Powder Coating Curing Methods Tested - Oven vs Heat Lamp
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ส.ค. 2020
- I did my best to scientifically test the different methods of curing powder that were at my disposal. I hope you guys find this useful and can learn from it.
- ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
The two tests used ,for testing powder coating , in the industry is MEK ( Methyl Ethyl Ketone ) rub test and cross hatch. The MEK tests will test the cure of the powder and cross hatch would test the adhesion. If powder coating passes these two simple tests you know everything is good. MEK is a solvent and is the only solvent to test powder . You would choose a spot on a panel of equivalent thickness, preferably and not on the job you doing , You would dip a cloth rag on your finger into the MEK and while maintaining its wetness by dipping , you would begin to count off the rubs. You need 60 rubs without going through the coating back to the substrate. I have seen tests done where the coating is so under cured that it rubbed through to metal within 4 rubs. If you go through the coating you will know that the part has not been in the oven long enough or had sufficient heat.
Cross hatch is done by using a blade and cutting through the coating a series of 5 cuts 1mm apart and about 2cm long and then cutting transversely through the previous 5 cuts , in the opposite direction, essentially leaving 25 x 1mm squares cut through to the substrate . Then you would overlay these squares with a good sticky tape ( like packaging tape NOT masking tape) . By using a single even stroke remove the tape . none of the 1millimetre squares should be removed wholly or in part . Should these have been removed the adhesion has failed and there are a multitude of reasons for this . like oil, dust rust mill scale or even thick phosphates and so on, on the surface , or even curing ( which can be checked with MEK) . Perhaps i should do a youtube on these tests.
Please remember that powder coating is a coating and not an armor plate although it is a very durable coating it is not designed to be ground with wire or chisels , screwdrivers , hammers and the like
I have been in the industry as a technical salesperson for 27 years.
Very informal and knowledgeable I appreciate that response. Helps novices trying to learn (such as myself) good ways to test your work and make sure it's as durable as possible.
Alan would spare some suggestions on making an infrared oven
@@Notogenocide Are you looking for an infrared boost on a tunnel or camel back oven or a full infrared oven like a batch oven or straight through oven.
Infrared gas with polished reflectors are good but then it does become difficult to measure your curing capabilities . You would have to give me some more information on what your requirements are.
From an engineering point of view you should remake the box "oven" with the reflective side on the inside. The reflective side is designed to insulate against radiation, which is the type of heat the IR heater you are using produces. This will keep more of the heat inside of the box and allow you to heat up parts faster. Also, most people don't realize that aluminum foil has two different sides on it, one side is dull and the other is reflective. When using it to insulate you should put the reflective side against the heat source. The same goes if you are trying to keep something cool (think exhaust heat shield).
Thumbs up for using a face shield when using an angle grinder. I require all of our shop guys to use one with an angle grinder regardless of the type of wheel in use.
All in all I enjoyed the well thought out and researched video and have subscribed for more!
yes, also when you are smoking dope off of tinfoil you are supposed to put the drugs on the dull side and the flame to the shiney side. I suppose the same goes for everything when it comes to tinfoil hahaha
Beat me to it, @laptopgeek0991! Yes! What he said! A not insignificant portion of your heat radiation is being lost (or rather, not being used to it's full potential)!
@@nlceguy, one side of the foil isn’t any different than the other.
The manufacturing process just leaves the sheen, but there is zero difference in reflectivity.
I was thinking the same thing, but also might try aluminum sheet metal with the fiberglass panels attached to the aluminum sheets. You definitely need the reflective surface towards the part and heat lamp to get maximum heat.
Thank you..
A big thank you for your sincere effort to test this out.
From the UK, Great video, like your experiments to find the best process for you.
Owned a powder coating company for 30 years.
Powder coating basically "cures" in 3 stages
1. the powder coat will melt and gloss off
2. the substrate, steel in this case, has to come up to the cure temperature of the powder being used.
The cure temperature is usually given by the by the powder manufacturer, they do differ.
3. When the steel part and powder coating is up to the cure temperature, this is when the actual cure
process begins, and is fused onto the substrate. leave in the oven, at the cure temperature, for a
specific time to complete the cure/fusion process. The cure temperature and cure time defined by
the powder manufacturer.
