So, after exactly 5 months after making this video I wanted to give an update on the installed Hall effects: they are still working absolute perfect! I really like the feel of the sticks & they perform without issue (no lagging/ jitter or drift). But be aware of one thing: if you battery is low in your controller they can possible get a bit laggy - just make sure your battery has a decent charge or use a USB Cable. Now regarding this video: THANK YOU for the big support on this video! 14k views is just insane, I hope the video has been of some value to you :). I plan to make some more videos on Hall effects: - one where I try the other (blue/green) Hall effect in my other PS4 controller. - one where I try Hall effects for the Xbox in a Xbox one controller In both cases I want to test the longevity of the sticks and if it is positive, I might make it an actual service I do, but that lies in the future :). So once more, thanks for watching, and you’ll hear from me again in a few months/ when I encounter trouble with the sticks.
the biggest challenge is desoldering, especially on double-layer PCBs. iirc, the Hakko FR-300 recommends at least 450°C for these boards. also double-layer PCBs have solder connections on both sides makes the desoldering process even more difficult
Absolutely true - the unleaded solder that is used nowadays makes it even more difficult. On older controllers (PS2, original Xbox) it takes me maybe a minute to remove a analog stick. On these ones it takes easily 15 minutes. I have my iron around 335 C, which in combination with low melt solder is enough to remove the analog stick.
That would be correct - Sony had them in their sixaxis / DualShock 3 controllers which are from the same period. Shame they got rid of it in the ps4 / ps5 controllers.
@@cr_tech2000i guess they believed alps was better but the whole dual sense edge stick module replacement that they’re doing makes me believe that they want us to keep buying replacements instead of having an “end all be all” option
Thanks for the kind words! Maybe you got an older version of these Halleffects. In the video I use a version 3 stick, I believe version 1 and 2 had problems with latency and/or jittery responses
@@cr_tech2000v5s are out now, personally I think it’s a scam because why does it take 5 versions to get joysticks right? Also they don’t say in the description about what the difference is anyway.
@@H786... I didn’t know they were already at v5’s. No idea what could be different to be honest, the sticks I installed in this video are still working fine till this day (v3’s). As far as I know you should at least not be getting v1’s & v2’s, those have problems with lag/ jittering. Guess time will tell if v5’s are any better then v3’s.
Don’t remember exactly for this video, but on average I use a temperature between 355-390C, airflow speed 50-70% (but that is in combination with the use of low melt solder to remove the stick faster).
I honestly only have experience with these PS4 orange Hall effect analogs in the video, so I can’t tell you what the ‘best’ Hall effect is. The biggest difference as far as I know is in how you calibrate them (for the orange ones you need to do that by hand and for the blue ones you need software).
@@8bitnation419 not sure if that was available at the time of recording (this was recording quite a while before uploading) - but I do indeed mostly software calibration nowadays instead of manually
Yes, in my experience is best to add some solder (especially on these boards with unleaded solder) before trying to desolder. I usually add leaded solder and low melt solder to lower the melting temperature to make it easy to desolder those analog sticks.
@@cr_tech2000 yeah learned something by this. Anyway do u have any experience about this error? th-cam.com/video/wCobT7rqN48/w-d-xo.html i unplugged everything, just have power connected
Oof, that is some serious drift. Few questions: 1. are these Hall effects or normal sticks/ 2. Did you attempt any type of calibration? Also (if you worked on the sticks) make sure that your solder joints are clean so they make a good connection (bad connection can cause for the potentiometers to not register properly). Maybe check the connections from stick to board with a multimeter to ensure good connection/ confirm there are no toen traces. Hope that helps!
First time someone commented! Thanks, appreciate that! Link for hall effects: nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006399100465.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.664f61d71Iwep8&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld (make sure you select PS4 if you want those)
I do not wish to do my hair with this hot air gun mate haha. It is a hot air gun - just a cheap one used at a relative low temperature (< 400C). A high quality hot air used at 450 C will indeed do a better job than I did.
So, after exactly 5 months after making this video I wanted to give an update on the installed Hall effects: they are still working absolute perfect! I really like the feel of the sticks & they perform without issue (no lagging/ jitter or drift).
But be aware of one thing: if you battery is low in your controller they can possible get a bit laggy - just make sure your battery has a decent charge or use a USB Cable.
Now regarding this video: THANK YOU for the big support on this video! 14k views is just insane, I hope the video has been of some value to you :).
I plan to make some more videos on Hall effects:
- one where I try the other (blue/green) Hall effect in my other PS4 controller.
- one where I try Hall effects for the Xbox in a Xbox one controller
In both cases I want to test the longevity of the sticks and if it is positive, I might make it an actual service I do, but that lies in the future :).
So once more, thanks for watching, and you’ll hear from me again in a few months/ when I encounter trouble with the sticks.
