Sam demonstrates a few ways to drill using the wood lathe. You can find this and other "FUNdamentals of Woodturning" videos-playlist: • FUNdamentals of Woodtu...
About 12 months ago I bought a mixed lot of gouges and carving chisels, there was a half inch auger stuck into a handle. You’ve just quenched my inquisition. Coincidentally I've just upgraded my drill press's chuck and morse taper so I have one spare. Another superb video, thank you.
When boring with twist drill ,back it out often and clear the shavings using a stiff plastic brush, so you do not cut finger tips So the chips do not overheat the bit ,, or bind up the bit , smaller diameter bits could break off or even jam inside and not back out with the tailstock handwheel . Forstner bits with a lead spur ,,usually only have a lead spur on the edge , Speed bore bits have a tapered lead screw like an auger bit that helps to draw the bit into the timber , and the shoulders have 3 or 4 saw teeth and cot better boring side grain wood, Spade bits , have a long lead spur , so the leave an indent at least a quarter to 3/8" deeper than the cutting face
Thank you for your Video's, I am very new at wood turning in fact I am learning as much as I can before I start and to be honest, your explainations are very easy to follow and I am learning a lot from your in depth explinations. I hope you make lots more films on wood turning and wood working in general. THANKS AGAIN.
Very thorough instruction on drilling procedures on the lathe Sam, I must say my preferred drill type is the twist drill or the forstner bit, but that's just me :) Take care Mike
Great videos! Someone who's looking to get into wood turning their very informational and helpful. I have watched a lot of your videos and can't help but notice that in most of them you have what appears to be blood or some Injury to your hand.
Mandy In this video I still have all my fingers on my left hand. In Feb of 2015 I had an accident and lost part of 3 fingers on my left handle. Table saw accident. If there is any red on my hands it is not blood. It is red dye or stain. You are not the first to notice this. I am fine and doing well and still turning every day. Thanks Sam
I've got a step drill bit that tapers up to 30mm wide and gives a nice wide starting point for hollowing in one quick procedure and the cone shape makes light work of establishing the shape for my subsequent cuts. Not very good if you want a deeper hole but I thought I'd share seeing as though I've not seen anyone else do it...... Nice work Sam
hi the tip on masonry drill bit is made from tungsten carbide, its angle is set for breaking concrete etc. it will not stop any one grinding a new cutting angle to help cut wood better, similar to router bits. thanks for the videos hope your healing well from your accident.
Thanks Simon, I forgot to mention that I did sharpen the edge of the masonry bits. I will put a note up on the video to this effect thanks very much for watching Sam
Hi Sam thanks for another great video. I notice you never mentioned flat / spade bits. I have a 8 mm /5\16 flat bit which is 400 mm / 16" long mounted in a handle. I use it on the lathe mainly for wiring lamps but I have used to drill pilot holes for larger bits or setting the depth of hollow forms. It works well and clears the saw dust very well. I haven't tried anything larger than that as I think it would be difficult to hold on to. Any way keep up the good work Jim
Again, as always, even a seasoned turner (like me... ;) ) can learn so much from every video you come out with, vary valiable information. I like drilling using my tail stock since I've had mixed results using hand held drills (my first tool handle was for a Jacobs chuck for a drill, and of course I drilled it all wrong so it's off center...), but I don't know what it is, maybe my cheep lathe, but I almost never get a true hole, even if I make a divit to start with, at some point my drill starts to dance around... although not always, I guess it depends on the grain of the wood, and on how hard it is.
