Refrigerator/Freezer Recharge Kit with Piercing Access Valve: amzn.to/3WhOuUc Tool Deals on Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita & More: acmetools.pxf.io/9gRWRy Tip Jar: www.paypal.com/paypalme/bensahlstrom You guys are awesome. As an affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Весы не нужны , ЕСТЬ линейка холодильщика на манометре , доза Р - 134 , давление при работающем М К плюс 0,2 бар , температура кипения будет минус 24°С , этого хватит для отключения питания М К по температуре .
Benjamin is so helpful. I had success with my Maytag after watching this video 3 times and planning ahead! I had to modify my R134 gauge set to have an R12 line to the piercing valve. I bled the blue & yellow lines before opening the pierce service port. Sure enough, it was at -12 PSIG (pounds per square inch gauge). Gradually, very slowly, I added R134 until the low side rose to +1 PSIG and closed it up. Add some R134, turn off the supply, and let the pressure settle. After charging, over the next 4 hours the freezer gradually decreased to -5 degrees. UPDATE: The charge lasted 10 months & I am filling the system again. This time I added more technology to the repair. Using an HBN electric meter, amps were .67 before I added R134. However, when I measured amps 6 months ago, it was .74. I conclude that the amps fell because there is less R134 in the system causing less resistance in the compressor. When I refill the compressor, the amps should return to .74. One thing I disagree with Ben and that's how much R134 to add. If u add more R134 than needed, the suction line will freeze. On my Maytag, +1 lb of low side pressure when the compressor is running, is correct.
Very good presentation. I worked in the field for many years on a lot of large equipment running AZ-50 at 25" of vacuum. When you get a leak in that, you have a major job on your hands! I wish I had the tools that are available today, it would have made things a lot easier. Just remember, when you think you've seen it all, you haven't!! You will make a good instructor!!
Excellent DIY video Ben. Clear, concise, informative without all the lead in hype and crappy background music so common among content creators. Your knowledge of coolant system diagnosis and repair is impressive and I assume this is more than a passing hobby for you. I have only recently began looking into how to repair a fridge and there is certainly more to it than one might guess. Thank you for the exception quality how to video.
You provide much detail on removing all air in lines, most just say, let out the refrigerant for a second. The advice on pressure and clogged cap tube is helpful and I did have that issue too. I never heard of just adding an estimated charge based on full charge. I am buying more refrigeration gear as I get the funds to do so. Thanks
If these appliances need a recharge, there is a corrosion pinhole leak somewhere on the aluminum tubing. Over time aluminum tubing in insulated wall sweats reacts and causes that. Also aluminum connection to steel or copper tubing corrode. When charging, use the amp meter to not go over the compressor rating of a full charge when appliance is running.
Why charge to compressor amps? Works for design, but if your got a lazy comp it’s not accurate. Capillary charge to frost line or subcooling. Or just simply weigh it in as per manufacturer recommendations. Do it by feel. Whatever way makes you happy. You seem opinionated best tech in town aye bud
I think that your videos are very informative and useful the way you explain yourself its easy to understand and in some of your videos is easy to understand what you are doing and please keep making the videos as like I said the way you explain and I saw another video where you explain how to connect the hoses and how to charge the system thank you for your videos 😂😂
Awesome timing Ben. For months my under cabinet ice maker has been making less and less ice. Then no ice last week. I half knew how to do this, but I put the piercing valve on and just tried to dump a can in. I didn't realize to bleed the line or that it would be such a slow feed. So I put my vacuum pump on it, drew it down and started over with a new can. Used my kitchen scale to weigh in 4ish ounces. Been making ice like new. Thanks.
R134a refrigerant is a single component and does not need to be inverted for liquid filling. It is safer to just use an upright refrigerant tank for gaseous filling, because the compressor inlet must be gaseous. The suction of liquid refrigerant into the compressor will damage the outlet valve.
I'm pretty sure for automobile air conditioning you don't want liquid dumping straight in...besides every small can I've ever used eventually gassed off and emptied into the system. Even the large bottle i used when rebuilding some automobile air conditioning compressors eventually completely emptied. So I was very surprised to see many techs inverting the bottle. Seems counterintuitive to me. My Machinest Mate at my unit in the military would sit the large tanks in a trash can with warm water. Someone in the know should clear this up. Thanks!
R u sure? I discharge R-134 into an old propane bottle that I evacuated. If I open the valve while in the upright position, gas comes out. If I invert it, liquid refrigerant comes out. I am sure of that. Even the container says liquid one way, and gas the other. So I respectfully disagree. And I have been charging automotive units since we were using R-12.
@@yomomma9070 I see. Also, I didn't realize the valves on the coolant cans were Schrader capable. I just thought of another thing.....to put the Schrader valve in, the entire system needs to be bled and recharged, correct?
@@TheZooBrooksAB that's the way I've done it. I will use the piercing type shown in this video to recover any remaining refrigerant then braze access fittings onto the process tube for permanent installation. You may be able to braze onto the process tubes after the crimp, idk. I've never attempted heating on a charged system; I was taught not to.
