effect the timing if the outer camshaft sprocket moves rotates via the 3 bolts,...... me thinks! Thank you again. Kindest regards Jay
Not sure what the official documentation says, i would normally just do it at the same time as service of the engine. A fuel pump on modern diesels can cost as much as a replacement engine itself so it is worth taking the same steps to keep it running as well as possible.
Hi It was just a generic silicone rtv sealant like this one www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/sealants/permatex-clear-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealant/?locale=en
To be honest i don't know. This car was getting close to 10 years and 90k miles so anyone interested in buying it would have asked about the cambelt. With no record of it having been replaced that was why i changed it.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Can a timing belt last 10 years as I have a 2014 dacia logan mcv 1.5 dci from new with 61000 miles on the engine and would I get another 2 years before changing the belt as the car runs fine on original belt.
@@wewouldneversellourclubfor3166 I doubt it, check online to see what dacia recommends for the interval but 10 year old belt i would feel uncomfortable driving about with one. Its a lot cheaper to change the belt in time than pay to fix a damaged engine
hi man great video, I have a question for you. to remove that plastic cover to access the water pump, wouldn't it be easier to remove the tensioner pulley of the auxiliary belt only and make it slide under, let me know what you think. thanks again
Its been a while now, i think at the time i gave it a reasonably good staring at, including the factory manual which suggested removing the fuel pump pulley. I think the alternator stuck out in such a way that it prevented it sliding down thats why the pulley came off.
I actually used two pry bars to pry the pulley off, not the most professional approach hence why it didnt end up in the video. There would be pullers out there that are smal enough to get in behind the pulley. Like this one. www.ebay.co.uk/i/264061983509?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264061983509&targetid=938148484936&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007279&poi=&campaignid=10199419345&mkgroupid=101401895185&rlsatarget=aud-629407026465:pla-938148484936&abcId=1145984&merchantid=7280834&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt4X8BRCPARIsABmcnOqRRkv9wNPgIbEyrXJbdY6zyq9pu8IC22Izodppst8FhPO5jPfi9Y4aAk0rEALw_wcB
I used 2 of the long M6 bolts from engine mount bracket and a bar with 2 holes drilled in it to make small puller. There is so little space. I've ordered a US Pro tool AT091 I've got another timing belt to change next weekend.
Hi again mate. Sorry for my endless questions, but i would like to do everything in the way, which should be :) So, on 6:42 you remove the upper engine mount. Should i use the torque wrench, when i install it back? And how many N/m of torque i should to apply for the bolts, when i install the engine mount back? Thanks a lot, have a lovely weekend
Hi there, if i haven't included the torque figure in the video itself then i was not able to find it in the Renault guide. Generally I'll only use the torque wrench on head bolts if changing a head gasket, and wheel bolts after changing brake disks for the first time. You generally get used to how much torque is needed for each bolt to tighten them by hand.
Hi again mate, on 22:49 what means 120 Nm plus 95 degrees if being pedantic? OK, 120 Nm to set the torque wrench on 120 Nm, but my question is about the 95 degrees and how to set or apply them. Thank you in advance for the answer, cheers ;)
Hi, That bolt is torqued to 120Nm to begin with. That is then followed by an angular tightening of 95°. To do that you consider 0° to be where the ratchet begins tightening following the 120Nm step, turn it by 95 degrees from where it starts. A cheap way to do this is cut a piece of paper with markings for the desired angle and stop the ratchet when it points at the angle. www.demon-tweeks.com/sealey-technicians-angular-torque-gauge-1-2-inch-sq-drive-vs530-seavs530/?istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=0f6db192-3a9a-4369-b1f8-79615c622f96&istItemId=wptrirall&istBid=t
Great post again. Lovely! Yet another video about "stupid engineering"... So much stuff to be removed. Think of how much it would cost if done by a garage. If Renault want to completely build in the engine, they should make it a timing chain engine. IMHO...
