I rebuild the old Honda 3wheelers and I was always intimidated by powder coating until a buddy said how easy it is so I bought an Eastwood DV gun and got to work. I have made a few modifications to my gun and now I'm able to control the amount of powder coming out of my gun. Most of what I powder coat is mild steel or aluminum and I hot flock everything. I found it frustrating sitting in front of my oven waiting for the powder to flow out then I discovered hot flocking. I warm the part up to cure temp then apply the powder. When it goes back in to the oven I set the timer for the cure duration and I'm done. To me hot flocking makes far more sense and works for what I do.
I enjoy your videos, I learn a lot from them. Please keep them coming. I have a question I hope you can help me with. I have a customer that has had 2 custom steel tubing end tables and a large living room table made at a fab shop. They look great all together welded. My concern is that everything is seal welded with no vent holes in the rectangle tubing. Is this a potential concern during the 400 deg. Curing
Continued, Curing, will the tubing possibly swell, Would you coat it as is or ask the customer if she minds me drilling small vevt holes. Thanks for your info.
@@byronhardt7313 I would not think that it would be an issues unless there is a ton of "junk" in the tubes, You may be surprised to find a small hole in a weld as just cause it looks complete it may not. Also I would not think it would be an issue to drill a small hole on a bottom side.
I’ve done this before. Shot the tight sections hot then let cool and shot the rest but I’ve noticed that the over spray that got on while hot showed through the part after it was completely done. Any thoughts?
Was that 3020? I once had to hot paint some mesh cages with clear coat it was an absolute nightmare the powder literally goes clear as soon as it hits the metal
I have a product that I powder coat all of the metal parts (3) by warming them first for about 5 minutes at cure temperature. The warmer temperature of the parts makes the powder coating always come out glass smooth. If done cold, I am never sure if I’m going to get a finish that doesn’t have some orange peel. When heated first for 5 minutes they ALWAYS are glass smooth. They don’t have to be cure temp just warmer. My guess is that the powder gets to the point of flowing out sooner and has more time while baking to flow out totally smooth.
To be honest I was copied right away on the flashlight holder by like 2 or 3 people including Columbia Coatings so I may never share it....lol Seems kinda sad that others are stealing my ideas to make a profit off them.
I do those exact cabinets and tanks everyday... I dont hot flock we do many of those things a day and it takes to long to heat every one first... I have found really easy ways to paint those areas and in it so much easier than you would ever imagine.. Just think about it... Air carries the powder into aclosed corner... Then the paint needs to stay but the air has to have a way out of the corner. your trying to force your spray by the air that is trying to escape. so to get paint into a hard area just paint right next to it and never pont directly into it...or so quick little passes over it and stay a little farthur away so the powder slows dont before it reaches the area... The powder wants to go into those areas but your not letting it.
We wash and phosphate the tanks. So they have to go in the oven to dry. It's much quicker to hit these spots while hot than to wait for them to cool and spray that way. I agree on your spray technique though.
great video,you said when you do wheels,you shoot front back and barrel,then you let it cool down and shoot front again? PS:do you tape off back of wheel anymore where lugs go?
Some times I do sometimes I don't. Depends on vehicle. It's prob a good idea to always tape off, not due to worries of wheel falling off but to make sure the wheel mounts square to hub.
the issue I recently had with hot flocking it just how easy it is to put down a thicker layer than you mean to. i went too much and i got drips and runs! didn't realize that was even possible. lmao
For hot flocking, do you keep things charged? You know, parts grounded and gun powered. So, everything is as how powder-coating is normally applied, except the part is hot?
@@RightNowPowderCoating on Facebook pages that seems to be the simplest thing to do yet the one that seems to give the most trouble to most folks... Myself included.
Thanks for watching!
I rebuild the old Honda 3wheelers and I was always intimidated by powder coating until a buddy said how easy it is so I bought an Eastwood DV gun and got to work. I have made a few modifications to my gun and now I'm able to control the amount of powder coming out of my gun. Most of what I powder coat is mild steel or aluminum and I hot flock everything. I found it frustrating sitting in front of my oven waiting for the powder to flow out then I discovered hot flocking. I warm the part up to cure temp then apply the powder. When it goes back in to the oven I set the timer for the cure duration and I'm done. To me hot flocking makes far more sense and works for what I do.
Thanks for adjusting that top number from 34 to 35! That one millisecond was almost painful! Glad to see its not just me lol
What the special tool? I'm learn powder coating all on my own so any tool or advice would help im using tge same gema as u
I hotflock a lot and love it
I needed this video a month ago 🤣. Great content
I got it to you as fast as I could!
Thanks for the vid, I just commented on another one of your videos about this same subject
Can you make video touching base on your phosphate setup and how it is done? Love your videos!
Coming soon!
Awesome finish!
Thanks!
Ha! There you go! Learn something every day! Thx! Mind blown.
Glad to help!
