I replaced the alternator and still had the battery light come back on… I googled and found this video and it was the exact problem and exact pin. Thank you so much. Thanks so much for also doing an excellent job in describing which pin you were testing as well. This video saved me
Your video helped me understand my problem. Had continuity on both pin 14 & 53, nothing grounded or crossed. I Used a tone and probe to follow the correct group of wires, although I had a rough time seeing the complete pathway I managed to find the floating ground and replaced the ALT plug with additional wire length. When I turned right, (at first),the truck would lean to the left! The front differential cover moved up into the wire harness, grounding the blue orange conductor! I replaced all three wires, soldered, heat shrink, wire loom & taped ! "'NO MORE BATTERY ISSUES'" !!! Thanks Dan !
Great video man! Because of your video I fix my truck. The pi 14 was open to alternator. I ran an overlay and now it's fixed. Again, I really appreciate it!
Replacing the wire instead of trying to fix that original wire is the way to go. Saves time, money and does the same thing the original . If I was the customer I would be perfectly fine with that repair.
Great work! I'm sure they were happy with the job rather than a new harness and long process of running all the new wiring harness from point a to point b. I wish we had mechanics like you around here!
Good job..! Also, if you disconnect the connector at the alternator and jump gen com with gen mon, and look at scanner pids, both of those should mirror each other intermittent. This confirms wiring integrity. However in your case, you would probably see two different values on each line, because you had an open circuit.
I did a ohms check on the yellow and in my situation it is a blue with red stripped wire. They both ran with like 2 ohms of resistance. Does that sound right. My buddy said it is a straight wire and the ohms should read zero. I was getting the battle voltage at the red wire so I figure it was good. I am gonna change the two wires to the alternator to what 14 and 51. I was not going to cut the wires but set the new wired in parallel, or do you think that is a bad idea if the factory wire is shorting out.
Would this keep your starter engaged to your flywheel . I plugin the alternator wire and starter stays engaged take it off and it disengages. Everything new 99 f 250
Nice job, use to do automotive electronics, just test drive a 2014 150, no lights or codes, was under 15v but my $100 Innova said it maybe overcharging, battery check was fine. Pos term is fairly dirty from sitting, thinking that maybe causing some resistance. Coyote runs like a bat outa hell, going through it with inspector tomorrow
I'm having pretty much the same issue on my 14 Ford Focus ST. Thanks for the info. Going to get the wire diagrams and pin outs so I can test. Thanks again
Would a P0622 Generator Field Terminal Circuit Failure be similar to the issue on the truck in the vid? My 06f150 5.4 battery never goes off since i replaced my alternator a few months ago with one from Oreillys. It is putting out 14.23 volts while running
Same problem but on 2003 Mitsubishi montero sport my battery and brake light came on I’ve driven over 100 miles and still running fine I took to auto parts store and battery and alternator charging system tested ok. Runs fine now but light on any suggestions thanks
I got a question did u cut the old wire off and add in this wire so it doesn't randomly start working again and short something out if possible? Just curious
Where does the red wire go? I have red wire problem. I’m stripping back harness right now. I already tested yellow and purple all good. I have continuity on red to 1ft away to battery. But so far there’s a thicker wire not sure if spliced to heavier gauge.
Have this problem on a 2018 F250. I tested the wires with a meter as well as with a 32watt bulb. All rings out good. Bulb lights up full brightness. But battery light is still on. Getting anywhere between 12.5-13.9V. No CEL. What could it be?
Hello. Ik it's been a while. But where were the pins shorting? I'm having issues but mine test good also. Do I take the connector apart going into the pcm?
These is happening to me now but after the 2 day my battery died but when I run the head lights shows juice but I try to crank it lights blink out so do you think it’s battery or same problem?
Grand marquis2001 non pcm charging inly 13v i replaced battery and alternator still like same it should be at 14,3 I have checked every thing i am so confused☹🙇♂️
You know what OL stands for. Outta luck! I’m about to do this to my Taurus wagon. Iv changed everything and feel dumb for not testing the harness like I knew I should. Same with cam and crank and maf sensors. Check the harness first!
hey brother plz reply back , i am having ford fiesta diesel , whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i revv the car till 4k rpm it disappears , and wont come back till i turn off the car , what is the issue
I'm glad I didn't replace it when it was showing issues, or I'd been in a lot better continuity state then I am now, but as long as my car is happy with unnecessary contacts when all I needed was faith and trust in the electric producer that went the full race with the original one 1.... ! TGIF. WISH ID HAVE THOUGHT THAT WAY!
Put a GR821 regulator on a 98 F150 4.6 and the battery light came on. They say this is not the proper regulator for some of these alternators because they came out with the smart charging system right about that time. It works fine but the battery light stays on.
