For me, the ideas in th-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
You guys are amazing. I went to your channel and there are tons of videos. (I subscribed, and made it a favorite). The internet and TH-cam are truly gifts to society. So many things to learn, so little time! Thanks for your contributions and helping all of us to be more....well....constructive!
Straighten your walls. Straighten, brace and plumb your ridge. Cut your rafters dead on. Install alternate rafters. Put in lookout blocking. Hammer drill subfacia, shim to plumb. Gets easy after the first hundred houses. Good four man crew can frame a simple gable roof in 3 days. The best framed roofs take 10 guys (and gals) a week or more... residential. I have worked framing commercial roofs for months. Sweet gig if you can get it. Put your flying gable on before you raise the wall. Trim it out too. If you are good, you can tyvek and side it before you raise it. Wood framing is an art, best performed by the young. It takes years to understand. It is good, those who become interested.
For a cathedral using a ridge beam and 10" or 12" rafters would you use a 2x6 for look out? It seems like if I used the other sizes the overhang would be too deep.
Finally, someone who answers my question, and then some. I love the quality of work. How did you cut the Facia on an angle with precision? The only thing I can think of is using a track saw or using a circular saw with a homemade 2x4 track nailed/screwed down.
Probably used a table saw. But a circular saw would do. Look at this video of a Japanese carpenter taking a slice off a board with a circular saw with a guide attachment. At a minute in th-cam.com/video/adkmODHPzYw/w-d-xo.html
Your video is AWESOME . . . VERY CLEAR, IN SYNC INSTRUCTIONS WITH ACTIONS, and THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF INFORMATION . . . THANK YOU BUNCHES! BEAUTIFUL CONSTRUCTION!
I um really enjoyed um this video! You um really explained um the um details of how to um cut the rafter tails so they um all were in a um perfectly straight line.
The little ski jump you reference at the 7.00 mark is quite a desirable effect on steep roof pitches as it slows rainwater down when falling into the gutter which stops rainwater over shooting the gutter especially when raining hard. Most steep pitched Victorian houses built here in the UK were built purposely this way and aesthetically looks nice as swept eve feature.
The one side of your gable overhang you end nail but what about the other side. Do you have to toenail that in? Also why do you not need any collar ties for your rafters?
I'm currently replacing the fascia and soffits on a house that I own and marveling at the crappy construction that the original builder and his legal-immigration-challenged day-layborers put into the house. The rain gutters ruined the fascia and most of the soffits. The soffits were made out of Masonite (i.e. cardboard), so they don't handle getting wet that well. Much of the last foot of the roof sheathing was exposed to water because of the roof having what you called a "ski slope" at the edge, thus providing a place for water to pool since the roof is only cut on a 30 degree slope (at least that was about the angle that seemed to match for the end trim pieces that I needed to cut). I remember helping replace the roof on the house at our family's ranch probably 45+ years ago... The roof decking solid board lumber (shiplap, perhaps). It was probably 70 years old at that time and still in good shape. Because of it being solid board lumber, if a piece that was near the edge had rotted, it would have been possible to remove it and install a new board without having to cut out the plywood like would be necessary these days.
Hey Great vids guys. My first question here though - hoping for an answer. I have one of those pre-fab sheds, you know - the ones that are built like crap? Yeah , those. Anyway I want to insulate the shed and put a small heater in for the winter. The rear and gables have no sofits but the front eave does. However the front eave sofit has a solid plywood panel in it so that there is now air flow up through the sofit into the rafter spaces. Why did they do that and can I just remove the board and also replace the solid sofit vinyl with vented vinyl? Is having only front sofits good enough or will I be sorry on the back roof later with mold/excess moisture? Sorry for the long question, I just wanted to make sure you understood. Thanks and keep up the great videos!
Question: When you installed the lookouts on the eve... You mentioned that you cut them at 10", which makes sense given a 12" overhang (12 - 1-1/2 for the fascia - 1/2 for the sheathing)... but you left that gap around the sheathing along the gable rafter... Did you cut the lookouts 10-1/2" and then notch out 1/2" for the sheathing where they covered it, or am I missing something visually here? I ask this because I'm doing a small duck house and I'm trying to decide how to lay out the rafters / eaves and the sheathing. On one hand, doing the sheathing first and then adding fly rafters on the outside, lined up with the edges along the roof profile seems easiest; on the other hand, doing the fly rafters / lookouts first, then sheathing seems like it would make the eaves a little stronger, but then I'll have to add an additional nailing surface for the top edge of my sheathing. Thoughts?