This is exactly what I've been looking for, thanks for the info, quick question, at what temp do you start to shoot the entire tank?
Under 150, really with this red it does not matter.
I just did a bmx frame and had to it after the chrome was done normal then the blue needed hot flock
Is there a set temperature for hot flocking,, and could or have you done any videos on the dos and don'ts of powder coating over chrome auto parts
I enjoy your videos, I learn a lot from them.
Please keep them coming.
I have a question I hope you can help me with.
I have a customer that has had 2 custom steel tubing end tables and a large living room table made at a fab shop. They look great all together welded.
My concern is that everything is seal welded with no vent holes in the rectangle tubing. Is this a potential concern during the 400 deg. Curing
Continued,
Curing, will the tubing possibly swell,
Would you coat it as is or ask the customer if she minds me drilling small vevt holes.
Thanks for your info.
@@byronhardt7313 I would not think that it would be an issues unless there is a ton of "junk" in the tubes, You may be surprised to find a small hole in a weld as just cause it looks complete it may not. Also I would not think it would be an issue to drill a small hole on a bottom side.
do you put them back in the oven after your done spraying for a second time
yes, need full cure!
I’ve done this before. Shot the tight sections hot then let cool and shot the rest but I’ve noticed that the over spray that got on while hot showed through the part after it was completely done. Any thoughts?
Thanks for posting
You bet
Do you need to connect the ground when hotflocking ?
dont have to but it sure does not hurt
Was that 3020? I once had to hot paint some mesh cages with clear coat it was an absolute nightmare the powder literally goes clear as soon as it hits the metal
do it do it do makes jobs go faster when you get good at it. also nice intro!
Do you put the items back in the oven and if so for how long?
What do you mean, like after I coat them, yes.
Please explain adjusting air pressure
Hope to get a video up soon, make sure to sub!
I have a product that I powder coat all of the metal parts (3) by warming them first for about 5 minutes at cure temperature. The warmer temperature of the parts makes the powder coating always come out glass smooth. If done cold, I am never sure if I’m going to get a finish that doesn’t have some orange peel. When heated first for 5 minutes they ALWAYS are glass smooth. They don’t have to be cure temp just warmer. My guess is that the powder gets to the point of flowing out sooner and has more time while baking to flow out totally smooth.
Been hot flocking for yrs it's the only way a know do the full wheel in 1 hit 👌🧙
what are you using at the bottom of your pickup tube?
something I built to filter out the clumps so my pump does not get clogged.
Will you be selling the tool at the end of the pickup tube that minimizes clogs?
To be honest I was copied right away on the flashlight holder by like 2 or 3 people including Columbia Coatings so I may never share it....lol Seems kinda sad that others are stealing my ideas to make a profit off them.
We use both Gema and Nordson, and Ive found Nordson is far superior in tight areas.
I do those exact cabinets and tanks everyday... I dont hot flock we do many of those things a day and it takes to long to heat every one first... I have found really easy ways to paint those areas and in it so much easier than you would ever imagine.. Just think about it... Air carries the powder into aclosed corner... Then the paint needs to stay but the air has to have a way out of the corner. your trying to force your spray by the air that is trying to escape. so to get paint into a hard area just paint right next to it and never pont directly into it...or so quick little passes over it and stay a little farthur away so the powder slows dont before it reaches the area... The powder wants to go into those areas but your not
letting it.
We wash and phosphate the tanks. So they have to go in the oven to dry. It's much quicker to hit these spots while hot than to wait for them to cool and spray that way. I agree on your spray technique though.
so once your product comes out of outgassing , you don't use Acetone ? or it's not necessary ?
great video,you said when you do wheels,you shoot front back and barrel,then you let it cool down and shoot front again? PS:do you tape off back of wheel anymore where lugs go?
Some times I do sometimes I don't. Depends on vehicle. It's prob a good idea to always tape off, not due to worries of wheel falling off but to make sure the wheel mounts square to hub.
Very useful info! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
the issue I recently had with hot flocking it just how easy it is to put down a thicker layer than you mean to. i went too much and i got drips and runs! didn't realize that was even possible. lmao
Merci
For hot flocking, do you keep things charged? You know, parts grounded and gun powered. So, everything is as how powder-coating is normally applied, except the part is hot?
Yup
It's completely dependent on the part, desired finish and the equipment when painting hot
love the channel name. lol
Can you do a black set of wheels??? Kicks my ass every time
I can, just think it's boring haha I do them all the time....lol
@@RightNowPowderCoating on Facebook pages that seems to be the simplest thing to do yet the one that seems to give the most trouble to most folks... Myself included.
@@dieselwilson9767 Yeah, wheels are actually probably one of the hardest things to coat and do it right everytime.
Would love to see a motorcycle frame done.
Should have one to do soon!
I'm the best at hot flocking clear
Thats a hard one to do that way too. It would be fun to do a video on hot flocking clear with too much and too little.