My DTFB needle-cut Simple Cub flew pretty well a few times, then developed some terrible habits and eventually went it's own way right into the trash heap. The parts are now in a Versa Wing, flying much better and putting smiles on our faces.
I think I’ll try the scout since I haven’t been able to balance the cub. After three failed attempts (tail heavy) and crashes it’s pretty beat up and I’m really frustrated with it. CG seems to check out but as soon as it takes off the nose points up and it’s uncontrollable, ending in tip stall and rollover nose plant.
Hi, just started watching and I'm loving the channel . I was wondering, since you don't love this model. Is there another ft model you recommend for a complete beginner. If so what hardware/ setup would you suggest. Thanks for your time!!
I recommend the FT Simple Scout. Very similar airplane in terms of build, but much more stable and enjoyable to fly. It is the plane I started off with. Heres the recommended electronics: Motor/ESC: www.amazon.com/Hobbypower-1000kv-Brushless-Multicopter-Quadcopter/dp/B00E7LG85O/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=hobbypower+a2212&qid=1588479318&sr=8-1 Servos: www.amazon.com/Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Remote-Control/dp/B072V529YD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=PQ1S019K8A83&dchild=1&keywords=miuzei+10+pcs+sg90+9g+servo+motor+kit&qid=1588479355&sprefix=miuzei+%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRDVTNk5KQ1hNSFJNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzQwNjcyMkI1QlNUQ1cwMjdQNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzgwNzI2MzgxOFI1NTZUME9PViZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= Battery: www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=tattu+1300&qid=1588479379&sr=8-1 Propeller: www.amazon.com/APC-Landing-Products-LP09047SF-B4-9x4-7-Flyer/dp/B01F4K0E4C/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=9x4.7&qid=1588479401&sr=8-4 Receiver (If using Spektrum) www.buddyrc.com/collections/radio-receivers/products/lemon-rx-dsmx-dsm2-compatible-6-channel-receiver?variant=30274444230742
Li-ion packs are much heavier, and should only be used for applicable scenarios. in these cases, a 1300-2200 3s LiPo pack will be much better and lighter.
Hi do you know if the landing gear wire itself is included in the speed build kit? It doesn’t actually say but I’m assuming from this video that it is?
@@samuelkrajc Yes it is included, along with many other very helpful items. Like Velcro for holding the battery, pop sickle sticks, rubber bands, pushrods, horns. Actually a nice hardware package.
The FT Scout is superior in every way. Better control rod placement, mid-mounted wing, easier build, better balance and a better overall airframe. I have a Scout, but built this to see what all the hubbub was about. It's just not a good model.
What motor/esc/prop would you recommend? I’m brand new to all of this. I got my cub put together with a B back. First two flights were immediate crashes. Waiting on new props in the mail.
You have got the right stuff, just need to put it all together. Keep trying, remember everyone crashes and you just have to take that and gain experience from it. I like the Simple Scout better, I think its a better beginner platform (having flown both) So if the cub doesn't work out thats a good next step.
