The E3D Volcano
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.พ. 2015
- Harder, Better, Faster, Stronger: The E3D Volcano is the longest, thickest and fastest hotend option out there!
Get your Eruption on at E3D e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Volcano
Aria the Dragon by Louise Driggers www.youmagine.com/users/loubie
Low-Poly Pokémon by Agustin Flowalistik www.youmagine.com/users/flowa...
Buddha by Thaed (originally from "the Internet") www.thingiverse.com/thing:29006
Some images by bigrep.com and e3d-online.com
Music by Rockit Maxx
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Disposable hex wrench... I keep those as precious treasure... Never knew they were disposable
Neither did I. But I knew them well as being easily lose-able :D
I to, and every time I go to harbor frieght I get another set. Mostly because I can use one of those things, and lose it 10 minutes later. They are worse the socks in the laundry...
So glad I subbed! The massive array of 3D printing parts available can be a bit overwhelming at times, so it's a nice change to have some things summarised nicely.
I'm currently building a meter tall 2020 Kossel, so I'll definitely consider the Volcano for my larger prints.
Thank you so much for making these videos. They are incredibly helpful. You break things down very well and keep to the point. Also, I'm a fan of the very subtle humor you infuse into these informative videos. Keep it up (please)!
That's awesome! Just curious: What precautions do you personally take to combat the fumes produced by extruding these plastics? I have been reading about the effects of these fumes and some ways to filter them etc. I have my 3D printer near a window (not too close) and have a window fan pulling air out but I hate leaving the window open, as this introduces variations in the room temperature. I put on a respirator occasionally if the fumes become too irritating.
I am seriously considering a fume hood of some kind. I watched a video about a DIY fume hood that filters the fumes before they are sent outside to protect the environment. Any suggestions? Just curious if you have some kind of setup in place to help with this. Much appreciated.
I really appreciate your reviews. You address the issues that are important to me with sufficient depth, but in a way that is clear and easy to understand.
Tom, I love your sense of humor. Your jokes crack me up.
Bought two eruption packs (early adopter), looking to install them in place of to my dual e3d v6 this week! Such a marvellous extruder!
As always, great review Tom!
The thick print layers do look very nice and give a very definite texture, which would work great in demonstrating the layer structure of 3D prints to people.
Excellent review Thomas, thank you.
Looking at upgrading to a bowden extruder and this video was really helpful in choosing between the Volcano and V6. Thanks!
Thomas, what flow rates (in mm3/s) did you manage to reach with the Volcano?
Thank you for this review, I'm wrapping up a Vulcanus Max build that I scaled up to 600mm x 400mm x 400mm with the intention to use a .8mm nozzle. This pretty much confirmed that this product is the right tool for the job. Thanks! Also to answer your video's question, I build large props and the finish work is half the battle anyway, lower resolution is not a problem at all and it was expected moving into a XXL print volume machine.
Why not a dual setup where the .4mm prints the outer high detail and the volcano prints the inside fill. That way you get the best of both worlds.
That's a great idea. I might test that out. As a test I set a model to 100% infill, and set my other extruder to do the infill with a .8mm nozzle, and the time reduced from over 10 hours down to 5 hours.
Did this work for you? If so, how did it turn out?
Nozzles would be at different heights. Volcano is longer
@@jimmer147 You could have dual volcano, like with the cyclops heat sink. Only diameter of the nozzle would matter then.
Off The Wall Family well, good luck with Z leveling of this hotend for dual extrusion :) it’s practically non existent.
Definitely something i will be trying on my upcoming huge volume printer
AWESOME!!! It's exactly what I want for functional prototype parts!! :-)
You're living the dream! I have this beauty laying here for a couple of weeks now - but university still prohibited testing it :-( Thanks for the video, it encourages me to bring the studies to an end ;-) See you soon...
I WANNA GO FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAST!!!! Great review Tom, along with a very interesting hotend. Nice job as always
definitely like the large bore movement. great for big prints. thanks for the review. have you ever thought about drilling out your own nozzles?
How does the retraction setting work for this long heat block? it's hard to digest the fact that there is no visible Ooze. I'm sure there might be some issues with clogging of the nozzle. Maybe I will try to integrate this with my D3D auto lift hot end. Still looking forward for T-bone cape for BBB review. Thanks a lot, your doing a great job.
Thomas Sanladerer delivering first class info as usual!
