I'm glad I finally have gotten around to doing it haha, hope you enjoyed it and can use it as a tutorial. I only applied for the Dualsense and Dualshock 4 testing first, which is why I hadn't been able to record this one immediately. After seeing comments that people wanted to see an Xbox video as well, I decided to go for it and bought an Xbox controller, as well as a Switch Pro controller. Coincidentally the Switch Pro TMR joysticks arrived half an hour ago so I will be recording it today or tomorrow too.
I can only advise anyone who doesn’t own a professional desoldering gun against attempting this modification. I tried it myself and eventually managed, with considerable effort, to desolder the old joysticks. However, without a professional desoldering gun, it’s so difficult that I likely damaged a micro-component in the process, which unfortunately resulted in the right GuliKit joystick not working properly after installation. Unfortunately, it couldn’t be fixed even with the Xbox Accessories app. It’s better to buy a third-party controller with integrated Hall-effect sticks » in the end, it saves both money and nerves.
I am considering doing a video where I show different ways to desolder the joysticks as people may not have the budget for an automatic solder sucker. It would be a long format video where I desolder one joystick using each method with minimal edits to show the ups and downs of each. I still need to buy some equipment for that as I do not own a hot air station and small manual pump, which are some of the methods that I want to show. I am curious though, is that something you would be interested in seeing? I will do it on DualSense controllers though, as I have them laying around and need to repair regardless. They also still have the factory solder, which gives a better representation on the difficulty
This can easily be done with a cheap electric desoldering pump. But yes, attempting to desolder the lead-free solder with just a soldering iron and copper wick will lead to ripped/damaged PCB pads for the impatient or inexperienced.
You should be able to use the software I use for the orange Ginful as well. Though only if it is an Xbox Series controller. Older generation controllers do not work in the app
In Game test footage pls. (Call of Duty, 0% deadzones, 13 - 13 sensitivity Linear Response testing the sensitivity of stick near neutral, Input latency, input consistency and smoothness) This would be a great help deciding whether or not to buy these.
I'm planning on publishing a more in depth review of these joysticks in September as I want more playtime with the Xbox controller first, and my recording set up is at my dorm room, where I will go to late August. This video and my two prior videos for Dualsense and Dualshock 4 are only meant to show how to install them. I have one more installation video for the Switch Pro coming up in a few days. In terms of the games I test them with, it will be games I already play now, e.g. I just finished a playthough of Horizon Forbidden West with the Dualsense, while I play Rocket League with the Dualshock 4, and occasionally with the Dualsense too. I don't play call of duty, so testing with that game would not be good for me as I'm generally not good in that game. Rocket League is a game that goes down to 0% deadzone too, so I am going to mainly use that as in game test footage, I already have a good testing methodology for that gameand found interesting results which I want to include in my review when I upload it.
If you have the right supplies to desolder a through-hole, it can be done. This can be just an iron and solder wick, a manual suction pump, electric pump, desoldering gun like I used or a heatgun. The first two are the cheaper options, which will be trickier but not impossible.
Can you use the original thumb stick cover with these new tmr kits? Im considering them but since ive got an all white controller off xbox design lab the black silver would look a bit off on my controller unfortunately. Als is it possible to see a video of these installed on a first gen elite controller?
I don't think there is a calibration tool for first gen elite controller, correct me if I am wrong. Without a way to calibrate them, it is not good to use. If there is a way to calibrate them, let me know how, then I can consider making a video about it. And original thumbcaps do fit yea
I've been seeing a lot of people buying the 8bitdo Pro 2 controller and SN30. Can you make a tutorial replacing the joysticks to hall effect or TMR Ps4 sticks? That would really mean a lot!
On their Amazon product pages it mentions they already have hall effect joysticks in them. Were you not aware of that or did you mean to have a video regardless that there already is one in, just to show how to put a different pair of joysticks in?
@djBaro_official The 2021 version that was initially released does not have them. I am fully aware that they were just released and does have Hall Effect Sticks. That’s why I was simply asking for a vid lol
I understand it now, thanks! I will put it on my list of video ideas. I cannot promise yet whether it is possible to find replacement hall effects for those with the correct voltages. My next repair video will likely be about many different ways to desolder joysticks, but I need to save up somewhat before I can purchase all the necessary tools. I hope that video will be a nice foundation for any future joystick replacement video I do, where people who want to know how to desolder joysticks, can see various methods in that video on how to do it with cheaper tools. Then, in the future when I get my hands on one of the controllers you mentioned, I can do a teardown and research which joysticks can fit in there for others to replace. I do know how when or if that video will be uploaded however, e.g. if I cannot find suitable joysticks.
