UPGRADE your CR-10 with an E3D VOLCANO hotend || Print with 1.2mm nozzles!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ต.ค. 2017
- I show you a simple way, how you can upgrade your Creality CR-10 with an E3D Volcano hotend, which doesn't require soldering or modifying the firmware!
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Buy a VOLCANO hotend directly from E3D:
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www.thingiverse.com/thing:260...
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Thank you for being honest about the frustrations of making modifications. Many people act like everything is a piece of cake. When the viewers attempt the modifications from those videos they realize the videos left out the incompatibilities and updates and all the real work. Good job.
I get amazed at the stream of material coming out my nozzle regularly.
I had a similar problem with a bed cable. Thanks for your solution. It helped me.
E3D-V6 throat has M6 thread on one side and M7 on the other; however E3D-V5 throat has M6 threads on both sides. And it has an actual thermal break as opposed to MK8 throat that you get on the China printer.
Another good video.
I flashed my firmware and fitted a titan aero to myh CR-10. It was a LOT better after that.
Since then I've gone a bit mod crazy. Min now has a 240v keenovo bed, a MKS Gen 1.4 motherboard with TMC2100 drivers on X,Y and E, DRV8825 on Z at 32 microstepps, it has the Titan aero and a meanwell 24v psu. It's putting out prints with a normal E3D hotend and 0.6 nozzle that look better than anything I've ever printed! It also heats up and starts printing at 70 bed and 260 hotend in only a couple of minutes. The Mic6 tool-plate bed and silicone heater with PEI stuck on top is also very flat and lighter than the standard bed and glass.
I fitted all of the above to a 5mm board that I slid into the extrusion and I've bought some more V rail to make a little enclosure under the printer. No more annoying control box at the side!
A genuine volcano is the next mod.
Love your videos. Keep up the good work!
At this point, you're basically just running a custom i3 printer.
WOOHOO you did my suggestion of trying the 1.2 nozzle. Thank you.
+The Best Stooge You asked for it, you got it 😉
Sure is awesome seeing it just chew through a reel of that filament, lol. Thanks again.
The CR10s comes with a spare heater block with chiller and the nozzle. If you want to install it you need to install hot swap theminals on your cr10s wiring. So the vulcano cartidge style thermistor would be installed in a matter of seconds.
Hey can you make a video about effects of nozzle geometry. Some nozzles have pointy tip and some of them are flat. Which one is better?
Pointy is scary
I do kinda similar thing on thermistors, I use bicycle brake cable ferrule which is aluminium and have exactly 3mm OD so it fit the hole perfectly(there are many type of this thing so some might not work) I wrap kapton tape only on the thermistor wires, insert it in and slightly crimp it in the middle so it won't get loose, don't crimp too hard or you won't be able to insert it in heaterblock.
Watching this a crazy 3 years later noticing we are so far more advanced not only when this video was made but now, can only imagine what we will have in 2025. Thanks everyone here for making the future we imagined (not dystopian) possible. But also from the future to 2017 people 2020 should be skipped. Thanks guys, lets build the future.
Thank you so much for this video.
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Excellent content! Please, keep it up! :)
Excellent work again. I'm very much looking forward to the firmware flashing. Just to be able to store settings on the eprom would make the CR-10 so much more valuable to me. Unless this feature is not related to the currently installed firmware of course. Anyways - great series! Maybe Creality watches your video and produces a big-prints-fast version of the CR-10 or an upgrade kit. Cheers! JM
Hey, great video! So would you be able to tell me, is the heatbreak fromthe cr10 compatible with the volcano?
To clarify, you said the e3d heatbreak does not fit the cr10 heatsink, correct?
Thanks so much Stephan. Love your videos
Nice video!
Any estimate as to how long would it take the CR-10 to print the 3DBenchy with and without this upgrade?
I will try it, thx!
Thank you for the great videos. Do you have recommendations for printing PA12 ?
Bed temp , nozzle temp and slicing.
