Complete Marlin Leveling Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ค. 2024
- Some of the most common questions I see about 3D printing are centered around how to properly level the bed. In this video, I present my complete Marlin bed leveling guide.
Thank you to Nikko Industries for sponsoring this video!
#3DPrinting #MarlinFirmware #BedLeveling
Table of Contents:
00:00 - Introduction
00:56 - Getting Started
02:58 - Level Bed Mounting to the Gantry
05:32 - Set Up The Bed Springs
06:40 - Preheat Before Leveling
08:28 - Setting The Probe Offset
13:10 - Four Corner Bed Leveling
15:57 - ABL (Auto Bed Leveling)
18:06 - Test Print Filament - Polymaker PolyTerra
19:42 - First Test Print - Baby Stepping
25:05 - Testing the Results - Heimdall's Sword
30:31 - Wrap-Up
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Your Video Safes my Little KP3S, i almost want to throw him away. Best regards from Germany
I just had to stop by and say thank you so much for this video! This honestly has been the best video I've found for getting my bed leveling with UBL working well. I just started my first true baseline print after being down for 3 weeks with 1 whole week being nothing but bed leveling issues. Your tip to do an odd number of points on the X and Y Axes was wonderful. I was trying a 10x10 with 100 points and couldn't get the bed right, tried a 9x9 and now the bed is level!
Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad you're all setup.
I have done your upgrades with the SKR 1.4 Turbo and G34 z bed level which is absolutely amazing, cant thank you enough for that since it makes things SO easy and automated and skipped a lot of things that I hate doing, also got help by you on Facebook, so yep, when I get up to 100% at my work from 75% due to a disability and sickness, I will also be a patreon member :)
Thank you so much for the feedback! I'm glad these are helping you out. I look forward to seeing you on Patreon when that works for you. Take care!
I've been trying to get my bed leveled for almost a month! Finally got it and didn't even need to use "baby stepping". Your the best!!!
Thank you! Glad I could help!
Thank you very much for this excellent video! I have been having problems leveling the bed on my Ender 3 V2. I think this video has everything I need to do the job!
Great to hear! I hope you get it all sorted!
Oh my god. My bed is *&$@ing level!!! No more first layers printing in mid air in the far corner, the purge line not too squished in one side, etc. This is GREAT. Thank you!!!!!
No problem! Glad I could help!
Amazing tutorial as usual. At about 27 minutes I caught myself headbanging to music...I loves me some metal 🤘🤘 lol....and also I highly recommend 3D Gloop for any gluing and coating cuz that stuff is ridiculously strong and looks great as a clear coat
Rock on! Thanks! I love the Gloop also! I needed something that would set faster here. 😉
Thank you for the videos :)
Just got my Ender 5 Plus. Can’t wait 😝
Hope you enjoy it!
hey Kris, many thanks for this!!!
Sure thing!
Thanks!
Glad I could help!
@Kersey Fabrications
As always Sir, very nicely done and very well communicated. Thank you!
My pleasure!
Bro’ ! MASSIVE THANKS
No problem 👍
Potential confusion point at 13:49. You turned the knob the correct way to reduce the clearance between the nozzle and the bed; however, you actually turned the knob to the left, (not the right as you say in the video), assuming you're looking at it from the correct orientation which is from below. That movement you performed makes the screw looser, releasing the spring tension, and raising the bed which moves the bed closer to the nozzle. That's what you intended to do, but what you did was "lefty-loosy". Mechanics and others have been using this convention ever since the screw was invented and you are treading on thin ice if you try to reverse that long history. Looking at the print corner knobs from the top and pretending "righty-tighty" has to do with the nozzle clearance is bound to confuse anyone who worked on his/her car before purchasing a 3D printer. Nearly all screws are "right hand" and turning them to the right makes them tighter and on a normal 3D printer that pulls the bed down.
Good T-Shuts!
Is this possible with stock motherboard, and using a computer plugged into the serial port as a sort of substitute for purchasing a new screen?
