Thank you so much for this video. I bought a couple of hall effect replacement sticks for my Dualshock 4 thinking it will be an easy job like with the Switch Joy-Cons but ended up biting off a bit more than I can chew. While I'm not using TMR sticks in my case, this video is the most no-nonsense guide on the entire replacement process from start to finish including calibration.
Thank you for the kind words and I'm glad I could help you out. Good luck with the mod if you haven't replaced it already, or have fun gaming if you did!
TMR is more energy efficient - longer lasting battery Easier to calibrate, therefor more accurate. Less jitter, next to non existent. And less latency on average. Think of it as this: the great circularity of Ginfull v5 HE joysticks, but with the little latency of Favor Union HE joysticks. And comes with different thumb caps as a bonus
Ali Express, It is the Pro'skit SS331, if you are going to buy it, make sure you get the one with the correct voltage for your country, there are two or three different versions.
Just did the fix and everything works but the r3 button the right joystick when you press it down it clicks but it does not work Did i do something wrong or could my new stick be bad sorry im new at this and kinda confused
It is very hard to diagnose it over text. If you are comfortable with DMing me, you can via discord, my username is djBaro, then you can send pictures of the solder work Just some general tips I can give from prior experience diagnosing this issue: check for cold solder joints. Use flux and if needed higher heat to reflow the solder on the joints
Hey, this is a very broad question and it depends on your needs. So it is hard for me to give an exact recommendation, but I hope I can inform you so you can pick one that fits your needs. I don't know what you will solder on, so I don't know if my tools will be good for your needs. I bought the Atten 969 soldering station (currently 45 euro, I don't remember the price back when I bought it) with the idea to use for a long time and often, but as I also just started out I did not want to break the bank on a very expensive one. I have later bought new tips on ali express for 10 euro ish, because the original tip that comes with the Atten 969 is a bit meh, other shapes work better for different use cases and I mainly use it in joysticks, so the knife like tip works best for me. I first bought a copper set, they corroded quickly and I threw them away. I then bought a set of the normal ones but I mainly use the knife like tip; the one in my installation videos. I just noticed while getting the link that the tips on the images are not 100% the same as the ones I got. I only have 2 knife like tips. a.aliexpress.com/_Ex5Y6eZ. The idea is the same though, different size tips are useful, you do not need to buy this exact one from this seller. If you do get a different one, make sure the tips are pre-tinned. It will save you a headache and corrosion. So those are my tools. In general I would say the wattage of the soldering iron is the most important thing. Soldering stations and irons separately will in general have higher wattage. If you will work on controllers mostly like I do, I would recommend 60W or more. The DualSense motherboard is quite thick and requires me to put the tip on the pins for a few seconds longer when soldering to ground compared to thinner DualShock 4 motherboard, no problem, but it will be problematic for even bigger motherboards (like the console itself) with more layers. So, research what you need for your usages. The rest of the price ranges is mostly based on built quality or brand name like Hakko. You can optionally get a hot air gun, I don't have a hot air gun yet, but one I want to buy soon for a video is the Atten ST862D. This one has good reviews. Not a budget price for beginners, but I do include it here in case you may want it in the future. Other tools that will come in handy for desoldering are soldering pumps and solder wick. For pumps, get one with a replaceable silicon tip. I bought this one a week ago: a.aliexpress.com/_EHuGBbR. AVOID soldering pumps that look similar to these: a.aliexpress.com/_EvpX205. When I began I bought this one (from other seller, but they are all the same), I spent more time maintaining this pump, cleaning it and unclogging it, rather than desoldering. Not worth it. Replaceable tips are much easier. Electric pumps and fully automated vacuums also exist, if you intend on doing it more often, you can spend some more on one. I use the Pro'sKit SS-331H (H stands for the voltage version, may change depending on your country). But there are also other options out there that may better fit your budget. Solder wick can be useful too, though I personally haven't found a cheap and good working one on Ali express yet. And since I don't use it very often, I haven't looked into getting a better quality one. If you buy one, make sure the wick has rosin/flux in it. Last two things, tin wire and flux. Tin wire is again broad. There is leaded and lead-free wires. Leaded is easier to work with and has a lower melting temperature. Lead-free is more difficult to work with and is also what comes in all electronics as the default solder used, required by law. Lead has toxic fumes, so ventilation is highly recommend if you are exposed to it for long periods and often. Fume extractors can help with that, you can buy one, or iFixit has a guide to build your own. I personally keep a window open and have a room fan blow it outside, someone else I know who lives in Hawaii just solders outside because the weather allows him to do so. So a fume