I think the 1.2mm nozzle is even bigger than the LulzBot Moarstruder which James at XRobots uses for most of his prints. There's something really satisfying about watching the extrusion of filament, especially with a larger sized nozzle diameters. I recently saw a clip on the 3D Printing Industry website which showed a cement 3D printer with a nozzle diameter of well over a centimetre and it was elegant to watch!
Hi cnc kitchen, great video! Would this procedure work with a wanhao i3?
Hello Stefan, did you used regular termistor from cr-10 ??
What kinds of settings did you change in your slicer to accommodate the larger size nozzle? I assume that changing the nozzle size alone in the program will not be sufficient. I am using Simplify 3d
You didn't show a range of successful non-vase mode prints, just a partial vase with drooping layers. Did you ever get this pumping out standard prints and can you show them, your mods, and your settings please 🙏?
something about how welcome to cnc kitchen is said just makes me feel like we're talking about food
I mean maybe it's because the word kitchen is used to describe a room used to prepare food and not usually 3d printers
Would it work if you just cranked up the temperature? That should heat the filament faster
Have you done a strength test video with different nozzle diameters? I'd like to see that, along with the Volcano.
This is a very informative video. However I am tentative about making the upgrade for a couple of reason.
I do not know what fan shrouds and mounts to pre print
What print settings to use after the upgrade
I feel like if I do the upgrade I might end up with a machine that no longer works
I also am considering a supervolcano upgrade but there seems to be even less info about this upgrade
Have you thought about doing a start to finish upgrade for the CR10?
I love wolcano's!
Oof so much trouble. I’d just switch to a E3D heatsink and all :p
any way we can see your slicer settings for the E3d volcano 1.2mm nozzle? it would be of big help to me.
Hello, I tried this nozzle and I'm not very happy about this experiment. My experience is that you need to go down with the speed to 8mm/s. What are your speeds? Can you share your settings?
Wait so you put temperature resistant tape around a thermistor?
hi,great. I upgraded my cr-10 with duetwifi, first test works very smooth and very silence and could speed up to 200mm/sec with good print, but more than 200mm,the hotend is to weak. with duet I could go up to 300mm/sec but to less extrusion. so for very fast printing I need a Vulcano Hotend like you.
any issues using a smooth heatsink with a threaded heatbreak?
讲得太好了
Could you use a pt100 thermocouple instead the thermistor to get higher temperatures.
Could you please share your printer profiles for the volcano? would be nice to use as a starting point.
Hi Stefan, could you please help me setting up a bowden machine with 0.8 nozzle? I cannot beat the retractions settings ( Simplify and Cura ) maybe you can share any standard place to start? at this point I am at 4.00mm and 120mm/s , thanks in advance! my two problems are gap betwen perimeter and top layers, and pimps. thanks alot
Wenn Du die Firmware güstig selber Programmieren möchtest, kannst du einen Bootloader mit einem billigen Arduino Clone flashen. Die Anleitung dazu findest Du auf Arduino.cc und in der Software. Suche in den Besipielen "ArduinoISP" .
Ich habe so meine selbstgebauten Controller auch mit dem originalen Bootloader programmiert. Ein paar Jumperwires und ein Arduino Uno reichen da schon aus.
Greetings could you please provide a link or the name of manufacturer on your thermometer thank you
Although the 2 thermistors are different, you can still splice the e3d one into the cr10 harness and it works just fine. been printing for a few weeks like this.
Improper Engineering so for proper clarification, cut the old thermistor off and solder the e3d one on the two remaining poles? Any orientation?
That still won't need any software flashes?
Reason for asking is I've got the cr10 5s on route and want to install the volcano to use the 500x500x500 a little more time efficient since it will be used for prototypes and not for detailed works.
Also have you tried the 1.2 mm? What settings are you using?
I heard using 1.5mm width with 1mm layer height and a feed of 30mm/s and 235 degrees works very well?
