Jankiest 3D printing tips that actually work
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
- Check out my 2nd channel, TT Racing: / @ttracingyt
Sometimes you just need the part, even if the process is compromised. In this video, we go through the dodgiest 3D printing shortcuts and hacks that actually work. These may get you through in a pinch, but I would not recommend them long term.
Please own up to which of these you’ve tried, and add anything good/bad ones I’ve missed.
0:00 Introduction
0:44 Fixing it with fire
1:39 Old school part cooling
Torture test by Simon: www.printables.com/model/3360...
3:31 Derelicte enclosure
ABS explainer video: • Printing ABS with an o...
Wham Bam pop up enclosure test: • Pop up 3D printer encl...
6:01 Who needs CAD?
7:23 G10 bed on a budget
Makers Muse video on G10 bed: • G10 - The best print s...
VPS Data G10 beds: vpsdata.shop/
10:04 Colouring in support
Support material guide: • Support material compl...
Sharpie colouring video: • Smart multi-colour 3D ...
13:15 Joining spools of filament the jank way
Tylman Designs filament joiner and winder: • PET bottle to 3D print...
Capricorn PTFE safety page: www.captubes.com/safety.html
Skinny PTFE tube (affiliate): amzn.to/4bq1cW4
15:39 Conclusion
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"But don't worry, we can move the bar lower." 🤣
The sharpie trick was amazing. This is something you could easily integrate into a 3d printer's nozzle.....
Exactly what i was thinking... Would need slicer support but it's doable
My thought was actually that sharpie colored print video he referenced, but building at least a single color version of it, using something like interface layers and modifying the python script it could print then after it did the interface part it would color over that with sharpie.
@@Charely6 I believe that this has already been done by the same person who originally made the sharpie color printing contraption
I tried this a view years ago with simplify 3D but the main problem was the slicer.
I used a clickable permanent marker and a "tool change" script to activate it.
Maybe orca slicer can implement something like that. Simplify 3D didn't want to help me when I tried that.
Yep with a tiny servo
“If you’re going to do it you might as well do it right, with fire” man is an honorary Floridian.
Bet he would definitely be down for some bogging.
@@yusky03 hell so am I brother! Lmfao
As you can tell from my username...I can unfortunately relate to this a little too much :o)
@@Chad.The.Flornadian Pasco here. Born and raised a wild Florida man. Seen all these transplants come down and freak out over a Cat 1 hurricane and I’m speeding down i75 eating a Publix sandwich
I bought a small tourch just for that reason
For a cheap way to dry your filament:
You have a nice heated surface already! Just stick the spool on your heated bed, set an appropriate temperate, cover with cardbox box or similar. and go.
I know that the Bambu X1 series and the P1S has the option to dry filament using the heated bed in the firmware. On the screen for the printer there is an option under Utilities called Dry Filament. In there one chooses the type of filament which selects a preset value for the bed ( between 65-75 C for PLA, 75-85 C for PETG, 90-100 C for ABS, etc). It recommends putting a cardboard box over the spool of filament and turning it over halfway through the 12 hour drying cycle.
@@capitalinventor4823 Fun fact, BBL even designed a cover that you can print and put over the spool. Almost certainly not more effective than a cardboard box but it looks kinda cool.
Also the P1S doesn't have the option in the printer settings but they've published the times and temps online so you can just set the bed temp manually and set a timer, I really wish they'd add it to Bambu Handy and/or Bambu Studio so I don't have to do it manually
For a bonus wire one of those almost useless ender cooling fans to the top of your cardboard box to help remove some of the moisture
@@williwonti That's way too professional. Put a couple tiny holes in the top and bottom of the box or bag. The hot moist air leaves all by itself!
The problem in some printer configurations is that the thermal runaway protection might kick in and shutoff the bed heat if a print hasn't started after x number of minutes. The default Marlin config on my Ender 3 shuts off the bed if a print hasn't started in 10 minutes.
I am a firm believer in a janky cardboard enclosure. The thick cardboard that comes on new bed mattresses is perfect. It's thick enough that you can hot glue it together, I actually hot glue the cardboard to an old hardwood coffee table I put my 3d printers on. It works so good, I even use some packing tape to make hinges so I have cardboard doors on my cardboard enclosure, it's so janky it's awesome.