Do you know if it is possible to install the Xbox one on the Razer Wolverine Ultimate and the Dualshock 4 on the Razer Raiju without having any problems?
Sorry I do not know, it depends on the voltage and circuitry of this potentiometer pins whether it is possible. You also need to have a way to calibrate them
It depends what is your budget. My first and only soldering iron is the one in the video, the Atten AT-989, around 50 euro. The soldering tips I bought in a pack of all types of tips from Ali Express for few euro which I use on that iron, they were pre-tinned and work great, so far only needed two types of tips only, the rest are unused. The chisel tip is the one I use the most, truly great for the joysticks, but not with small SMD type of soldering, which I don't do. And with that, basically any other tool I have I also got from Ali Express. There are several ways to desolder through hole components, I used to have a very cheap manual desoldering pump (those blue silver ones), avoid those no matter what. They are a pain to work with. Invest in a better desoldering pump with a replaceable tip like this one: amzn.eu/d/5DjKUe2 I don't own this one, but it is one of the better desoldering pumps so you know how they look like. The desoldering vacuum gun I have is the Pro'sKit SS-31H and I buy aquarium cotton filters to cut them to size which is cheaper than buying the original filters. the Pro'skit is significantly more expensive at around 130 euro on Ali Express, but for the number of times I need it, for me it was worth it. If you don't use something like this often, I would recommend a manual desolder pump that looks like the one I linked, with replaceable tips, maybe one on Ali Express that is cheaper. For Solder tin, it is easier if it has a rosin core. The thinner the wire, the more precise you can be with the amount of solder you use, good for SMD work, but still works fine with throughhole where you need more solder relatively speaking. I use a 60/40 mix solder tin, which was around 10 euro and in almost two years of using it, I still haven't run out. It isn't the best but I can do anything I want with it, so I think it is something you don't have to spend a lot in if you are trying to spend little money. Even if there is rosin in the wire, you will need some flux. Any flux is better than no flux, so if you are on a tight budget, there are plenty ones on Ali Express that are performing good enough, but not the best. Most of the ones on that website are clones either way. If you don't want to go for a pump, you can also go for solder wick, it can be more difficult to work with but people have done it and it is fairly cheap. Also make sure here you buy one which contains flux within the wick. Heatgun is also an option but I do not own one and don't know a lot about it so I can't recommend one easily. One I have in my wishlist which I know from another technician works great, is the Atten ST-862D, not cheap, which is why I don't own it lol. Though I am just listing out some possibilities in each price range, I hope you can find something that suits you.
You can purchase them on Amazon from seller AKNES. Or on Ali Express from Gulikit directly or AKNES too. There are other sellers, I don't know which of them are official resellers of Gulikit. AKNES is.
Gulikit store: a.aliexpress.com/_EvuKSPX Aknes store: - Ali Express: a.aliexpress.com/_EzCAI53 - Amazon (US): www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8VDZBPF?th=1&psc=1 unfortunately like you say the Xbox is now unavailable. So I hope the other links do help you. I see a lot of other TH-camrs mention this when sending links for products that they are not sponsored for, idk if that is mandatory to say. But for transparency, I don't get paid for sharing the links
Just did my replacement and the left stick is stuck only going all the way to the right and only detecting up and down movement. Do you think it's a joystick issue?
It may be a cold solder joint. Try to reflow the solder joints of the sensor on the x axis. If that does not work, you can send me a photo so I can check whether something is wrong with the motherboard. My discord is djBaro
Very slighty, it may not be noticable in game. Axis 1 is the only one that is affected and moves from 0.00310 to -0.00053. So around 0.3% difference in vertical movement when pressing in the trigger
I did two controller & got a very strange occurence on the rigth stick. I do the calibration & everything works fine, no strange issue. Then if I move the stick long enough, the calibration start to get out of range. If I reboot the controller : calibration is fine again. Anyone else have seen that ?