Remove from oven and let air cool.
Many powder coaters use epoxy power, which is fine, but generally for indoor use.
For your application, a polyester powder would be suitable. It has better weathering and UV resistance.
Also has better abrasion resistance, is more "flexible" than epoxy.
Try putting the shiny side of the insulation board facing inside the oven. Infra red heat is a relatively low wave form, which will rebound back off the silver shiny side. This will give you quicker heat up time to the cure temperature and better even heat on the part in the oven.
Hope this helps, good luck.
how relevant is the amount of powder on the item? Does a thicker coat change anything?
@@deangraves908 Generally the powder manufacturers will recommend the thickness required for a particular powder. 80 to 90 microns is typical, but can vary.
Sometimes a thick coating above those recommendations makes the cured coating strength greater than the adhesion strength to the substrate, which can make the coating liable to chipping if it gets
a “ Knock”
@@graham7176 is there a specific way to accurately measure the amount of powder on your material or just one of those "eye ball it" situations. I am just getting in to all this and I have no idea what I'm really doing 😂
@@deangraves908 Unfortunately the only way to find out the thickness of a powder coating is to measure it with a coating thickness gauge. There are a few types, try googling “powder coating thickness gauges” for sale.
It is the cured thickness which the important issue.
@@deangraves908 my company powder coated between 5 to 6 tonnes of steel product per day, if you need any further information, I would be happy to help.
Good luck.
Your efforts for this video and the powder coating gun video are so very appreciated! I have been seriously considering the purchase of a system and these videos have guided me in my decision making. Thank you sooo very much!!
Will definitely be using the box method thank you for all the work put into these videos !
Just cut up 2 or 3 electric ovens (people give them away) to make one big oven it’s easy. I’ve done it bunch for friends etc. Best is when you find double ovens but just get 2 that are close to same size. It’s easy. I have a double wall mount waiting for a conversion in my shop. People will literally pay for them done. Also if ya don’t wanna cut up ovens a wood or steel frame oven with off shelf oven heating element and electronics if your handy works well. You can just make a box for your infrared lamp and you will be good.
Didn’t read any comments but I was just going to give you some info for future reference. The infrared temp gun you use when checking your hand it is checking skin temperature and not body temperature. Your skin will be much cooler than internal body temp. Also any high reflective surface will need a flat or matte finish added for an accurate temperature. There are calculations that can be made based on an item’s emissivity to get a better reading. Excellent video by the way
Good job on the testing, I liked your toaster o en and home made insulated box. That was cool to see how well it performed.
I don’t subscribe unless I really enjoy a creators content. I don’t think I’ve ever subbed after one video. Thank you for the amazing content. No senseless ranting, stupid music, or pointless self marketing. Really enjoyed the video
LOL. Thanks Andrew. I never know when I make these silly videos if they'll do well, or just disappear into the abyss of TH-cam after getting 300 views never to be seen again.
Thanks for the video. I am building an old chevy truck and I have been looking for that steering wheel on your wall. It is a really cool piece!
Thanks mate really enjoying them from Australia , great workshop as well
Regards Bob
The different textures and colors is probably from different flow out from different cure times or improper curing. But the middle one looks right.... Thanks for sharing!
I don’t need a permanent oven and have limited space. I have made a dry stacked cement block oven with duct board and had great results when doing wheels, intake manifolds and such. I have a collapsible oven made of three layers of duct board. Powder coating is very forgiving!
Well done, pal, I have definitely learned something from your video. 👍, I am planning to do some powder coating myself.
Thanks so much for good honest info. I really enjoy your video style, no heavy metal background music or lame attempts at standup comedy. Thanks bro.
LOL. What an honest comment. Glad to hear you enjoyed my work! Thanks.
Just found your channel and i like the content. Youve got a great attitude, and approach to trying to get an end result
Thanks for the video
Regards Stuart
What if you made the box with the silver side in to reflect the heat.
Mylar emergency blankets would definitely help I’d bet. They’re much cheaper than rolls of Mylar and work well for reflecting any type of light
Wear a leather apron too, those wires can fly through a pair of Levi’s & lodge in a scrotum- ask me how come I’m so sure of that.
