Get A Factory Finish On Your Painted Cabinets |Step By Step | THE HANDYMAN |
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ย. 2024
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Painting your kitchen cabinets the right way. Don't skip any steps. Use good paint. And make sure you spray them.
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All my tools www.amazon.com... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Hello The Handyman. I am 19 years old and I am working as an electrician's apprentice with a solo self-employed master of 25 years. Since 16, I've been getting landscaping, painting and other odd jobs like a couple ceiling fans, some drywall repair. I thought you would like to know that I've been watching all your vids and learning everything I can because I want to have a successful home service business. I see you as someone I want to be like in the future. TH-cam Rocks!!
My friend, you rock! Guys like me wish there were many more like you, you can't hire a kid (or anyone under 40) to do trade work to save your life today. Stick with it, and keep watching this guy. I'm 33 years in the trade and watch everything this guy puts out!
@@billysyms5761 You're right man. Only a few of my friends are going into the trades. At least 90% of my generation either doesn't like to work with their hands or are too scared/lazy.
@@nashboucher3822 unfortunately your generation thinks life is (or should be) easy. They'll work for me a day or two and quit "you work to hard". Very sad.
@@billysyms5761 Yes, part of me wishes I grew up in a different time. Phones and new technology have a big part in killing a lot of kids ambition, social skills and work ethic. I haven’t been alive for that long but times have definitely took a sharp turn since I was born.
@@billysyms5761 I've been trying to get into the electrician's union and they've haven't been accepting applications in months and months.
A couple things to know about spraying lacquer for those who are new, learn from my mistakes.
This video is great! I followed this to the tee and purchased equipment including a compressor, spray guns, etc. to produce the desired factory finish. My only critique is that I would have loved a little more information about the spraying setup, compressor used, product preparation, etc. I'm a meticulous person and did lots of prep and research before beginning this project. After all my prep and getting everything smooth as glass with sanding I made the mistake of assuming the lacquer would just flow out when I sprayed, it did not! I had horrible orange peel and all of my sanding work was for nothing I had to sand everything again. Rookie move, make sure you do plenty of testing before you spray anything on you're prepped cabinets. My lacquer was drying so fast it wasn't flowing out seemed like it was coming out of the gun already dry. With the lenmar tinted lacquer from this video I found I needed to thin and retard the product in order to get he desired finish but there is no mention of that prep step in this video.
I thinned mine and retarded it in order to get it to layout without drying too fast around 30% dilution total, it took me some time to get to this solution but it certainly did fix my issues.
I had to learn the hard way I hope this comment save some of you from making the same mistakes.
Questions for video maker:
1) What dilution did you use when spraying the lacquer?
2) Do you prefer thinner or retardant for thinning or a combination?
3) What tip diameters did you spray with, different for sanding sealer vs top coat?
What gun and cfm compressor did you use? Been looking at LVLP so I don't need as large of a compressor
I used to chuckle when I heard you say "You are watching the #1 home improvement Chanel in the entire world" in the intro...after watching you for many years...I now nod my head in agreement...Thank you for all you do! you are making the world a better place by sharing your hard earned knowledge.
Old school quality! Takes time, patience and talent.
Sucks that quality has become old school. It’s only downhill from here
Just a few pointers as I have sprayed Lenmar for Over 20 years. Switch to the Lenmar Megavar Conversion Varnish. It is worth it by far. You will love the difference you see immediately. Also if those lights are not explosion proof I would be extremely careful. As with any solvent based finish any small spark including static can be deadly. Great channel keep up the good work.
Wow helpful info thank you!
I have similar lights and they are LED so no risk.
BUT still a good point to remember.
Yes… fine flammable vapor + exposed ignition source = BOOM 💥
When he said lacquer the first thing I did was cringe when I saw those lights! You've got to use LEDs for safety if you don't want to pop that roof off!
Nice work. I've painted a LOT of cabinets and have never used a vinyl sealer before... only lacquer under-coaters. And if we're "closing the grain", we just spray more coats of primer and/or paint--until the grain is closed. That's the beauty of lacquers... you can re-coat almost immediately.