Hopefully you will never get a printer to set on fire.
For what it's worth, every version of Cura I've ever used has a checkbox for "union overlapping volumes", which works exactly like the hack but without any fuss whatsoever.
You could improve the spool joining technique with even more jank: just leave the PTFE tube on the fillament! It’s not going to block anything.
Brilliant! I'm looking at joining 1/3 kg spools together and that could save a lot of faff!
Dude. That's an amazing point. I've been trying to figure out a way to make a removable filament splicer, like with a spiral cut PTFE tube, a hinged clamping mechanism, other stuff.
But this is so much easier.
Oooooh, I like this one because I am a proud owner of The Janky Ender 3 Pro (which still works despite all upgrades I commited to it). So... My list:
1. You heard of "cold pull", now introduce "hot push" to unclog heat creep. At first, heat up hotend to 280C and disable hotend fan so heat can transfer up to cold zone. It softens clogged plastic enough for it to be pushed out. Push in some cheap 1.6mm weed wacker string. When plastic starts extruding, turn on hotend fan and continue pushing weed wacker string until it starts extruding clean. Turn off hotend heater, while still pushing weed wacker string. Push it until it stops melting. Wait for hotend to cool down and do a cold pull. Now hotend should be clean enough for the next clog.
2. Replacing the nozzle is a well documented procedure, but I was getting leaks anyway. Probably hotend wasn't hot enough so I detached hotend assembly from printer, removed heater cartridge and thermistor, gently heated it with propane torch up to "not glowing yet" and tightened it up. No leaks since then.
3. Filament dryer can also dry socks.
4. Jon from ProperPrinting showed in his lamp build video cool technique to increase mass of printed part for cheap. Pause printer before it starts covering infill, pour in sand, resume printing.
5. Mainsail/Fluidd don't know how to "start printing job later". Or I didn't update for too long? Anyway. G4 P3600000 pauses for 1 hour.
Thanks, bye!
#3 lol 😆
Would not recommend 280c on a bowden tube based hotend... 230c will still soak into the heatsink with the fan off just fine and not be a risk.
I cleared a clog a few weeks ago with a power drill... :)
(I think what happened was I didn't fully seat the bowden tube after clearing some cracked filament, so a huge slug of plastic built up in the gap which I could not get out at any temperature...so in a last desperate attempt I took a drill to it. It worked! Lol)
@@Urza9814 for that I use the blowtorch and screwdriver method, heat the tip of a screwdriver that will just about fit, use it to push out the obstruction as best you can, leave it to cool a little and whilst the filament is still stretchy ish, twist and pull to remove the remains
That sharpie thing honestly should become a built-in feature, it's incredible.
lets call it "release agent applicator"
Yeah, that one is amazing, i am now searching for a white sharpie to try it out on white fillament
@@Ucceah this is the way how to sell Sharpie for a fifty times more expensive, and people will thank you with a smile
@@nikolajsromanovs9898 lmao you are not wrong
For the color in supports segment. Gluestick is PVA. Pla sticks to it enough to lay down, but it prevents layer adhesion, so the support will still pop off.
"I discovered there's a spider living on my Rat Rig and I'm going to leave it there... [begins outro]" LOL that was gold
I've often joined leftover filaments with a translucent ptfe tube. After pushing the melted ends together, pull them a little and the weld will thin out again, so you can get closer to a perfect 1.75.
Janky tips:
1. If applying glue stick to the bed is too tedious for your liking, you can just use hairspray.
2. For 3D scanning, you don't need the expensive scanning spray to make a part matte - you can just use dry shampoo. It stinks, but it's dirt cheap and leaves a matte dust.
Don't use hairspray when the plate is on the bed... It'll get into the electronics.
Or use Homer's makeup gun for part 2.
I've never been able to get gluestick of any brand to apply easily. Just water down some PVA glue (Elmer's) and apply with a foam brush. Goes on super easy, evenly and dries pretty fast, especially if you heat the bed.
@greyspot00 Didn't know Elmer's was PVA--I've always used Aleene's Tacky Glue which I know for a *FACT* is PVA. I just dilute with water and brush on! Also can be re-constituted by spraying with water and re-brushing the surface to renew the texture!