Yuval Whenever I use a handheld drill it is for drilling and grain perhaps in a small box. I do drill holes in hollow forms up to 10 inches deep but I always use my tailstock in a Jacobs Chuck. An Important thing is to have a slow lathe speed. I think somewhere below 500 RPMs is good. I assure you that quite often my drill holes are really off-center--oh well, not that big of a deal Thanks Sam
+Hank Lemerise I looked over the video and I just can't remember where I got them. I get some from Home Depot and other big box stores or off the internet. I sharpen my twist drills on my grinder which works. Sorry I could not be more specific. Sam
Cactus make shop Yes I have had several comments about the red dye. I could make some jokes about blood but I'm trying to hide that part Of my personality ha ha thanks Sam
Nice presentation Sam but you missed giving out the CAUTION when using Forsner, brad (lip and spur) bits - the centre pointed part of the bits is about 3mm (1/8") longer than the flat cutting part. The problem arises when you want a thin (3mm 1/8") top or bottom and you end up with a pinhole centre. Keep up the good work!!!
George That is a good point (no pun intended) about the drill bits. That really could be a problem. And actually that's a big consideration when drilling out for a hollow form. A particular drill bit may leave an unwanted shape in the bottom of your vessel. Thanks, Sam
Yet ANOTHER great video Sam! Always look forward to your videos, but I noticed something in this video that you don't do and that is use a threaded rod to anchor your drill chuck/morse taper into the tailstock so it won't come out when you remove the drill from the wood. I know it prevents you from using the tailstock quill to drill the hole and forces you to manually move the tailstock fwd/rvrse, but always thought it was the 'safer' way to go rather than the morse taper coming out of the tailstock accidently whenever trying to remove the drill bit from the wood. Any thoughts/comments? The other thing is I often use a metal drill starter bit (a short bit designed to start a drill into metal...) in end grain and/or hard/dense wood. I was taught that this allows a good straight center hole which helps a normal drill bit to drill straighter... Is this excessive or??? Again, your thoughts/comments? Again, great to see your hand healing and you back in the shop again! Safe turning always! Kenn
+Kenn Harris The last point about starting a hole with a starter bit is good advice. I do this when I want really good accuracy. I do use a threaded rod when I have a morse taper in the head stock which is unsupported by the live center. I never though about doing this in the tailstock. Sam
Very nice, I guess this is my third video of yours, I'm new to full/mid size lathes. It looks like the spinning wood helps keep the drill bit centered in the piece. I guess this makes sense, I just never thought about it before. I have acquired a Craftsman/Duracraft 3/4hp wood lathe and it was suggested to me to get a 3/4-16 tap and just tap out hardwood glue blocks and even to try turning with a 3/4 tapped wood block. Curious about your opinion about this (I found this video while searching for info!)
A masonry bit will not pull it self (like a screw) like a twist drill bit in a pre-drilled hole because it has the negative grind on the masonry drill face.
Great video Sam. I had heard that brad point bits tend to follow the grain when drilling in end grain. Not sure if you had heard that or use them for drilling end grain. I'd love to hear your thoughts on that.
Zac I have never heard that about Bradpoint drill bits. I actually use Forstner bits more when I'm drilling on the lathe. I have found that any drill bit Will not track straight if it starts off-center. Thanks Sam
This is exactly how Coco operates. She doesn't quite understand the idea of fetch. For her, it is more like keep away. If I really want the ball I have to chase her down. But she is a good distraction and makes me take a break once in a while. Thanks, Sam
Well, I certainly learned a lot from this video. #1) I was drilling my lid way too fast. #2) I should pre-drill a smaller hole first. Trying again tomorrow. My Jet 1642 has two belt settings. Which one do I use and does it matter?
+Donald Fugitt Thank you for your comment and question. No I really don't think it matters. I think you can drill most holes between 500 and 800 RPM. There is no need to turn really fast. And sometimes if you turn too fast, you will get A lot of heat which is a problem. Sam
Hi Sam I've used most of the drills mentioned here (haven't tried spade bits yet). Mostly its unproblematic. The difficulty comes when I want to make a fairly long hole with a small bit. It seems it's always off center at the headstock end when I'm done. A small twist drill (say 1/8") has some flexibility to it so I suppose that's the problem. But you can't get a stiffer Forstner bit smaller than about 1/4 inch. Any suggestions?