Thomas you are by far the best at explanation, example and good clear video shots, Thanks for that. You have brought up a problem I am having and that is getting the right parts to match up with each other in achieving my end goal. Also slow down your speech a bit as my ears are not accustom to your accent. You mentioned some alternative extruders would be nice to have links to check them out. Keep going your doing a great job.
I love the volcano. the 0.4mm nozzle is perfect for the majority of my prints
I like your style...
subbed!
I used a volcano extruder with a 0.3mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height, and apart from some oozing I'd say the print was flawless.
Your videos are very informative but I'd really appreciate if you add more footage of the actual parts running to illustrate your arguments, keep up the good work!
Great review. Answered key questions so I can add it to my tool box .
Thanks again Thomas ! this will definitely help as I have a 435*470*690 build volume and want to make some large cosplay parts !
Excellent review. Will you be posting a video about the Chimera? I have yet to find a video anywhere other than from E3D briefly introducing the product. I'd like to see it in action before getting it versus 2 individual E3D-V6s.
I experimented with larger bore in the past. 1.55mm bore to be precise. I bored a j-head to that size. It printed fine, but had to ramp up the temperature as the hot end had very little thermal mass to keep up. I am glad e3d have come out with this. I am currently experimenting with a 1mm nozzle on my own setup and will upload a video with a DIY version of this. I wont like my video to this video as I feel that is bad practice. Happy 3d printing everyone. :)
Fantastic videos. Keep it up.
Hi Tom, I'm trying to put a volcano on my Prusa I3 mk2 and I'm having trouble figuring out how to reset the nozzle height in the firmware so that the calibration routines will run properly. I also need to figure out a better mount for the PINDA, but that's secondary to the nozzle height issue.
Thanks! Great videos too, keep up the good work!
Hi Tom
what do you recommend? To upgrade regular extruder to bowden extruder or not? Which works better?
Thanks for the great review, very useful. I saw the Chimera hot end in this video. Are you going to do a review of that? I'm considering buying that one and a review of it would be really appreciated.
another good video..tks. I just got mine, waiting to see how it performs.
One tiny help please though, about layer heights: i keep reading 80% of nozzle diameter is the maximum layer height you should go.
How about the minimum, in your experience?
Thank you so much!
GREAT review!
You probably dont care at all but does anybody know a tool to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my login password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me
One surprising use is also for diagnostics. Any issue is now multiplied and easier to see.
How far you milled the effector, if you remember? And did you switched wires on E motor for BMG? Cause from what I understand its reverse
Very nice for infills or for parts that don't require detail.
Have you noticed any improvement in layer adhesion and z-tensile strength with the larger nozzles?
I would definitely consider buying one, it's just not what I need right now.
I do think that certain print s can come out really well in thick layers like simple drawers. but for what I'm printing now my .4m v6 is great maybe I'll get a regular .8mm nozzle for larger prints.
You kept referencing the volcano with an .8mm nozzle but the standard v6 also has a .8 nozzle, yes there are many benefits to the volcano with that longer path but some benefits should also apply to the v6.
Can you do a test/comparison with a short .8 to see what benefits stay, will it also ooz less, will it also go so fast your extruder won't keep up? (probably not)
I have a Bowden J head and I am using the little fan as part of the PI loop temperature control . Since my setup is totally homemade and I am learning as I go ahead, I am curious if the heatbreak requires the fan to be allways on or not so I can just use it to control the hotend temperature with it.
I am using my printer to make large flat tool templates for my aviation tool boxes. The norm for many decades was to use two layers of foam board with contrasting colors to show which tools are missing. By using 3d printing technology, the task of templating a box can be done with much less manual labor. The templates can also be divided into smaller sections so that they are modular, and can be changed as tools may be added, removed, or replaced. The templates also maximize the use of storage space. The ability to print these quickly really adds to the value. These are not meant to be ascetically pleasing items, but rather, very functional.
Hi Thomas, I would to test volcano.
Do you have some suggest for speed of print or temperature.
I used to print, with my anet a2, petg 1.75 to 235 degree with 3dv6 0.4 all metal to 40mm/s… 30mm/s for wall and top and base layer and 50mm/s for infill… with this setting I have good result.
is there a way to speed up the time it takes to heat up the heater block? For example if it takes 1 minute, can we reduce t his time to 20 seconds maybe? I have been thinking of putting 2 heating elements in the same block, but want to know if there are better ideas.
Can you post a link to the trinamic stepper motor you recommend to run the extruded?
I like the volcano, the parts are so strong with half the print time for the bigger parts.
I run a 0.8mm nozzle on my e3d V6 and it works great. You must up your temp a bit tho..