Would make a print 10 ish times faster correct?
nope, it works just fine that way! i have not gone over .6 but i would think at that height you'd want to print a lot slower than you would at a .4 because that's a lot of plastic to push out
callardo1 hi how is this setup working for you? I can not go fastrr then 20mm/s with my .8mm nozzl. I have Cr 10 5s too.
5:30 What CAD system are you using here? I used to use SolidWorks but have mostly switched to Onshape. Great video by the way. I wondered why my CR-10 didn't print well with larger nozzles.
Phillip Toone it's Fusion 360. Very user friendly and comprehensive piece of software with cloud synchronization - and most importantly free for hobbyists
Whats the music at the start of your video called mate
Good method, only issue is the heater block keeps coming loose from the stock heat sink 😭 leaves no choice but to make the full upgrade
is it possible to put a volcano on the micro swiss hot end?
How many grams of pla per minute can you print with this hot end and a 1.2mm nozzle?
Just put on the eeprom save in marlin for the save. Beware though that if you use auto calibrate and do a bed calibration, you need to reset eeprom even if you add a new marlin as it wont read marlin until you reset. This is a huge issue if you switch nozzle as it may crash to a negative value, ie below bed level even if your marlin height was correct
Can I use it on my mini fabricator
OK. stuff looks like that. I could not make cold pull
Because I had 1 mm space between nozzle and throat
This was shocking after knowing how much attention I put in to screwing all together as tight I can
How this could happen? Metal can not shrinks so much because temperature
Did You meet same problem?
How I can prevent this?
doppelte Daumen hoch für dieses Video!
eine für die klare Erklärung und eine für die fehlende Verbindung des Vulkans! Ich folge dir mit Untertiteln und bei 0,75 Geschwindigkeit, aber du fährst weiter (ich bin Italiener)
Double thumbs up for this video!
one for the clear explanation and one for the lack of connection of the volcano! I follow you with subtitles and at 0.75 speed but you continue this way (I'm Italian)
Can you share what speeds you managed to achieve with the 1.2mm nozzle? I have been printing with a 1mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height. With the original creality hot end I could get very nice prints at 20mm/s max speed in Simplify3D. With the E3D volcano upgrade I am only able to print at the same speed, 20mm/s, before the quality starts to degrade due to skipping. I thought I would see some improvement in print speed?
Hello, I have the same experience. With 1.2mm nozzle I need to go down with the speed to 8mm/s. The overall print time is the same as if I used stock setup.
Any 3d printable fan mount for this?
Are you going to get the prusa i3 mk3 after it comes out?
I would get one!
+joonaskali I will probably not buy one, just because the MK2 already works very well. I will at least upgrade mine to the MK2s soon. If I get a MK3 somehow then I would happily take it.
Aah ok i placed my order already.
interesting that you are putting a titan aero on that printer with a volcano, i just bought one and can't help to wonder if the last time i watched this it stuck with me and influenced my choice. good influence though :D i bought mine used and it had everything on it already, the mount has the titan on the left, the stepper motor on the right, i'd like to add a part cooling fan, not sure i even need it, but it doesn't seem possible to mount unless i reconfigure the wiring. i think it would help with my first layer at higher speeds, currently 3000mm/min (50mm/s) and first layer is 20% (10mm/s)
Like in Urbicum printers lol
Anyway that volcano idea should work fine with smaller diameters as well
Stephan
I must inform You that I just perform successful "cold pull" at my volcano :):):):)
I did this with PLA at 90*C and my BMG extruder movement
By printer menu
im printing with a 1,2mm nozzle on my standard v6 hotend.... petg... I just had to slow my print speed to 15mm/s and up my temp to between 245 and 250
When I updated my CR10 to E3D Titan plus E3Dv6 plus Volcano I also installed a 40W heater cartridge. Not sure whether it is really needed, but more wattage is always good ;-). At least the power supply is okay with the additional 10W.
