E3D Clones for less than $5?!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2016
- A quick look at how functional $3-4 E3D clones are.
V6 Link:
www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-pr...
V5 Link:
www.aliexpress.com/item/FreeSh...
Timelapse of this Hotend printing Nylon:
• $4 E3D Clone Print Tim... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
That quality level is surprising for $4.
Thanks for the video and the product links!
I just printed my first test cube with an E3D v6 clone, and l am AMAZED!
Excellent video. I really like your style of sharing your knowledge, very valuable. Keep it up, your subscriber base is only going to grow.
Good video, very informative. Thanks!
to polish the insides of a tight hole, a piece of rustic string, with some lapping compound or tooth paste, works wonders. the tighter the fit, the smoother it's gonna be in the end, and then work it like you mean it, oyu want it to get nice and hot! ;^)
Great tip!
I'm actually planning on replacing the heatbreak with a titanium one. Less friction and less heat transfer than a steel heatbreak, also less likely to snap in half during installation.
no video how this clone works?
I was so looking forward to it?
regards
rob.
The reality of it is, these are so close to E3d's because E3d is having them made in China. Their cost is likely a dollar or two, same as the clone sellers.
Now think about that for a second. Even if E3D is spending 5-10$ on a better thermistor and cartridge...... they're charging 70$ over cost for their product. Yes, they must recoup R&D costs, and most will pay a bit more for genuine, but companies have got to realize that the quickest way to get the chinese to rip you off is to overcharge for something they can make cheaply. That's just economics....
Look at Roogi's hyperlite brand drone frames. You see VERY few clones of those, period. Why? because at the price point he set, they can't make a knock off cheap enough that's not a flaming pile of dog crap to get people to really want it!
Just bought one for less than $4,- (including shipping to the EU ;) And some how they still manage to earn some thing. Amazing
Hm, at that price you could buy 4 and mix/match parts for a decent hot end (and have spare parts). Heck have one set up for each filament type/color you use!
how to get a cheapest all metal hot end
1. buy cheapest v6 clone on ebay
2. buy e3d heatbeake from e3d
3. assemble
4.print
i have done it and it works realy good since most clogging issues are due to fillament sticking to heatbrake.
also volcano heating block on e3d site costs 15$ and on ebay 2$ shipping included.
and Micro Swiss heartbreak will make the clone a superior to e3d
i found a e3d v6 clone with volcano clone as well. do they really replicate it? is it equally as good?
good video!
and think you're right (unfortunately for the real fans E3D)
I also use the cheap and it just works well.
you should really inspect the clone by yourself,
but you should also do that by the E3D!!!
(I also have problems with a E3D) afterwards also my own fault, I have not checked the E3D
Kind regards and good luck with printing.
Rob.
Does the height difference matter if you have auto homing on the z?
Is there a version for detect drive systems?
Earned my sub
i have a monoprice mp silect mini 3d printer can i upgrade to a better extuder
I got one, its works fine. Paid 8 dollars from ebay, shipping was free.
Can this print different filaments cuz I have a 3d printer that can only print pla ??????? Help cuz I don’t want to print pla no more
I recently picked up a few of these and it does nothing but skip. Filament doesn't seem to pass through. So I unscrewed the Bowden connection and manually pulled out the filament to see a small piece of the inner Teflon popped out on the tip of the filament and looked like it broke off a larger piece ( it wasn't a clean break) do you think I should try to remove the remainder of the inner tubing and giving it another run?.. The v5 ;clone worked fairly well except the grub screw always comes loose
Are you referring to the thin, 3mm teflon liner inside the heatbreak or the thicker 4mm bowden tube that seats into just the top of the heatbreak?
Is there any reason you couldn't buy one of these and swap out the heatbreak of an official e3d all metal one? I mean $26 or so is still a lot less than $80.
Yep, that is precisely what I recommend people who want to go all metal do.
Nice video
I notice there are printable fan shrouds for an original e3d and for a clone e3d due to differences in heat sink diameter. Which one does this particular v6 hot end need?
This is an identical clone and uses the original style shroud.