Yeah... That sucks. Almost makes me wonder if the reason Microsoft didn't make calibration possible on Xbox One controller simply because they didn't want to, rather than not being possible
Editing the video as I speak! It took me a bit longer to get started because I got sick, thank you for the patience! I have a choice in front of me which I could your opinion on. I can upload the installation part of the video tomorrow when it is edited, but without showing how to calibrate it, because I have to wait until I can borrow my roommate's Switch for it, which will take likely another week before I see him. I don't have a Switch to do it myself. Several people have asked for the Switch video, but it would be an incomplete tutorial without the calibration part, so I am more inclined to wait until I have everything ready. Though, if that seems trivial and doesn't need to be shown on camera, do you think I should wait or upload it as soon as I can without calibration process?
@@djBaro_official I think is better to wait until you can calibrate it, so in that way you can make your final conclusions and decide whether to recommend it or not
Really appreciate your work.Can you do pull and push the analog while pressing left trigger. Is the interference value large compared to what you said in the previous comment?
I read your comment a couple hours ago but forgot to reply. It is an interesting question and I will check this tomorrow and will come back to you. I will test it both on the website and in Rocket League with 0% deadzone. That's the only game I have where 0 means actually 0, most other games still have a deadzone with minimum deadzone.
Yep, only the last three digits change by around 0.00300 or 0.00400 when pressing the trigger. I will post a review on all of the controllers that I have TMR in soon when I have had more time to play with the Xbox and also the Switch Pro TMRs. I am aiming early or mid September as my university is also starting, so I'll have less time a day for gaming. In that review I will also mention the findings with the trigger magnet among other things I want to mention.
Yep. I just got the joysticks for Switch Pro delivered today. I will record a video on it tomorrow and edit it during the weekend, I'll send another comment to you with the link whenever it is published.
Unfortunately the TMR is not compatible with the Xbox One controllers. I am not too sure if there are hall effect joysticks available for those, maybe there is but you run into the same issue with calibration. I think the safest bet is buying new Alps potentiometers and replace them each time they break.
Omg i was waiting for this tutoril so longgg, i just bought aliexpress hall effect joystick 3€ each pair. I dont know if it gonna work. And the only gulikit sticks i found are around 18€ each pair in aliexpress i dont know if that one u bought... i cant find them😢
These were one of the test samples AKNES (reseller of Gulikit) handed out to testers, I didn't buy them. They needed feedback to check if there are issues with the joysticks before they would sell them, so I signed up for the testing. There were some issues, mainly with some of the thumb caps being crooked and Switch Pro controller TMR unable to be calibrated well. These have been fixed (although I think the old thumb caps are still sold unfortunately), I saw the ones on Ali Express too, but I ordered for Dualsense some more sticks on AKNES's Amazon. After some time of playing I also had issues with a mushy R3 button on the Dualsense. So far it is an isolated issue, as I'm the only tester who had it happen. From the 3 pairs extra from AKNES, 1 joystick had the same issue. They are investigating if more people get the issue. AKNES has good customer service and they sent me a new pair even though it was just 1 joystick that failed for me. You can also buy them from Ali Express, either from AKNES or other resellers. Gulikit sells it directly as well. You can easily see which seller is selling the joysticks on the product page. And have fun installing the hall effect joysticks!
I put a pair of those Hall effect (oranges) but now the left stick can't make all the way to the left and up side, how can I calibrate them? the Xbox app Don't work with those joysticks
you had any problems with the Microsoft calibration software? I've seen some reports that after installing an analogue hall effect and trying to calibrate it, the analogue stays with permanent drift. Hope the new TMR dont have same problem.
It is the Pro'sKit SS-331. I bought it for around 130 euro on Ali Express. For me it is most certainly worth the investment. I repair multiple controllers a week and most of it requires desoldering joysticks and/or potentiometers. If you don't solder that often, you could get away with using a manual solder pump with a replaceable tip.
I used the Xbox Accessories program, downloaded from the Microsoft store. You can also calibrate it on the Xbox console itself via the settings, it has the exact same overlay.
