Ender 5 Plus Bed Leveling Guide
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2024
- The community needs an Ender 5 Plus bed leveling guide and so here it is! I hope this answers most of your questions.
#Creality #Ender5Plus #BedLeveling
Contents:
00:00 - Introduction
00:40 - Level Bed Mounting to Gantry
02:12 - Set Your Bed Screws
03:21 - Bed Leveling Techniques
05:28 - Heat Up The Printer
06:11 - Set Z-Offset
09:42 - AUX Leveling/Manual Leveling
14:21 - Measured Leveling/Auto Bed Leveling
15:23 - Checking out the Numbers
16:20 - First Test Print
21:22 - Second Try
22:50 - Third Try
23:31 - Conclusion
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Printer:
Ender 5 Plus (Creality): bit.ly/KFEnder5Plus
Ender 5 Plus (Amazon): amzn.to/3oCE1l3
Board:
Ender 5 Plus Silent Board: amzn.to/3xre4tY
My Ender 5 Plus Firmware (RECOMMENDED): • Ender 5 Plus Bed Level...
Filament:
FilamentOne Flash Orange PLA: bit.ly/FilamentOneFO
Tools:
Stainless Steel Rulers: amzn.to/3xqXuu8
Thickness/Feeler Gauge: amzn.to/3JE5CKb
Test Prints:
200mm Simple Test Pattern / Calibration: www.thingiverse.com/thing:305...
For Amazon Links: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Other purchase links may also be affiliate links.
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Assembled my E5+ today, test print running now.
Working.
Thanks to your video.
💜
Alright, this video was the only video that got my Ender 5+ to level. Awesome content!
If you have Octoprint try the Autobim plugin, it makes manual levelling a cinch
Kris, had it not been for you, I would have not selected my Ender 5 plus about 2 years ago. Your videos allowed for perfect adjustments. It has always printed great. Thanks for this new Ender 5 Plus leveling tutorial. A few tips I did not know, are now known. Thank you
You have been a huge help with my E5+ experience! I had a few issues out of the box (hit and miss with this machine) but your videos have been the difference and mine has been great. It was nice to see that you dropped this video, a sort of culmination of all the things you have learned over this E5+ journey. Your tweaks to the firmware made a huge difference in my auto leveling experience. Quick question, out of all the hot ends you have tried with this tool, which is your favorite? I am currently using Micro Swiss and find it acceptable but I struggle with the fine line of clog vs stringing in retraction settings. Please keep doing your thing, you have helped so many of us!!
Great video, Kris. An excellent example of real world printing.
I moved from a Pro to a Plus and this HELPED !!!!! I was a Pro at the Pro... This one was like learning a slightly new machine even with same type design.
I'm glad to hear it! Happy printing!
This channel has single handedly gotten my E5+ printing like butter. Great work!
Awesome! Happy printing!
@@kerseyfabs Is the Ender 5 plus still worth it to print for cosplay?
It's still my go to for large prints. I own two of them. I'll let people know if I ever find one I like more. Frankly Built likes his too.
@@alonzogonzalez4272 I 3d printed a whole boba fett costume on this thing, highly recommend it because of the build plate
What do you mean by remove live set z offset
Honestly thank you so much!!! literally for past few months been struggling to get my calibration sorted and finally this has resolved it!! the very first tip was a godsend did not notice one side was a couple of mm higher than the other and that kept preventing me getting inconsistent results 🙂
I'm glad it worked for you!
Clear, easy to follow and now I finally know what I'm supposed to be doing when it comes to levelling the bed.
That's awesome! Thanks for the message!
This is so well timed. I've been diagnosing my ever 5 plus. My first 3D printer for 2 days now and I've gotten no where. Following this my first test print was almost perfect. 3 out of 4 skirt lines actually adhered properly.
Awesome! I hope it helps you get going.
Remove the live-z offset before starting the leveling process and you won't have the nozzle slamming into your bed like that.
Thanks for the informative video Kris! Definitely have a much more level print bed on my Ender 5 Plus after watching this!
Glad I could help!