I purchased one of the v6 models. The heat break screws further into the heat sink. The narrowed portion almost completely disappears into heat sink. There is a portion of the threaded part, less then a 1/8"exposed. Do you see a problem with this. I ask this as I have seen some heatbreaks that are completely threaded and wonder if these are a problem.
Thanks for the video.
1/8" gap between the heater block and heatsink should work fine however it sounds like they sent you the wrong heat brake. Is this for a bowden tube or direct drive extruder?
Any chance you could make a video on how to put in an E3D into a mini select? I can't seem to find a tutorial on how this is done.
Hey Jason,
I have actually been happy with the stock hot end, however its been a popular request so I might just cave and do the conversion anyways. :-P
+FDM Guru Thanks! Not brave enough to try without seeing how it's done. Many others on the fb group in the same boat. Thanks for your videos.
i bought the direct drive V5 clone and it always prints fine for the first 20ish layers and then the fillament at the feed motor gets so hot it softens up and stops being fed. so i put a cooling fan on it but now it seems like its too cool or something. it prints about 8 horazontal rows and then stops printing for 8 rows and then starts again. and it will consistantly do that for the whole print. is there some kind of magic fan speed to use when cooling these hot ends?
Hey Alex, sorry I missed your question! For all the e3d hotends or clones, you will want the heatsink cooling fan on full all the time. if the motor is overheating, you may need to turn down your stepper driver current.
How does the e3d direct drive v5 work? I am looking at upgrading (or downgrading) my e3d lite6 on my makerfarm.
I used one on my i3v for about a year with no issues.
Great video! Do you know if these use 12v or 24v?
Default is 12, but I believe you can request 24.
assuming you are in the us, what was the shipping time from alibaba? Is there any amazon v6 clone brands you would recommend?
Take s 10-14 days to get to the US. The amazon seller 3D CAM sells a clone of comparable quality:
www.amazon.com/J-head-Filament-Extruder-3D-Printer/dp/B010MSTVZO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1483941055&sr=8-5&keywords=E3D&linkCode=ll1&tag=fg0ea-20&linkId=357d4ff0cef2e89f8b456e032a6093f6
@@FDMGuru What is a cheap and good current seller? Old one is gone. Thank you! Great tutorial!
The link doesnt work
Is there a way to run a 3d printer and let it do a full print without the extruder and hotend running to test out the motors using repetier host? I could not find any info out there on this...
It depends, what printer are you using?
I am using a 101 hero... cheapest printer on the market... I am quite new to 3d printing so am also having some issues understanding the wiring setup on this machine... I notice it has four wires that lead to the hotend... Don't most hotends just have two... black and red? My 101 hero has the black and red and then two more red wires... If you know how to trick it to print without the hotend that would be super awesome ! Thanks so much for responding to my comment!!
All hotends have at least 4 wires; two go to the heater and two go the temperature sensor in the hot end. One quick way to run a print without filament is to unload filament from your hotend than slice your file with the hot end temp set at 0. Now, some firmware might prevent prints from starting if the hot end is under the minimum extrusion temperature, however I don't how the 101 hero is configured. To be honest, the 101 will be difficult printer to learn on due to its very low performance mechanical components. If you have the financial ability, something like the $200 MP Select Mini is an excellent first printer.
Yes... it prevents it from starting if you put the heater at 0... I tried that... I thought it may be a repetier issue but if you printers that will allow it then that means that something in the 101 hero code is blocking the function. Do you know how to write a gcode script work around?
I know that it is a really big ask but could you make a video to explain how the 4 wires connect to the hotend and what they do? I think a lot of people would find this information useful. Am I right in thinking that the red and black wires are for the sensor and the two red ones are to heat up the hotend?
OK, so first of all thanks for your videos! I am brand spanking new to 3D printing and I got a Monoprice Select Mini. I basically tore apart my hotend because after my first print I had broken pieces stuck in it, and it didn't print at all, and when I put it back together again I didn't push up on the bottom. I did that from your other video. Well, wish I had seen this video first, because when I put it back together I didn't screw it in properly, and ended up with plastic all over the inside and outside of the hotend. Needless to say it's a mess, and then I lost one of the nuts that secures it to the heat sink.
