Thank you - I've been really looking for this; how a Volcano performs with normal 0.4mm nozzle. Been considering one for a while, but really didn't want to have to swap that whole arrangement when printing something more detailed.
Great video. Just picked up a gen E3D V6 with a the volcano hot end yesterday. It is going to be used on my hotrodded Ender5 Plus. Also have a gen Bondtech BMG and running it off a gen Duet 2 Wifi. Looking forward to bigger nozzles and faster more accurate performance.
You might get the same or even better results by a copperhead heatbreak combined with a copper heatblock, and a Briss fanduct. Nice clean prints though.
I have been using my volcano for around 5 years now and it has been fantastic. I've only ever had hotend clogs when my heatsink fan came unplugged/died. It has been my main nozzle ever since I purchased it. Using the 0.4mm nozzle on the volcano intrigues me. Do you ever have any jams with the 0.4mm? Are you using the titanium heat break for better heat resistance? Ever print with PLA or PETG using it? Thanks for the insight.
I never had a jam with the .4 nozzle. I still have not printed PETG with this printer, but I have printed Nylon and Polycarbonate blends and still did not have any issue. I think the volcano is a better print than the standard e3dV6 block. I was not using the titanium heat break. It's very surprising how effective the .4 nozzle was on the volcano I cannot knock it in anyway.
I use volcano with 0,4mm nozzles all the time. Also work alot with bigger nozzles. It works perfect. I only added to new printer 50W 24V heating element. Check my instagram, there are few photos of my printer instagram.com/p/BwRFu5mhtXM/?igshid=1oogw98exqxiw
I want to get the larger heating element with mine. I can literally print so fast I can out pace the heater even on the volcano! Your printer is a beast!
Can it print well at 200mms, 7k acceleration in a robust corexy setup, At 0.2 layer height with 0.4 nozzle? Do you think it will keep up? Your thoughts?
if the machine can handle the speeds the super volcano would dunk on the prints. Ill post a link to another video that I thought covered the theoretical flow rates, and even a flow calculator th-cam.com/video/h0LxiKVpQHQ/w-d-xo.html
Im not sure if they started to include the .2 nozzle with the volcano. At the time .4 was as small as they would let you go. You can use a bowden tube with the volcano.
Thanks for your great video. Do you have problems with stringing now with the Volcano? Did you change your retraction, wipe or coast settings when changing nozzles? What print speeds are you using? I have S3D also and I am having trouble with my volcano oozing. Would you kindly share your slicer settings please? I would be most grateful. Thanks and keep it up.👍
I set my retraction to 1mm (PLA, Nylon will not allow for such a retraction). This is for prints that have layers .2mm layer thickness. One thing to consider is that some filaments even the same type and brand will be more stringy than others and it's sometimes you can only minimize it but never fully get rid of it. I have a red PLA and black PLA from a company I really love. The black PLA is almost always stringy no mattery what I do and the red has almost no strings with the same gcode settings. Another thing to consider is my setup is direct drive and my printer prints kinda fast compared to other printers. I am not sure if that changes the stringyness, only how long its being heated for. Hopefully I was able to deliver some type of insight.
Iheart3dprinting Thanks for the reply and your help. I also have a direct drive extruder. I will continue to adjust my retraction, wipe and coast settings. I will just have to be methodical with each roll of filament. Cheers, Christian
@@ckafam I am a big advocate of having a favorite roll and specific color and keeping it off to the side to troubleshoot printing issues. When your printer is acting up, I reload my "diagnostic spool" and do the same print to see if the issue resolves itself. You will be surprised on how many artifacts are filament dependent and go away when you put in your diagnostic test spool. Not all filaments are equal, filaments that use Natureworks 4043D print really well. Cheers
@@ckafam wipe and coast can actually make stringing worse! Turn them off and try increasing retraction SPEED as well as X/Y travel speed. On my sidewinder x1 which uses openbuilds style rollers I can get pretty high speeds so I set that to 6800mm/minute travel speed (say you finish a line and you're increasing the speed of travel to the next island on the print to reduce the time it has to ooze) vertical lift could also cause some stringing and dimples in the surface of your print. You can also try decreasing the flow mid print if you find that the top surface isn't clean and the nozzle grinds on travel moves
hi there! I print at true 150 to 300mm/s on a .5 nozzle .2 layers 210c PLA, not vase mode just all my prints, I can tell you that the problem is the e3d design, it's really badly designed and machined, the internal geometry and the quality of the parts are really bad, that's why it's not consistent and has high backpressure, needing an extruder like the bondtech
with a good hotend you should be able to push at least 150mm/s without cranking the temperature up, also a good hotend doesn't loose quality at high speeds, the volcano is better than the v6, but the whole e3d lineup is flawed to begin with in my experience
Thank you - I've been really looking for this; how a Volcano performs with normal 0.4mm nozzle. Been considering one for a while, but really didn't want to have to swap that whole arrangement when printing something more detailed.
Great video. Just picked up a gen E3D V6 with a the volcano hot end yesterday. It is going to be used on my hotrodded Ender5 Plus. Also have a gen Bondtech BMG and running it off a gen Duet 2 Wifi. Looking forward to bigger nozzles and faster more accurate performance.