I was going to say the same thing
@sapper_5126 although mylar is generally fireproof it can begin to melt around 350-400 degrees which is a big no go for powder coating curing temps
The reason your thermometer read wrongly on the aluminium is that aluminium has very low infrared emissivity, however it is very reflective, so the home made box would actually have worked better using the aluminium foil side on the inside, not outside. The heat would have been reflected back from the inside of the box.
Very interesting testing and I really believe your results are genuine. I now see the curing importance Thank You 👍
Great video, I want to do some DIY powder coating for the first time and need to learn the lowest cost and easiest way into it. I'm renovating a powder coated bike frame, so your videos have been great to learn some entry level methods.
If that insulation has an aluminium foil coating, then the emissivity is very low, so the IR thermometer will not read anywhere near the correct temperature.
I guess the adhesion test with the wire wheel shows that the metal itself got up to temperature. I.e. it's easier to heat the powder coat to melt it, without getting the metal hot enough for it to properly adhere. A longer time in the toaster oven would have improved the result I guess.
Good video. Love the Cougar banner! I would have put the metal coated side on the inside of the box. At very least to reflect the light back in instead of the black absorbing it.
I think it wud have also been nice to see a professionally coated component as a comparison to the DIY options.
That temporary oven is a good idea. Think I may try that to do a bicycle frame.
I am so happy that I came to this video, I was about to spend like $1400 on a box when I could’ve spent $200 on a lamp and 50 bucks on materials. This is awesome
Can you tell me what do you call the infrared light i am looking for it on internet but cant find it anywhere, i need it for paint curing
@@Pnkjprajapaticuring lamp
That bar heater looks like you could rotate the two elements so that they point at each other. Do that and put the part between then. I’m sure that would cure nicely.
Great comparison.
Like you I want to do some parts but dont want to have stuff taking up space in my 2 car garage / workshop when not in use.
Cheers
I just realized, the engineer below is right, you made a slight blunder, lol you will get much better results with the "reflective side pointing inwards" on the inside so it can reflect the heat on the parts. Fantastic idea however ! good job.
I'm new here and that was a good test & on the insulation box it you put some that metal tape over the insulation where you cut it then it won't burn ! Try that test with your light setup inside the box & have another piece of insulation to close the box fully so it holds the heat better and you cab get the temp lot higher ! my brother made one from a couple 4x8 sheets stuff like that so he could do stuff up to 3'6" and it works great oh he used 2 coils from electric oven and set it up like turning your oven to broil ! He ended up getting lot work for a custom body shop & does engines & transmissions and decided he is going make a larger box with 4 coils in it for doing fenders & smaller hoods ! Anything that fits in a 4'x4'x8'
thank you brother please continue making videos
To check the temperature of powder coated parts in your oven, hang a test piece of un-coated steel having the same thickness as the powder coated part, near the coated part.
Take temperature readings from the un-coated test piece. (preferably a test piece having a flat surface)
Can you tell me what do you call the infrared light i am looking for it on internet but cant find it any where
Good information about wearing safety glasses and a face shield while using a wire wheel on your angle grinder. Another good piece of advice you should take is to replace an old wire wheel as they will start to loose wire more frequently as they ware out this becoming increasingly dangerous! In addition, you should put the guard back on your grinder. Set the example to your viewers to work safely. You should also keep your neck covered as those little wires or hard for a surgeon to extract from your jugular vein. People have died from these types of injuries!
HI ya Ian , I ordered the TC 500 M , can't wait to give the run through , your Nova frame cutouts were cool , gonna be a slick machine , one day , lol .
I hope I'm not too old to drive when the damn thing is done. Thanks for the business!
10:00 Yes, the surface type makes a difference in the reading because of the emissivity.
Thanks for information on coating. What kind of insulation is that? Thanks.
