The BEST Way to Paint and Seal MDF Edges - Video #3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- I recently posted a video showing you how to get a really smooth finish on your MDF edges - using wood filler.
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The problem is that this is quite a long-winded job, and as one of my viewers recently voiced in a comment below the video, "imagine doing all this work to 5 closets each 6-8 doors which are 8ft high and 2ft wide. This is just crazy amount of work. There has to be a better way!"
This got me thinking. There are so many opinions on the internet on how best to paint MDF edges, but none of them are backed up with objective demonstration, and so I thought, wouldn't it be good if I prepared some MDF edges with all the possible options, so that I CAN DECIDE WHICH ONE IS BEST.
So this is exactly what I've done in this video. I've prepared a mock up with 5 edges, prepared as follows:
oil based undercoat and top coat
water based undercoat and top coat
slightly watered down PVA bond, with a water based undercoat and top coat
wood filler, followed by water based undercoat and top coat
MDF edging tape followed by water based undercoat and top coat
MY CONCLUSIONS
The best solution is the MDF edging tape - which produces a really smooth finish, closely followed by the wood filler.
But both of these involve quite a lot of hassle.
What was really interesting was that the oil based solution didn't produce a noticeably better finish than the water based wood primer undercoat and top coat, and the PVA primer didn't make any noticeable difference when compared with the edges that had just been primed and top coated.
So in summary, if you're a professional woodworker and want a truly professional, smooth finish, then filling or treating the edges with edging tape is the way to go.
But for all the rest of us, you get a perfectly acceptable finish by simply treating the edges with a wood primer undercoat, followed by a top coat - like I did here! goo.gl/7ohVg2
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Links dont work for me
i know it's an old video, but just for the people who see this now and who are wondering, i dont know is Albastien goes for every country, but i got a wood filler of Albastine which not only makes the mdf edges smooth as glass, you can also paint it after 15-30 minutes, only downside it that if u arent skilled using it, it can take an hour to seal the edges of a small project. but it really is worth it!
Here in El Salvador I learned from the local woodworkers the use of sealer with industrial talc to treat edges of MDF. It creates a super smooth finish.
Same thing is used here in Jordan, I'm keep getting this advice from everyone one around me, but I keep using the method I'm used for which is applying NC wood filler after NC primer then sand it then applying final finish... I think I will try the NC clear coat sealer next time!
Thank you sir for taking the time demonstrate the different methods. Much appreciated
Great Video Charlie. I've been using glue size for years on miles of mdf edges for trims. 50/50 mix white glue and water. Apply to sanded edge, let dry and then sand out with 220. It comes up like glass and gives you a super smooth finish. I use zinsser bin or more recently zinsser cover stain oil based that dries in 1 hr. Benjamin moore advance with a painting pad for finish coats. Basically a
factory finish in no time.
I got a few unused tite bond wood glue bottles laying around would that seal MDF? im not looking for a perfect finish just something that will last.
going to give this ago always do wood filler methord but its time consumming
for anyone interested, the way i've dealt w/ MDF edges in the past was to substitute drywall mud instead of a wood filler. i prefer drywall mud because it's easier to apply and sand and the finish is really smooth.
which one do you use?
Great video. Really like your approach to issues. Based on your evidence I took the sanding/water-based primer/light sanding/water-based finish route on an MDF project this week and I am very pleased with the results. So thank you. I am now studying your videos on plasterboard fixings and anticipate asking you a question on that scary subject!
As a painter & decorator since leaving school 1978 , i started using acrylic primer/undercoat ,long ago 30+ years . I agree with your conclusion prime with acrylic sand ,2nd coat acrylic , then finish . This is by far the quickest and easiest with good results , simple as . Thanks for the video .
Thanks for the comment, Rob. It's always great to hear from a pro painter on these matters!
@@CharlieDIYte : Thanks for taking the time to reply , i'm sure you are very busy , i just came across your video , then had a look at some more , i see you now favor methylated spirit paint , i used this for a few years before i switched to acrylic , it is indeed fast dry this is a big plus , but i had a hard time sourcing it way back in the 80s so i gave up , i'll maybe give it another go . Tks again tu & sub
You have a fascinating channel here - thank you. Just one point you might like to hear; when my wife and I were a lot younger we used to do quite a bit of DIY with faced board and edging strip, which was easier to get hold of then and much cheaper. We found that a layer of clean brown paper between the edging and the electric iron kept the iron cleaner and made a better job all round. Then you could take a wooden block and really polish the join without risking any transfer of unwanted material such as paint.