You did a perfect job, I have been 40 years in this business and I testified that you did everything write , and very nicely explaining ,congratulations . Good luck to you
Yup! Very Thankful for this detailed no nonsense Instructional video. It gave me enough information to add 134A to our 2002 Kenmore Bottom Freezer which wasn’t keeping temps in freezer, compressor running full time except when defrost timer kicked in. Condenser coils were barely warm 83 f. Compressor only running 27 minutes now and freezer staying -2 to -12f. Almost kicked this refrigerator to the curb but really like simple old skool design without all the electronics and computer board. Thanks Again!!
Very good, to the point, plus sensible but important little points like the bleeding process. Tire of the ford training fake (non)informative videos that are nothing more than just ads for their bs school.
Torquing to full stop with repeat insertions could cause leak. If you rely on threads to locate the seal point it might not return to full sealing force (needle to tube). For example: my piercing valve is 3 turns stop-to-stop ymmv. Go in ~2 1/2 turns to pierce, then back off and charge. Then in to light torque to ~2 3/4 turns, which is plenty for the 30psi resting pressure. Then you know the seal force is point-to-tube instead of thread-to-thread. This also allows for increased depth needed for future recharges.
You are really gifted. In explaining this. I watch the other video where you open to view the inside. That really help my brain see the what's going on inside other bodie of big talkers try to explain the start and relay which I did finally understand but seeing the inside I got the picture. It's looks like a air compressor which I didn't know. Any way thank you I will be watching more one more. Where can I buy commercial refrigerator parts cheap.
When charging a partially charged system like you just did, how did you decide how much refrigerant to add without knowing just how much was in the system? Is there a specific low side operating pressure that you can watch the gauge for?
When you are "topping off" a system it is mostly a guessing game. I would say that if you have a unit that is no longer working but still cools a tiny bit you can safely add at least 75% of the nameplate charge. As I said in the video having a slight overcharge in a system that you know has a tiny leak isn't the end of the world since it will not be very long before it loses that bit of extra refrigerant. FishFind3000 is correct that the only accurate way to know for sure that you have the correct charge is to evacuate the system and recharge it with the factory weight. Adding refrigerant to a leaking system is a last resort and is not a permanent fix. I'll try to make a video showing the process of fixing a leak and recharging a system at some point in time. This video is mostly to demonstrate and explain the unfortunate multi-year leak scenario and how you can make it work in the short term.
Ted, the unit was almost empty. By adding 4oz I slightly overcharged it but that was deliberate. It's just a way of making a unit with a known leak last a tiny bit longer between top-offs. It's not perfect but there's not really a better option other than fixing the leak or, if it can't be located, replacing the unit.
As far as pressures go the low side should stay in the 1 psi range for a r134a unit but I've found that it isn't always perfectly consistent depending on the unit. If the freezer is at about 0 F then the pressure should be around 1 PSI on the low side.
since you have the digital gauges and clamps, would it have been best to measure the superheat at your operating condition vs weighing the refrigerant?
Very thorough video. You definitely should have pinched off the process stub, removed the bullet valve, and brazed it shut. Those valves are always going to leak. The process for r290(propane) is exactly the same. You just have to be sure to vent out the old gas in a well-ventilated space, pull a good vacuum and charge it back up. It is such a small amount of r290 that you done have to worry too much about it’s explosive properties. But never leave the piercing valve on a system.
The valve allows him to come back and recharge it. Remember, this isn’t a professional perfection job the system wasn’t evacuated. he’s telling people how to add refrigerant for no money which could be very helpful to a less fortunate family 🙂
After watching 10 or 12 other video's on this topic, I found yours to be the most straight forward and helpful. I need to recharge a Sub-Zero 532 and am located in a remote area where there are no technicians. I have all the parts, pieces and refrigerant and wanted to ask if it would it be possible to consult (hire) you to assist me in the recharge process? Much appreciated.........Cliff
Should the compressor be very warm almost hot to the touch. The freezer is barely freezing but still working. It was making clicking sounds but hasn't for some time seems like it might have seized but it still is getting cold but not cold enough
Great video. But novice question: in this video you suggest suction pressure at 6-7psi. My fridge was powered down in hot climate for 9 months, and when I turned it on, it did not cool. Since I did not know the amount of remaining refrigerant in the system , I probably overcharged it to get to 7psi on the charge valve, and put ~6 (?) ounces of R134 instead of recommended 5 oz from the label. So now the fridge is working better than perfect, but the suction pipe gets frosted nearly up to the compressor. Is it dangerous? And if so, is it possible to remove some refrigerant from the system and how? I have seen other videos where the recommended suction pressure is ~2-3psi. If i try to bleed it, it bleeds with oil also, which is not good...
Required 4 oz. Charged to 4oz plus 1oz already in system then charges gas left in hose probably 1 to 2 oz. Yes, overcharged for sure. High head pressure will possibly end the compressor life.
