$249 for 2 rows of 140 hp and it’s portable, I’ve never seen anyone point that out! When you tighten modules it unsquares the case, so that should be easy to fix. I personally won’t buy anything with out the floating nuts (that’s just a personal preference that I feel makes it more professional feeling) also I agree with the short brick wire, but I move stuff around a lot so I Velcro the brick to the unit, when they all have they’re bricks attached there’s no confusion when reconnecting. Just my opinions and solutions! lol, Ty for the video! I think that you’re going back for more says everything! Peace
Great review. I think that ultimately this case is much like all things Behringer: not the highest quality kit on the market, but the price to utility ratio is so good that it will be a great value for producers anywhere in the pure hobbyist to semi-pro range.
I think Behringer adjusted some things in the production meanwhile. My power cord is much longer, I don’t have the spacing problems. Bought mine half a year ago. Hope that helps 😊 Very nice video! Thank you!
Hi! Thank you for watching. I recently purchased my 2nd GO case, and it's pretty much the same as the first. In fact the top gaps are a bit more dramatic, even. Not a thing I'll lose sleep over, it's a great case regardless of my OCD :-)
Update: I just now got around to using both of my GO cases, and you're correct that the power chord is indeed much longer! I hadn't noticed because I was using my old power brick until just now 🙂
@@VisionsMusicGroup BTW, the best cure for OCD is looking at a picture of the „Monk“ DVD box sometimes. How the hell can somebody do this to people 😂😂😂 Nooooooo 🙈🙈🙈
I have a modular synth myself, consisting of three Doepfer Low-cost Cases with fixed rails, and two Behringer 19" Rack Kits having sliding nuts. Although I much prefer the fixed rail system, monetary restraints currently limit my options so I'll be getting a Behringer Go Case when I've filled-up the last 19" rack, then filling it with more Behringer EuroRack modules, of which I already have several (mostly sequencers). BTW, the thing that really gets my own OCD glands enflamed is seeing open slots in my modular system - I just gotta use blanking panels. Anyhoo, thanks for posting this vid. Very informative.
Just bought a new one of these cases, it has a longer cable on the brick and none of the warp/gap problems of yours, so it appears they have updated/upgraded it a little. I really wish they'd sell us the side brackets for connecting 2 of them like on the system 55 though.
@@VisionsMusicGroup The rails are still only secured at the ends, so it does have the potential to warp with the weight of the modules, especially if you carried it by the "handle".
This is great, thank you for your evaluation, ive got one coming next week and will bare in mind all your comments. If the power cord thing annoys me I will investigate the possibilty of mounting the brick inside the case in some way, but until I get my case I cant assume its going to be a problem for me.
Honestly, it's not terribly annoying in usage, my annoyance with the tiny cable is C'mon Behringer, really? 🤣 Let me know what you think once your case arrives!
Hi VMG! I have 2 Go cases now, and I agree totally with all you comments (not really so bothered about sliding nuts, I've know nothing else!). I have taken the cases out to play live and they hold up well. I love the fact that it's 280hp...it's a "big" case for not a lot of money and made perfect sense when I started on my modular journey. For live use I now use a custom 6U 104 case with a lid which is much more robust but I get frustrated that I can't always get everything in which I need so I have to make specific choices (which is probably a good thing, to be fair). Thank you for your series of videos on Modular - it's been great hearing about your likes, dislikes and working methods...
I have no discernible hum (or hiss) from the Behringer System 100 modules (the 305 mixer, specifically) nor is my case generating any noise. The only time I get hiss is when output is turned up higher than necessary - as with the Befaco AC/DC and it's incredible gain boost.
I noticed you have the Behringer 305 EQ (53mm depth) in the upper section of the case. The manual suggests not exceeding 40mm in the upper section - the power unit resides there. Have you encountered any issues because of this?
I have no issues with the 305 in that spot, no noise/buzzing, and nothing touching anyway. I have even experimented with deeper modules that almost touch, and haven't had heating or noise issues. As I type this I have a Doepfer A-135-2 mounted right over the power wire loops, and all is quiet.
I have a few tiptop mantis cases with very similar power adapters. According to tiptop the short lead between the adapter and the case is intentional. If i remember right they said it leads to less interference/cleaner power supply than if they had a long lead.