What improvements should I make to the Volcano to use it with a 2.8mm nozzle? I'd really appretiate if you answer this question!!
Can you print your regular 3d prints with volcano? or i should switch back to orig 3d each time i need to print something not that big? Or i can just use regular 0.4 nozzle and get same result as if i was using original e3d?
Wow....baby Thomas...ha ha ha....Awesome channel Tom!
I'm thinking of upgrading my hotend to the volcano and use 1/1.2 nozzle, but I do not know if change to 3mm instead keep 1.75. My goal is quick prints from filaments that requires higher temperature. what is your advice?(printing area is 400x400x600 mm)
You said a 3mm extrusion width and .8mm layer height. How exactly do you print a 3mm extrusion width with a. 8mm nozzle. Can this really be done, if so how does it work, or did you mean to say something else. Thanks your videos are great.
The look of that base with those fat layers is very pleasing :)
For the kind of printing I do, the Volcano isn't the right hot end for me. I might go with a 0.6mm nozzle on my v6 though instead of the 0.4.
If using the volcano with 0.4mm nozzle, is there any disadvantage to a normal e3dv6 heater block with 0.4mm nozzle?
So could I use this on my normal 3d printer I have and still have just as good of quality or better?
Because it sounds like this is more a speed thing so I was just wondering will it still print good quality as say the v6 but faster or bc it's faster is the quality less?
And another thing I was looking into buying a volcano now would I also have to buy the v6 to go on this or is it you a universal thing?
Anyone has answers please let me know
Hi Thom,
please when you are talking about some parts include those items in the video, show them if you have them, or put images of them in video later... just enumerating random items is really confusing to us who didn't have previous contact with them... Cheers.
have you tried Flame Resistant Polycarbonate filament with this ??
I have a question i have now a j-head extruder but that One is stille jaming First he print later the pla doesnt go in anymore i thinking to buy a mk8 extruder is that a goed idea the 3d printer that I have is a prusa i3
How feasible is it to build a two-nozzle printer? One large nozzle for in-fill and bulk areas, and one small nozzle for detail.
"Be safe kids" hahahaha!
Hi, what extruder is the best for this hot end .direct ? thanks in advance!
I have one, but im reluctant to use it because even .4mm @ 2.5H looks a bit low detail. I guess there is no way to be sure but to try.
Hello, I am curious if anyone has a recommendation for an extruder setup that uses the v6 hotend. I am researching components for an extruder, but there are a ton of choices out there and I was hoping to get some feedback on which type to consider (bowden, direct, etc). My main concern is that E3D doesn't manufacture complete extruder kits, simply the hotends (which look great, but that means I have to look elsewhere for the motor, mounting block, tensioner, etc). Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
Thomas, does this have any benefit printing at small scales?
How I would fit volcano to the wanhao duplicator i3 plus ?
I was looking at using this with there 0.4mm nozzle with a Bowden setup and create my own mounting solution
just ordered another. I have recently built myself a monster. with a build area of 810x330x300 so I am planning two volcanoes. Let's Print!
Woooooot!!!
Can you review the Pico Hotend by B3 Innovations?
So seeing as this Extruder is made for huge layers, would it be possible to have a dual head setup, each with a different extrusion width so that you can print the main body of an object at high speed with the giant extrusion layers at speed, while having different areas of the same object be printed out at a smaller, higher resolution print for precision?
+Clayton Merritt would love to see an answer to this!! anyone?
+Clayton Merritt Short answer is yes, you can set the infill or supports to print every 4 layers with a .2mm layer height on the .8mm nozzle which would make the print much faster you would need to adjust this to your printer and extruder though. That is with one extruder by the way I am sure you could do the same with 2
Nevermind just reread the post but I am sure you can do it. Lot of smart people doing this.
spread the idea, i always ask this the producers. Someday they will listen ;D
Hey Tom... I know this is a 2-year old review... but had a question... Just getting into this "hobby-cum-mania" and was checking out all the hot-end options. Currently getting my first mini-kossel built and running.
Thinking along the large-volume prints, do you know of any examples of using dual-extrusion heads for doing a combination of "high-rez" and "low-rez" printing per-layer? Kind of a "split the difference" game of using something like 0.2 or 0.4 head for a series of tight 0.1 high layers and then laying in a "fat" 1.0 layer every 10 "thin" layers for the backing-support and in-fill.