Personally, I prefer an open grain look. Why use "real" wood (vs mdf) if you want the finish to look like plastic? When the grain is open, painted cabinets look like wood--not mdf. And I can usually explain that to a client well enough that they get it... but I of course give them the option to have open or closed grain--usually by showing them a sample of each. And, of course, we charge more to close the grain--since that takes more time and materials. I'd say it's about 50/50 in terms of client preference.
i think the simple answer on wood vs mdf for the frames is that poplar is easier to mill than mdf of the same dimensions. natural wood also stays together better. 1/4" mdf panels RULE for painted cabinetry.
"Why use "real" wood (vs mdf) if you want the finish to look like plastic? When the grain is open, painted cabinets look like wood--not mdf. "
Totally agree. Closing the grain makes things look like pre-fab Ikea cabinets. It's extra work and expense to make something that looks more low-budget.
Makes sense here, though: with the composite floating panel, you want things to match. Having open grain on the frame and a smooth panel would be a little odd.
I really liked your video. I wish you would have given more detail on the products you used. For example, “they make a special filler.” What is the type or brand? Also what type of caulk did you use? Another example, “ this is pre-catylized lacquer.” What does that mean and what is the benefit? Thanks and keep up the good work.
I believe the grain filler is made by Timbermate.
This is the exact thing I was thinking and it is not in his Amazon list FYI
I use a rotating stand when painting. You would not have to duck under, and potentially knock dust off your lights. (I made mine by taking the seat off an old office chair and replacing it with a platform.) I also use Duralaq and Ultralaq and have had very good success with them. The only difference is I use the white vinyl sealer. It's a great help for me in detecting imperfections before the finish coats.
Yes me too. Also use 3/4" ply cut down to 4x4" with drywall screws and bumpers on top.
Yeah, in our spray booth we have a lazy susan type set up that allows us to rotate the piece 360 degrees... which is definitely handy.
Glad you explained about the composite material (MDF) for the panels. If you use panels made of solid wood the calk will crack.
1:31 - Coors Light, the banquet of beers and cabinet refinishing. 🔥
Btw great tips here and instruction. Like the VO style as you work in a fast frame rate.
Look forward to doing the next cabinet door your way. The wife prefers having the grain show under the paint - which shows it's real wood. Versus the wood putty fill over the grain - which could give off the MDF look. Thoughts? Think I prefer the subtle show of grain, but could just be me.
Just FYI ... (I am a professional painter, so I'm not learning anything here, just watching because I'm subscribed and interested in seeing how you do), "dries in 3 minutes", dry to the touch does not mean that the paint / lacquer has dried. We call it "degassing", the paint continues to lose humidity for up to 48 hours on average.
I'm working at a luxury boat builder, I maintain the moulds, and let me tell you that when I paint for a repair, if I don't let it dry out a strict minimum of 24 hours (despite it being dry to the touch after 1 hour), and I sand then polish, there will be deformations from the paint still retracting due to loss of "humidity".
Respect what is written on the product, the manufacturer who designed it knows better than any of us ... but once again, just because it's dry to the touch, does not mean it's dry.
If I need to sand between coats it's ready to sand in 30 minutes. Says so right on the can. I set them aside for 2 days before I deliver them to give it time to harden.
@@TheHandyman1 Was about to add, but forgot cause I went to make dinner, if you're applying a second coat right after, that's fine, it's called "flashing", where the paint hardens on the surface just enough to create a skin on which a new coat of paint can be applied without causing any runs ... after thinking about it and watching again, you do mention you don't sand between coats, you're right on this.
If you were to sand between coats however, you would need to let it dry (harden) completely (30 minutes in your specific case, though I find that rather short tbh).
Main reason I made the previous comment is because I've had people tell me X brand of paint is shit and not worth the (rather high) cost ... when they were at fault for not letting it harden fully.
I get a little involved about my job, because too many people say that painting is easy ... then I go to their place to fix their shit job, and all of a sudden, they're surprised at how much better a professional job actually is.
Like; absolutely no traces, even coats, all the details of filling in the most minute defect, sanding between coats for a perfect smooth finish ... etc.
Nice job btw.
With each Cabinet I finish, a new experience I have. Years after years of experience with Cabinet Refinish, the conclusion is always perfect. Congratulations, a wonderful job.
Boston, MA.
Filing the grain is much much easier if you use a spray on high build , or filler primer. It also seals the wood and give a great base for shooting on pretty much any paint. Just used. 400/600 grit then spray on a single stage lacquer
what primer you use to fill wood grain?