I'm not sure if this is just me but my elevators are hitting up on the rudder when I use both which inhibits either rudder or elevator angle. did anyone else run across this problem? if u did, how did u fix that
If you throw all the flite test specs out the window and use better electronics (especially motor, prop and use metal gear servos) plus modify the design inside the fuse to place your electronics in a different location you can make the cub a decent flyer. Never EVER use the ft power packs, they are a very poor choice and cost stupid money for a setup that will be underpowered and will also strip the gears on the junk servos. Do not glue the power pod in! You should be mounting the ESC to the underside of it and placing your battery's in it!!!! Once the wing is made and dihedral is set, cut a slit in the underside of Tue wing fill with hot glue and force in a carbon fibre rod, the wing will NEVER split. For the area where the rubber bands cross the wing, milk jug plastic round the leading and trailing edges will prevent all damage. The same milk jug plastic should be placed on the belly from the nose too just before the rear wing mount, it will stop the belly getting destroyed during landings and landings should be belly and not with landing gear! The cub will fly well on a storch wing, the balance is unchanged and you can switch between a cub and a storch wing without making any changes to balance weights. On a storch wing , the lift goes through the roof and you can achieve very long flight times, my absolute record is 35 mins and roughly 18 miles total distance on a 4200mah 3s. I take my cubs ( I've built loads) on long range flights and also go cloud surfing with them, once you have the mods fine tuned and the right setup, they are much more capable than the docile trainer it was originally designed as. I've got many factory made epo planes but pushing the cub to the absolute limits and then trying to squeeze just that little bit more out of it has become a hobby I'm its own right :) Nobody on TH-cam flys the cub like I do, I hold 3 world records for the cub- Altitude: 6,500ft Greatest range from home: 4 miles @ 800ft and 3miles @ 4,000ft Endurance: 35 mins and 18 miles traveled :) Check out the cub videos I have on my channel , I guarantee you ain't seen a cub flown like I fly it before ha ha. Here's two examples :) th-cam.com/video/C1mJZz5Pbxs/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/vRlEfaGxySI/w-d-xo.html
Wow, you have quite the FT cub Pep talk! In terms of my electronics, I think they are a great match for this plane, nothing crazy but this same setup flies great on my other planes up to the FT explorer so I think it is an excellent match. I also dont Mind using plastic gear servos, they are nothing special but they get the job done and I haven't had more than 1-2 stripping issues after building over 50 FT planes and operating a fleet of 15 for years. Just my thoughts. I also perfer to glue the powerpod in for structural support... Some who want removeable electronics may decide otherwise but a glued powerpod obviously gives amazing strength to the fuse, and I just use NACA ducts to cool the ESC. I also do agree, FT power pods are way too expensive for the job. In terms of your other advice, it sounds real good. Unfortunately I just am not a big fan of the cub in general, I swear by the scout, which in my opinion flies much better (I have built 7 of them lol)... Just my thoughts. anyway thanks for watching, and cool videos!
@@CustomFPV if you glue the power pod in then your putting your battery's underneath, that severely limits your battery size, putting the battery in the pod is much better. Another reason to put the battery in the pod is that you can do away with that gaping hole on the front of the plane, I make my underside section come right up to ends of the power pod rails and have a \_/ shape cut in it to clear the ESC when pulling the pod in and out, it makes the plane a load more aerodynamic and increases speed and flight time! You will notice in my videos that my cubs have two slots cut in the top of the nose, that is ventilation for the battery because I run my packs (up to 4200mah 3s) In there, it provides enough airflow to keep my lipos happy in the summer, in the winter I tape over them :) Also, you don't want the nose to he super strong, you want it to crumple in a crash, you just cut the nose off and bond a new section in. By making the nose super rigid, the forces in a crash have to go somewhere and the rigid nose just transfers those forces further back and inflicts damage to the fuse level with the screen or further back. Its better for the damage to be right in the nose than Center of fuse plus the crumpling absorbs a lot of energy.
@@stevefox3763 Valid points, we do things a little differently I guess, which is okay. I do agree with the nose crumpling idea, however I still have found gluing to be superior as usually my power pod becomes loose after rough landings or even just high power and high G manuvers. Obviously gluing the pod in forces the ESC to be inside, so the batt can be removeable. I do see the idea behind your setup, which is great, and you obviously have much more experience with this plane. Things to consider!
@@CustomFPV when you say the pod becomes loose, do you mean the holes where the securing skewer passes through get elongated? On my cubs I only have one, I put it at the Rear as two are not necessary but I use prop spacers set into the fuse to reinforce the fuse body and on the power pod itself I glue a square of extra foam on where the skewer passes through and also a square of milk jug plastic :) It makes it tough enough to survive hundreds of battery changes and also rough landings but because the strong point is way back, in a crash the pod is able to crumple along almost all its length and act as a shock absorber and be easily replaced. Your advice to reinforce the elevator is good advice, I always reinforce mine top and bottom as it's just not strong enough without is it! Something I do on my cubs is a shelf behind the windscreen Inside the fuse, I have my Rx, cam switcher (I run two cams) and voltage osd on that shelf, it makes fitting everything in very easy and it also makes that area of the fuse very very strong and helps to limit the damage in a crash to the nose :) The milk jug plastic I have on the belly of mine for landing on also limts how far back damage can go in a crash and in even the heaviest impacts I only have to lop the nose off at the Base of the screen where it's damage free and bond a new nose section on. I've done so many cut and shut jobs on the cub that I'm kinda a pro at it now, no crash is un repairable :)
Steve Fox good advice! and yes I have used prop spacers to reinforce the power pod, however the nature of foam itself makes it loose regardless over time. thanks for the input!