Is it really that bad? I changed this timing belt and don't really consider it stupid engineering its all fairly DIY friendly, just approach it with a can do attitude. I estimate £250 - 400 for a garage to do this, although some independent mechanics may do it cheaper. Of course armed with this video, a jack, axle stands a socket set and the locking pins it could be done at home. Most transverse front wheel drive cars require a fair bit of stripping to get to the timing belt, the modus appears daunting at first but once the scuttle panels are out it is grand. As for chains they are susceptible to stretching, plastic guides snapping or tensioners failing and cost considerably more than a belt would cost to replace both in terms of parts and labour, the K12 micra for example, if i see one in the auctions making the rattling noise of a stretched chain i would run away from it, the same car equipped with this 1.5 DCI with no record of a belt its easy enough to sort out.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Guess I am too used to good old cars like a Golf mk1 or 1978 Beetle. I just don't like this plastic stuff. Look at my Aygo. Quite a simple car to work on, but already snapped some stubborn plastic parts
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I've been "can doing" since my '55 Morris as a lad. I tend to buy QUIET chain cam cars and change oil every 3k, - my 1.3 Colt is a joy to work on (I also have a pristine Primera in storage). Thank you for detailing the amount of work needed. I have an 08 diesel Grand Modus as a cheap runabout with 12 mth MOT. Decision time around March 2021 now with the knowledge of what's involved from your video.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV good video, we occasionally get cars in from other garages who take off the crank pulley then realise it's floating and has no key way. That's on the petrol engines K4M etc though.
@@danielbooth2982 Ah, i seen the deleted comment in my email and was sort of confused. The crankshaft outer pulley that drives the auxillary belt on this engine still seems to have a keyway although its not necessary to time the auxillary belt to anything, never removed the inner crankshaft sprocket on this engine, i assume it would be keyed if the outer part was. Its a nuisance when they omit the keyway for this and just use friction not sure why other than the accountants demanding pennies to be saved.
You can save alot of time by removing the screen wash tank. It's held in with one bolt. Once you have removed tank you can put fuel filter and pipes in the space created saving having to disconnect fuel lines and bleeding the fuel system.
Nice tip mate
Me encanto el truco de contar los dientes entre los 2 camshafts cuando tenes la correa tensada para saber como van entre ellos. Gracias
Really informative. My wife's Grand Modus has done 95K and the history says it had a belt change at 20K (interesting). I intend to tackle it soon so your video is an immense help. - I had a video of the belt change on a clio but it was in French! Many thanks.
Excellent work mate. Thanks for this, my cousin has a Dacia with this engine in it. I'm sure with the utter destitution of the economy i will end up having to do this job for her!
Thanks for the comment,
Yes, im not sure any of us really know what way things will go for sure but it might encourage more people to work on their own cars and not to throw them away as quickly.
Great video. Thank you. I’m now more confident to do the job by myself.
Thanks for the comment, i admire the can do attitude.
Great Video - Thanks mate. Ill be doing this job myself now.
Thanks for the comment
This has helped me doing the same with the Suzuki GV 1.9 Ddis. Thanks.
Thats interesting, is the renault 1.9 that similar to the 1.5?
Brilliant video. Thank you. Need to do my wifes mk3 megane 1.5dci this week👍Only thing Im worried about is releasing the crank bolt without spinning the engine backwards. I do have an impact wrench
Ive took bolts off any engine i have done timing belts using the impact wrench never any issues. Ive never actually had any issues if the engine turns a bit by hand anti clockwise in the past. I know the comments would light up if i ever shown it on video but it never does any harm.
Thank you.
This help me alot doing my Qashqai 1.5 dci
شكرا على معلوماتك الرائعة
Glad that you found it useful, thanks
Who likes to test the timing belt before mounting al things make sure to install the cranck pulley or will slip out... the tensor doesnt have wall to guide it so only the cranck pulley will..
At that stage the fuel filter was disconnected so the car would not have started, a few turns over on the starter motor will not do that. It gives a view of the timing belt spinning with the covers removed.
However yes with the crankshaft pulley removed the belt could potentially wander off the sprockets if the engine was started up and running at normal speed for any length of time. The crankshaft pulley ensures that the cambelt does not wander off.