I tried your recommendation on sealing the panel. It mostly worked. I used DAP bathroom caulk. I make my own doors so in the future I am going to put beads into the panel gap AND seal. As for the LINMAR, I had very good luck using this with a turbine sprayer without thinning. Grateful for that.
Loved the video and the process. As an FYI, you are wearing a 3M acid gas/ OV/ HEPA cartridge, indicated by the yellow label. You are paying extra for the acid gas protection which you don't need for painting with VOCs. You need the black label which is combination HEPA/OV or 3M 60921. Might save you a few bucks per cartridge and they last a bit longer as there is more carbon vs the acid absorbing media.
Maybe it’s all he had lying around.
Thank for the info, will help me in the future
Nice tips. I use a super light chamfer bit in my palm router to ease the edges of my doors before sanding, perhaps 1/32 to 1/16" at most and hand sand them ever so lightly... helps keep the edges nice and crisp looking, but not so sharp they don't hold paint well like you said. Proper sanding and priming are really the key steps to any paint job.
That cordless Dewalt sander is my favorite.
I don't even bother with primer from the paint store anymore. Just get some awl grip high build primer from your marine store. You wont regret it its one coat and done for grain issues or blemishes. Great video!
I was searching for James Taylor, but I came across this video and couldn't stop watching. My boyfriend has a cabinet shop. He loves to make them, but he hates painting them. I think he'll enjoy this video.
Your knife looks a lot like one of those Rambo knives that my brother wanted when we were younger.
Bet you were searching for that James Taylor classic - Factory finish on my painted cabinets, right? :-)
As a custom cabinet maker, it is the painter's job to caulk the doors and cabinets and fill all the nail holes.
It is the cabinet maker's job to repair all damage before install and prep cabinets to 120 grit if paint grade, 150 grit if stained.
Bro, I love your lights just hanging like that and your makeshift painting booth. Seriously. You could make a panting booth in such a tight area like yours. You don't need a whole lot of space.
I agree with the comments. You do very good work. The patience and care is evident. Not wearing any protective gear or using any decent dust collection when sanding though. Ouch. I feel sorry for your respiratory system. Quality doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your health. Look out for your future self!
Awesome tips, and just in the nick of time for me. Have a client who wants me to sand and repaint her kitchen in a custom color in a few weeks, and it'll be my first time. She probably won't like the price, but I think she's going to love the finished product now.
She won't like the price but this process appears to take around 4 hours per door, and that's not counting the curing time for the sealer, and then the paint, or removing, installing hardware and adjusting, etc..
And that's just the doors
@@warthogA10
So 4 hours per door.. average kitchen has around 30 doors which means 120 hours just for the doors. Then all the work that goes into the boxes. Yeah, I think your estimations are wildly off.
@@warthogA10 no..but seems more like 1 hr per door
The Handyman knows how to use caulk to keep the housewives happy. I am having a terrible time finding a place locally to buy lacquer. I used acrylic enamel on my last project, and the finish it nice, but MAN does it dry slow.
When I saw the Coors can I knew it was legit!
Say it ain't so.
You can get MDF profile doors these days. They don't move like frame and panel timber doors do, they are cheaper and they paint up a treat, with minimal prep work.
I like these better where you really give extra details and information about the process.
Thanks. I have had a few people say they don't like them. I think in the long run. The more useful info I can give in my videos the better they will do.
I have always been Leary about laquer. 3 years ago, I made new doors for my cabinets, my father wanted to "help" and talked me in to laquer. He sprayed everything with a spray gun but had the output at the full 120psi. He ruined everything. Laquer powder all over everything.
Well, that was one old fool who screwed up. Not everyone is a fk up
Day/Video 27 of asking Handyman to say Howdy in the intro. Caulk tip was on point.
Use featherfill catalyzed high build primer (stolen from automotive) on grain, then sand....unorthodox but fast and effective.
This is why H•Man is The GOAT .
I find the voice over style refreshing. The video where you convert carpeted stairs to wood (five years ago?) got me hooked. Not a lot of talking. Just showing. Keep it up.
Thanks for the feedback.
Man, 340k subs! I think I started watching around 20k. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for hangin with me for so long.
@@TheHandyman1 No problem! I enjoy your content and skills.
Have you ever thought of using a turn table when painting? I just did ours on a semi professional home owner level and it was a life saver.