Interesting and well-made video, thanks! I think a shiny metal part in front of the i.r. lamp won't absorb much heat, but once you coat it with powder it soaks up the heat much better. I'm sure that that (combined with the limitations of the thermometer on shiny surfaces) explains the disappointing temperatures you're seeing with uncoated parts. Personally I'd keep the d.i.y oven silver on the outside, I'd guess the less reflective interior will heat up and heat the air inside to a higher temperature than a silver interior would, providing there aren't too many gaps to let the hot air leak out. Sorry about the long comment : /
Yes, Radiant infrared needs reflective on side. Repeat test with inside lined, then test temperature. Bet it will be higher. Copper color is said to be more ir reflective than silver color.
Hey man, I appreciate the efforts in making the video but I would tell you that your Box would work a ton better if you had it reversed and had the reflective side inwards. The part would get a lot hotter and it would be a lot more of an even temperature on the backside then the current way.
Also going back and forth with the wire wheel, it’s possible that since u have to slow the motion down as u get ready to change directions so it’s going thru more rpm’s over the end two pieces as compared to the center piece. The wire wheel is spending the least time on the middle piece since the motion is still at its quickest. Idk. Just a thought, I could be wrong
Do you have additional details on the fiberglass board used for the oven box. The standard duct board is only rated to 250 degrees. There are medium and high temp boards for industrial applications, but these seem very hard to find. My local supply house didn't have them. What brand? Johns Manville? other?
I have this heat lamp and it is prone to melting the switch on the lamp head. It works great, but you really need to watch out for over heating it as it will do that super easy.
Wow, great test. Right on the money!!!!!!!!!!!!! like and subscribe for sure, this guy is practical.
Thanks for the sub! You are correct about the reflective side. No idea why that didn't seem obvious to me at the time.
Thanks.
Cool bideo. 😎 Im just a little concerned that that box looks like it might be the most dangerous as it looks like it can catch fire 🔥, maybe im wtong just curious. Nice experiment i thoroughly enjoyed it. 😎
is there a reason you didnt put the reflective side of the fiber board towards the inside of the oven box? I would expect it to work like the foil experiment.
If you view the video closely the no 3 plare also had a richer baked finish to the colour
With regards to Infrared Thermometer. Read up on emissivity. Each surface has a different value from 0.1 (100% reflective) to 1.0 (Perfect absorption). You set your handheld on a value BEFORE you measure, then you get a more accurate temp. That foils was about 0.3.
do you have a link where to get the heat lamp
You only have 2000' of man space??? Hell were happy with 600' (if we have that much) Looks like your doing with your 67 what i plan on mine. God vid tho you actually answered some questions for me. Thanks
i used one of them infared thermo and used to find anything reflective gave an incorrect reading,maybe once they gloss over? point it inside the tubing
My first thought was that you should have the reflective surface on the inside of the box. However, If the reflective side of your box is only rated to 150 degrees, I’d suggest leaving it on the outside, and putting aluminum foil on the inside of the box, shiny side facing the heat source. Aluminum foil will easily withstand 400 degrees, and you get the best of both worlds.
Have you tried turning the heaters facing each other with the coated piece hanging in the middle?
Build the oven with the reflection material inside. Primer helps with adhesion don't blow the parts it causes static hence dirt . Sweat the parts with a prep solvent with antistatic additives then tack rag. Good luck.
Did you have to turn the part in your homemade oven, like you did with the lamp without the oven? Or did your homemade oven cure both sides on its own?
Wonderful channel. Got a question for you. I want to powdercoat railing sections and smaller gates. I wondering if I could use a heat lamp like what you have and just move it along my railings? Would it even be cost effective?
Funny you ask. In this video below we test my ability to powder coat a part of infinite length
th-cam.com/video/J4WkhAuVdQY/w-d-xo.html
About your comment about the metal going into your skin and you wouldn't want to know what it would do to your eye. My husband actually had some of that going to his eye and tell you like you don't feel it go in at all and it's hard to see the metal in there, but the next day it bugged the hell of him and his eye got red like he had pink eye or something. He actually pulled the shards out of his eye with tweezers and mirror.
"this little toaster oven I ganked from my mother in law" 💀💀💀
Hi,
very good!
have you a link for the lamps?
Thanks.
Try to make another box like the one you made only use heat guns through holes on all four corners. Slightly tilt to where it creates a vortex. I've always wanted to see the temperature difference on that.
