One of the things I recently thought about when it comes to this issue with our cars, is to just take the time and patience and money required to send the cylinder head and all of the valvetrain components sent to cryoheat and have them do their cryo treatment along with micro polishing every thing. It apparently strengthens aluminum by 18-20% and extends service life of any metal part by 250%. Plus makes these surfaces slip off one another way easier and smoother because of these 2 treatments. Its more than likely worth it since we have these cracking issues.
Update you can run the N/A head from a vin8 5th digit focus se, sel, titanium which has the 4 ports versus the singular for the turbo and a zx3 exhaust manifold bolts right in. You can plate it off so it does what it needs to with the turbo (which that little k03 does mount into as well) helps with the heat displacement and parts are significantly cheaper and just a touch more durable (again due to the dispersion of heat)
I'll go on record and say that this engine is pretty reliable... Purchased mine with 4 miles on the ODO. It now has 119K and not a single issue (🤞🏾) Stage 1 Tune, Filter, & BOV
love the video man now i see how much and what's needed to start working on this engine, i wanna go with forged internals so this makes it easy to learn
It's known that newer Ford designs are right on the limit of maximum power, and that power upgrades result in broken parts. I'm not an expert on that engine, but I would consider coatings first, in which I would thermal coat the exhaust ports, cylinder crowns, top of pistons, maybe valves. Try to keep as much heat in the exhaust gas as possible, to prevent heat soak/buildup in the cylinder head. I say this based on my experience with ceramic coating from Jet Hot, in which I've had positive results in reliability, durability. It's easy to put a turbo on an engine to produce lots of power, but fine tuning the parts selection to get the engine reliable is another story.
Always nice to see your content. You actually inspired me to make my engine swap at home. I’ll be keeping the stock turbo and I went for the Ford Performance camshafts, which are super-mild as I don’t want to depart too much from stock, so I can tune it without going insane :) I reduce rotating weight from the crank and water pump pulleys, the crankshaft, the balance shaft removal, the flywheel and the clutch, around 40lbs total. Doing diff (clutched) and synchros too while I’m there. Waiting for a shop crane now.
His videos gave me the confidence to swap mine in the garage as well, I pulled mine the exact same way and plan on using his videos as reference for my forged build.
I just had my machinist work on the bowls. The real porting will happen with the 4 port exhaust head with the next engine build. The exhaust valves I got are the 30mm so we shall see!!
hi I want to mount camshaft piper cams stage 1 is there a gain in power and torque without loss as with the stock. I am in stage 3 turbo hybrid x37 374cv 554nm motor thank you
One of the things I recently thought about when it comes to this issue with our cars, is to just take the time and patience and money required to send the cylinder head and all of the valvetrain components sent to cryoheat and have them do their cryo treatment along with micro polishing every thing. It apparently strengthens aluminum by 18-20% and extends service life of any metal part by 250%. Plus makes these surfaces slip off one another way easier and smoother because of these 2 treatments. Its more than likely worth it since we have these cracking issues.
Bro please keep doing these uploads of the ST. Gaining more knowledge about my car as I see you take it apart!
Update you can run the N/A head from a vin8 5th digit focus se, sel, titanium which has the 4 ports versus the singular for the turbo and a zx3 exhaust manifold bolts right in. You can plate it off so it does what it needs to with the turbo (which that little k03 does mount into as well) helps with the heat displacement and parts are significantly cheaper and just a touch more durable (again due to the dispersion of heat)
I'll go on record and say that this engine is pretty reliable... Purchased mine with 4 miles on the ODO. It now has 119K and not a single issue (🤞🏾) Stage 1 Tune, Filter, & BOV
love the video man now i see how much and what's needed to start working on this engine, i wanna go with forged internals so this makes it easy to learn
Awesome work. Can't wait to see those numbers with the new Cams
Man that sucks. You look so tired and kind of beat down. You'll get it done. Keep your chin up, it will get better! I love the videos keep em coming.
You have me sad!!! I can hear the sadness in your voice on that engine!
It's known that newer Ford designs are right on the limit of maximum power, and that power upgrades result in broken parts. I'm not an expert on that engine, but I would consider coatings first, in which I would thermal coat the exhaust ports, cylinder crowns, top of pistons, maybe valves. Try to keep as much heat in the exhaust gas as possible, to prevent heat soak/buildup in the cylinder head. I say this based on my experience with ceramic coating from Jet Hot, in which I've had positive results in reliability, durability. It's easy to put a turbo on an engine to produce lots of power, but fine tuning the parts selection to get the engine reliable is another story.
Hope everything goes good so you can get your car back in the road 👍🏻
Excited for your build. Hopefully covid will subside and you can get your stuff
Always nice to see your content. You actually inspired me to make my engine swap at home. I’ll be keeping the stock turbo and I went for the Ford Performance camshafts, which are super-mild as I don’t want to depart too much from stock, so I can tune it without going insane :) I reduce rotating weight from the crank and water pump pulleys, the crankshaft, the balance shaft removal, the flywheel and the clutch, around 40lbs total. Doing diff (clutched) and synchros too while I’m there. Waiting for a shop crane now.
His videos gave me the confidence to swap mine in the garage as well, I pulled mine the exact same way and plan on using his videos as reference for my forged build.
Hey Man, always refreshing to see your new vlogs. Hope you get it all going bro. What were your valves like at 80K, significant build-up? Thx!
Angelo Lopecuazto
So I actually cleaned my valves around 60k so they weren’t too bad at all and the built engine had freshly serviced valves as well.
Focus rs heads are the move on the ST block
4 port exhaust head is the move for any ecoboost!
Give us some updated pulls in the ST!
Link for new valves and parts?
How did you take the camshaft gear off the camshaft?
Can't wait for the upgrades, whats the song @16:54 ?
Where are you getting all your rebuild info? I’m wanting to go this route but can’t really seem to find much info.
Stock exhaust valves are already sodium filled
whats the song at 4:44
Hi Bro? Got 2014 st having problems with camshaft seal is broken. Now leaking oil pls could you advise or make a video of thanks.
Ian Honcada
The only items that seal the cams are the two furthest back cam caps, the HPFP housing o-ring, and the vacuum pump o-ring.
Any good Walnut blasting shops in SoCal that you recommend?
Not that I can recommend no. I would suggest doing it yourself if you can.
whats your take on using the 30mm exhaust valves? and any port match on the exhaust side to the manifold?
I just had my machinist work on the bowls. The real porting will happen with the 4 port exhaust head with the next engine build. The exhaust valves I got are the 30mm so we shall see!!
@@tbr.performance where did you source the 4 Port Exhaust Head?
bacchus thompson
I don’t have one yet.
For VCR is it a good idea to boost a N/A fiat 500? I'd like to do the never before which is procharge or supercharge a fiat 500.
hi I want to mount camshaft piper cams stage 1 is there a gain in power and torque without loss as with the stock. I am in stage 3 turbo hybrid x37 374cv 554nm motor thank you