Nice job. Probably should take that piercing valve out though and braze in a shrader valve. That might slow the leak down too. They say those pircing valves vibrate loose.
Great video! But I hope you did not replace that freezer. Freezers of that size are very difficult to find now. And the cost of this repair is 277 times less than the average new 20 cu. ft. upright freezer. I watched this video because I live in an apartment where the PM won't repair or replace the failing refrigerator. I wanted to understand what could be done to repair it. Thanks to this video I discovered I can buy a used $50 refrigerator in good condition and just recharge the silly thing.
Hello 👋 sorry for bothering, my refrigerator works but everytime started, sounds like drag and kick affecting the rest of the accessories like tv or air conditioner, what can I do? Thanks for your help.
The "Older" refrigerators and freezers used R12 or R22 Both of these refrigerants were banned. The gases would escape and float up into the air then destroy some of the ozone in our atmosphere. Now our ozone levels are recovering and fewer harmful solar rays will hit us. You did a good job on this freezer fix and showed that you can prolong the lifespan of a appliance instead of trashing it.
If I purchase a small can of R134a, could I use a regular kitchen scale to measure ounces, or does it have to be a special refrigerant scale? Thanks! Great informative video!
I'd like to ask a question with hopes you can answer it. I believe my son's Frigidaire needs a 'recharge" of Freon (R-134a). It's about 13-15 y/o and since it lost cooling capacity over the winter I 'm doubting any leaks. Actually, there's no reason to suspect leaks for it wasn't disturbed in any way. I've been told Freon will lose it's cooling ability over a given amount of time. Seems a recharge is the answer. Please comment. TY
Thank you for the video. Your video had valuable tips for bleeding the air out of lines, and using a scale to estimate the refrigerant added. Could you put together a video for us one-time DIY guys who bought the poor man's kit on Amazon (Lichamp A/C R134A Refrigerator Freon Recharge Kit with Bullet Piercing Valve)?
Excellent video. I would love to see a video of these gauges in full operation. I have a cheep set of the harbor freight ones. Something about Gilligan and primitive come to mind.
What if your top evaporator is ice cold like it's supposed to be but your bottom freezer evaporator R&B's french door refrigerators is not getting cold or freezing like it's supposed to ? Any suggestions ?
Great somebody's actually saying it about the inflammable refrigeration but you can't say too much it'll flagging the hell out of people Sainsbury's about 90% offer refrigeration out there they're not right can't say no more I will not work I'm in for the last 15 years as a top refrigeration and air conditioning engineer well done McKenna
Your video was excellent from a practical point of view. However the way you purged your hoses contaminated your tank. If you repeat that incorect purge you'll contaminate your tank more with each service call. Before opening valve on tank, both valves on gages must be open and the distal ends of both red and blue hoses open to atmosphere. Loosely attaching blue hose to bullet valve and loosely attaching unused red hose to back of gage will accomplish this. Now open valve on tank and quickly tighten blue hose to bullet valve, quickly close blue guage valve, quickly tighten distal end of red hose, close red guage valve. Charge 5 -6 psi suction but no more than 10.
I have water dispenser combine with mini refrigerator (before watch your video)we add r134a Freon With bullet piercing and adapter so 80%of condenser getting warm but piercing value starts to freezing on this sine I want to know we add right amount of Freon or still need it Thanks for Answer
He did but they don't always leak. Put one on about 30 years ago and still holding pressure. If the fridge fails I'll take the tap valve off and put a new O-ring in it and throw the fridge into the dump. lol.
Great explanation. I am left with one question though, through my research I have stumbled across HVAC tech sites that state normal low side psi for R134a is 0-1 psi. When you were wrapping up this recharge I could see 9 psi still showing on the gauge manifold as you were closing the pierce tap valve. Is that something to worry about?
What a great video. Very well done, thank you. Two questions: 1) I have a gauge set, but it's been used on an auto A/C systems and likely has some dye and oil contamination in it. What solvent should I use to clean the hoses and the inside of the gauge body? 2) I presume automotive 134a is OK to use on a 134a fridge, but I've heard that automotive 134a cans might also have oil in them. Is there a way be sure that the can I use is pure 134a and doesn't have anything else in it? Thanks!
Excellent presentation! You were clear and fully explained everything. You also spoke at a perfect speed. I didn't need to back up once. I'll be at Harbor Freight to buy my set up soon. Thank you.
@Benjamin Sahlstrom is there a reason you would not want to use one of the A/C stop leak ~type products? I understand that over charging with one might cause a blockage or at the very least is limiting the capacity of 134a in the freezer. However, if it works as advertised and would stop a slow leak, then what would be your concerns with using such a product?