Thank you for this info. It's probably somewhere in the Behringer manual too but maybe I missed it. Either way, not a dealbreaker, seemed a thing to bring up for fun :)
while this is true, the lead could be longer if the wire was of a heavier gauge and utilizing a shielded cable. As the author noted the rest of the comments are "picking nits". The case is not a road worthy type, but rather designed to control cost while providing a home studio workspace at a competitive price. thank for a good video of the case and its abilities.
Great video. Have you experienced any noise issues? I’ve discovered that when I introduce eurorack modules (Black Hole DSP, Doepfer A138 amongst others) there is a lot of white noise emitted. I have my Pro 1 and DFAM powered by zones A and B respectively and they operate silently. Very odd and no response from Behringer!
No abnormal noise here, except from noisy modules (like Golden Master). I've done most of these videos out of that Behringer case. I hope you find a solution!
Thanks for doing this video! Some of your dislikes would definitely bother me, and I've been looking at maybe buying a Go rack, so this is perfect for me. Personally my main issue would be the sliding nuts - I've moved my Behringer Model D from case to rack and back enough to really hate those little things.
What you said to Andrew, exactly. The "threaded rods" as I called them (they are not really rods, are they) have me so spoiled, I shall never slide a nut again in this lifetime.
Your desire to bump up every module tight against the next one contradicts your preference for fixed nuts though. With the latter, you’re impacted by the varying tolerances in module width that you mentioned earlier. I’d prefer fixed nuts too, but then might have to accept a small gap here and there.
While "contradicts" seems a strong label to use, I agree that not all manufacturers drill their holes the same. My solution? Group modules together that can compensate, thus still, minimal ugly gaps. Tada.
Thanks for the overview. I just ordered one and should have it in a few days so I can start my modular journey. I have a few standalone/modular like the west pest and a few others that I feel like I should rack them up. I have a Behringer K2 and can’t decide if I want to rack it up or not any advice on that one? Thanks for your video.
Welcome to the rabbit hole! Me personally, I leave all my semi-modular stuff in their own cases (Moog Studio, etc) because they simply take up too much space in Eurorack cases. If you're at the beginning of this journey, you probably have room to rack mount it all and have fun. Just know, you'll need that space, soon 😁 (unless you have way more discipline and self-control than the rest of us). Enjoy your journey!!
Hi, thanks for the overview of the Go Case. the specs info shows only enough clearance for 40mm deep modules on top row, but i see you have deeper ones fitted (the 305 being , according to its' specs, at 53mm) a few around 43 and 44mm. Did you have to move internal power supply around or did they "just" fit? Thanks again.
Hello! Thanks for watching. No, the left side is pretty deep (imo) both on top and bottom rows. The right side, the bottom is the same, but the top row does have the PSU components, and is a bit shallower. The 305 fits comfortably over the PSU with plenty of clearance. The areas that are troublesome (which I should have pointed out) are the very centers, where there is protruding plastic bits inside (maybe for stabilization of the grip handle?) preventing anything but the thinnest modules from being mounted at the exact center, but even then it's merely 3-4mm wide and not terrible. By thinnest, I mean things like Mutable Instruments-type thinness. I hope this helps.
@@VisionsMusicGroup Thanks for taking the time to reply. I've just taken delivery of a secondhand Go Case, and it did seem that it would take deeper modules away from the PSU section C. I have a Neutron now installed bottom left, but i did try it top left and it would be fine there too, with plenty of clearance over the "protruding plastic bits". Good to know that the 305 fits top right. I had planned to put it bottom right when it arrives, but now looking at top left.. Better for my cable runs that way. Cheers.
I'm debating between this and a rackbrute right now. I can't find anything onlike but it mentions the width of the case is about 12.3 inches, when you have the case up on a stand does the width essentially stay the same or does it decrease quite a bit? I don't have much width on my desk so this is the only thing I'm worried about
Sweetwater shows dimensions (12.2”H x 28.5”W x 4.4”D), and it is narrower with the stand kicked out than on it’s back, yes. You can also even stand this case upright entirely on it’s bottom edge, which would then make it around 5” thick. It’s not as stable as with the stand down, but it’s sturdy if you’re not actively plugging stuff in/out a lot.
