Very helpful, thank you. I'm thinking of going into 15mm ancients or medieval and what makes me nervous is size compatibility. I was going to try Malburian in 15mm, bought a few figures from several companies and was horrified by the size differences. It put me off completely and I never did go in for that period. So more vids on different manufacturers (plastic or metal) with a major emphasis on compatibility would be very welcome.
Hi Tim - yes it can be a pain. If the difference isn't too bad I don't mind as people are different sizes and I like a bit of variety. Try this like for a great resource on ancients 15mm comparison and others www.madaxeman.com/main/Figure_Reviews.php
Great video. Hope you enjoy the figures and the game. Those two box sets are based on my metal Lurkio range so you can always top up with metals that match. Simon Hall
This isn't really plastic as we know it, i.e. polystyrene hard plastic, its SioCast, which is the new hotness for low run production. Its softer resin pvc that really likes your paint, so you don't really need to even prime it. Warlord has used it on several of their kits of late, as well as Battlefront, I'm not sure, but I would think that Bones Black might even use the process as well.
Yes its a strange beast Josh. Good and bad points. Think they need to tighten up extrusion/casting process quality. I am old fashioned and to be honest I would rather use an undercoat - belt and braces. I have seen it painted without but its the longevity of the paint job over a flexible material that would bug me if I didn't. Bit like when had the old airfix. Prefer hard plastic, simply because its easier to put together with liquid poly which also use for mold lines removal easily
@@warpaintfigures the best primer I've found for the more flexible figures is the Vallejo polyurethane, as it flexes with the figure. The old style polyethylene figures from Airfix, Revell, Esci, etc. seem to work well with rattlecans with plastic specific formulas.
Great video, I see the allure to the plastic figs a little more now, I still paint pewter ancients, do you know of any sellers of still use pewter casts?
TBH I couldn't tell you as I have never purchased them or seen them in the flesh as it were. But the sculpting on SL look a little crude in comparison in the pictures online. But then a picture doesn't always tell the whole story
Silly question, are the figures Polystyrene or polythene? I'm an ex 28mm painter - but my eyes are going as I am getting older and my old standard is no longer an option, and I get frustrated when comparing my 28's of a few years ago to what I am capable of now so no more beautiful stands of huscarls 😞 - I can easily still handle 15's to a good T.T. standard though. My nephew has expressed an interest in gaming - he lives abroad and weight is an issue. I was looking at the HYW range as a suitable pair of starter armies to knock out for him. If polystyrene they may fit the bill.
They are neither. They are a new substance which is a mix of plastic and resin. So polystyrene cement doesn't really work. But they are easy to assemble and paint. HYW should be cool to do. I sympathise with the whole eyesight thing. I have changed my painting methods vastly from 10 years ago
Pricewise I can't see much difference to 15mm metal figures which is surprising, maybe cavalry are cheaper. Also most wargamers are not into 'ready made' armies, it would be more appealing to have boxes of infantry and cavalry separate. Overall not a game changer.
It depends what maker you use. I think its a great way to get into Ancients. Overall I prefer hard plastic to this mix I have to say. Not a game changer but the way things will go if you look at Warlord Games releases. I think the quality has to improve first
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Very helpful, thank you. I'm thinking of going into 15mm ancients or medieval and what makes me nervous is size compatibility. I was going to try Malburian in 15mm, bought a few figures from several companies and was horrified by the size differences. It put me off completely and I never did go in for that period. So more vids on different manufacturers (plastic or metal) with a major emphasis on compatibility would be very welcome.
Hi Tim - yes it can be a pain. If the difference isn't too bad I don't mind as people are different sizes and I like a bit of variety. Try this like for a great resource on ancients 15mm comparison and others www.madaxeman.com/main/Figure_Reviews.php
@@warpaintfigures thank you!
Great video. Hope you enjoy the figures and the game. Those two box sets are based on my metal Lurkio range so you can always top up with metals that match. Simon Hall
Thanks Simon. Like the look of the Lurkio figures have to say
Thank you for this review!
Was a pleasure to do Damian. Glad you found it useful
Very helpful review, thank you for sharing.
Please keep up the good work man.
Glad it was helpful!
This isn't really plastic as we know it, i.e. polystyrene hard plastic, its SioCast, which is the new hotness for low run production. Its softer resin pvc that really likes your paint, so you don't really need to even prime it. Warlord has used it on several of their kits of late, as well as Battlefront, I'm not sure, but I would think that Bones Black might even use the process as well.
Yes its a strange beast Josh. Good and bad points. Think they need to tighten up extrusion/casting process quality. I am old fashioned and to be honest I would rather use an undercoat - belt and braces. I have seen it painted without but its the longevity of the paint job over a flexible material that would bug me if I didn't. Bit like when had the old airfix. Prefer hard plastic, simply because its easier to put together with liquid poly which also use for mold lines removal easily
@@warpaintfigures the best primer I've found for the more flexible figures is the Vallejo polyurethane, as it flexes with the figure. The old style polyethylene figures from Airfix, Revell, Esci, etc. seem to work well with rattlecans with plastic specific formulas.
thanks very insightful
Really informative video
Hi Lorraine - Glad You found it useful. They are painting up nicely as well
BTW The shileds look great if you use LBMS transfers which they are sized to fit.
Thanks for the tip Simon
Great video, I see the allure to the plastic figs a little more now, I still paint pewter ancients, do you know of any sellers of still use pewter casts?
How do these compare in scale to the Splintered Light dark ages models?
TBH I couldn't tell you as I have never purchased them or seen them in the flesh as it were. But the sculpting on SL look a little crude in comparison in the pictures online. But then a picture doesn't always tell the whole story
Silly question, are the figures Polystyrene or polythene? I'm an ex 28mm painter - but my eyes are going as I am getting older and my old standard is no longer an option, and I get frustrated when comparing my 28's of a few years ago to what I am capable of now so no more beautiful stands of huscarls 😞 - I can easily still handle 15's to a good T.T. standard though. My nephew has expressed an interest in gaming - he lives abroad and weight is an issue. I was looking at the HYW range as a suitable pair of starter armies to knock out for him. If polystyrene they may fit the bill.
They are neither. They are a new substance which is a mix of plastic and resin. So polystyrene cement doesn't really work. But they are easy to assemble and paint. HYW should be cool to do. I sympathise with the whole eyesight thing. I have changed my painting methods vastly from 10 years ago
@@warpaintfigures thank you
@@snapperxv Any time
Pricewise I can't see much difference to 15mm metal figures which is surprising, maybe cavalry are cheaper. Also most wargamers are not into 'ready made' armies, it would be more appealing to have boxes of infantry and cavalry separate. Overall not a game changer.
It depends what maker you use. I think its a great way to get into Ancients. Overall I prefer hard plastic to this mix I have to say. Not a game changer but the way things will go if you look at Warlord Games releases. I think the quality has to improve first