Get a vacuum pump, also keep the tank out of the sun, I do a lot of automotive 134 and the sun and the tank need to avoid like Dracula and the sun, thanks for the tips so now I'll be able to do a bit more around the house
FYI you should have just taken that piercing valve put on a street of core removal tool or a t hooked up your line pressurized and then just tapped on the Schrader to get any air out that would be in the perfect thing then you could open the Pearson valve
Great post from you.👍What about the newer refrigerators from 2017? I have a refrigerator that has R600a as coolant in it. According to the manufacturer it is 46 grams. So far everything works with the refrigerator but it doesn't blow any cold air into the refrigerator compartment. There is definitely no coolant. However, how can I find out how much R600a is missing? Would it then make sense to pump the coolant completely out of the system using the compressor? Because then I could specifically pour in 46 grams using a scale like in your video. Thank you in advance" Mik
Video is for most part good but with the unit being a critical charge unit I would have done it a little differently, I would remove the entire change and then add the required amount. That extra refrigerant in the hoses might have put the charge over the top considering the amount already in the refrigerator is not known
I would have read a gauge not dumping by weight. U can turn the valve on, turn it off, let the system regulate. Read the gauge. Rinse and repeat til u get the correct psi.
Most of the time if you here that click on and off every few seconds it is the relay and O.L. That needs replaced.. I have also found that a leak as small as the one you have.One that is hard to locate.A stop leak agent works well .
you don't need a scale nor need to know how much gas there is in it, all you have to do is add a bit at a time and wait for the suction pressure to settle, once it settles around 5-6 psi its done to factory charge, you can charge it no more than 10 psi to compensate for leakage so it lasts longer but the suction line to the compressor will frost up for some time until the gas level reaches the factory charge or 5-6 psi, not a good idea if the unit is sitting on a carpet or a timber floor, every time the compressor stops the frost on the line will melt with water dripping under it, check the valve for leak with soapy water after closing.
Not only a great informative video, but you also preemptively covered those (tree nuggets )who are gonna whine that you should fix the leak. I agree that an ounce or two leaking every few years is a non issue to the environment. I justify that by looking at my hairless head. I save the environment daily by not needing hairspray.
it's better to charge as a gas with r134a because you are going to have the full length of yellow and blue hose full of liquid refrigerant that doesn't make it into the system otherwise. it's much more accurate to charge as a gas
Refrigerator/Freezer Recharge Kit with Piercing Access Valve: amzn.to/3WhOuUc
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You guys are awesome. As an affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Nice to see you keeping it around instead of sending it to the dump, in this throwaway society.
this video is the best one on TH-cam to introduce how to refill refrigerant into a fridge!!!
Finding the leak and fixing it would be one of your best videos! Do ti!
Why is it so hard to find someone with the tools and skills to come out and do it for me . Thanks a lot man , video was extremely useful .
This man is a genius. Who will give him thumbs down bruh. Not his fault you crappy appliance doesnt work
Great instructions! I really like how you take the time and patience to explain the fine details of the process!
Thank you for the education
great instructions ! very detailed
Весы не нужны , ЕСТЬ линейка холодильщика на манометре , доза Р - 134 , давление при работающем М К плюс 0,2 бар , температура кипения будет минус 24°С , этого хватит для отключения питания М К по температуре .
Benjamin is so helpful. I had success with my Maytag after watching this video 3 times and planning ahead! I had to modify my R134 gauge set to have an R12 line to the piercing valve. I bled the blue & yellow lines before opening the pierce service port. Sure enough, it was at -12 PSIG (pounds per square inch gauge). Gradually, very slowly, I added R134 until the low side rose to +1 PSIG and closed it up. Add some R134, turn off the supply, and let the pressure settle. After charging, over the next 4 hours the freezer gradually decreased to -5 degrees.
UPDATE: The charge lasted 10 months & I am filling the system again. This time I added more technology to the repair. Using an HBN electric meter, amps were .67 before I added R134. However, when I measured amps 6 months ago, it was .74. I conclude that the amps fell because there is less R134 in the system causing less resistance in the compressor. When I refill the compressor, the amps should return to .74. One thing I disagree with Ben and that's how much R134 to add. If u add more R134 than needed, the suction line will freeze. On my Maytag, +1 lb of low side pressure when the compressor is running, is correct.
Can you advise where do you get the R134a refrigerant from?
@@lukeh8869 your auto parts store.. it’s the same refrigerant used in cars..
@@lukeh8869 You can get it at Walmart too.
Finally, someone explained it to me in a way I understood. Thank you.
Very good presentation. I worked in the field for many years on a lot of large equipment running AZ-50 at 25" of vacuum. When you get a leak in that, you have a major job on your hands! I wish I had the tools that are available today, it would have made things a lot easier. Just remember, when you think you've seen it all, you haven't!! You will make a good instructor!!
Excellent DIY video Ben. Clear, concise, informative without all the lead in hype and crappy background music so common among content creators. Your knowledge of coolant system diagnosis and repair is impressive and I assume this is more than a passing hobby for you. I have only recently began looking into how to repair a fridge and there is certainly more to it than one might guess. Thank you for the exception quality how to video.