One question inhave this problem but my truck stays in 0 to 1 rpm and once it gets low battery light comes on back up it goes off and so on any suggestions just changed battery
It's not much different than a "bodge wire" repair on a circuit board. If a trace or contact pad is damaged on a board, you just bridge the opening in the circuit with a very fine piece of wire. The dealer saying "Needs new harness" isn't much different than Apple telling you "needs new logic board".
Well I’m searching TH-cam have a issue with my 2001 f350 7.3 I have no engine light at all coming on turn key check the red and green wire on alternator that’s supposed to power to 12 volts with key on I’m getting very little volts around 4 from what I’ve found it controls the regulator in alternator to start charge is there a way to run a new wire as you did here thanks hope someone can help
Looked like Alldata. Pretty sure you have to subscribe tho. But u might be able to buy a short subscription if you only need it here and there for your odd repair job.
97 F150 had new wires/ plugs and intake gasket yesterday as misfired after new plugs kept occurring. Battery light was on soon as I started truck. Battery was old and had died on dealer weeks ago when read my code and diagnosed. I'd had it tested as fine before drained but wanted Battery months ago. So today I got the new battery but Battery light still on could not be found why by dealer today. I don't know how much time they actually looked for why but I was there all day and sent on my way not fixed. There was history of shorts but fixed. I couldn't get why bulb on while work done would make Battery read bad. So I thought good grief another alternator if they went with that. But they did say it's fine and couldn't understand yet. No date to bring truck back in. I thought look for typical known reasons from online but wiring does tend to be a dry rot issue a d now for sometime both covers for fuses and that pcm have covers missing after was worked on somewhere. Frustrating. I never was a mechanic but we didn't have wiring nor alt on my last race car so I'm leary of digging in on problems by myself and tools are now gone anyway. So I can follow along or search a problem and know these trucks are old now.
I'm having the same issue with my 2003. I wonder if this could be my issue also. I will have to check this out tomorrow. My light will normally stays on but it will go out from time to time. I haven't changed anything out but I have been keep a check on my alternator and it is charging over 14 volts. Well thanks for sharing this now I hope this will fix mine as well.
Thats not a beefy wire - 20 gauge. ...easy to rot out in water if harness gets wet and doesnt drain off. Also try sending tone to fault may reveal other problems soon to follow
My truck ended up dying on the freeway lost power to the windows, lights in the dash, lights all around but it was still running up until I turned it off now it won’t start again 😢
Trying to replace that harness would cause more damage than you would think. Much better to run new single wire. There is a right way to run a new wire and if done correctly will last longer than the vehicle. NO WIRE NUTS! Lol
Fixitrealfast guy had this gizmo gadget that let you follow a wire along it's path to eventually find the bad spot. This tool sniffs the amps put thru the wire.
I replaced the alternator and still had the battery light come back on… I googled and found this video and it was the exact problem and exact pin. Thank you so much. Thanks so much for also doing an excellent job in describing which pin you were testing as well. This video saved me
Your video helped me understand my problem. Had continuity on both pin 14 & 53, nothing grounded or crossed. I Used a tone and probe to follow the correct group of wires, although I had a rough time seeing the complete pathway I managed to find the floating ground and replaced the ALT plug with additional wire length. When I turned right, (at first),the truck would lean to the left! The front differential cover moved up into the wire harness, grounding the blue orange conductor! I replaced all three wires, soldered, heat shrink, wire loom & taped ! "'NO MORE BATTERY ISSUES'" !!! Thanks Dan !
Great video man! Because of your video I fix my truck. The pi 14 was open to alternator. I ran an overlay and now it's fixed.
Again, I really appreciate it!
Was your truck high idling when this wire was comprised?
@@michaelkaylor4779 no, the battery light was just on and no charge.
Replacing the wire instead of trying to fix that original wire is the way to go. Saves time, money and does the same thing the original . If I was the customer I would be perfectly fine with that repair.
No one asked how ud feel n no one gaf
Great work! I'm sure they were happy with the job rather than a new harness and long process of running all the new wiring harness from point a to point b. I wish we had mechanics like you around here!
Good job..! Also, if you disconnect the connector at the alternator and jump gen com with gen mon, and look at scanner pids, both of those should mirror each other intermittent. This confirms wiring integrity. However in your case, you would probably see two different values on each line, because you had an open circuit.
Great video I’m having the same problem with 2000 F350 I’d like to know where you found your wiring diagram
All three were of my wires tested good. Could they be testing good and still cause the problem or should I look somewhere else?