Hmmmmm . i have the Behringer GO case too and dont have some of the issues you mention ,however as for the module part of it...Sure you will have gaps due to each of there own sizes. It a guessing game to fill the case without gaps. I have only a tiny gap on the lower part but that is all, Not a big deal. Here is the modules i used. 112 DUAL VCO, 121 DUAL VCF, 130 DUAL VCA, 140 DUAL ENVELOPE LFO, 150 RING MOD NOISE & LFO, 172 PHASE SHIFTER, 173 QUAD GATE MULTIPLES, 182 SEQUENCER, 960 SEQ CONTROLLER, 962 SEQ SWITCH, 994 MULTIPLES, 2600-VCO, BRAINS, FOUR LFO, RADAR, SPACE FX & lastly to finish off .....FOUR PLAY & CM1A MIDI to CV Converter.
What about the depth? It is known to be too shallow. The depth declared by Behringer must be wrong. It states only 40 mm in one of the rows... but I see you can fit in modules that are deeper than that... so what's the story there?
The only place I have found depth to be an issue is right above the power distribution section (top-right). I install my deeper modules to the top-left and have had minimal issues. One more hot spot for depth may be where the plastic molding is for the rear handle (dead center of top row). Otherwise, the GO case seems plenty deep for my usage.
You must have abused the hell out of your case. I have multiple B-Go cases and have not a single one of these issues outside of the power supply cable being short which is a huge complaint of mine too. Tempted to get some velcro for it and just velcro it to the back of the case. My case is not flexible at all, no light shining through and I have a literal open spot of 6hp where your's is on my bottom case. Maybe it's an error light? Did you drop it? There's no gaps on the edges either. I mean I don't slide my modules around....ever...not sure why you would especially if you hate sliding nuts (like I do, haven't bought rails cause they're damn expensive if replacing all my Go cases). Mine also doesn't have the gaps near any rails. If it weren't for the logo you wouldn't be able to even tell they were Go's Kinda weird. Did you possibly buy it used if you haven't been abusive to it? The only reason I'd EVER give up my Go's is to replace them with a nice 21u x 104hp wood case. But...until I can justify the $5,000 that'll cost me...I'll stick to my plastics lol. (also, I have NO word working ability at all. If someone in Louisiana can, let's talk.)
Nah no abuse here. I treat my modular equipment better than I do my automobile. I chalked it up to "plastic", and it is wobbly, but isn't a deal-breaker. Nothing in the GO case is a deal breaker, in fact. I've often considered buying more, but I'm brainstorming a wooden case as you mentioned. I happen to be crafty, just not good at it :)
To be fair, my TipTop Mantis that this was cloned from has gaps at the end of ots fixed rails depending on the module placement (all depends on whether the screw slots leave some room for error or not). I also had an issue powering up the case with some high current-draw modules, which caused the switching power supply to fail boot-up & repeatedly restart - this was with the older-style OEM TipTop cable which they have since changed for partly this reason, and couldn't get the case to work without a 2A+ supply, and I plan on going to 3A+. Also switching up your modular layout is commonplace, and until one decodes on specifically keeping a setup the way it is, for a specific reason, saying you don't understand why modules are being moved seems a bit bad faith to me... This stuff is ALWAYS evolving, and so is our patch thinking!
@@goonfish I do not recall where I said I "don't understand why modules are being moved". My cases are constantly evolving - with the exception of this very case, the Behringer GO case is my Behringer System 100 case specifically. As for the power brick, Behringer's is 5A, so this may be why I never experienced the power-on issues you mentioned.
Seems like a great alternative to the $400-$700 cases on the market that have less HP.
$249 for 2 rows of 140 hp and it’s portable, I’ve never seen anyone point that out! When you tighten modules it unsquares the case, so that should be easy to fix. I personally won’t buy anything with out the floating nuts (that’s just a personal preference that I feel makes it more professional feeling) also I agree with the short brick wire, but I move stuff around a lot so I Velcro the brick to the unit, when they all have they’re bricks attached there’s no confusion when reconnecting. Just my opinions and solutions! lol, Ty for the video! I think that you’re going back for more says everything! Peace
Great review. I think that ultimately this case is much like all things Behringer: not the highest quality kit on the market, but the price to utility ratio is so good that it will be a great value for producers anywhere in the pure hobbyist to semi-pro range.
