Thank you for this video. My linear compressor has gone out, just beyond the 10 year parts warranty (it lasted 10 years, 8 months!). Can you estimate what it would cost in labor and parts to retrofit it with the new LG-approved compressor? Thank you!!
I charge around $600 for the labor. The compressor is about $350. Don’t quote me on it but I had a customer call LG and say that they were going to be charged $450 by an LG employee to do any type of repair was a total cost.
my moms new lg fridge has problem making ice. ice holder is hella smaller compared to our old samsung. we have to set freezer to -6F for ice to really be made at a usable level. i hear that puts stress on the freezer. the temps in fridge an freezer seem to be working though no probs there but like i said we have to crank down(up?) the freezer temp for ice. its a quiet fridge though. yesterday i vacuumed out the back vents since thats where the air intake is not in the front bottom like our old fridge. our fridge model is LSXS26366S /11.
You mentioned it was new. It should have a one year warranty on the parts and labor. You can get a thermostat if you’d like to put it in the freezer compartment to make sure that it gets under 12°F to make ice. If it only constantly makes ice at -6°F somethings wrong. The icemaker and freezer compartment have a Thermistor/Sensor to tell the main control board how cold it is. If they are not working properly the temperatures won’t be right. Hope that helps.
Very good 👍 help i have lexs30766s/02 Lg refrigerator cantrol bord no light no anything voice i well doing 2 stap then front 22 22 came Sir let me know what Wong
What happen when you did step 1 88,88..The compressor, condenser fan motor, evaporator fans should turn on. Do they? If nothing works in the refrigerator lights inside do not light up. Check voltage going to Refrigerator. If you have 120 volts It sounds like a main control board issue . @@daimeshpatel9965
Thanks for the video. I have a LG Refer # LMXC23746S/01 Date: April 2018. Linear Compressor (pink label) FLB075LBNA. I have checked everything as mentioned on this and other videos. I tested CAP at 19.89 micro-F; #3-way valve is bumping at startup; start relay has continuity; all fans work in Test Mode#1. No blinking led from Printed Circuit Board (PCB). Coil was not dirty. Compressor runs quietly without being hot. Checked voltage CON201 [COM to POWER] under normal plug-in at 123.5 volts AC. Unplugged, disconnected CON201, re-plugged/power, measured voltage ramping on [COM to Power] on PCB at CON201 during Test Mode #1. Ramps up to around 120 Volts and then drops off after about a minute. In this time, the Error LED flashes 3-times (red); this is likely due to disconnected CON201 male plug. Unplug unit, reconnect CON201 Male and power up unit with no error LED, same Compressor mode with no cooling. No heat or cold on compressor tubes. My questions are 1) Should I get some cooling at or near 120 volts to [COM to POWER] leads to compressor at PCB posts? Does my troubleshooting point to a bad PCB and Compressor Failure? Should I fix or buy new?
As described in the video if all the loads can turn on and are running. And the refrigerator is not cooling at all. It would be the compressor. Don’t know if the control board is faulty.
The steel refrigerant lines running to the evaporators is defective and can corrode under the sprayed on insulation beneath the metal back plate. The only way to fix it is to peel the back plate over the lines with an angle grinder, chip out the insulation, then replace or seal the corroded steel lines with JB Weld. Then spray in more insulation, let it dry, stick the metal back on and tape over it. Muffler tape looks ugly but I can't see it. I used an infra red camera to find the lines and didn't cut much metal, but a laser thermometer could work too. You can get the refrigerant at Harbor Freight.
Thanks for the video. My LG stopped cooling (both fridge and freezer compartments). The control board test was fine. I suspected the compressor or a refrigerant leak, but there was a vibration coming from inside the compressor when it was on. Can the compressor be defective if it is still vibrating? Tech said it was a bad compressor. He replaced it and all is good. But I was just curious how to tell if the compressor is bad if it's not completely dead. Thanks!
My LG is not cooling to the set temps. Fridge or freezer. I ran the test and both fans came on full blast. But, out of test mode, nothing again. Thoughts?