Yes exactly, it happened to me first time i did a timing belt on one of these 1.5dci.. i did many timing belts and it never happened because i like to test before mounting all back again... so then i saw must be the tensioner that doesnt have wall... because the tension on the belt is right...
So installed the cranck pulley then its ok ..
Great video btw!
@@cristianojoana1898
Thanks for your comment!
thanks for the video. you have saved me hours
Thanks for the comment glad to hear it helped
Wow , the best video on the subject!
Thank you very much, really glad you found it useful
A truly excellent video. Everything aspect of the process is mentioned, which other videos have not covered. I really appreciate the time and effort you have taken in producing the tutorial. Wish me luck on my Kangoo 1.5Dci - I have the timing pins, water pump, cambelt kit etc, just need the Female Torx driver. Where on the sump do you support the engine? I had a look, there seems to be a reinforced area next to the clutch - is that correct, or is better to support the engine closer to the crankshaft?
Thank you very much for the kind comment, best of luck with this job and let me know how a kangoo compares to a modus for accessibility of parts.
The female torx was one that came as part of a halfords 200 piece socket set, although ebay etc will have them available on their own.
Supporting the engine, that transmission jack i used is about as big as the sump but i was positioned closer to the cambelt side of the engine. The gearbox is holding the engine on the other side. If you are using a jack with a narrow contact point use a piece of wood to distribute the pressure.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV HI, I now have a full set of Female Torx bits for the job. I have a further question; at 9:58, you take off the crankshaft pulley bolt, using your cordless impact wrench. The K9K workshop manual I have (which I see from the video, you also have), states that the flywheel should be locked with a screwdriver, when removing the bolt, but it doesn't specify how to do this. I have seen discussions on forums stating that using a large screwdriver could damage the ring gear. Sealy do a flywheel locking tool (SEVS1284), but I cannot see how this would engage with the flywheel, other than removing the starter motor, to insert the tool into the flywheel teeth, and even then, how would the tool be secured?
Did you use any sort of tool to lock the flywheel for this job?
I bought a Parkside (Lidl) PDSS 310 A3 Air Impact Driver, which supposedly can produce 310Nm of Torque, but it struggles to provide more than 70Nm (using 6.3 Bar from my 50L Compressor), and couldn't even remove the wheel bolts, tightened to 100Nm, so manual removal of the bolt may be needed. I have a K9K-718, with a 14mm crankshaft bolt, so the torque to remove it will be higher than for the 12mm variant.
Any advice?
@@russellwalker9177
I only ever use the impact wrench to remove these bolts, one of the main reasons i bought it was to do crankshaft pulley bolts. Its the hassle of removing starters when the impact wrench removes it without the hassle.
Although that is how those flywheel locking tools work, remove the starter and the locking tool engages with the flywheel teeth and is held in place at one of the starter bolt holes.
What i bought initially was a Clarke CEW1000 mains operated impact wrench £80
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarke-Electric-Impact-Wrench-CEW1000/200666941284?epid=4025819613&hash=item2eb8ae8764:g:aoMAAOxyyF5ROxfc
A handy bit of kit for the price, a bit heavy and cumbersome compared to the milwaukee cordless item but it got the job done. Lidl sell parkside mains operated impact wrenches from time to time, they generally pack a good punch for their price. The parkside air tools are good, although the 50L air compressor lidl sell can struggle even at blowing up tyres. Their air tools if you get them connected to a bigger air compressor preform quite well.
The milwaukee may seem expensive i think it was over £300 but it worked out cheaper than a 200L compressor, hose and impact wrench and can go anywhere without a hose trailing it.
Russell, did you have to remove the fuel pump sprocket on the Kangoo?...or was moving the alternator sufficient?...thanks Martyn
@@martynwellfair8615 Hi Martyn, I haven’t actually done the job yet so cannot answer. Maybe CitroenPeugoet2CV can answer?
Excellent professional job.
Thanks for the comment
Great working
Thank you for that.