Thanks for an interesting video. After many years of DIY, I have found it best to use oil paint on any mdf edges that are likely to come into contact with water on occasion (eg kitchen cabinet or bathroom vanity bases).
I get 100% perfect MDF edges using only paint. As a test I glued 3 layers of 18mm together. When painted you couldn't tell which edge was the endgrain and which wasn't.
First I prime with a shellac based primer. I use Zinnser BIN. It dries incredibly quickly - touch dry on MDF in about 2 - 5 minutes. Its expensive but a little goes a long way. Leave to dry, and give it a light sand. Then for edges I do a second coat of primer, and then again sand. Then two top coats of water based satin paint, and every edge surface is as silky and smooth as the faces.
Yes, the primer is expensive. And yes, that's 4 coats instead of 3. But the conclusion in the video is if you want super smooth edges, the best they can be, you need to go to the effort of applying and trimming edging tape or applying two part filler and sanding it on every edge. This method is better than either of those and every bit as perfect in its result.
Spot on 👍
MDF has edge grain on all 4 edges so I am not sure what you mean?
This was great! Just about to embark on a small mdf project! Thank you so much for all your efforts.
senseislayer You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
You should be on TV fella.Great presentation, and succinct.Keep it up.
Thanks John, I really appreciate that! 👍
I have a large diy project and your videos have helped me to make up my mind to the best approach. Many thanks
Rogers Digital World You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment - it means a lot!
50/50 wood glue/water works great. I applied 1 coat followed by light sanding. I sprayed with a can of spray paint and got a perfectly smooth finish.
Thanks for the effort to help duffers like me! This will help me to be comfortable using the water based for my needs!
Dave McCracken You're welcome Dave. Thanks for the comment!
Used the iron on edging tape, well worth the effort. I have used this method in the past with mixed results but this time followed your advice and sanded down to the edge with excellent results. Thanks for the tip. Not on this video but also used the lost tite screw you recommend, another fantastic product. Your tips are saving me hours of experimentation.
Cheers James - really appreciate the feedback. I agree - the iron on tape is by far the best finish!
Great video Charlie, thank you. I usually use a water based primer and a top coat/s when I work with mdf. It saves me time and produces a very good finish. I have used special mdf primers too which are expensive and do not really give results that are that outstanding to warrant use over a normal wood primer.
Excellent scientific approach. I really like your demonstration --- so much better than unsubstantiated claims. Thank-you for making the world a better place!
Thanks Chris - I really appreciate that!
I had an epiphany last night after I watched this video. It was about 4am and I woke with the thought what if I combine some of the best tips and make a primer that does all of the above.
I mixed Fine Surface polyfilla (Fine Plaster powder) with MDF Primer, and a little water to mix to a creamy consistency. Not sure of the quantities but about 20% filler with 80% paint.
I brushed this on to the edge of the board and left for a couple of hours. After sanding with 240 grit paper the end result was glass smooth. Similar to the finish with the wood filler.
Give it a try you won't be disapointed
That is really interesting Geoff - the image of you doing that reminds me of Roald Dahl's George's Marvellous Medicine! I can't think of any downsides to this except perhaps the durability of it (will it be a bit brittle - probably not?) / it's adhesion to the mdf, although I guess the adhesion is no worse than any of the other options - because you've got the primer in the mix to help it sink in. I might give this a go. I'm also wondering about the Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 which a lot of people seem to use to seal mdf (though I suspect this isn't massively different to any other primer, when combined with the right top coat) - I feel another video coming on!
Massive thanks for the comment and great work!!
@@CharlieDIYte I'm completely in love with Zinsser, I use 123 as an undercoat mainly because of how easy it is to go on, the range of substrates it will adhere too, many without sanding and how super quick it dries for next coat. Perfect when dealing with changeable British weather if working outside on bigger pieces.