Daniel I understand your problem. I think you may have the same issue with any small drill bit. You might try a Bradpoint bit. For me the most important part is to establish A place to begin drilling. I like to use the tow of a skew chisel or maybe A parting tool. If the starting point is nice and centered, the drilling Will stay more true as you drill. Thanks Sam
I think the most important part is to begin with a depression in the wood where you'll start drilling. I usually use the toe of A skew chisel for some sort of parting tool. The better job I didn't here, the more centered the drill bit is. I think a 3/16 inch drill bit for a quarter of an inch drill bit works best. It is never too well centered and I like to slow my lathe speed down for that reason. Thanks Sam
James I can see this will take a while to heal. My biggest problem right now is some swelling in one of my fingers that was cut. I was in the shop today and took photos of some pieces I need to put on my website. So I'm kind of taking it easy. Thanks talk to you later Sam
WYOMINGWOODTURNER I cut the tip of my left index finger last August - an "oops" like yours. Although it is fully healed, it is still too sensitive to play guitar. I hope it doesn't happen to yours! Take care.
+Dr. Michael Sure it would be safe. I don't ordinarily drill to hollow out boxes. BUT.....if I am rough turning 5+ boxes I will. Totally safe and a time saver. Sam
one comment alot of times when a morris taper bits spins in its holder the holder may be dirty inside barring any damage if not dirt seems to be the main culprit
+dennis buckner Dennis, you make it Point. I am guilty of very seldom cleaning out my Morris tapers. You have reminded me of something very important, I appreciate it. I will clean these the next time I'm in my shop. Thanks Sam
+Hank Lemerise Well, I have many drill bits and different styles. I get them usually online. No particular brand. Do you have a specific on in mind? Sam
Tom Stratton I just saw this comment. Thanks I do appreciate that. The frustration is wanting to continue my daily activities: doing a little churning, making a video every few days, And mostly being out of my shop. We have a little club here with about 10 members and that keeps me busy. We have a meeting this Sunday and I'm sure I'll do a little bit of demonstrating and turning. That's the best therapy. Thanks Sam
Its great that you can turn so often Sam. My health deteriorates something awful during the winters hence only one video in three months. I'm desperate to do more... Cheers Tom
Enjoy your dog while you can, they are here today and gone tomorrow. Why can a turtle or even a parrot live sometimes over a hundred years old but canines get 15 approximately. What's up with that?????
Thank you Sam, enjoying the series, all the best for a speedy recovery.
Thanks very much for watching
Sam
About 12 months ago I bought a mixed lot of gouges and carving chisels, there was a half inch auger stuck into a handle. You’ve just quenched my inquisition.
Coincidentally I've just upgraded my drill press's chuck and morse taper so I have one spare.
Another superb video, thank you.
When boring with twist drill ,back it out often and clear the shavings using a stiff plastic brush, so you do not cut finger tips
So the chips do not overheat the bit ,, or bind up the bit , smaller diameter bits could break off or even jam inside and not back out with the tailstock handwheel . Forstner bits with a lead spur ,,usually only have a lead spur on the edge ,
Speed bore bits have a tapered lead screw like an auger bit that helps to draw the bit into the timber , and the shoulders have 3 or 4 saw teeth and cot better boring side grain wood,
Spade bits , have a long lead spur , so the leave an indent at least a quarter to 3/8" deeper than the cutting face
I’m so happy I found your channel! Super helpful information. Thanks so much!
Thanks very much, Sam
Thank you for your Video's, I am very new at wood turning in fact I am learning as much as I can before I start and to be honest, your explainations are very easy to follow and I am learning a lot from your in depth explinations. I hope you make lots more films on wood turning and wood working in general. THANKS AGAIN.
Great video, definitely going to have to keep saving up to get my own shop started soon!