Thank your Kersey your channels been a life saver for E5+ !
I'm happy I could help! Cheers!
Brilliant Kris. Creality needs to link direct to you. Lost days fiddling trying to use the factory manual. Thanks for showing all of it - warts and all. Oh and I scrapped the factory glass.
Glad I discovered this video, and you! I was about to throw my E5+ out the damn window. Now it's almost dialed in completely. Thank you sir.
Thank you for the feedback! I love to hear that people are getting their machines going!
Ive done a lot of machine setups, very good video, love my ender 5 plus.
Great movie as always Kris! I could have used this when I got my Ender 5 plus a few weeks ago, as there was nothing in the instructions about using the z home button 😒
Now though, I use a dial test indicator and a printed mount from thingiverse. It’s really accurate but very quick, too. The feeler gauge approach is really good though and a lot less hassle to set up. 👍
I've watched this video like 20 times over the last 8 months. Thank you again.
You're very welcome! Glad it's been useful!
@@kerseyfabs next time off to install Marlon 2.0 on my Ender 5+. Is your video on that still up today?
@@JamesFraley I don't have a video on that yet unless you switch boards.
very simple and easy to follow. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
great vid, for those playing along, and the vid isnt finished yet so if addressed please ignore. Best to check the wheels on the moving assembly to ensure no slop and check the nozzle is secured fully down when cold. If that nozzle is loose it will move during long prints. Basically shake everything and ensure no slop in the machine and then begin this video. Excellent info, i prefer doin this in octoprint as i find it easier with granular control, i do like the on the fly z axis adjust.
Thanks for this, i just bought one of those feeler gauges to properly level, been going mad trying to get this thing working, i'm still dissapointed in BTT the board other than the flashing was perfectly functional, i ordered one of their boards can't remember the name something turbo or something, anyways, you gotta flash it via the SD Card, i got a bad board that i couldn't flash no matter what i tried, it just refused to pick up the firmware.bin, returned it, the replacement was also defective, needless to say, i'm just gonna be buying a creality silent board next time, looking forward to printing bigger things, all your videos have been a giant help thanks for helping all these ender 5 plus owners.
Thanks for this. It was a huge help.
Glad to hear it!
Hi Kris, good video however I have had the best and most consistent results by replacing the MCU with a SKR E3 Turbo that has the 5 drivers. This gives you that ability to use the Z-tilt function with a dedicated driver for each z motor versus sharing as driver. I use Klipper with all of my E5P printers and my routine is to home the bed, and do a Z-tilt before each print. I now only do a bed mesh calibration/bed leveling screw adjustment when I notice inconsistency in my prints and or when the z-tilt goes past the 5 times. This does not happen very often and I have not touched the bed leveling screw adjustments unless I am calibrating the bed mesh. My printers are printing consistently 24/7 and it has been months since I last had to touch any of the bed leveling outside adjusting the Z-offest when changing filament type. Prior to this I pulled my hair out, adjusting bed screws, with a slightly warped bed.
Great video, big help! Thanks
I'm glad it was helpful!
Man if i had this a year ago it would have saved so much time
Kris - you are the bomb! Thanks for all you do! Have you ever investigated the Ender Extender for the 5 Plus? Any thoughts on doing a video on the upgrade for the 5 Plus?
Thank you sir! You're very welcome. I'm familiar with them but haven't installed one myself. One day I'd love to bring one in to try out
With the e5+ I found after making settings adjustments in the leveling interface screen you have to hit the home button to save to eprom otherwise when you turn your machine off it will not save the distances. There is no other save to epromm button that I have found and this is kind of a hidden feature (unless you change your firmware)
And thank you Chris prior vids of yours helped me in the past alot! And this video definitely clarifies alot of unknown and unsaid for the e5+ leveling
You're welcome and thanks for that tip. I hadn't noticed the correlation.
I bought mine used , this video helped me alot , thank you
Glad I could help!
For gapping between the two aluminum bars (2:51) you can use the shaft of the 3mm (or 2mm) Allen wrench that comes with the printer's tool set. Measure just inside of the notches cut in the bar.
