I used this video as a template for how to change the spark plugs on my ‘13 Outback 3.6R that just hit 60K miles. I found the video to be immensely helpful, also with preparing for the job by getting the required tools. In my case just the short extensions, which made the work fairly straightforward and simple. I appreciate all your videos on the EZ36D, so thank you!
Won't admit how many times I watched this. Finally decided to do it. Success! Note: Since Snap On truck doesn't stop at a DIY house, I will say Koken spark plug socket and extensions were the best! Take a mental break before touching that rear drivers side plug - you'll need the energy and patience for sure. Long live the internet - thanks Mr. Subaru.
Thanks for the video, the only tricky part for me was removing the back coil on the driver side, I had to disconnect it and move the wire to the rear to be able to take it out. Very helpful! We want more 3.6 tutorials :)
My tip: if you're doing the 2015-2019 models, start on the driver side rear plug, it's the hardest one to access and if you leave it for last it's going to be more painful than if you do it first. I also found it easier to unclip the lead from the coil packs and remove the coil packs entirely. My one gripe is why the hell is Subaru using so many bolts to hold the battery carriage on these? 6 bolts! The two side mount bolts are nearly impossible to get out unless you're under the car and if you have a ratcheting wrench this is going to come in really handy for those.
100% regarding the side mount battery carriage bolts. Once I pulled those things out they went straight to the trash. I never want to mess with those two bolts again, four is plenty.
Argree completly, Just did mine. It took me around 5 hours in front of my apartment. 15' outback 137,867 miles. thanks for all your videos, they helped me in buying my first Subaru
Thank you for this video. I changed plugs in my Legacy 3.6 by carefully writing down the steps in this tutorial. I then carefully followed them. The battery tray with its numerous bolts holding it down was a bit of a challenge. I was too lazy to remove the engine bottom cover; however I used a extension ratcheting socket after using an offset to break the bolts loose where the tray attaches to the frame. Next time I change the oil I will put those two bolts in place. The main reason for doing this was to not have to remove the tray again if there was some issue with my spark plugs/coils. Everything worked great however. I did need to use a smaller ratchet for spark plug removal in conjunction with 1" extensions and I removed the coils on the driver's side in order to get more room.
Thanks to this helpful guide, I just did the plugs on on my 2017 Legacy 3.6R. My vehicle appears to have a slightly different battery tray, because I also had to remove the metal tray under the plastic one to gain access to the coils, and there are two side-mounted fasteners that I cursed and swore at a lot, but later discovered they're easy to get from underneath. I also had the hardest time with the back plug on the driver side, but overall it wasn't as scary as it looks.
Best diy video. Paid the dealer for the first change but would have tackled it myself if this video was available 6 years ago. Getting ready to do the second change myself next week. We really need a video on changing the starter on a 2010 outback 3.6r. Mine hangs up when cold and needs cleaned and greased. That bottom nut is the issue. Thanks
2019 Subaru Outback 3.6R Limited. 60K miles. Job took about 2 1/2 hours. Side bolts for battery tray and the driver's side rear plug were the most challenging part of the job. Total success. Thank you for the video. I saved some bucks doing the work myself.
If you’re willing to say, how has your 3.6R limited help up since your original comment ?? I am very interested in finding a 2015-2019 3.6r outback because of the engine and the character of the interior, and I found a great on CPO at 25k miles good service record, I’ve heard both sides of the story. These are either amazing and reliable as long as you take care of them, and I’ve heard stories of this generation having the transmisión lock on them, or engine is leaking at 60-70k miles. Granted I hear more good stories than not so I’m not too scared, but just curious how yours has held up?? If you respond thanks :) if not no worries ❤
Follow up... new plugs, cleaned throttle body, a better hose clamp leading into the intake and a battery replacement alleviated the problem.. no transmission issues. Work performed by myself for very little money. I hope this helps someone else.
Mate I’m getting similar issues on my Aussie ‘09 3.6R Outback - intermittently jerking under moderate load. Was planning to do the same that you’ve done. Glad it worked for you, we’ll see if I have any luck!🤞🏼
@@hunndy yeah really well. The jerking/miss has been resolved now. The plugs looked worn when I pulled them, and I suspect they weren’t changed at 210K like they were supposed to. I changed them at 230K so they’ve earned their retirement! Also cleaned the MAF sensor and the (filthy) throttle body.
Thanks for all of the great videos. I just completed this and came back to see how I did in comparison. For a non-pro wrench, I'd say ok. Much less time than several quotes I received. I don't remember ever having them done(maybe 60k?) and got the changed at 145k. There was obvious loss of power and poor fuel economy. The difference is very evident. O² sensors are next! But four at once is going to hurt. I removed the coils completely and wiped the boot down with some silicone lube on a cloth. DE grease on the harness clip. Smidge of high temperature anti-sieze on the plug threads. They were quite rough to back out. Smooth as silk to reinstall. I found the drivers side was easier than the passengers, but it was the first time doing it on a Subaru.
I replaced spark plugs on my 2005 Subaru Legacy BP5 along with this video. The entire procedure is not exactly the same with this engine tho, just slightly different. I found there was some engine oil in all the spark plug holes. I guess the my head gasket might blown up. Not a good sign. Ugh!~# As always, I really appreciate your video , will go ahead watching the videos of your channel , I learned so much from your tutorials and have so much fun. Thank you again.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you for that , I'll check that out whether I could replace it by myself otherwise I'll have to find a local work shop to do this job. Thank you. Have a great day.
First of all thank you sir for uploading this. My wife’s 2011 3.6 had 2 misfire codes now the transmission jerks intermittently (especially up hill). The dealership where we bought it new quoted a new transmission was needed due to “a bad main bearing”?! I’m thinking this is a rouse. 181k and the plugs need changing again. Hoping it’s that or an intake gasket leak. I’ll be leveraging this video to do it. Thank you again sir.
holio ... Absolutely.. It was nothing more than a battery replacement. The car would start however there apparently wasn’t enough power in it to run the operational electronics correctly which impacted the shifting of the transmission. Proudly, I was able to figure this out myself a few days after this post. That was 7 months ago and the vehicle has performed perfectly since the replacement.. Perfectly. This is why I will take time that I can ill afford to spare to diagnose and repair my own car if at all possible. Great vehicle...blood sucking dealership. They will never again get my business and I tell everyone I know, not to go there.