Since 123 they've also released Zinsser Allcoat, a self priming gloss paint for interior and exterior use. One product that does everything. I used it to do every wooden window (outer) on my house, some 2 coats but most 3 due to poor condition of original woodwork needing striping and filling in many places. Again goes on amazingly well and dries so quickly. It's been 6 months and still looking good and standing up nicely to all the oak trees doing their best to stain my windows!
Thank you for sharing this. It was just what I was looking for to help me determine which way to go with sealing my MDF shelf. I like that you categorized options in accordance with how professional a job the person is after. Now I'm off to find some MDF tape!
Very good video - just what I was looking for thank you!
This is great. Lots of fear out there about water based anything and MDF. Nice to see that water based primer isn't a big deal, even on the edges. I've used oils, varnishes, and marine coatings but brand new to water based painting. I'm loving it so far, especially the cleanup. Heading out to acrylic-prime some MDF now!
Shellac sanding sealer, two coats. Sand to 220 grit. Paint.
You should try a white-tinted shellac primer. Zinsser BIN comes to mind. You can do multiple coats knocking down nibs between incredibly quickly because it is alcohol carried and therefore dries amazingly fast. You therefore get a great edge seal, a good amount of build, and ability to smooth it multiple times. Works incredibly well and is my preferred choice. If you do go a filler route, something that works even better than wood filler is Bondo glazing putty. It goes on faster & easier, dries much faster, and is easier to knock down. You get a perfect edge. But it's a lot more fussy than just sealing with shellac-based primer.
Trimming the edges of iron-on edge finishers is easily done with the back side of a chisel, use the 90° metal edge at a 45° angle on the edges and press/push the edges off. No razors involved and a lot faster. 5 seconds a running meter. Bad edge finish needs a few seconds of sanding, but if you use a high quality product, you don't even need sanding.
Yep good point!
Great video, clearly spoken, wonderful comparisons. Much appreciated.
thanks charlie great video, up north here in the auto body industry what you refer to as modelling we call orange peel. modelling was when metallic paint was sprayed on to wet then the metals in the paint would pool together causing darker colors in the paint. i have always wanted to use mdf but turned away from mdf because of the edge factor but you have changed my mind, thanks making two princess bed head boards know for my grand daughters.
I use about a 50/50 mix of wood glue and water. First coat raises 'grain' and seals for second coat. Quick knock down sand after 1st coat dries. Apply second coat, sand smooth . ..so easy to sand. Finishes smooth as you could ever want!
Cheers for that. I'll give that a try next time!
Wood Glue is PVA, So same thing...just maybe a bit cheaper..:) "Gorilla Wood Glue, a PVA glue, offers the benefits of an easy-to-use water based adhesive. "
iamthewelcher - that's what I was about to say lol. Dries super fast and everything is usually right there on the bench. I work in a super high end NYC custom woodworking shop and that's how we do most of the MDF edges :)
I love mdf!
is the glue you use Titebond 2?
Yep best results and makes for a super hard durable edge, too. And it makes sense if you think about it- MDF it´s just dust bonded with Glue, so you´re not adding a third Component. I prefer waterproof glue for that, so whatever happens, you´re super safe. And since you are not depending on the adhesive properties of the glue but want to use it as a mere primer, you can easily mix it 40/60 glue and water so it penetrates easier.
Good video. When trimming edging on furniture boards, I use a really sharp chisel - easier to control than a knife blade, and avoid cutting yourself. I would probably do the same with the mdf tape when I give it a go!
Thanks Brian. I agree that's a better option, and of course there are edge banding trimmers that make the job even easier 👍
PVA all day for me, 2-3 coats with a 400-600 sand in between coats gets a gloss finish everytime and 10L PVA is £6
Thanks for the video. I would worry about the edge tape pealing over time. I think the wood filler is a winner
I watched because I am building Speaker Cabinets with MDF and will paint the Face/Front of the Cabinet with Spray Paint in a Can. The edges of this piece will have a chamfer which will expose even more of the side edging. One type I was hoping you might have covered was a Polyurethane Wood Sealer. Thanks for your video.
Sanding is key as I explained here th-cam.com/video/763yQg0Euwc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, Charlie for an interesting video. Another important consideration is durability. MDF needs protection; especially, in areas where the edge will encounter impact with objects such as dishes, canned goods, people, etc. Over time the edges will show little bits being chipped off. The iron-on edging gets my vote. It provides both a smooth surface and an added layer of protection.