For that first measurement between the nozzle and the print surface, I can't see a reason for using the thinnest feeler gauge in a set. Creality has shipped a 0.20mm feeler gauge with other printers that use the same tramming process. It worked very well for my CR10S Pro V2. I have since purchased a 30cm long (12 inch) 0.20mm feeler gauge that I'll be using on my 5+ (also have a long 0.30mm). The length makes it a lot easier to do the center adjustment as well as the four corners. One thing to remember us that the feeler gauges are for measuring "clearance". Sliding them up alongside the nozzle gets you nothing better than a guess -- especially if you are using the thinnest gauge in the set.
Thanks for the tips Larry! All good info.
Great video.
I followed it, damn near frame by frame. No matter what I do, the measurement readings are crazy.
I've tried every way I can think of. I've been trying to make tiny adjustments and re-measure, and basically walk it in. Watch where the numbers move each time, etc... I've taken 261 photos of my screen so far. That's 261 measurements, and I can't get it so more than the home spot reads with a zero in the first position.
Hope I didn't get a dud.
Did you ever figure this one out? I just bought one and have the same problem. The measurements are like physically impossible. point 1 would say -1.8, point 2 +0.3 and point 3 would be like -1.1 or something and so on for all 16 points. This would either mean the probe is defective, or the bed is extremely warped.
I picked up a sonic pad and replaced the leveling springs with silicon. The reading from the sonic pad said it was pretty decently leveled, but the printer said otherwise. I loosened everything again and started over just using the sonic pad. After doing exactly what I did with the stock firmware, I was able to get every point to 0.0x after only a minor adjustment after the initial manual level.
I'd say get it manually as level as possible, and run a test print. I found one that's just concentric squares that cover the entire build plate. Takes about 25 minutes to print.
I did, and mine came out absolutely perfect. I was astonished.
Then on the very next print, the extruder went haywire and smashed into the front of the machine. Again. Now the extruder just grinds, and I'm still waiting to hear back from the Vatican to get approval for an exorcism.
Once you have followed the instructions up to tramming the bed you can use the Autobim plugin if you have Octoprint, Autobim uses the BL Touch to measure each corner and instructs you how much to turn each wheel to get it trammed, this is using actual measurements instead of feel, the feel method is ok and will get you a good first layer but once I had used my feeler gauges the Autobim plugin showed me how much I was out of true level and guided me to true level.
While I don't have an Ender 5 Plus, it looks similar to my Tronxy X5SA Pro in some ways. First, it's big and second it has dual Z axis lead screws. The challenge I had with my Tronxy is that the bed would sag (z lead screw would turn) between prints when the stepper motors are off and would sag differently from side to side.
So originally, I had to try to get the left and ride side the same before each and every print which was not always successful. The main board that came with the printer sent the same stepper signals to both the left and right motors. I swapped it out with one that allowed me to control the left and right side independently and now I can use the G34 auto z align command before every print. This command takes a measure on each side and adjusts until they are the same and then does the print. This made all the difference for me. Now my first layer is correct every time. I still had to level the bed and do the mesh like the video shows but now those settings get applied the same way each time because the bed is level from left to right.
I assume you could do the same thing with the Ender 5 Plus. But I would warn that it was a big undertaking to swap mainboards, configure marlin, etc. But I love the results and it was worth it to me.
what kind of lead screws does the tronxy have? the ender has 8mm on 2 threads .. they dont turn by weight .. on my mpcnc i got 8mm on 4 threads .. spinning easily on weight ..
Thanks. Was looking for something like this.
Glad I could help!
Tramming..CNC term. Digital caliper mounted to your router..ops.. nozzle would be awesome too. And to get a nice flat bed. We usually do a fly cut. Which you don't have that option. Of all my years of rough framing everything being between a 1/16 and an 1/8.. couldnt even imagine what a few thousandths of an inch..or a millimeter looks like! Truly amazing what these 3D printers can do. And all they are going to do is get better! The imagination is limitless!! I currently work with a 5x10 CNC wood router and have a small 30"x30" CNC at home. I've been looking into 3D printing and was really liking how this one works. I like that the bed isn't moving back and forth vs the x, y. It would be nice if all the steppers were on a threaded rod. For filament..i think it's just fine.
