Ender 5 Plus Upgrades: Top Five Mods!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2024
- Which Ender 5 Plus upgrades should you do first? Not only will I tell you which ones I chose, I'll also give you sound upgrade philosophy and show you the before and after of each upgrade!
#Creality #Ender5Plus #Upgrades
Thanks to Austin P!
0:00 - Introduction
3:50 - Upgrade #1, Bowden Tube
6:26 - Upgrade #2, Nozzle
9:28 - Installing Upgrades #1 & #2
11:16 - Before/After Test Prints
12:08 - Upgrade #3, All Metal Extruder
14:46 - Before/After Test Prints
15:52 - Upgrade #4, Lead Screw Nut
20:43- Before/After Test Prints
22:16 - Upgrade #5, Part Cooler
28:10 - Before/After Test Prints
30:51 - Review
Creality Ender 5 Plus:
Creality: bit.ly/NewEnder5Plus
Amazon: amzn.to/2OTG9WZ
My Ender 5 Plus Cura Profile:
drive.google.com/open?id=1q6k...
Upgrade Links:
Upgrade #1:
Capricorn Tubing: amzn.to/310B9RW
Capricorn Tubing with Fittings and Cutter: amzn.to/2tGq1xq
Capricorn Cutter: amzn.to/30S0iy5
Kit including tubing, fittings, and extruder: amzn.to/2U5f6YF
Upgrade #2
P3-d MK8 Nozzles: bit.ly/P3dNMK8
15% Off: KERSEY2021
Micro Swiss MK8 Tool Steel Nozzle: amzn.to/2ROpkKb
Upgrade #3:
Aluminum Extruder: amzn.to/2Piif7c
Official Creality Upgrade: amzn.to/30vPabQ
Upgrade #4
Leadscrew Nuts:
Please note these specs: 2mm Pitch, 4mm Lead
I have seen the Amazon links switch out the parts and direct to the wrong ones! It must have these specs!
Brass Anti-backlash Nut: amzn.to/37CHIMX
POM Nut: amzn.to/3aN4VhB
POM Anti-backlash Nut (the one I used): amzn.to/36qy3rh
Upgrade #5:
FilamentOne (Traffic Yellow): bit.ly/3vVtvXN
40mm 24V Radial Fan: amzn.to/2RSqp3A
50mm 24V Blower Fan: amzn.to/2RNrcDe
JST-XHP Connectors: amzn.to/2tREQwT
Heatshrink Assortment: amzn.to/30RytWu
3D Models:
The Hero Me Gen3 has been taken down from Thingiverse. I will evaluate newer versions later but I have archived the Gen3 for my viewers.
Hero Me Gen3 (Complete Download): drive.google.com/file/d/1p7w9...
Hero Me Gen3 (Ender 5 Parts Only): drive.google.com/file/d/1NeK_...
The Hero Me line of coolers is by Andrew Soderberg (mediaman) and is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.
Needed Parts:
Hero_Me_Base_for_Ender_5_Gen3a.stl
Hero_Me_Base_Lock_Ender_5_Gen3.stl
BLTouch_Wing_Dual_fan_Ender_5_Gen3.stl
Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen3.stl
BLTouch_adj_mount_dual_fan_-_Gen2a.stl
Test Prints:
3DBenchy: www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
Spiral Rocket: www.thingiverse.com/thing:292...
Overhang Angle Test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:156...
My Cura 4.4.1 Ender 5 Plus Standard Profile: bit.ly/C44KFSP2
Informational Links:
Capricorn Tubing Safety Info: www.captubes.com/safety.html
POM (Polyoxymethylene): en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxy...
For Amazon Links: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Other purchase links may also be affiliate links.
You can support my work monthly on Patreon:
/ kerseyfabrications
You can support my work via one-time PayPal donations:
www.paypal.me/kerseyfabs
Where to find me on Social Media:
Facebook: / kerseyfabs
Instagram: / kerseyfabs
Twitter: / kerseyfabs
Contact: kris@kerseyfabrications.com
Credits:
Opening Music:
------------------------------
Happy by MBB / mbbofficial
Creative Commons - Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported - CC BY-SA 3.0
Free Download / Stream: bit.ly/Happy-MBB
Music promoted by Audio Library • Happy - MBB (No Copyri...
------------------------------
"Subscribe Button" Graphic by MrNumber112 • Free Download: Subscri...
Other music provided by Bensound: www.bensound.com - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
In each of my videos, I try to include links to the exact parts I used for my projects. This is for two reasons: 1) I want to make it easy for you to find the parts if you choose to do the project. 2) If I link you to the EXACT part I used then I can almost promise you'll have similar results. I always try to avoid linking to "similar" parts because I have not tested them personally.
With that being said, I have noticed that sometimes Amazon or their resellers will swap the part in the link for a similar part. Unfortunately, this is completely out of my control and I don't find out about it until someone complains or I just happen to notice. I always try to post the specs of the item in the description or talk about it in the video. Always verify what you're ordering! Check the specs and make sure the product is still correct. I apologize for any inconveniences but it really is out of my control.