I did a ohms check on the yellow and in my situation it is a blue with red stripped wire. They both ran with like 2 ohms of resistance. Does that sound right. My buddy said it is a straight wire and the ohms should read zero. I was getting the battle voltage at the red wire so I figure it was good. I am gonna change the two wires to the alternator to what 14 and 51. I was not going to cut the wires but set the new wired in parallel, or do you think that is a bad idea if the factory wire is shorting out.
Very common on many different machines, sometimes its the micro
Would this keep your starter engaged to your flywheel . I plugin the alternator wire and starter stays engaged take it off and it disengages. Everything new 99 f 250
Nice job, use to do automotive electronics, just test drive a 2014 150, no lights or codes, was under 15v but my $100 Innova said it maybe overcharging, battery check was fine. Pos term is fairly dirty from sitting, thinking that maybe causing some resistance. Coyote runs like a bat outa hell, going through it with inspector tomorrow
I'm having pretty much the same issue on my 14 Ford Focus ST. Thanks for the info. Going to get the wire diagrams and pin outs so I can test. Thanks again
Have a po65B code on my 14 focus st. What was the resolution for you?
Same with my focus 16 but they're just gonna get my money because I have no idea what's going on. Haha
Would a P0622 Generator Field Terminal Circuit Failure be similar to the issue on the truck in the vid? My 06f150 5.4 battery never goes off since i replaced my alternator a few months ago with one from Oreillys. It is putting out 14.23 volts while running
Nice video man, do you now where i can get the wire diagram for a ford transit custom 2.2tdci (2014) ? Have exactly same problem
Are you using Alldata. Absolutely Excellent video.
Great video. what is the symptom of a broken wire? not charging?
High idle
Same problem but on 2003 Mitsubishi montero sport my battery and brake light came on I’ve driven over 100 miles and still running fine I took to auto parts store and battery and alternator charging system tested ok. Runs fine now but light on any suggestions thanks
I got a question did u cut the old wire off and add in this wire so it doesn't randomly start working again and short something out if possible? Just curious
I would imagine he would have had to in order to connect the new one.
Awesome, I've been chasing this ghost on myt pick for quite a while now. I will check out the yellow wire on mine now.
Topside creeper! I must have one! Worthy of subscription just on that. Great vid, I have same issue
Sanitary fix. It’s a pleasure to see a “happy ending” to an otherwise annoying problem.
Yeah I was wondering how long the Ford alternate lasted
Where does the red wire go? I have red wire problem. I’m stripping back harness right now. I already tested yellow and purple all good. I have continuity on red to 1ft away to battery. But so far there’s a thicker wire not sure if spliced to heavier gauge.
To the battery ya fkn moron it's clear afk in the start of video
the wire's that you spliced into the pcm harness, are they the same colour as the wire's coming from the alternator?
Is it for all Fords. My 2019 ranger has the battery light on
Have this problem on a 2018 F250. I tested the wires with a meter as well as with a 32watt bulb. All rings out good. Bulb lights up full brightness. But battery light is still on. Getting anywhere between 12.5-13.9V. No CEL. What could it be?
Fixed. Wires from pin 3 and 2 were shorted to each other, but ring out good from end to end.
Hello. Ik it's been a while. But where were the pins shorting? I'm having issues but mine test good also. Do I take the connector apart going into the pcm?
When I am in pin # 14 I have continuity on both the yellow and purple wire from that same pin. Is that normal?
I realize this is a old video but we're do I find these diagram? That's a slick setup
These is happening to me now but after the 2 day my battery died but when I run the head lights shows juice but I try to crank it lights blink out so do you think it’s battery or same problem?
Grand marquis2001 non pcm charging inly 13v i replaced battery and alternator still like same it should be at 14,3 I have checked every thing i am so confused☹🙇♂️
Very good diagnosis! I have that same Atlas Kwik Bay lift
I have a 2018 f350 diesel with 2 alternators which alternator is it or should I check both
good to know patch up trick when repairing difficult wiring harnesses
You know what OL stands for. Outta luck! I’m about to do this to my Taurus wagon. Iv changed everything and feel dumb for not testing the harness like I knew I should. Same with cam and crank and maf sensors. Check the harness first!
hey brother plz reply back , i am having ford fiesta diesel , whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i revv the car till 4k rpm it disappears , and wont come back till i turn off the car , what is the issue
I'm glad I didn't replace it when it was showing issues, or I'd been in a lot better continuity state then I am now, but as long as my car is happy with unnecessary contacts when all I needed was faith and trust in the electric producer that went the full race with the original one 1.... ! TGIF. WISH ID HAVE THOUGHT THAT WAY!
Put a GR821 regulator on a 98 F150 4.6 and the battery light came on.
They say this is not the proper regulator for some of these alternators because they came out with the smart charging system right about that time.
It works fine but the battery light stays on.
Time 8.07 what is that symbol that did not go out? it stayed on.