Xbox triggers have magnets in them, so it will affect the HE due to interference. With TMR, I am noticing it VERY little. I explained in another comment as well, it only changes by around 0.3%. Gulikit is also aware of this and they say you won't notice it in-game. I've played with the Xbox TMR for a bit now and I can validate that claim that there is no noticable influence by the 0.3% caused by the trigger.
The problem is more so that only the Series controllers are compatible with the calibration software. I don't have an elite core controller to validate it for you, however I can tell you that if it is not the same internally as a Series controller, it will not work. So clones and older gen Xbox controller will not work with TMR simply due to the lack of calibration possibilities.
I been waiting to see this for so long bro
I'm glad I finally have gotten around to doing it haha, hope you enjoyed it and can use it as a tutorial. I only applied for the Dualsense and Dualshock 4 testing first, which is why I hadn't been able to record this one immediately. After seeing comments that people wanted to see an Xbox video as well, I decided to go for it and bought an Xbox controller, as well as a Switch Pro controller. Coincidentally the Switch Pro TMR joysticks arrived half an hour ago so I will be recording it today or tomorrow too.
@@djBaro_official thanks bro
You're welcome
I just did the replacement and it has been a long time since I soldered. They work perfectly after calibration. I hope they last a long time.
Awesome. Have fun
king of installation tutorials! Keep it up!
I can only advise anyone who doesn’t own a professional desoldering gun against attempting this modification. I tried it myself and eventually managed, with considerable effort, to desolder the old joysticks. However, without a professional desoldering gun, it’s so difficult that I likely damaged a micro-component in the process, which unfortunately resulted in the right GuliKit joystick not working properly after installation. Unfortunately, it couldn’t be fixed even with the Xbox Accessories app.
It’s better to buy a third-party controller with integrated Hall-effect sticks » in the end, it saves both money and nerves.
I am considering doing a video where I show different ways to desolder the joysticks as people may not have the budget for an automatic solder sucker. It would be a long format video where I desolder one joystick using each method with minimal edits to show the ups and downs of each. I still need to buy some equipment for that as I do not own a hot air station and small manual pump, which are some of the methods that I want to show. I am curious though, is that something you would be interested in seeing?
I will do it on DualSense controllers though, as I have them laying around and need to repair regardless. They also still have the factory solder, which gives a better representation on the difficulty
This can easily be done with a cheap electric desoldering pump. But yes, attempting to desolder the lead-free solder with just a soldering iron and copper wick will lead to ripped/damaged PCB pads for the impatient or inexperienced.
Looks like works perfect, i was checking the orange hall effect stick and it needs to be calibrated manually
You should be able to use the software I use for the orange Ginful as well. Though only if it is an Xbox Series controller. Older generation controllers do not work in the app
In Game test footage pls. (Call of Duty, 0% deadzones, 13 - 13 sensitivity Linear Response testing the sensitivity of stick near neutral, Input latency, input consistency and smoothness) This would be a great help deciding whether or not to buy these.
I'm planning on publishing a more in depth review of these joysticks in September as I want more playtime with the Xbox controller first, and my recording set up is at my dorm room, where I will go to late August. This video and my two prior videos for Dualsense and Dualshock 4 are only meant to show how to install them. I have one more installation video for the Switch Pro coming up in a few days. In terms of the games I test them with, it will be games I already play now, e.g. I just finished a playthough of Horizon Forbidden West with the Dualsense, while I play Rocket League with the Dualshock 4, and occasionally with the Dualsense too. I don't play call of duty, so testing with that game would not be good for me as I'm generally not good in that game. Rocket League is a game that goes down to 0% deadzone too, so I am going to mainly use that as in game test footage, I already have a good testing methodology for that gameand found interesting results which I want to include in my review when I upload it.
I assume it's not that hard thing to do this, even if ur not a pro in soldering or?
If you have the right supplies to desolder a through-hole, it can be done. This can be just an iron and solder wick, a manual suction pump, electric pump, desoldering gun like I used or a heatgun. The first two are the cheaper options, which will be trickier but not impossible.
@@djBaro_official I have a friend with those tools, so it's doable, ty, nice video.
Thank you and good luck with the mod
Can you use the original thumb stick cover with these new tmr kits?
Im considering them but since ive got an all white controller off xbox design lab the black silver would look a bit off on my controller unfortunately.
Als is it possible to see a video of these installed on a first gen elite controller?