No what i meant re the white stripes is on the new cam belt there are 4 x white stripes factory marked, two of those you placed over the mark on the cam shaft and the other one one the mark on the hp pump, my question is the other two remaining factory white lines that remain on the new cam belt do they have to line up on the crankshaft pully or anywhere else?
Sorry to be a pain.
Regards Jay
Hi, no its not being a pain a fairly acceptable question.
I think the other line will line up with the crankshaft sprocket marking. They are just there as a guide more than anything else.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thank you for being so kind and taking the time to come back to me.
Kindest regards Jay
Your videos are excellent.
Thanks for the comment
Excellent and well filmed, great information too.
Thanks for the comment
An excellent, informative and well made video. Thank you.
Thank you very much for the kind comment
EXCELLENT VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS !!!
Thank you very much for the comment
Great video, but is it not necessary to loosen the bolts on the camshaft wheel and rotating it to set the timing for the new belt correctly? Thank you for your answer.
It is there if you need some fine adjustment with the locking pin in and count less or more than 19 teeth between the mark on the fuel pump and camshaft sprockets.
However if the car was running fine before and the bolts are tight and the belt slips on easily with the locking pin in place then the bolts can be left alone.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV You did well. All other people on youtube quickly loose those 3 bolts. Not to mention it never gets perfect the first attempt. You need to repeat it 5-6 times before the pins perfectly align, Also there are cars that don't have those 3 bolts and had their crackshaft pulley replaced with one with a blocker. So what will they do? :) I imagine you mounted the belt from camshaft(locked)-pump pulley-water pump pulley-cranckshaft-tensioner. You probably mounted the tensioner with the belt at the same time otherwise it would have been difficult. Another way is to mount the belt half it's width so you have more slack at the tensioner. Also noted you used sealant on some of the waterpump screws. A thing I will also do. Also the tensioner position initialy should have been at the lower end of the "window". After the 2 turns in the middle.
Thanks, a very educational video. I appreciate your effort to make this video👍😁.
Thans for the comment, glad that the video was helpful.
Hi I have a note 1.5 DCI same engine as here. Can I check the cam belt myself. Don't know if it's been changed lately and can I get cover off easily to check. ? Thanks in advance
Hi there, the upper cover gets removed at the 8:00 mark, that will give access to visually inspect the belt. Although it is only a visual check.
excellent video
Great video, again. I started to watch your videos about Peugeot 305, because I have Peugeot 309 diesel, and they are simmilar. I change CV boots on driveshafts without loosing nedle bearings, thanks to you. Now I prepare to change timing belt on my second car, 2007 Megane 1.5dci 78kw. My question about this video is, what is needed impact wrench torque in Nm for unscrew crankshaft pully? How to know which impact wrench is power enough to unscrew that bolt?
Hi there, thanks for the comment and great to hear from a 309 owner. Yes 305, 205, 309 very similar cars to work on.
I am not sure of the exact torque figure needed to remove the bolt. Although the guide does state 120Nm when reinstalling it.
However i use a Milwaukee M18 1/2 Cordless impact wrench i think it develops somewhere in the region of 600Nm, although it may be a bit pricey.
The mains operated impact wrenches have a good amount of pardon the cliche 'bang for their buck' i had a clarke CEW1000 which was quite good. Lidl sell a parkside one from time to time.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks for answering, mate. unscrewing crankshaft pully bolt is not a big problem. Bigger problem is to screw it on specified torque. Is it possible to screw it against crankshaft locking tool in position. Will it brake and fall in to engine block?
mito toyo
I just put on some locktite and install the bolt with just enough force to leave it tight, a light rattle of the impact gun does plenty. Obviously holding the impact gun on the bolt and going at it for too long could damage the bolt.
However if you want to torque it to spec and want to lock the engine one option easier than the flywheel locking tool is to put the car in gear and put a screwdriver into the cooling fins of both brake disks. The gearbox will then essentially lock the engine and the screwdriver will have the effect of locking the wheels from moving. Another option is to put it in gear and have someone press the brake pedal.
Best explanation ever.Thanks
Good video by the way
Thanks for that!
