Take care of them and they will run foreva! And with you bringin viewers/customers into the shop, I sure hope the bossman’s takin care of ya somehow brotha!
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod in due time, in due time. You’re makin them more money by bringing them in. They should do SOMETHING to show their appreciation whether it be free oil changes for life, or monetary comprehension be it a raise, or varying bonuses dependent on the amount of business you bring to the shop. Just my $.02 though lol I see you, at some point, opening your own shop similar to the TH-cam channel @FordTechMakuloco has.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thank YOU brotha! Know a lot about vehicles, but extremely minimal about diesels. Until I found your channel couple years back. Learned a lot about diesels, more so about the venerable Ford SuperDuty 6.7 Scorpion PowerStroke. Between you and Powerstrokehelp.com, I’ve learned A LOT. Just being an owner and not a tech, you’ve saved me time/trouble/money, so I thank YOU! Now you’ve just gotta upload more than one video a week! Lol
Professional diagnostics here, thanks for the details and doing things 100%! You’re a help to us all… even other “professionals” Keep teaching and spreading the info!
Much appreciation, my wire was broken EXACTLY where yours was! In the past I've always found the break to be on the passenger side right where the wire enters that plastic tray/channel running parallel with the block. WHY Ford didn't sheath or loom that wiring is beyond excuse!
I realized when working on my truck that it’s actually the top LEFT 4th pin over. On the video it showed the right pin. Still a killer video. Wouldn’t have figured out my problems without it. 💪🏼👍🏼
Actually if you rewatch the video he doesn't show you that he made a mistake. He put it in one spot and the video cuts and he removes it from a different spot
Hi A Rod. I want to thank you for this video! It fixed my battery issue . I replace all three wires. I pulled my hair out for two weeks chasing this crap.
Your video helped me 100%! Ford garage charged $880 to fix one wire. With your video I spend 1.5 hours troubleshooting and fixing a second wire 6 months later. Thank you!
You're a credit to your profession. I just own one of these trucks and enjoy watching as many videos as I can. Love watching your videos. Very educational.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!! I've been rolling around with a charging issue for several months now. I blindly replaced the battery and alternator trying to cut some corners. Obviously since I'm here, that didn't work. I found a corroded wire right where you said I would. Can't thank you enough for posting these
I run overlays on our fleet when this happens, there's a trough that runs in front of the turbo. It's a piece of cake and I never have any further problems with those circuits. I use wire loom to protect it and a couple zip ties to secure it. Popping off the air intake hose is necessary and you might find removing other hoses makes it easier too. Love your videos, just thought I'd give some details in case some folks wanted to take this route.
Pay attention to the second pin location on the PCM connector / not 4 from the bottom, 4 from the top. (5.22). Yellow wire, real high resistance, thanks for the video, well done!
Excellent explanation sir. Im currently digging into a F550, started off by overcharging, and now battery light is on. But I can make it go on and off by wiggling the plug. So I replaced the pigtail thinking the terminals are probably spread, nope. But wiggling the plug itself now sometimes causes the light and sometimes doesn’t. I suspect its the alternator itself with a bad connection inside, even thou it looks just ducky. Unfortunately the alternator is a HUGE pain to replace, because this truck has dual alternators and a underhood V-mac air compressor which essentially encases the alternator with its mounting bracket. 🤬
I'll be checking this on mine tomorrow as I have a battery light on. I have the OBD Link MX Bluetooth scan tool that shows my PIDS on my phone while driving. I see that the alternator is charging the system to the tune of about 14.1 volts, but funny thing is...it takes it a little while to get there. Initially after start up it is only charging at 12 volts or maybe just showing the current battery charge level. Ill continue to troubleshoot. This video helps tremendously. Thanks so much.
We just run an overlay on those from the alternator connector to Grey connector by battery and run it along the cowl, otherwise it will be back with the same problem just in a different location!! And now it’s the techs fault!
fantastic narration and explaining things ARod!!! Battery light came on Friday ( 2016 F350 with a Lance camper on her ) Then it went off ...now back on. After work I'll poke around and see if I can find the issue
Your heaven sent thank you so much 👊🏻 southeast Idaho these idiots changed my transmission it was still slipping so they changed my alternator battery lights still on transmission still slipping not sure if their related but. Thanks again for your videos
I have a battery light on, my dash cluster cuts out (all lights and gages go dead) and will come back on? Notice my Insight monitor shows upwards of 17 volts when the dash cluster cuts out? (@ 14 volts when cluster is on and working?) Would issues with this wire cause these symptoms as well? Or do I need to look into something else? Thanks in advance, great videos!
good morning! i have the same issue with that yellow wire not reading anything on my meter...repaired wire and now have a reading but the check charging light is still on after repair. Anything else i should be looking for???
Will the light affect the drive ability? My light came on and alternator was bad changed it and still have light on. It’s my daily driver can I drive it until I get time to trace it down
Hey, great video. I have a 2016 F350 that has the Battery light on. I followed this video and over overlaid the wire that goes directly from the alternator to the PCM connector(it was broken somewhere), Battery light is still on. Exactly where is the Fusible link you talk about for the second wire that is near the battery?? Do you have an other video that shows that in more detail? A picture of what the fusible link looks like? I assume removing the battery on that side is required?? Thx Greg
Hello again, I am still having issues with my battery light on. I've a 2016 F350. I have re-watched your video a number of times. Followed the testing. I have previously overlaid the yellow wire to the PCM connector, it was broken somewhere). Yesterday, I followed the purple/violet wire, and traced Pin 14 at the PCM connector, the wire there is blue with a red/orange stripe... is this the right wire? I spliced this with an overlaid purple wire, but my battery light was still on. So I re-connected the wire I had just cut. After I had done this someone asked me if I cleared the codes... I didn't. No where in your video do you mention to clear codes. 1. Is the purple wire from the alternator the same wire as Pin 14, the blue/red stripe wire?? 2. Is clearing codes a requirement?? (Disconnect the battery + cables for 15 minutes to clear) Thx Greg
Great video as always! I’ve seen the break at the bend on the pass side but never there. I wanted to see the other broken end of that wire lol. Good looking truck for the age/mileage, she’s a workin girl you can tell. Speaking of working girls, all my ex’s live in Texas.