If the fans are working in test mode it means that they work. If compressor works in test mode as well and the refrigerator is not cooling it means it is a sealed system issue. As stated in video.
i had a technican come ocer yesterday for my lg fridge he found it was the little flap on the inner left door that was shorting thr power, so he unplugged it power it up , the fridge didnt short out it was on for 12hr no issue,but when i placed it in my kitchenit shorted out the power again i try the another outlet same thing. so i took the extension cord that it was plugged in for over 12hr and used it on the outlet in the kitchen it didnt short out. i removed the extension cord that had a ground plug it shorten the power again, so i left the extension cord over night and its still going good. so i phone the techniain and explained it to him he was amazed ,,what he said on another circuit in the house and unplug everything on that and circuit and just have the fridge plugged in without the extension cord as he does some reason il come back after i do all that
I'm guessing your compressor was going out and about to short out and the other circuit you plugged into had a higher rating. Did it go out shortly after?
i also have an LG door in door unit with the exact same issue. i had a tech replace the linear compressor with the updated one and he also did a software update. no difference, in fact the fridge runs a little warmer now. 50 F in the freezer side. what do you suggest? i believe he flushed out the system but i'm not 100% certain.
i’m sorry to hear that. All someone can do is go after the three essentials that make a sealed system issue. 1bad compressor, 2 partial restriction, and 3 refrigerant leak. Unfortunately some LG refrigerators are not repaired because of the excessive labor needed and parts. Another component that could be the culprit is a freezer Thermistor. But not likely if you have two evaporators and both compartments are not cooling. And the lg thermistors hardly ever go.
The compressor was replaced a couple of years ago because it went bad. The thermistor was replaced recently because the compressor was running hot. What would be a reason for not cooling when the compressor is not hot to the touch - just warm? The evaporator fan works and the refrigerator only has one. It can’t be the compressor, again.
If it’s under five years and you have the receipt, LG will pay for the labor and the compressor. If it’s over five years and within 10 years, you just have to pay for the labor which can be 400 to 600.
My compressor and control board went at same time.. why? I have it 5 yrs am living in the Caribbean and I brought it at PC Richard's.. brand LG 30 cubic.. I just buy both of the parts in my country..
If the compressor is running and is hot to the touch and not cooling the main or freezer compartment has the compressor gone bad. All the diagnostic tests run clean.
Yes, if all the loads are working, the compressor is working constantly and the fans in both compartments are working. It would be a sealed system issue, which is a faulty compressor, partial restriction, or a leak. If you only have one evaporator in your refrigerator in the freezer compartment, then there’s a small chance that it could be a Thermistor/Sensor. If your refrigerator has two evaporator’s and both compartments are warm, like you said, it’s not likely that both thermistors/sensors are faulty at the same time.
Unfortunately, I didn’t make a video yet. You need a VoltOhm meter and the service manual to your specific model. In the service manual, you will go to the reference section where there is a temperature chart for the sensors. In the service manual you also be looking for the electrical diagram freezer sensor and refrigerator sensor. Once you know what two wires to probe, you’ll disconnect the refrigerator and ohm out those two sensor wires. You find out the temperature of the compartment and ohm out the sensor. If the temperature coincides with your ohm reading on the temperature chart, then the sensor is good.
Thank you for this video. My linear compressor has gone out, just beyond the 10 year parts warranty (it lasted 10 years, 8 months!). Can you estimate what it would cost in labor and parts to retrofit it with the new LG-approved compressor? Thank you!!
I charge around $600 for the labor. The compressor is about $350. Don’t quote me on it but I had a customer call LG and say that they were going to be charged $450 by an LG employee to do any type of repair was a total cost.
Thanks for the knowledge and help
Glad I could help.
my moms new lg fridge has problem making ice. ice holder is hella smaller compared to our old samsung. we have to set freezer to -6F for ice to really be made at a usable level. i hear that puts stress on the freezer. the temps in fridge an freezer seem to be working though no probs there but like i said we have to crank down(up?) the freezer temp for ice. its a quiet fridge though. yesterday i vacuumed out the back vents since thats where the air intake is not in the front bottom like our old fridge. our fridge model is LSXS26366S /11.
You mentioned it was new. It should have a one year warranty on the parts and labor. You can get a thermostat if you’d like to put it in the freezer compartment to make sure that it gets under 12°F to make ice. If it only constantly makes ice at -6°F somethings wrong. The icemaker and freezer compartment have a Thermistor/Sensor to tell the main control board how cold it is. If they are not working properly the temperatures won’t be right. Hope that helps.
@@appliance63 older than a year. 2 years at least.