Framer here : make your walls nice and straight. I use an extendable level and go from plate to plate. I don't sight it fir the most part I just level it.. if your walls are crappy your rafters will look crappy and not fit right on the ridge
If your rafter tails extend more than 14 to 16 ft the chalk line will sag down the rafters. Hang a dry line under the rafters and mark each tail. Perfectly straight allowing for wind. I prefer a Squangle for this rather than a speed square.
Do you have too much meat of the rafter gone at the bird's mouth? It looks like you have a 3-1/2" seat cut on a 2x6 rafter. The IRC's D/4 code for rafters states that you can only notch 1/4 of the depth of the rafter. Your maximum seat cut should be no more than 1-3/8".
If for some reason you end up having a wall that is not perfectly level, you can use a string line from end to end with 8d nails to adjust your sub fascia to be straight.
7:16 could you cut at 8 inches plumb line, then cut from the bottom up 6 inch plumb line/notch to keep the slope of the rafter and still mount the fascia board leaving a full 8 inch fascia ?
Did you allow for the 1/2" sheathing in determining your 'fly' (rake overhang)?? With 10" fly blocking, it will only finish at 11 1/2". Further, why simple blocking instead of lookouts??
Will youPlease tell me why you have your raptor scale hanging over the 2 x 6 at one minute and 49 seconds. Should you not have it lower? Or perhaps not hanging over the top of the 2 x 6? What changes when you do it your way and not my suggested ways?
Your "fly" rafter ("barge" rafter) should be hung on lookouts, not just blocked. Otherwise it's just hanging there on nails at each end and whatever you nail on through the roof sheathing. Nice series of videos... very instructional.
I just watched Roof framing with Larry Haun and he cut notches in the gable rafter and placed a block against 2nd to last rafter, in and through the notch..making the lookout overhang for fascia. I guess that's how you do it?
Well done job, I live in Brazil, and I would like to make a roof like this in my house, and I would like to know, what is the minimum distance that should leave between the ceiling and the OSB, thanks in advance
Cleber medeiros, Those measurements are determined by the climate you build in. Since some climates have drastic temperature changes (up to 100-degree differences) compared to some that stay the same all year round, those measurements can have a significant difference. I would check with your local code authority and find out what they require for your climate zone. Hopefully, that helps and thank you for watching!
I see you ripped an angle on the top of your rough fascia board. We usually just drop the fascia so that the outside edge planes out with the roof slope
It should be the same as your roof pitch, right? I think if you use the pitch angle on your speed square, that would be pretty close. At least that's how I'm hoping it goes. I'm about to start.
@@NSMConstruction I am a 40yr+ carpenter and I knew by watching that you use a nail gun for your work since you don't know how to use a hammer...looks like you can cut the last 6-8" off the handle??? on most jobs...if you can't drive a 12d nail in 3 strokes...they will fire you hand driving nails is a lost art... js :D
It would be much easier to perform these tasks if the scaffolding was lowered about 2 ft. And watch that thumb on your left hand. You were making me nervous as you were swinging the hammer. I bet that wasn't too fun putting the bevel cut on the 2x8.
Cutting rafter tail off a ladder can be fatal, once you blow the framing so bad that your tails are goofed up, you need to keep trying or maybe try being a baker? Or go back to Pizza Pros I’ve seen guys almost bleed out when they sink a blade into their thigh(65 stiches )
Probably a table saw... I'm not a professional carpenter, but given the tools that I have available to me as a hobbyist / homeowner, that is what *I* would use... You could probably do it with a circular saw and a straight-edge for a guide (which is also the basis for the "track saw" that I've seen for sale lately).
I like to cut my rafters on a while they're laying on a sawhorse instead of walking around on a walk board and taking the risk of getting hurt and getting saw dust in the eyes good planning and you can do all of this before before you even get started
In my humble opinion, if you made sure your walls were straight and parallel you would not have to run rafters long. Never cut anything in the air that you can cut on the ground. Also, putting the roof sheating on first makes putting on the sub facia easier. Just an observation.
For me, the ideas in th-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
You guys are amazing. I went to your channel and there are tons of videos. (I subscribed, and made it a favorite). The internet and TH-cam are truly gifts to society. So many things to learn, so little time! Thanks for your contributions and helping all of us to be more....well....constructive!
Finally someone who takes the time to do that right! Kudos to you 👍
One of my favorite videos for what I am looking to do.
Thank you, helped me see my own project in a new way. Much appreciated.