Always like your videos, can u do some about squaring the frame or skew options for this ender 5 plus? Would be very helpful, I like to print woodworking items as square as possible, cheers!!
Really helpful thank you very very much 😊
You're welcome!
Thanks, you're a life saver.
Glad to help!
I would have never figured this out thanks alot
I'm glad I was able to help out.
Well the beast is together, Z moves, X moves, Y moves, I move 😄. I noticed that the distance from nozzle to bed is way off so adjusting will be essential. I shall perform all your steps so I can ensure it is flat as a pancake. Thank you for your videos. Firmware out of the box is 1.70.2
I Think you can avoid the bed pushing up into the print head , by starting a print , go into adjust and make the z axis compensation Zero. Then start the level process. Just a humble option.
Thank you for all your great and helpful videos.
Thank you!!
I have done everything like this video said very precisely, and when I do the auto measure, only a few numbers are at zero-ish, and opposite corner at -5. Nothing I do can get zeros all around
were you able to solve it? I have the same problem and I don't know what to do. Answer please
@@baltazarlezcano8392 same here
The glass may not be flat
Same problem here!
@@Dad_with_a_droneHere the differences are too big to be just that. I even have "-7,200" in some points.
Interesting Kris trying to figure out the correct process for when you have Z auto-align and then the scan with your firmware on the SKR 2. Only found out by accident that when I hooked up Octopi it will not let you print unless you do a bed level first, doing test prints at the moment.
Thank you 😊😊
You're welcome!
after installing my silent mtoherboard best tutorial. if you would be in charge of crealitsy and also the instructions ouh man i wonder what kind of awesome printer people would get. keep up the good work i started watching not too long ago and its so awesome
Hehe, good to know that I'm not only one crazy using the eye method. :D
I have been looking for a good Ender 5 Plus leveling guide for a long while now, once I get some racking set up I get to use the printer I have only been able to use once since buying it.
I hope this works for you! Happy printing!
Yup, I can confirm solved all my issues too...
Fantastic!
Thanks Kris, your video demonstrates my frustration every time I want to print something.
Are there sub ~$1000 printers out there on the market you don't have to spend equal time messing with and printing?
I'm looking into that some. All printers in that price range will require tweaking he profiles for sure. I'm trying to find some good recommendation though for large format printing.
Thanks!
You bet! And thank you!
Thank you!!!!!
Great video Kris! Did you see the new Creality FW? Ender-5 PlusMarlin1.1.6-HW-V2.2-SW-V1.70.3BLTouchMulti! Do you know if worth to upgrade it? Thanks
Thank you so much
You're very welcome!
Thank you for this, it helped alot. Do you have any suggestions for upgrading motherboard and screen to something else? Not too happy with the creality hardware/software on this particular model
I have a lot of videos on this channel about doing just that. My current favorite is the SKR 2. I don't have a dedicated video on that but the SKR 1.4 Turbo video will cover the upgrading process.
I am awaiting the arrival of my Ender 5 Plus as I type this. Happy to be able to watch your videos so I won't be losing it upon assembly and my first test prints. I'm also interested in that touch screen you are using. What touch screen is it that you are using?
That's a view of the stock screen. Follow this setup and you'll be printing in no time.
Ok, was hard to tell when viewing on my TV. Watching the same video on my tablet, I see that. Tks for the reply.
definetly follow this to a t. You'll love your 5 plus after getting comfortable with bed leveling etc.
The mesh measurement can also show negative values. Maybe for new people have box in there for negative and positive measurements and what they indicate.
205 60 has been my goto f9r a while. wished I had this video when I got my ender 5 plus.ost of what you did I had to figure out on my own/watch and read a bunch.
A bit random but I thought people might find this information useful. I haven't seen anyone mention on youtube if replacing worn rubber rollers with poly-carbonate rollers are any better. I did that and I can tell you that they wear quicker (I had dust particles from the rollers all over the extruded bar within days) and they sometimes squeak. So if you need new rollers then stick to the cheaper rubber ones !