This was very interesting; really enjoyed it. Have you tried the low temp curing powder that is said only requires temp as low as 266°F for 10 min after they reach temp, and are better suited to infrared curing?
One individual has already mentioned about polyester being more resistant to UV fade. Coatings are delineated based on weathering metrics from actual locations that experience high levels of UV exposure. In the US , South Florida and to a lesser extent central Arizona are most commonly used. Too much to go into here, but you can easily find more on the above in Google. I don't want to bore you or others with a longer comment.👍
got a link for this powder ?!?!?
Great video! Thanks. Question....What kind of sand blaster is that you have and size of air compressor. Appreciate your response.
It's the REPP70. Link below. I also use a 34 CFM 10 Hp air compressor. I used to use a 5 Hp 17 CFM unit, and that wasn't anywhere near enough air to blast efficiently.
www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/sand-blast-equipment-c-327_501/sand-blast-cabinets-c-327_501_502/redline-repp70-clamshell-pressure-pot-abrasive-blast-cabinet-p-2421
Maybe try a piece of 26ga sheet metal ductwork and insulate on outside and try that might gain a few degrees internally with light set up
Your homemade oven would work a lot better if you had used the foil side inside rather than the insulate side or used two layers, insulation to insulation. If you're going to leave the box together then using a 45° angle would reflect the light more back at it. Also if you made it larger so that you can bring the light up and then have a front section on it to reflect back in would work well.
Where you get that ir light?
yeah i had the same idea with the box after watching your first video. i wonder ... maybe it works even better if you use some reflective material (e.g. aluminum foil) inside the box as well? courious to see whether this will also work with long items (bicycle frame) where the lamp has to be moved during the process.
found some paper about this. seems like a non-polished metal plate would still reflect IR but not "visible" light due to the longer wave length. have to play with this.
@@oefzdegoeggl my ir guru engineer says copper color won his ir reflective tests.
Yes, those infrared thermometers don't work that well pointed at a shiny surface. Your hand is probably pretty close to 88-92 degrees, inside your mouth would be 98-99. As far as getting the temp on the back of that shiny 'oven' point it at the black lettering on that shiny surface.
Wonder if you could somehow use a small propane barbecue in a steel filing cabinet outdoors of course
Guess everybody already commented on it, but my first thought when I saw your oven was... "why the reflector on the outside?"
Doh!
What brand and rating infrared heat lamps are those?
what are the leaves to make the box. Thank you
HI, JUST WANT DO THE SAME AS YOU BUT WITH 17 INCH RIM WITH BLUE POWDER COATING. WHISH LAMP ARE YOU USING???
Should have put the reflective side facing in to better reflect the heat. Great job though
Always start your time after the powder runs and your part should be at temp for some company’s
👍
I missed your blast Media crushed glass and ? Thanks
Did the HVAC company tell you to put the shiny side out?
Did you consider putting foil in the inside to better reflect the heat?
Ideally, I would think that fully enclosing the heat lamp INSIDE the box, shiny side in, would give you even better results. Same idea as a household oven...reduce your heat loss to near zero.
Unless he specified to the company what he wanted to achieve with that insulating board(referred to as 'duct board in the trade), they would likely advise him that the foil goes to the outside. This board is used to make distribution boxes in an attic or loft for the conditioned air; either trying to keep it cool in the summer or warm in the winter. The thickness of the ductboard determines where it could be used; 1" ductboard would be used between the conditioned spaces(depending where in the world you are and the insulating properties of the building) e.g. above the ceiling and between the floor above. The thicker ductboard would be used in an unconditioned space. Unless specifically requested, you'll get the ductboard where the foil side is not intended for high heat.
You're on the right track. See below for how to get the rest of the way there.
As pointed out by @laptopgeek0991, your insulation panels were backwards, brother. Shiny side goes IN.
But more than that: You have an INFRARED heat source.
The way an infrared space heater, for instance, works is it directs its emitted radiation - generally within a wavelength of 7-12 microns - into the target object (don't get excited by my use of the word "radiation" here; this is the same way the SUN warms up an object. You yourself emit infrared radiation... at any object colder than yourself. Along with every other object warmer than Absolute Zero).