Tom, I am looking at making a Delta printer with the best components money can buy. Because my client is going to use it for true prototyping. Where they fit the model to an engine if it doesn't fit or has not enough access for technicians to reach we just redesign with more space and print again. Vehicles are not available for very long so I need ALL the development done in two days. This is a low resolution speed optimised requirement so I will be looking at 1000mm/s and above speeds with head masses as low as possible. This is EXACTLY what I will be looking for. Thank you.
I can't get a straight answer. How is the Volcano with Ninjaflex?
great stuff TOM!!! As usual... I built a MEGA Delta that is 500mm diameter X 1000mm tall build area. The challenges of this build led me through two different operating computers, multiple re-wires due to length and voltage drop, eddy currents from my 900 watt bed heater using alternating 60hz power, structural modifications.... This hot end is quite interesting to me because as I have found the longer it takes to get the print done the more likely there could be something going wrong, (power source issues in particular) The things that matter to me are less resolution than they are layer adhesion, bed adhesion, consistency. One question I would have is related to power consumption. The MEGA is back to an Arduino with Ramps 1.4 and I'm curious if the ramps can handle the needed power for the element. I know there is no actual change in the voltage for the Volcano but is it longer and requiring more amperage thought the on/off cycles? If so do you see any problems with running 200 hour prints?
Whaaat only 50cm x and 100cm tall Mega???
What was that huge printer at the beginning of the video? looked like it was printing a garden bench lol
I would like to try it!
I use a BigRep at work. It's fast, but when you are printing parts the size of furnature with 100% infill, print time becomes a big problem. Especially when a print come off the bed after a week of printing...
Will this fit on a mk8 extruder
I would like slicer software that could utilize a dual extruder 3D printer with a different nozzle size on each so that the large nozzle prints the bulk of the print while the smaller nozzle fills the perimeter / smaller details. That would be awesome!
I want to print a kayak on a 2x2x8 foot printer. Playboats for surfing stading waves
I'm 17 I'm making a 3d printer that builds 17x25 inches that sounds like a fun project
*****
I don't disagree with you. But what are you thinking will be the problems?
Yes but as you double diameter of the nozzle flow increases by a factor of 4. I would have to have HIGH PSI compressed air cooling. enclosed build space.heated bed.
I theorized a 2mx2mx3m or larger one (for a mostly printed car you can get inside), using a filament maker for 5mm filament and 3mm nozzle (mainly because at these sizes the 10x cost increase for filament vs pellets is a problem, and you would need 10kg+ rolls), styrofoam plates for the walls and glass wool for the top and bottom, and floor heating wire embeded in routed wooden flooring, with a 2mm aluminium plate and glass on top for the bed plate, and 200V 2kw peak brushless motors with an encoder for the extruder and axes. (high voltage allows to use rectified 220v AC for the controller and reduce its cost.)
Does it makes sense if I print 0.4?
will the volcano work with a bowden extruder?
I think the Volcano hotend is a great idea. I would get one mainly to speed up queue times for multi-part mechanical assemblies, mainly tube or pipe clamps, where the layer adhesion strength helps. Would thick extrusion widths work for printing RepRap parts? It would be cheaper to produce RepRap part kits to sell or give away to potential RepRap builders.
Yes, Im just printing Delta parts and see no problems. You just need to check your Slicing a bit e.g to not loose walls between thinly spaced holes.
What printer did you test this on?
Hey Thom, You have a video about transparent printing (PETG), does printing with volcano in transparent material improves the transparency? I mean, printing in only one layer (Wall or Top/Bottom) could improve the transparency?
as I know you just need to cool a printed "parts" as quick as possible and not over-heat them (this plastic has the next state with less transparency and some thougher structure).
Question for you Thomas. My mini-Kossel's J-Head kept giving me issues with back-pressure building up in the Bowden tube. It ripped the fittings out of the extruder-side... While I was printing PLA at 205C (the PLA roll was rated between 190 and 210). I'm wondering if using the Volcano with one of the smaller print nozzles (0.4mm) would help eliminate the back pressure? I've tried the E3D Lite6 head with 0.4mm but there's still a bit of back-pressure, even at a very slow (for a kossel) feedrate (
Thanks ***** , I'll see if maybe my sensor's readings are wrong somehow. I'll increase the temperature to a higher level and see if the PLA flows more freely through it. But I still feel that if printing quickly, the Volcano would help as it gives more time for the incoming filament to heat up to the required temperature. I've been looking but can't find any hint one way or another. My printer was sort of abandoned during the summer, when I was outside flying the drones I printed. I came back to it, and haven't changed the filament. I wonder if there was some kind of oxidation that happened that makes the PLA need a higher temperature for printing? I hadn't printed in 6 months before getting back to it.