when you said its a good way to get into the hobby i could not disagree more. imagine you were a begginer, you never flew before, didnt have any tools at all and did not buy any electronics. first of all, how would you build it? then when flying, what if you crashed? a good begginer plane would bounce back, but i have one of these. they dont i would say to stay away from this as a first plane and that you should go with something small, like a umx night vapor (although i would recommend something more sturdy) like an Eachine cub 500. im not trying to argue, just saying that you should really put yourself ina begginers shoes before recommending a plane for begginers
The beauty of these planes is that they are inexpensive and easy. They can be built quickly with tape, glue, and foam. They may be harder to get into flying, but when you crash, you don’t have to pay a lot of money for replacement parts. It lowers the barrier of entry for people who aren’t sure they want to be financially invested in the hobby. It also encourages flying without stabilizers or anything. That will help one progress much faster rather than relying on technology to keep them in the air. My thoughts only though.
@@CustomFPV i just think that an RTF model would be better, but i think a simple cub would be good if you had an experienced pilot with you to help with the assembly. we all have different opinions though
@@aidansrc2724 I disagree, Flite test has some good EPP models for beginners (FT airliner, FT freighter). But the problem is that those models are small, light planes that can be blown away by winds stronger than 12 MPH. As for the cub, it's a heavier plane that is super cheap (TX, RX, servos, Motor, ESC, airframe, and battery can be gotten for less than $80, if you look for it). The cub also allows for ailerons in case you find bank and yank easier. I've crashed my cub a lot and repairing it is super easy. I still recommend it as a beginner since you can easily upgrade to a more advanced plane with the power pack.
@@marksworkbench8705 well i ended up having to pay 450 in total remote (dx6e) flight test electronics an a spectrum receiver, it all added up to 450$ and for a beginner plane that comes as a kit thats just crazy.
4 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Please, you don't need to talk about what you're going to talk about then talk about it again. Makes for really boring watching. If you watch flight test, their instructional videos are usually prefaced with an index screen you can click on to go watch that part of the build. Maybe if you want to use a section by section style video you could use an index screen so you can cut down on the wordiness? Maybe write a script too then there will be fewer word whiskers 'um, uh, er, so, eh, like' and you won't keep repeating yourself. One other thing, edit out the parts where you say you'll link to things below if you aren't going to or haven't provided viewers with the links you said you would in the video. BS isn't a good way to get subscribers. Good luck, thanks for making the video.
Robot Munkee Thanks for the harsh criticism, I realize you think my videos are garbage and that’s okay, I don’t care. This is an older video and I can’t do too much about that, but I like to say these have improved over time. I really don’t have a lot of time to make amazing quality videos I am just an enthusiast trying to share his knowledge. At the end of the day these aren’t cinematic masterpieces they barely are entertaining. They are supposed to be informational. I’m sorry they aren’t up to your standards. thanks for watching i guess
My DTFB needle-cut Simple Cub flew pretty well a few times, then developed some terrible habits and eventually went it's own way right into the trash heap. The parts are now in a Versa Wing, flying much better and putting smiles on our faces.
I think I’ll try the scout since I haven’t been able to balance the cub. After three failed attempts (tail heavy) and crashes it’s pretty beat up and I’m really frustrated with it. CG seems to check out but as soon as it takes off the nose points up and it’s uncontrollable, ending in tip stall and rollover nose plant.
that’s similar to my experiences with the cub.
I bought a Cub but now I want a Scout . Thanks for the info .
Thanks for watching!
I bought both and was gonna build the cub first. Just changed my mind.