Good video.....I have a 2016 renault kadjar 1.5dci so would this be same ? Thanks.
Thank you. Appreciate if you could provide some details of that marker pen used for timing marks.
Thanks for the comment,
Yes the marker pen is one of these: amzn.to/2Ra9fiy
An alternative to getting one of these pens is to get a bottle of tippex which works just as well.
Interestingly on my car water came out of bolts 1 and 5 of the water pump. I put sealent on both bolts.
There might be some variations between the years with regards what bolts go through.
what is that substance used for the water pump before and after puting the lining? where can i buy it is it included in renault's distribution kit? 17:04
Hello me again, when you removed the fuel pump sprocket was it on a keyway to ensure it goes back in the right place?
Also i see u placed two of the white line marks on the cam belt over the marks on the cam and pump sprocket but i note there are two more white lines further along on the cam belt do these need to match up somewhere on the crankshaft sprocket?
Thank you kindly in advance.
Kind regards Jay😊
Hi Jay
Yes from memory the sprocket uses a woodruf key to send drive through to the cam.
The two lines, i sometimes put two marks onto each sprocket and two lines that match up with them on the engine block or nearest stationary part. I just find it adds a bit more 'resolution' if that is the right word. Rather than be out a wee bit trying to line up to one line if you work to line it back up so the two marks are lined up again it just makes double sure the cam is in the same place again. Normally one line will do fine, but its just something i do.
am jeph from Ghana. when the belt snaps off the marks normally get mislined and engine locks
Hi there Jeph
Not entirely sure if you are making a statement or asking a question?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
actually I want to know if the timing could be set without the tdc bolt. also am currently timing the engine but the valves meet the piston And engine locks any help or idea because am not with the TDC bolt. though I got all marks on the engine
@@jephautocare1640
You can get it to TDC and use the old fashoned tippex method to mark the position of the crank and cam sprockets. However for peace of mind the correct pin kit ensures all stays in the correct position.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV please what is the reference number for the alternator drive belt
@@jephautocare1640 Hi, unfortunately i dont know. It's something the motor factors provides based on your cars details.
Is there a reason why you don't have to touch the three camshaft pulley bolts on this engine?
The locking pin went into place on the head and the new belt lined up, suppose slackening them off might be an option just to get the belt to line up if it wasnt quite hitting the right tooth. Although on this one it wasnt a problem.
Great video would this be the same principle with a 1.5 dci megane mk2 05 plate 👍
It should be similar, download the manual for your megane from E manuals online which may detail the specific differences.
However from memory of working on the 'big ass' meganes they are very similar to this modus but with a tad more room to work on it.
18:55 a small part of backside of pump pulley is also in my engine broken, does it need to be replaced?
Great video. Is it necessary to change the water pump during timing belt replacement? Also what is the risk of running the car without lower timing case cover. I ve a Renault logan though.
No only if you water pump leaks and you can only see if it leeks when you take the timing belt covers off. And its a risk to drive without the cover since dirt or even small rocks you never know can get between the belt
Hello my friend thank you so much for sharing this video, i can imagine how much work has gone into producing this very detailed video for us all.
Can i ask one question please, i am about to do this on a 2011 Qashqai same K9K engine and have looked at various instructions from HGS data Autodats and Alldata, they all make mention of removing one and loosening two of the bolts on the cam shaft i see the cam shaft has slots in it but noticed you didnt loosen those bolts any idea why this is advised please?
Thanks again for all your hard work.
Kind regards Jay
Hi
It is a vernier type camshaft it can be adjusted help fit the belt a bit better. I had a citroen c5 v6 a few years ago where i adjusted them:
th-cam.com/video/1kA8IU6OCTg/w-d-xo.html
Around the 16:00 mark onwards for that bit
It was useful on that engine as a quad cam V6 there were 4 sprockets to line up with the belt. The wee bit of adjustment provided that in them.
However i find that on these K9K engines with their single camshaft sprocket the adjustment is not entirely necessary. By all means read over the guides you have, it was referenced also in the official Renault guide i followed but i did not find it necessary to touch it. The engine was held at TDC, the new belt fitted with no issues, and the car runs fine.