Trust me when I say I have watched many of your videos and I love them they are very informative. The only problem is that I just got the ender 5 plus and most of the things that you complained about, creality has fixed most of the problems (like the power supply the printer came with a meanwell). It took a little while to get the profile but its in cura I'm going to test it out.
Thanks for the links to the fans and connectors for the Hero Me parts. One thing missing that I was hoping for is a link to a screw kit for the parts but I'm on the hunt now. Just thought I'd point it out as others may also benefit in the future.
Do you loose z height when installing the antibacklash nuts that way? I just installed mine and looks like it looses 10mm about. Why not install them in the orientation that the original brass nuts were? I don't think the orientation of the nut would matter right?
@@blitz355 I realize this is a long time after the fact, but I just installed the recommended plastic lead screw nuts with the anti-backlash springs. I tried the orientation indicated here, but found the springs have to support the entire weight of the bed, which makes actually worse than stock. Flipping the nuts over however leads to the lead screw not being long enough. I had to clamp the drive shaft of the stepper motors much higher than stock so there was enough lead screw for the smaller end of the nut to stay engaged when starting a print. Neglect to do this, and you'll be hunting for a spring and a little black nut.
3:50 - Upgrade #1, Bowden Tube
6:26 - Upgrade #2, Nozzle
9:28 - Installing Upgrades #1 & #2
11:16 - Before/After Test Prints
12:08 - Upgrade #3, All Metal Extruder
14:46 - Before/After Test Prints
15:52 - Upgrade #4, Lead Screw Nut
20:43- Before/After Test Prints
22:16 - Upgrade #5, Part Cooler
28:10 - Before/After Test Prints
30:51 - Review
The GOAT
I just added these to the video description so it will be easier to find and show up as chapters. Thanks Austin!
Yes, thanks to everyone for the information in this video
Thank you for the first part of this video. There are so many Facebook groups and Reddit threads of people asking to solve a problem and they ended up doing 5+ upgrades at the same time and then have no clue where to start.
You present a well thought out, methodical approach to solving problems and creating efficiency. BRAVO!
Great breakdown and explanations for each upgrade, thanks Kris!
Great work man. The new intro looks great and a ton of great info. I absolutely have to agree with the use it and find the flaws.
I’m lining up my upgrades Kris! Thank you so much for your diligence and detail. Top notch!
Awesome! Thank you!
Man you deserve 10x the subscribers you have. Your Ender 5+ videos helped me out and saved me a ton of time; thanks!
Thank you so much! I'm glad I could help!
Bravo! One of the best and most detailed upgrade videos ever. Keep up the great work.
Thanks! I think it's about time for a new one!
I gotta thank you again for all the stuff you share with the community! Ive gotten some great info tha helped from you and all that you do in the groups and chats as well! cheers to you!
I appreciate that! I'll do my best to keep it coming!
Great video. Thanks for all the information. Doing the before and after is something that I always think about after. Thanks for taking the time to do this. You're doing great things.
Subscribed! I have had seemingly nothing but issues with my new E5+ and your videos have been very informative! Thank you!
Thanks for sharing these and I CANNOT WAIT to try the replacement POM Anti-backlash Nut upgrade you showed! My Ender-5 Plus was/is making horrible squeaking noises when moving the Z-axis bed up/down in certain places. White lithium grease has helped some, but I am looking for something better, so thanks!
Your videos helped me very much with my ender 5 plus and all the upgrades,very informative, excellent explanations and everything, thank you very much Kersey!!!
Hey Kris! Great video as usual. Appreciated your work man.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video Kris, I've done a few of these upgrades now on my printer. One thing I would recommend as a 6th upgrade is lowering the front crossbar. That drove me bonkers for months until I sorted it out. I can finally see the print getting done. I've found it really helpful for just monitoring the first couple of layers.
Thanks for the tip. I've seen that done before but haven't considered it myself. I see how that would be nice for those first layers.
Thanks very much for this video I was having trouble finding the correct cooler head with the two radials this made it alot easier :) keep up the great work!
Upgrading everything you suggested except the part cooler. Fingers crossed this gets me the accuracy I am looking for on this new 5 plus! So far between your videos and Teaching Tech my quality has improved drastically. Thanks!
Thanks! I hope it looks fantastic when you're done!
Great videos,
Good Information well explained and much appreciated. After watching all your videos I ended up on deciding to add an ender 5 plus to my collection. And I was able to make an informed decision on what to order for upgrades before the unit even shipped. And as a bonus it shipped with a meanwell powersupply. Something I wouldn't have even known to look for if not for your videos.
Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Thanks Ted for the feedback! I hope you enjoy your machine!
Thanks man! Great tips!
Hi Kris,
I have an old cocoon create i3 touch printer and hopefully move to sla printing soon. I have followed your videos for a long time and think that you have an ability to cover everthing thoroughly and methodically. Keep up the top grade reviews and how to videos, they are a great help here in Brisbane ,Queensland ,Australia. Very very good work. John Hennessy.
Thank you very much for the comment John! I'll keep doing my best!
Brilliant rundown with great detail based on real life experience
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for commenting!
This really helped advise me on upgrading, thank you
My pleasure!