The takeaway here is twofold:
1. The target object will absorb the heat. But since it's the only object in the "oven", it's the ONLY thing that does. If you added an object that had good thermal transfer properties (good at soaking up and spitting back out heat) - say a plate of iron or asphalt, or a big shard of terracotta pottery - also in the "oven" but BEHIND the object then that object would ALSO get warm, AS WELL AS RADIATE THAT HEAT BACK OUT. So say you get yourself a half of a terracotta pot (broken pots aren't generally very pricy) - or hell: a big cast iron griddle! - and put it behind the object. Now say you let it "pre-heat" for 20-30 minutes or so before putting in the part. I suspect you'll be surprised how much additional heat energy gets poured into the (colder) part. Plus you'd get a more even "surround" heat. Because your lamp is getting its energy from a source outside the system - the electrical grid - it has "unlimited ammo". It'll KEEP pouring in heat. What limits you here is A) Your insulation, and B) the target's ability to absorb said heat.
2. Both the shape and the material of the object you're trying to cure has an enormous impact on the effectiveness here. Some objects - say aluminum - shed heat like mad. Iron loves heat, and soaks it right up. In the case of the larger part you did at the very end, the BACKSIDE of said part was acting as a heatsink. The "just hang it out in front" method was the worst choice to test that. Your homemade oven, however, that (esp. with the foil facing the correct direction) is reflecting all that heat right back to the object's backside would have yielded similar results to your flat pieces of steel. You wanna see that piece hit 350? slap a griddle behind it and face that foil IN.
One more physics point here: heat rises, right? So imagine you're trying to fill that space with a gas that's lighter than air, like helium. With the oven's opening (its gap in its insulative properties) facing sideways, as that gas builds up it "leaks" out the side. If you rotated the entire arrangement 90 degrees, you'd trap a significant portion of the heat... THATS BEING RADIATED FROM THE OBJECTS INSIDE. Don't underestimate the effectiveness of your oven, homemade or not. Indeed, you can BUY IR ovens FOR COOKING (super energy-efficient and don't dry out food as much). The issue here is simply one of basic insulative efficiency. If you sealed those lights INSIDE that box (DO NOT DO THIS) with some radiant sources like iron or rock, I'd be astounded if SOMETHING in there didn't catch fire (my guess would be the lights themselves). A normal pop-up bread toaster will melt its way out if you insulate well enough and are prepared to wait.
Finally, a critical note here: unlike an oven, IR heat doesn't move the air around beyond basic convection currents generated in the air where the hot and cold air "meets". Ovens are designed to circulate the air (note the heating elements are above and/or below). Your box is not. All this means in practice is that you're not cooking off any water vapor in the air. That is, your box won't dehumidify the ambient air. I don't know diddly about powder coating, nor do i know where you live (though I'm guessing Texas?), but if you happen to be somewhere closer to, say, Louisiana, or Alabama, the time of year will very likely impact the performance here, in that the humidity inside your jury-rigged furnace won't be cooked off like it is inside a true oven. You're more likely to create a sauna condition than an arid desert one. I dunno if that impacts powder coating, but I cannot imagine it does not.
SOURCE: I'm an Engineer and Product Designer. More importantly, I'm a hardcore nerd. Humor me here.
Oh! And one more thing: an IR thermometer SHOULD read low on the skin of your hand. It's because it's not calibrated to read that. The emissivity coefficient of human skin ranges from 0.99 (clean skin) to ~0.725 (sweaty, or skin with lotion of some kind). The closer that is to 1, the "easier" it is to get a reading. Human skin SUCKS for accuracy here. Additionally, ever notice how the medical thermometers are used at point blank? AND they're used on your forehead, or your inner ear, or inner thigh? Your hand's at the very edge of your circulation. It's a terrible measure of your body temp.
Moreover, that looks like a General IRT207 IR Thermometer. Those have an 8:1 distance-to-spot (D:S) this means it's sampling an AVERAGE temperature of one unit for every 8 away it is (so if you're 16 inches away from your target, it samples a two-inch spot). Those (really, almost all) IR thermometers have their emissivity calibrated at 0.95 (which you can see above is often WAY outta range for human skin). And, unless you have a fairly high-end one (Klein, Southwire), it's FIXED at 0.95 (the pricier ones you can tweak, not that you'd ever care to in most cases).
