How to Build a Shed - How To Install Trusses - Video 6 of 15
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ต.ค. 2013
- Our 8x10 and 10x12 shed plans for the shed built in these videos can be found here: countrylifeprojects.com/shedp...
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In this video Henry teaches you how to install trusses on a framed wall. Everything you need to know is included in our detailed instructions - some of the main parts covered in this truss installation tutorial are:
- How to start the truss install
- How to use temporary blocking to make the truss installation safe
- How to line up your trusses for a perfectly straight ridge line
Part of the video showing how to secure the trusses to the walls was destroyed. Use 2 screws or nails diagonally on each end of the truss into the the top wall plate. We also recommend using hurricane ties on each end of the trusses (excluding the 2 gable end trusses) for extra hold down strength for high winds.
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#shed #gardenshed #diy #framing #carpentrytips #carpentry #woodworking #sheds #trusses
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A shed built better than many houses. Well done!
i have watched a few of your videos and i would like to say they are really good, well spoken and structured.
This is a superb presentation. A real gentleman as well.
I poured over a dozen "how to" videos that where nothing more than time lapses with crappy music and no explanation of anything! So thank you very much for actually explaining what you where doing and providing diagrams.
Loving these videos the most. I do a lot of projects myself, and it helps to see your one man show.
Nice trick with the jig for hanging fascia!!
My husband and I are building me a she-shed. Well, I mostly just supervise - LOL. Your videos are so understandable and I love your jigs.
Nice videos, very helpful, and things to consider. I used hurricane straps because my trusses are 13.5' and 7' tall and I like the extra fastening strength.
True craftsman !
excellent job, easy to follow
I love watching ur work done master 👏
The video work is excellent. It shows what is being done clearly in a flowing way. The explanations are brief and accurate without a lot of side comments that are distracting. This is the 4th video of yours I watched and all are the same in quality. Thanks.
Well, we watched a lot of videos before doing our own... and felt that introducing our pooch, the kids and talking about other things just would not cut it (and yes, we did lots of re-shooting when the neighbors dogs barked, planes flew over etc)... we wanted to make clear and concise videos that viewers could watch and then use the info to do nice work themselves - so far, going by all the comments it looks like we are on track - Thanks!
This was is excellent. I built 5 sheds since my 1st one in 2014-which I followed the instructions item line by item line. Over the next 5 afterwards I made some adjustments mainly because I live in a snowy climate where rotting wood is as common as rusted metal. The last one built was in August of 2021. All screws are Teflon coated, the bottom stud on the trusses I increased from 1/4" to 1-3/8" beyond the floor frame to accommodate using T-111, thus allowing it to slip in behind the truss closing any air space. I cut in look-out's to attach the front and rear trusses 24" beyond the length of the shed floor. After the trusses were installed, I secured the facia boards and completed the soffit before installing the plywood roof sheathing. It gave me room to caulk any gaps, fill any cracks etc. insuring me no bugs, birds, bats, or other unwanted guests. This shed is 12x16 ( 192 sq.ft ) with an overall roof span of 20x13 ( 260 sq.ft ). I also used full 2x4x8 studs not precuts. I nailed the siding 5-1/2" above the bottom plate, attached an aluminum drip edge slipping it behind the bottom of the siding, then ran galvanized roof flashing to fill the void, an nailed 2x6 pressure treated to cover the plate. To give it a finished look, I cut a 6" strip of T-111 and nailed it horizontally over the 2 x 6 and flush behind the drip edge. The 30 60 90 degree design allows the builder to construct the trusses off site or over the winter for instance, and gather materials over time making it sensible, fun to follow, and exciting to finish and trim.
Hi Tim... That sounds very impressive and glad to hear the it is working so well. Best regards and keep them shed builds a going!
It is so helpful videos. Thank you so much!
Excellent video and very informative .Thanks.
Excellent video good good information.