I don't think there is a calibration tool for first gen elite controller, correct me if I am wrong.
Without a way to calibrate them, it is not good to use. If there is a way to calibrate them, let me know how, then I can consider making a video about it.
And original thumbcaps do fit yea
I've been seeing a lot of people buying the 8bitdo Pro 2 controller and SN30. Can you make a tutorial replacing the joysticks to hall effect or TMR Ps4 sticks? That would really mean a lot!
On their Amazon product pages it mentions they already have hall effect joysticks in them. Were you not aware of that or did you mean to have a video regardless that there already is one in, just to show how to put a different pair of joysticks in?
@djBaro_official The 2021 version that was initially released does not have them. I am fully aware that they were just released and does have Hall Effect Sticks. That’s why I was simply asking for a vid lol
I understand it now, thanks! I will put it on my list of video ideas. I cannot promise yet whether it is possible to find replacement hall effects for those with the correct voltages.
My next repair video will likely be about many different ways to desolder joysticks, but I need to save up somewhat before I can purchase all the necessary tools. I hope that video will be a nice foundation for any future joystick replacement video I do, where people who want to know how to desolder joysticks, can see various methods in that video on how to do it with cheaper tools.
Then, in the future when I get my hands on one of the controllers you mentioned, I can do a teardown and research which joysticks can fit in there for others to replace. I do know how when or if that video will be uploaded however, e.g. if I cannot find suitable joysticks.
@@djBaro_official Thanks so much man!
Do you know if it is possible to install the Xbox one on the Razer Wolverine Ultimate and the Dualshock 4 on the Razer Raiju without having any problems?
Sorry I do not know, it depends on the voltage and circuitry of this potentiometer pins whether it is possible. You also need to have a way to calibrate them
And could you recommend a (un)soldering kit with all the essential tools at an affordable price please?
It depends what is your budget. My first and only soldering iron is the one in the video, the Atten AT-989, around 50 euro. The soldering tips I bought in a pack of all types of tips from Ali Express for few euro which I use on that iron, they were pre-tinned and work great, so far only needed two types of tips only, the rest are unused. The chisel tip is the one I use the most, truly great for the joysticks, but not with small SMD type of soldering, which I don't do. And with that, basically any other tool I have I also got from Ali Express. There are several ways to desolder through hole components, I used to have a very cheap manual desoldering pump (those blue silver ones), avoid those no matter what. They are a pain to work with. Invest in a better desoldering pump with a replaceable tip like this one: amzn.eu/d/5DjKUe2 I don't own this one, but it is one of the better desoldering pumps so you know how they look like. The desoldering vacuum gun I have is the Pro'sKit SS-31H and I buy aquarium cotton filters to cut them to size which is cheaper than buying the original filters. the Pro'skit is significantly more expensive at around 130 euro on Ali Express, but for the number of times I need it, for me it was worth it. If you don't use something like this often, I would recommend a manual desolder pump that looks like the one I linked, with replaceable tips, maybe one on Ali Express that is cheaper.
For Solder tin, it is easier if it has a rosin core. The thinner the wire, the more precise you can be with the amount of solder you use, good for SMD work, but still works fine with throughhole where you need more solder relatively speaking. I use a 60/40 mix solder tin, which was around 10 euro and in almost two years of using it, I still haven't run out. It isn't the best but I can do anything I want with it, so I think it is something you don't have to spend a lot in if you are trying to spend little money. Even if there is rosin in the wire, you will need some flux. Any flux is better than no flux, so if you are on a tight budget, there are plenty ones on Ali Express that are performing good enough, but not the best. Most of the ones on that website are clones either way.
If you don't want to go for a pump, you can also go for solder wick, it can be more difficult to work with but people have done it and it is fairly cheap. Also make sure here you buy one which contains flux within the wick.
Heatgun is also an option but I do not own one and don't know a lot about it so I can't recommend one easily. One I have in my wishlist which I know from another technician works great, is the Atten ST-862D, not cheap, which is why I don't own it lol. Though I am just listing out some possibilities in each price range, I hope you can find something that suits you.
Thanks, I just got these in the mail today and Xbox Kontrolfreeks fit perfectly
Awesome glad to know. Have fun
Is there a direct link on where to purchase these? I looked on their website and saw no purchase options for these anywhere.