Be aware of what it does and make the judgement on how it is sitting in your car as to weather it needs adjusted.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
Hello again, thank you for that kind response, it makes sense now, so long as the inner camshaft sprocket is locked to the head with the pin the crankshaft sprocket is locked via the access hole front of engine and the HP sprocket is locked it wont effect the timing if the outer camshaft sprocket moves rotates via the 3 bolts,...... me thinks!
Thank you again.
Kindest regards Jay
What sealant did you use on the water pump bolt?
Hi, just ordinary RTV silicone sealant from the local motor factors. Not too sure what specific brand.
Excellent, thanks
How long is the life of the fuel filter mate? Should i change it as well? Great video, thank you
Not sure what the official documentation says, i would normally just do it at the same time as service of the engine. A fuel pump on modern diesels can cost as much as a replacement engine itself so it is worth taking the same steps to keep it running as well as possible.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV , thank you for the answer mate, cheers ;)
Which sealant you use on 17:34 and on 18:47 mate? Thanks again!
Hi
It was just a generic silicone rtv sealant like this one
www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/sealants/permatex-clear-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealant/?locale=en
@@peugeotCitroen2CV , thanks a lot for the answer mate
Awesome thankyou
Thanks for the commment
How many miles should you change the cambelt please? Is it 90,000 miles ? Thanks
To be honest i don't know. This car was getting close to 10 years and 90k miles so anyone interested in buying it would have asked about the cambelt. With no record of it having been replaced that was why i changed it.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
Can a timing belt last 10 years as I have a 2014 dacia logan mcv 1.5 dci from new with 61000 miles on the engine and would I get another 2 years before changing the belt as the car runs fine on original belt.
@@wewouldneversellourclubfor3166
I doubt it, check online to see what dacia recommends for the interval but 10 year old belt i would feel uncomfortable driving about with one. Its a lot cheaper to change the belt in time than pay to fix a damaged engine
well done!!
hi man great video, I have a question for you. to remove that plastic cover to access the water pump, wouldn't it be easier to remove the tensioner pulley of the auxiliary belt only and make it slide under, let me know what you think. thanks again
Its been a while now, i think at the time i gave it a reasonably good staring at, including the factory manual which suggested removing the fuel pump pulley. I think the alternator stuck out in such a way that it prevented it sliding down thats why the pulley came off.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV ok, thank you very much!!!
Struggling with pulling fuel pump pulley of all my good pullers are to big for the space available. Any advice would be much appreciated.
I actually used two pry bars to pry the pulley off, not the most professional approach hence why it didnt end up in the video. There would be pullers out there that are smal enough to get in behind the pulley. Like this one.
www.ebay.co.uk/i/264061983509?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264061983509&targetid=938148484936&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007279&poi=&campaignid=10199419345&mkgroupid=101401895185&rlsatarget=aud-629407026465:pla-938148484936&abcId=1145984&merchantid=7280834&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt4X8BRCPARIsABmcnOqRRkv9wNPgIbEyrXJbdY6zyq9pu8IC22Izodppst8FhPO5jPfi9Y4aAk0rEALw_wcB
I used 2 of the long M6 bolts from engine mount bracket and a bar with 2 holes drilled in it to make small puller. There is so little space. I've ordered a US Pro tool AT091 I've got another timing belt to change next weekend.
@@paulmiller6277 The AT091 looks like a handy puller, let me know how well it works at removing the pulley.
Hi again mate. Sorry for my endless questions, but i would like to do everything in the way, which should be :)
So, on 6:42 you remove the upper engine mount. Should i use the torque wrench, when i install it back? And how many N/m of torque i should to apply for the bolts, when i install the engine mount back? Thanks a lot, have a lovely weekend
Hi there, if i haven't included the torque figure in the video itself then i was not able to find it in the Renault guide.