Thanks Kam. I think on balance you're probably right, and it provides by far the best finish.
Great video. Thank you for this. I like the tape but since I usually put a roundover on stuff it might be problematic. I think I’ll try the wood filler next.
I prime all MDF with a pigmented shellac, I like BIN. It offers the most protection from moisture intrusion and the formation of 'blisters' and fat edges over the years. I struggled for years with latex and oil primers and still having some stuff expand due to moisture intrusion. BIN fixed that for me. I'll be doing it tomorrow. For cut material, I BIN the cuts, sand, and repeat. One coat over everything and it's ready for finishing. That's all it takes for me.
I agree. BIN for all priming for me these days. Sands beautifully too. th-cam.com/video/763yQg0Euwc/w-d-xo.html
very helpful video, i'm very new to diy woodwork and want to try my hand with mdf so this has put all my concerns to bed about how best to seal the mdf...thanks
A really nice way to do mdf edges is buy a roll of iron on veneer edge tape with a more closed
grain like maple or cherry, iron on sand the edge seal and paint. The glue on the back of the tape acts like a sealer so you don't need as much spray sealer. It will look beautiful.
Not everyone would have one but the blade out of a block plane works very well for trimming edge banding.
Thanks Noah. Good tip 👍
I really enjoy your videos. You save people HOURS and money. Your interaction with views is also incredible. Good karma my friend
Cheers Jeff. Really appreciate that mate! Sometimes wonder why I'm doing it but you guys keep me going with comments like that and who knows, one day I may even be able to do it full time. 🤔
Great video. That is the right way to compare things. Quick question: If all you are concerned about is preservation and surface protection (eg workshop boxes etc) what is the easiest way. Not concerned about quality of finish.
For that I'd go oil based every time. You can also apply a protective top coat - check out Tikkurilla Kiva 10 or Blockade Rock Top 👍
@@CharlieDIYte What oil based ones would you use?
I've been using plaster of Paris for sealing and smoothing the edges. Have tried all your tests except for the "oiled based" and have found plaster to be the smoothest, and most durable.
That is really a good and easy way to do it, and you already have a whitish work surface. How thick do you make the mixture if I may ask? And drying time before sanding?
I’m currently doing a small project in MDF that has some edges slightly rounded. Applying wood filler to those would be much harder than a flat surface and applying the iron on edging would be out of the question. I’d have applied at least two coats of water based stain sealing primer to the edges sanding between coats.
Thanks for this video! I'm doing a weekend DIY type of project (arcade cabinet repair) and used some MDF in parts and was looking at all the ways to seal it up for personal use. This guide gave me JUST what I needed, thanks so much!
anew32 You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment - I really appreciate it!
For mdf patches showing through a top surface, I seal with cyanoacrylate. Water based paints will keep swelling the exposed fibres and they need to be fixed before continuing with smoothing and painting
I found the best way to seal edge of MDF was to polish it with very fine wet and dry or sandpaper if you can get say 2000 grit or thereabouts, used a lot in the motor painting industry. It will take a bit of elbow grease if you do not have a disc sander. The polishing actually seals the fibres so when painted it does not require any more sanding, primer strait to top coat. We found this out when producing hundreds of MDF disks, spinning them on the end of a motor and polishing the edges until they shined, then they were sealed, saved a lot of time and paint on the finish product. I hope this helps.
Shellac is the way forward. I used to use a couple of the methods above but shellac sanding sealer then paint is 100% the way to go in my opinion.
Agreed. It's the only primer I buy now.
Can the spray work
I learned a trick, use a sanding sealer. like the kind you find at the box stores or a good one like a vinyl sealer. then lightly sand. It give a great bond for primer, and a smooth base to start with.
Thanks Jeff. Good info 👍
@@CharlieDIYte great vid btw. I like how you tried several different ways, showed them and showed the results!
Great video, nicely set up and demonstrated. Thanks.
+Ryan Cooper Thanks Ryan - much appreciated!
Prime, sand, paint. Perfect.