Don't assume your readings are off. They're not. They're pretty close to what I'd expect. My Klein says I'm dead right now, if I shoot it at my foot. :)
Dear nerd. Stay tuned! You bring up a lot of good points that I cannot argue. A lot of folks have commented that they want to see me attempt to cure a part using a heat gun. We're about to see what happens.
What if you Make one out the burners off a propane grill ??
The size of the parts matters when it comes to how hot it gets while curing it, I believe the part u used on the previous video was way bigger then this one
You built the box backwards. Silver side inside would have bumped up the reflective heat as well. I'd put some 45°'s in the corners as well...
IR heat systems are used in the field on large commercial/industrial projects. They are powerful and used in numbers to provide the necessary temperatures. Unfortunately I see that you, like virtually ALL the TH-cam powder coaters, don't use a primer coat, epoxy for aluminum or zinc rich epoxy for ferrous metals. Unless the powder manufacturer specifically states to NOT use a primer coat, the very best and most durable finishes will be with a primer coat.
Also, the curing time starts when the part reaches curing temperature, not when it goes in the "oven".
Does anyone know how bad the fumes are for open curing using these infared heaters ?
What type of powder? Thermoset or thermoplastic?
LoL - "...of manspace..." - love it
Thanks. Here's my shop tour video.
th-cam.com/video/B41ZfdKTKck/w-d-xo.html
You should put the reflective side on the inside.
What is see you’re doing wrong is you don’t start the time till you see the powder getting glossy. All powder coating is done this way, so redo all your test don’t start the timer till you start to see the parts get glossy. The over should of did the absolute best if you did it right, your homemade box also. I’ve done the box like you only way bigger, I just used two heat guns. Once the parts start to gloss over started the timer.
I had a piece of wire wheel go through my lip, iinto my gum and stop on the bottom of my tooth at the root. Hurt tooth bad
What lamps are those?
Going side to side with the grinder, the end parts get 2x the wear.
the reflective surface should have been to the inside. The black absorbes IR.
Put a piece of black tape on shiny surface to measure temp
You need to build a enclosed box and put one of those infrared lights on each side
What heat lamp are those??????
I'm sure 100 people already said it Red, I think your box is built inside out. But you're cleaver, that gets comments and that's as good as likes isn't it.
You can’t judge durability like this. No matter how it’s cooked means nothing. If the parts are cured per application guide of the powder by “pmt” part metal temperature, mill thickness is correct & prep work is proper...you will have best durability.
exactly,part must come up to temp required then bake for proper time,this makes your test useless
You seemed to have missed the concept of this material you are using with the reflective aluminum. In order to maximize the heat retention the reflective material should be INSIDE the box not the outside. The product you are using is to keep air conditioning ductwork cool when this product is used to enclose exterior ductwork.
you could by a used kitchen oven .
I think of you build that oven box a little bigger so the heat lamp fits inside.
Watching your videos I think I could do it.
I probably shoulda thought of that...
@@RedlineStands Totally using some of your ideas for a project coming my way. As a professional painter, I'm tired of it. Need to try something else!
box should have the reflective silver on the inside.
I have a question about your heat lamp, I bought one that has a power supply rated at 220 volts but the end that plugs in goes to a 120 volt outlet and I'm not sure if the power supply is an up stepper or if it needs 220 volts directly
Dunno man. I've always plugged mine directly into a 110 outlet and never given it a 2nd thought.
@@RedlineStands I ended up finding out that the power cord is upgradeable to a 220 volt plug. Thanks for the reply though! Your videos are inspirational
Can you tell me what do you call the infrared light i am looking for it on internet but cant find it anywhere, i need it for paint curing
@@MAS68saxophone Can you tell me what do you call the infrared light i am looking for it on internet but cant find it anywhere, i need it for paint curing
@@Pnkjprajapati you can find them under powder coating infrared curing lamp :)
Your suppose to start your time once the powder begins to flow and is at the recommended temp per the powder instructions....
Right...? But... SCIENCE!
Actually most powder will flow at 250 -275 . The part needs to be at cure temp before you start the timer.