@thomaslong6403 watch thee other videos in the BATTERY playlist. U need to confirm those wires can carry a load. Sure 1 strand of copper will tell you their connected but will not carry any voltage
Honest question here so I can test this properly. It looked like on step 2. After you tested a complete circuit it looks like you had the test wire plugged into a different pin than the one you originally described to test. Is that the case? Were you on the wrong side of the plug originally?
This is the same thing I’m at right now. I thought I had an issue with that brown wire on pin 14 but when I check it on the pin where the lead is I have continuity. Last time I had this issue it was just batteries. When I check on pin 53 I have continuity and step one with the red wire I have battery voltage.
This is a great video! My f550 service truck has a P0625 2F fault. It has dual alternators. Im not familiar with that system completely but i am going to start with these checks.
@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I will to let you know how you helped me! I disconnected the plug for the alternator on the driver side (the plug you showed) and the battery light went out. My system is charging. When I plugged it back in the light came back. I'll verify the circuit tomorrow.
@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Hey! Sorry it's been a bit but I've been super busy with work. I got a chance to check the wiring and found a schematic. Ohmed the wires and all were good. Load tested them to verify and all are good. Found out the passenger side alternator is F and the driver side is G. So I have a faulty F alternator. But I learned a valuable tip through you and I appreciate it so much. Thank you. I am now subscribed to you.
Excellent troubleshooting video. Thanks. However, my truck d 2008 f250 with 6.4. The pcm connector is different. Do you have that pin out diagram please?
Check out lisle tools new test light has a digital voltage display with led red for power green for ground has an incandescent bulb aswell with a switch push button style will load the circuit with a 1/3 Amp load and you can see the voltage drop aswell when loaded makes circuit testing and load testing much easier
Brother man! So I fixed my yellow, all good. Battery light a year later…red wire, went to fixing that..didn’t pull battery cables 😒, arched now I can’t get power out of the red and that of course caused an over voltage situation, which was not my original issue so I think I created my red issue. Can’t locate the fuse-able link. I needed the rig so I ran a wire off the battery 😬 Well lights back but it’s very spastic so usually but the time I get to checking the wires it’s showing good continuity again 🤬. So I think I’m going to run new wires from the PCM harness to the Alternator and be done with it. Then once I locate the fusable link get that right. Thoughts and can you give any details on the location of that link? I have looked at diagrams and I’m baffled on why I can’t locate. My local ford dealer in CDA Idaho told me there wasn’t a fusable link and that it ran off the Master fuse….😅…I’ve sorted that as misinformation. Thanks in advance boss man!!
Hey bud! I have a 2016 f250 with this issue. Very similiar wireing howver it doesnt cross over the engine. Its basically all on passenger side. 6.2 engine. I found the alt overcharging at almost 16 volts. Then found the fusible link blowed. The other 2 wires both red good with meter. However i did not load test them. Would u recomment i load test them somehow or buy a new alt? Thanks!
So I added a wire into the pin locations on the connector at the firewall. And connected it to + battery. Then with my test light I connected to - and then probed the connector at the alt for both those wires and it lit good. I held it on there for a while. I did find however that the red power wire had a blown fusible link. (Before any of this testing) I jumped the link with a solid wire for testing and I still get a battery light and the dash will go crazy. Like the radio will shut off and fan stop working. Then all is good again. Any advice?
There is none. And it only happens occasionally. It basically shuts off all power to everything inside cab. Engine runs fine tho the whole time. I've checked for loose connections up under dash by doing the wiggle test and nothing.
I have a 2008 6.4 F-250 with the battery light on. Are the pinouts the same for testing purposes as in this video? I had my truck in a Ford shop for other reasons including replacing the alternator which they did twice but still couldn't get the light to turn off. But the alternator is now charging correctly. Before the voltage was too high.
First of all, THANK YOU for posting these videos on these trucks! Second, I think my issue is from the fusible link to the generator connector. I tested the voltage coming from the link to the connector and only have 6.8 volts... I'm assuming it should be the same as the batteries which is in the 12.5 - 13 volt range? As I was trying to diagnose the issue (instrument cluster shutting off and coming back on randomly, radio on and off and HVAC system on and off...) I had my cheap scan tool watching the vehicle voltage while idling and when it happens, it spikes upwards of 17.5-18 volts and then goes back to normal for a while at around 14 ish volts. Do you think I'm on the right track? Again, thank you for the great and insightful content man! It is greatly appreciated!!!
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Got it all put back together and it's fixed! (fingers crossed...) I wasn't able to find the break in the wire though... granted it was 38 degrees, raining and dark in my driveway here in Montana, so I just dead ended the factory wire and ran a new one in a loom. Soldered it in and so far so good! THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Don't let the red wire fool you. Don't just load test with a light. Check it with ohmmeter. If the wire shows any resistance at all, run a new wire alternator to battery. The battery tested 12.4 volts at the posts but at the alternator that red wire tested 11.8 volts... revealing there is resistance in the wire not allowing all the voltage to pass through it, basically now sending a message back to the alternator that it needs to generate more power. This more voltage output, as high as 16.4 on our truck, now sends a signal to the PCM that too much power is being generated and goes into a safe protection mode and shuts down electronics such as instrument cluster, dome light, radio etc. The heater will come on thru the defroster, because the blend door is now not working and goes to neutral mode. The FASS fuel pump would speed up, telling us more voltage was being generated than needed. We ran a new red wire from the alternator to the fuseable link and if fixed the problem. Evidently their is corrosion in the old red wire somewhere creating resistance, not allowing the full 12.4 volts to be reported to the alternator, causing it to kick up power. It was a 5 day project to figure this out. Hope this helps someone.