extractor is not necessary, but recommended if you have no other solutions. Leaded is in general quite preferred due to it being easy to work with. Most tin wires are hollow and also contain some rosin in them, I recommend getting those, it makes life a bit easier. Thinner wires allow you to more accurately measure how much you need for a solder job. Mine is 0.5mm. www.eleshop.nl/premium-soldeertin-60-40-loodhoudend.html, cheap and has worked well so far. I always hear Kester is a top tier brand with this leaded solder. a.co/d/3BUyay0. I don't know exactly how cheap and expensive solder varies if their composition is the same, I haven't done research on that. If I can answer that question I might go for Kester next if it really matters. One thing I can say though, is whichever solder you get, it will likely last you for a very long time if not for every future soldering job you will have. I have mine for 2 years now and still haven't finished it. Definitely worth it for 10 euro. If Kester one is better, I don't see a reason to not have a one-time purchase on a better quality solder which will last me for years. But right now, I don't know know if the different brands matter. There are tons of different fluxes on the market. If you live in the US, Stirri asm tf flux is one that I can highly recommend. It is RoHS compliant, meaning it is safe to breath in and the overall quality is top notch. This TH-camr has a nice review on them: th-cam.com/video/805T3wvLxVg/w-d-xo.html I live in The Netherlands, having it shipped here makes it quite expensive, so I opted for Ali Express, Kingbo RMA 218. Not RoHS compliant, and even if it says it is, there is no real way to validate that claim. Stirri is a reputable brand. Stirri used be named Amtech, so you will see a lot of Amtech ASM flux on Ali Express, those are obviously fake as they don't go by Amtech anymore. But that does not say they automatically don't perform good, just not as well as the original and are not RoHS compliant. Other tools you can use are ESD-safe tweezers for holding wires while soldering, and a PCB holder. Stirri has a huge sale on their website now, I am tempted to buy some even though I have tons of Kingbo already. Flux has an expiration date, so I may have to wait till next year black friday and buy it then, otherwise I am wasting the Kingbo flux. Also a tip: store flux sealed in fridge to prolong the shelf life. I took my time on this comment, I hope it helps and let me know if you have more questions
Hey so, I replied to your awesome comment but I just noticed it got deleted, maybe because I tried to include a aliexpress link? omg I can't write it again😭
@@djBaro_official Basically I was thanking you for all the great information and I take your advice to heart. Also, I found out that in my country soldering wire with lead can be sold only for professional use. I will try to send the link again for a wire from ali
You're welcome! The deletion probably is because of the link. I don't even see it in my "held for review" comments. TH-cam straight up deletes them. You can send it to my discord, my tag is djBaro.
They need calibration. This also already happens at the factory, where they put in the original joysticks. The calibration is only meant to work for those specific joysticks, because of small tolerances, I think 5% or 10% +/- in the resistance of a potentiometer. For joysticks such as hall effects or TMR, this calibration for normal potentiometers is really bad. You need to use the website for calibration, or install a calibration board. The website is the easiest and cheapest (free) method.
friend, please could you put the link to this soldering gun, this solder sucker that you took from the analogs, please give the link, the name of that solder sucker that you used in your video, thank you very much.
It is the Pro'sKit ss-331 available from numerous sellers on Ali Express. There are different versions that require different voltages, so buy the one that matches your country's outlet voltages. For me in The Netherlands I bought SS-331H. It didn't come with a European power cable, but it included an adapter and it has the correct voltage so I just went with it anyways.
Understandable! There are also other more affordable options on Amazon that have a tip that heats up, but instead of vacuum they have a manual pump. Or even cheaper is just the manual pump without heating element. Just make sure you get one with a replaceable silicone tip. Then it will last you a while and you will only need to replace the tips every once in a while
@djBaro_official yes I already have a pump without heat, but honestly I don't feel good using it because I can't coordinate the solder iron and the pump...for the moment I use a yihua station which has iron and hot air and I am finding good, maybe one day I will upgrade to the solder pump💪🏻✌🏻 Thank you for your time
I actually did sign up for the Xbox Series controller yesterday. I will have to buy a controller to do the mod on now, then I will record and upload that one too, so stay tuned :)
The TMR? Have you checked whether the solder joints all make good contact? That they're not cold joints or bridged somewhere. If it looks fine and still doesn't work, I highly recommend contacting the seller for replacement
DualShock 4 TMR is still in testing phase, you can sign up for the test in AKNES's discord server and receive them from the company. In return they ask you to send test data over, which is not a lot of work, just a google form. After it leaves testing, you can purchase the TMR on AKNES's Amazon US product page, Dualsense TMR is already available for purchase.