You can purchase them on Amazon from seller AKNES.
Or on Ali Express from Gulikit directly or AKNES too. There are other sellers, I don't know which of them are official resellers of Gulikit. AKNES is.
@@djBaro_official I checked Amazon already and it said “Currently Unavailable”. Do you have the links for them?
Gulikit store: a.aliexpress.com/_EvuKSPX
Aknes store:
- Ali Express: a.aliexpress.com/_EzCAI53
- Amazon (US): www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8VDZBPF?th=1&psc=1 unfortunately like you say the Xbox is now unavailable. So I hope the other links do help you.
I see a lot of other TH-camrs mention this when sending links for products that they are not sponsored for, idk if that is mandatory to say. But for transparency, I don't get paid for sharing the links
Just did my replacement and the left stick is stuck only going all the way to the right and only detecting up and down movement. Do you think it's a joystick issue?
It may be a cold solder joint. Try to reflow the solder joints of the sensor on the x axis. If that does not work, you can send me a photo so I can check whether something is wrong with the motherboard. My discord is djBaro
Is left trigger effect left analog when pressed full? Both are magnetic?
Very slighty, it may not be noticable in game. Axis 1 is the only one that is affected and moves from 0.00310 to -0.00053. So around 0.3% difference in vertical movement when pressing in the trigger
@@djBaro_official It will not effect I think. Maybe cover aliminium with a dielectric tape cover potentiometer will help less effect.
I've been playing with it for a bit and I don't notice anything weird luckily
I did two controller & got a very strange occurence on the rigth stick.
I do the calibration & everything works fine, no strange issue.
Then if I move the stick long enough, the calibration start to get out of range.
If I reboot the controller : calibration is fine again.
Anyone else have seen that ?
I have not seen that before.
But I have heard others say that had to recalibrate their Xbox several times for it to finally work well
Are you going to upload a Switch pro controller installation too. Got 2 that need replacement.
th-cam.com/video/p9Qv_DgvPtc/w-d-xo.html I uploaded the Switch Pro tutorial!
I wish I could install it on an Xbox One Controller.
I mean for the calibration stuff.
Yeah... That sucks. Almost makes me wonder if the reason Microsoft didn't make calibration possible on Xbox One controller simply because they didn't want to, rather than not being possible
Did you already tried the ones made for the Switch Pro controller? Can you make an installation guide please?
Editing the video as I speak! It took me a bit longer to get started because I got sick, thank you for the patience!
I have a choice in front of me which I could your opinion on. I can upload the installation part of the video tomorrow when it is edited, but without showing how to calibrate it, because I have to wait until I can borrow my roommate's Switch for it, which will take likely another week before I see him. I don't have a Switch to do it myself.
Several people have asked for the Switch video, but it would be an incomplete tutorial without the calibration part, so I am more inclined to wait until I have everything ready. Though, if that seems trivial and doesn't need to be shown on camera, do you think I should wait or upload it as soon as I can without calibration process?
@@djBaro_official I think is better to wait until you can calibrate it, so in that way you can make your final conclusions and decide whether to recommend it or not
Understood, thank you for the feedback! The video will be uploaded whenever I have the calibration recorded too.
th-cam.com/video/p9Qv_DgvPtc/w-d-xo.html Here is the Switch Pro tutorial!
Really appreciate your work.Can you do pull and push the analog while pressing left trigger. Is the interference value large compared to what you said in the previous comment?
I read your comment a couple hours ago but forgot to reply. It is an interesting question and I will check this tomorrow and will come back to you. I will test it both on the website and in Rocket League with 0% deadzone. That's the only game I have where 0 means actually 0, most other games still have a deadzone with minimum deadzone.
It is about the same. I get around 0.3% or 0.4% difference when having moved the joystick up and down and pressing the trigger. It isn't noticeable.
@djBaro_official in website gamepad tester,still 0.00×××× right?
@@djBaro_official on gamepad tester website,the value still 0.00XXX right when you do the test?
Yep, only the last three digits change by around 0.00300 or 0.00400 when pressing the trigger. I will post a review on all of the controllers that I have TMR in soon when I have had more time to play with the Xbox and also the Switch Pro TMRs. I am aiming early or mid September as my university is also starting, so I'll have less time a day for gaming. In that review I will also mention the findings with the trigger magnet among other things I want to mention.