Awesome video. 1. The snap on FX1 extension is usually available used on the E'bay and is identified as both 1 OR 1.5". They are the same and vital. 2. Agree with "start on the drivers side rear". That coil pack is easier to handle with the wire disconnected, bolt rotated UP and slide the pack forward. 4. Anyone who says they did this in 1.5 hours is either a liar, or they have girl hands, or they are a liar with girl hands.
Just did the plugs at 100k miles on wife’s 2012 Outback 3.6r.I drove the car up on ramps.Removed the the center splash shield.Replaced the plugs from underneath on a creeper.But I am lazy and have a cushy creeper.
Can you get to all 6 from under there by just removing the guard? My wife has the exact same car and I was contemplating doing this myself or taking it to the dealer.
Spacecadet you are going to get different opinions on doing it from the top or the bottem.The car likes to climb the ramps because of the all wheel drive.Its easier on my bad back to lay on my creeper.I cut a piece of 3/8 fuel line to use to start to plugs with my fingers.You don’t have to touch any parts on top.I would bet the Subaru dealer techs put the car on a rack and do it from the bottem.The only problem is those push pins break that they use to hold all the plastic on .
My Outback is a 2010. Once you've mastered spark plug changing, advance yourself to changing a headlight bulb. Simple? Not with a Subaru! You have to go up through the wheel well and feel your way through it. Big bucks for mechanics on that job.
TORQUE specs. According to this video torque the plugs to 15.5 Ft-lbs (21 Nm) and the coil bolt to 11.8 Ft-lbs (16 Nm). Hope I saved you from scrolling through the video. Note: I didn't verify these numbers elsewhere.
Subaru dealer quoted me for $669 to replace spark plugs for my 2015 Legacy 3.6R. I think I'm gonna give it a try changing it myself. My Honda is so much easier to replace spark plugs.
You make all the hard work look feasible for us mortals. Question, when you took off the back one on the passenger side, by looking at your hand position it looked as if you were on top of the engine. Did you climb in? Thanks for all your videos!
No. For the rears I usually reach around the back of the head from above though. Makes it easier to get out. Just leaned on it. Haha. You're welcome. Glad you enjoy the videos. 👍🏻
I have a 2016 Outback and used this video to replace my spark plugs, thank you!Everything went great. However I drove it shortly after I finished and my car was slow to accelerate. Spark plugs are from Subaru and I am not sure what it could be. Please help 😬
@@MrSubaru1387 I contacted snap on and the rep I spoke with could not find the part. If you or anyone else has the number I would appreciate. Don't want to start without the right tools. Thanks
This is gonna come in handy, just hit 60K AND I gotta replace the ignition coil on cyl.5. It went out some time back and I got a super cheapo coil instead of oem or performance. I can feel it being weird.
16:14 lol that was risky as you were barely in the extension with the torque wrench, was waiting for it to slip and pop out as you're tightening, could've been a knuckle buster.
It doesn't look so difficult. I would have probably done some cleanup while the parts were removed, particularly on the one battery terminal. I'm seriously considering getting a Subaru with that engine as my next vehicle, obviously a used vehicle as I don't think that engine is available in any of the current models.
Hi nice videos. I was just wondering why are you not using any anti seize on the spark plugs thread's ? And some deilecteric grease on the boots ? Thanks
Good quality video. What kind of camera? Just took my 2011 3.6R Outback in yesterday for 90k service and noticed on service report that at 60k they did not change plugs. Dealer service manager said they overlooked this? and it should be done before 100k. wtf? $850 for 90k service, I'm doing this myself. Any suggestions?
Great video! I have a 2016 Outback 3.6R. When I go to take out the battery, do I have to hook up a battery memory saver or can I get away without using one? Are there any resets I'll have to redo with contacts, channel presets, or anything else?
Yes, get the iridium, they're worth it. The fewer times you have to do this the better.Plus OEM are iridium and its generally not advisable to "downgrade".
@@SergeiTheAnarch yeah after looking into it, the 3.6 uses ngk laser iridium, which are usually a 100k mile plug but in this case they are only 60k mile plugs. I wonder if it is because Subaru recommends them being changed at 60k and the plugs are actually made for 100k, or if they are only 60k mile plugs from Ngk 🤔
@@wrf8245 I've had mine in for over 100k and when I changed them, 1 was seized to hell, 2 were running too hot, and 1 was out of spec on the gap. Still perfectly functional but I don't think I'd push it much past 100k miles.
@@SergeiTheAnarch good to know, with my luck I’d have a seized plug by the firewall were there is no wiggle room. If you have a CVT, how many miles and how is it holding up? Did you ever service it?
@@wrf8245 I have the 5EAT, I snagged a 2014 3.6 since I hate CVTs. Holding up well besides the usual wear and tear; might look into aftermarket transmission (shifts are kind of slow) since the ultimate goal is either twin turbo or twin charging it once the engine starts to need a lot of work (might as well overbuild it if I have to rebuild it). Recently replaced PCV valve and will be replacing the PCV hose since I guess it got melted at some point. Subarus generally last a long time if you follow the maintenance schedule and avoid the NA 2.5L engine.
Thanks for the instruction video! Would I be able to tell any difference before and after spark plug replacement? I don't mind paying someone to do it, but I want to make sure I can tell if they've done it or not. A dealership charged me for air filter replacement and tire rotation that they didn't perform. The service writer said it was a miscommunication, but it's hard to trust them when they did twice LoL albeit a small stuffs.
@@MrSubaru1387 I see. Sounds like I'll try replace them myself. I wish it were as simple as replacing those plugs on the 2.4L Honda :). Thanks again for the info!
Thank you for the detailed videos on how to work on Subarus!!! I own a 2014 Subaru Outback Limited Edition with a 2.5 with CVT transmission. I am planning to do my spark plugs when I do the timing belt at 100,000-103,000 miles. Will this spark plug procedure be same/similar for the 2.5 engine?
Thanks for this video. It gave me the confidence to replace the plugs myself. I was able to replace all except for the last one on the drivers side. The coil pack was a bear to get off of it and it did come off but I didn’t have enough room to move it out of the way to get to the plug. So what’s the trick to that one?