Your video was very helpful. Found my wires were at fault and so instead of playing with splices that I was not sure would hold that lone, I replaced all three wires with an overlay in a separate conduit. Tied in to the yellow and purple wire at the PCM connector and then to the alternator connector. Ran a new red wire from the passenger side battery to the alternator connector and put a 5a fuse inline. Batt light was out, took the vehicle out to see if the problem was gone, but then the batt light cycled back on and off on when driving the vehicle. Also, had the dash lights cycle on and off (not at the same time as the batt light) randomly. Vehicle ran alright and this was completely random. Thoughts?
Do you have any clup where you walkthrough the wire repair? I can see the corrosion (and have the fault) but the whole taped up loom is so tight I can't seem to get the wire out so I can repair it. I'm a bit hesitant to do damage to other wires by pulling on the entire loom and the space is super tight. Any big tips getting in there?
QUESTION: I’ve tested both battery and alternators (two) on my 17’ F350 Superduty and both are showing proper readings, however, I still have both battery light and message light on the dash. My question is, if one of those wires were severed will the alternator still charge and show a proper reading, but trigger the system to show trouble light?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod has dual alternators, took them both off had them tested. Came back good.battery’s, 6 months old clean terminals. Load tested good
I'm having an intermitten issue with the battery light coming on on my 6.7 2011... When I test the yellow wire the resistance is reading 2.5-2.9 as opposed to the .2 that you were showing in the video... What does that mean for my scenario?
I have a 2019 ford F450 with a 6.7 power stroke. This engine has 2 alternators. I experienced a similar problem. batttery light was on intermittently with a code p0620 set. This is an everyday work truck. Basically the charging system defaulted to charing 13.4 volts. We have the truck in the garage now and ran that test of the wires from the pcm connector to both alternators. found the yellow wire to the drivers side alternator open. we ran 2 new wires from 4 inches off the pcm harness to that alternator 4 inches of the alternator harness. retested both wires after repair to confirm the repair. Started the engine and battery light was off. After 2 minutes of running the battery light came on again. Tested voltage at both batteries with the engine running at idle and voltaage was 14.6. Yes previous code was cleared and has not immediately set any new ones. any ideas?
What would you suspect it to be if both red and yellow wires check good per the continuity check, and also the fusible links checks out good. Our issue is our 2015 is overcharging at 17 volts. When this occurs, it shuts all the dash lights off. What else could i check to solve this issue?
@PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod I got an 11 model It looked a bit different. I'd love to see some pictures or a video on an overlay even if it cost me a bit of $
I did the test that you showed on the video and on my truck the pin that is supposed to have constant power does not have power could you point me in the direction of where the fuse is my truck is a 2015 f350 6.7l
I didn’t have 12v at the plug so I went ahead and ran overlays from the battery and PCM to the plug. I had power and continuity but still the same issue. New alternator but still the same issue. I found that the fuse on the side of the passenger battery was broke. I had to cut the plastic cover off it to find it. I soldered it up and that was the issue. I’m ordering a new fuse but for now I’m up and running.
Have a 14' 6.7 in the shop now. 122k miles, 16 codes, plus it says it's overheating, when it hasn't run in days, the engine oil temp roams from -40°-+160°, whether it's running or not. Misfire on 2, 7 Reluctant codes Glow plug codes After replacing and programming (!!!) the injectors it wouldn't start for 2 days, then are very unplugging the computer and plugging it all back in, it starts... This particular truck is riddled with issues. The bill is over $5k already. It's like a bad game of dominoes. Looks like bad business, yet it's never had any care until now (limited at 50mph was the last straw) and some of these parts are just junk grin the beginning. Thanks for the heads up on the battery light. Even though it shows 13.8v, it's not happy.
@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod @PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Is there any way I can communicate with you? I have 2011 f350 6.7. I checked all the wires coming down from the pcm that you've checked on the videos, and where they most commonly break, but they seem alright, a bit mushy like bland. Checked with the test light, and I have power on the alternator connector, but I seem to have no resistance from pin 14 and 53 on C175B to the alternator plug. I'm gonna buy the proper lead for my multimeter to double check since I was using a makeshift lead with a copper wire attached to it to try to prong into the holes. I have only one code, P0620 Gencom circuit open or shorted
Yeah, if you go through the community posts on the channel, only channel members can see certain messages. And I have put a certain message for you all with seven digits to get a hold of us😁😁
I have a light that comes on first when you crank up truck then after you go down road it cuts off, once you get to where you going cut off then when you leave same thing? Replaced both batteries and been checked, I have 2 alternators 2014 F 250 6.7 any ideas?
Hey Arod could problems with this or a bad alternator cause the truck to shut off while driving, we have a 2011 ford 6.7 and it keeps dying randomly while driving, the codes it has are for glowplug 3 and 5, the truck runs good but when you get to highway speeds around 50-60 it'll start turning off, starts right back up, sometimes it'll do it repeatedly and sometimes it takes a while, we did notice the connector that goes to the alternator is wobbly on the alternator, the truck had a completely new harness put in because of broken wires before so I don't think a wire is broke but we can not keep it running without it dying randomly on the freeway
Hi. Im using passenger side alternator spot for electric clutch hydraulic pump and i have open circuit on alternator harness sensing plug. Do you know where i can get dead end loop? ➰ plug with loop. Thanks
I'm having the same issues only with the abs battery a/c pretty much all ecms the abs is concerning is there a recall from ford? its all over works doesn't work etc last issue on the truck
Fair to midland. I wish I could get you to work on that truck again. I think the engine bay wiring harness or that pcm need to be changed. You warned me about that PCM. It is firing multiple out of range cel for different sensors all at once. 😅Lol one of these days I will find someone dependable like you here in Texas. If you, and your family could handle the heat. Texas would love to have you!