It depends on which hall effect you are referring to. It has lower energy consumption, so battery will last longer, don't forget that. The calibration process has been a lot easier than any hall effect I've tried. It combines the low latency from Alps and Favor Union hall effect and the great circularity from Ginfull hall effect into one product. That to me is also noteworthy, as you used to have to make the compromise as both Favor Union and Ginfull have downsides
I simply had it to the maximum temperature it can get, 480 Celcius. Lower would probably work too but I find I sometimes have to redo it because I am not holding the tip to the pins for a long enough time. This way I minimize the time I have to heat up the board.
Thank you so much for this video. I bought a couple of hall effect replacement sticks for my Dualshock 4 thinking it will be an easy job like with the Switch Joy-Cons but ended up biting off a bit more than I can chew. While I'm not using TMR sticks in my case, this video is the most no-nonsense guide on the entire replacement process from start to finish including calibration.
Thank you for the kind words and I'm glad I could help you out. Good luck with the mod if you haven't replaced it already, or have fun gaming if you did!
Calibrating sticks have come a long way
Got em on, thanks man, you the man!
Glad I could help!
this cant develop drift just like hall effect joystick?
Correct
@@djBaro_official but this is an update of traditional hall effect joystick doesnt?
Yes, the TMR joysticks are more advanced than hall effects joysticks.
Though they both are permanent solutions to stickdrift
@@djBaro_official nice but whats diference with tradicional hall effect and TMR
TMR is more energy efficient - longer lasting battery
Easier to calibrate, therefor more accurate.
Less jitter, next to non existent.
And less latency on average.
Think of it as this: the great circularity of Ginfull v5 HE joysticks, but with the little latency of Favor Union HE joysticks.
And comes with different thumb caps as a bonus
Where did you buy that gun at? Thanks ahead
Ali Express, It is the Pro'skit SS331, if you are going to buy it, make sure you get the one with the correct voltage for your country, there are two or three different versions.
Just did the fix and everything works but the r3 button the right joystick when you press it down it clicks but it does not work
Did i do something wrong or could my new stick be bad sorry im new at this and kinda confused
It is very hard to diagnose it over text. If you are comfortable with DMing me, you can via discord, my username is djBaro, then you can send pictures of the solder work
Just some general tips I can give from prior experience diagnosing this issue: check for cold solder joints. Use flux and if needed higher heat to reflow the solder on the joints
Hi, what soldering tool would you recommend for someone who never soldered before ?
Hey, this is a very broad question and it depends on your needs. So it is hard for me to give an exact recommendation, but I hope I can inform you so you can pick one that fits your needs.
I don't know what you will solder on, so I don't know if my tools will be good for your needs. I bought the Atten 969 soldering station (currently 45 euro, I don't remember the price back when I bought it) with the idea to use for a long time and often, but as I also just started out I did not want to break the bank on a very expensive one. I have later bought new tips on ali express for 10 euro ish, because the original tip that comes with the Atten 969 is a bit meh, other shapes work better for different use cases and I mainly use it in joysticks, so the knife like tip works best for me. I first bought a copper set, they corroded quickly and I threw them away. I then bought a set of the normal ones but I mainly use the knife like tip; the one in my installation videos. I just noticed while getting the link that the tips on the images are not 100% the same as the ones I got. I only have 2 knife like tips. a.aliexpress.com/_Ex5Y6eZ. The idea is the same though, different size tips are useful, you do not need to buy this exact one from this seller. If you do get a different one, make sure the tips are pre-tinned. It will save you a headache and corrosion.
So those are my tools. In general I would say the wattage of the soldering iron is the most important thing. Soldering stations and irons separately will in general have higher wattage. If you will work on controllers mostly like I do, I would recommend 60W or more. The DualSense motherboard is quite thick and requires me to put the tip on the pins for a few seconds longer when soldering to ground compared to thinner DualShock 4 motherboard, no problem, but it will be problematic for even bigger motherboards (like the console itself) with more layers. So, research what you need for your usages. The rest of the price ranges is mostly based on built quality or brand name like Hakko.
