Man this video saved my life. My cadillac srx 2.8 has had over boost problems constantly. Replaced the pressure sensor and wastegate solenoid. Still same problems . The top two hoses where switched . Strange from the factory gm part the molded hoses route exactly to the wrong spot. Switched the top two hoses and bam fixed !!! Thank God
Thank you for the information, very well presented. Now I have a question, can you install a manual boost controller or rather stay away from those things?
If you add an external wastegate, what happens to the wastegate that comes in the turbo? Does it stay in and remain shut due to the pressure hose being swapped to the external? Wasn’t sure if anything needed to be done with the original wastegate
I have a boost open error. I tested my controller and air blows through from turbo inlet to waste gate line. When I put power to the controller it’s blocked and no air will flow. Guessing the controller needs to be replaced ???
So I can see how the wastegate solenoid valve works, but I don't see how this valve freezes up with moisture on a 2020 equinox 1.5L when you drive 35 minutes at -39 degreese.Where does the moisture come from in the turbo. Done this since new.
so the top two ports on the wastegate, do i cap the top one on the side off and then leave the very top one open? or do i leave both the top ones open?
What are some things that will cause a p0299 underfoot code. Can I unhook my wastegate and see if it will build boost when the car is cold it'll go to like 12 pounds the when warm stops at 5 pounds then hit limp mode and stop at like 2. I don't have a AP. Stock other than mbrp cat back and and a intake
I have a RS with a Fullblownmotorsports turbo kit on the car. Comes with two Tial wastegates. And now after 4 years I'm getting overboosting codes and my car doesn't really want to boost right. Car PSI reads 26 and Cobb will read 10 for a example.
Interesting... a discrepancy between what the computer is asking for and the wastegates are seeing perhaps? Did our video help you understand the system better, or troubleshoot? Let us know!
@Edge Autosport my car doesn't want to go into post really. I can feel the power but when I try to get on it. Obviously the Cobb is giving the real reading. So at most I get 10 to 14psi and that's all. Even tho the OEM cluster gauge is saying 26. But it doesn't feel like it at WOT. I know a week before it shot to 30psi and that definitely gave a red flag. Because I was suppose to be peaking ay 24-26 psi.
So on the lower boost controller are you saying delete the T fitting and only have that line going to the charge side? And then cap both ports on the valve cover controller? I feel like this left more questions than answered. There was a lot of “you can do this” and not showing how to make a setup work.
Hi @EdgeAutosport I hope you could help me. I got a ford focus ST with a turbosmart BOV and its causing overboost and releasing boost pressure when starting to build up speed. What would be the cause of the issue Im new to boosted cars so Im not that familiar on it.
It's really hard to diagnose cars over TH-cam comments so you may need to have a mechanic look at it if you can't figure it out. But a BOV shouldn't cause overboost unless the piston or diaphragm inside is stuck which is pretty rare. Even then, it wouldn't really cause an overboost during a pull. But you say it's releasing pressure when starting to build up speed, which contradicts creating the overboost. So I'm not sure, I would have someone look at it.
How about the factory boost controllers that only have 2 ports? I bought my car from a guy who had installed a manual boost controller before the factory one. I wanna make sure he reconnected it correctly
It's not a great idea to daisy chain multiple boost controllers. You might want to get a nice 3 port controller and replace the others so you have one complete system that will work much better than a modified factory controller.
Something cool that I've found on the focus fourm is someone is making a elbow that matches the exhaust outlet on the head and can be made without the top opening where the external waste gate will go so you can run the waste gate on a charge piepe. I'm assuming routing is going to be Similar? Anything you could think to watch for while changing that elbow to the turbo out and installing the kit?
Hi Austin - that doesn't really check out though... a wastegate ALWAYS needs to be in the exhaust stream or on the turbo hot side housing. It wouldn't really work on a charge pipe, that's a blow-off valve on there. Maybe I am not understanding your description properly? Either way, we sell hot charge pipes with BOV adapters, and block-off plates for the stock BOV to compliment - we will be installing one soon on our Half-Send ST! edgeautosport.com/cp-e-exhale-hks-ssqv-vta-charge-pipe-satin-black-ford-focus-st-2013/
My ATP2867R GEN2 with external wastegate are adjusted to 20psi and the tune are setting at 20psi and the car run well. I will install the Xtreme DI pump soon, should I leave the external wastegate at 20 psi or lower ?