I have a question, if the 3 alternator wires test good ( I load tested them with an incandescent test light ) and you still have voltage fluctuations, is it the internal voltage regulator in the alternator? My truck voltage fluctuates from 14.1-14.4 and occasionally jumps to 14.5-14.6. I don’t get a battery light on the dash, but my truck just started this, so I know something is off.
Ford boss me sent me over here. New alternator, 2 new battery’s, ran new wires along firewall, everything checked good, put inline fuse on 12 volt wire, did all this at one time (today) instrument cluster, radio, lights no longer shuts down, AC/heater fan doesn’t just kick on. All this started on the 11th, drove it to car wash business I own, on way back home it’s like it went haywire. The problem I have now is battery light won’t go out. When I start it about a minute later it comes on and stays on . What did I miss?
Take care of them and they will run foreva! And with you bringin viewers/customers into the shop, I sure hope the bossman’s takin care of ya somehow brotha!
Sure am, but nope not yet....😔😔
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod in due time, in due time. You’re makin them more money by bringing them in. They should do SOMETHING to show their appreciation whether it be free oil changes for life, or monetary comprehension be it a raise, or varying bonuses dependent on the amount of business you bring to the shop. Just my $.02 though lol I see you, at some point, opening your own shop similar to the TH-cam channel @FordTechMakuloco has.
Thanks buddy!!
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thank YOU brotha! Know a lot about vehicles, but extremely minimal about diesels. Until I found your channel couple years back. Learned a lot about diesels, more so about the venerable Ford SuperDuty 6.7 Scorpion PowerStroke. Between you and Powerstrokehelp.com, I’ve learned A LOT. Just being an owner and not a tech, you’ve saved me time/trouble/money, so I thank YOU! Now you’ve just gotta upload more than one video a week! Lol
Lmaoooo....buddy im doin 3 a week.....where u been 🤣
Professional diagnostics here, thanks for the details and doing things 100%! You’re a help to us all… even other “professionals” Keep teaching and spreading the info!
Much appreciation, my wire was broken EXACTLY where yours was!
In the past I've always found the break to be on the passenger side right where the wire enters that plastic tray/channel running parallel with the block. WHY Ford didn't sheath or loom that wiring is beyond excuse!
I love how you always walk us with you as you step by step break it down. 2011 f 250 with the 6.7 here. Keep up the great work!
I realized when working on my truck that it’s actually the top LEFT 4th pin over. On the video it showed the right pin. Still a killer video. Wouldn’t have figured out my problems without it. 💪🏼👍🏼
Actually if you rewatch the video he doesn't show you that he made a mistake. He put it in one spot and the video cuts and he removes it from a different spot
Hi A Rod. I want to thank you for this video! It fixed my battery issue . I replace all three wires. I pulled my hair out for two weeks chasing this crap.
I want to thank you a million times as your video helped me fix my 2014 f350 diesel. I watched a lot of your videos and what you do is amazing
Thanks budddd
Another Excellent diag! You are Number1 in my book. As soon as I saw the title I hear your voice in my head, "check the wire trough"!
👍🙌👍🙌👍🙌
Your video helped me 100%! Ford garage charged $880 to fix one wire. With your video I spend 1.5 hours troubleshooting and fixing a second wire 6 months later.
Thank you!
Fuckin aye 👊👊 we don't bull shit!
You're a credit to your profession. I just own one of these trucks and enjoy watching as many videos as I can. Love watching your videos. Very educational.
We have lots of playlists*
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Right on. Imma check them out.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!! I've been rolling around with a charging issue for several months now. I blindly replaced the battery and alternator trying to cut some corners. Obviously since I'm here, that didn't work. I found a corroded wire right where you said I would. Can't thank you enough for posting these
I appreciate your response if you found this video helpful show our channel some love with the donation of your choice🤟🤟💯💯🙋♂️🙋♂️🤝🤝
I found my issue at the exact same spot as you, I never would have found this. you are the man, thanks!
Now thats whats up
I run overlays on our fleet when this happens, there's a trough that runs in front of the turbo. It's a piece of cake and I never have any further problems with those circuits. I use wire loom to protect it and a couple zip ties to secure it. Popping off the air intake hose is necessary and you might find removing other hoses makes it easier too. Love your videos, just thought I'd give some details in case some folks wanted to take this route.
Thanks buddy for sharing!🙋♂️
When you have multiple problems with one wire it is probably time to replace that wire. Great informational video.
Yeah I’d just replace the entire wire from pigtail to ECM pigtail with a better heavier wire rather than multiple splices
Our problem was on the violet wire between the PCM and the passenger side of the engine block. Thank you for the comprehensive video!!
Pay attention to the second pin location on the PCM connector / not 4 from the bottom, 4 from the top. (5.22). Yellow wire, real high resistance, thanks for the video, well done!
Booooom fixed🤯🤯
Excellent explanation sir. Im currently digging into a F550, started off by overcharging, and now battery light is on. But I can make it go on and off by wiggling the plug. So I replaced the pigtail thinking the terminals are probably spread, nope. But wiggling the plug itself now sometimes causes the light and sometimes doesn’t. I suspect its the alternator itself with a bad connection inside, even thou it looks just ducky. Unfortunately the alternator is a HUGE pain to replace, because this truck has dual alternators and a underhood V-mac air compressor which essentially encases the alternator with its mounting bracket. 🤬
Great investigation. I always hated looking for a bad wire but it is so satisfying once you find it.