Is there same wiring diagram in ford explorer 2010 as in Ford truck ?
Would this apply in a CVPI?
Is the pin out from alternator to pcm the same on 2008 f250 6.4 Deisel?
One question inhave this problem but my truck stays in 0 to 1 rpm and once it gets low battery light comes on back up it goes off and so on any suggestions just changed battery
I'm in the Houston Texas area. Is there any one down here Reputable to take my Truck for my Battery light?
It's not much different than a "bodge wire" repair on a circuit board. If a trace or contact pad is damaged on a board, you just bridge the opening in the circuit with a very fine piece of wire. The dealer saying "Needs new harness" isn't much different than Apple telling you "needs new logic board".
what's the source for your diagams?
LOL that is just way way too much work good luck thanks for the video
Had a similar issue on a Fed Ex truck, but it was the ECM that was bad. Unplugged the wire harness and oil leaked out of it.
Where was the oil coming from? Plastic from the ECM getting to hot?
Well I’m searching TH-cam have a issue with my 2001 f350 7.3 I have no engine light at all coming on turn key check the red and green wire on alternator that’s supposed to power to 12 volts with key on I’m getting very little volts around 4 from what I’ve found it controls the regulator in alternator to start charge is there a way to run a new wire as you did here thanks hope someone can help
What website did you use to find the wiring for the pcm.
Looked like Alldata. Pretty sure you have to subscribe tho. But u might be able to buy a short subscription if you only need it here and there for your odd repair job.
Did you change the battery
Hola buenas tardes amigos tengo una problema y es que la luz de la batería queda encendida y mi alternador está mandando ya no sé qué hacer
LOL that is just way way too much work that sounds confusing as hell LOL thanks for the video good luck
Nice... I would have loomed it to make it blend in like factory and better protection against heat and chafing.
97 F150 had new wires/ plugs and intake gasket yesterday as misfired after new plugs kept occurring. Battery light was on soon as I started truck. Battery was old and had died on dealer weeks ago when read my code and diagnosed. I'd had it tested as fine before drained but wanted Battery months ago. So today I got the new battery but Battery light still on could not be found why by dealer today. I don't know how much time they actually looked for why but I was there all day and sent on my way not fixed. There was history of shorts but fixed. I couldn't get why bulb on while work done would make Battery read bad. So I thought good grief another alternator if they went with that. But they did say it's fine and couldn't understand yet. No date to bring truck back in. I thought look for typical known reasons from online but wiring does tend to be a dry rot issue a d now for sometime both covers for fuses and that pcm have covers missing after was worked on somewhere. Frustrating. I never was a mechanic but we didn't have wiring nor alt on my last race car so I'm leary of digging in on problems by myself and tools are now gone anyway. So I can follow along or search a problem and know these trucks are old now.
Yes and thanks 1st thing I noticed that top creeper nice....and I am buying one too
Hey Dan do you still have the F-150?
Dan never answers !
I'm having the same issue with my 2003. I wonder if this could be my issue also. I will have to check this out tomorrow. My light will normally stays on but it will go out from time to time. I haven't changed anything out but I have been keep a check on my alternator and it is charging over 14 volts. Well thanks for sharing this now I hope this will fix mine as well.
do you know how to fix battery light
You are a awesome mechanic
Where does the red wire go from the alternator?
Battery positive
Thats not a beefy wire - 20 gauge. ...easy to rot out in water if harness gets wet and doesnt drain off. Also try sending tone to fault may reveal other problems soon to follow
Interesting thanks. My check charging system on my 04 Eddie Bauer expedition is driving me crazy.
I have the same issue
Thanks for the video sir , it absolutely works for me, thanks again, fix my problem
Mine was a loose plug on alternator. My fault. Bad connection
Where are you located
Whr are u located?
My truck ended up dying on the freeway lost power to the windows, lights in the dash, lights all around but it was still running up until I turned it off now it won’t start again 😢
Did you ever figure out the fix for this?
Same problem ford Raptor 2014
very nice honest job
Great fix!
Excelent information
That engine compartment looks like a nightmare to work on. Better be careful wearing a ring around machinery.
Great video
thank you
👍
I have same proplem on grand marquis 2001
I have had that connector break inside the connector. Replace the connector.
How is life with that big ass motorhome?
Nice truck to
That’s not a fix, some kind of patch . Adding “new” wire
Nope that's a fix and not a patch.
Trying to replace that harness would cause more damage than you would think. Much better to run new single wire. There is a right way to run a new wire and if done correctly will last longer than the vehicle. NO WIRE NUTS! Lol
Interesting.
Fixitrealfast guy had this gizmo gadget that let you follow a wire along it's path to eventually find the bad spot. This tool sniffs the amps put thru the wire.
thank you
Great video,