Another janky habit I have is to move my printhead to push parts from the bed remotely, so that they fall out and a new print can be started. This works especially well with camera setups like in Bambu printers and octoprint setups
I think this doesn't count, since this is printfarm standard practice.
what about the purge line?
@@mosesbeltran8390my thoughts exactly lol
What about purge lines? Or do you disable them
@@blockfifteen in my experience it’s fine to Stack 2-3 lines on top of each other
I don't worry about joining filament. When one gets closer to running out I just feed the second in right behind the first as the printer is running slowed down. The extruder happily catches it and keeps on feeding as you help it by pushing it in from behind as needed.
lmao, I thought I was the only one using this silly method
I do this, but you do lose retractions until the joint gets to the nozzle. Also you have to be there and hold it until it's past the extruder gear.
Yeah I've done that. I thought that's what he was going to show when he introduced the topic.
My Bambu X1C handles filament runouts pretty well, but I like the idea of just stringing a bunch of short pieces together and spooling them so I don’t have to worry or tend the printer 😁
That's good if your printer cooperates but for me feeding material in is a trial and error endeavour and sometimes the material just comes out from some unexpected place like say the small gap under the lever or through the nearby heatsink. I should probably add some path constraints. There is already one i added below the extruder gear but it seems to be possible to miss somehow regardless.
Then again this IS the jank suggestion list.
Awesome to see my model in your video thank you :)
Torch for stringing is amazing, way better than heat gun, but you dont need a full blown torch LOL
Those little pocket torch lighters from the gas station work perfect for this, and have a small flame you can pinpoint spots with.
Also works great to remove stress marks from ABS.
I use a "pen" soldering torch, which also works great :)
I sue the ones a chef uses for Creme Brûlée
I tried to join two rolls of ABS in a similar way. Turns out the last 3 meters of material on the roll were significantly more brittle, so I had to fix a mid-print failure 3 times within 10 minutes, as the material kept snapping before reaching the weld.
I always print on a bed covered with polypropylene or paper tape. Every material works with only one of them.
I was too lazy to update the firmware, so I added 100 ohm resistor in series with the thermistor to raise the max print temperature.
I use car lightbulbs to heat the printer chamber
Here is my janky one :D When I had issues with ABS lifting in corners, I used a knife to cut a piece of glue stick. Shoved it in, and used a torch to soften the curling part. Than used the spatula that came with the printer to push down the curved part into the glue stick. I did this now on a few occasions and works like a charm if you only have 2-3 layers above the bed and the print started to curl already.
Janky as hell but work :D
Yeah, I've done similar. If something comes detached from the bed, just PVA glue it back down in your best estimate of the right position, and carry on printing.
If this happens later in the print, baking soda and CA glue can save adhesion. Costs the bed surface but no problem if your bed surface is something cheap like blue tape.
Just so you know, Cura has a setting to merge overlapping models too, called Union Overlapping Volumes (within the Mesh Fixes settings)
I used a 'retired' CPAP machine as parts cooler.
The air-flow was constant-pressure, but that was adjustable.
A hose from the CPAP to the hot-end did the trick.
The 'water-test' was fun...at full pressure, the air-blast almost emptied the coffee-cup!
This was cooling for a Tevo Little Monster delta printer....so long ago...
I print out a bunch of 2.75mm PETG rods of different lengths. Then I hot glue them as crossbraces from support to support. It works amazingly well for printing tall skinny things...
An example: Basically if you want to print something like a harry potter wand straight up and down you would add 2 tall rods beside the wand in the slicer, they can be round or square doesnt matter. Use print by object and make the rods hollow with a nice brim so you arent wasting as much material. Now when it is a printing you can pause the print every few inches and hot glue some crossbraces on no problem.
Be careful to apply the glue outside the printer and get rid of any stringing, you dont want your part cooling fan to suck in the wisps and it stays liquid long enough that you dont have to apply it directly inside the printer.
Another great bit of jank i seen was using thoae flat button style magnets to hold down brims and also you can pause the print about a half inch or an inch into it and place magnets inside the supports.
I am printing out a 40hr kroq-Gar statue where the supports all swoop in at extrememe angles from outside to catch things in the middle. These would absolutely break or fail if I didnt employ the magnet and hotglue jank.