Owh thanks bro... now i can print my files...
Enjoy! I'm glad I could help!
My thanks too Kris, you might have some Swedish blood in you, spelling Cris with a K?
Well we both know that you need to know that your efforts are helping and you won’t know unless I remind you properly 😊
I learned much more about the use of the touch controls and menu features this time, thank you 🙏🏻
Naturally I am one of those people who always seem to run headlong into issues.
I thought that the printer was not so intimidating after seeing how open it is with little hidden, yet…
Wonder if you have any advice? My current issue is that my prints don’t actually start!
I tried to upgrade the Firmware and managed to level the bed, yet when up to temp the printer goes down to start
on the bed and stops, the process on the screen continues and within seconds it says it’s finished?
I basically downloaded the last Firmware from Creality and changed the name as instructed, before loading it onto the m-card.
I then started the printer with the card already in.
Well, maybe it could be that the firmware is not replaced? I followed your video for this process too. Yet did not download the extra software you used to check it. What should I do?
I have had this printer for a year now and only managed to print a tiny boat a long time ago! Friends keep buying me more PLA as presents ha ha HELP! 😂
I have the Insanity Automation FW flashed, you dont have to keep whacking the Z offset button as you can choose what size increments to use
@Kersey love the videos on the ender 5+. Hope you can help me out a bit. I bought the Orbiter 1.5 for my E5+ which has 4 colored wires, the E5+ has wires black with lines and dashes. Can you do a video explaining how to match up the correct wiring patterns for this direct drive?
Who was the manufacturer of the Orbiter? Each motor could have different pin-outs, so there's not one answer.
@@kerseyfabs Bought it off ebay, BIQU Orbiter Extruder V1.5 Dual Driver Gear Extrusion For Voron 2.4 Ender 3 CR10
Thanks anyhow.
So, at what point do I need to turn auto bed leveling toggle on?
Also, I am running you firmware from years ago for the ender plus that fixed abl offset and added pid tuning etc...
What's the next step up from that? Because now that I have upgraded my fans and setup, my bltouch is not in the same spot and I have no idea how to update this on the stock ender with your firmware.
I just got an Ender 5 plus and am trying to do the leveling and initial print. Not sure if its just my machine, but after i hit print it does a full measured leveling (multi point) before starting the print. Is that something that can be changed in a setting or is this just how this printer prints.
All you ender 5 plus vids I had to get one. I got an skr 3 ez board for it going to work on firmware for it I’m betting you have that transplant on the works 😬 I’d like to see your take on it
I have a neptune 2 3d printer a buddy gave me its okay works good ish kind abuggy as in when i set temp in the software and i hit print the temp goes down to a different temp and i have to go to the printer and set it by hand. does this printer have that issue?
I have a 0.20mm stick for measuring. I followed the steps up to aux leveling. When I do that I follow the steps and make sure that I get it right to the point where I can not longer get my stick under the nozzle (using the screws on the underside not adjustments to Z), then I go out then back into Aux and when I look at it and test it my 0.20mm glides under with tons of space. Any ideas? I've gone out and back in at least 10 times and it feels like i'm in the same spot over and over again. help!
My z adjustment during print changes the 0.1 not the 0.01 place. How can I fix/change this? its an Ender5Plus running Ver 1.70.3 BL with the creatlity silent board 2.2.1. I was reflashing my printer due to nozzle/hotend replacement issues when it started. Before I messed with it, the 0.01 place was adjusted. It is impossible to get a good level @ the 0.1 place. Help!
After "billions" of leveling attempts I ended up with pretty much the same process. Except for the manual leveling I use the bed visualizer in Octoprint, and when adjusting the z-offset while printing, I restart the print job after changing the value. It feels to me that the value isn't immediately applied.
Thank you for the video. I have been looking for such a detailed instruction for a very long time. But I have a problem - the table was originally curved ((( What to do with it?