Kris, Thanks for the video. I'm working on a complete upgrade on mine. I won't be using any of the parts you suggested, except maybe the POM fittings. The best advice you gave me was to do one upgrade at a time and check the results. I have been more - tear it all apart and rebuild with all new parts. I will follow your advice. Now have to plan the process. Keep up the good work.
Having an archived version of the hero me 3 is a life saver. I had looked at newer versions but hate how the hot end does not mount directly to the plate anymore and has a huge spacer there instead.
Hey Kersey! The fan splitters that you showed in this video are awesome! Are you soldering the wires directly to the bottom of those JST Male Pin Plugs and then just heat shrinking them? I never thought of this before and its quite smart!
great video as usual , I will be trying a couple of these upgrades. Would love to see you make a video on calibrating the E steps on the Ender 5 plus. I haven't found a single video online and mine doesn't seem to have the options in the screen menu for adjustment that my Ender 3 pro has.
Thank you! Coming soon! This video has been on my list for some time now but I seriously want to get one posted soon.
Great Video. I just got my own Ender 5 Plus and had been doing some of the same upgrades, but had a question and was wondering if you had the same experience or not before and/or after you changed the lead screw buts. When the bed would go down, it would make this squeaking sound. Did you first encounter this before upgrading the nuts, and if so, did changing them help or not?
Great job Kris! Great minds think alike! Haha
Yep! A few of these are unavoidable. 😉
This is a great vid. My E5 plus prints like a champ out of the box I am really impressed with how good the quality is over my previous printer. (FLSun Q5) So far I've only done Capricorn tube and 0.6m nozzle, so 15 bucks worth of upgrades - adjusted retract to 30mm/s from 25. That's it! Took a few prints over to my dad earlier and he was like: wow. Next job is cooling and quiet board for sure (i want to make it quieter) so just downloaded the minefield that is the Hero Me zip file.
Did tubing fix the stringing or retraction change?
Just upgraded to the Hero Me 5015 dual duct. Best thing (and first mod) I've done and worked well once installed. Think I've got to dial in the z-offset just a bit but otherwise I'm happy with it. Thank you very much for your detail in covering it in this video. This definitely helped me give this one a go! Regarding the z-offset, any tips on getting that dialed back in?
Thank you for the feedback! It's really good to hear you're happy with the results. On the Z-offset, here's what I've found (your milage may vary):
1. From the leveling screen, adjust the Z-offset to one tighter than you think it should be.
2. Print a test print from SD with a relatively wide base and plenty of skirt or brim lines.
3. While that first layer is going down, adjust your Z-offset from the menu to get it just right. It should be flattened but not too thin.
I hope this helps.
fantastic. I was looking for a good printer review and upgrade guide for getting into hobby busts as well as doodads and thingums for around the house and fixes with CF nylon filament for more sturdy purpose-built solutions. I see now the why behind the whats and loved the logical and practical approach. Thanks!
Glad you liked it! All the best!
hey, greetings from Germany. I am currently installing a Skr 1.4 with tmc2209 drivers in my Ender 5 Plus. just try to get the standard display to work, thanks for the helpful videos. keep it up !
I still haven't gotten a pin-out on that display from Creality, so I can't help you. If you find someone else that's figured it out, let me know. I plan to replace the display. It's missing too many features anyway.
@@kerseyfabs I also replace it with a JZ-TS35, but also try to get it running.
I'm very much looking forward to the next 5 Plus video!! I've been researching my face off looking for my first printer (total noob), and so far this one is winning the race. But what mods it needs out of the box is the big question, and this video helps a lot. I hear the PSUs in these things are total poop if they aren't Meanwell, so I wonder if that should be on the list as well, along with that silent board option. Those Creality PCBs look pretty 'minimal' (aka cheap), so I'm very interested in the upcoming video on that subject. Keep up the good (and detailed!) work!
I've definitely seen that some people have had power supply issues and this one surely isn't top notch. I haven't proactively replaced mine yet since it seems to be doing just fine so far. If anyone chooses to though, I completely understand.
I know that others have had questions about the reliability of the Creality boards. Again, I have not personally had one die on me and I've been running the silent board in my regular Ender 5 for some time now. I think their silent board is still a valid options. I'll be covering two other options though in my video.
Great video! Thanks again for showcasing my Hero Me cooling system. I'm sorry you had the issue with the lightweight 5015 ducts. When I completed them I had not fully tested the dual setup with the other options (BLTouch and EZABL mounts) before I had to take a break for a few months. There's a couple great remixes that resolve the spacing issue for the BLTouch mount when used with the lightweight ducts. I can't take credit (or blame) for your choice of the 40mm fan shield as that is not my design. ;) There are now some brands of 5015 fans where the width of the exhaust port has changed. I am currently testing with TH3DStudios.com a revision of the Gen 3 cooling ducts to allow for these slightly larger 5015 fans. I hope to have them posted in the next week or so.
Thanks for stopping by again MediaDog. I'm still quite happy with the solution. Switching back to the joined fans was no big deal. It just took a little extra time.