You can optionally get a hot air gun, I don't have a hot air gun yet, but one I want to buy soon for a video is the Atten ST862D. This one has good reviews. Not a budget price for beginners, but I do include it here in case you may want it in the future.
Other tools that will come in handy for desoldering are soldering pumps and solder wick. For pumps, get one with a replaceable silicon tip. I bought this one a week ago: a.aliexpress.com/_EHuGBbR.
AVOID soldering pumps that look similar to these: a.aliexpress.com/_EvpX205. When I began I bought this one (from other seller, but they are all the same), I spent more time maintaining this pump, cleaning it and unclogging it, rather than desoldering. Not worth it. Replaceable tips are much easier.
Electric pumps and fully automated vacuums also exist, if you intend on doing it more often, you can spend some more on one. I use the Pro'sKit SS-331H (H stands for the voltage version, may change depending on your country). But there are also other options out there that may better fit your budget.
Solder wick can be useful too, though I personally haven't found a cheap and good working one on Ali express yet. And since I don't use it very often, I haven't looked into getting a better quality one. If you buy one, make sure the wick has rosin/flux in it.
Last two things, tin wire and flux. Tin wire is again broad. There is leaded and lead-free wires. Leaded is easier to work with and has a lower melting temperature. Lead-free is more difficult to work with and is also what comes in all electronics as the default solder used, required by law. Lead has toxic fumes, so ventilation is highly recommend if you are exposed to it for long periods and often. Fume extractors can help with that, you can buy one, or iFixit has a guide to build your own. I personally keep a window open and have a room fan blow it outside, someone else I know who lives in Hawaii just solders outside because the weather allows him to do so. So a fume extractor is not necessary, but recommended if you have no other solutions. Leaded is in general quite preferred due to it being easy to work with. Most tin wires are hollow and also contain some rosin in them, I recommend getting those, it makes life a bit easier. Thinner wires allow you to more accurately measure how much you need for a solder job. Mine is 0.5mm. www.eleshop.nl/premium-soldeertin-60-40-loodhoudend.html, cheap and has worked well so far. I always hear Kester is a top tier brand with this leaded solder. a.co/d/3BUyay0. I don't know exactly how cheap and expensive solder varies if their composition is the same, I haven't done research on that. If I can answer that question I might go for Kester next if it really matters. One thing I can say though, is whichever solder you get, it will likely last you for a very long time if not for every future soldering job you will have. I have mine for 2 years now and still haven't finished it. Definitely worth it for 10 euro. If Kester one is better, I don't see a reason to not have a one-time purchase on a better quality solder which will last me for years. But right now, I don't know know if the different brands matter.
There are tons of different fluxes on the market. If you live in the US, Stirri asm tf flux is one that I can highly recommend. It is RoHS compliant, meaning it is safe to breath in and the overall quality is top notch. This TH-camr has a nice review on them: th-cam.com/video/805T3wvLxVg/w-d-xo.html
I live in The Netherlands, having it shipped here makes it quite expensive, so I opted for Ali Express, Kingbo RMA 218. Not RoHS compliant, and even if it says it is, there is no real way to validate that claim. Stirri is a reputable brand. Stirri used be named Amtech, so you will see a lot of Amtech ASM flux on Ali Express, those are obviously fake as they don't go by Amtech anymore. But that does not say they automatically don't perform good, just not as well as the original and are not RoHS compliant.
Other tools you can use are ESD-safe tweezers for holding wires while soldering, and a PCB holder.
Stirri has a huge sale on their website now, I am tempted to buy some even though I have tons of Kingbo already. Flux has an expiration date, so I may have to wait till next year black friday and buy it then, otherwise I am wasting the Kingbo flux. Also a tip: store flux sealed in fridge to prolong the shelf life.
I took my time on this comment, I hope it helps and let me know if you have more questions
Hey so, I replied to your awesome comment but I just noticed it got deleted, maybe because I tried to include a aliexpress link? omg I can't write it again😭
@@djBaro_official Basically I was thanking you for all the great information and I take your advice to heart. Also, I found out that in my country soldering wire with lead can be sold only for professional use. I will try to send the link again for a wire from ali
nope, I can't post the link even if i split it into two separate comments. Damn you youtube
You're welcome!