I’m part way into a shed and am so sad I didn’t watch these first. Lol. Excellent series of videos.
great video, thanks!
Great video!!! Absolutely amazing job! By the way after 14:00 something, the video gets mute. It's easy to figure out what is going on thou. Thanks for sharing, you're great tutor mate!
Very useful and informative .. thank you
thank you!
Most helpful 👍
you are a really good carpenter... great video.. and smart way to work
Doesn't get more solid than this. Love the roof and truss design.
Awesome video I think I am ready to build a Storage Garage now!! LOL!
I was asked how the trusses are attached to the walls... 3" screws on an angle on each side of the truss, and then hurricane anchors on all inner trusses. The Gable trusses have a full length 2x4" backer attached to the top of the wall on the inside, and then they are secured through the bottom chord into this backing from the outside of the shed.
Thank you so much for this video,you did a very good job and explain it very pacience and clearly,clean job ,Nice😀💯💯💯💯💯💯💯🙏😃💕
Hey enjoying watching your video series on the shed building, I’m fixing to start me a new building that’s 16’ wide and 24’long with a 9’ roll up door I was wonder if I could do the trusses in the same manner with 2x4 or do they need to be 2x6 since the building will be 16’ wide.
Thanks
Tim
Hi Tim, At 16' wide I would look at getting engineered prefab trusses made for the climate in your area. You might find them much more affordable than expected. I am personally comfortable using this style of truss up to 12' but that is about it. And at 12' I would build them a little different.
Good videos. Thanks for posting. How did you cut and attach the gables ends? I don't think I saw it on any of the videos. If i missed it let me know, please.
eloy serna Hi Eloy... if you are referring to the LP Smart Panels. please check Video 8 on our channel - countrylifeprojects.com/how-to-build-a-dream-shed/video-8-how-to-install-lp-smart-side-panels-on-the-shed/
Excellent series! What type of connection did you use for the truss to top-plate? I see later in the video that you used hurricane ties, but did you do anything else for initial installation?
Sorry, that video was damaged and we were not able to post it. Trusses were toe nailed to the top plate from both sides. Hurricane ties are recommended were one might expect strong winds.
Nice videos. When did you hear the second top plate to your walls? After the walls were up?? Thanks Daniel
Yes, they go on after the walls are up. Top plates should overlap on the corner to bind the two walls together.
Hi, thank you for making this set of videos! Very helpful, my question is why didn’t you show how you attached the trusses to the wall?
Murphy's Law - we did shoot video for this but it got corrupted, and there was no way to shoot it over. We were bummed out about it but there is little that can be done.
Great build and easy to follow video! What type of screws did you use to secure everything? Also, for the toenailing part into top plate was that also screws? Thanks!
Glad you like the videos... For most of the construction, bright construction screws with a coarse thread (here we use square head Robertson). Anything going into pressure treated lumber should be coated and labelled as for use in PT lumber. For toe-nailing trusses to top plate 3 1/4' 16D nails (or equal) is recommended (both sides of each truss and on both ends). If using nails for framing, anything going into PT lumber should be galvanized. General rule for framing with 2x lumber is 16D 3 1/4" common nails.
Does it matter if you put the sheets of plywood up before the trusses? This weekend I thought that I would cut the trusses after I walled my frame. (It rains a lot here.) I'm looking for an efficient order. Thank you.
+SpaceCaddy0307 Yes it does (I assume you are talking about the LP Smart Panels). If you watch the videos in series you will see that the trusses have to be laid out using the floor, and assembled prior to framing the walls. In regards to doing the walls first, much depends on how you plan to finish the soffits - check out our video on this part. All the videos explain the order I chose to do things and the reasons why. It is not written in stone and how you change things up depends a lot on how closely you are building to match our shed design and materials used.
So confused. I've watched your series and it's helped a lot. but I also watched some others. they use rafters with a ridge board. What's the difference?
A ridge board is used when trusses are not used and you build the roof framing in place (piece by piece so to speak).