I used the Titan / Volcano Mount from Thingiverse (www.thingiverse.com/thing:2214530), unfortunately the part cooling fan mount is not really useful (the fan always falls down in longer prints), thus I'll have to fix this sometime. As long as I print with PETG this is anyway no issue ;-).
I have cr10 s5 with a Volcano and a 0.8 nozzle, what speeds are appropriate for this setup?
Did you get yours working well? what settings?
@@marcusone1 No, Im still trying to figure out a thermal runway problem..
Hi Stephan, very useful video - and the previous one printing with the larger nozzle and the original hot end. I am equally impatient and trying to get my CR10 S5 to print faster with a 1mm nozzle. I tried changing the acceleration settings using the start scripts in SIMPLIFY3D but am still having some issues in the corners above 40mm/s. Can you share one of your factory files so I can try and reproduce your settings? Going to try lowering jerk to slow things down more into and out of the corners.
Send me a mail and I'll get you my settings, though the quality is not the best. What helped me was the addition of a direct extruder and a current version of Marlin with linear advance.
CNC Kitchen Thanks. I could not find your email address anywhere but we have ordered the upgraded hot end so will try that.
Hello, could you share your setting, please? I have a terrible time setting my printer up. I didn't change any setting comparing to the standard 0.4mm nozzle setup apart from layer height and speed. With 1.2 mm nozzle I have to go down with the speed to 8mm/s! Which makes the modification useless because prints take the same time as if I used stock hotend.
Hello Stefan, love your channel, you are doing a great job! could you share your setting, please? I have a terrible time setting my printer up. I didn't change any setting comparing to the standard 0.4mm nozzle setup apart from layer height and speed. With 1.2 mm nozzle I have to go down with the speed to 8mm/s! Which makes the modification useless because prints take the same time as if I used stock hotend.
Can i upgrade my anycubic chiron to volcano nozzle?
... Although flashing the firmware is the ideal route for the CR-10, PID tuning beforehand is far from "pointless"ーyou can simply run a PID autotune, then add a few lines to your starting GCode in your slicer to have them set prior to every print.
I like your videos a lot, but I must say, this one fell very short on actionable information for those looking to convert to an E3D Volcano and have quality prints afterward.
Hi Stephan
How to make cold pull at volcano ?
Anyways how You do it?
That's going to be a challenge with the long nozzle. Didn't succeed with one yet.
@@CNCKitchendo You mean cold pull or 1 mm gap??
i have printed with a .8 and 1mm nozzle on my stock hotend without any problems. but i still want a volcano
I have a question which is better The Swiss Hotend or the E3D Volcano Hotend ?
They have different purposes. The volcano is for handling large amounts of material, whereas the Micro Swiss hotend is just a high quality replacement for the normal CR-10 one. If you want to work with bigger nozzles, the Volcano is probably better, if you want to stick with the 0.4mm nozzles, the Micro Swiss might be better. Gotta say, that I haven't worked with Micro Swiss myself, so I can't really judge the quality.
many thanks , Danke schön :) you are the best
Did you notice more stringing?
So what's a decent cheap modeling / cad program? I haven't found one yet.
Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists!
Tinkercad is another free program.
You can get still get volcano blocks which use old style thermistors -- I like the cartridge style more, but if you want an easy drop in, that's probably less fiddly.
+kazolar They unfortunately were sold out when I purchased mine.
+CNC Kitchen, From my experience -- a clone block is perfectly fine, and I haven't seen them clone the cartridge style version yet. So, you can always get a clone block, but use authentic nozzles, or better yet get a hardened or a plated nozzle. The heater blocks are just machined aluminum, nothing special about them. The problem though is that I don't think the silicone socks would fit on the old style blocks. I'll try it out, I have a bunch of spares. One thing is, be careful about with volcano blocks is that the heater cartridge wires don't make contact with the block -- the vertical design make it easy for them to short.
Thats where china clones are a viable alternative. They usually still use the old style thermistors.