Awesome and welcome, I love people who love to hotrod their printers.
Time for me to start putting some money away. I want a build like yours. Nice work man, keep the videos coming!
Thanks for the honest review!! I have a volcano that I was just waiting to replace my crappy v6! Have a great day !
You might get the same or even better results by a copperhead heatbreak combined with a copper heatblock, and a Briss fanduct. Nice clean prints though.
I have been using my volcano for around 5 years now and it has been fantastic. I've only ever had hotend clogs when my heatsink fan came unplugged/died. It has been my main nozzle ever since I purchased it.
Using the 0.4mm nozzle on the volcano intrigues me. Do you ever have any jams with the 0.4mm? Are you using the titanium heat break for better heat resistance? Ever print with PLA or PETG using it?
Thanks for the insight.
I never had a jam with the .4 nozzle. I still have not printed PETG with this printer, but I have printed Nylon and Polycarbonate blends and still did not have any issue. I think the volcano is a better print than the standard e3dV6 block. I was not using the titanium heat break. It's very surprising how effective the .4 nozzle was on the volcano I cannot knock it in anyway.
Exactly what I wanted to know - can it be as accurate with 0.4 nozzle as ordinal V6.
Vladimir Olegovich yes and I only use .4!
How much flow can you get from this setup with a 1.2mm nozzle?
I use volcano with 0,4mm nozzles all the time. Also work alot with bigger nozzles. It works perfect. I only added to new printer 50W 24V heating element.
Check my instagram, there are few photos of my printer
instagram.com/p/BwRFu5mhtXM/?igshid=1oogw98exqxiw
I want to get the larger heating element with mine. I can literally print so fast I can out pace the heater even on the volcano! Your printer is a beast!
Can it print well at 200mms, 7k acceleration in a robust corexy setup, At 0.2 layer height with 0.4 nozzle? Do you think it will keep up? Your thoughts?
if the machine can handle the speeds the super volcano would dunk on the prints. Ill post a link to another video that I thought covered the theoretical flow rates, and even a flow calculator
th-cam.com/video/h0LxiKVpQHQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi would you share retraction setting for this e3d volcano?
I use 1mm, I think the gcode that this company gave me is a whopping 4mm.
Would I be able to use a volcano setup with my Bowden and a 0.2 nozzle?
Im not sure if they started to include the .2 nozzle with the volcano. At the time .4 was as small as they would let you go. You can use a bowden tube with the volcano.
Thanks for your great video. Do you have problems with stringing now with the Volcano? Did you change your retraction, wipe or coast settings when changing nozzles? What print speeds are you using? I have S3D also and I am having trouble with my volcano oozing. Would you kindly share your slicer settings please? I would be most grateful. Thanks and keep it up.👍
I set my retraction to 1mm (PLA, Nylon will not allow for such a retraction). This is for prints that have layers .2mm layer thickness. One thing to consider is that some filaments even the same type and brand will be more stringy than others and it's sometimes you can only minimize it but never fully get rid of it. I have a red PLA and black PLA from a company I really love. The black PLA is almost always stringy no mattery what I do and the red has almost no strings with the same gcode settings. Another thing to consider is my setup is direct drive and my printer prints kinda fast compared to other printers. I am not sure if that changes the stringyness, only how long its being heated for. Hopefully I was able to deliver some type of insight.
Iheart3dprinting Thanks for the reply and your help. I also have a direct drive extruder. I will continue to adjust my retraction, wipe and coast settings. I will just have to be methodical with each roll of filament. Cheers, Christian
@@ckafam I am a big advocate of having a favorite roll and specific color and keeping it off to the side to troubleshoot printing issues. When your printer is acting up, I reload my "diagnostic spool" and do the same print to see if the issue resolves itself. You will be surprised on how many artifacts are filament dependent and go away when you put in your diagnostic test spool. Not all filaments are equal, filaments that use Natureworks 4043D print really well. Cheers
Iheart3dprinting Great tip. I will do just that. Thanks
@@ckafam wipe and coast can actually make stringing worse! Turn them off and try increasing retraction SPEED as well as X/Y travel speed. On my sidewinder x1 which uses openbuilds style rollers I can get pretty high speeds so I set that to 6800mm/minute travel speed (say you finish a line and you're increasing the speed of travel to the next island on the print to reduce the time it has to ooze) vertical lift could also cause some stringing and dimples in the surface of your print. You can also try decreasing the flow mid print if you find that the top surface isn't clean and the nozzle grinds on travel moves
Direct all the way vs bowden
hi there! I print at true 150 to 300mm/s on a .5 nozzle .2 layers 210c PLA, not vase mode just all my prints, I can tell you that the problem is the e3d design, it's really badly designed and machined, the internal geometry and the quality of the parts are really bad, that's why it's not consistent and has high backpressure, needing an extruder like the bondtech
with a good hotend you should be able to push at least 150mm/s without cranking the temperature up, also a good hotend doesn't loose quality at high speeds, the volcano is better than the v6, but the whole e3d lineup is flawed to begin with in my experience
Could you elaborate on the quality problem? It don't really see one... they are pretty good