There is nothing more fun than setting up a new shop. I wish you luck. Sam
Very thorough instruction on drilling procedures on the lathe Sam, I must say my preferred drill type is the twist drill or the forstner bit, but that's just me :)
Take care
Mike
Mike
I agree, the twist drill and the Forstner bit are my two favorites. as well. Thanks for watching
Sam
+Tim Bo
Hi Tim, I have to say that I always use a saw tooth forstner bit on end grain, and as yet, have never had a problem.
Cheers
Mike
Just love these. Videos you put out thank you!
Sam, thanks for another lesson. Still learning. JimE
Thank you very much, Sam
Sam, this is another excellent video.
Marshall Gorrow Just saw this comment....Thanks Sam
Great videos! Someone who's looking to get into wood turning their very informational and helpful. I have watched a lot of your videos and can't help but notice that in most of them you have what appears to be blood or some Injury to your hand.
Mandy
In this video I still have all my fingers on my left hand. In Feb of 2015 I had an accident and lost part of 3 fingers on my left handle. Table saw accident. If there is any red on my hands it is not blood. It is red dye or stain. You are not the first to notice this. I am fine and doing well and still turning every day.
Thanks Sam
Will I to bleed while wood turning ?
Good information , Thanks
I've got a step drill bit that tapers up to 30mm wide and gives a nice wide starting point for hollowing in one quick procedure and the cone shape makes light work of establishing the shape for my subsequent cuts. Not very good if you want a deeper hole but I thought I'd share seeing as though I've not seen anyone else do it......
Nice work Sam
Jonto Dickens That would be a handy tool. Thanks for watching.
Sam
hi the tip on masonry drill bit is made from tungsten carbide, its angle is set for breaking concrete etc. it will not stop any one grinding a new cutting angle to help cut wood better, similar to router bits. thanks for the videos hope your healing well from your accident.
Thanks Simon, I forgot to mention that I did sharpen the edge of the masonry bits. I will put a note up on the video to this effect thanks very much for watching
Sam
Hi Sam thanks for another great video. I notice you never mentioned flat / spade bits. I have a 8 mm /5\16 flat bit which is 400 mm / 16" long mounted in a handle. I use it on the lathe mainly for wiring lamps but I have used to drill pilot holes for larger bits or setting the depth of hollow forms. It works well and clears the saw dust very well. I haven't tried anything larger than that as I think it would be difficult to hold on to. Any way keep up the good work Jim
Jim
Actually, I am just not used a spade bit much for drilling a hole. That is the main reason.
Sam
Again, as always, even a seasoned turner (like me... ;) ) can learn so much from every video you come out with, vary valiable information.
I like drilling using my tail stock since I've had mixed results using hand held drills (my first tool handle was for a Jacobs chuck for a drill, and of course I drilled it all wrong so it's off center...), but I don't know what it is, maybe my cheep lathe, but I almost never get a true hole, even if I make a divit to start with, at some point my drill starts to dance around... although not always, I guess it depends on the grain of the wood, and on how hard it is.
Yuval
Whenever I use a handheld drill it is for drilling and grain perhaps in a small box. I do drill holes in hollow forms up to 10 inches deep but I always use my tailstock in a Jacobs Chuck. An Important thing is to have a slow lathe speed. I think somewhere below 500 RPMs is good.
I assure you that quite often my drill holes are really off-center--oh well, not that big of a deal
Thanks Sam
samthe bits you were showing on #2 DRILLING ON LATHE AND JACOB CHUCK.THANKS HANK
+Hank Lemerise I looked over the video and I just can't remember where I got them. I get some from Home Depot and other big box stores or off the internet. I sharpen my twist drills on my grinder which works. Sorry I could not be more specific.
Sam
Sam, a little foreshadowing with the red dye on the fingers! So sorry about your accident. Looking forward to more videos.