Hey man, just discovered your videos the other day. GREAT JOB! I did this same plug replacement the day before finding your video. I had searched all over tying to find the correct torque spec for the plugs and the best I could find was NGKs site which listed this plug in aluminum head at 18-21.6 left. I decided to tighten to the 21.6. The question is, is this too tight given you state they should be at 15.5 left. Basically will this cause potential harm to the head, cylinders or shorten the life of the plugs. Would you recommend taking it apart and backing off to the 15.5. I would hate to but want it to be correct and I should be quicker the second time around. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Good video. Do you know a lot about subaru power steering. I have a 2008 impreza with 190k. Been having PS issue. First started couple months after bought it. Would get tight and skip but only when i was coming/going out of a parking. So changed the pump. worked great for a month then same problem. My buddy said let's try the pump again. So we did that seems to fix but not for long. Did another new pump along with the belt and hose. worked for few months and now it's different it's leaking from behind the pump. what could my problem be?
This helped, but good lord, it took me 5 hours and dropped two small extensions that disappeared somewhere, which made the last battery side back on near impossible to get out and in, and that coil, lawwd........ There's apparently one way in and twist just right to get that one in and out.......... Yikes........
Just finished changing the spark plugs on my 2012 Subaru Outback 3.6R ..The job took me 7 hours ,, its NOT EASY ,, if you have Big Hands like me,, Yoir going to have a gery hard tme,, the Back Plug on each side took the Longest ,, if my Asian wife with small hands did not help me,, I wouldnt of completed the Job,, and you must have the right tools,you must have a 3/8” Flex Ratchet,, 2 3/8” extension,, 1 3” extension,,1 3/8 universal,,1 3/8 wobbly,,1 5/8 spark plug socket(I used a Koken 16mm Spark plug socket,, 1 pick, 1 pocket screwdriver,,1 10mm socket,,1 12mm socket,,1 10mm box end wrench,, 1 long screwdriver ,, And LOTS LOTS OF PATIENCE
MrSubaru1387 Ahhh...ok. Also, I have a quick jack. If you were doing this at work would you do it from underneath? Sorry for so many questions. You’ve been super helpful!
Hello Mr. Subaru ,, I have a 2012 Subaru Outback 3.6R,, and I need to Change the Spark Plugs ,, I have a very very important Question. On the side where the Battery is located ,, When you got to the BACK SPARK PLUG,,, Did you have A DIFFICULT TIME REMOVING the WIRING HARNESS CLIP ,, in your video it DOES NOT show you actually removing the Wiring Harness Clip.Did you remove it after You loosened the 10mm Bolt on the Coil,, And do you have BIG HANDS as I do…This is The only one that worries me…PLEASE PLEASE REPLY
I guess the 2.5 engine is about the same for the replacement of the spark plugs. I also have a 2012 Forester and shouldn't be a huge difference, right? Also, I have a humming sound that comes from the rear part of the 2014 Outback. I've heard that the wheel bearings are a weak point for Outbacks but the wheels didn't have any freeplay when I lifted the car. Do you have any videoas for that??? Thanks for your videos man...
2012 will be an FB25B rather than an EJ253. So, slightly different. Plugs go in straight from the top of the cylinder, where this goes at an angle. Check out my WRX/Turbo spark plug video. It'll be closer. To find a noisy wheel bearing, you can drive down a back road, alone, get to about 45 mph and swerve back and forth slightly. You should be able to hear which side the bad bearing is on, if you have a bad bearing that is.
Thanks for the video, I like everything, 3.6 is only European, the same I like to do everything myself, the only thing there is no manual on repair in Russian, I have to think everything myself. I changed the oil in the automatic transmission for 95.000 km., But I would like to see how you do it, if you have not changed it yet.
I wouldn't trust a shop to do this without proof. I bet there are a lot of 3.6 owners running 4 new spark plugs in cylinders 1-4 and have original plugs in cylinders 5 & 6.
On the Driver's side (USA model) the middle cable and cable nearest the firewall are the same length. I admit I didn't label them before removing them from the old coils. I see at 11:40, the one with green insulation is in the middle. Is that correct?
@@MrSubaru1387 I also have an 02 Outback with the EZ30D. 240k miles original coils. I've changed the radiator, alternator, tensioner, pulley, both front CV shafts, fuel pump. Any thing else you would recommend changing? Did you change the waterpump on yours?
I just pulled the first plug on the passenger side (2010 OB 3.6R) and its has a fair amount of oil on it. Any ideas on what may be wrong? Gaskets, PCV,...? I haven’t experienced any misfires. It seems to run very smoothly. 83k miles.
Outback H6 2015 has not much room for replace those two rear plugs.. I have to leave them alone.. for good..... I have tried from a top, from a bottom... Pulling a coil is a mission impossible for me...
How come there are no videos about knock sensors on 2015 and newer legacy 3.6 engine? everything is done only on the little 4 cyl motors.... its frustrating
You have a knock sensor issue on the 3.6? It's the same as the 2.5 in diagnosis and replacement, just you have two and they're under the intake manifold.
One question is 21nm for most spark plugs? I have NGK laser Iridium and I'm not really sure how tight it should be.. some say thread in by hand and give it 1/2 turn until gasket is snug. This option or torque wrench? Thanks
So I replaced my spark plugs last night 2010 Subaru Outback 3.6 and I just drove it around the neighborhood to let it reprogram itself and when I put it in reverse to back into the garage it acted like it wanted to stall out it is an automatic. Is this because it was not driven long enough and did not give it time to reprogram?
There is no reprogram for spark plugs.. You replace them and drive. Either there's an issue with the plugs/colis from the install, something was left disconnected, or you have an unrelated issue. If you took the battery loose, check the throttle body. It may need to be cleaned and then have an idle relearn procedure performed.
@@MrSubaru1387 that's what I was referring to was the idle relearn it did the same thing when I replace the valve cover gasket but I think I drove it long enough to where I didn't notice anything in reverse
@@MrSubaru1387 by any chance do you know how long the relearn process takes? And thank you for the supre fast response. I have decided to try to do must of the work on my Subaru so I'm trying to learn as much as possible it is a 2010 3.6 outback as well.
So I just did new plugs on my 2015 Legacy. Didn't use Subaru branded NGK's, but used the NGK model specified in the service manual, which matched what came out of the vehicle. After I got the new plugs in, the car was idling bad, and the check engine light came on. I panicked and replaced the new plugs with the old plugs. Then I realized the ECU probably just needed to relearn air/fuel mixture. So I probably just re-swapped for no good reason. Is it typical to have bad driving conditions (poor idle , hesitant acceleration) for a while after plug change? Or did I just get a bad set of plugs from Auto zone? Thanks!
@@MrSubaru1387 I didn't check them manually, but the spec from NGK is exactly the same as what the service manual calls for. The old plugs perform slightly better but still getting bad hesitation when I open the throttle and an occasional check engine light. Was able to drive the car to work, but it was a little rough. I'll try idle relearn tonight and check the gap manually on the new plugs. Would pulling the engine codes be helpful?