Man that was exactily what i was looking for but did not find it when i searched,nice video dude.
the biggest challenge is desoldering, especially on double-layer PCBs. iirc, the Hakko FR-300 recommends at least 450°C for these boards. also double-layer PCBs have solder connections on both sides makes the desoldering process even more difficult
Absolutely true - the unleaded solder that is used nowadays makes it even more difficult. On older controllers (PS2, original Xbox) it takes me maybe a minute to remove a analog stick.
On these ones it takes easily 15 minutes.
I have my iron around 335 C, which in combination with low melt solder is enough to remove the analog stick.
I underestimated how much work is required to install Hall Effects lol, wow.
It's not that much work this guy is just making it look complicated because he doesn't have no proper tools
the hall effect stick technology has been in the market since 2008 I believe, but companies just started popularizing them mow
That would be correct - Sony had them in their sixaxis / DualShock 3 controllers which are from the same period. Shame they got rid of it in the ps4 / ps5 controllers.
@@cr_tech2000i guess they believed alps was better but the whole dual sense edge stick module replacement that they’re doing makes me believe that they want us to keep buying replacements instead of having an “end all be all” option
Installing this type of stick on joy con now looks like piece of cake 😅
Great video. Keep on with it. Interesting result, when i have changed to hall effect analogs it was so jittery on the game pad tester.
Thanks for the kind words! Maybe you got an older version of these Halleffects. In the video I use a version 3 stick, I believe version 1 and 2 had problems with latency and/or jittery responses
@@cr_tech2000v5s are out now, personally I think it’s a scam because why does it take 5 versions to get joysticks right? Also they don’t say in the description about what the difference is anyway.
@@H786... I didn’t know they were already at v5’s. No idea what could be different to be honest, the sticks I installed in this video are still working fine till this day (v3’s). As far as I know you should at least not be getting v1’s & v2’s, those have problems with lag/ jittering. Guess time will tell if v5’s are any better then v3’s.
Believe me when I say that a better solder pump will make the work easier
You’re absolutely right. The desolder pump stopped working shortly after this vid. So I got the ENGINEER SS-02 and has been working wonderful so far!
What temperature do you use to unsolder with air ,the stick?
Don’t remember exactly for this video, but on average I use a temperature between 355-390C, airflow speed 50-70% (but that is in combination with the use of low melt solder to remove the stick faster).
There are different hall effect but what is the best hall effect?
I honestly only have experience with these PS4 orange Hall effect analogs in the video, so I can’t tell you what the ‘best’ Hall effect is. The biggest difference as far as I know is in how you calibrate them (for the orange ones you need to do that by hand and for the blue ones you need software).
You could have just put it all back together and used the Hall Effect Calibration app. No need for manually calibrating it.
@@8bitnation419 not sure if that was available at the time of recording (this was recording quite a while before uploading) - but I do indeed mostly software calibration nowadays instead of manually
Pls like this man video and subscribe ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤🎉
Bro I have an original Dualshock 3 the issue is suddenly both joysticks stop working as if their sensibility decreases any time 😢 what could be?
Sounds like the analogs are shot honestly. Maybe try connect the controller to a PC and test it with gamepad tester.
so you put metal in first and desolder it after?
Yes, in my experience is best to add some solder (especially on these boards with unleaded solder) before trying to desolder.
I usually add leaded solder and low melt solder to lower the melting temperature to make it easy to desolder those analog sticks.
@@cr_tech2000 ah yes thank u thank u, i broke my board anyway lol. It was too hard for amateur like me
@@melankolie1343 ah that’s unfortunate, but hey we all gotta start learning somewhere right :)
@@cr_tech2000 yeah learned something by this. Anyway do u have any experience about this error?
th-cam.com/video/wCobT7rqN48/w-d-xo.html
i unplugged everything, just have power connected
Oof, that is some serious drift. Few questions: 1. are these Hall effects or normal sticks/ 2. Did you attempt any type of calibration?
Also (if you worked on the sticks) make sure that your solder joints are clean so they make a good connection (bad connection can cause for the potentiometers to not register properly).
Maybe check the connections from stick to board with a multimeter to ensure good connection/ confirm there are no toen traces.
Hope that helps!
Link to product?
Good vid BTW
First time someone commented! Thanks, appreciate that! Link for hall effects: nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006399100465.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.664f61d71Iwep8&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
(make sure you select PS4 if you want those)
Does it need reballing?
No reballing required - you will only need to desolder the old analog stick and then resolder the new Hall effect stick
Thanks!
Who originally designed ds controllers why he is quite while are struggling
Hi is it possible to put Inside the hall Effects joystick on Xbox Elite series 2
Honestly not sure if they make these for the elite 2. These ones in the video are made for PS4 controllers and will not work in Xbox/PS5 controllers.
I hate working on PS5 controllers. I have no issues with xbox controllers
Hi guys
you need a real hot air station,this ,,hairdryer" just cant deliver,it will take less than a minute to remove those sticks just with hot air
I do not wish to do my hair with this hot air gun mate haha. It is a hot air gun - just a cheap one used at a relative low temperature (< 400C). A high quality hot air used at 450 C will indeed do a better job than I did.