Youd be surprised how tall and skinny you can make things while getting literally perfect results even at 0.08mm where the nozzle is constantly rubbing.
The sharpie trick is amazing. I think you should make an independent video about it and testing different settings, patterns and maybe a printable mod that we can attach to the printer so it prints a patter. I think that a patter will be better than coloring it all, because you will gain good adhesion, but also you will be able to remove the support.
Many years ago my shop teacher told us "If you can't fix it with fire then it was never really broken to begin with". He then followed that up with "Everything can be fixed if you replace enough parts". I miss that guy.
Here's one I got- when printing multi-material (EG PLA-PETG or PLA-BVOH/PVA) in prusaslicer the transition towers would sometimes delaminate due to the materials not adhering together, and sometimes this could cause a print failure.
My jank solution?
After slicing a first time, make a box shape and edit its dimensions to contain the tower, setting its material to whichever is the main material. Reduce infill to something like 5-8%, reduce perimeters to 1 or 2.
The jank part is that you're printing over the same place in a single layer, but this encases the transition tower, and the infill of the container object "holds down" the transition tower's layers.
It also might be possible to also just make the container a draft shell around the tower to just contain it if it becomes a spaghetti mess, but I never tried that (arguably easier and less material intensive) option.
I think the slicer can do that automatically. I think there's a setting for changing the perimeter material of the purge tower. I think I saw a video of someone using that setting to accomplish exactly the same thing.
I have just taped it back down using blue painters tap… after a few layers it would work fine again
OrcaSlicer by default makes tower walls only from primary material, if second one have flag of support material
@@generic0000Yes, this. There is a setting in multiple extruders where you can pick the main extruder for the wipe tower and that will always be the other perimeters.
@@bluerider0988 Even with that setting, with BVOH in particular I'd still have issues of delamination, so I chose a sledgehammer solution since it'd always happen on prints that were longer than 10 hours.
Been trying the join technique for awhile. I have never gotten to work correctly. I will definitely try the smaller ptfe tube. For PETG I use windex goes on with no mess. Spread it around a bit with a paper towel the heat of the bed drys it up. Prints pop off with no issues. Just clean with IPA when swapping back to pla.
Some manufacturers sell G10 and G11 with the name Resin Fiberglass Plate or Epoxy Fiberglass Plate.
Also, you can scratch the surface with Low Grid Sandpaper or a wire brush to give it extra grip. It also changes the first layer from glossy to matte finish.
Also also, you can buy PEI sticker sheet and Boom, now you have a dual-faced bed
I bought a sheet of G10 after Angus's video. Paid around $15 US on eBay. The stuff works so well, and it's amazingly cheap
Do you have any tips for magnetic G10 sheets? From my understanding, your suggestion makes a double-sided sheet that need to be held by clips, right? I've trying to come up with a magnetic G10 sheet, but I can't find any options, even for DIY where I live.
@@tuliobrunoro4136 You could try using a magnetic sticker sheet (or magnetic adhesive sheet). That said, I've never tried it myself so I don't really know whether the magnet will be strong enough to hold the bed from moving around.
The magnet is also going to lose its magnetism over time due to constant heating, but I understand why some people like it.
@@tuliobrunoro4136 Try magnetic sticker sheet or magnetic adhesive sheet. That said, I've never used it so I'm not sure whether the magnet is strong enough to hold the bed from moving around. Also, the magnetism will degrade over time due to constant heating, so you might want to test it and see how long the magnetism will last.
@@tuliobrunoro4136 I have a magnetic one. I had two PEI and one flexible magnetic beds already, they all came with magnets (at the time all magnetic beds came with magnets). So I used one of the spare magnets and glued it to g10. I put it under glass with some weight over for a week (because I forgot about it).
Magnet-to-magnet hold is really strong, and it works nicely overall.
You can also use two spools just by pushing the new one in when the old one is running out. I have done this multiple times one my Ender 3 V3 SE without problems.
Just lower the printing speed manually to make it easy and it does not take long. Obviously you need to time it well but it is super nice to use all the fillament leftovers and such, or on big prints if you plan for it.
That sharpie trick I might actually use. Got a project that just doesnt have a good way to support it and look at the same time.