Quality-wise the heater block does not make much of a difference anyway, since it does not come into contact with the filament. It is just a simple block that has to conduct heat from the heater cartridge to the nozzle. As long as the chineese use aluminium for this part, there is not much they could get wrong.
It's the nozzles and the heatbreaks where E3D is worlds ahead in terms of quality, and buying these things as original parts is well worth the money.
But for the heater blocks and the heatsink you won't notice any difference between original and knockoff.
Hannes Größlinger I would recommend buying the real E3D product. Their pricing is not unreasonable, and they are developing excellent designs. I support them by spending a little extra on the genuine product.
If you have a kracked PEI sheet, fill it up with gluestick, it works.
Get a CR-10s for $440.99 with the code "GBsale127" : goo.gl/9WPzYo
Get a CR-10 for $396.99 with the code "GBsale128" : goo.gl/hrBFYy
Get a JGAURORA A5 for $335.99 with the code "GBsale129" : goo.gl/2UnFpu
as a note, the Creality heater cartridge is more powerfull 40watt and the one shipped with E3d Volcano is only 30watt. it actually says on it. I use the creality one in my Volcano and it warms up fast and stays hot even with the blowerfan on. it stayed at 212 on my 1.2 nozzle 0.8 layer heights and 120mm/s speed the filliment was flying through it! haha I also dont have a silicone sock yet but will get one.
How we can use the creality heater cartridge on volcano? Is there any set-up as you know?
@@MMK-342 as far as I remember it’s the same size diameter. The only difference is on the Volcano the cartridge hole goes vertical alongside the nozzle instead of sideways. But yeah the same size. For whatever reason the creality says 40w on it. So I just kept that. The thermometer is different though, gotta use the one supplied with the volcano. The hardest part of upgrading was editing the firmware. Maybe it was harder for me as I upgraded to a hemera extruder at the same time.
@@BLACKSYNTH Thank you for your answer. I was looking for thermometer setup but I couldnt find any for me. So I put the old thermistor for volcano with different kind of edit. Now the leveling bed with Volcano its my new problem.
what the max temp can volcano do ?
With the standard setup 300°C, though there is also a high temp version available afaik.
Do you know if it can be put in ender 3?
Probably yes since the hotend should be the same but don't quote me on that.
Creality now have source released
3 times bigger diameter and 3 time higher layer height is 27time higher volume flow, and not 9 :D (given the same travel speed).
I know it was just an uncorrected mistake :)
I would love to see a movie how you do it or solved it - instead of a slideshow. Its very very hard to understand what was your problem and what your solution, if you are not a electronic freek or a 3d freek. So its useless even if i had the need to get a solution to use hotter filament! So i have to search for other tutorials.
I will try to make the steps better to follow in the next video!
The problem was: Printing is slow!
The solution was: Use a larger nozzle!
I think everything was very clear. Problem and fix were explained and worked out quite well. Hell I thought that you over-explained it all. This is not a complaint but it was way more information than was needed. Can't please everyone I suppose =)
I did this mod to my CR-10, installing a Volcano with a .6mm nozzle and the prints look terrible. I've been doing some experimentation to improve it, but surely someone has already calibrated the CR-10? I have another bowden 3D printer with a Volcano and .4mm, .6mm and .8mm nozzles, and the prints look waaaayyy better. Its got to be the settings somehow.
Hello Michael, I did this mod to my cr 10s too. My experience is that you need to go down with the print speed. Which make this mod useless because the print time is exactly the same as if you use stock hotend. Can you share your speeds for different nozzles? I'm trying to figure it out myself.
...buuut did you actually raise the temp with increased speed? You cant use same... i use a regular v6 up to 100 mm/s. There is curves for that. Many channels dont so it is just to highligt that increased speed require temp adjustment.