I use a Devilbiss DEV-803654 Shim-mask which is also 0.04mm thick. Much easier than a feeler gauge as it's much larger. If it's comfortable for you just ask a body shop for an old one - they'll probably just gift to you.
Why do you set the z probe offset first and then do the corner levelling? Isnt it the other way?
My bed is warped, just installed bl touch but still cant get my printer to work reliably. Something to do with the z offset, I feel the levelling is off even with ABL. Really useful video. Thanks for the content.
Love your videos. I did put a BTT SKR Mini E3 and a TFT35 E3 into my ender 5 plus. I used you .bin file for Marlin 2.06. Any chance you can put out your bin file for 2.09 as shown jn this video? I do not have the z probe offset wizard ;) thanks
Scott in Harwood, MD
Thanks! I've released almost all of my firmware. Check out the latest on my TH-cam Community page (th-cam.com/users/KerseyFabricationscommunity) or on my Facebook page (facebook.com/kerseyfabs/posts/2540062839472245).
Thanks for this video , it helps a lot.
BTW, could you tell me what cooling fan model you are using on this ENDER5PLUS?
In this video I'm using a Biqu H2 extruder. I'll have a video coming out on it very soon. I covering a couple of cooling options.
Hi! GreatVideo BigHelp
I', m having an issue with "Err: Too far" maybe you could point me in the right direction why?
I recently upgraded my ender 5 plus with the BTTSKR1.4 turbo board/ tft35
Had that all set up and printing. After watching your video I wanted to upgrade marlin.
I put all your changes in a fresh 2.0.9.3MarlinBug Fix. I think?
I may have missed something.
When I first followed your video I was able to have a z offset of -2.27 which I was happy with.
Actually printed some parts successfully....
After fixing a few items I missed setting up the new firmware and trying to get back there,,,, I'm getting Err Too far!
I'll keep trying, hoping you may have a hint why.....
Matt H.
What hot-end fan mount system are you using. Is it better than hero me gen 5?
Also, where did you get the flat clips for the glass bed?
On this printer, I've been testing the Biqu H2 extruder, so this isn't my standard hotend. On my standard machine, I'm still using my Gen 3 Hero Me. It just works. I'd love to do a new comparison video when I have some time.
BTW, are you using the Silent Ender 5 Plus MB? Or another MB with that display? I didn't see it in the description.
This is using a Bigtreetech SKR E3 Turbo. There's enough interest, so I may be doing a stock MB upgrade video.
Could you share how you got the display to work correctly using the Marlin 2 on the Ender 5 Plus? I was only able to make it work using the TH3D firmare.
What board/display combination are you attempting to get working?
Hey need some assistance. I have an ender 5 plus with a btt mini e3v3. No matter what I set the z offset at, it still crashes into the hot end. What could be the issue? I flashed your firmware on my board. KF 2.1.1
Yeah, the v3 had notoriously bad problems with the BLtouch. I have updated firmware that may help on my TH-cam community page and Facebook pages.
@@kerseyfabs thanks for the reply. I actually figured it out. The black/white pins for my Z end stop were backwards. Guess it’s different from the stock board
@@5t341tH awesome! Glad you figured it out.
When you clean your glass bed, do you remove it or not? I was told to use glass cleaner. If you do remove the glass bed to clean it, do you have to re-level the bed again? Also, should I have the bed and nozzle heated when using G34 to make sure both Z axis' are the same?
Thanks as always! Loved this video. Would one day love to have my screen setup like yours. I like the touch screen but like on my Prusa Mini+ I prefer the knob.
I usually remove it and clean it in the kitchen sink. When I bring it back, I would relevel with G29 (ABL) but 4-point bed leveling is probably not needed. Test prints are your friend when in doubt.