The #1 home improvement TH-cam channel in the world 💯💯💯
I'm sorry if someone else asked this question already. What paint gun tip did you use? I would like to know the size the tip(s)? Is the tip size different for the sealer versus the paint? I'm assuming yes. And I'm assuming you are using two different guns: sealer and painting. Lastly, do you use an adjustable valved gauge with filter on your paint gun? If so, what can you tell me about it so that I can replicate your setup. Thank you ahead of time and great vid.
What kind of compressor do you usually use for this application? Can I use any size of compressor? What about the spray gun? Can you suggest a good one that I can buy without hurting the pocket? I'm a new DIYer when it comes to painting, and would really appreciate any advice. Thanks and more power to your channel!
i suggest priming bare wood first before applying caulk but whatever works
someetimes we do not caulking because depending where you leave make the caulking cracking overtime,like people who lives in boston where they use a lot of heat at winter time,
Your quality and attention to detail is absolutely amazing 👏
So, what vinyl primer did you use? What filler did you use? I could not find this on your tools, in the video, or in answers to questions. Help?
Ok. I looked more closely at the video. Sealer is LENMAR Vinyl sanding sealer. Still I couldn't find the filler.
nice video, Laquer we don't use any more after so many issues with it we switched to conversion varnish. If you are doing a one time job is fine but if you want to do it for a living then I would recommend switching just because you will save yourself so much $, Headaches, and frustrations. you will need some education for mixing the right amount of reducer but way way better than lacquer. Good Luck.
What size needle do you use on spray gun. Can I get the same results with an hvlp turbine sprayer? I'm learning and trying to get that factory finish . Excellent job by the way 👏
I'm making some assumptions here. That the lacquer and vinyl products are solvent based and that your "spray booth" is not vented and those lights are not explosion proof. You might be wearing a respirator, but the flash off fumes stay in the air for some time. After spraying I assume you take off the respirator and stay in your shop. Lacquer and lacquer thinner are very hazardous to your health. Just wondering about the message here about a diyer spraying solvent based product without proper ventilation and such. Just my two cents. I'm a retired furnituremaker.
...also can get the particulates in the air settling on the finish. Yes laquer drys fast, but some of those particles are a lot faster.
I get the same finish using oil based paint with an airless rig and fine finish tip
Kinda hard to buy oil based anymore.
@@LBCAndrew I don't have a problem getting it
As silly as this may sound. Could you please explain how to set up my air compressor to my airless sprayer? I used to ask my grandpa how to do these things…. He passed away last march and I wish I had listened better. I miss him he was my best friend. I was his first grandchild. He’d always say you need to pay attention because one day i won’t be here. He had his own car dealership, auto body repair and rental properties. He was kind enough to give me a rental and as things need to be repaired I have them repaired or replaced. However I’d like to know more things to teach myself and to also make sure I do right by him since he did so much for me. I want to honor his legacy. I appreciate your very detailed video it helps me understand and I feel like I’m able to do this. Thank you for taking the time to read my post Sir and take care.
Instead of using oak for painted door frames etc. use poplar or maple. This way you don't have to fill all the grain which is labor intensive and messy.
He didn’t use oak. He keeps mentioning it because half the country has oak cabinets that aren’t in style anymore
1992 called. They were asking for your advice.
My guess is that it's a "USMC Knife, Fighting Utility, Mark 2" commonly known as a Ka-Bar (after the company that first manufactured them for the Navy).
You should do a video on peeling the melamine and painting the particle board. I have 46 cabinets that are starting to peel away.
He did a video about this already - it was his trip to the dump. 😉
(You can try gluing, clamping, sanding & a few coats of Rust-Oleum countertop paint, for "meh..." results, but what's your time worth?)
You could replace the doors
We repainted ours recently like that. Use a heat gun. The melamine will peel off right before your eyes.
Grain filling stuff the same as for hw flooring (made by rustolium i think “pro finish”). If so, easy to work with.
That is so beautiful. You do good work. Thank you.
He puts a little caulk in for the wives. Wives love caulk, good man.
...and those who swear by how amazing their cabinets came out with an all-in-one and a roller. I can put on a pretty smooth finish with a brush and BM Advance which levels like no other if you move quick and don't double-back, but nothing holds a candle to a proper spray coat and good technique. If you've ever been trained in automotive finishes and you hear how awesome a roller application was... I have an old car I want to sell them.