Very good 👍 help i have lexs30766s/02
Lg refrigerator cantrol bord no light no anything voice i well doing 2 stap then front 22 22 came
Sir let me know what Wong
@@daimeshpatel9965
What happen when you did step 1 88,88..The compressor, condenser fan motor, evaporator fans should turn on. Do they? If nothing works in the refrigerator lights inside do not light up. Check voltage going to Refrigerator. If you have 120 volts It sounds like a main control board issue . @@daimeshpatel9965
Thanks for the video. I have a LG Refer # LMXC23746S/01 Date: April 2018. Linear Compressor (pink label) FLB075LBNA. I have checked everything as mentioned on this and other videos. I tested CAP at 19.89 micro-F; #3-way valve is bumping at startup; start relay has continuity; all fans work in Test Mode#1. No blinking led from Printed Circuit Board (PCB). Coil was not dirty. Compressor runs quietly without being hot. Checked voltage CON201 [COM to POWER] under normal plug-in at 123.5 volts AC. Unplugged, disconnected CON201, re-plugged/power, measured voltage ramping on [COM to Power] on PCB at CON201 during Test Mode #1. Ramps up to around 120 Volts and then drops off after about a minute. In this time, the Error LED flashes 3-times (red); this is likely due to disconnected CON201 male plug. Unplug unit, reconnect CON201 Male and power up unit with no error LED, same Compressor mode with no cooling. No heat or cold on compressor tubes. My questions are 1) Should I get some cooling at or near 120 volts to [COM to POWER] leads to compressor at PCB posts? Does my troubleshooting point to a bad PCB and Compressor Failure? Should I fix or buy new?
As described in the video if all the loads can turn on and are running. And the refrigerator is not cooling at all. It would be the compressor. Don’t know if the control board is faulty.
The steel refrigerant lines running to the evaporators is defective and can corrode under the sprayed on insulation beneath the metal back plate. The only way to fix it is to peel the back plate over the lines with an angle grinder, chip out the insulation, then replace or seal the corroded steel lines with JB Weld. Then spray in more insulation, let it dry, stick the metal back on and tape over it. Muffler tape looks ugly but I can't see it. I used an infra red camera to find the lines and didn't cut much metal, but a laser thermometer could work too. You can get the refrigerant at Harbor Freight.
when the steel lines get hot, will they be a fire hazard to the foam?
Thanks for the video. My LG stopped cooling (both fridge and freezer compartments). The control board test was fine. I suspected the compressor or a refrigerant leak, but there was a vibration coming from inside the compressor when it was on. Can the compressor be defective if it is still vibrating? Tech said it was a bad compressor. He replaced it and all is good. But I was just curious how to tell if the compressor is bad if it's not completely dead. Thanks!
That sounds like the issue I'm having with mine.. diagnostic test was good, fans work, not blinking led light on the board. But it still won't cool.
My LG is not cooling to the set temps. Fridge or freezer. I ran the test and both fans came on full blast. But, out of test mode, nothing again. Thoughts?
If the fans are working in test mode it means that they work. If compressor works in test mode as well and the refrigerator is not cooling it means it is a sealed system issue. As stated in video.
i had a technican come ocer yesterday for my lg fridge he found it was the little flap on the inner left door that was shorting thr power, so he unplugged it power it up , the fridge didnt short out it was on for 12hr no issue,but when i placed it in my kitchenit shorted out the power again i try the another outlet same thing. so i took the extension cord that it was plugged in for over 12hr and used it on the outlet in the kitchen it didnt short out. i removed the extension cord that had a ground plug it shorten the power again, so i left the extension cord over night and its still going good. so i phone the techniain and explained it to him he was amazed ,,what he said on another circuit in the house and unplug everything on that and circuit and just have the fridge plugged in without the extension cord as he does some reason il come back after i do all that
I'm guessing your compressor was going out and about to short out and the other circuit you plugged into had a higher rating. Did it go out shortly after?
What if on third test I don't get the 33. 33 indication
That has happened to me. Also, I understand when it’s too warm of a temperature the defrost heater will not turn on and you won’t see the 33 33
i also have an LG door in door unit with the exact same issue. i had a tech replace the linear compressor with the updated one and he also did a software update. no difference, in fact the fridge runs a little warmer now. 50 F in the freezer side. what do you suggest? i believe he flushed out the system but i'm not 100% certain.
i’m sorry to hear that. All someone can do is go after the three essentials that make a sealed system issue. 1bad compressor, 2 partial restriction, and 3 refrigerant leak. Unfortunately some LG refrigerators are not repaired because of the excessive labor needed and parts. Another component that could be the culprit is a freezer Thermistor. But not likely if you have two evaporators and both compartments are not cooling. And the lg thermistors hardly ever go.