So guess the question is simply - is it worth changing hotends? With plastic all inside it, is it likely still serviceable? Can I pick up that nut in a hardware store? Frankly I don't mind spending $100 on something that's better quality than the stock hotend, but since I have no experience with this, not sure how hard it would be to mount. I can solder, but suspect there's more to it than that. Appreciate any thoughts...
Hey Dion,
The stock hot end is actually not bad quality, and produces great prints ( I have spare $100 hot ends sitting in bins and yet I'm still using stock on my Mini ). The missing nut is a square m3 with grubscrew (links below), and while you are at it grab some replacement heat breaks so you don't have to pick plastic out of your existing one. You will be back up and running in no time :)
Hardware:
amzn.to/2izRLNt
amzn.to/2iNYxNN
Heatbreak (threaded upper barrel is perfectly fine BTW):
amzn.to/2iGa1zN
Thank you very much! I found my m3 grubscrew, but I may have stripped it, so I appreciate the link. Do you happen to have links to the heating block and/or thermistor? The machine has difficulty getting past 205, and even at lower temperatures appears to be inconsistent with the filament. The heating block no longer has any tape on it, not sure how much that would have to do with it. I assume I can use an infrared thermometer to test the heating block, and a multimeter to test the 12v current, but not sure of an easy way to test the thermistor. Thanks again for the videos and links. You've made me way less frustrated. :)
The thermistor will produce a printer error or simply 0C if damaged so you don't need to worry there. Likewise, the heater cartridge is just a big resistor so if it still heats up you are probably fine. However, the lack of insulation while not a problem per say, can throw of the temperature PID loop. You can get more insulation (link below) or you can run some gcode to have the controller run an autotune sequence.
Replacement Fiberglass Insulation:
amzn.to/2iDE0gJ
Instructions to setup interface for running direct gcode commands
mpselectmini.com/cura_pronterface
Instructions for running Autotune gcode:
mpselectmini.com/pid_autotune
Finally, a massive and comprehensive Select Mini resource document:
docs.google.com/document/d/1HJaLIcUD4oiIUYu6In7Bxf7WxAOiT3n48RvOe5pvSHk
You, sir, are a great man. I followed your instructions and right now it is looking very good. I clearly have many things to learn, but I really appreciate the help. Although I'm relatively technical literate on the software side, hardware has always been a bit of a black box. I got the MP Select Mini to get smarter, and I'm glad I found your videos... Keep making - I'm watching and learning :)
Timelapse of this Hotend printing Nylon:
th-cam.com/video/DDmMOz2zkMw/w-d-xo.html
+fdm guru is this a drop in replacement (size wise) for a v6. I have a bracket for a v6 already printed out. I am just waiting for this clone to arrive.
Yes it is.
+FDM Guru awesome thanks for the quick response
I actually ordered one from an American reseller last night, I also ordered an all metal heat break from amazon. Im concerned though, I don't know much about my 3d printer. I hear people saying they use them on Prusa's, but I don't know if I have an actual prusa or a prusa clone or just a different model prusa than most people talk about. Its a Prusa I3, however its an Adimlab Gantry Prusa I3, it says its 24v in the in info on amazon where I ordered it. The hotend is 12v, Ive read its not good to use 12v in a 24v and vice versa, but im curious if they are saying im 24v, basing it off the bed as well 12, to the hotend, 12v to the heated bed. Anyone know if Ill have any problems installing this hotend in my printer? Or settings I need to change?
i dont mean to be rude, but seriously:
1.educate yourself on basics of electric circuits
2. do not connect a heater cartridge to power before step1
Where is the v7?
The thing is today its easy to make a dimentional acurate replica cheap. but Aluminium is not just Aluminium, Steel is not just steel, there are different grades, softness, corrosion resistant, temperature stability. youy pay a lot more for the good stuff that will last and perform better under high temp conditions. its up to you. I ALWAYS NEVER cheap out.
I didn't heat my hotend when assembling it and no mess after dozens of prints. I don't know how necessary that is, it's kind of dangerous. I would do it only if you aren't me. I have gorilla strength grip.