This is good to know. Now all I need is a paint sprayer
Some guy came in today to paint cabinets, his oil based paint job on the cabinets was amazing, they look like they're made out of granite
God i dont miss doing this every day 😅
Coors will make every job look great,
Handyman watching you paint is like watching a graceful ballerina move!
A little Banquet never hurt anyone!
Simply Amazing finish on those cabinet doors.
Excellent video! Especially the caulk for the “black spaces”! I wish you could have done my custom kitchen!
QUESTION:
How to spot clean a white satin lacquered finish without scratching or leaving “smudges” on the finish on custom slab cabs AND without using mineral spirits?
The smell leaves me with a migraine every time.
*Cleaning everyday or every week.
I don’t want to screw up using the wrong products or technique and have scratches or ruining the texture on the custom cabinets.😬
The custom cabinet maker told me only mineral spirits can be used to clean the cabinets and the whole door/drawer has to be cleaned while avoiding the handles with the mineral spirits.
Avoiding the handles is near impossible. So that leaves the cabinets looking dirty near the handles.
I don’t mind removing the handles and using mineral spirits when doing a deep clean a few times a year for a truly “cleaned” kitchen cabinets but on a daily or weekly cleaning, using only mineral spirits, that doesn’t seem to be the “only” answer to spot clean the cabinets. Although I could be wrong..?
Cool video. Thanks for sharing.
I spray all my cabinets with SW Kem Aqua through a graco edge gun with 5 stage hvlp turbine. Still learning, still making mistakes, but not to many anymore.
The biggest game-changer for me was when I purchased a inflatable spray booth. It made all the difference in the world.
I watched you bang your head on that overhead light, good way to add dust into your mix. Get a real booth, best $900 I ever spent.
How long does it take to dry? I have been using Lacquer for years. I have a feeling it will be outlawed soon. Looking for something that is just as good but will be around
@@TheHandyman1
Dries in minutes for the primer, about 30 for the paint
That's not to bad. I will have to get a gallon and test it out. Do they sell it at SW stores? Or do you have to go to their commercial coatings store. What do you thin it with? Sorry for all the questions.
@@TheHandyman1
No thinning necessary! It's a very thin product right out of the can.
SW commercial only.
That inflatable booth sounds awesome, but takes up so much room and pricey, may I suggest an alternative? I use pop up canopy. Around $250 and disassembles neatly and requires very small footprint in storage. It’s 10x10 and fits perfectly in my 2 car garage when I need to spray.
I used to subscribe to Bespoke Post when I was into subscription boxes after graduating from magazine subscriptions. I would get Bespoke Post, loot crate, hello fresh, ect. Graduated now to subscribing to streaming services after cutting the cord. I could have used that caulk tip when I painted my cabinets last year. Will definitely do that next time.
Best handyman on youtube
THANK YOU. I’ve been remodeling our house, and the kitchen and bathroom cabinets have been stressing me out the most. I’ll be following your guide to a T!
What type of paint is that? That's a great finish
That knife you wanted ID on looked like a K-bar.
Great video, good scoop. Glad I found you and have subscribed.
Every time I see you drink a Coors Banquet in a video the amount I want to be your friend doubles
Same.
That is by far one of the best videos Tells you everything you need to know not a bunch of filler and really easy to understand great job
well....there was just a little "filler"...🤣
Can u put a link in to find the laquer and paint, thx
There is this great oil base primer that you can use that will fill all the grains in oak cabinets and after you hit it with 220grit it will come out so smooth
Can you name the oil based primer pls..?
Lol, love the full face mask on the beard. Fauxchi would be proud.
Would love to see a close up with the light shining on the door, can’t imagine all the lint n dust on it without a paint suit and overspray/dust collector
Love the ka-bar! Semper Fi!
@Richard Bradley was your answer right?
*8:58** tiny caulk smearing device... couldn't find it on your amazon storefront. Can ya add it next time you add to it, please? Thanks much for that tip!!*
Just ran upon your video. Excellent content. I'm curious about your wood filler. It looks like a thinner consistency to what I've used for other projects. What brand do you use?
Oh god! I wish we'd watched this before doing our cabinets - especially the part about the rounded edges. We're having a hard time spraying a good amount of coverage to bind the edges without drips.