Silly question Kris, since you upgraded your PSU to a bigger unit: how do you get Marlin to behave like the stock firmware, which would heat the bed / hotend separately, since the stock PSU cannot handle the power draw to heat both? I'm trying to run custom Marlin (tried your firmware too), tried Cheetah 5.0, and they all behave the same: preheat PLA setting tries to heat both bed and HE, which causes instant shutdown due to drawing too much current. I'm trying to figure out how to make Marlin behave like stock, where it heats bed first, then HE afterwards, but with no luck. I'm rather surprised that the stock Marlin config files don't account for this. Unless I missed something, which is very possible!!
First of all, I have always been able to heat up both the nozzle and the bed on all of my printers at the same time. It can burn out the stock supply on the Ender 5 Plus but, so far, one of mine is still going strong.
What you're describing though isn't a feature of the firmware. That's actually in your start gcode. It's the difference between using M190 versus M140 on your bed heating and M109 versus M104 on your nozzle heating. M140 and M104 both say heat up the bed or nozzle and keep going through the gcode right away. M190 and M109 say heat up and wait for them to reach temperature.
For example:
M190 S60
M109 S200
This says heat the bed to 60C and wait for it to reach that temp. Then it says heat the hotend to 200C and wait for it to reach that temp. If you replaced the first line with 'M140 S60' it would heat both at the same time, only waiting on the hotend temp.
Now if you're not doing this expressly in your start gcode, your slicer may have a setting for it and you should look for that specifically in the slicer.
@@kerseyfabs thanks Kris, that's what I'm told on Reddit too. I also know at some point Creality started shipping with beefier units, which confuses things more. It sounds like I have a problem somewhere. Even if I can work around it with gcode, I'm not sure I should entertain that. I wonder if I somehow ruined the TH3d 450W Meanwell unit when I put the SKR 1.4 turbo board in. Maybe I should have just followed your example and got a 600W unit from the start. Oh well, back to the drawing board, thanks for reply!
great vid man, the only thing that didnt work is the last bit with baby stepping i adjusted it to get it smooth but it loses the ofset very next print, even tried storing settings via lcd , it saves the new offset but very next try i have to lower it more again, any ideas appreciated
If I remember correctly you have to enable in the firmware that it saves the babystepping adjustment, otherwise it get's lost every time.
Can I use a 12864 display with the stock board of the Ender 5 Plus or will I need a BTT board and screen?
If I remember correctly, yes you can. You'll need custom firmware though.
which hotend mount and part cooling is this. Please post the links
This is the BIQU H2 extruder. You can check out my review here: th-cam.com/video/UkFREx1pn8Y/w-d-xo.html
What board are you using on this ender 5 plus? I'm just curious because I would like to get away from the creality board and move to marlin 2.x.
I'm currently using the Bigtreetech SKR 2.0. Check my Community page for connection guide and firmware.
@@kerseyfabs Is that the E3 mini?
@@michaelpauli734 No. That's a different board. Here's a link: amzn.to/33hhq5A
Informative as always! Man, I'm almost lost for words. I would love to join your Patreon, but I'm already paying for youtube premium and my wife would kill me if she saw another subscription lol maybe I'll cancel youtube premium and join your patreon instead haha. Thank again for another great video. Cheers!
UPDATED. just saw your PayPal donation link
Thank you so much Barrington! I appreciate the interest in contributing but do what you can man. I'm just glad these videos are useful!
What screen are you using and board
This is an Bigtreetech SKR 2 and TFT35.
Hi, followed your video very closely. Everything Ok up to the first layer test print. Downloaded your test file from below the video. When I hit print, it auto homes but then pushes the nozzle into the bed and lists the entire assembly up begore I can cancel. Not sure what is going on. this is the first time I have ever done this and don't want to damage enything. Any help is appreciated.
Thansk
Go into your settings and manually adjust your Z offset to a higher number. Try again.
Where are the links to Marlin Firmware version you are running? For that matter, where can we find the most up-to-date version you are running?
If you're on Facebook, it's pinned to the top of my page. Other than that, I need to finish my website. I do try to keep my video descriptions up to date too. 2.0.9.3 is my latest with 2.1.x coming soon.