You provide much detail on removing all air in lines, most just say, let out the refrigerant for a second. The advice on pressure and clogged cap tube is helpful and I did have that issue too. I never heard of just adding an estimated charge based on full charge. I am buying more refrigeration gear as I get the funds to do so. Thanks
If these appliances need a recharge, there is a corrosion pinhole leak somewhere on the aluminum tubing. Over time aluminum tubing in insulated wall sweats reacts and causes that. Also aluminum connection to steel or copper tubing corrode. When charging, use the amp meter to not go over the compressor rating of a full charge when appliance is running.
No shit… the refrigerant doesn’t just disappear
Why charge to compressor amps? Works for design, but if your got a lazy comp it’s not accurate. Capillary charge to frost line or subcooling. Or just simply weigh it in as per manufacturer recommendations. Do it by feel. Whatever way makes you happy. You seem opinionated best tech in town aye bud
When connecting 2 different metals you can use whats called a diaelectric between them to prevent the chemical reaction process between 2 metals
@@Babyface_ash16
Excellent narration. Crystal clear explanation of the process
THANK YOU!! Watched your vid and purchased a $10 clamp. Added half can of 134 and my under-counter ice maker is working again. slow leak also.
I think that your videos are very informative and useful the way you explain yourself its easy to understand and in some of your videos is easy to understand what you are doing and please keep making the videos as like I said the way you explain and I saw another video where you explain how to connect the hoses and how to charge the system thank you for your videos 😂😂
way to point out which is the high side and which is the low side when you add that piercing valve. glad you got that crucial info in there
Awesome timing Ben. For months my under cabinet ice maker has been making less and less ice. Then no ice last week. I half knew how to do this, but I put the piercing valve on and just tried to dump a can in. I didn't realize to bleed the line or that it would be such a slow feed. So I put my vacuum pump on it, drew it down and started over with a new can. Used my kitchen scale to weigh in 4ish ounces. Been making ice like new. Thanks.
Great work!
R134a refrigerant is a single component and does not need to be inverted for liquid filling. It is safer to just use an upright refrigerant tank for gaseous filling, because the compressor inlet must be gaseous. The suction of liquid refrigerant into the compressor will damage the outlet valve.
thank for this comment. I heard this before, but always seen tech invert tank.
Charge it with vapor not liquid
I'm pretty sure for automobile air conditioning you don't want liquid dumping straight in...besides every small can I've ever used eventually gassed off and emptied into the system. Even the large bottle i used when rebuilding some automobile air conditioning compressors eventually completely emptied.
So I was very surprised to see many techs inverting the bottle.
Seems counterintuitive to me.
My Machinest Mate at my unit in the military would sit the large tanks in a trash can with warm water.
Someone in the know should clear this up.
Thanks!
Yes. If you need to give it a little push you can also use a hair dryer or a heat gun - keep temp around 100 F
R u sure? I discharge R-134 into an old propane bottle that I evacuated. If I open the valve while in the upright position, gas comes out. If I invert it, liquid refrigerant comes out. I am sure of that. Even the container says liquid one way, and gas the other. So I respectfully disagree. And I have been charging automotive units since we were using R-12.
I don't recommend those piercing type valves as a permanent installation. They leak as well. Use them to recover, then braze in some Schrader valves.
But for a quick fix it's ok .
Don't Schrader valves have rubber sealants? Wouldn't they just melt during the braze?
@@TheZooBrooksAB you have to remove the core prior to brazing, then once it cools you reinstall the core.
@@yomomma9070 I see. Also, I didn't realize the valves on the coolant cans were Schrader capable. I just thought of another thing.....to put the Schrader valve in, the entire system needs to be bled and recharged, correct?
@@TheZooBrooksAB that's the way I've done it. I will use the piercing type shown in this video to recover any remaining refrigerant then braze access fittings onto the process tube for permanent installation. You may be able to braze onto the process tubes after the crimp, idk. I've never attempted heating on a charged system; I was taught not to.
You did a perfect job, I have been 40 years in this business and I testified that you did everything write , and very nicely explaining ,congratulations .
Good luck to you
Yup! Very Thankful for this detailed no nonsense Instructional video. It gave me enough information to add 134A to our 2002 Kenmore Bottom Freezer which wasn’t keeping temps in freezer, compressor running full time except when defrost timer kicked in. Condenser coils were barely warm 83 f. Compressor only running 27 minutes now and freezer staying -2 to -12f. Almost kicked this refrigerator to the curb but really like simple old skool design without all the electronics and computer board.
Thanks Again!!
Very good, to the point, plus sensible but important little points like the bleeding process. Tire of the ford training fake (non)informative videos that are nothing more than just ads for their bs school.
Torquing to full stop with repeat insertions could cause leak.
If you rely on threads to locate the seal point it might not return to full sealing force (needle to tube).
For example: my piercing valve is 3 turns stop-to-stop ymmv. Go in ~2 1/2 turns to pierce, then back off and charge.
Then in to light torque to ~2 3/4 turns, which is plenty for the 30psi resting pressure.