Hi, just started watching and I'm loving the channel .
I was wondering, since you don't love this model. Is there another ft model you recommend for a complete beginner. If so what hardware/ setup would you suggest. Thanks for your time!!
I recommend the FT Simple Scout. Very similar airplane in terms of build, but much more stable and enjoyable to fly. It is the plane I started off with.
Heres the recommended electronics:
Motor/ESC:
www.amazon.com/Hobbypower-1000kv-Brushless-Multicopter-Quadcopter/dp/B00E7LG85O/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=hobbypower+a2212&qid=1588479318&sr=8-1
Servos:
www.amazon.com/Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Remote-Control/dp/B072V529YD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=PQ1S019K8A83&dchild=1&keywords=miuzei+10+pcs+sg90+9g+servo+motor+kit&qid=1588479355&sprefix=miuzei+%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRDVTNk5KQ1hNSFJNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzQwNjcyMkI1QlNUQ1cwMjdQNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzgwNzI2MzgxOFI1NTZUME9PViZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Battery:
www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=tattu+1300&qid=1588479379&sr=8-1
Propeller:
www.amazon.com/APC-Landing-Products-LP09047SF-B4-9x4-7-Flyer/dp/B01F4K0E4C/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=9x4.7&qid=1588479401&sr=8-4
Receiver (If using Spektrum)
www.buddyrc.com/collections/radio-receivers/products/lemon-rx-dsmx-dsm2-compatible-6-channel-receiver?variant=30274444230742
@@CustomFPV Thank you so much for the thorough response! And which power pack would you equate this to? Thanks again!
@@noahpavey6504 I put a radial B pack in the Scout. With a 40-amp esc, I can use a 4S 1500!
i am interested in how much it weight with battery because mine with 1500mah 15c lion battery pack (diy) weights around 640grams
Li-ion packs are much heavier, and should only be used for applicable scenarios. in these cases, a 1300-2200 3s LiPo pack will be much better and lighter.
@@CustomFPV you are right but i am getting 16min battery backup
Great video keep it up. Where can I get the free plans for the simple cup. Thanks..
On Flitetest’s website, or search “FT simple cub free plans” on google.
Hi do you know if the landing gear wire itself is included in the speed build kit? It doesn’t actually say but I’m assuming from this video that it is?
I’m not sure but worst case you can always take an old coat hangar and bend it.
I believe that it is. Have never done a speed build kit, and samuel is correct to say that a coat hanger will do the job.
@@samuelkrajc Yes it is included, along with many other very helpful items. Like Velcro for holding the battery, pop sickle sticks, rubber bands, pushrods, horns. Actually a nice hardware package.
The FT Scout is superior in every way. Better control rod placement, mid-mounted wing, easier build, better balance and a better overall airframe. I have a Scout, but built this to see what all the hubbub was about. It's just not a good model.
What motor/esc/prop would you recommend? I’m brand new to all of this. I got my cub put together with a B back. First two flights were immediate crashes. Waiting on new props in the mail.
You have got the right stuff, just need to put it all together. Keep trying, remember everyone crashes and you just have to take that and gain experience from it. I like the Simple Scout better, I think its a better beginner platform (having flown both) So if the cub doesn't work out thats a good next step.
@@CustomFPV thanks! have you messed around with the FT aura gyro server thing?
I'm not sure if this is just me but my elevators are hitting up on the rudder when I use both which inhibits either rudder or elevator angle. did anyone else run across this problem? if u did, how did u fix that
It all depends on how you cut it out/assemble it. All you will need to do is just cut out more foam where necessary to get the proper clearance
What is your propeller size?
9x4.7 slow fly
If you throw all the flite test specs out the window and use better electronics (especially motor, prop and use metal gear servos) plus modify the design inside the fuse to place your electronics in a different location you can make the cub a decent flyer.
Never EVER use the ft power packs, they are a very poor choice and cost stupid money for a setup that will be underpowered and will also strip the gears on the junk servos.
Do not glue the power pod in!
You should be mounting the ESC to the underside of it and placing your battery's in it!!!!