@@MrSubaru1387 also wondering if the MAF got dorked up, as I pulled it and sprayed it down with MAF cleaner. Probably would explain the issues at throttle.. just don't know if you can diagnose it without replacing it/apart from codes.
The passenger cam has some free play, by hand, it shouldn't cause any concern if it rotated a bit forward or back. Just line it back up to the timing mark before installing the belt.
yes, when i took the bolt off to change cam seal it jumped to the left, then when i went to line up mark it jumped to the right. then i went around one revolution back to center.
On the SOHC, you should still be ok as long as the crank was lined to the timing mark. When the crank is on the timing mark, the pistons are half bore, so, the valves shouldn't have contacted the piston. You should be ok.
hey buddy, well i have the timing belt and pulley's of the car. she passed both head gasket test but i noticed the was no coolant flowing in the radiator when it was over heating. water pump time?
Hopefully they didn’t charge too much for that plug... there is nothing special about it, any auto parts store should have it on the shelf for probably cheaper.
I watched this video. Pffft! Ha! How hard could it be? I've done way harder jobs, easy. Nope. This is it people, this is the most infuriating automotive job I have ever come across. I've worked on Volvos, Fords, BMWs, Hondas, but this is something else. Just pay the dealership the 450-500 dollars they want to do it. I know you're thinking "that's a lot!" But dear god. This job took me about 4 to 6 hours of my life. Trying desperately to switch between extensions JUST short or JUST long enough not to work. You need fingers the size of... well idk. Also, be careful you dont accidentally take the spark plug out TOO much with a ratchet, because it'll get wedged between the frame rail and the engine. And the spark plugs arent even the worst part. NO! Its the SPRINGS AND BOOTS on the coilpacks!!! Those damn springs keep popping out! I tell you, I've done tougher jobs, but I knew theyd be hard, This is just something else. This just isnt worth anyones time.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I used this video as a template for how to change the spark plugs on my ‘13 Outback 3.6R that just hit 60K miles. I found the video to be immensely helpful, also with preparing for the job by getting the required tools. In my case just the short extensions, which made the work fairly straightforward and simple. I appreciate all your videos on the EZ36D, so thank you!
You’re welcome!
My local shop just quoted me $460 to change the spark plugs on my 2014 3.6 Outback. Looks like I'll be watching this video a few times.
yeah Hermiston Subaru was asking 425.00!!!
I was quoted $800 in Fall 2023 (parts and labor).
Won't admit how many times I watched this. Finally decided to do it. Success! Note: Since Snap On truck doesn't stop at a DIY house, I will say Koken spark plug socket and extensions were the best! Take a mental break before touching that rear drivers side plug - you'll need the energy and patience for sure. Long live the internet - thanks Mr. Subaru.
Thanks for the video, the only tricky part for me was removing the back coil on the driver side, I had to disconnect it and move the wire to the rear to be able to take it out. Very helpful! We want more 3.6 tutorials :)
My tip: if you're doing the 2015-2019 models, start on the driver side rear plug, it's the hardest one to access and if you leave it for last it's going to be more painful than if you do it first. I also found it easier to unclip the lead from the coil packs and remove the coil packs entirely. My one gripe is why the hell is Subaru using so many bolts to hold the battery carriage on these? 6 bolts! The two side mount bolts are nearly impossible to get out unless you're under the car and if you have a ratcheting wrench this is going to come in really handy for those.
100% regarding the side mount battery carriage bolts. Once I pulled those things out they went straight to the trash. I never want to mess with those two bolts again, four is plenty.
Argree completly, Just did mine. It took me around 5 hours in front of my apartment. 15' outback 137,867 miles.
thanks for all your videos, they helped me in buying my first Subaru
My guess is that it's a structural band-aid engineering came up with. It makes no sense as a battery tray alone.
Just finished using this video to change the plugs in my ‘13 Legacy. Thanks for the step-by-step instructions! Definitely saved me some $$$ !
P.S. - Those rear cylinders were a beast!
Thank you for this video. I changed plugs in my Legacy 3.6 by carefully writing down the steps in this tutorial. I then carefully followed them. The battery tray with its numerous bolts holding it down was a bit of a challenge. I was too lazy to remove the engine bottom cover; however I used a extension ratcheting socket after using an offset to break the bolts loose where the tray attaches to the frame. Next time I change the oil I will put those two bolts in place. The main reason for doing this was to not have to remove the tray again if there was some issue with my spark plugs/coils. Everything worked great however. I did need to use a smaller ratchet for spark plug removal in conjunction with 1" extensions and I removed the coils on the driver's side in order to get more room.
Thanks to this helpful guide, I just did the plugs on on my 2017 Legacy 3.6R. My vehicle appears to have a slightly different battery tray, because I also had to remove the metal tray under the plastic one to gain access to the coils, and there are two side-mounted fasteners that I cursed and swore at a lot, but later discovered they're easy to get from underneath. I also had the hardest time with the back plug on the driver side, but overall it wasn't as scary as it looks.
Glad to help. 👍🏻 Yes, the 2015-2019 chassis/engine bay is slightly different.
Same challenge same cursing
Thank you for taking the time to make such a detailed video. I feel much better equiped to tackle this project now. Will let you know how it goes.
Best diy video. Paid the dealer for the first change but would have tackled it myself if this video was available 6 years ago. Getting ready to do the second change myself next week. We really need a video on changing the starter on a 2010 outback 3.6r. Mine hangs up when cold and needs cleaned and greased. That bottom nut is the issue. Thanks
2019 Subaru Outback 3.6R Limited. 60K miles. Job took about 2 1/2 hours. Side bolts for battery tray and the driver's side rear plug were the most challenging part of the job. Total success. Thank you for the video. I saved some bucks doing the work myself.
If you’re willing to say, how has your 3.6R limited help up since your original comment ??
I am very interested in finding a 2015-2019 3.6r outback because of the engine and the character of the interior, and I found a great on CPO at 25k miles good service record,
I’ve heard both sides of the story. These are either amazing and reliable as long as you take care of them, and I’ve heard stories of this generation having the transmisión lock on them, or engine is leaking at 60-70k miles.
Granted I hear more good stories than not so I’m not too scared, but just curious how yours has held up??
If you respond thanks :) if not no worries ❤
@@1surfpesca_ I owned a 2002 and 2013 Outback. My 2019 is by far the best version I've owned. Been and is 100% reliable.