I was sold on your design thanks to his videos and that is hat I will be running with now. Any chance gen 3 V6 parts will be on the way soon?(or even dream, Mosquito).
@@kerseyfabs Here is the BLTouch mount remix for the Hero Me to work with the light weight 5015 parts you wanted to use in the first place in your video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3884550
20:19 I myself use the Printer's X axis Gantry for setting the Z axis heights on both sides. Check first at the at the Lead Screw locations, then check the outer areas, in case the Z axis/bed mount bar might be bent as you move out further near the slides & end, or the main frame is tweaked or the mounting locations of each Z axis units are not 100 Percent identical. That way it is parallel to the gantry with the extruder.
That's a great idea and technically more accurate than my way. Let's just hope my frame is square! To the point, luckily I still have to manually level the bed which should square anything else up.
@@kerseyfabs Ya, after i did the Z axis off the Gantry, I then did the initial manual bed adjustment off the Gantry also, before firing it up for the first time & using the software & paper. Just to try to have everything close & hoping for a easy go at it.
great video, Will be doing some of these upgrades. Still fairly new at 3D Printing. Calibrating the extruder is that easy to do??
Glad it was helpful! I plan to do a video version of this but take a look at Matt's Hub: mattshub.com/blogs/blog/extruder-calibration
Great video
I did not only replace the plastic by a metal extruder but on a Bond-Tech BMG extruder which is way better than the regular metal extruder by using a dual drive.
Nice video. I am thinking about the SKR with the TFT screen. Do you plan on doing this upgrade?
Yes. I'm going to start with the easiest board to upgrade (E3) with a TFT35. I'll release my configuration and compiled firmware. If there's demand for other boards, I can do others.
@@kerseyfabs between you and @edgeoftech life is good
nice upgrades,with this cooling modification does bl touch will fit in stock position?
thanks for saving the gen 3 files, i have it on the ender 3's i have and wanted for the ender 5 plus. its a good mount. the news ones are just to complex
No problem. I had a lot of questions about it.
Great video! Can ask roughly how much these upgrades cost in total?
My rough estimate is about $70. It's variable though depending on which components you may already have around. For example, the fans a link to come in a pack of five but you don't need all five for this project. Also the nozzles vary in price depending on which one you choose.
Hey Kersey, thanks for this and all the videos, I've learned a lot from you about 3d printing and my Ender5 Plus. I wanted to know if the z-screw upgrade you did on the regular Ender5 would work the same and require the same steps as this one (but doubled)? Both of my Z-screws shipped bent and make a horrible squealing noise. I sent Creality some messages about it but no response so I'm just going to get new ones. If I can get upgrades for the printer, why not? Again thanks for the videos and thanks for your time.
Hey! You've been an amazing help with the 5 Plus so far, there just doesn't seem to be much material out there on it specifically. In this video you mention adjusting the e-steps and calibrating the extruder, but I can't find anywhere that has information on how to do that with the firmware on the 5+. Is there anywhere you have by chance made a video or have information on how to do that with the touch screen firmware? Everything I find is for the 3 or 5 with completely different settings options than I have.
Thank you! The trick with the E5+ is that it has to be done via hooking up the USB cable to your computer since the display doesn't have the setting. Then you can set the values via g-code commands. I plan to do a series of short tutorials. This one is going to be at the top of the list.
@@kerseyfabs that would be beyond helpful. I seem to have some fairly nasty extrusion issues, and I'm sure a lot of it has to do with the flow rate and retraction levels, but all of that seems tied into calibrating the extruder. Learning all of this is an absolute blast, but the info that exists for the 5+ is EXTREMELY limited at this point. A tutorial on how to connect and update all that would be extremely helpful! Hitting on subscribe now!
@@caseyfrederick9887 i agree with casey show a step by step how to fo the e step process.
@@caseyfrederick9887 Totally agree. Great video first of all. Taping into upgrading the firmware would help especially doing the upgrade you suggested. Thank you
@@kerseyfabs Pronterface FTW! :)
Pt. 4 The new spring/knob configuration may not result in any significant improvement now, but I would assume that the risk of a failed print later on, due to a shift will be less?
Pt. 5 How much weight would you estimate that the new cooling configuration add? My main concern here would be that the added mass could cause some additional wiggle when the gantry (?) including the extruder assembly, moves back and forth.
Have you tried configuring "Linear Advance" on the Ender 5 Plus? Teaching Tech has a video showing quite and improvement on corners and edges.
Also, you seem focus mainly on stringing, but I couldn't help notice that the layering on the final tubby came out a lot smoother than the initial print.
One thing I miss is an overview of the estimated cost of each upgrade and if you thing the upgrade is worth it. Maybe you could at it at the end of the 2nd (last?) video?
Thank you for putting out this video. Looking forward to the next one :)
Pt. 4 - That's correct.
Pt. 5 - I have you covered! Check out my video here: th-cam.com/video/nGxC0QkL4Mc/w-d-xo.html I included the timecode to the graph in case you didn't want to watch the entire thing. I can tell you from my experience that I haven't noticed any additional print artifacts. I have conservative jerk and acceleration settings.