Cactus make shop
Yes I have had several comments about the red dye. I could make some jokes about blood but I'm trying to hide that part
Of my personality ha ha thanks Sam
Nice presentation Sam but you missed giving out the CAUTION when using Forsner, brad (lip and spur) bits - the centre pointed part of the bits is about 3mm (1/8") longer than the flat cutting part. The problem arises when you want a thin (3mm 1/8") top or bottom and you end up with a pinhole centre. Keep up the good work!!!
George
That is a good point (no pun intended) about the drill bits. That really could be a problem. And actually that's a big consideration when drilling out for a hollow form. A particular drill bit may leave an unwanted shape in the bottom of your vessel. Thanks, Sam
Yet ANOTHER great video Sam! Always look forward to your videos, but I noticed something in this video that you don't do and that is use a threaded rod to anchor your drill chuck/morse taper into the tailstock so it won't come out when you remove the drill from the wood. I know it prevents you from using the tailstock quill to drill the hole and forces you to manually move the tailstock fwd/rvrse, but always thought it was the 'safer' way to go rather than the morse taper coming out of the tailstock accidently whenever trying to remove the drill bit from the wood. Any thoughts/comments?
The other thing is I often use a metal drill starter bit (a short bit designed to start a drill into metal...) in end grain and/or hard/dense wood. I was taught that this allows a good straight center hole which helps a normal drill bit to drill straighter... Is this excessive or??? Again, your thoughts/comments?
Again, great to see your hand healing and you back in the shop again! Safe turning always!
Kenn
+Kenn Harris The last point about starting a hole with a starter bit is good advice. I do this when I want really good accuracy.
I do use a threaded rod when I have a morse taper in the head stock which is unsupported by the live center. I never though about doing this in the tailstock.
Sam
Very nice...
Mr. Van I use a Fostner to drill?
Thanks very much...
Very nice, I guess this is my third video of yours, I'm new to full/mid size lathes. It looks like the spinning wood helps keep the drill bit centered in the piece. I guess this makes sense, I just never thought about it before.
I have acquired a Craftsman/Duracraft 3/4hp wood lathe and it was suggested to me to get a 3/4-16 tap and just tap out hardwood glue blocks and even to try turning with a 3/4 tapped wood block. Curious about your opinion about this (I found this video while searching for info!)
I am not sure what you are trying to do? Are you taping with 3/4-16 to thread this on to your lathes spindle? Sam
A masonry bit will not pull it self (like a screw) like a twist drill bit in a pre-drilled hole because it has the negative grind on the masonry drill face.
Great video Sam. I had heard that brad point bits tend to follow the grain when drilling in end grain. Not sure if you had heard that or use them for drilling end grain. I'd love to hear your thoughts on that.
Zac
I have never heard that about Bradpoint drill bits. I actually use Forstner bits more when I'm drilling on the lathe. I have found that any drill bit Will not track straight if it starts off-center.
Thanks Sam
At 6:03: "This is my ball! Do you want to play with me? No? But this is my ball, ok?" ;-)
This is exactly how Coco operates. She doesn't quite understand the idea of fetch. For her, it is more like keep away. If I really want the ball I have to chase her down. But she is a good distraction and makes me take a break once in a while. Thanks, Sam
making the hole in the wood is very difficult. Can your technique be applied in one foot long pieces?
I believe drilling a foot into end grain is best done with a jacobs chuck. I have done it with my 1/2" hand-held drill but it is difficult. Sam
Well, I certainly learned a lot from this video. #1) I was drilling my lid way too fast. #2) I should pre-drill a smaller hole first. Trying again tomorrow. My Jet 1642 has two belt settings. Which one do I use and does it matter?