Sorry one other thing ,when doing fascia along the truss when there plumb for gutters to be installed , do you drop the fascia 2X6 down on the truss 2X4 a inch so that the roof sheathing can be placed over them ?
Jerry Peckford Hi Jerry... There are various ways to do this, but yes, typically you want the plywood to sit tight on the outside edge of the 2x6 (or whatever size material). If not gutters are being installed, you would want to do this differently so the plywood edge is not visible but the details for this are beyond the scope of comments here (there is various ways to do this too).
Thanks Henry
I didnt see how you attached the trusses to the top rail? Other videos I've watched show it nailed in at an angle and then hurricane ties. Also, if I wanted a less of a pitch would I just need to know the correct angles or are these angles specific for weight of the roofing material? Great videos and amazing detail!!
Hi Robert... It was a bummer, but that footage was corrupted and we could not use it. But yes, trusses would get toe nailed into the top plate and then add the hurricane ties. As far as the roof angle.. we choose 30 degrees as it was a standard setting on miter saws and easy to calculate for DIY'ers and all the other cuts that come after the trusses are made. You can use any pitch/angle you like, but for these shed builds we found 30 degrees ideal.
Thanks!! Love the videos!!
How did you secure the middle trusses to the walls did you screw them in from the side into the top plate?
Hi Steven... Ya, sorry about that, that part of the footage was corrupted and could not be included. We toe nailed from either side of trusses into top plate - for a total of 4 nails per truss.
Hi Henry ,
Do you know the maximum overhang for dropped gable truss's 2X4 ends to fascia ?
load level is zone 6 Ontario Canada , I was thinking about doubling the 2x4's for the lookout supports for the sheathing and snow and wind reinforcement ..
Jerry Peckford I am not sure what it is for your area, you would have to check locally. Personally I would not go more than 16" using the ladder design.
Thanks Henry
Have another question if you don't mind sir. Could you tell me, besides using the hurricane straps, where you place your 3 3inch screws when securing the trusses to the top plate? Thank you in advance. So far so good building my shed with your instructions. I owe you big time
Hi Random Guy... that is one part of our video that was ruined :-( the trusses should be toe-nailed to the top plate with nails for their shear strength. One nail on each side for a total of 4 nails per truss.
@@Countrylifeprojects great ! Thank you sir, you're the best. This is a great thing you're doing here for a lot of us would be diy folks. Take care
I did catch how you attach the middle trusses to the walls.
Footage got damaged so could not show it. Toe-nailed on either side of the bottom chord of truss on both ends to top plate of wall.
What are you using for a brace on the inside of the trusses? Looks like a 1 x 4
Yes... it is 1x4's
Is there any reason the sub fascia has to be one continuous piece as it does get covered . I'd like to use up pieces of 2x4 I have left over since I took down a previous shed.
Well... I like to keep it as continuous as possible. Less joints, stronger shed. But it is not a structural requirement so you could use shorter pieces. That said, do use pieces long enough to span at least 2 rafter ends on the gable ends of the shed - to help provided maximum support for the ladders (gable overhangs).
Im making a 4x4 chicken coop.I need instructions on how to make these trusses for the roof..This will be my first roof..
+fuzzbutt2871 If you are using the same design of roof and ptich you can build the trusses the same way, just on a smaller scale.
Everything was going great, learning a lot, very helpful, until this video and you don't show how you secure the trusses to the tops of the walls. Did you sink screws at an angle down into the gusset and trusses, or did you only use hurricane ties?
we lost that part of the video (corrupted file). You are correct, screws or nails on an angle.There is shear (uplift) potential here so nails are better. On trusses I always use hurricane anchors. For the small amount of cost to use them, IMO they are a must on every project.
He's got stock in the lumber company...
So is a ridge board not safe or too difficult to do by one person? Is that why most people create these truss brackets?
Trusses are used a lot because they are fast to install, fairly inexpensive and if ordering from a truss company - engineered for snow loads, wind resistance etc for the location you want to use them.