You can make a video but with the Nintendo Switch Pro Controller?
Yep. I just got the joysticks for Switch Pro delivered today. I will record a video on it tomorrow and edit it during the weekend, I'll send another comment to you with the link whenever it is published.
I just made it! th-cam.com/video/p9Qv_DgvPtc/w-d-xo.html
Bro, is there a way to replace Xbox One joysticks and have a good performance?
(Since the Xbox App is not compatible with those controlllers).
Unfortunately the TMR is not compatible with the Xbox One controllers.
I am not too sure if there are hall effect joysticks available for those, maybe there is but you run into the same issue with calibration. I think the safest bet is buying new Alps potentiometers and replace them each time they break.
Omg i was waiting for this tutoril so longgg, i just bought aliexpress hall effect joystick 3€ each pair. I dont know if it gonna work. And the only gulikit sticks i found are around 18€ each pair in aliexpress i dont know if that one u bought... i cant find them😢
These were one of the test samples AKNES (reseller of Gulikit) handed out to testers, I didn't buy them. They needed feedback to check if there are issues with the joysticks before they would sell them, so I signed up for the testing. There were some issues, mainly with some of the thumb caps being crooked and Switch Pro controller TMR unable to be calibrated well. These have been fixed (although I think the old thumb caps are still sold unfortunately), I saw the ones on Ali Express too, but I ordered for Dualsense some more sticks on AKNES's Amazon.
After some time of playing I also had issues with a mushy R3 button on the Dualsense. So far it is an isolated issue, as I'm the only tester who had it happen. From the 3 pairs extra from AKNES, 1 joystick had the same issue. They are investigating if more people get the issue. AKNES has good customer service and they sent me a new pair even though it was just 1 joystick that failed for me.
You can also buy them from Ali Express, either from AKNES or other resellers. Gulikit sells it directly as well. You can easily see which seller is selling the joysticks on the product page. And have fun installing the hall effect joysticks!
I put a pair of those Hall effect (oranges) but now the left stick can't make all the way to the left and up side, how can I calibrate them? the Xbox app Don't work with those joysticks
It's possible some calibration boards could help you
On Ali Express. I believe it is called something like Juhn Zeng
you had any problems with the Microsoft calibration software? I've seen some reports that after installing an analogue hall effect and trying to calibrate it, the analogue stays with permanent drift. Hope the new TMR dont have same problem.
I did not have any issues with it, as seen at the end of the video where i calibrate them.
Hi what desolder gun do u use and is it worth the investment because they aren’t cheap n ppl complain about them in amazon comments
It is the Pro'sKit SS-331. I bought it for around 130 euro on Ali Express.
For me it is most certainly worth the investment. I repair multiple controllers a week and most of it requires desoldering joysticks and/or potentiometers.
If you don't solder that often, you could get away with using a manual solder pump with a replaceable tip.
Please help me. What program do you use to calibrate?
I used the Xbox Accessories program, downloaded from the Microsoft store. You can also calibrate it on the Xbox console itself via the settings, it has the exact same overlay.
I put halleffect on Xbox SX controler, now it pulls up every time I press LT. How to fix that? This new Gulikit TMR will fix that?
Xbox triggers have magnets in them, so it will affect the HE due to interference.
With TMR, I am noticing it VERY little. I explained in another comment as well, it only changes by around 0.3%. Gulikit is also aware of this and they say you won't notice it in-game. I've played with the Xbox TMR for a bit now and I can validate that claim that there is no noticable influence by the 0.3% caused by the trigger.
Hi do Xbox kontrolfreeks fit on those analogs like normal?
I'm not 100% sure as I don't have kontrolfreeks to try it, but the size is fairly the same so I think it would fit
Thanks, I just got these in the mail today and Xbox Kontrolfreeks fit perfectly
Ah just saw your other comment too. Haha. Have fun with the sticks!
Would this also work on a elite core controller?
The problem is more so that only the Series controllers are compatible with the calibration software. I don't have an elite core controller to validate it for you, however I can tell you that if it is not the same internally as a Series controller, it will not work. So clones and older gen Xbox controller will not work with TMR simply due to the lack of calibration possibilities.