If it's curved to the point you think it's unusable, you'll need to purchase a new piece of glass or other surface. You can buy them online or at some glass or hardware stores.
What is the minimum space you need for and ender 5 plus? I was wondering where I can cram one in to my workshop. Thanks.
The auto level screen on my ender 5 plus doesn't have an on/off selector, have you heard of that or how to enable it?
Thank you so much for putting this out there. I purchased my printer brand new in May 2023, and I haven't been able to get it working until today. This was super helpful in getting me going, as was your test print. I am wondering about something, is it just me, or does the Ender-5 Plus have a file name length limitation. When I first loaded your file, I couldn't find it. Then I renamed it to Test Pattern and it worked fine. The other question I have is does Creality not recognize .STL files? I seem to have to convert files to .gcode to be able to print them. Is that for all Creality printers? The Ender-5 Plus only? Or am I doing something wrong?
I'm glad I could help Elizabeth!
Yes, it does have a filename limitation. Good job working that out!
All printers require a sliced file and do not read models directly. A gcode file contains the instructions the printer uses to move and extrude. A STL file is a description of a 3D model.
HOW are you getting the z-axis compensation adjustment to go up or down by 0.01mm with each press. Mine only has the resolution of 0.1mm with every press and sometimes it feels like i need it in the middle. Is this a firmware thing? If so can you possibly link which firmware you are using as the latest one from Creality doesn't seem to work properly, especially with the silent board.
Hmmm. I'm not sure. This should be part of the screen's firmware. I don't have time at the moment to go testing available firmware but there may be some different ones.
When u do the bed measurement if the numbers are - 0.123 for example does the bed need to be higher or lower please
To me the gauge is the same as paper. Your still sliding it under checking for resistance. The one thing that might be better is that you know the exact distance. I still use paper and don’t use any offset which takes a step out. So it’s really just a preference I think.
More Ender 5 Plus content please. I'm thinking of getting one and want to see how well it prints compared to an X-Y.
Putting fingerprints on the bed can stop filament sticking in patches. It looks like that is happening here.
Short answer, similar quality, core x-y is still faster.
@@kerseyfabsThat's good to know. At this point speed is not really a concern. I'm printing some small components for a project I am doing. Z alignment is my main criteria. I'm getting some surprisingly good results with a Tevo Tarantula but I want a larger build volume and a Z axis bed for the larger components.
What if your using a laptop with creality slicer for the test print? I ask because I cannot do the fine tuning adjustment that was shown in the video. I have options on the slicer but it seems like I'm limited to how much I can adjust the z setting.
Creality Slicer is a Cura-based slicer. That means that by default, many settings are hidden to avoid confusion. You can turn on hidden settings with a button over near the settings area. From a Google search: "To show hidden settings, click the gear icon next to a section header. A window will pop out, which will show all of Cura's Custom settings."
How come when you did the auto home to start leveling, your axis settings are all zero?
My numbers are always weird.
Like I'll have a 1.3 then .3 on another axis.
Did someone else noticed the center where the printer is measuring on 9:06 is not the same as the center on 12:30 and then on 14:40? Thanks Kris.
I just got my Ender 5 plus. I tried to use the bl touch for auto leveling but I don't have the same menu options shown in this video. When I go to the auto leveling screen it doesn't have the option to turn on auto leveling. It has the most recent firmware update. Should I go back to a previous one?
Hi Kris! Thanks so much for this video! Question - on step two when doing AUX leveling you level the four corners and then back out and enter AUX leveling again. The printer then homes, and you repeat the process. Are you certain it is proper to back out of AUX leveling and go back in? When I do this it seems to reset?? I level the four corners to where I can barely get the .04 mm feeler gauge under the nozzle. When I back out of AUX and go back in, it's exactly the same every time -- NOT where it was. The nozzle is touching the bed on every corner. Every time I'm having to twist to the left (loosen) the same amount on all four corners to be able to get the feeler gauge under the nozzle again. I've done 20 rounds of this, and still when I back out of AUX and go back in it's the same every time (nozzle touching bed, gauge can't pass). However, if I level the four corners, and repeat the leveling 2-3 times without leaving the AUX leveling screen it is consistent. I can pass the gauge under the nozzle with consistent resistance on all four corners. But when I back out of AUX leveling and go back in (after it homes), when I check the corners I can no longer pass the gauge under any of the corners without loosening again! I'm just about to the limits on how far they can turn left, so I'm starting to wonder what's going on. THANKS!!!