Um, thank you, um, for this very, um, informative, um video.
I grew up in rural Minnesota and even this is umbelievable. 🍻
Straighten your walls. Straighten, brace and plumb your ridge. Cut your rafters dead on. Install alternate rafters. Put in lookout blocking. Hammer drill subfacia, shim to plumb. Gets easy after the first hundred houses.
Good four man crew can frame a simple gable roof in 3 days. The best framed roofs take 10 guys (and gals) a week or more... residential. I have worked framing commercial roofs for months. Sweet gig if you can get it.
Put your flying gable on before you raise the wall. Trim it out too. If you are good, you can tyvek and side it before you raise it.
Wood framing is an art, best performed by the young. It takes years to understand. It is good, those who become interested.
For a cathedral using a ridge beam and 10" or 12" rafters would you use a 2x6 for look out? It seems like if I used the other sizes the overhang would be too deep.
Finally, someone who answers my question, and then some. I love the quality of work.
How did you cut the Facia on an angle with precision? The only thing I can think of is using a track saw or using a circular saw with a homemade 2x4 track nailed/screwed down.
Probably used a table saw. But a circular saw would do. Look at this video of a Japanese carpenter taking a slice off a board with a circular saw with a guide attachment. At a minute in th-cam.com/video/adkmODHPzYw/w-d-xo.html
Your video is AWESOME . . . VERY CLEAR, IN SYNC INSTRUCTIONS WITH ACTIONS, and THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF INFORMATION . . . THANK YOU BUNCHES! BEAUTIFUL CONSTRUCTION!
Thanks for the detail on the soffit install, been struggling with this cad detail for my new garage. Much appreciated!
Thank you! I've been looking for a video on sub facia, and this is just what we needed!
Good demonstration. Thanks.
This series is awesome! Many thanks
This is really an excellent video series, thanks!
I um really enjoyed um this video! You um really explained um the um details of how to um cut the rafter tails so they um all were in a um perfectly straight line.
Great video how do you determine the angle to the fascia board ni like this method
When I hit a single nail that many times, I was yelled at. HIT THE FUCKIN THING, DON’T TAP IT. That’s how I learned.
Yeah, but you didn't choke up on it the way he did 😎
No Shit
And use a real framers hammer
😂💯
The little ski jump you reference at the 7.00 mark is quite a desirable effect on steep roof pitches as it slows rainwater down when falling into the gutter which stops rainwater over shooting the gutter especially when raining hard. Most steep pitched Victorian houses built here in the UK were built purposely this way and aesthetically looks nice as swept eve feature.
The one side of your gable overhang you end nail but what about the other side. Do you have to toenail that in? Also why do you not need any collar ties for your rafters?
I'm currently replacing the fascia and soffits on a house that I own and marveling at the crappy construction that the original builder and his legal-immigration-challenged day-layborers put into the house. The rain gutters ruined the fascia and most of the soffits. The soffits were made out of Masonite (i.e. cardboard), so they don't handle getting wet that well. Much of the last foot of the roof sheathing was exposed to water because of the roof having what you called a "ski slope" at the edge, thus providing a place for water to pool since the roof is only cut on a 30 degree slope (at least that was about the angle that seemed to match for the end trim pieces that I needed to cut). I remember helping replace the roof on the house at our family's ranch probably 45+ years ago... The roof decking solid board lumber (shiplap, perhaps). It was probably 70 years old at that time and still in good shape. Because of it being solid board lumber, if a piece that was near the edge had rotted, it would have been possible to remove it and install a new board without having to cut out the plywood like would be necessary these days.
" legal-immigration-challenged day-layborers" 🤣😂😆💯
Yeah this a good video!!
thank you for the detailed info
Good explanation
Hey Great vids guys. My first question here though - hoping for an answer. I have one of those pre-fab sheds, you know - the ones that are built like crap? Yeah , those. Anyway I want to insulate the shed and put a small heater in for the winter. The rear and gables have no sofits but the front eave does. However the front eave sofit has a solid plywood panel in it so that there is now air flow up through the sofit into the rafter spaces. Why did they do that and can I just remove the board and also replace the solid sofit vinyl with vented vinyl? Is having only front sofits good enough or will I be sorry on the back roof later with mold/excess moisture? Sorry for the long question, I just wanted to make sure you understood. Thanks and keep up the great videos!