If you completed both sides in 2.5 hours you are a stud! Takes me twice that long.
Follow up... new plugs, cleaned throttle body, a better hose clamp leading into the intake and a battery replacement alleviated the problem.. no transmission issues. Work performed by myself for very little money. I hope this helps someone else.
Mate I’m getting similar issues on my Aussie ‘09 3.6R Outback - intermittently jerking under moderate load. Was planning to do the same that you’ve done. Glad it worked for you, we’ll see if I have any luck!🤞🏼
@@benbassett1124 how did it go mate?
@@hunndy yeah really well. The jerking/miss has been resolved now. The plugs looked worn when I pulled them, and I suspect they weren’t changed at 210K like they were supposed to. I changed them at 230K so they’ve earned their retirement!
Also cleaned the MAF sensor and the (filthy) throttle body.
Ah, the joy of 6 cylinder far side plugs!
That will never get old!
Dealership quoted me 600 dollars for this exact thing. Needless to say, I'm gonna be studying this video for a while.
Thanks for all of the great videos. I just completed this and came back to see how I did in comparison. For a non-pro wrench, I'd say ok. Much less time than several quotes I received. I don't remember ever having them done(maybe 60k?) and got the changed at 145k. There was obvious loss of power and poor fuel economy. The difference is very evident. O² sensors are next! But four at once is going to hurt.
I removed the coils completely and wiped the boot down with some silicone lube on a cloth. DE grease on the harness clip. Smidge of high temperature anti-sieze on the plug threads. They were quite rough to back out. Smooth as silk to reinstall. I found the drivers side was easier than the passengers, but it was the first time doing it on a Subaru.
yeah I need to think about the oxy senors thanks for the reminder. Going to be ordering them soon.
Just saved me $400 at the stealership. Thanks!
You're welcome 👍🏻
Nice work thanks! If possible please make more videos on this same motor in the future
WOW !!!!! Great video!!!!!! The rear coils and plugs seem to be the worst.
I replaced spark plugs on my 2005 Subaru Legacy BP5 along with this video. The entire procedure is not exactly the same with this engine tho, just slightly different. I found there was some engine oil in all the spark plug holes. I guess the my head gasket might blown up. Not a good sign. Ugh!~# As always, I really appreciate your video , will go ahead watching the videos of your channel , I learned so much from your tutorials and have so much fun. Thank you again.
Oil in spark plug wells is a bad rocker cover gasket, not head gasket.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you for that , I'll check that out whether I could replace it by myself otherwise I'll have to find a local work shop to do this job. Thank you. Have a great day.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
First of all thank you sir for uploading this. My wife’s 2011 3.6 had 2 misfire codes now the transmission jerks intermittently (especially up hill). The dealership where we bought it new quoted a new transmission was needed due to “a bad main bearing”?! I’m thinking this is a rouse. 181k and the plugs need changing again. Hoping it’s that or an intake gasket leak. I’ll be leveraging this video to do it. Thank you again sir.
holio ... Absolutely.. It was nothing more than a battery replacement. The car would start however there apparently wasn’t enough power in it to run the operational electronics correctly which impacted the shifting of the transmission. Proudly, I was able to figure this out myself a few days after this post. That was 7 months ago and the vehicle has performed perfectly since the replacement.. Perfectly. This is why I will take time that I can ill afford to spare to diagnose and repair my own car if at all possible. Great vehicle...blood sucking dealership. They will never again get my business and I tell everyone I know, not to go there.
Awesome video.
1. The snap on FX1 extension is usually available used on the E'bay and is identified as both 1 OR 1.5". They are the same and vital.
2. Agree with "start on the drivers side rear". That coil pack is easier to handle with the wire disconnected, bolt rotated UP and slide the pack forward.
4. Anyone who says they did this in 1.5 hours is either a liar, or they have girl hands, or they are a liar with girl hands.
They sure don't make things easier to get to anymore do they. If you can do an electric rear brake pad change on a 2017 Outback that would be awesome
Just did the plugs at 100k miles on wife’s 2012 Outback 3.6r.I drove the car up on ramps.Removed the the center splash shield.Replaced the plugs from underneath on a creeper.But I am lazy and have a cushy creeper.
Can you get to all 6 from under there by just removing the guard? My wife has the exact same car and I was contemplating doing this myself or taking it to the dealer.
It's far easier to replace the plugs topside.
Spacecadet you are going to get different opinions on doing it from the top or the bottem.The car likes to climb the ramps because of the all wheel drive.Its easier on my bad back to lay on my creeper.I cut a piece of 3/8 fuel line to use to start to plugs with my fingers.You don’t have to touch any parts on top.I would bet the Subaru dealer techs put the car on a rack and do it from the bottem.The only problem is those push pins break that they use to hold all the plastic on .
Brilliant❤
great video, as usual. Judging from the clearance between the head and frame of the car, a head gasket job would be an engine-out nightmare?
My Outback is a 2010. Once you've mastered spark plug changing, advance yourself to changing a headlight bulb. Simple? Not with a Subaru! You have to go up through the wheel well and feel your way through it. Big bucks for mechanics on that job.
It seems your Outback is equipped with an Ate ABS hydraulic and electronic control unit. 6:10
Very skilled video, not easy to record.
Thank you. 👍🏻
TORQUE specs. According to this video torque the plugs to 15.5 Ft-lbs (21 Nm) and the coil bolt to 11.8 Ft-lbs (16 Nm). Hope I saved you from scrolling through the video. Note: I didn't verify these numbers elsewhere.
Thanks so much for this video!
With 70k on my 2015 Outback, it's time, before it gets too cold out, LOL!
Subaru dealer quoted me for $669 to replace spark plugs for my 2015 Legacy 3.6R. I think I'm gonna give it a try changing it myself. My Honda is so much easier to replace spark plugs.
You make all the hard work look feasible for us mortals. Question, when you took off the back one on the passenger side, by looking at your hand position it looked as if you were on top of the engine. Did you climb in? Thanks for all your videos!
No. For the rears I usually reach around the back of the head from above though. Makes it easier to get out. Just leaned on it. Haha. You're welcome. Glad you enjoy the videos. 👍🏻
I have a 2016 Outback and used this video to replace my spark plugs, thank you!Everything went great. However I drove it shortly after I finished and my car was slow to accelerate. Spark plugs are from Subaru and I am not sure what it could be. Please help 😬
Did you ever find out what the slow acceleration issue was?
Just ordered "2" 1" extensions...that is how you do it! Thanks!