The thing with this is that you actually want to fur up the edges with the primer, it’s the sanding prep of the primer that determines your finish, your issue is not preparing the edges prior to priming, sand MDF edges to 320g before priming, 600g post priming. If you want a professional finish add a sealer coat before priming. I also would not use a roller to apply the edge paint
An interesting result, I think I will go with the water based pain, as you said it is much easier to clean the brushes after
Great video. you can get a single or double sided trimmer for around a tenner for trimming the edging tape but I don't have one, I've found putting the board flat hanging off the edge of your table or bench and using 25mm or bigger chisel works the best. Thanks for the mention, I like when you tubers actually say where they got their info from. keep up the good videos.
TheJunkyardgenius Thanks for the comment. Yes I can see a chisel would do a much cleaner job! Out of interest have you ever had a problem with the edging tape peeling off? This would seem to be the only potential flaw with what is otherwise a great product. Thanks again for the tip!
I haven't no, like all iron on tapes, if the iron wasn't hot enough, left on long enough to melt the glue or pressed on properly it would not bond correctly but I personally have never had any issue with it. I just wish I had found this stuff sooner. Most things I make use mdf because of the great paint finish you get on it and I think back to the time wasted sanding, filling or painting and sanding again on hundreds of flat panel kitchen cabinet doors for people over the years. This edging and buying a small electric paint sprayer changed my life and made things so much better and quicker.
Thank you very much for the very good video. As for the tape you can buy it in appropriate size-no need to trim it, actually there are machines who attach it for you....
Charlie. You have done an AMAZING job. thank you very much. I would either use PVA or wood filler or oil-based primer.. because my concern is not only a nice smooth finish, but also sealing the MDF from water damage.. and of course, this means putting on a coat of polyurethane sealer. thank you for helping me see the difference and doing all of this work for me. Cheers!
+Malgozata You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to add your thoughts on how it should be done, and for the great feedback - you guys are what makes it all worth while!
G
Great demonstrational video. I'm making ply carcasses for a caravan kitchen so I'm thinking of going for the wood filler to treat the exposed edges of the ply
I work at a Furniture Factory we make high-end office furniture and we use pre glued edgebanding like you had and we can do not use a razor blade to cut the ends off or to flush it up to the piece I have a technique which makes it easier and nicer.. and this is .. use that same piece of wood u used to push down the pieces of what you call MDF tape and tap on the edges at a 45-degree angle and it will break the extra paper tape or banding off of the piece versus cutting it will make the paper or banding come out way cleaner on the sides
That's a nice technique that I hadn't thought of. Thanks for sharing 👊
Good tips I have always just flooded with water based and sanded and repeat until smooth. I always spray. I will try some of these
Drizy Bigsix i am iron bored man lol.duane Thanks. Let me know how you get on!
i have been a joiner for years and have always used a wood glue mix with water but you need to sand after first coat and give a second coat and sand again then prime and you will get a glass like finish
We polished the edges of MDF with verry fine wet and dry, about 2000 grit, when the edge is polished the paint does not soak in, if you have discs spin them on a mandrel, if you have square edge then you can use bobbin slander or disc sander.
Outstanding video. Great instruction. Precisely what I need to know! Thank you!
Thanks George - really appreciate that, and thanks for taking the time to let me know!!
I've using Zinsser Gardz for years to seal mdf end grain. The paint flows nicely on top of it and it makes the end grain solid.
Hi, doesn't the zinser product have to be used in one go once the tin has been opened? i know you do with certain other zinser products.
first i use 150 and next 220 disc sanding, and at the end i use 320 by hand till i get a smoth surface almos finished. After that i paint with polyurethane primer filling well , after dry completely i give a second coat of primer.(paint in wet). 320 sanding after dry and thats all. i use this method long time and the result is good, so good as a normal MDF surface after finishing.
Wow - time consuming but an awesome finish, no doubt!
My 2p worth. Use a pre cat high build primer. Solvent based if you want quick dry. Morrells do one called MDF sealer. Dries super quick. Cons, strong smell vapour.
I've been using automotive body filler (Bondo) no-fibre for years. I also have access to high build primer then sand it, and spray top coats.
For finishing glued on edge use a laminate edge trimmer. Cuts both sides simultaneously.
Thanks Stan. Great tip!