@@appliance63 ok no problem, thank you very much.
Mine gets colds then looses the cold again and any thoughts
The lines under the insulation are corroded.
One day man design LG refrigerators that work
The compressor was replaced a couple of years ago because it went bad. The thermistor was replaced recently because the compressor was running hot. What would be a reason for not cooling when the compressor is not hot to the touch - just warm? The evaporator fan works and the refrigerator only has one. It can’t be the compressor, again.
Unfortunately, I have seen the LG linear compressor replaced three times within a 10 year period.
after installing the new compressor you need to update the software.
@@nelsonmoran9000 yes if it is the TCA38151706 compressor.
Good morning sir.
I have a problem on my refrigerator. And when I press the test button for the third time the 33 33 is not indicating on my display
33 33 in test mode turns on the defrost cycle, will energize the heater. Will not turn on if to warm in freezer.
Why not put the diag switch on the front, warranty service is so bad
What's a ball park cost of this repair ?
If it’s under five years and you have the receipt, LG will pay for the labor and the compressor. If it’s over five years and within 10 years, you just have to pay for the labor which can be 400 to 600.
My refrigerator has the panel on top but it doesn’t have the button to test
It should have the same little black button on the control board even on top. I see them on the side-by-side refrigerator.
Mike is the same and give me a error 33 I don’t know what is the mean ?
Never seen a 33 code. You have 88, 22 and 33 means defrost mode in diagnostic.
Lost my LG compressor after 5 yearn, just out of warranty.
Wow that happened to me too.
Most LG compressors are warranty for 10 years. After five years you would have to pay for the labor and not the compressor.
My compressor and control board went at same time.. why? I have it 5 yrs am living in the Caribbean and I brought it at PC Richard's.. brand LG 30 cubic.. I just buy both of the parts in my country..
Thanks for the video! I see all the cockroach bodies and poop lol ... seen that a million times on refrigerators, yuck!
If the compressor is running and is hot to the touch and not cooling the main or freezer compartment has the compressor gone bad. All the diagnostic tests run clean.
Yes, if all the loads are working, the compressor is working constantly and the fans in both compartments are working. It would be a sealed system issue, which is a faulty compressor, partial restriction, or a leak. If you only have one evaporator in your refrigerator in the freezer compartment, then there’s a small chance that it could be a Thermistor/Sensor. If your refrigerator has two evaporator’s and both compartments are warm, like you said, it’s not likely that both thermistors/sensors are faulty at the same time.
Also, make sure your refrigerator doors are closing completely
@@appliance63 where is the thermistor/sensor and how do I check it? My fridge is warm temps in both fridge and freezer
Unfortunately, I didn’t make a video yet. You need a VoltOhm meter and the service manual to your specific model. In the service manual, you will go to the reference section where there is a temperature chart for the sensors. In the service manual you also be looking for the electrical diagram freezer sensor and refrigerator sensor. Once you know what two wires to probe, you’ll disconnect the refrigerator and ohm out those two sensor wires. You find out the temperature of the compartment and ohm out the sensor. If the temperature coincides with your ohm reading on the temperature chart, then the sensor is good.
Sorry to say the problem is that its a lg
These lg fridges are terrible. Ours just died after exactly 6 years. $2,000 junk. Never buy anything LG.
We have had 2 compressor failures. First failed after 4 years, the 2nd failed after 3 years. Expensive garbage...
Consider yourself lucky... I got just over 3 yrs out of our fridge... unbelievable
@@jimbojames9370 It's ridiculous. If they're throw aways, then they should be priced as such.
my.fridge keepa turning off
Sorry to hear that do you mean all the power just goes out on the refrigerator including the lights?
@@appliance63 the circuit fuse cuts out when i plug in the frigde to the power
Have you already tried plugging the refrigerator into another circuit outlet? You might have to use an extension cord.
@@appliance63 i did but still the same thing
If those circuit outlets are OK, then there is a short on the refrigerator or the main control board that is popping the circuit breaker or fuse.
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Спасибо
Glad it was helpful.