Are the gussets proportionate to the roof width or can the same size gussets be used on a 14' wide shed? I was originally thinking of going with the rafter style roof but your videos are making consider these instead. Would the same overhang ladder system work on the ridge and rafter style roof?
I personally would not use plywood gussets for trusses over 12' in width. At 14' you might be best to purchase engineered trusses built for the climate of your area - you may find the prices much lower than expected and worth it. For 12' trusses I would use gussets on both sides of inner trusses and use 1/2" plywood instead of 3/8" - same would apply to 10' trusses but only if very heavy snow loads are expected. Lastly, at 14' wide it is likely that you would need a permit and homemade trusses may not fly with the local building department - you'd have to check (total square footage etc).
Thank you, I checked and no permit is needed for anything under 200 squared feet which in my yard allows me a 14x14 and weather wise we don't get extreme snow rain or wind mostly lots of heat. Thank you for your quick and informative response oh and the great videos I'll definitely look into the engineered ones.
I am working on a new series of shed plans (more conventional designs and construction) that will include 12' wide models (but not 14' - sorry) and videos on how to build them - hopefully have these up by early summer... late start this year as winter just won't let go here.
That's awesome I'll be looking forward to that. I'm planning on taking the next week off from work to get my shed built hope I can get a good chunk of it done in that time frame.
Here's the video I was looking at about building the rafters, simplified it some.
th-cam.com/video/fBxcx6YKz54/w-d-xo.html
You built the whole shed using a drill/driver and not a pneumatic nailer or a hammer and nails. Is one better than the other?
For small sheds either is fine... however for larger structures like a garage or house, nails have more shear strength (and may be required by code). I used screws mainly for those watching as most will not have an air nailer setup (or buy a box of nails for small shed). But, almost every DIY'er these days has an impact driver or cordless drill (or both) and that makes it easy to follow our shed build.
How did he secure the rafters to the walls?
Hi El... that part of the footage was damaged - sorry. We toe nailed the trusses to the top plate with nails, 2 at each end plus we used hurricane ties for added holding strength.
Hello ..... I am not sure how to contact you but I purchased the shed building guide and when i print it .... the font color is so light I can barely read it. Can you let me know how I can print this so I can see the text? I dont want to have my laptp on th job site .... thanks, Murray
Hi Murray... I sent you an email on this. Please check and thanks
10:12 how are they secured to the wall? and i know it is not hurricane ties, he does not add those until later...
Hi Jennifer... they are toe nailed to the top plate with nails. 2 on each end (one on each side) of each truss. The footage for this part of the shed build was damaged which is why it is not shown.
10:10 How was it secured to the top plate? Toe-nailed? There must be a better way, but it's not shown.
Yes, toe nailed and then the addition of hurricane ties. The footage for this part of the series was corrupted and could not be redone.
How thick is t111 siding
Hi Bruce... most building supply stores stock 3/8" thick panels. However it can be ordered in 5/8" and 3/4" (But I have not seen or even had the option to order 3/4" in Canada).
do u need a building permit
Hi Rody.... in most communities across the US an Canada a permit is required when you exceed 120 sq ft, however some allow larger outbuildings and others might be a bit less. You will need to check with your local building inspector/department to find out for sure. Additionally, if you live in a community governed by HOC guidelines you may have height and size restrictions - be sure to check these too if applicable.
Are 3 inch deck screws and 3 inch construction screws the same type of screw #8''s?Do they have the same shearing strength , is the difference only the coating on the deck screw ?
Jerry Peckford Hi Jerry... I am not sure. If you are concerned about shear strength, I would consider using nails where this is a concern. On a shed this size, it shouldn't really be an issue. But if I was building a garage, house or any other larger structure I would take the shear strength of fasteners into consideration and to meet code where (and if) required.
Thanks Henry
Informative. Style is a bit…wooden?!😅