Stabilizing solution works great for me
Great video, the way I cut my edgebanding is flip board over , edge band down , glue up, run a sharp razor knife along edge and walla! Perfect edge
"Voila" - it's french. google "walla" it doesn't mean what you think it does.
Shellac also works very well, Undercoat is a mix of oil and spirit which is why it dries so much faster than gloss, two undercoats and some 240 grit between coats will also give you a very nice flat finish, because the oil in the paint will set harder and allow for better sanding.even adding some spirit to the first coat so it absorbs into the end grain which will stop the coats separating.
I used Carver Urania alchool base varnish and does a really good job. The advantage is that its catylised , so it dries in about 30 min.
great video, an edge band trimmer would help applying the edge band but it sucks too
Yes I've heard a few people suggesting that 👍
Here in Uganda, East Africa we usually Sand and apply sanding sealer and fine sand before give the mdf edge a final paint. I guess from am going to try and take your approach. Thanks you.
Very useful info. THANKS!
Titebond glue is the best I have found. Cheap, washes out with water, sands well, paints well any paint sticks to it, waterproof when dry, non toxic and it penetrates the surfaces when sanded, penetrates the edges up to 2-3mm. PVA does not work anywhere near as well as Titebond.
Thanks for that Michael. Nice tip 👌🏻
Nice video. There is a banding trimmer like a Plane but a "V" that works very well. Fastest way that doesn't require more work is to you a trim router. You can use a flush or bevel bit.
Do any of these tecniques waterproof the edges? I'm thinking of making MDF or plywood cupboard doors that need replacing under the sink.
I use 2 coats of 50 50 white glue and water then hit it with 400 grit. Sometimes there's dimples in the top coat, but works pretty well with minimal work. Also we use a spray gun to apply finish/paint.
5:06 There are relatively cheap razor tools that do a really tidy job vs. freehanding it. If you're stuck without one, scoring from the underside does a straighter line. But if you are doing more than a couple of shelves, buy the tool. Edging tape is more for paint free work where the planks are laminated with the same fake wood grain and colour that matches the tape and the tape is used to cover any exposed edges.
Another wet option is watered down wood glue, but it dries pretty hard and tougher to sand (but inexpensive!).
Thanks for sharing 👌
I use to put i coat of white or patent knotting or wood hardener ,works wonders
sometimes use sanding sealer ,
They also have MDF trimmers. They cut both sides at the same time. I have used a utility knife with some practice as well.
All this is great if you are only doing MDF edging ( for eg: a door ) When there is a need to butt the mdf edge to the face ( like a corner ) and needs to be painted, then a lot of these examples will not work. The idea is to get the edge to have the same surface texture as the face, so when you paint, one cannot tell there is an edge. The edge needs to be filled/sealed before priming and painting. Using an oil based putty will do the trick, light sand and repeat if necessary and to be level with the face side. Oil base primer, light sand and repeat then oil based paint. Does a great job if you want that look. Sorry I know this post is 5 yrs old, have only just noticed it Lol!
Thanks Alain. Very useful. Also sanding is key as discussed here th-cam.com/video/763yQg0Euwc/w-d-xo.html
I use spackle or drywall mud. Almost any kind works so use whatever is available and cost effective. You can use spackle, lightweight spackle, premixed drywall mud or dry mix drywall mud. Mix it with just enough water to make it brush-able, brush on a thick coat let it dry then sand and prime. Most other fillers don't have enough solids content to fill the cut grain of MDF.
I don't see it in the comments, but another product to try is ROMAN RX-35 PRO-999. It's a drywall/wall paper repair solution. I think it's some kind of glue mixture. I highly recommend giving this a shot as an alternative to my favourite all purpose primer: Zinnser BIN!
How this product came up for me: I was at a paint store yesterday explaining my issue with MDF not getting a nice smooth finish, it feels gritty/sandy. The young person at the counter said I should try this ROMAN product. They gave me a sample and I tested it out yesterday with great success on some custom routed baseboard.
Basically I made the router cuts, applied this product, sanded lightly (w/ 220 Grit), applied a coat of primer (not Zinnser), and finished with a coat of paint. So basically I sealed/sanded/primed. It is nice and smooth. So far I'm very happy with the product's ability to seal the MDF - it goes on like milk and dries to a tacky clear coat finish. Obviously the sanding made the biggest difference. I also used a paint that's intended for trims/cabinets/furniture - in my opinion it's awesome. Check out Benjamin Moore's ADVANCE line.