+Donald Fugitt
Thank you for your comment and question. No I really don't think it matters. I think you can drill most holes between 500 and 800 RPM. There is no need to turn really fast. And sometimes if you turn too fast, you will get A lot of heat which is a problem. Sam
Hi Sam
I've used most of the drills mentioned here (haven't tried spade bits yet). Mostly its unproblematic. The difficulty comes when I want to make a fairly long hole with a small bit. It seems it's always off center at the headstock end when I'm done. A small twist drill (say 1/8") has some flexibility to it so I suppose that's the problem. But you can't get a stiffer Forstner bit smaller than about 1/4 inch. Any suggestions?
Daniel
I understand your problem. I think you may have the same issue with any small drill bit. You might try a Bradpoint bit. For me the most important part is to establish A place to begin drilling. I like to use the tow of a skew chisel or maybe A parting tool. If the starting point is nice and centered, the drilling Will stay more true as you drill.
Thanks Sam
Don’t use spade bits!
Hi Sam. thanks for sharing. Do you have a tip for drilling by hand and not ending with a wobble? Maybe I need a level and a square :-) Marc
I think the most important part is to begin with a depression in the wood where you'll start drilling. I usually use the toe of A skew chisel for some sort of parting tool. The better job I didn't here, the more centered the drill bit is. I think a 3/16 inch drill bit for a quarter of an inch drill bit works best. It is never too well centered and I like to slow my lathe speed down for that reason.
Thanks Sam
Hope you are healing well.
James
I can see this will take a while to heal. My biggest problem right now is some swelling in one of my fingers that was cut.
I was in the shop today and took photos of some pieces I need to put on my website. So I'm kind of taking it easy. Thanks talk to you later Sam
WYOMINGWOODTURNER I cut the tip of my left index finger last August - an "oops" like yours. Although it is fully healed, it is still too sensitive to play guitar. I hope it doesn't happen to yours! Take care.
Good Ideas, what about Drilling with large Forstner bit on the lathe to hollow small boxes, Is it safe?
+Dr. Michael Sure it would be safe. I don't ordinarily drill to hollow out boxes. BUT.....if I am rough turning 5+ boxes I will. Totally safe and a time saver.
Sam
Sam, I'm in Bozeman, Montana. What part of Wyoming are you in ? I'm a novice and need to ask questions, would that be ok ? Wayne Joyner
Wayne, I live in Billings right now. You are welcome to call me at 307-431-5395. I would be happy to talk to you and answer any questions Sam.
If you would rather do an email, mine is samandcheryle@gmail.com Sam
one comment alot of times when a morris taper bits spins in its holder the holder may be dirty inside barring any damage if not dirt seems to be the main culprit
+dennis buckner Dennis, you make it
Point. I am guilty of very seldom cleaning out my Morris tapers. You have reminded me of something very important, I appreciate it. I will clean these the next time I'm in my shop. Thanks Sam
sam were do you purchase your drill bits.thanks hank
+Hank Lemerise Well, I have many drill bits and different styles. I get them usually online. No particular brand.
Do you have a specific on in mind?
Sam
Hi Sam... No sign of bandages... How are your finger doing?
Take care
Tom
Tom, I actually made this video before my accident. From here on you will see the damage. Thank you very much for your support.
Sam
People do care about you Sam, it's not just a selfish fear that we may miss your videos :-;
Tom
Tom Stratton I just saw this comment. Thanks I do appreciate that. The frustration is wanting to continue my daily activities: doing a little churning, making a video every few days, And mostly being out of my shop. We have a little club here with about 10 members and that keeps me busy. We have a meeting this Sunday and I'm sure I'll do a little bit of demonstrating and turning. That's the best therapy. Thanks
Sam
Its great that you can turn so often Sam. My health deteriorates something awful during the winters hence only one video in three months. I'm desperate to do more...
Cheers
Tom
Enjoy your dog while you can, they are here today and gone tomorrow. Why can a turtle or even a parrot live sometimes over a hundred years old but canines get 15 approximately. What's up with that?????
Blood. Again!
No....just red stain Sam
67th.
This dude is always blooded up. WTF!
Yep, Blood sweat and tears.... 😃 No blood just wood dye.....