Please provide where you found 1" extensions. I'm only able to find 1.5". Thank you
Snap-on
@@MrSubaru1387 I contacted snap on and the rep I spoke with could not find the part. If you or anyone else has the number I would appreciate. Don't want to start without the right tools. Thanks
@@dennisrufolo7721 FX1
This is gonna come in handy, just hit 60K AND I gotta replace the ignition coil on cyl.5. It went out some time back and I got a super cheapo coil instead of oem or performance. I can feel it being weird.
About to do spark plug replacement thank you for the video
16:14 lol that was risky as you were barely in the extension with the torque wrench, was waiting for it to slip and pop out as you're tightening, could've been a knuckle buster.
Now that I'm doing this, I realize I am watching a speedrun 🤣
Молодец паря, спокойно, четко, без суеты.
What is better
Outback 4or 6 cylinder?
From practicality and spare parts??
Thank you
Thank you for an awesome video. Do you have part #'s for Ko-ken or Tone 32mm or smaller extensions? 3/8th drive. Thanks again
It doesn't look so difficult. I would have probably done some cleanup while the parts were removed, particularly on the one battery terminal. I'm seriously considering getting a Subaru with that engine as my next vehicle, obviously a used vehicle as I don't think that engine is available in any of the current models.
Thanks mate
Hi nice videos. I was just wondering why are you not using any anti seize on the spark plugs thread's ? And some deilecteric grease on the boots ? Thanks
Good quality video. What kind of camera? Just took my 2011 3.6R Outback in yesterday for 90k service and noticed on service report that at 60k they did not change plugs. Dealer service manager said they overlooked this? and it should be done before 100k. wtf? $850 for 90k service, I'm doing this myself. Any suggestions?
GoPro Hero 5 Black. Suggestions for the plug replacement?
Great video! I have a 2016 Outback 3.6R. When I go to take out the battery, do I have to hook up a battery memory saver or can I get away without using one? Are there any resets I'll have to redo with contacts, channel presets, or anything else?
No need for a battery saver aside from keep clock and radio presets.
Thanks!
This looks like a pain. Doable, but a pain. Would you recommend spending the extra cash on a 100k mile plug, like an Ngk laser platinum?
Yes, get the iridium, they're worth it. The fewer times you have to do this the better.Plus OEM are iridium and its generally not advisable to "downgrade".
@@SergeiTheAnarch yeah after looking into it, the 3.6 uses ngk laser iridium, which are usually a 100k mile plug but in this case they are only 60k mile plugs. I wonder if it is because Subaru recommends them being changed at 60k and the plugs are actually made for 100k, or if they are only 60k mile plugs from Ngk 🤔
@@wrf8245 I've had mine in for over 100k and when I changed them, 1 was seized to hell, 2 were running too hot, and 1 was out of spec on the gap. Still perfectly functional but I don't think I'd push it much past 100k miles.
@@SergeiTheAnarch good to know, with my luck I’d have a seized plug by the firewall were there is no wiggle room. If you have a CVT, how many miles and how is it holding up? Did you ever service it?
@@wrf8245 I have the 5EAT, I snagged a 2014 3.6 since I hate CVTs. Holding up well besides the usual wear and tear; might look into aftermarket transmission (shifts are kind of slow) since the ultimate goal is either twin turbo or twin charging it once the engine starts to need a lot of work (might as well overbuild it if I have to rebuild it). Recently replaced PCV valve and will be replacing the PCV hose since I guess it got melted at some point. Subarus generally last a long time if you follow the maintenance schedule and avoid the NA 2.5L engine.
man those back ones look incredibly difficult! same sort of idea for the Ez30 as well? should be almost identical? Keep up the good work buddy!
Yes. Basically. I do have a video on the EZ30D spark plugs.
MrSubaru1387 that's right you do to!!
You should try the brz. All sorts of nonsense like undoing engine mounts and removing ecu's.
Thanks for the instruction video! Would I be able to tell any difference before and after spark plug replacement? I don't mind paying someone to do it, but I want to make sure I can tell if they've done it or not. A dealership charged me for air filter replacement and tire rotation that they didn't perform. The service writer said it was a miscommunication, but it's hard to trust them when they did twice LoL albeit a small stuffs.
No. Unless your plugs are really bad, you probably won't tell any difference.
@@MrSubaru1387 I see. Sounds like I'll try replace them myself. I wish it were as simple as replacing those plugs on the 2.4L Honda :). Thanks again for the info!
Thank you for the detailed videos on how to work on Subarus!!!
I own a 2014 Subaru Outback Limited Edition with a 2.5 with CVT transmission. I am planning to do my spark plugs when I do the timing belt at 100,000-103,000 miles.
Will this spark plug procedure be same/similar for the 2.5 engine?
2014 Outback should have an FB25B. No timing belt. It has a timing chain.
Yes, spark plug replacement will be similar.
MrSubaru1387 Is there any way I can verify this? Inspection hole? Engine tag on the block or checking the Vin?
Open passenger door. Look at the plate near the seal in the jamb. Engine code will be marked.
MrSubaru1387 You are correct and thank you!!!
It says FB25BCYHDB
Yup. Timing chains. One less maintenance item to think about.
I just put my 3.6 up on ramps and crawled under. Looks like total access with no need to remove anything.
Underneath is the hard way.
Thanks for this video. It gave me the confidence to replace the plugs myself. I was able to replace all except for the last one on the drivers side. The coil pack was a bear to get off of it and it did come off but I didn’t have enough room to move it out of the way to get to the plug. So what’s the trick to that one?
What is the reliability of the 3.6r ?
Hey man, just discovered your videos the other day. GREAT JOB! I did this same plug replacement the day before finding your video. I had searched all over tying to find the correct torque spec for the plugs and the best I could find was NGKs site which listed this plug in aluminum head at 18-21.6 left. I decided to tighten to the 21.6. The question is, is this too tight given you state they should be at 15.5 left. Basically will this cause potential harm to the head, cylinders or shorten the life of the plugs. Would you recommend taking it apart and backing off to the 15.5. I would hate to but want it to be correct and I should be quicker the second time around. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Don't worry about it. No harm done.
Good video. Do you know a lot about subaru power steering. I have a 2008 impreza with 190k. Been having PS issue. First started couple months after bought it. Would get tight and skip but only when i was coming/going out of a parking. So changed the pump. worked great for a month then same problem. My buddy said let's try the pump again. So we did that seems to fix but not for long. Did another new pump along with the belt and hose. worked for few months and now it's different it's leaking from behind the pump. what could my problem be?