Great job with such a detailed review. I really like that you gave a detailed summary of your observations . Thank you.
I think Behringer adjusted some things in the production meanwhile. My power cord is much longer, I don’t have the spacing problems.
Bought mine half a year ago. Hope that helps 😊 Very nice video! Thank you!
Hi! Thank you for watching. I recently purchased my 2nd GO case, and it's pretty much the same as the first. In fact the top gaps are a bit more dramatic, even. Not a thing I'll lose sleep over, it's a great case regardless of my OCD :-)
Update: I just now got around to using both of my GO cases, and you're correct that the power chord is indeed much longer! I hadn't noticed because I was using my old power brick until just now 🙂
@@VisionsMusicGroup BTW, the best cure for OCD is looking at a picture of the „Monk“ DVD box sometimes. How the hell can somebody do this to people 😂😂😂 Nooooooo 🙈🙈🙈
I have a modular synth myself, consisting of three Doepfer Low-cost Cases with fixed rails, and two Behringer 19" Rack Kits having sliding nuts. Although I much prefer the fixed rail system, monetary restraints currently limit my options so I'll be getting a Behringer Go Case when I've filled-up the last 19" rack, then filling it with more Behringer EuroRack modules, of which I already have several (mostly sequencers).
BTW, the thing that really gets my own OCD glands enflamed is seeing open slots in my modular system - I just gotta use blanking panels.
Anyhoo, thanks for posting this vid. Very informative.
Just bought a new one of these cases, it has a longer cable on the brick and none of the warp/gap problems of yours, so it appears they have updated/upgraded it a little. I really wish they'd sell us the side brackets for connecting 2 of them like on the system 55 though.
This is great news! I may pick up another one finally. Thank you!
@@VisionsMusicGroup The rails are still only secured at the ends, so it does have the potential to warp with the weight of the modules, especially if you carried it by the "handle".
This is great, thank you for your evaluation, ive got one coming next week and will bare in mind all your comments. If the power cord thing annoys me I will investigate the possibilty of mounting the brick inside the case in some way, but until I get my case I cant assume its going to be a problem for me.
Honestly, it's not terribly annoying in usage, my annoyance with the tiny cable is C'mon Behringer, really? 🤣 Let me know what you think once your case arrives!
@@VisionsMusicGroup I will do my friend
Hi VMG! I have 2 Go cases now, and I agree totally with all you comments (not really so bothered about sliding nuts, I've know nothing else!). I have taken the cases out to play live and they hold up well. I love the fact that it's 280hp...it's a "big" case for not a lot of money and made perfect sense when I started on my modular journey. For live use I now use a custom 6U 104 case with a lid which is much more robust but I get frustrated that I can't always get everything in which I need so I have to make specific choices (which is probably a good thing, to be fair). Thank you for your series of videos on Modular - it's been great hearing about your likes, dislikes and working methods...
If you're not bothered by sliding nuts you should avoid threaded inserts as long as you can, because you'll never want to go back.
Thanks for the review. One last question: do you have issues with noise or hum on your audio out?
thanks
I have no discernible hum (or hiss) from the Behringer System 100 modules (the 305 mixer, specifically) nor is my case generating any noise. The only time I get hiss is when output is turned up higher than necessary - as with the Befaco AC/DC and it's incredible gain boost.
I noticed you have the Behringer 305 EQ (53mm depth) in the upper section of the case. The manual suggests not exceeding 40mm in the upper section - the power unit resides there. Have you encountered any issues because of this?
I have no issues with the 305 in that spot, no noise/buzzing, and nothing touching anyway. I have even experimented with deeper modules that almost touch, and haven't had heating or noise issues. As I type this I have a Doepfer A-135-2 mounted right over the power wire loops, and all is quiet.
@@VisionsMusicGroup thank you!
I have a few tiptop mantis cases with very similar power adapters.
According to tiptop the short lead between the adapter and the case is intentional. If i remember right they said it leads to less interference/cleaner power supply than if they had a long lead.