Ultimately, I'm going to at the very least include sealing and sanding in any type of MDF painting application.
I find it much easier to trim edge banding by holding a block of wood firmly on the tape surface and trimming from behind with an Olfa knife. Nice clean edge and it doesn’t cut into the wood.
Missed a trick there Charlie... PVA mixed with cheap White emulsion and rolled on. 2 birds, one stone. Loving your work by the way.
Interesting! Thanks for that. I'll give it a try sometime 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte Obviously it has to be Matt emulsion
This may sound strange, but spackle with a small amount of pva added works on edges wonderfully. It does need to be sanded a little more thoroughly, though.
Try polyurethane sanding sealer. It dries fast and is thin to apply. That works great for edge treatment on MDF.
Very useful video - thank you Charlie
Paul O You're very welcome Paul, thanks for the comment!
Two words for attaching and trimming door and cabinet edging. Fastcap.com. They have not only a great material for edges and screw holes, but also have the best tools for smoothing any air pockets from under your edging while it dries and they also have a couple of specific tools for trimming the ends smoothly and also the edges. The way you’re doing it here is a bit old fashioned even enough it works ok. Check out fastcaps product line for laminate installation
Woody Scarboro Cheers Woody. I'll take a look.
I prefer a thin layer of silicone caulking. It fills the cracks well and prevents moisture
Which edge protects against edge swelling in moist environments the best? This is a real problem in Humid areas with untreated spaces
For trimming the edging tape buy your self an old blade from a planer machine (the ones you had to sharpen). Run it down the MDf nice and flat. Perfect trim.
i think the fastcap trimming kit and maybe white mdf edging will serve best.
Thank you for the video.
+Mohammed Ali Yes, definitely gives you the best finish!
One method you haven't mentioned, which in my opinion beats them all is sanding using a small palm sander. Start with 120 grit the go to 180 and 320 as a minimum, you can go further and it will improve the edge even more. After doing this what material you use will hold up.
@@nathanielnats4373 All lot is down to the quality of the MDF the denser the core the less sanding needed, if the MDF is really poor quality it will have a soft very open texture in which case no amount of sanding will help,( go straight to filling with 2 part filler). Generally speaking, use 120 grit to remove any saw marks, then sand with 180 until you see the edge start to “polish” or “look tighter” same will happen again with each finer grit. Rule of thumb the more sanding you do the less coats needed.
this is a brilliant idea. Thank you very much for doing this for the rest of us. Thumbs up!
Nice video. I use shellac bin primer to seal edges and works great however it doesnt give you a finish like wood filler or edge banding. Pro and cons to wood filler and edge banding are - wood filler require more work w/ appying it and sanding etc. Edge banding is easier however you risk it coming off in the future if it delaminates. Wood filler is probably the best most permanent professional look in my opnion.
I agree with that 👌
I worked at a place where we would thin down Bondo and paint it onto the edge and then apply a black piano finish.
This video was like watching paint dry
Charlie, enjoyed watching your video about painting MDF. Would you say it's the same for painting mr mdf? Or have you got another video about that?
Yes I'd say so - you just get a more premium finish MR MDF (it's easier to paint). These days I tend to just use Zinsser BIN for all priming although I tried out Zinsser 123 on this series th-cam.com/video/4ylDeQXv1k0/w-d-xo.html I was a bit underwhelmed by it although a painter on my Discord forum recommends Zinsser 123 Plus, so maybe give that a go. Interestingly it's 123 not BIN that Zinsser recommend for MDF, but I use BIN and it's so easy to sand between coats. 👍
To avoid "Glazing" the edging tape, you can use a piece of brown paper over it, while you iron it. However after many years of using edging tapes on Chipboard and MDF I have given up using it, It never stays stuck and pulls off easily if you catch the edge. I now cap the edges with a proper glued on wood strip if I have to use chipboard or MDF, or I use the Wood Filler method and paint it.
I agree Peter, In always a bit sceptical of it. I just sand the edges well with a random orbit sander, and paint, sanding lightly between coats. The finish is good enough for me. th-cam.com/video/763yQg0Euwc/w-d-xo.html