I am having the same problem did you get a solution to it?
@@victorblandon8996 I think so... I think backing out of AUX (at least on my stock Ender 5+ is not the best thing. Do the same thing, just don't back out of AUX each time. And if you are a beginner (like me) and have adhesion problems after this, best advice I can give you - hair spray or glue stick on the glass side of the bed. I may have given up on the whole thing if I hadn't finally tried that. It's important to have success to keep you going. With hair spray or glue stick, you can get away with not having a perfectly level bed.
sorry for my english: after 1 correct print.. i start new and need levelling again... 2 day to try to levelling with paper or filer gauge.... cant print.. colision nozzel etc etc ... need to levelling all the time ?
I have both sides of the bed mounting plate square to the gantry and have a roughly equal amount of adjustment available to the wheels. Should I go any further right now if I plan to use a Sonic Pad, or should I wait to do the rest after switching over to Klipper with the Pad?
I also plan to swap the hotend for a Spider V4 - same question, when should I do this? This is a new Ender 5 Plus, just wondering how you would go about the setup if already planning to swap parts.
I’m inclined to set up the Sonic Pad and leave the stock hotend in place until I get everything running - mostly wondering if I need to complete the bed leveling before or after setting up the Sonic Pad.
I’m also swapping the extruder for metal, but I want to do this at the same time as the hotend swap so I only deal with the tubing once (changing to Capricorn).
Do the Sonic Pad before any of them. All of the settings and everything will need to be redone after you install that, so just do it there the first time.
@@kerseyfabs Many thanks. Your channel is definitely going to be my "go to" source of info as I get into my Ender 5 Plus.
great video. question - i am using octoprint and not an sd card. not sure that makes a differance but i cant get to the adjustment screen. do i have to use an sd card to get to this screen?
Yes. The stock display doesn't know when you're printing over Octoprint.
Would you mind telling me what font you're using for your Patreon scroll at the end of the video? It's a beautiful gothic font!
Sure! That's called "AR BONNIE." I received it in a larger font package a while back but I'm not sure where I found it.
Have you got any idea o. How i can get the auto bed disabled ?
I enabled it too soon and cant get back on this missclick-
(Recently replaced the motherboard, and the Z axis wont work propelry since :|)
Kris, I’m really struggling. I measured to the gantry, I’m at the “grab” level with my feeler gauges, but my numbers are still wack.
Mine pushes up so aggressively in the center that I have to shut it off, it makes a very bad sound. The center is physically higher then the rest of the bed. Where are these forums and boards that you mentioned to help with this?
Hi Kersay .... it's my first printer , i have unboxed it, assembled it almost all, now i have to connect the wires and bed leveling.
Question .... When I see the Y belts in front side, they go much closer to the one side, and i think they will rubbing, scratch that side on the frames 🤔 ....
can I do anything to make them sitting in the middle, not touching the frames ?
It is on both sides left and right front.
There is a possibility to adjust the position of the belt by turning the belt mounting bolts, but there is no such key in the equipment, so I do not know if I can do it ?
Or just leave it at it and watch it work?
Thanks for any suggestions 😊
Congrats on the printer! 😍 Those mounting brackets should move. Feel free to adjust them. There are three screws in each if I remember correctly. Just get the belts tight when you get them in place.
thanks for this video
I'm having a small problem with my z axis staying level while it's printing
when I first do the ruler trick and then I start printing it gets out of sync with the other z motor ..why is that?
thanks
That shouldn't happen WHILE it's printing. Are you sure both motors are active like they should be? To test, move around the print bed using the controls then manually try and turn the Z motors. If they both resist, that's good. If one moves freely, you need to check your cabling.