Generally I'll only use the torque wrench on head bolts if changing a head gasket, and wheel bolts after changing brake disks for the first time. You generally get used to how much torque is needed for each bolt to tighten them by hand.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV, thanks a lot mate
Hi again mate, on 22:49 what means 120 Nm plus 95 degrees if being pedantic? OK, 120 Nm to set the torque wrench on 120 Nm, but my question is about the 95 degrees and how to set or apply them. Thank you in advance for the answer, cheers ;)
Hi,
That bolt is torqued to 120Nm to begin with.
That is then followed by an angular tightening of 95°. To do that you consider 0° to be where the ratchet begins tightening following the 120Nm step, turn it by 95 degrees from where it starts.
A cheap way to do this is cut a piece of paper with markings for the desired angle and stop the ratchet when it points at the angle.
www.demon-tweeks.com/sealey-technicians-angular-torque-gauge-1-2-inch-sq-drive-vs530-seavs530/?istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=0f6db192-3a9a-4369-b1f8-79615c622f96&istItemId=wptrirall&istBid=t
@@peugeotCitroen2CV, Thank you for the clear and always on time answer mate
@@catrevenger Thanks
👍well done!!!
Thanks for the comment
Why You font show when tight the pouley with dinamometic?
Hi, not entirely sure what you are asking here?
Great post again. Lovely!
Yet another video about "stupid engineering"... So much stuff to be removed. Think of how much it would cost if done by a garage.
If Renault want to completely build in the engine, they should make it a timing chain engine.
IMHO...
Is it really that bad? I changed this timing belt and don't really consider it stupid engineering its all fairly DIY friendly, just approach it with a can do attitude.
I estimate £250 - 400 for a garage to do this, although some independent mechanics may do it cheaper.
Of course armed with this video, a jack, axle stands a socket set and the locking pins it could be done at home.
Most transverse front wheel drive cars require a fair bit of stripping to get to the timing belt, the modus appears daunting at first but once the scuttle panels are out it is grand.
As for chains they are susceptible to stretching, plastic guides snapping or tensioners failing and cost considerably more than a belt would cost to replace both in terms of parts and labour, the K12 micra for example, if i see one in the auctions making the rattling noise of a stretched chain i would run away from it, the same car equipped with this 1.5 DCI with no record of a belt its easy enough to sort out.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
Guess I am too used to good old cars like a Golf mk1 or 1978 Beetle.
I just don't like this plastic stuff. Look at my Aygo. Quite a simple car to work on, but already snapped some stubborn plastic parts
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Oh, and thank you for your response
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I've been "can doing" since my '55 Morris as a lad. I tend to buy QUIET chain cam cars and change oil every 3k, - my 1.3 Colt is a joy to work on (I also have a pristine Primera in storage). Thank you for detailing the amount of work needed. I have an 08 diesel Grand Modus as a cheap runabout with 12 mth MOT. Decision time around March 2021 now with the knowledge of what's involved from your video.
At 11:01 that is the camshaft pulley and not the crankshaft pulley.
Indeed an error well spotted, unfortunately its there for good youtube doesnt really have a good system for allowing edits after an upload.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV good video, we occasionally get cars in from other garages who take off the crank pulley then realise it's floating and has no key way. That's on the petrol engines K4M etc though.
@@danielbooth2982
Ah, i seen the deleted comment in my email and was sort of confused.
The crankshaft outer pulley that drives the auxillary belt on this engine still seems to have a keyway although its not necessary to time the auxillary belt to anything, never removed the inner crankshaft sprocket on this engine, i assume it would be keyed if the outer part was. Its a nuisance when they omit the keyway for this and just use friction not sure why other than the accountants demanding pennies to be saved.
جمعتي بولا. البريشوفاج مع بولا حرارة المحرك
Google translate has gave me "Paula gathered. Preshovage with Pola Heat Engine"
i assume it has got the translation wrong.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏽🇨🇮
Thanks for the comment
8
Great number, not always the number needed but when called upon it rarely fails.
I would to say "thank you for sharing this video it was so help full to me" Allow me to subscribe to channel thanks.
Hi there, thank you very much for the comment. By all means subscribe glad to hear it.