A probably less janky way is to add a holder at the bottom that you place a previously printed support block into at layer pause. You can print the support block from an adhesion incompatible material, or coat it in a release agent or temporary adhesive such as shittiest glue stick you can find. Instead of a holder, maybe an application of glue stick may suffice at the bottom as well?
Actually this is something i have been puzzling about how to support just today so i'm going to try just that. The print will be cylindrical so it will just be able to wear its own temporary support.
My Jankiest - Using Peel and Stick Chalkboard on my Glass Bed. I got 10 prints out of 1 application before I switched to PEI Sheet. Worked Great once dialed in. Went PEI for the Flex and higher temp range
the marker support release worked surprisingly well! the result was awesome
Maybe cutting the PTFE tube along its length would make it easier to take it out after merging the filaments?
Yes, this works
Nice video concept! Informative and very clear, as usual in this channel.
I don't know how janky this is, but I have a trick for speeding up print surface/part cooling after a print. I use a hot pad to remove the spring steel build plate as soon as the print ends, then put that on the biggest piece of metal I can find. I use our big metal sheer at work, but a table saw, band saw, drill press... would work too. I push the print surface down, to stop it from warping as it cools. The metal acts a a big heat sink and you can feel the build plate cooling down rapidly. It's great for impatient people.
I printed a plate holder for my desk fan for this purpose.
I just fan the whole plate around in the air. Outside if the weather's cold.
@@andybrice2711thanks god I’m not the only one
Or put it in a fridge or freezer
@@petervillano3484 while I think you aren’t totally wrong, I think it’s the cooling differential between the two parts, hence why cooling the bottom might be the only effective way.
That was a great segment love the content and the splicing was brilliant.
I’m loving the humor on this one!! Thank you for a good laugh and good tips! 🎉❤
To join 2 loose ends of filament i use a cheap hair straightener where i sandwich the ptfe tube in between to get it warm enouh.
It won’t heat up a very large area as with a heat gun and doen’t get to hot as with a lighter.
great presentation; appreciate the depth on each jank !!
Brilliant tips, thanks for sharing!
My jankiest hack is cutting 5cm thick blocks from printer packaging foam and putting them under the printer. For even better results, do this inside an enclosure or on top of a board and put another four blocks under that. That'll silence the printer right down to almost nothing. The thin 1cm foam covers don't work, because the printer settles into the foam over time. It has to be faily thick.
This is the coolest video idea ever! I didn't know about any of these! Amazing.
Spiders are just about always welcome in my home. They're great for debugging!
I like that idea of joining filament with a PTFE tube as a guide. Since you're using only a small piece, wouldn't it be worth it to split it open with a knife rather than slide it all the way to the end of the filament?
Or just leave it in place as someone else mentioned in the comments.
Oh boy, I've done all of them except one! I've done the bag enclosure, also coupled it with a cardboard box enclosure, also the bank filament join for terrible multicoloured prints, and used a mini blowtorch (the chef ones) regularly for removing wispy bits. I also use the slicer 'boolean' all the time to modify prints, it's been ages since I have reverted to CAD. I made a Mandolorian jetpack/Mr Fusion mashup completely just using the slicer tools. I used the blower side of a vacuum cleaner as a part cooler, I'm yet to try the sharpie method for supports, but it's on my list for sure. Other bank things are using a piece of Kapton tape as a bridge when a support has fallen over, using my finger as a bridge when a support has fallen over, and turning the Z-couplers by hand to adjust the first layer while printing.
Thanks Michael, I love the filament joining method and the wheelie big bags.
I use a mini torch all the time!! It also helps to recover the color after sanding or trimming supports.
Took a couple tries to get the process down, but the smaller PTFE tube splicing worked great! Thank you!
Excellent content as always, thanks!🎉
I loved that you had the true retro bit audio in your intro, when you first started your channel, and love that you haven’t changed it.
3d printing in 2024 is getting pretty awesome.
I dearly hope TH-cam is making it all worth the hard work now.
It’s funny watching you over the last 7 years. You use to come across so robotic and uptight. Like the standard teacher, that taught the same curriculum over and over.
I must say you seem heaps more relaxed and happy in 2024.
Please keep up the amazing work.