Then you know the seal force is point-to-tube instead of thread-to-thread. This also allows for increased depth needed for future recharges.
Very articulate and well explained. You do a great job keep it up.
very impress how well you explain the hole process ....thanks for share
Bruh.. You forgot to check for carbon monoxide leaks. Lol... Good vid!👍
Very thorough explanation. Thank you.
Great video! This is the first video that I've seen that bleeds the hoses. Always bleed the hoses!
You are really gifted. In explaining this. I watch the other video where you open to view the inside. That really help my brain see the what's going on inside other bodie of big talkers try to explain the start and relay which I did finally understand but seeing the inside I got the picture. It's looks like a air compressor which I didn't know. Any way thank you I will be watching more one more. Where can I buy commercial refrigerator parts cheap.
Thanks Ben! Hope you're having a happy & safe Labor Day weekend.
Same to you!
When charging a partially charged system like you just did, how did you decide how much refrigerant to add without knowing just how much was in the system? Is there a specific low side operating pressure that you can watch the gauge for?
Absolutely. Bleeding the hose twice. Adding four ounces as shown by the scale.
Are we saying the unit was empty? 4 oz was the factory amount.
If you don’t evacuate the system there’s no way to know what’s in it.
When you are "topping off" a system it is mostly a guessing game. I would say that if you have a unit that is no longer working but still cools a tiny bit you can safely add at least 75% of the nameplate charge. As I said in the video having a slight overcharge in a system that you know has a tiny leak isn't the end of the world since it will not be very long before it loses that bit of extra refrigerant.
FishFind3000 is correct that the only accurate way to know for sure that you have the correct charge is to evacuate the system and recharge it with the factory weight. Adding refrigerant to a leaking system is a last resort and is not a permanent fix. I'll try to make a video showing the process of fixing a leak and recharging a system at some point in time. This video is mostly to demonstrate and explain the unfortunate multi-year leak scenario and how you can make it work in the short term.
Ted, the unit was almost empty. By adding 4oz I slightly overcharged it but that was deliberate. It's just a way of making a unit with a known leak last a tiny bit longer between top-offs. It's not perfect but there's not really a better option other than fixing the leak or, if it can't be located, replacing the unit.
As far as pressures go the low side should stay in the 1 psi range for a r134a unit but I've found that it isn't always perfectly consistent depending on the unit. If the freezer is at about 0 F then the pressure should be around 1 PSI on the low side.
You are very good at work, greeting engineer from Indonesia
Your Art of teach are verry nice!
Depart you were holding up was the filter drier it posed any water accumulation out of the refrigerant and oil
since you have the digital gauges and clamps, would it have been best to measure the superheat at your operating condition vs weighing the refrigerant?
i use Leak freeze to fix all my appliances, great stufff the .05oz red.
never leaks again permanently fixed.
Very thorough video. You definitely should have pinched off the process stub, removed the bullet valve, and brazed it shut. Those valves are always going to leak. The process for r290(propane) is exactly the same. You just have to be sure to vent out the old gas in a well-ventilated space, pull a good vacuum and charge it back up. It is such a small amount of r290 that you done have to worry too much about it’s explosive properties. But never leave the piercing valve on a system.
The valve allows him to come back and recharge it. Remember, this isn’t a professional perfection job the system wasn’t evacuated. he’s telling people how to add refrigerant for no money which could be very helpful to a less fortunate family 🙂
I got a lot of info from the video thank you.
After watching 10 or 12 other video's on this topic, I found yours to be the most straight forward and helpful. I need to recharge a Sub-Zero 532 and am located in a remote area where there are no technicians. I have all the parts, pieces and refrigerant and wanted to ask if it would it be possible to consult (hire) you to assist me in the recharge process? Much appreciated.........Cliff
Excellent video for a me as a DIYer 🎉
Great video. You are a great instructor. I wonder if you would provide a full training on refrigerator repair.
Should the compressor be very warm almost hot to the touch. The freezer is barely freezing but still working. It was making clicking sounds but hasn't for some time seems like it might have seized but it still is getting cold but not cold enough
I was thinking it might just need oiled and then refilled with freon.
Great video. But novice question: in this video you suggest suction pressure at 6-7psi. My fridge was powered down in hot climate for 9 months, and when I turned it on, it did not cool. Since I did not know the amount of remaining refrigerant in the system , I probably overcharged it to get to 7psi on the charge valve, and put ~6 (?) ounces of R134 instead of recommended 5 oz from the label. So now the fridge is working better than perfect, but the suction pipe gets frosted nearly up to the compressor. Is it dangerous? And if so, is it possible to remove some refrigerant from the system and how? I have seen other videos where the recommended suction pressure is ~2-3psi. If i try to bleed it, it bleeds with oil also, which is not good...
Required 4 oz. Charged to 4oz plus 1oz already in system then charges gas left in hose probably 1 to 2 oz. Yes, overcharged for sure. High head pressure will possibly end the compressor life.
well done job ! Very precise, proper ,accurate and clear !