Thank you for this info. It's probably somewhere in the Behringer manual too but maybe I missed it. Either way, not a dealbreaker, seemed a thing to bring up for fun :)
while this is true, the lead could be longer if the wire was of a heavier gauge and utilizing a shielded cable. As the author noted the rest of the comments are "picking nits". The case is not a road worthy type, but rather designed to control cost while providing a home studio workspace at a competitive price. thank for a good video of the case and its abilities.
Great video. Have you experienced any noise issues? I’ve discovered that when I introduce eurorack modules (Black Hole DSP, Doepfer A138 amongst others) there is a lot of white noise emitted. I have my Pro 1 and DFAM powered by zones A and B respectively and they operate silently. Very odd and no response from Behringer!
No abnormal noise here, except from noisy modules (like Golden Master). I've done most of these videos out of that Behringer case. I hope you find a solution!
Thanks for doing this video! Some of your dislikes would definitely bother me, and I've been looking at maybe buying a Go rack, so this is perfect for me. Personally my main issue would be the sliding nuts - I've moved my Behringer Model D from case to rack and back enough to really hate those little things.
What you said to Andrew, exactly. The "threaded rods" as I called them (they are not really rods, are they) have me so spoiled, I shall never slide a nut again in this lifetime.
Your desire to bump up every module tight against the next one contradicts your preference for fixed nuts though. With the latter, you’re impacted by the varying tolerances in module width that you mentioned earlier.
I’d prefer fixed nuts too, but then might have to accept a small gap here and there.
While "contradicts" seems a strong label to use, I agree that not all manufacturers drill their holes the same. My solution? Group modules together that can compensate, thus still, minimal ugly gaps. Tada.
Thanks for the overview. I just ordered one and should have it in a few days so I can start my modular journey. I have a few standalone/modular like the west pest and a few others that I feel like I should rack them up. I have a Behringer K2 and can’t decide if I want to rack it up or not any advice on that one? Thanks for your video.
Welcome to the rabbit hole! Me personally, I leave all my semi-modular stuff in their own cases (Moog Studio, etc) because they simply take up too much space in Eurorack cases. If you're at the beginning of this journey, you probably have room to rack mount it all and have fun. Just know, you'll need that space, soon 😁 (unless you have way more discipline and self-control than the rest of us). Enjoy your journey!!
Hi, thanks for the overview of the Go Case.
the specs info shows only enough clearance for 40mm deep modules on top row, but i see you have deeper ones fitted (the 305 being , according to its' specs, at 53mm) a few around 43 and 44mm.
Did you have to move internal power supply around or did they "just" fit?
Thanks again.
Hello! Thanks for watching. No, the left side is pretty deep (imo) both on top and bottom rows. The right side, the bottom is the same, but the top row does have the PSU components, and is a bit shallower. The 305 fits comfortably over the PSU with plenty of clearance. The areas that are troublesome (which I should have pointed out) are the very centers, where there is protruding plastic bits inside (maybe for stabilization of the grip handle?) preventing anything but the thinnest modules from being mounted at the exact center, but even then it's merely 3-4mm wide and not terrible. By thinnest, I mean things like Mutable Instruments-type thinness. I hope this helps.
@@VisionsMusicGroup Thanks for taking the time to reply. I've just taken delivery of a secondhand Go Case, and it did seem that it would take deeper modules away from the PSU section C. I have a Neutron now installed bottom left, but i did try it top left and it would be fine there too, with plenty of clearance over the "protruding plastic bits". Good to know that the 305 fits top right. I had planned to put it bottom right when it arrives, but now looking at top left.. Better for my cable runs that way. Cheers.
Thanks for video, great observations!
I am glad you mentioned the cracks. I am autistic and those cracks would bother me. So at least I now know to anticipate cracks if I get a go case.
I'm debating between this and a rackbrute right now.
I can't find anything onlike but it mentions the width of the case is about 12.3 inches, when you have the case up on a stand does the width essentially stay the same or does it decrease quite a bit? I don't have much width on my desk so this is the only thing I'm worried about
Sweetwater shows dimensions (12.2”H x 28.5”W x 4.4”D), and it is narrower with the stand kicked out than on it’s back, yes. You can also even stand this case upright entirely on it’s bottom edge, which would then make it around 5” thick. It’s not as stable as with the stand down, but it’s sturdy if you’re not actively plugging stuff in/out a lot.