Question: When you installed the lookouts on the eve... You mentioned that you cut them at 10", which makes sense given a 12" overhang (12 - 1-1/2 for the fascia - 1/2 for the sheathing)... but you left that gap around the sheathing along the gable rafter... Did you cut the lookouts 10-1/2" and then notch out 1/2" for the sheathing where they covered it, or am I missing something visually here?
I ask this because I'm doing a small duck house and I'm trying to decide how to lay out the rafters / eaves and the sheathing. On one hand, doing the sheathing first and then adding fly rafters on the outside, lined up with the edges along the roof profile seems easiest; on the other hand, doing the fly rafters / lookouts first, then sheathing seems like it would make the eaves a little stronger, but then I'll have to add an additional nailing surface for the top edge of my sheathing.
Thoughts?
Framer here : make your walls nice and straight. I use an extendable level and go from plate to plate. I don't sight it fir the most part I just level it.. if your walls are crappy your rafters will look crappy and not fit right on the ridge
Great detailed video!
@15:10 where do I get one of those speed hammers LOL.
Helpful info. Thanks.
If your rafter tails extend more than 14 to 16 ft the chalk line will sag down the rafters. Hang a dry line under the rafters and mark each tail. Perfectly straight allowing for wind. I prefer a Squangle for this rather than a speed square.
Now show how to do it alone!
It's actually quite easy. 😀
As much as I wanted to watch this video”UM” I couldn’t take the “UM’s”!
good video. Many tips.
Guys, where are your work gloves? safety first!
Excellent content thank you .
Would it be possible to put this shed together without the floor? I am looking for an attractive shed for retrofitting over my pool equipment...
Do you have too much meat of the rafter gone at the bird's mouth? It looks like you have a 3-1/2" seat cut on a 2x6 rafter. The IRC's D/4 code for rafters states that you can only notch 1/4 of the depth of the rafter. Your maximum seat cut should be no more than 1-3/8".
I think it's a shed? No occupants so codes don't apply due to the small square footage
If for some reason you end up having a wall that is not perfectly level, you can use a string line from end to end with 8d nails to adjust your sub fascia to be straight.
It took me forever to find a video that uses the exact same circular saw that I have. Thanks!
Can you guys do a teaching on cathedral roof framing
7:16 could you cut at 8 inches plumb line, then cut from the bottom up 6 inch plumb line/notch to keep the slope of the rafter and still mount the fascia board leaving a full 8 inch fascia ?
Thanks and Recommended shed planning in 2019
Did you allow for the 1/2" sheathing in determining your 'fly' (rake overhang)?? With 10" fly blocking, it will only finish at 11 1/2". Further, why simple blocking instead of lookouts??
Had to reread your comment a couple times i get it though thanks
Will youPlease tell me why you have your raptor scale hanging over the 2 x 6 at one minute and 49 seconds. Should you not have it lower? Or perhaps not hanging over the top of the 2 x 6? What changes when you do it your way and not my suggested ways?
Does the grain of the facia board cup toward the house or away from the house? Or does it matter.
Your "fly" rafter ("barge" rafter) should be hung on lookouts, not just blocked. Otherwise it's just hanging there on nails at each end and whatever you nail on through the roof sheathing. Nice series of videos... very instructional.
I just watched Roof framing with Larry Haun and he cut notches in the gable rafter and placed a block against 2nd to last rafter, in and through the notch..making the lookout overhang for fascia. I guess that's how you do it?
@@laurieclarkson9180 quantity versus quality. Its how all the new home s are being built. Cutting corners for profit
Wish you would’ve shown ripping the beveled edge on facia. Skillsaw or table saw?
@@daveb4194 Hey explained in detail why he used a 2x8. It was to provide a llot of meat for nailing the drip
Well done job, I live in Brazil, and I would like to make a roof like this in my house, and I would like to know, what is the minimum distance that should leave between the ceiling and the OSB, thanks in advance
Cleber medeiros,
Those measurements are determined by the climate you build in. Since some climates have drastic temperature changes (up to 100-degree differences) compared to some that stay the same all year round, those measurements can have a significant difference. I would check with your local code authority and find out what they require for your climate zone. Hopefully, that helps and thank you for watching!
I see you ripped an angle on the top of your rough fascia board. We usually just drop the fascia so that the outside edge planes out with the roof slope
Do you have to cut the ends of the rafters?
How do you measure the angle of your bevel for the sub fascia board?
It should be the same as your roof pitch, right? I think if you use the pitch angle on your speed square, that would be pretty close. At least that's how I'm hoping it goes. I'm about to start.