The deletion probably is because of the link. I don't even see it in my "held for review" comments. TH-cam straight up deletes them. You can send it to my discord, my tag is djBaro.
Do they absolutely need to be calibrated after installing them? Are there any joystick replacements that don't need this step?
They need calibration.
This also already happens at the factory, where they put in the original joysticks. The calibration is only meant to work for those specific joysticks, because of small tolerances, I think 5% or 10% +/- in the resistance of a potentiometer.
For joysticks such as hall effects or TMR, this calibration for normal potentiometers is really bad. You need to use the website for calibration, or install a calibration board. The website is the easiest and cheapest (free) method.
Could you please send me the calibration page? I was using the python script to calibrate but yours is bettee
Sure. I will put the links in the description.
friend, please could you put the link to this soldering gun, this solder sucker that you took from the analogs, please give the link, the name of that solder sucker that you used in your video, thank you very much.
It is called Pro'skit SS-331. You can find it on Ali Express sold by multiple sellers.
Thank you.
you're welcome
Hello, could you link the solder pump your using in this video? Thank you
It is the Pro'sKit ss-331 available from numerous sellers on Ali Express. There are different versions that require different voltages, so buy the one that matches your country's outlet voltages. For me in The Netherlands I bought SS-331H. It didn't come with a European power cable, but it included an adapter and it has the correct voltage so I just went with it anyways.
@@djBaro_official ohh I checked it, it's way too expensive for me at the moment😅
Understandable!
There are also other more affordable options on Amazon that have a tip that heats up, but instead of vacuum they have a manual pump. Or even cheaper is just the manual pump without heating element. Just make sure you get one with a replaceable silicone tip. Then it will last you a while and you will only need to replace the tips every once in a while
@djBaro_official yes I already have a pump without heat, but honestly I don't feel good using it because I can't coordinate the solder iron and the pump...for the moment I use a yihua station which has iron and hot air and I am finding good, maybe one day I will upgrade to the solder pump💪🏻✌🏻
Thank you for your time
You're welcome. Thank you as well for watching!
Can you please make also a video for xbox series controllers. Is it possible to calibrate them with the calibration tool on xbox?
I actually did sign up for the Xbox Series controller yesterday. I will have to buy a controller to do the mod on now, then I will record and upload that one too, so stay tuned :)
th-cam.com/video/AzkJkJS99XA/w-d-xo.html here is the video for Xbox series controller.
👍
the analog on mine came broken on one
The TMR? Have you checked whether the solder joints all make good contact? That they're not cold joints or bridged somewhere.
If it looks fine and still doesn't work, I highly recommend contacting the seller for replacement
Can i put these on my ps4 clone controller?
The calibration website does not work for fake dualshock controllers
멋지다! 😮
Are the new sticks higher than the old ones?
I am not too sure, I do not see a significant height difference
Where can i purchase the sticks?
DualShock 4 TMR is still in testing phase, you can sign up for the test in AKNES's discord server and receive them from the company. In return they ask you to send test data over, which is not a lot of work, just a google form. After it leaves testing, you can purchase the TMR on AKNES's Amazon US product page, Dualsense TMR is already available for purchase.
@djBaro_official Thank you for the help, I joined the server and signed up
awesome
Aliexpress Gulikit official store
@@southernstyle8835That too yeah. They closed the application for testers. So Ali Express via Gulikit, or Amazon once AKNES has them in stock
TMR has 0 advantage over hall effect other than lower power consumption, thus lower thermals.
It depends on which hall effect you are referring to.
It has lower energy consumption, so battery will last longer, don't forget that.
The calibration process has been a lot easier than any hall effect I've tried.
It combines the low latency from Alps and Favor Union hall effect and the great circularity from Ginfull hall effect into one product. That to me is also noteworthy, as you used to have to make the compromise as both Favor Union and Ginfull have downsides
the sensors are better no?
@djBaro_official they both have the same latency, and they aren't more "accurate" People don't really care about battery enough to get these either
@@Toufan1-gr4br no but if it's what u want go for it
@djBaro_official idk anything about installing them and calibrating them because I just buy controllers, not customize them, but that is a fair point
what temperature did you set for the solder vacuum ?
I simply had it to the maximum temperature it can get, 480 Celcius. Lower would probably work too but I find I sometimes have to redo it because I am not holding the tip to the pins for a long enough time. This way I minimize the time I have to heat up the board.