Interesting but doesn't explain a system which has a pressure control solenoid AND a crossover/switchover solenoid as used on early Ford Focus 1.0 ecoboost engines. Ref Pierburg 7.04011.05.0 and 7.22687.44.0
I just have a question. My st just got a 2867r, I paid a shop to do it. They said I could only run 17lbs of boost because of a boost control solenoid code that pops up, did most car you’ve done with bigger turbos, did they do a new boost solenoid?
I’m completely stock, and just started getting the p0234 code here and there, with no other signs of mechanical issues. My question is, do you think this could be the boost solenoid you’re discussing sticking open/closed?
Minor correction. At 100% duty cycle, you say the boost source is all vented to the intake so that the wastegate doesn’t see boost. This is incorrect. 100% vents the wastegate to the intake and blocks the boost source.
Does the wastegate solenoid plug wire (electrical) matter which way its connected? Is there a polarity connection that is correct? I replaced mine but no change. The actuator works but the boost pressure isn't there. I got P0299 twice. Haven't been able to figure it out but thought it was this solenoid. My question is more importantly for the electrical connection , is there a correct way to connect it. Does polarity matter? This is for 2016 chevy malibu 1.5. Thank you in advance.
Post questions in the comments, or let us know something new you learned from the video:
This video couldn’t have come out at a better time. Just one and the tune for mine and will doing this in a couple weeks
I’m debating whether to cram a supercharger, turbocharger, or nitrous on my 400 dollar junker impala
Man this video saved my life. My cadillac srx 2.8 has had over boost problems constantly. Replaced the pressure sensor and wastegate solenoid. Still same problems . The top two hoses where switched . Strange from the factory gm part the molded hoses route exactly to the wrong spot. Switched the top two hoses and bam fixed !!! Thank God
I was looking for a video explaining my ST’s boost control. Great video!
The videos are very informative and I appreciate all that you guys do. From the uploads and explanation, it’s amazing and very helpful.
Glad you love our content, happy to help!
You're a star Mr! I am surely gonna buy a big turbo for my ST, from you guys! And have it tuned by u ofcourse👍
Thanks Alen that’s why I take my car to get it tuned by you your always a good help and always willing to help out with any questions
Very helpful video thanks as always!! Can’t wait to get my bnr 71 installed and tuned by you!
Glad to help, and we look forward to that tune!
Thank you for the information, very well presented. Now I have a question, can you install a manual boost controller or rather stay away from those things?
Excellent, very good information, it answered questions I had
Great to hear!
Appreciate this video good work. Couldn’t make that any simpler
Thanks, Glad it helped!
Excellent information 👌
I love the e wastegate from fuel tech with there 10 bar metric springless
If you add an external wastegate, what happens to the wastegate that comes in the turbo? Does it stay in and remain shut due to the pressure hose being swapped to the external?
Wasn’t sure if anything needed to be done with the original wastegate
I have a boost open error. I tested my controller and air blows through from turbo inlet to waste gate line. When I put power to the controller it’s blocked and no air will flow. Guessing the controller needs to be replaced ???
so if you have a Boost controller,, do you need to upgrade the waste gate then and just keep the stock one on ?
I have a Nissan Pulsar/Sentra C13 SSS
So I can see how the wastegate solenoid valve works, but I don't see how this valve freezes up with moisture on a 2020 equinox 1.5L when you drive 35 minutes at -39 degreese.Where does the moisture come from in the turbo. Done this since new.
so the top two ports on the wastegate, do i cap the top one on the side off and then leave the very top one open? or do i leave both the top ones open?
I had to replace mines a few months ago on my '17 ST. Such a pain to remove the metal clips on each of the hoses. Lol
What are some things that will cause a p0299 underfoot code. Can I unhook my wastegate and see if it will build boost when the car is cold it'll go to like 12 pounds the when warm stops at 5 pounds then hit limp mode and stop at like 2. I don't have a AP. Stock other than mbrp cat back and and a intake
I have a RS with a Fullblownmotorsports turbo kit on the car. Comes with two Tial wastegates. And now after 4 years I'm getting overboosting codes and my car doesn't really want to boost right. Car PSI reads 26 and Cobb will read 10 for a example.
Interesting... a discrepancy between what the computer is asking for and the wastegates are seeing perhaps? Did our video help you understand the system better, or troubleshoot? Let us know!