Once the wing is made and dihedral is set, cut a slit in the underside of Tue wing fill with hot glue and force in a carbon fibre rod, the wing will NEVER split.
For the area where the rubber bands cross the wing, milk jug plastic round the leading and trailing edges will prevent all damage.
The same milk jug plastic should be placed on the belly from the nose too just before the rear wing mount, it will stop the belly getting destroyed during landings and landings should be belly and not with landing gear!
The cub will fly well on a storch wing, the balance is unchanged and you can switch between a cub and a storch wing without making any changes to balance weights.
On a storch wing , the lift goes through the roof and you can achieve very long flight times, my absolute record is 35 mins and roughly 18 miles total distance on a 4200mah 3s.
I take my cubs ( I've built loads) on long range flights and also go cloud surfing with them, once you have the mods fine tuned and the right setup, they are much more capable than the docile trainer it was originally designed as.
I've got many factory made epo planes but pushing the cub to the absolute limits and then trying to squeeze just that little bit more out of it has become a hobby I'm its own right :)
Nobody on TH-cam flys the cub like I do, I hold 3 world records for the cub-
Altitude: 6,500ft
Greatest range from home: 4 miles @ 800ft and 3miles @ 4,000ft
Endurance: 35 mins and 18 miles traveled :)
Check out the cub videos I have on my channel , I guarantee you ain't seen a cub flown like I fly it before ha ha.
Here's two examples :)
th-cam.com/video/C1mJZz5Pbxs/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/vRlEfaGxySI/w-d-xo.html
Wow, you have quite the FT cub Pep talk! In terms of my electronics, I think they are a great match for this plane, nothing crazy but this same setup flies great on my other planes up to the FT explorer so I think it is an excellent match. I also dont Mind using plastic gear servos, they are nothing special but they get the job done and I haven't had more than 1-2 stripping issues after building over 50 FT planes and operating a fleet of 15 for years. Just my thoughts. I also perfer to glue the powerpod in for structural support... Some who want removeable electronics may decide otherwise but a glued powerpod obviously gives amazing strength to the fuse, and I just use NACA ducts to cool the ESC. I also do agree, FT power pods are way too expensive for the job. In terms of your other advice, it sounds real good. Unfortunately I just am not a big fan of the cub in general, I swear by the scout, which in my opinion flies much better (I have built 7 of them lol)... Just my thoughts. anyway thanks for watching, and cool videos!
@@CustomFPV if you glue the power pod in then your putting your battery's underneath, that severely limits your battery size, putting the battery in the pod is much better.
Another reason to put the battery in the pod is that you can do away with that gaping hole on the front of the plane, I make my underside section come right up to ends of the power pod rails and have a \_/ shape cut in it to clear the ESC when pulling the pod in and out, it makes the plane a load more aerodynamic and increases speed and flight time!
You will notice in my videos that my cubs have two slots cut in the top of the nose, that is ventilation for the battery because I run my packs (up to 4200mah 3s) In there, it provides enough airflow to keep my lipos happy in the summer, in the winter I tape over them :)
Also, you don't want the nose to he super strong, you want it to crumple in a crash, you just cut the nose off and bond a new section in.
By making the nose super rigid, the forces in a crash have to go somewhere and the rigid nose just transfers those forces further back and inflicts damage to the fuse level with the screen or further back.
Its better for the damage to be right in the nose than Center of fuse plus the crumpling absorbs a lot of energy.
@@stevefox3763 Valid points, we do things a little differently I guess, which is okay. I do agree with the nose crumpling idea, however I still have found gluing to be superior as usually my power pod becomes loose after rough landings or even just high power and high G manuvers. Obviously gluing the pod in forces the ESC to be inside, so the batt can be removeable. I do see the idea behind your setup, which is great, and you obviously have much more experience with this plane. Things to consider!
@@CustomFPV when you say the pod becomes loose, do you mean the holes where the securing skewer passes through get elongated?
On my cubs I only have one, I put it at the Rear as two are not necessary but I use prop spacers set into the fuse to reinforce the fuse body and on the power pod itself I glue a square of extra foam on where the skewer passes through and also a square of milk jug plastic :)
It makes it tough enough to survive hundreds of battery changes and also rough landings but because the strong point is way back, in a crash the pod is able to crumple along almost all its length and act as a shock absorber and be easily replaced.