Handyman, have you ever done touch ups with lacquer that's glazed? I know you don't specialize in cabinet finishing, but over the years, wondering if you've dealt with that. We have lacquer finished cabinets (or issue is on the top cabinet surface of a built-in) with a "chocolate" glaze. The aged accents were big when we built our house several years ago. Anyway some if those sticky Christmas decorations that kids can stick on glass and mirrors were places on the too of the cabinet after the holiday season. I put them on wax paper to protect the cabinet and keep them sticky to reuse, well some of the dye, or whatever, bled through the wax paper and into the lacquer finish. It's not on the surface. It looks like it's sunk into the finish.
What kind of HVLP sprayer do you use? Does it hook straight up to your air compressor?
Great video! Quick question though... what is the wood grain filler product you used? You said it was a special product but never actually said the name of it so we could purchase the same. Thanks for all the videos! I've learned a ton.
What brand paint what brand vinyl sealer is it water based ?
12 minutes in he points the camera at them. Hit the pause button.
What kind of primer and paint are you using specifically?
I have never heard of that vinyl sealer before. If you tell me I can spray that on the edges of MDF than paint over it without all the BS of prepping MDF, I will be the happiest #1 cabinet maker on all of the youtubes. LOL I have mixed thoughts about what you did with that caulk. I think what these ladies are really complaining about is on cheaper cabinets the fitment of the center panels are always loosy goosy.
yeah shellac works for mdf also. sherwin williams and diamond vogel also have sealers mdf can be a pain in the ass i dont even sand it before i spray it anymore just coat then sand it. no more fuzzzies! agree with you on the caulk its a bad idea in my opinion. that stuff cracks it looks worse. using a shaper and feeder eliminate inconsistent groves for the panel and lightly sanding the inside edges helps also. i hate the gaps to, but i will not caulk them.
as a black man, i chuckled at the "black man soap" lol
Without seeing any markings, I would say that is a U.S.N. Mk II knife aka a Kabar which was produced by several manufactures during different years.
Right! NS Builders. Super high end builder, pre-paints the edge of the panel so he doesn't get that line. Good tip. Caulk works.
What paint cup brand and what compressor plzzz. I want a factory finish too. I've been doing with trim paint all these years. Also can you use the vinyl sealer on previously painted surfaces?
I love your video, great job! I watched it multiple times and can’t find the info on what wood grain filler you used. Can you please share?
Also is this lacquer able to be tinted to a color or sold in other colors?
Thank you!
Aqua coat is a great wood grain filler
Awesome, thank you sir for this video. Am grateful to see this.
God bless.
Maybe I missed something but did you say you were gonna sand it after painting?
Looks like a Ka-Bar to me. I’ve had mine since I joined the Marines in 2020.
Semper Fi
Honorable discharge in 2003
@@frontlinefinishcarpentry4193 Semper Fi, man. I actually meant to type 2000. 😂 Now I look like a boot in front of all of TH-cam!
@@singlepointdc7749 you make mistakes, mistakes don't make you. I stick my foot I'm my mouth regularly 😂👍
I joined my junior yr, went to basic a wk after HS graduation. Parris Island
@@singlepointdc7749 Definitely a boot... :)
@@frontlinefinishcarpentry4193 Same here. A year in the DEP and left about a month after graduating. San Diego for me.
A little sawdust in the beer adds a nice country taste
Looks amazing! You have upped your game. I bought the HomeRight paint sprayer on a Black Friday deal. Going to paint my builder grade oak cabinet doors when the weather is a little warmer. Thanks to you and the helpful information you put out there!
Get a cheap propane heater ; Harbor Freight ( careful to hot will bring moisture out of drying paint - flattens the sheen some . Time is money
3days is all get paid for .
Spray back sides First ! If get a little marked , it’s the back side 😇
Hi, what is the brand & model of your air pump?
Do you seal on top of the paint? My painted cabinets are chipping
How do deal with painting a cabinet with shelf pin holes? Do you drill those after you paint? Just trying to figure out how to avoid buildup in those little holes.
That is the Marine Corps Fighting Knife!!! KBAR!!! Semper Fi!!!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Would it not be better to use MDF and save filling in the grain?
Fantastic, i love the creative process, looks awesome
What about paint dilution and spray gun orifice specification?
I build cabinets and doors. I also have a paint booth wear beauty is added. How in the world do you work in that shop though? It seems like I spend as much time cleaning /arranging my shop as I do working on products that make the $. But I know my shop makes money