Hello, I did this modification to my CR 10 s5 and can't see any difference in print time. I was trying everything and every nozzle that came with the pack. For example with 1.2 mm nozzle, I need to go down with the print speed to 8 mm/s. For 0.6 mm nozzle the speed must go down to 15 mm/s, otherways the prints are severely under extruder. With these speeds, the prints take almost exactly like the ones with the stock setup and equivalent amount of perimeters. CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE! Is it possible to print faster and I'm not talking about vase mode.
Did you ever increase the temperature?
CNC Kitchen I print PLA with 220 digress. Should I go higher? With 0.8 mm nozzle I can’t do faster than 15mm/s. Is this normal?
@@jankochanski there can also be another problem, a common glitch one on the creality printers. Check that your teflon tube is actually all the way down to the top part of the nozzle. (inside the hotend) It sometimes moves up a few millimetres, creating a nice big blob of plastic sitting there at all times. Sure the hotend melts it, kinda, but it will constantly be jamming up up your printer slightly, slowing everything down / creating inconsistencies. To fix it is quite easy, once you know about the problem.
Also, please do share this bit with us, is your volcano hotend from E3D or a clone/bought somewhere else? No shame if it is a cheap one really, but this detail will help a lot troubleshooting.
Please post e3d Titan video!
Working on it ;-)
Hallo Stephan, bringst du das Video auch auf Deutsch? Wäre toll!
Sorry, vielleicht gibt's mal Untertitel, aber alles auf Deutsch zu machen ist leider zu viel Aufwand.
Wie wärs denn auf Deutsch mit englischen Untertiteln? Ich spreche Englisch zwar fleißend, aber langsam nervt es mich, dass es kaum noch Beiträge in meiner Muttersprache auf YT zu sehen gibt, weil jeder meint, seine "tollen" Englisch-Skills unter Beweis stellen zu müssen. In Europa gibt es über 100 Mio. deutsche Muttersprachler. Ich denke, das birgt genug Potential für viele Klicks. Gerade die Deutschen haben das "Problem", dass ein großer Teil Russisch als 2. Fremdsprache gelernt hat.
Stimme ich 100% zu. Es nervt echt ein bisschen, dass man egal was man sucht, es in englisch suchen muss. Ich mein klar bleibt es jedem überlassen wie er seinen Kanal führt. Nur ich finde es eigentlich schlimm, dass man aus dem Land der Technik, kaum noch deutscher Content kommt, obwohl in vieeeelen Ländern Deutsch in der Schule gelehrt wird, und es so für Ausländer absolut möglich wäre, einem Deutschen Kanal zu folgen.
Naja, von den 100 Mio. ist mit Sicherheit nur ein ganz kleiner Prozentsatz 3D Druck affin. Es ist nun mal so, das bei technischen Inhalten (Content;-)) englisch die vorherrschende Sprache ist. Ist doch auch eine gute Möglichkeit sein englisch ein wenig auf zu polieren.
Seine Reichweite ist in jedem Fall deutlich größer, so er in englisch "referiert".
Aber ich verstehe was ihr meint.
Thank you for sharing the content in English Stefan. I know how much effort you put into these videos. It is always a pleasure to watch your videos hopefully you will continue to produce more contents for us.
The 1.2 mm nozzle actually puts out roughly 27 times as much material with 3x the layer height!
It’s 3 times as wide in each direction, and with 3 times thicker layers
So 3x3x3 = 27
I also thought that at first (that's also why the audio sounds a little different in the section, where I explain that) BUT that's actually not right. So the line of molten material that is extruded is 3x wider and 3x thicker (=x9). The speed at which is printed stays the same, so you don't gain any there and in the end you "only" have 9x more material flow.
You should bring back this hair
Would have just replaced the entire hotend
1:39 i dont see how they can manage to screw it up honestly, if i had a mini mill at home i could make one of those pretty quickly.