The hard part was leveling dual hotends. There's no adjuster so I just had to get identical parts and use calipers with my gorilla strength. Tom S. says it's needed but time will tell how arbitrary the practice might be for this specific hotend.
I guess the main reason is that I didn't force the copper- and the current ones are titanium so it's near impossible to damage them. Weird because the coppers never had a problem and I didn't heat. Only thing that went wrong was my fan lost RPMs and it caused clogs.
whats the maximum temp? i want to print Nyilon
Joaquin ??? Same ?
As usual, with cheaper manufacturers the real cuts are in quality control. High end manufacturers inspect a higher percentage of product up to 100%. If you buy cheap you are the QA department. Sometimes you may have to buy 5 copies to find one that is acceptable. You pay for confidence.
I'll sell you one for $4, will it work? Idk ask china
Actually the way Chinese sellers service warranty - if and when they do, they may not be terribly compelled to do so unless the quality is quite consistent in the first place - is not by having you ship the item back to them, they don't need broken crap that was a dollar or two to begin with and basically isn't subject to repair. They just ask you to give photo or video evidence of the issue per e-mail, they check it for uniqueness, and you get to keep the bad one too and the replacement is on its way. Some Chinese sellers of expensive electronics offer returns to a local partner company instead of all the way back.
Sometimes it's Western, even "reputable" companies trying their best to inconvenience you with return shipment and shipping costs and undue wait and then determining on their own that it's not their fault that the item broke in use and they're gonna charge you an extra processing fee or repair fee even if it's higher than the price of the product. And what they might do next is try to sell the bad item again and again until somebody no longer can be bothered with returns. I don't mean E3D in particular, i'm sure they are great guys and would never pull crap like this, but this happens elsewhere, had this happen to me, seen this happen numerous times.
the thing is a junk of metal..... how hard can that be to clone?.... for less than $5 who needs or expects a warranty?.... they work fine.... end of story!
I seen where e3d said that they sold there design to china so it is the same thing.
I'd rather buy 20 of these for $80 before I pay $80 for ONE that is actually so close to the same that it almost doesn't matter and then I can just replace it if it has a problem
Even with all the benefits of warranty and support etc, these hot ends are just not worth the asking price of $80. $40 is probably more reasonable, considering the raw material costs.
14 minutos explicando nada
Yess Surprisinngly Cheap.. Still It is functional with a small amount of TLC..
But the other side of the arguement is Why? are the Brit ones so Silly overpriced??
UK product is Always Seriously aggressively priced. It's a poor choice country to do business in as the larger part of the answer.
please stop saying uuummmmmm uuummmmm
if they work who gives a S""T
Well that may be true from a buyers perspective but that is the reason the USA economy has tanked! If the USA manufacturers who spend all the time and research creating the best products get undercut by all the other comps who just copy them without having to worry about any of the other costs like paying their employees proper wages and benefits etc... then people can't get upset and say the job market sucks. The job market sucks because everyone is buying the cheaper product out there and then the good companies go out of business and all the work is made in other countries. So before you say who gives a beep about stuff think about the ramification that each action leads to... Yes you get a cheap part that works but hey you are sticking it to your fellow American who now probably has to work for less money if he works for the original E3d manufacturing company in the USA. Now if everyone paid a little bit more for the original products made in the USA then you would see a good improvement in the job market too.
Nice rant but E3D is an English company, not American?
I lived in England for a while so my comment still stands. This will hurt the English economy too. The problem that is happening in the USA is also happening in Europe so using local products is always a better idea. Having said that I have nothing against good Asian products! I drive a Toyota and I bought a 101 hero because no USA company makes anything like it. What I don't like is getting something that undercuts the market and does not help my local community.
Hey it's no better here in Australia either. But lets face it, the reality is 3D printing as a hobby would not be as active as it is now if it were not for the Asian sourced bits being so low in cost.
As a community we need to inspire people to get creative and find better ways to support our own economies without buying things the lazy way.
recorded with a $5 china microphone .... me ears!
Not very articulate.
Thing is, these have terrible Machining and like to clog
U should check out Trianglelab in gral, the quality is AAA