Nice job. Probably should take that piercing valve out though and braze in a shrader valve. That might slow the leak down too. They say those pircing valves vibrate loose.
Great video! Though it took me a minute or two realize that this wasn't actually Elon Musk showing us how to charge a fridge. ;-/
Great video! But I hope you did not replace that freezer. Freezers of that size are very difficult to find now. And the cost of this repair is 277 times less than the average new 20 cu. ft. upright freezer. I watched this video because I live in an apartment where the PM won't repair or replace the failing refrigerator. I wanted to understand what could be done to repair it. Thanks to this video I discovered I can buy a used $50 refrigerator in good condition and just recharge the silly thing.
Hello 👋 sorry for bothering, my refrigerator works but everytime started, sounds like drag and kick affecting the rest of the accessories like tv or air conditioner, what can I do? Thanks for your help.
You may have too many devices on the circuit. Check with ammeter or call an electrician.
The "Older" refrigerators and freezers used R12 or R22 Both of these refrigerants were banned. The gases would escape and float up into the air then destroy some of the ozone in our atmosphere. Now our ozone levels are recovering and fewer harmful solar rays will hit us. You did a good job on this freezer fix and showed that you can prolong the lifespan of a appliance instead of trashing it.
R22 is still in use and used daily in commercial refrigeration until stocks are depleted
@@JamesThomas-wr2ub There are supposedly drop-in replacements for R22.
If I purchase a small can of R134a, could I use a regular kitchen scale to measure ounces, or does it have to be a special refrigerant scale? Thanks! Great informative video!
Kitchen scale will work.
I'd like to ask a question with hopes you can answer it. I believe my son's Frigidaire needs a 'recharge" of Freon (R-134a). It's about 13-15 y/o and since it lost cooling capacity over the winter I 'm doubting any leaks. Actually, there's no reason to suspect leaks for it wasn't disturbed in any way. I've been told Freon will lose it's cooling ability over a given amount of time. Seems a recharge is the answer. Please comment. TY
this video saves me time and money from taking a refrigeration short course. How much does it cost you to buy your digital gauge and scale?
The gauge is Little over 400. I was like damn. The manual gauge he has pinned is still steep but at a 300 dollar difference.
Great video ! very well presented you should be a instructor I am new to the appliance repair field.
Outstanding Job! Thank you, Sir 😁👍👍
Can you add freon with the stop leak additive for a small leak?
Awesome, one of the best I’ve seen
Nice, great info...,helping my family save $$$
Thank you for the video. Your video had valuable tips for bleeding the air out of lines, and using a scale to estimate the refrigerant added. Could you put together a video for us one-time DIY guys who bought the poor man's kit on Amazon (Lichamp A/C R134A Refrigerator Freon Recharge Kit with Bullet Piercing Valve)?
Excellent video.
I would love to see a video of these gauges in full operation. I have a cheep set of the harbor freight ones. Something about Gilligan and primitive come to mind.
What if your top evaporator is ice cold like it's supposed to be but your bottom freezer evaporator R&B's french door refrigerators is not getting cold or freezing like it's supposed to ? Any suggestions ?
What the low side be at for pressure when the refrigerator is working ? Thanks
R134a also works in older R12
Just charged a 1948 refrigerator
Works great
Great somebody's actually saying it about the inflammable refrigeration but you can't say too much it'll flagging the hell out of people Sainsbury's about 90% offer refrigeration out there they're not right can't say no more I will not work I'm in for the last 15 years as a top refrigeration and air conditioning engineer well done
McKenna
Nice explanation, thank you for sharing and taking the time to go through the whole process.
If the system has a leak and is running in a vacuum, wouldn’t you already have air/ moisture in the system?
I had this same thought and question.
Possibly depending on which side of the system the leak is on.
Your video was excellent from a practical point of view. However the way you purged your hoses contaminated your tank. If you repeat that incorect purge you'll contaminate your tank more with each service call. Before opening valve on tank, both valves on gages must be open and the distal ends of both red and blue hoses open to atmosphere. Loosely attaching blue hose to bullet valve and loosely attaching unused red hose to back of gage will accomplish this. Now open valve on tank and quickly tighten blue hose to bullet valve, quickly close blue guage valve, quickly tighten distal end of red hose, close red guage valve. Charge 5 -6 psi suction but no more than 10.
The valve on the tank is one way and can not be contaminated. They do that so the bottles can not be refilled. The exception is a recovery bottle.
Before i put freon in Freezer or Refrigerator do i need to check the temperature inside the house or outside the house
I have water dispenser combine with mini refrigerator (before watch your video)we add r134a Freon With bullet piercing and adapter so 80%of condenser getting warm but piercing value starts to freezing on this sine I want to know we add right amount of Freon or still need it
Thanks for Answer
Great little vid & info Benji ... I got a charge out of it ... Lol ...
You forgot to check and warn people about the tap valve being a leaker!
He did but they don't always leak. Put one on about 30 years ago and still holding pressure. If the fridge fails I'll take the tap valve off and put a new O-ring in it and throw the fridge into the dump. lol.