I've just installed a E3 Turbo, etc and done the bed leveling (about a dozen times at this point) as well as adjusted babystepping on initial printing. Can't get good first layer adhesion on a multi piece print to save my life.
Which side of the bed are you printing on?
@@kerseyfabs Glass side...I've cleaned with dish soap as well as IPA
Yeah, IPA on glass never worked for me. Dish soap almost always does. If all else fails, use glue stick. FYI, my go-to for glass now is Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive. I use it all the time now.
If you want to try the coated side, IPA will work so well on that you may not be able to get your print off. 😮
So am I supposed to turn auto bed levelling on? Because you never mention it after using the measure tool. Not that I heard anyway.
Only turn that on if you want it to level the bed on every print. That's not necessary. In your slicer, just be sure to have the following in your start gcode to enable the mesh you have saved.
M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height
I just got a new ender 5 plus and installed the direct drive as well as the silent creative board. I'm looking to update the firmware to the Marlin, what do I need? Some of the things I found did not clearly outline the process or where to get the frimware. I'm new to this I don't want to brick my ender 5.
He has another video where he installs the firmware update
@@andrew6608 I was looking for where to get the firmware as I stated.
@@slickman1953 the video literally shows where to get the firmware he has links to it lol
Sigh, sure I'll look at ALL the posts he has to find it. Many talk about a upgrade. forget it
Here you go: th-cam.com/video/9pDoxf13_wg/w-d-xo.html
That should help.
17:36 Is "Store Settings" writing to the EEPROM at this point?
Yep!
@@kerseyfabs Thank you .... and loading default settings will or will not overwrite what's in the EEPROM from the FW defaults?
@@pattygq Loading defaults overwrites your current settings with the FW defaults, what was compiled in.
@@kerseyfabs and with a fresh flash the only thing that would needed to be reset is the EEPROM? It would be redundant to load defaults at that point?
Is the Z PROBE WIZARD in Marlin 2.1.2? I've been scanning through the code but can't find it.
It is, I just compiled 2.1.2 for my E5P with SKR Mini E3 V3 and i was able to follow along with everything except for the 4 point part, he called it something else in the video and I found it was under "Bed Tramming".
That's correct. It's been renamed.
I cant seem to set Probing Margins without the firmware being unable to compile, without probing margins edited it compiles fine though..
If you set the various margins to the same value as the default (which should be 10), does it compile? If not, what's the error?
Not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I don't have the bed leveling corners section. Actually no bed leveling section at all. It says bed leveling UBL. I've been writing the firmware for my ender 5 plus on a SKR 2 board. No idea what I'm doing, but I'm learning it fast. I've managed to get it to print finally today. But only from the Marlin Emulator mode. As the Touch Screen mode says the filament runout sensor is not working or some such error. I believe it is because the sensor is attached to the board and not the tft. However when I attach it to the TFT it won't print from Marlin mode lol. Either way that sucks. Needs to be fixed. Anyone have a work around? Thanks for the advice :) And keep up the great videos!! You don't know how much it has helped me out!!
Cain, sorry to hear about your problems. Here's a quick reply:
- You're welcome to try out UBL but I prefer BILINEAR bed leveling. I find it to be less complicated and just as good functionality: #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
- Corner leveling:
#define LCD_BED_LEVELING
#define LEVEL_BED_CORNERS
- You're right about filament runout. You have to choose which one you want. If you choose TFT, disable the one in Marlin.
- I'll be working on an SKR2 this week for my firmware (I hope). It will go to Patreons first for testing and then to everyone else a couple week later.
Sorry, but at 13:50 you're loosening the screw. (counter-clockwise) Lefty loosey. (look at the screw from underneath) Loosening the screw compresses the spring less, allowing the bed to raise, thereby closing / tightening the gap. You end up loosening the screws to tighten the gap, which is a bit counter intuitive, but once you realize that 'tighten' means 'pull away from nozzle', and loosen means 'allow spring to pull bed more towards nozzle', it makes more sense.