9fache menge an Filament? deine Düse ist kein 1dimensionales Objekt, die verdreifachung des Durchmessers bedeutet weit aus mehr als nur eine 3mal so große Öffnung.
eine 0,4er Düse hat einen Flächenquerschnitt von 0,126
eine 1,2er Düse hat einen Flächenquerschnitt von 1,131
Also hast du schon die 11fache theoretisch mögliche Durchflussmenge ;)
ob man bei 3facher Layerhöhe linear von nochmaliger verdreifachung des Materialdurchsatzes ausgehen kann, ist eine Frage aus den materialwissenschaften, ich bin leider nur dummer Realschüler - aber der Wert wäre dann eine 33 statt deiner 9 - wenn man es so linear ableiten möge wie du es getan hast ;)
Da liegst du leider falsch (ich jedoch auch zuerst). Es geht hier nicht um den Flächenquerschnitt. Deine gedruckte Bahn wird durch die Düse 3x breiter und die Schicht wird 3x höher. Wenn die Druckgeschwindigkeit gleich bleibt wird also in der selben Zeit nur 9x so viel Filament extrudiert.
Dem würde ich (nur soweit) widersprechen, dass man mit dieser Düse sehr wohl deutlich mehr als nur 3mal so viel Filament fördern kann. Was davon dann wo und wie auf dem Druckbett landet ist, wie angedeutet, nochmal ein anderes Thema ;)
Bei sehr hoher Druckgeschwindigkeit und Förderrate bin ich mir da dann aber auch praktisch sicher, dass man mehr als 3mal so viel extrudiert bekommt (bei werten wo manmit 0,4er düse längst lücken im Material hat weil das hotend nicht mithalten kann)
Very good video. Like and +1 subscribe! Thanks
Machst du auch deutsche Videos.
the is too many call to action in the end
Interesting that you said ‘bucks’ for British pounds when you are German. Kind of confusing
you essentially insulated your thermistor... not such a great solution
If you compact the aluminum foil, it conducts the heat very well.
Anything bigger than .8mm is dumb idea. The issues out weigh the benefits.
So young
I am still working on the app bro i have not forgotten :P feel free to follow me on twitter @milesbscott
"A simple way..." 🤭 Didn't look simple to me.
Let me wrap Kapton tape around my fail safe device a tape that insulates against heat !! The only thing that thermistor should touch is heat conducting paste when it does not fit in a hole that is made for another thermistor, in the real commercial world what you are doing would fail quality assurance, ideally you should replace the thermistor with the correct sized one for the hole diameter you are using it in, failing that use heat conductive paste so that the thermistor will receive the correct temperature from the hotend as without that it will not be correctly monitoring that. its basically guessing....
Additionally you should not really wrap a tape that is a electrically conductive polyimide film around the wires that carry a current and are in pairs , you run the risk of the actual tape making an electrical circuit which in this case you do not want.
These are a fail safe device and by altering its makeup you run the risk of the device not working or failing in a non safe way. Your videos are very informative and well produced but in this case I feel that you should make some sort of alteration to this one.
The Thermistor is there to protect the device and your house/shop/warehouse in the event of a failure. I know what you are doing are minor alterations but people need to understand the process of a thermistor and its ramifications if you alter the safety specification of what it was designed to do.. Thanks and keep up the good work.
just switch to klipper then you can cut wires and solder. klipper supports the original thermistor ...GT2 or something
I know adaptation is key in diy electronics, but I couldn’t help but cringe when you installed the thermistor. Good video though.
You just ruined your CR10. I feel it was a downgrade instead of upgrade. Your benchy looks much much worse than what stock CR10 setup can print. The stock setup could print perfect benchy with very smooth surface and zero stringing.
stock cr-10's differ to much to say they are all good quality. But I agree mine is just fine calibrates and has way better prints, I would not accept a result like shown here. I would think something is wrong.
He described an _option_ to print faster.
Makes sense for large prototypes.
But... he has nine benchies, and you only have one...
More trouble than it's worth...
Don´t buy from e3d, Poor quality. 2 week´s my cabel broke. the first cabel was broken then i got the V6 All Metal... Just bad service, no new cabel.. Don´t wast your money