I have to say that this TH-cam channel help me being completely lost, to “holy crap I can’t believe I printed that”! I honestly didn’t think this ENDER 3 Plus could print like this. It’s completely unreal how amazing this printer is.
Awesome Jake! I'm glad to hear that your journey has been so positive. Congrats!
Any chance you can give some tips on how you printed the hero me so well? My prints don't look any where close to as good as yours.
I'm going to be working on a printer calibration video very soon!
2 year old video, but it still helps.
I just recently purchased this printer and assembled it today. Tested out a pre-file of a rabbit with hardly any issues. Some small string between the eyes and a little roughness. I did an extra orde for the Tubing, nozzle and the Extruder and swapped out the stock so far and tested. 2nd print is a fireplace with small details and have no stings, but still have a little roughness. Should I move forward and do steps 4 and 5? Would that make the difference for the roughness?
Also thank you for the education, tutorial and all that for this printer. This made my decision to buy. Thank you 👍
Kris, thank you for your great vids. I have the ender 5 plus, and have completed a couple of the top 5 upgrades. All worked well before and after upgrade! An issue has just appeared. I am trying to print a flat bottom print approx 300mm x 300mm. The first 4 were fine no adhesion issues with no skirt or brim. The last three attempts have resulted in warping, so I added a brim to see if that helped. This is where the issue really became apparent. The brim prints but has poor adhesion. I have tried levelling the bed 3 times and it seems fine, and have adjusted the amount of resistance to the test paper from tight to able to just slide between the tip and bed. Each time much the same happens, back right side has rough to touch surface and after about 6 rounds of the brim starts to lift and is quite hard and is twisted off the bed on the right angle of the brim. Tried items from 195 to 205 and 55 to 65. Do you have any suggestions, you assistance would be greatly appreciated. I am sure its a simple enough thing I'm missing. Latest Cura for slicing.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad they're working for you. There's a couple of things.
1) Make sure you're using the auto bed leveling on a piece that big. It will need an accurate mesh.
2) If you're printing on the glass side of the build plate, wash with dish detergent and hot water. Dry with paper towels. Don't touch with your fingers. If you're printing on the textured side, I think cleaning with IPA will be your best bet.
3) Curling corners usually means too close, so I'd back off a bit.
I hope this helps.
@@kerseyfabs
Thanks Kris. I will use the auto bed levelling as suggested, I have been using the smooth side of the build plate, it seems to offer better adhesion and have been washing as per your suggestion.
Thanks again, I look forward to a more successful next print.
Stay Safe. Bill
Great informations here, thank you! What do you think about upgrading to direct drive extruder on this machine (Prusa MK3 like)? Do you think there will be more advantages than this upgrades?
I go back and forth on this one. I think you're going to possibly need to slow down your prints if you add more weight to the X-axis but the print quality will improve in other ways. Overall, you probably gain more than you lose. Being able to print flexible filaments reliably would be a nice upgrade.
Hey Kersey Fab
Thanks for the intro and review and these Top 5 mod on the Ender 5 Plus - Just got mine (my first 3D printer) and haven't unboxed it yet due to fall break in Denmark, I've desided to order the 4 first of you upgrades and get them installed before assembly of the printer, just a questing why a nozzle with .8 mm instead of the .4 mm seens like a big hole compered to the standart one. Maybe I didn't pay attension in your Video - but whats to main reason for that? - thx again for some good videos - are looking forward to see more as I dig into this new 3D printer world
I picked up one yesterday. Also my first printer. Took a few hours to get it running nice but spent the whole day printing today with no probs. I'm really happy with the purchase so far.
Thanks Peter for the question. A larger nozzle diameter just extrudes more filament per pass. This means faster print times. It can also mean stronger prints in many situations. Now this also means slightly less accuracy on fine details and corners but that's going to depend on your print. You can also have some issues with retraction and temperatures that you will need to tune.
From a practical perspective, I print with a 0.4mm nozzle 95% of the time and only pull out the 0.8 for really large prints. If you're new to 3D printing, having a variety of nozzle sizes is nice to learn with. Inexpensive brass nozzles is fine for this purpose.
@@kerseyfabs awesome info. Cheers. I just ordered the micro Swiss direct drive and hot end. Got a 0.8mm to have a play with too. Would like to try a variety of filaments.
Thanks for the review. What is finally the price of such printer after updating? From reducing noise, to noozle and screw..., I guess it should add 30%on top of the stock price.
Another note. I own a Bondtech BMG and thought I'd replace the plastic extruder with that. No go, the body of the BMG covers one of the screws that attaches the extruder/filament out bracket so it won't mount. Even if it did the in hole of the BMG doesn't at all match the out hole on the filament sensor. a custom mounting plate would be needed.
Thanks for the report! Good to know!
Loved the video. Random question, can you attach the 12v laser engraver on the ender 5 plus?
Thanks. You'd need a buck converter since the Ender 5 Plus is a 24V printer.
Could you do a video on the cable management for the ender 5 plus? There are not any good tutorials on TH-cam for this using drag chains like I want to use
Kris did you end up upgrading the Hero Me on the 5 Pluss machine to a more recent version I dont remember seeing another video on it?
not gonna lie those fans mod looks badass, looking forward to upgrade mine to that kind of fan shroud.