Your advice to reinforce the elevator is good advice, I always reinforce mine top and bottom as it's just not strong enough without is it!
Something I do on my cubs is a shelf behind the windscreen Inside the fuse, I have my Rx, cam switcher (I run two cams) and voltage osd on that shelf, it makes fitting everything in very easy and it also makes that area of the fuse very very strong and helps to limit the damage in a crash to the nose :)
The milk jug plastic I have on the belly of mine for landing on also limts how far back damage can go in a crash and in even the heaviest impacts I only have to lop the nose off at the Base of the screen where it's damage free and bond a new nose section on.
I've done so many cut and shut jobs on the cub that I'm kinda a pro at it now, no crash is un repairable :)
Steve Fox good advice! and yes I have used prop spacers to reinforce the power pod, however the nature of foam itself makes it loose regardless over time. thanks for the input!
No more caffeine for you!!!!
Haha, I used to talk super super fast, not sure why, maybe I was camera shy lol
when you said its a good way to get into the hobby i could not disagree more. imagine you were a begginer, you never flew before, didnt have any tools at all and did not buy any electronics. first of all, how would you build it? then when flying, what if you crashed? a good begginer plane would bounce back, but i have one of these. they dont i would say to stay away from this as a first plane and that you should go with something small, like a umx night vapor (although i would recommend something more sturdy) like an Eachine cub 500. im not trying to argue, just saying that you should really put yourself ina begginers shoes before recommending a plane for begginers
The beauty of these planes is that they are inexpensive and easy. They can be built quickly with tape, glue, and foam. They may be harder to get into flying, but when you crash, you don’t have to pay a lot of money for replacement parts. It lowers the barrier of entry for people who aren’t sure they want to be financially invested in the hobby. It also encourages flying without stabilizers or anything. That will help one progress much faster rather than relying on technology to keep them in the air. My thoughts only though.
@@CustomFPV i just think that an RTF model would be better, but i think a simple cub would be good if you had an experienced pilot with you to help with the assembly. we all have different opinions though
@@aidansrc2724 I disagree, Flite test has some good EPP models for beginners (FT airliner, FT freighter). But the problem is that those models are small, light planes that can be blown away by winds stronger than 12 MPH. As for the cub, it's a heavier plane that is super cheap (TX, RX, servos, Motor, ESC, airframe, and battery can be gotten for less than $80, if you look for it). The cub also allows for ailerons in case you find bank and yank easier. I've crashed my cub a lot and repairing it is super easy. I still recommend it as a beginner since you can easily upgrade to a more advanced plane with the power pack.
@@marksworkbench8705 well i ended up having to pay 450 in total remote (dx6e) flight test electronics an a spectrum receiver, it all added up to 450$ and for a beginner plane that comes as a kit thats just crazy.
Please, you don't need to talk about what you're going to talk about then talk about it again. Makes for really boring watching.
If you watch flight test, their instructional videos are usually prefaced with an index screen you can click on to go watch that part of the build. Maybe if you want to use a section by section style video you could use an index screen so you can cut down on the wordiness? Maybe write a script too then there will be fewer word whiskers 'um, uh, er, so, eh, like' and you won't keep repeating yourself. One other thing, edit out the parts where you say you'll link to things below if you aren't going to or haven't provided viewers with the links you said you would in the video.
BS isn't a good way to get subscribers.
Good luck, thanks for making the video.
Robot Munkee Thanks for the harsh criticism, I realize you think my videos are garbage and that’s okay, I don’t care. This is an older video and I can’t do too much about that, but I like to say these have improved over time. I really don’t have a lot of time to make amazing quality videos I am just an enthusiast trying to share his knowledge. At the end of the day these aren’t cinematic masterpieces they barely are entertaining. They are supposed to be informational. I’m sorry they aren’t up to your standards. thanks for watching i guess
Ha ha ha too lazy to add the front
It’s like that sometimes