I borderline regret my 5 Plus. What a pain it's been. Flsun Q5 has been bulletproof and works every time
Sorry to hear that. I'm glad you found a machine that gives you good results though.
Mine have been running perfectly 24/7 for three months running ASA from different brands. Just another data point for the curious. Your experience seems to be in the minority.
@@garlicbutter1906 love my 5 plus also to each their own.
Hello Kris, love your videos but i have a bed leveling mesh issue with my Ender 5 Plus why are my mesh numbers all over the place (corner 1 (5.675) corner 2 (0.512) corner 3 (-4.524) corner 4 (-9.799) is this telling me my table has a 15mm slant? i ran an digital indicator mounted on the print head and all 16 points were within .0001" of each other telling me my bed is very level, so what's going on?
Thanks! Have you tried to run a probe repeatability test on the BLTouch? marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M048.html
When I hit the "Z Home" button, it doesn't do what yours is doing.. it just moved the bed up and down and touches the BL touch probe a few times, then stops and is at the same spot it was before I adjusted it up and down. Ever seen this?
I'm about to throw the E5+ to the curb. Each time I get it dialed in perfectly I can print 2-3 things or maybe lets say 30-40 hours of print time, then insert the nightmare of trying to get it levelled and dialed in again. I really thank you for this guide it makes it seem so straight forward. But in my case the outside of the test STL you provide prints fine and no material appears in the center and the nozzle practically drags on the build plate in the center areas. I've tried 3 diff build plates, orig glass provided, a magnetic flex plate, and the new updated Creality glass bed I just cannot get this to work. 1) Measured bed to gantry 2) got the nozzle to 205, bed to 60 3) set zhome 4) did the aux levelling thing several times 5) measured map/mesh looks great 6) tried your test print and worked the z-offset until I would see adhesion and fairly flat squished filament. Then when it gets to the X pattern it starts applying filament on the outsides of the X pattern but where the lines merge in the center I ahve about a 3" x 3" area that no filament even appears like empty area. Pulling hair out :( :( about to give up.
Check your start gcode in your slicer and make sure you have "M420 S1 Z2" right after your G28 or G29 commands.
@@kerseyfabs thx will check
You are setting the "gap" for the tramming while using the orange bed screws which is easy enough, what is an optimal way of adjusting this gap when using the silicon pads instead of the springs, which are much more rigid? Does one try to put a minimal squish on the silicon while maintaining consistency around the 4 screws, or do you need to compress them like you would with the springs to allow +/- adjustments later?
That's a good question! I don't use those but I would probably choose something in the middle. You want to be able to move them, so don't over compress. As long as you can move them some, you should be able to manually level well.
I have the silicon pads and I have just seen this vid of Kris's . At the start I have used a piece of 1/8 inch Aluminium by the adjusters on the under frame as a feeler gauge and adjusted the hand wheels all the same. then do the corner leveling.
If I'm doing this process with a textured PEI bed, should I expect the same amount of uniformity across the auto-leveling process? I've manually leveled time and time again and cannot got anywhere close to the ".0xx" measurements.
same here, bought one recently and the measurements are all over the place.
I notice that the "Auto leveling" feature is turned off (7:01) during this video. What, exactly, does that setting do? If you press "Measuring" with Auto leveling turned on, does it overwrite the manual leveling you've done?
I have a 5 Plus and I feel like I'm re-leveling it way more than I should be...
All that feature does is enable auto leveling before every print and then turns on the mesh. Make sure you have 'M420 S1' in your start gcode and you should be good.
I am on my 19th attempt trying to manually level the bed but each time I got back and click aux leveling, I have to tighten everything up again.
Hey Chris, I've just flashed the firmware to your version on the printer, however the screen is currently white fuzz, what dwin set version do you recommend what your stock hex file.
I never changed my Dwin set from the stock one. I haven't seen the screen turn to "fuzz." Since it runs its own firmware, that shouldn't happen.
All good, it's all fixed now, I screwd up right from the start, but managed to figure out what was wrong. Your firmware is fantastic, now just waiting for the new bigtreetech mini lcd screen, I don't really like the touch screen.