I have them on both of my primary printers and they work great!
I would love you know more about the eateps . Also it’s a shame that the bed cools down when the sensor detects the filament running out. I also appreciate your comments about how people should test their printers first before modifying them many people on Facebook groups modify their end or three’s as soon as they get them out of the box before even testing them first.
Pasted from another reply: "Thank you! The trick with the E5+ is that [e-steps have] to be done via hooking up the USB cable to your computer since the display doesn't have the setting. Then you can set the values via g-code commands. I plan to do a series of short tutorials. This one is going to be at the top of the list."
Kersey Fabrications I am looking forward to that video.
Great video. Why no silent board upgrade?
If I remember correctly, when I published this top 5, I didn't have a favorite silent board yet. If I chose one now, it would probably be the E3 Turbo.
Thank you again for this wonderful video. Question with the firmware. I just purchased the 1.4 turbo, TFT35 V3.0 screen and i just installed a dual gear extruder and almost everything is stock. can i still use your BIN firmware to flash and install the new marlin? i dont have any knowledge on doing all that stuff. also, do you have a file for that screen cover that you use for the new screen?? thank you so much.
Could you show how to install these improvements? And where is the best place to find parts
I personally reccomend the EZR-Struder from SeeMeCNC as an extruder upgrade. It's not metal but it's damn well made.
I've heard good things. I actually have one but have had no time to install it.
Great videos! Thanks! I just bought an Ender 5 Plus, and it's great. Easy to get up and running. Much better than my Tronxy X5SA. I was hoping that one of your recommended upgrades would be a support for the cabling between the extruder and the hotend. It just flops around -- surely it could be better. The Tronxy did have a nice cable chain support system. My other big question for the Ender 5+ is how to get it to pause at a particular layer so that I can change filament color. With my other printers, I eventually found the gcode (though it would take some searching). I'm fine with editing the gcode file and manually inserting the code. The Cura "pause at level" post-processing plugin doesn't work. Neither M0 nor M600 works. Any suggestions? Thanks!
You can manually pause the print then change the filament and click continue on lcd
You're a huge help Kris, I'm running BTT SKR 3 with TFT35 on my ender 5 plus through your videos, just started from 0 about a year ago. What are your thoughts on cooling in 2023 for this printer?
Thanks! I'd still go with the latest Hero Me, which is up to like Gen 7.
@@kerseyfabs Hah, just watched your new video. I have exoslides as well, so might be going that route. From one engineer to another, can't thank you enough.
@@goodz1219 That's fantastic! If you do, let me know how it goes.
@@kerseyfabs Will do!
Not sure if it applies to 3D printers with twin screws... but in automation applications on production lines where twin+ screws are used, having one with slight play is pretty normal. It helps prevent wear on either screw by preventing excessive force/friction if there's minor misalignment.
As I say... this is in regards to significantly larger/longer screws 🤷♂️
Every time i have to change filament during a bring (usually larger ones that take 1.3-1.8 kg) i always get layer shift. the print always seems to shift back towards the rear of the machine, and I've taken extra steps to avoid touching the print and the bed because i did not that the print bed does move very easily. I added more clips and ran tape along the edges to better secure it. I access filament and change it from the side and even moved the spool holder to hang off to the side to afford me more room to work. I have made sure the X and Y were properly homed, i re ran my wiring thinking maybe something got in the way and tricked the hotend into thinking it had homed when it really had not. The prints are 100% adhered to the bed, and the bed itself is no longer moving, so i have removed those as potential causes. I ensured that nothing was hitting the end stops that shouldn't be, and i am still seeing this albeit less severe.
any thoughts on this? I am not opposed to swapping out anything, and am more than capable to do any upgrade, wiring, etc that needs be done, i just can't find the source of this shift to be able to apply a solution to it. The only thing i can think is that these larger prints (protoman helmet from thingiverse at 120% for example) might be over running the stock boards capacity? or maybe a stepper voltage is off?
That's really strange. The most common cause of this would be bumping the X/Y gantry or the gantry slightly moving due to pushing and pulling filament out. On the stock firmware, the run-out process is controlled by the display. This means if you're not happy with its operation, you could swap the display for a 12864 display (Marlin text) and then rebuild the firmware to let Marlin handle filament run-out which _may_ be more reliable.
great tips! looking forward to change my ender 3 to an ender 5 plus. Just one question... I´ve changed the stock fans of my ender 3 to dual 5015, but I don´t know how much speed to use... isn´t 100% too much, and affect layer adhesion? Or it doesn´t matter?
That very much depends on your fans and how good you we able to get your targeting and airflow. I'd run test prints to see what kind of results you get. But to answer your question directly, I've never had decreased adhesion due to too much cooling. I have had too much noise though. On my regular Ender 5, I run at 85%.
What filament are you primarily using? Did you end up with an all-metal hotend? Only saw the nozzle replacement in this video.
Thank you :) 👏👏👏👏👏👏
You're welcome 😊
What parts do we need to print for the one piece fan cooler? I couldn't find a good angle to see and the list seems to include the parts for the first one you tried. Thanks!