Good work brother 👍
I always wondered how you introduce freon into the units with no valve.
Great explanation. I am left with one question though, through my research I have stumbled across HVAC tech sites that state normal low side psi for R134a is 0-1 psi. When you were wrapping up this recharge I could see 9 psi still showing on the gauge manifold as you were closing the pierce tap valve. Is that something to worry about?
What a great video. Very well done, thank you.
Two questions:
1) I have a gauge set, but it's been used on an auto A/C systems and likely has some dye and oil contamination in it. What solvent should I use to clean the hoses and the inside of the gauge body?
2) I presume automotive 134a is OK to use on a 134a fridge, but I've heard that automotive 134a cans might also have oil in them. Is there a way be sure that the can I use is pure 134a and doesn't have anything else in it?
Thanks!
Excellent presentation! You were clear and fully explained everything. You also spoke at a perfect speed. I didn't need to back up once. I'll be at Harbor Freight to buy my set up soon. Thank you.
Thank you, Benjamin.
Glad to help!
The way appliance prices are now it's worth it
Please may teach me more on how , to tell the pressure of the compressor
I love these educating videos.
Why you turn the bottle upside-down? The feeding pipe goes all the way to the bottom. Or am I wrong?
Brilliant young man. Thanks.
@Benjamin Sahlstrom is there a reason you would not want to use one of the A/C stop leak ~type products? I understand that over charging with one might cause a blockage or at the very least is limiting the capacity of 134a in the freezer. However, if it works as advertised and would stop a slow leak, then what would be your concerns with using such a product?
Clogging the system.
how do you go about looking for / finding a leak if there is one?
Get a vacuum pump, also keep the tank out of the sun, I do a lot of automotive 134 and the sun and the tank need to avoid like Dracula and the sun, thanks for the tips so now I'll be able to do a bit more around the house
Is it possible to add a colorant to check, as they do with car AC's?
Rule of thumb always change drier,do pressure test and vacuum before adding refrigerants
Rule of thumb doesn’t apply to DIY resi fridge repair. Anything more than a tap and gas and dash is a waste of money.
Going to try this with a R410a dehumidifier. Wish me luck!
FYI you should have just taken that piercing valve put on a street of core removal tool or a t hooked up your line pressurized and then just tapped on the Schrader to get any air out that would be in the perfect thing then you could open the Pearson valve
Great post from you.👍What about the newer refrigerators from 2017? I have a refrigerator that has R600a as coolant in it. According to the manufacturer it is 46 grams. So far everything works with the refrigerator but it doesn't blow any cold air into the refrigerator compartment. There is definitely no coolant. However, how can I find out how much R600a is missing? Would it then make sense to pump the coolant completely out of the system using the compressor? Because then I could specifically pour in 46 grams using a scale like in your video. Thank you in advance" Mik
Video is for most part good but with the unit being a critical charge unit I would have done it a little differently, I would remove the entire change and then add the required amount. That extra refrigerant in the hoses might have put the charge over the top considering the amount already in the refrigerator is not known
I would have read a gauge not dumping by weight. U can turn the valve on, turn it off, let the system regulate. Read the gauge. Rinse and repeat til u get the correct psi.
I agree. The amount in the hoses is enough to overcharge especially since he doesn’t know how much is in the system
Thanks Benjamin
I have a kenmore freezer model 970 not cooling...can you help me?
Most of the time if you here that click on and off every few seconds it is the relay and O.L. That needs replaced.. I have also found that a leak as small as the one you have.One that is hard to locate.A stop leak agent works well .
Noooooo stop leak ever
Your equipment is very good.
you don't need a scale nor need to know how much gas there is in it, all you have to do is add a bit at a time and wait for the suction pressure to settle, once it settles around 5-6 psi its done to factory charge, you can charge it no more than 10 psi to compensate for leakage so it lasts longer but the suction line to the compressor will frost up for some time until the gas level reaches the factory charge or 5-6 psi, not a good idea if the unit is sitting on a carpet or a timber floor, every time the compressor stops the frost on the line will melt with water dripping under it, check the valve for leak with soapy water after closing.
Not only a great informative video, but you also preemptively covered those (tree nuggets )who are gonna whine that you should fix the leak. I agree that an ounce or two leaking every few years is a non issue to the environment. I justify that by looking at my hairless head. I save the environment daily by not needing hairspray.
Men wear hairspray??
@ if you lived through the 80s you did. Look at any photos of Motley Crue, Bon Jovi, Warrant, from that era.
@@Samlol23_drrich Pretty wild that people would want to look like those dorks.
it's better to charge as a gas with r134a because you are going to have the full length of yellow and blue hose full of liquid refrigerant that doesn't make it into the system otherwise. it's much more accurate to charge as a gas
Can you get some kind of "stop leak" internal sealant for those minor leaks?
My house unit use r22. Can I recharge it with r134?
No.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom What do you think would happen if I did?