@Edge Autosport my car doesn't want to go into post really. I can feel the power but when I try to get on it. Obviously the Cobb is giving the real reading. So at most I get 10 to 14psi and that's all. Even tho the OEM cluster gauge is saying 26. But it doesn't feel like it at WOT. I know a week before it shot to 30psi and that definitely gave a red flag. Because I was suppose to be peaking ay 24-26 psi.
@@dg.8880 you may have a boost leak or perhaps a map/tip sensor issue.
Tial stuff always leaks and fails. Go turbosmart and you’ll set it up once and not need to play around with it again unless you want to.
Thank you all 4 the replies
So on the lower boost controller are you saying delete the T fitting and only have that line going to the charge side? And then cap both ports on the valve cover controller? I feel like this left more questions than answered. There was a lot of “you can do this” and not showing how to make a setup work.
Did you get over to the blog article linked in the description? That has diagrams and more in-depth info for you!
Hi @EdgeAutosport I hope you could help me. I got a ford focus ST with a turbosmart BOV and its causing overboost and releasing boost pressure when starting to build up speed. What would be the cause of the issue Im new to boosted cars so Im not that familiar on it.
It's really hard to diagnose cars over TH-cam comments so you may need to have a mechanic look at it if you can't figure it out. But a BOV shouldn't cause overboost unless the piston or diaphragm inside is stuck which is pretty rare. Even then, it wouldn't really cause an overboost during a pull. But you say it's releasing pressure when starting to build up speed, which contradicts creating the overboost. So I'm not sure, I would have someone look at it.
How about the factory boost controllers that only have 2 ports? I bought my car from a guy who had installed a manual boost controller before the factory one. I wanna make sure he reconnected it correctly
It's not a great idea to daisy chain multiple boost controllers. You might want to get a nice 3 port controller and replace the others so you have one complete system that will work much better than a modified factory controller.
Something cool that I've found on the focus fourm is someone is making a elbow that matches the exhaust outlet on the head and can be made without the top opening where the external waste gate will go so you can run the waste gate on a charge piepe. I'm assuming routing is going to be Similar? Anything you could think to watch for while changing that elbow to the turbo out and installing the kit?
Hi Austin - that doesn't really check out though... a wastegate ALWAYS needs to be in the exhaust stream or on the turbo hot side housing. It wouldn't really work on a charge pipe, that's a blow-off valve on there. Maybe I am not understanding your description properly? Either way, we sell hot charge pipes with BOV adapters, and block-off plates for the stock BOV to compliment - we will be installing one soon on our Half-Send ST! edgeautosport.com/cp-e-exhale-hks-ssqv-vta-charge-pipe-satin-black-ford-focus-st-2013/
I will be one of the first one to receive the EWG version of the mentioned elbow. It has nothing to do with this boost controller.
My ATP2867R GEN2 with external wastegate are adjusted to 20psi and the tune are setting at 20psi and the car run well. I will install the Xtreme DI pump soon, should I leave the external wastegate at 20 psi or lower ?
That a question for your tuner, tough to answer from the outside. If Alan is tuning your car, feel free to shoot him an email!
Interesting but doesn't explain a system which has a pressure control solenoid AND a crossover/switchover solenoid as used on early Ford Focus 1.0 ecoboost engines. Ref Pierburg 7.04011.05.0 and 7.22687.44.0
I just have a question. My st just got a 2867r, I paid a shop to do it. They said I could only run 17lbs of boost because of a boost control solenoid code that pops up, did most car you’ve done with bigger turbos, did they do a new boost solenoid?
Stock boost solenoid works just fine. I also have a 2867 and I used the stock boost control solenoid
Thank you
I just put my turbo in and i had the intake and charge messed up and i saw 29psi
😬
I’m completely stock, and just started getting the p0234 code here and there, with no other signs of mechanical issues. My question is, do you think this could be the boost solenoid you’re discussing sticking open/closed?
You could have a vacuum leak
Minor correction. At 100% duty cycle, you say the boost source is all vented to the intake so that the wastegate doesn’t see boost. This is incorrect. 100% vents the wastegate to the intake and blocks the boost source.
You are correct! Sorry for the flub
🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
....
Does the wastegate solenoid plug wire (electrical) matter which way its connected? Is there a polarity connection that is correct? I replaced mine but no change. The actuator works but the boost pressure isn't there. I got P0299 twice. Haven't been able to figure it out but thought it was this solenoid. My question is more importantly for the electrical connection , is there a correct way to connect it. Does polarity matter? This is for 2016 chevy malibu 1.5. Thank you in advance.