Thanks Kris for all your helpful tips and vids. Very exited about getting started with 3D printing. Learning alot. Anyone have a list of extra hardware (screws, nuts, bolts, etc) that are needed for this little project?
Which part or all five?
Hi, I am not shure if it fits to this printer, but how do you think about turning around the spring and POM nuts, so that they press the printing plate down and not up? And my favourite upgrade, as already mentioned, did you try a direct feed?
Hi, now that some time has gone by, would you still recommend this printer for someone who needs a bigger bed machine like the Ender 5 Plus?
awesome! =D
i think that that printer should have a direct drive buying option because even if one uses a high quality bowden tube, it is still waaaay too long and requires quite a bit of tuning.
I'll be covering this as soon as possible. 😁
:D
@@kerseyfabs great
Thanks for your video. What do you think about ender 5 global quality and precision ?????
The Ender 5 Plus can be tuned and upgraded to be a very precise machine thanks to it's frame. Out of the box, it's a good printer but it's not as good as it can be. Also, quality and precision is very relative to expectations, so I'm careful not to over-promise here.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks. At this point my reflexion was 1 prusa mk3 or 2 ender 5 ????
when you changed from the two fan modules to the single fan module, is it still a 50mm blower fan? For me the fan doesn't seem to fit the shrouding. The holes aren't lining up as I'd expect for the fan.
Also, can you provide details on the screws you used? You mentioned m3 (black) screws, are they self tapping? I see some with nuts? And some are silver holding the fan itself on. Can you provide detail on what the various screws are, or point me to a doc that has better details on the fan shrouding assembly?
Super video! I applauded for $5.00 👏👏
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate it!
One of my stock fans has had a bit of bearing damage after a pretty gnarly failed print that backed up into the fan housing and trapped the blades - I'm going to need to get it replaced and decided I may as well go through this upgrade while im at it. Your instructions are great, my only question is, what size/type screws are you using with these fan mounting parts and did you get them on amazon as well?
Sorry to hear about the damage. Almost all 3D printer screws are metric screws. These usually range from m3 to m5 and you'll need various lengths. Something like this set is a great start but I can't promise it will have everything: amzn.to/3kZLfLD
For mounting the fans and hotend, I think all the screws are m3.
@@kerseyfabs Sweet! thanks. the stock fan was missing a blade, and the vibration would make it impossible to continue working so I took it apart and super glued the missing blade back in place just so i could get the balance back and functionality back long enough to print the mounts in your suggested upgrade, which i intended to do anyways - but desperation has made it necessary. I suppose I'll switch to an all metal hotend while im at it and get it all over with at once. Love your channel, Thanks for the help!
I’m having adhesion issues, I’ve tried tape and glue. Would you recommend enclosing it?
You know what I got from this video? A Ender 5 plus is a badass printer stock.
agree.... especially when spending about $550 for it! but nice to have these options... great video, thanks!
my plastic extruder broke a few days ago. I got horrible filament off amazon that broke and got stuck in my tube causing the motor to continue spinning and adding force pushing the tube to pull it until it cracked from what i can tell since i wasnt home. i upgraded mine for 20$ or so for a metal one. Highly recommend it because of the amount of damage it can do if it does end up cracking. Not something i thought would ever be an issue until it happened.
Thanks for the video but on the leadscrews did you try the POM nuts that were not anti Backlash? Reason I ask is on a Z axis since the weight already loads the nut there is no need for antibacklash on a Z axis. In fact the added drag of the spring could cause inconsistency and have my hysteresis (lost motion) between each screw. Your thoughts on this?
Hey Marc! I do have the non-anti-backlash nuts and they do work of course. The only reason I added the anti-backlash is because I thought it would help with rigidity and reduce some potential issues with z-hop. I think the motors have plenty of torque due to the shallow angle of the screws to resist and drag created. If I had more time, I would love to test accuracy of both solutions using a gauge.
Tryed this upgrade and one side of the bed keeps dropping just a little. Micron 14 on one side and it drops to 15.5 on the other I am not sure if it is the nuts or the cuppler as it just slips a little and you can watch the moter turn and it stops at the 15.5 mark.
Any ideas or sujestions on this?
Upgrade 5, fastener list would be helpful, plus print orientation you used (I read the remarks at URL, but would like to know your selected build orientations)
I realize that since publication, the Hero Me Gen3 has been removed. I'm working to republish it for the Ender 5 and Plus and will post information when it's available.
In the Gen4 replacement files, it also appears here is an interference between left duct 5015 and the BT mount.. two pieces trying to occupy same space. I look forward to a dual 5015 complete solution, and thanks for your in-depth research. As to the delrin anti-backlash nut, that would help most if z-hop is enabled, but the real deficiency in the Ender 4 and Ender 5 is the rod slide, a MGN7 would be so much stiffer.
Very nice. Video I have a plus myself. I have done those upgrades and more. Any chance you cOuld give me guidance on how to calibrate the extruder on the ender 5 plus with stock firm ware. Well the same version you did in you last video
It's coming. Stay tuned!