What size were ur rafters? Ru gonna do blocking between rafters or no? I was told u need blocking between rafters I'm using 2x6s 16oc spanning 7-8'
Great video. Im going to use a nail gun tho. Call me lazy !
@@NSMConstruction I am a 40yr+ carpenter and I knew by watching that you use a nail gun for your work since you don't know how to use a hammer...looks like you can cut the last 6-8" off the handle???
on most jobs...if you can't drive a 12d nail in 3 strokes...they will fire you
hand driving nails is a lost art...
js
:D
@@docyoungblood9521 My father had forearms like Popeye's. There were no nail guns back then.
awesome build, but please invest in a nailer. You're making me anxious lol
do you have a video on removing aluminum trim on gable ends and use pvc for the rake while improving the beauty of the appearance?
At 16:19 cant you just take a foot and subtract fly rafter thickness and wall shearing?
It would be much easier to perform these tasks if the scaffolding was lowered about 2 ft. And watch that thumb on your left hand. You were making me nervous as you were swinging the hammer. I bet that wasn't too fun putting the bevel cut on the 2x8.
Cutting rafter tail off a ladder can be fatal, once you blow the framing so bad that your tails are goofed up, you need to keep trying or maybe try being a baker? Or go back to Pizza Pros
I’ve seen guys almost bleed out when they sink a blade into their thigh(65 stiches )
How did you cut the bevel of the fascia?
Probably a table saw... I'm not a professional carpenter, but given the tools that I have available to me as a hobbyist / homeowner, that is what *I* would use... You could probably do it with a circular saw and a straight-edge for a guide (which is also the basis for the "track saw" that I've seen for sale lately).
I like to cut my rafters on a while they're laying on a sawhorse instead of walking around on a walk board and taking the risk of getting hurt and getting saw dust in the eyes good planning and you can do all of this before before you even get started
@Dark One For a price.
Does anyone know what pitch roof this is?
Umm, umm, umm. Umm? Umm! Umm...
Um
haha asshole
I counted 25 "um" in first two minutes. That's 1 "um" every 4.8 seconds!
Correction it’s ahmm
greg42864 ahmm I think u missed a few
At least he took the time to put that bevel cut on there…that’s time wasted with the half inch step where it wasn’t lined up with the top of the truss
What’s a ruff
Umm who holds a hammer half way like that😂. Umm thank you. Umm keep safe
We're those 3" nails?
I don't know, are we?
Wow.
When is the best time to eat almonds?
In the morning.
In my humble opinion, if you made sure your walls were straight and parallel you would not have to run rafters long. Never cut anything in the air that you can cut on the ground. Also, putting the roof sheating on first makes putting on the sub facia easier. Just an observation.
You guys don’t miter the corner? Must be piece working.
"Shed"
As simple as this is some idiots will manage to eff it up or knowingly dot wrong.
Sped up it sounds like laser guns.
your Facia Board is it a 2x6 ???
Its actually a 2x8 since a 2x6 wouldn't cover the rafter tails completely.
@@NSMConstruction Thanks for Reply
How about the RAFTERS 2x6 ? and Ridge Beam 2x8 ?
great info but man use a nailer to speed this up. or swing that hammer man lol
@@NSMConstruction may i know the reason why you don't use pneumatic nailer.
@@shalomjoseph5125 safety and liability reasons since they're intended for volunteers.
Just go full Larry Haun on him: one swing to set it, one swing to drive it.
why no airguns?
Errrr urrrrrrmmmm ummm
Urmmmm ahh ummmmm
Why do you cut the bottom nub off?
So the tail (the titty) doesn't stick below the facia and the soffit guy doesn't haven't to hack it off with a hammer
Say ummm one more time
I did it with Woodglut.
how many times did he say umm...
Uuuuuuummm!
Pneumatic framing nailer.
These videos are intended for volunteer builders. Foe safety and liability reasons, obviously.
Birds mouth supposed to be no more than 1/3 the rafter. Y’all weakened the hell out that roof
construccion
I did the same with Stodoys :)
Man....do not have a air pistola 😲😲😲😲😲
UMMMMMMMMMM
Wow how many times do you need to say ....Um 🤔🤔🤣🤣🤣
Ridge board***********
Um. And um. And then um. More um.
Umm..
Um um um um um um good grief
Ummm....um....uuumm...ah....ummm
Um um um
ah,,,ah....ah....ah every other word is AH
🙄
Um umm umm um um Jesus Christ dude
Um, um, um, um, um,um,um um,um. Um
Don't say ahummm
your birds mouths are cut too deep