Hmmmmm . i have the Behringer GO case too and dont have some of the issues you mention ,however as for the module part of it...Sure you will have gaps due to each of there own sizes. It a guessing game to fill the case without gaps. I have only a tiny gap on the lower part but that is all, Not a big deal. Here is the modules i used.
112 DUAL VCO, 121 DUAL VCF, 130 DUAL VCA, 140 DUAL ENVELOPE LFO, 150 RING MOD NOISE & LFO, 172 PHASE SHIFTER, 173 QUAD GATE MULTIPLES, 182 SEQUENCER, 960 SEQ CONTROLLER, 962 SEQ SWITCH, 994 MULTIPLES, 2600-VCO, BRAINS, FOUR LFO, RADAR, SPACE FX & lastly to finish off .....FOUR PLAY & CM1A MIDI to CV Converter.
That looks like a great system! Thank you for stopping by.
@@VisionsMusicGroup Your welcome 😀
Hmm. The design is definitely not well thought about. It's the price, obviously.
This appears to be a copy of the Tiptop Mantis case. Maybe Behringer was being accurate to their bad design 😁
I wish they copied even more, not enough power.
What about the depth? It is known to be too shallow. The depth declared by Behringer must be wrong. It states only 40 mm in one of the rows... but I see you can fit in modules that are deeper than that... so what's the story there?
The only place I have found depth to be an issue is right above the power distribution section (top-right). I install my deeper modules to the top-left and have had minimal issues. One more hot spot for depth may be where the plastic molding is for the rear handle (dead center of top row). Otherwise, the GO case seems plenty deep for my usage.
You must have abused the hell out of your case. I have multiple B-Go cases and have not a single one of these issues outside of the power supply cable being short which is a huge complaint of mine too. Tempted to get some velcro for it and just velcro it to the back of the case. My case is not flexible at all, no light shining through and I have a literal open spot of 6hp where your's is on my bottom case. Maybe it's an error light? Did you drop it? There's no gaps on the edges either. I mean I don't slide my modules around....ever...not sure why you would especially if you hate sliding nuts (like I do, haven't bought rails cause they're damn expensive if replacing all my Go cases). Mine also doesn't have the gaps near any rails. If it weren't for the logo you wouldn't be able to even tell they were Go's
Kinda weird. Did you possibly buy it used if you haven't been abusive to it? The only reason I'd EVER give up my Go's is to replace them with a nice 21u x 104hp wood case. But...until I can justify the $5,000 that'll cost me...I'll stick to my plastics lol. (also, I have NO word working ability at all. If someone in Louisiana can, let's talk.)
Nah no abuse here. I treat my modular equipment better than I do my automobile. I chalked it up to "plastic", and it is wobbly, but isn't a deal-breaker. Nothing in the GO case is a deal breaker, in fact. I've often considered buying more, but I'm brainstorming a wooden case as you mentioned. I happen to be crafty, just not good at it :)
To be fair, my TipTop Mantis that this was cloned from has gaps at the end of ots fixed rails depending on the module placement (all depends on whether the screw slots leave some room for error or not). I also had an issue powering up the case with some high current-draw modules, which caused the switching power supply to fail boot-up & repeatedly restart - this was with the older-style OEM TipTop cable which they have since changed for partly this reason, and couldn't get the case to work without a 2A+ supply, and I plan on going to 3A+.
Also switching up your modular layout is commonplace, and until one decodes on specifically keeping a setup the way it is, for a specific reason, saying you don't understand why modules are being moved seems a bit bad faith to me... This stuff is ALWAYS evolving, and so is our patch thinking!
@@goonfish I do not recall where I said I "don't understand why modules are being moved". My cases are constantly evolving - with the exception of this very case, the Behringer GO case is my Behringer System 100 case specifically. As for the power brick, Behringer's is 5A, so this may be why I never experienced the power-on issues you mentioned.
Eurorack cases are absurdly expensive even from Behringer. I guess I stick to building wood cabinets...
This has been my choice as well, aside from the GO case.
I bought my Go case on Ebay for half the retail price. Came in pristine condition. Cant fault it 😀
250 for a plastic case? WOW, now i know how behringer is making money....
I'm sure you're paying for that 6" power brick cord 😁 btw, Amazon lists this at $349 ($289 discount) a.co/d/ho9oCnm