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎☮️🍀
I always love it when you and Angus reference your old Solidoodles. I still have my 2 and 4.
I still have the frame and some of the parts floating around.
Here at the bad idea factory, to print ABS on my Prusa Mini in an enclosure heated to 70C. The parts on the printer melted. I now had a Prusa Mini with a bunch of twisted parts. By reheating the parts, I was able to straighten them enough to reprint new parts. Using those, I was able to reprint a second batch of new parts that was actually straight.
Here's one that I used yesterday: I needed to print a small part that goes inside a car, so instead of the usual materials, I chose to use ABS. I had never printed ABS on that printer before and the prints were not sticking great to the PEI buildplate. Instead of trying to wipe down the PEI or mess with the slicer settings in any way, I applied blue painter's tape over the area that the print was going to be on. This resulted in a perfect print. ABS seems to stick pretty well to painter's tape and the tape also reduced the first layer height slightly, squishing it down a bit more.
For TPU which sticks too well to pei, I have one side of my sheet which I rub my oily face on, and touch with my fingers. The has 2 advantages, I can handle my sheet much easier when I can touch one side, so there other side stays perfectly clean, and TPU has perfect adhesion on the greasy side. I just flip the sheet when changing filament types. Been doing this for years.
I was totally expecting a waste of time “life hack” video, more than one of these I didn’t know and will use ! Thanks!
Very unique video idea. Will definitely use the sharpie support trick in the future.
That's much better than my janky way of joining spools. I just watch the print, and as it's about to use the last bit of fillament, I start pushing in the new one, keeping consistent force pushing it in until the extruder gear grabs it. It means retractions are garbage for a bit, but it works surprising well.
I like your new funny format. )
Here’s Jank…. When a print is pulling up I have paused and then used a heat gun (no flames here) and heated the warp. Then I use a short (40cmx40cm) piece of 6cm thick iron bar to press it back into place. The iron cools the plastic quickly and makes it flat. This works very well! I’ve used it multiple times.
love the sharpie trick... will definitely try that one.
😂 the thumbnail is great
Used flame on occasion.
My TH3D flex plate works great unaided with PETG. I just add 0.04 extra clearance to the nozzle. Wait for it to cool as it *really* sticks when heated.
What's nice about Klipper is you can create an M600 macro for universal compatibility. Any M command that isn't already used in Klipper is fair game for a macro.
As a newbie to the game (with very limited funds) this is priceless. Thank you :)
Very appreciated! Gambiarra videos are the best ones! :D
Btw, if you have a high-end PC, you could connect the exhaust fan to your 3d print enclosure and use it and an active heater
or a server nearby (looking at my R720 and getting stupid ideas)
A trick I used to use was using sugar water instead of glue on my print bed. Was incredibly cheap and worked great. Unfathomably messy though.
You can buy a 1L white glue bottle for almost nothing, dilute some of it 1 to 1 in water and apply with a brush. I've been printing for years and I am still on my first bottle.
Great video!
This made my week! Best vid ever 😂
I'm experimenting with inserting acrylic jigs into prints to avoid printing supports. It's worked pretty well for my needs so far; the next step is creating embossed features by using engraved acrylic inserts.
for joining two filaments i use 80 by 80 mm sheet of 0.5 mm aluminium
folded over a 1.6 mm steel rod that i had laying around
now its shaped like a U when you look at it from the side
stick the filaments inside heat it and once it sticks together slowly twist it inside to form an almost perfectly round joint
if it is too thick use a bit of sandpaper to sand it down to size but usually it just works no problem.
takes like two minutes tops
I had no idea about the sharpie marker method on support material. That is amazing and will change my life. 😎
0:01 Damn, not even 5 seconds into the video and this man just summed up my entire life.
i think you are 2 yrs ahead of the community . GR8 video bro
I started using the torch finishing way back with my first printer back in like, 2014 ,and still use it to this day! I think it's probably the one tip I wish more people would use. So easy and fast.
that desktop fan for part cooling really works. My 5015 blower fan broke somehow and i used a desktop fan. worked like a charm
Another trick for ABS is a small heater next to the printer blowing warm air. No bag needed (fire hazard?) Good video! Keep them coming!
Jank tricks show the difference between a pro and a newbie running 3d printers. Bravo!