We’re just getting this problem with that model in the shop,, haven’t had a chance to fix one yet but am prepared now with you video! Thanks!
I have 3 out...make sure to watch them all
I'll be checking this on mine tomorrow as I have a battery light on. I have the OBD Link MX Bluetooth scan tool that shows my PIDS on my phone while driving. I see that the alternator is charging the system to the tune of about 14.1 volts, but funny thing is...it takes it a little while to get there. Initially after start up it is only charging at 12 volts or maybe just showing the current battery charge level. Ill continue to troubleshoot. This video helps tremendously. Thanks so much.
U bet
We just run an overlay on those from the alternator connector to Grey connector by battery and run it along the cowl, otherwise it will be back with the same problem just in a different location!! And now it’s the techs fault!
fantastic narration and explaining things ARod!!!
Battery light came on Friday ( 2016 F350 with a Lance camper on her )
Then it went off ...now back on.
After work I'll poke around and see if I can find the issue
I’ve got an intermittent charging system check warning… did you get to bottom of your problem?
Thank you so much, found the issue in five minutes, was about to replace the alternator and both batteries just to be safe
Ha. I wldnt waste ur coin
Used this video and information to fix our 2019 F550. The pin sequence was different but this video helped with the general idea. Thank you
A pro at his best, good job brother..
Your heaven sent thank you so much 👊🏻 southeast Idaho these idiots changed my transmission it was still slipping so they changed my alternator battery lights still on transmission still slipping not sure if their related but. Thanks again for your videos
Thanks buddd
Great detective work ARod. Lots of miles on that old gal.
I have a battery light on, my dash cluster cuts out (all lights and gages go dead) and will come back on? Notice my Insight monitor shows upwards of 17 volts when the dash cluster cuts out? (@ 14 volts when cluster is on and working?) Would issues with this wire cause these symptoms as well? Or do I need to look into something else?
Thanks in advance, great videos!
Yes
Also just goes to show with maintenance and care, thes trucks can and will last a long time.
I had a battery light on and it ended up being the same yellow wire in exactly the same spot. Thanks for the video!
💪💪💪
Experience diagnosis. Maestro. Eres el mejor maetro.
Such good info I’m a lead fleet mechanic and this helped me out a bunch on a 17 f450.
Thats what we're here for
You are a credit to to auto tech industry. Well done!
Well thank you mister Jay E - L - L - O
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I put you right up there with Eric O. of South Main Auto. If you have not seen his channel, you should check him out.
I have
Thanks I was about to buy alternator found my problem in the one going to the battery
Very good detective work. Can't believe the miles on her nice work ARod good video thanks
🎉 excellent job buddy waiting to detect the problem
I have a 2012 f250 currently having the issue on battery light and not charging. Thank you for the video now I know what to look for
We have a whole batt playlist
I got it fix I found the yellow wire broken on the passenger side between block and frame thank you
Good job!
I hope this is my issue. My alternator and test light both tested good. Just the 2 wires with the meter to check now.
Nice job showing how you did the troubleshooting
Would have been nice to see the parts used for the fix too
Excellent work
Just a piece of wire pal
That is awesome to see that many miles and the emissions are still intact it is possible kids
🙌💯💯
I found the video i need but mine is a 750, my truck has 2 alternators. Its a 2022 nasty salt truck. Arron should i just replace that harness?
good morning! i have the same issue with that yellow wire not reading anything on my meter...repaired wire and now have a reading but the check charging light is still on after repair. Anything else i should be looking for???
Fleeceperformance.com look at their repair kit. Call em and tell them we sent you!
As well, I just ran a new red wire from battery to connector with a fuse. Thanks a lot
Will the light affect the drive ability? My light came on and alternator was bad changed it and still have light on. It’s my daily driver can I drive it until I get time to trace it down
Yes
Hey, great video. I have a 2016 F350 that has the Battery light on. I followed this video and over overlaid the wire that goes directly from the alternator to the PCM connector(it was broken somewhere), Battery light is still on. Exactly where is the Fusible link you talk about for the second wire that is near the battery??
Do you have an other video that shows that in more detail? A picture of what the fusible link looks like? I assume removing the battery on that side is required??
Thx
Greg
Passenger side bout 1.5 ft from battery on outside of loom. Make sure to watch the battery playlist. There is like 4 other videos
Hello again, I am still having issues with my battery light on. I've a 2016 F350. I have re-watched your video a number of times. Followed the testing. I have previously overlaid the yellow wire to the PCM connector, it was broken somewhere). Yesterday, I followed the purple/violet wire, and traced Pin 14 at the PCM connector, the wire there is blue with a red/orange stripe... is this the right wire?
I spliced this with an overlaid purple wire, but my battery light was still on. So I re-connected the wire I had just cut. After I had done this someone asked me if I cleared the codes... I didn't.
No where in your video do you mention to clear codes.
1. Is the purple wire from the alternator the same wire as Pin 14, the blue/red stripe wire??
2. Is clearing codes a requirement?? (Disconnect the battery + cables for 15 minutes to clear)
Thx
Greg
Powerstroketechtalkwarod@gmail.com
My yellow wire broke in the exact same place on my '16. I had to do the repair on a dirt floor in my barn.
DALLAS TEXAS in the house.
🙌🙌🙌🙋♂️🙋♂️🤷♂️
Great video as always! I’ve seen the break at the bend on the pass side but never there. I wanted to see the other broken end of that wire lol. Good looking truck for the age/mileage, she’s a workin girl you can tell. Speaking of working girls, all my ex’s live in Texas.