This helped, but good lord, it took me 5 hours and dropped two small extensions that disappeared somewhere, which made the last battery side back on near impossible to get out and in, and that coil, lawwd........ There's apparently one way in and twist just right to get that one in and out.......... Yikes........
Is it the same procedure with an EZ36D in a Tribeca?
This is why cars are so expensive to repair yourself, you have to take so many parts off.
How often do you replace the coil igniters?
When I woke up, he was only on the second plug !!!!
Subscribed! Which coilpacks do you recommend for the 3.6R? Can I save some money on the rockauto stuff over OEM?
Why are you replacing the coil packs?
the smallest Koken extension ican find is 30mm or 1 1/4 in will two of those fit for the plugs closest the fire-wall? Thanks
Just finished changing the spark plugs on my
2012 Subaru Outback 3.6R ..The job took me 7 hours ,, its NOT EASY ,, if you have Big Hands like me,,
Yoir going to have a gery hard tme,, the Back Plug on
each side took the Longest ,, if my Asian wife with small hands did not help me,, I wouldnt of completed
the Job,, and you must have the right tools,you must have a 3/8” Flex Ratchet,, 2 3/8” extension,, 1 3” extension,,1 3/8 universal,,1 3/8 wobbly,,1 5/8 spark plug socket(I used a Koken 16mm Spark plug socket,,
1 pick, 1 pocket screwdriver,,1 10mm socket,,1 12mm socket,,1 10mm box end wrench,, 1 long screwdriver ,,
And LOTS LOTS OF PATIENCE
Please share link to purchase the " beep " torque wrench!
many thanks!!!!
Awesome video so far! I’m still watching you do the passenger side. My NGK plugs arrived yesterday. Should I check the gap? If so what spec?
These OE, with the odd ground strap, are pre gapped and non adjustable as far as I know. I believe the spec is 1-1.1mm.
MrSubaru1387 Ahhh...ok. Also, I have a quick jack. If you were doing this at work would you do it from underneath? Sorry for so many questions. You’ve been super helpful!
Nope. At work/in a shop. I'd do it just the same. A lot harder to do from below.
MrSubaru1387 Perfect! Thanks!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Hello Mr. Subaru ,,
I have a 2012 Subaru Outback 3.6R,, and I need to
Change the Spark Plugs ,, I have a very very important
Question. On the side where the Battery is located ,,
When you got to the BACK SPARK PLUG,,,
Did you have A DIFFICULT TIME REMOVING the
WIRING HARNESS CLIP ,, in your video it
DOES NOT show you actually removing the
Wiring Harness Clip.Did you remove it after
You loosened the 10mm Bolt on the Coil,,
And do you have BIG HANDS as I do…This is
The only one that worries me…PLEASE PLEASE REPLY
I guess the 2.5 engine is about the same for the replacement of the spark plugs. I also have a 2012 Forester and shouldn't be a huge difference, right?
Also, I have a humming sound that comes from the rear part of the 2014 Outback. I've heard that the wheel bearings are a weak point for Outbacks but the wheels didn't have any freeplay when I lifted the car. Do you have any videoas for that???
Thanks for your videos man...
2012 will be an FB25B rather than an EJ253. So, slightly different. Plugs go in straight from the top of the cylinder, where this goes at an angle. Check out my WRX/Turbo spark plug video. It'll be closer. To find a noisy wheel bearing, you can drive down a back road, alone, get to about 45 mph and swerve back and forth slightly. You should be able to hear which side the bad bearing is on, if you have a bad bearing that is.
Thanks for the video, I like everything, 3.6 is only European, the same I like to do everything myself, the only thing there is no manual on repair in Russian, I have to think everything myself. I changed the oil in the automatic transmission for 95.000 km., But I would like to see how you do it, if you have not changed it yet.
Thank you for the video ..
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Do I need the engine cover for this? The posts that hold it in place on mine broke and Im unsure if I should get a new one or not.
At what mileage would you change the coil packs? Do you ever need to change them?
You change them when they fail.
I wouldn't trust a shop to do this without proof. I bet there are a lot of 3.6 owners running 4 new spark plugs in cylinders 1-4 and have original plugs in cylinders 5 & 6.
The Subaru maintenance schedule for 2012+ states 100k for plugs. Personal preference at 60k or would you recommend 60k, 120k etc?
On the Driver's side (USA model) the middle cable and cable nearest the firewall are the same length. I admit I didn't label them before removing them from the old coils. I see at 11:40, the one with green insulation is in the middle. Is that correct?
How's about undoing engine mounts jacking up engine I saw it in another video any precautions about where exactly to jack under the engine
Completely unnecessary.
At what mileage you would consider changing the spark plugs? My 2017 3.6 as 92k km on it...
When would you recommend changing the coils?
When they fail.
@@MrSubaru1387 For the EZ36s do you know when they typically fail?
@@user-yf1oq5nc3r currently have 296k miles on all 6 original factory coils in my EZ30D 2002 Outback L.L.Bean. There's no set time or intervals.
@@MrSubaru1387 I also have an 02 Outback with the EZ30D. 240k miles original coils. I've changed the radiator, alternator, tensioner, pulley, both front CV shafts, fuel pump. Any thing else you would recommend changing? Did you change the waterpump on yours?
I have not. Water pump is a major service. Timing cover removed, timing chains, etc to access. Only replace these when they start to leak/fail.
I just pulled the first plug on the passenger side (2010 OB 3.6R) and its has a fair amount of oil on it. Any ideas on what may be wrong? Gaskets, PCV,...? I haven’t experienced any misfires. It seems to run very smoothly. 83k miles.
Most likely spark plug tube seals. Means time for rocker cover gasket replacement.
MrSubaru1387 Thanks:/
Sorry man. :/
Do you know if they updated to the newer epoxy coils for the 13 plus?
Did you have to input a radio code after connecting battery?
Nope.
Got somthin unrelated my lights flicker when the engines running but are steady when its off appreciate the help
Headlights or all lights? Check the alternator. Could be a voltage regulator issue.
MrSubaru1387 all lights. Thanks for thanks quick response yikes lol
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Do we have to reprogram the radio? If yes, how come?
Outback H6 2015 has not much room for replace those two rear plugs.. I have to leave them alone.. for good..... I have tried from a top, from a bottom... Pulling a coil is a mission impossible for me...
Any special tools to consider here? That’s a TIGHT squeeze, is that ratchet handle angled?