Would it be possible to use the Volcano on a dual extruder setup with a V6? Maybe have the V6 print the shell and the Volcano print the infill at way lower resolution. I have no idea how you would get your slicer to implement it though, what with the difference in layer height.
WOw very interesting !!!!
I never noticed in other videos, but here it looks like there's a greenscreen. What's happening?
Can you make a Video for Power Supply's?
Hey, I've heard that the Volcano is also suppose to get stronger layer adhesion and produce stronger parts. Did you do any strength tests on your prints to see how much of a difference there is? Thanks for all the great videos :)
***** Ah, ok. Thanks
Can you do a tutorial to put a volcano on the simple metal?
we need a e3d cyclops review :)
Hey ***** Love the channel. Question. I am looking to upgrade my HotEnd and I know E3D is the way to go. I love the idea of a dual extruder but not sure if I would be wasting my money on one of the dual heads. So my question is witch one would you get?
A. a single v6 + Volcano
B. Chimera
C. Cyclops
Thanks
***** I ordered mine yesterday from filastruder. I ordered some .8mm tips for it instead of dual Volcano. It would have been too much for my budget at this time. Also how long do the tips last? I ordered 2 extra .4mm tips just in case.
Thanks Tom, a very good review. You very briefly mentioned fake hotends. Having been recently stung by buying a printer with a counterfeit E3D hotend (they even claimed it was an E3D), can I suggest you do a review on fake vs genuine manufacturers' hotends, what they differences are, why they don't work as well (or do work as well if that's the case), and what to look for. I think it would be very interesting for many to know the truth behind this and may play a part in helping to reduce this type of fraud, or at least make buyers aware of what they're buying. This was my first 3D printer and I'd read and seen on your channel that E3D was a good manufacturer so wanted to buy one of their hotends. I didn't know what to look for so just needed to take the seller at their word when they claimed it was an E3D. I wouldn't like to see others conned as I was.
***** That would be good to see up on TH-cam. I reviewed their "great printer", a Sunhokey, and submitted the review to their site together with one star. I would have given it no stars if that was an option. I needn't have bothered, as they didn't publish the review, and apparently only publish positive reviews. So if any of your viewers are planning on buying a Sunhokey i3 Prusa, I wish them all "good luck!"
Any benefit from the volcano if i'd be running 0.4 or 0.25 nozzle?
Idea is, id have a second extruder with the 1.2mm to do 100% infills.
For the 0.25mm nozzle, the longer heater is likely pointless, but if your printer's mechanics can handle the speed, a 0.4mm Volcano will melt filament much faster than a regular heater block.
what about 2.85mm filament to solve the extruder problem
I got a clone eruption pack from aliexpress for $8. The throat and heatsink were another $4
How was it? Was it worth the price?
actually yes. I recommend using a geared extruder though because it does need a lot of force.
Ok, thanks. No real problems with having bought a clone? (Of course this is greatly a YMMV question.)
Hi, Zak! How is your clone now? I'm guessing that my Tevo Flash has a clone version inside (also not sure). Didn't gave you some clogs?
About the extruder: is Titan OK for it? I'm having doubts with it because it works in two states (in my setup) basically: it bites a filament too deep (so too much retracts starts grinding and then it ruins the whole print); 2nd: it doesn't keep the filamend hard enough... so if it's a bit stuck in the hot end then it just clicks and skip extruding. This leads to under-extrusion obviously.
I hope you'll give me some hints or clues :)
Off topic I know, but is anyone working on a PC interface board to control a 3d printer? Even a break out box to handle heating currents would be a welcome cost compared to using 8 bit boards. Board like duet WiFi and others are great, but still old tech compared to the cpu power of even an old Xbox. I have like 6 old working Xbox 360s and lots of lot Linux boxes that I would love to use as printer controllers. Any info?
5:40 sounds like sir mix a lot
I think a vulcano and a normal nozzle combined and using the vulcano for the infill could be a worth a try.
***** Of course you have to design your own extruder block. Leveling both nozzles is always a problem with dual head printers. A year ago I build a printer where you could lift each nozzle individually. The second version used the e3d heat break. Adding the volcano there would be possible with no changes. Unfortunately I shifted focus away to other projects. But you can see my first results here: th-cam.com/video/x1B9tUmrcrw/w-d-xo.html
It is done by a printer called robox i think. Maker muse channel have a video of that
so weird to see how far this tech has come...