Ok Drake 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Had to replace both my batteries this summer on my `16 450.
All three of my wires tested good. Could they test good and still be the problem or should I look somewhere else?
Did u load test them
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod no. Just followed the video. May be a dumb question but what’s the process to load test?
@thomaslong6403 watch thee other videos in the BATTERY playlist. U need to confirm those wires can carry a load. Sure 1 strand of copper will tell you their connected but will not carry any voltage
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod batteries are reading 12.1 v. Red wire 12.1. Yellow wire 1.8. Purple wire 11.8
Boooom there's your problem
Always great info! Thanks again!
Got it all fixed up now. Thx A Rod… 👍👍👍🇨🇦
Yea boi
Honest question here so I can test this properly. It looked like on step 2. After you tested a complete circuit it looks like you had the test wire plugged into a different pin than the one you originally described to test. Is that the case? Were you on the wrong side of the plug originally?
Sorry pal, that may,have been my mess up while filiming. Just match the wire colors for the two at the alt to the two at the ecu
This is the same thing I’m at right now. I thought I had an issue with that brown wire on pin 14 but when I check it on the pin where the lead is I have continuity.
Last time I had this issue it was just batteries. When I check on pin 53 I have continuity and step one with the red wire I have battery voltage.
This is a great video! My f550 service truck has a P0625 2F fault. It has dual alternators. Im not familiar with that system completely but i am going to start with these checks.
How much you want to bet you come back here and you tell me you found it!!!!!!
@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I will to let you know how you helped me! I disconnected the plug for the alternator on the driver side (the plug you showed) and the battery light went out. My system is charging. When I plugged it back in the light came back. I'll verify the circuit tomorrow.
@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Hey! Sorry it's been a bit but I've been super busy with work. I got a chance to check the wiring and found a schematic. Ohmed the wires and all were good. Load tested them to verify and all are good. Found out the passenger side alternator is F and the driver side is G. So I have a faulty F alternator. But I learned a valuable tip through you and I appreciate it so much. Thank you. I am now subscribed to you.
Excellent troubleshooting video. Thanks. However, my truck d 2008 f250 with 6.4. The pcm connector is different. Do you have that pin out diagram please?
Check out lisle tools new test light has a digital voltage display with led red for power green for ground has an incandescent bulb aswell with a switch push button style will load the circuit with a 1/3 Amp load and you can see the voltage drop aswell when loaded makes circuit testing and load testing much easier
Brother man! So I fixed my yellow, all good. Battery light a year later…red wire, went to fixing that..didn’t pull battery cables 😒, arched now I can’t get power out of the red and that of course caused an over voltage situation, which was not my original issue so I think I created my red issue. Can’t locate the fuse-able link. I needed the rig so I ran a wire off the battery 😬
Well lights back but it’s very spastic so usually but the time I get to checking the wires it’s showing good continuity again 🤬. So I think I’m going to run new wires from the PCM harness to the Alternator and be done with it. Then once I locate the fusable link get that right.
Thoughts and can you give any details on the location of that link? I have looked at diagrams and I’m baffled on why I can’t locate. My local ford dealer in CDA Idaho told me there wasn’t a fusable link and that it ran off the Master fuse….😅…I’ve sorted that as misinformation.
Thanks in advance boss man!!
Email us
Hell yeah AROD is the Man!
Hey bud! I have a 2016 f250 with this issue. Very similiar wireing howver it doesnt cross over the engine. Its basically all on passenger side. 6.2 engine. I found the alt overcharging at almost 16 volts. Then found the fusible link blowed. The other 2 wires both red good with meter. However i did not load test them. Would u recomment i load test them somehow or buy a new alt? Thanks!
Better load test em. Nvr had woring issues with them
So I added a wire into the pin locations on the connector at the firewall. And connected it to + battery. Then with my test light I connected to - and then probed the connector at the alt for both those wires and it lit good. I held it on there for a while. I did find however that the red power wire had a blown fusible link. (Before any of this testing) I jumped the link with a solid wire for testing and I still get a battery light and the dash will go crazy. Like the radio will shut off and fan stop working. Then all is good again. Any advice?
@tylershafer7929 whats the code in the PCM
There is none. And it only happens occasionally. It basically shuts off all power to everything inside cab. Engine runs fine tho the whole time. I've checked for loose connections up under dash by doing the wiggle test and nothing.
@tylershafer7929 if yhe battery light comes on, there would be a DTC stored in the PCM
Would that problem make stuff like my ac ,lights ect not work properly?
Yupppppp
I have a 2008 6.4 F-250 with the battery light on. Are the pinouts the same for testing purposes as in this video? I had my truck in a Ford shop for other reasons including replacing the alternator which they did twice but still couldn't get the light to turn off. But the alternator is now charging correctly. Before the voltage was too high.
No absolutely not, completely different
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Where can I find the correct pinouts?
Motorcraftservice.com
First of all, THANK YOU for posting these videos on these trucks! Second, I think my issue is from the fusible link to the generator connector. I tested the voltage coming from the link to the connector and only have 6.8 volts... I'm assuming it should be the same as the batteries which is in the 12.5 - 13 volt range? As I was trying to diagnose the issue (instrument cluster shutting off and coming back on randomly, radio on and off and HVAC system on and off...) I had my cheap scan tool watching the vehicle voltage while idling and when it happens, it spikes upwards of 17.5-18 volts and then goes back to normal for a while at around 14 ish volts. Do you think I'm on the right track? Again, thank you for the great and insightful content man! It is greatly appreciated!!!
Yepp, load test it. Should be able to carry a load. I have 3 other videos in the battery playlist. I show u each chafe spot too!!!