No special tools required. Just ratchet, extensions, spark plug socket.
Would this be the same on a 2016 3.6r?
How come there are no videos about knock sensors on 2015 and newer legacy 3.6 engine? everything is done only on the little 4 cyl motors.... its frustrating
You have a knock sensor issue on the 3.6? It's the same as the 2.5 in diagnosis and replacement, just you have two and they're under the intake manifold.
Is there a certain time that the coils would be replaced?
My oem coils in my 2002 EZ30D are at 286k miles. You don't replace them until they fail, which I've found to be pretty rare.
Wow Thank YOU!!
damn what a pain the ass....i dont see myself attempting that
One question is 21nm for most spark plugs? I have NGK laser Iridium and I'm not really sure how tight it should be.. some say thread in by hand and give it 1/2 turn until gasket is snug. This option or torque wrench? Thanks
Most all NGK plugs, in aluminum, are to 21nm.
So I replaced my spark plugs last night 2010 Subaru Outback 3.6 and I just drove it around the neighborhood to let it reprogram itself and when I put it in reverse to back into the garage it acted like it wanted to stall out it is an automatic. Is this because it was not driven long enough and did not give it time to reprogram?
There is no reprogram for spark plugs.. You replace them and drive. Either there's an issue with the plugs/colis from the install, something was left disconnected, or you have an unrelated issue. If you took the battery loose, check the throttle body. It may need to be cleaned and then have an idle relearn procedure performed.
@@MrSubaru1387 that's what I was referring to was the idle relearn it did the same thing when I replace the valve cover gasket but I think I drove it long enough to where I didn't notice anything in reverse
@@MrSubaru1387 by any chance do you know how long the relearn process takes? And thank you for the supre fast response. I have decided to try to do must of the work on my Subaru so I'm trying to learn as much as possible it is a 2010 3.6 outback as well.
th-cam.com/video/Ud6OU13IDSQ/w-d-xo.html
@@MrSubaru1387 awesome thanks so much man I'll give it a shot whe. J get off work I have a different work car so I dont drive it everyday.
So I just did new plugs on my 2015 Legacy. Didn't use Subaru branded NGK's, but used the NGK model specified in the service manual, which matched what came out of the vehicle.
After I got the new plugs in, the car was idling bad, and the check engine light came on. I panicked and replaced the new plugs with the old plugs.
Then I realized the ECU probably just needed to relearn air/fuel mixture. So I probably just re-swapped for no good reason.
Is it typical to have bad driving conditions (poor idle , hesitant acceleration) for a while after plug change? Or did I just get a bad set of plugs from Auto zone?
Thanks!
Sounds like the need for a idle relearn. Did you check the gaps on the plugs before installing them?
@@MrSubaru1387 I didn't check them manually, but the spec from NGK is exactly the same as what the service manual calls for.
The old plugs perform slightly better but still getting bad hesitation when I open the throttle and an occasional check engine light. Was able to drive the car to work, but it was a little rough. I'll try idle relearn tonight and check the gap manually on the new plugs.
Would pulling the engine codes be helpful?
@@Lttlwing16_ always pull codes before diagnosing any issue.
@@MrSubaru1387 also wondering if the MAF got dorked up, as I pulled it and sprayed it down with MAF cleaner. Probably would explain the issues at throttle.. just don't know if you can diagnose it without replacing it/apart from codes.
I'm attempting this on the 2014 2.5. is the process the same?
th-cam.com/video/nLet3J2KAT0/w-d-xo.html
I usrd a swivel socket on plug 6
Could you ever make some videos on the BRZ??? Please!!!
If I can get my hands on one. Lol
How about mine? I’ve been watching your videos for a while and my BRZ is gonna be hitting 100,000 miles so I need a new water pump and timing belt!!!
BRZ has timing chains.
Fuck!!! Haha oh well! Also you seem pretty cool do you have an Instagram I could follow you on?
@robert_lazenby
Do somebody have the cylinder layout for this engine
Hey buddy does it matter if the camshaft pulley on the driver side was turned after the timing marks were lined up and the belt was removed
The passenger cam has some free play, by hand, it shouldn't cause any concern if it rotated a bit forward or back. Just line it back up to the timing mark before installing the belt.
The passenger side is a little loose. The drivers side is the one that is tight and was rotated one turn and is tight at the timing mark. Is that ok?
You rotated the driver's side cam one full revolution?
yes, when i took the bolt off to change cam seal it jumped to the left, then when i went to line up mark it jumped to the right. then i went around one revolution back to center.
On the SOHC, you should still be ok as long as the crank was lined to the timing mark. When the crank is on the timing mark, the pistons are half bore, so, the valves shouldn't have contacted the piston. You should be ok.
Anyone have a link to the cylinder 3 location on a 2015 outback 3.6r I can’t find it anywhere on google
My fingers hurt already :)
hey buddy, well i have the timing belt and pulley's of the car. she passed both head gasket test but i noticed the was no coolant flowing in the radiator when it was over heating. water pump time?
Could be. Is the pump leaking? Hard to turn by hand?
Any play in the pulley on the pump?
i did it this evening and my light went out, im gonna check in the morning. but i dont see any leaking though.
should i see coolant moving in the radiator?
When fully warmed up, thermostat open, you should see some movement.
There are more space to work than a 3.0R? So it appears... greetings!
Somewhat. Bigger engine bay, but also larger engine. Slightly.
Hopefully they didn’t charge too much for that plug... there is nothing special about it, any auto parts store should have it on the shelf for probably cheaper.
I watched this video. Pffft! Ha! How hard could it be? I've done way harder jobs, easy. Nope. This is it people, this is the most infuriating automotive job I have ever come across. I've worked on Volvos, Fords, BMWs, Hondas, but this is something else. Just pay the dealership the 450-500 dollars they want to do it. I know you're thinking "that's a lot!" But dear god. This job took me about 4 to 6 hours of my life. Trying desperately to switch between extensions JUST short or JUST long enough not to work. You need fingers the size of... well idk. Also, be careful you dont accidentally take the spark plug out TOO much with a ratchet, because it'll get wedged between the frame rail and the engine. And the spark plugs arent even the worst part. NO! Its the SPRINGS AND BOOTS on the coilpacks!!! Those damn springs keep popping out! I tell you, I've done tougher jobs, but I knew theyd be hard, This is just something else. This just isnt worth anyones time.
Thank you for your comment. My daughter just had this done at a garage and I wanted to do the work myself. I’m glad I didn’t.