Has Micro Swiss let you looked at the new Direct Drive Extruder they are making for the Ender 5 Plus? Any thoughts on maybe waiting for the new extruder vs. the all metal HotEnd now?
i have not tested one yet. I'd love to though if they'll send one over. I'd like to compare the performance versus a Hemera. If you want to go ahead and get the hotend though, you can. They sell the extruder only for the Ender 3 setup.
My first upgrade was the tubing ,with all the upgrades it soon be a ender 5 pro
Replacing a Cre
ality cr-10s with either an Ender 5 pro or a Plus (already have an E3 Pro). Was on the fence about which one but after seeing you are wearing the same glasses as me I've taken it as a sign and said screw it, Plus it is ! :) As a side not I literally get perfect prints on both, I just need something new to play with. I print literally everything at 0.2 Nozzle, 0.08 layer as I need the quality
Congrats man! And cool on the glasses! Given that you already have those other two I would have definitely recommended the Plus. You have good experience with Creality printers and I'm sure you can figure out how to use the extra print volume. Happy printing!
The capricorn tube has one big issue. You cant use cheaper filament. I bought one and i wasnt happy with the tube. you always need the perfect filament. The second rocket looks better and the herme 2 gen3 is the best fan ever. Great work again. Thanks :)
I've heard that about Capricorn but haven't experience it myself. I try a lot of filament, I guess I've been lucky so far.
@@kerseyfabs keep up the great work and i cant wait on the 32bit skr video :)
So my only question is what's your opion of magnetic flex plate for the bed any opinion of one to get
Silly question. This is my first time upgrading the cooling component and wanted to know where you get the screws for the one-piece BLTouch_adj_mount_dual_fan part.
I'd buy screw assortments in the beginning that should have what you need for a number of projects. Something like this: amzn.to/3NjZxo1
Unless you know exactly what you need.
I know this is old, but that plastic extruder arm is and always will be a "must change". It breaks in the rear at the pivot point causing massive underextrusion. Some break right away, some after quite a while. But it's a printable fix that takes < 1hr, or as you mentioned, you can buy a metal one cheap. It will save a ton of headache and confusion since you can't actually see that it's broken without removing it.
Yep! A must! Thanks for the feedback!
Just picked up a 5 plus, any chance you could link that print for me?
I just ordered the printer, and all of the upgrades for through your links, instead of upgrading should I just put these on to begin with?
I hope you have a terrific experience with your printer! Don't just add them. You need to make sure the printer works well out of the box first. You want to be sure where potential problems come from. Take your time to understand what the upgrades are doing. Find some fun test prints.
Wo bitte finde ich die Teile für den Bauteillüfter ? Ein Link zu den Kunststoffmuttern für die Z Achse wäre super, würde dann auch meinen Ender 5 darauf umrüsten. Danke
At the end of this video, you mention that you're going to do a video on upgrading the electronics. I've nearly finished upgrading my E5P with a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209s. It's very non-trivial. For one thing, it's impossible to keep the existing DWIN screen with the current (2.0.4.4) Marlin release. I've switched to a BTT TFT35-3.0. As time goes by, I'm learning to appreciate its ugly 12864 mode more than it's slick touch-screen mode.
If you like, we can exchange notes on the process.
Thanks Don for the offer. You're absolutely right about it being non-trivial and about the display swap being a must. Not only from a functional perspective do you need to change out the display but you also gain so much control from the traditional LCD. Feel free to drop me an e-mail or message me on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with your details. My contact info is in the description. Thanks!
How did you compile the Marlin firmware? I just bought the same setup for my E5P, but am having serious trouble finding configuration.h files for the Plus. The other Enders are easy to find, but the Plus seems conspicuously absent from the 'examples' file. Any insight you could provide would be *greatly* appreciated!
Don Krapf I’m doing the same. Mind sharing your notes with me?
@@jetthreat5000 - I'd be happy to share my notes and config files. I'm not sure how best to do it.
I'm sure my config files aren't perfect, but they're close enough that I'm printing with them.
Does the Hero Me Gen 6 version have the same offset as the Hero Me Gen 3? Wondering If I can use your firmware changes for Gen 3 hero me with Gen 6 hero me. Thanks!
where can I find that cooler mount for the dual fans that fits with the BL touch on the ender 5 plus? I like that setup and bought all the parts / fans etc to replicate this, but I can't find the files for that mount anywhere. the bantamount site seems like it's not really kept up with anymore?
I'd check out HeroMe Gen7. It's the latest and greatest: www.printables.com/model/39322-hero-me-gen7-master-suite-release-21
Do you think they will be making a way to keep the bed hot when the printer detects running out of filament?
That would take new firmware. I haven't heard of them releasing any new versions. They told me they were planning to release the source though. From there we may be able to fix it.
Kersey Fabrications . Thanks !
My ender 5 plus has some cracking noises coming from the lead screw area. Could that be the screws themselves or is it the nut?
Hey Kris. Any chance you could record a walk through video for the new HeroMe Gen 5? I have the MicroSwiss Hot end and just want to try and get the best cooler.
I'd love to but I have such a long list! I'll put a check mark by that one since you asked. 👍