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Got it all put back together and it's fixed! (fingers crossed...) I wasn't able to find the break in the wire though... granted it was 38 degrees, raining and dark in my driveway here in Montana, so I just dead ended the factory wire and ran a new one in a loom. Soldered it in and so far so good! THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Don't let the red wire fool you. Don't just load test with a light. Check it with ohmmeter. If the wire shows any resistance at all, run a new wire alternator to battery. The battery tested 12.4 volts at the posts but at the alternator that red wire tested 11.8 volts... revealing there is resistance in the wire not allowing all the voltage to pass through it, basically now sending a message back to the alternator that it needs to generate more power. This more voltage output, as high as 16.4 on our truck, now sends a signal to the PCM that too much power is being generated and goes into a safe protection mode and shuts down electronics such as instrument cluster, dome light, radio etc. The heater will come on thru the defroster, because the blend door is now not working and goes to neutral mode. The FASS fuel pump would speed up, telling us more voltage was being generated than needed. We ran a new red wire from the alternator to the fuseable link and if fixed the problem. Evidently their is corrosion in the old red wire somewhere creating resistance, not allowing the full 12.4 volts to be reported to the alternator, causing it to kick up power. It was a 5 day project to figure this out. Hope this helps someone.
ORRR just run the red wire to the battery post on the alternator like it used to be.... You know, before they had to of course ruin a good thing! 😂
Your video was very helpful. Found my wires were at fault and so instead of playing with splices that I was not sure would hold that lone, I replaced all three wires with an overlay in a separate conduit. Tied in to the yellow and purple wire at the PCM connector and then to the alternator connector. Ran a new red wire from the passenger side battery to the alternator connector and put a 5a fuse inline. Batt light was out, took the vehicle out to see if the problem was gone, but then the batt light cycled back on and off on when driving the vehicle. Also, had the dash lights cycle on and off (not at the same time as the batt light) randomly. Vehicle ran alright and this was completely random. Thoughts?
That’s what mine is doing too after running new wires.
Great video! Found my bad spot in the yellow wire going into the plastic holder behind power steering pump.
Do you have any clup where you walkthrough the wire repair? I can see the corrosion (and have the fault) but the whole taped up loom is so tight I can't seem to get the wire out so I can repair it. I'm a bit hesitant to do damage to other wires by pulling on the entire loom and the space is super tight. Any big tips getting in there?
How about you email us
Thank you. Excellent video.
QUESTION: I’ve tested both battery and alternators (two) on my 17’ F350 Superduty and both are showing proper readings, however, I still have both battery light and message light on the dash. My question is, if one of those wires were severed will the alternator still charge and show a proper reading, but trigger the system to show trouble light?
Yes
Mine has dual alternators. I haven’t looked yet, but I’m assuming they share the same control wire to ecm!??
No, they do not...
Is this applicable to a 2018 f-550?
My issue is all my electrical power goes out. Clicks on and off, everything.
Ehhhh good be..
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod has dual alternators, took them both off had them tested. Came back good.battery’s, 6 months old clean terminals. Load tested good
Hmmm prolly not this
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod alright man thanks. I put extra grounds on and cleaned all the ones I could find
I'm having an intermitten issue with the battery light coming on on my 6.7 2011... When I test the yellow wire the resistance is reading 2.5-2.9 as opposed to the .2 that you were showing in the video... What does that mean for my scenario?
It has to read what i got. You have TOO much resistance
I have a 2019 ford F450 with a 6.7 power stroke. This engine has 2 alternators. I experienced a similar problem. batttery light was on intermittently with a code p0620 set. This is an everyday work truck. Basically the charging system defaulted to charing 13.4 volts. We have the truck in the garage now and ran that test of the wires from the pcm connector to both alternators. found the yellow wire to the drivers side alternator open. we ran 2 new wires from 4 inches off the pcm harness to that alternator 4 inches of the alternator harness. retested both wires after repair to confirm the repair. Started the engine and battery light was off. After 2 minutes of running the battery light came on again. Tested voltage at both batteries with the engine running at idle and voltaage was 14.6. Yes previous code was cleared and has not immediately set any new ones. any ideas?
My 2016 F250 6.7l has the same battery light issue. I noted that the light comes on after the engine has been running for about 30 seconds.
Ok
What would you suspect it to be if both red and yellow wires check good per the continuity check, and also the fusible links checks out good. Our issue is our 2015 is overcharging at 17 volts. When this occurs, it shuts all the dash lights off. What else could i check to solve this issue?
Sounds like u need to be watching our battery playlist my friend.....
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Thank you. I did not see your other video calling out the third chafe point visible through the wheel well. BINGO!
Boooooooooooom!!!
What if you already bypassed those 3 wires? I have a new alternator and 2 new batteries and it doesn't want to charge the batteries
Would dual alternators affect this method at all?
Is this the same pin layout for all year models ? Would love to have my battery light gone never had one till my local dealer put cab bushings in
Pretty similar
@PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod I got an 11 model It looked a bit different. I'd love to see some pictures or a video on an overlay even if it cost me a bit of $
Tested all 4 wires on alt. There good. had alt. Tested they said test good.
Yet battery not taking charge any ideas thanks
Better check again!!!! Its never an alternator, i can tell you that!!!!
Maybe I'm not testing the wire properly maybe I have it on the wrong setting on my meter. It show 0.0 but neither are open I guess
I did the test that you showed on the video and on my truck the pin that is supposed to have constant power does not have power could you point me in the direction of where the fuse is my truck is a 2015 f350 6.7l
U can book some consulting time
I didn’t have 12v at the plug so I went ahead and ran overlays from the battery and PCM to the plug. I had power and continuity but still the same issue. New alternator but still the same issue. I found that the fuse on the side of the passenger battery was broke. I had to cut the plastic cover off it to find it. I soldered it up and that was the issue. I’m ordering a new fuse but for now I’m up and running.