I am always cleaning my strings with fire as I am printing on high speeds and high temperature. And my work doesn't demand high aesthetics. The part with the garbage bags was hilarious)) Thanks for the video!
What a great video!
The fact that Janky is used on 2 hemispheres is dope!
Here's one: If you don't want to wait for the bed to cool, take it off and spray isopropyl alcohol on the back. The evaporation cools it pretty fast.
This was fantastic! Ep. 2 soon? 😅
@Teaching Tech, As for combining filaments, I use silicon tubing (1/8"O.D. x1/16" I.D.), using a soldering iron to heat, and slice it off afterwards. It works better than any other method I have ever tried.
Hahaha I love the enclosure. I used to run ABS in a trash bag. People told me my printer was going to burn the house down when I did that. I told them I should be so lucky.... but I wasn't! It's still here and still not worth what I paid.
I name all my spiders George. They are my friends. Though, sometimes they move out unexpectedly and I'm left feeling lonely and betrayed.
I name all mine Bob. :)
I did not realise. I will tell George, George and George that you miss them and they should write.
Mine are Matilda
Who needs CAD?
I just finished printing a project where I had 30-40 changes made to a single model, all done within the slicer. It worked astonishingly well.
Tip for matching the filament together: put the filament ends next to each other and overlap them a bit. Use a razor blade to cut both at an angle at the same time. The angles will be the same since they were cut on the same plane.
Great video, I'd love to see more like that in the future. Nice break from the usual serious and well-researched videos :D Also, if it's stupid but it works, is it still stupid? ;)
I used pause feature and some preprinted inserts when I was printing corner connecting aluminium T-sections, it wouldn't be possible other way as support would be unremovable. I added tiny amount of oil on both sides for easier release and a bit of stickiness so nozzle wouldn't move insert while printing first layer. Result was perfect
Well done. Used the flame for stringing. Janky might include using old MS 3dbuilder to join parts.
Slice the PTFE tube off unless you want to save it but you can actually use it again by wrapping it around and next time it will be easier to remove
Very Cool..!!! Thank You for sharing .. Cheers :)
Amazing stuff.
+1 on the G10 bed surface. Also, I use an "EZ reach Bic pocket lighter" for minor stringing.
Maybe janky (new word to me), but some of these solutions to recurring issues are quite relevant. It reminds me of my old boss who's favourite saying was, "It's not about what you can do. It's about what you can get away with." I keep my filament bone dry at all times (West Coast BC) and haven't bought a filament dryer, so I bought X-Large ziplock bags and bag the filament right on the spool holder. Keep my desiccant container in the bag and it maintains low humidity very well.
Same! The bag also keeps the filament on the spool - new spools tend to let a curl escape over the side where it binds up on the spool holder.
True. I redesigned my spool holder with 8mm bearings and it worked so well/poorly that the spool would continue unrolling at the slightest tension. The bag adds a bit of drag and keeps the filament wound.
Janky comes from jank which comes from junk, but with a funny pronounciation, I think
Really liked the last 1
Guilty of the SolidSnake option (the humble cardboard box!) vice a plastic bag to help keep the printer warm! Thank you for all the jank (especially the ptfe tip! ordering some ASAP).
That room fan trick is pretty much mandatory when printing during the summer in AZ when my garage ambient temp gets to 50c/122f.
For my Ender 3's I cut a 235x235 square piece of that black foam it comes packed in and glued it to the bottom of the heated build plates to insulate them. They heat up faster, cool slower, conserving energy. And the build plate also heats more evenly.
Congrats for leaving the spider at it's place! 😊
For the print bed, I just use scrap glass that I find in the dump. It gives me practice cutting the glass with a glass cutter. Wear gloves! Eye protection wouldn't hurt either. Then I round the edges with a sander. The glass print bed stays flat, does not warp, and leaves a beautiful, glassy finish on parts. But you'll have to have a release agent like glue stick or windex for PETG, or removing it will pull chunks right out of the glass. And even if it's cracked and not square, th' printer don't care, as long as it's janky enough!
PCB laminate comes in various materials and thicknesses. There’s boards in 1.6, 1, and, 0.8mm thicknesses you could try out with some very thin bits with no copper on them used when boards of more than two layers are made.