You completely missed one of the greatest features of Marlin. You need to enable probe assisted corner levelling (uncomment LEVEL_CORNERS_USE_PROBE. Set probe tolerance to 0.1). Instead of going from corner to corner with a piece of paper depending on how it feels, it will wait for you to turn your adjustment knob until it triggers your BLTouch which is much more precise. I also recommend cutting probing speed in half. Marlin moves the Z axis toward 0 while it's polling for the probe to trigger. The faster the Z axis is moving, the more opportunity there is for the Z to move until the probe is triggered. Run the BLTouch repeatability test before and after slowing the probing speed and you'll see what I mean.
Thanks for all the tips! I'm going to take a look!
@@kerseyfabs please do, I've been trying to enable this without any luck. :-) Once I try to enable it, it tells me the probe spots can't be reached, or something to that effect, and fails to compile: "static assertion failed: LEVEL_CORNERS_INSET_LFRB right inset is not reachable with the default NOZZLE_TO_PROBE offset".
@@kerseyfabs Have you time to try it ?
Thank you thank you thank you…..one of the few videos when there is not a stupid bit of paper in sight. But….why don’t you tell people to lower by the thickness of the gauge after you have used it. For the probe z offset lower it by the thickness of the gauge when you have set it. For the levelling add the thickness of the gauge to the z offset then reset the z offset to 0 when done. So many people don’t want to tell the machine where the bed surface is when that is what you are actually suppose to do they want to add the thickness of a feeler gauge or worse still the random thickness of some piece of paper. I suppose it’s arguable if you are going to do the final adjustment by eye with a test print but why not start from the most accurate setup you can do.
You really like your own voice. But good info.
Rudy, you come to my channel, watch my content, and then tell me I talk to much. You're being rude and I don't appreciate it.
This was not constructive. This video took a long time to put together and is even called "COMPLETE Marlin Leveling Guide." If you wanted the "60 seconds to leveling your bed," you should have gone somewhere else.
Incorrectly setup bl touch wow what a great job next time input report back mm using the probe
A COMPLETE Marlin Leveling guide should contain how Marlin firmware should be set. This is more a guide of how to use Marlin menu to level your bed.
Nope. That would be a Marlin Configuration Guide. That's a separate thing for people that need to compile their own firmware.
@@kerseyfabs "COMPLETE" shouldn't be used for your video title. It's misleading.
Why is this video called “complete marlin leveling guide”, when it’s got nothing to do with configuring marlin?
It has everything to do with using the Marlin interface to correctly "level" your bed. It's different if you're using other UIs.
Please in your next video. Get to the point.
Please, next time you're looking for a tutorial, find someone more your speed. Quick, to the point, with less information.
Seriously, I'm always positive, even when responding to trolls. This is the first time that I feel like someone took from me and then complained about the quality of what they got for free.
righty tighty lefy loosey at 13:55 , you are LOOSENING it, to the LEFT to make the gap smaller. say what you do and do what you say correctly!
Found //#define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD not sure why is it off by default... Will test it as soon as my cat leaves my lap... But if you put together one of your awesome firmware and it works with my board (BTTSKR3EZ), I would love to use it.
Give this a shot! It's for 2209s and dual Z support. drive.google.com/file/d/1TZeolwFIJT-KHZxettdKQg9Y5qimth26/view?usp=sharing
@@kerseyfabs thanks!!! Will definitely give it a shot today!!
If it doesn't work for you, let me know.
@@kerseyfabs You would happen to be able to share the config, config_adv, and pio files would you? Trying to do a compare. Will install your bin tonight.
@@kerseyfabs Doing my test print. Would love to get access to teh config files so I can tweak to my liking. Your mesh process runs MUCH faster than what I had before which is AWESOME! Some of my confusion have to do with the menus, for instance I did not know what Tramming was. So far the firmware works GREAT!