Thanks ARod, I found the red wire corroded right underneath the crank pulley.
Boom fixed
For the first 30 seconds I couldn't hear anything but Angels singing while I was staring at that black beauty in the background.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣💞💞💞💞💞🙌🙌🙌🙌
Have a 14' 6.7 in the shop now.
122k miles, 16 codes, plus it says it's overheating, when it hasn't run in days, the engine oil temp roams from -40°-+160°, whether it's running or not.
Misfire on 2, 7
Reluctant codes
Glow plug codes
After replacing and programming (!!!) the injectors it wouldn't start for 2 days, then are very unplugging the computer and plugging it all back in, it starts...
This particular truck is riddled with issues.
The bill is over $5k already. It's like a bad game of dominoes. Looks like bad business, yet it's never had any care until now (limited at 50mph was the last straw) and some of these parts are just junk grin the beginning.
Thanks for the heads up on the battery light. Even though it shows 13.8v, it's not happy.
Do you have an alternator replacement video?
Nope, never replace them. It's always the wiring
What's the playlist name for all 6.7 with battery light problems?
Battery light playlist 🤣🤣🤣
@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod my bad I hadn't scrolled down that far 🤣
@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod
@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Is there any way I can communicate with you? I have 2011 f350 6.7. I checked all the wires coming down from the pcm that you've checked on the videos, and where they most commonly break, but they seem alright, a bit mushy like bland. Checked with the test light, and I have power on the alternator connector, but I seem to have no resistance from pin 14 and 53 on C175B to the alternator plug. I'm gonna buy the proper lead for my multimeter to double check since I was using a makeshift lead with a copper wire attached to it to try to prong into the holes.
I have only one code, P0620 Gencom circuit open or shorted
Yeah, if you go through the community posts on the channel, only channel members can see certain messages. And I have put a certain message for you all with seven digits to get a hold of us😁😁
Have you ever seen the plug itself on the tcm be the problem?
Not 1
I have a light that comes on first when you crank up truck then after you go down road it cuts off, once you get to where you going cut off then when you leave same thing? Replaced both batteries and been checked, I have 2 alternators 2014 F 250 6.7 any ideas?
Glad your channel is doing well. You deserve it. Now what’s this about you jumping your truck like Street Speed 717 did with his TRX??😈
😭😭😭😭😭😭
Is this the same procedure for a dual alternator setup?
No. U wld have 2ndary generstor codes if you had a problem
Hey Arod could problems with this or a bad alternator cause the truck to shut off while driving, we have a 2011 ford 6.7 and it keeps dying randomly while driving, the codes it has are for glowplug 3 and 5, the truck runs good but when you get to highway speeds around 50-60 it'll start turning off, starts right back up, sometimes it'll do it repeatedly and sometimes it takes a while, we did notice the connector that goes to the alternator is wobbly on the alternator, the truck had a completely new harness put in because of broken wires before so I don't think a wire is broke but we can not keep it running without it dying randomly on the freeway
No sir, it wld not
Hi. Im using passenger side alternator spot for electric clutch hydraulic pump and i have open circuit on alternator harness sensing plug. Do you know where i can get dead end loop? ➰ plug with loop. Thanks
What
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod never mind
I'm having the same issues only with the abs battery a/c pretty much all ecms the abs is concerning is there a recall from ford? its all over works doesn't work etc last issue on the truck
...recall, hahahahah no
How involved is replacing the harness with a new ford one? If they make it or is that part of the whole engine harness
Parta the whole harnesss
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod figures why make it easy lol
Story of my life
Excellent video AROD!
Ayyyyye buddy, hope you and them family are doing well
Fair to midland. I wish I could get you to work on that truck again. I think the engine bay wiring harness or that pcm need to be changed. You warned me about that PCM. It is firing multiple out of range cel for different sensors all at once. 😅Lol one of these days I will find someone dependable like you here in Texas. If you, and your family could handle the heat. Texas would love to have you!
@jamesdixon4601 🤔🤔🤔 this is all I hear 🫂🤣🤣
You are one of a kind. Thank you for being you.
Hi Arod, is the wire harness for glow plug 8 included in that bundle?
No sir, thats in the main loom...12B581...but can get just the pigtail too
I have a question, if the 3 alternator wires test good ( I load tested them with an incandescent test light ) and you still have voltage fluctuations, is it the internal voltage regulator in the alternator? My truck voltage fluctuates from 14.1-14.4 and occasionally jumps to 14.5-14.6. I don’t get a battery light on the dash, but my truck just started this, so I know something is off.
Sounds normal to me....
If the 3 wires test good, and I continue to have no charge where would you go next? Replace alternator?
U better re do it. Its never an alt....
I want to add to this, mine wasn’t the alternator, it was actually the body control module going bad.
That has nothing to do with the charging system tho
How do you load test yellow and purple wire
Power probe and a tail lamp bulb
I've been trying to get the connector off the back of the generator. What's the trick in getting it off ?
90⁰ pick...its a pain i feel ya...youll get it. Right in the middle of the connector
Struggling with this right now too. Middle to or bottom of connector? Maybe some visuals.
Did you ever get it off?
Middle
Ford boss me sent me over here. New alternator, 2 new battery’s, ran new wires along firewall, everything checked good, put inline fuse on 12 volt wire, did all this at one time (today) instrument cluster, radio, lights no longer shuts down, AC/heater fan doesn’t just kick on. All this started on the 11th, drove it to car wash business I own, on way back home it’s like it went haywire. The problem I have now is battery light won’t go out. When I start it about a minute later it comes on and stays on . What did I miss?
2012 6.7 power stroke
Welcome. Codes?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod no codes
I put it on scanner and it showed none.
There has to be codes if you have a battery light on. P06xx