All you can do is keep trying different adjustments until you find the perfect spot, then you weld the hell out of it. Gotta love your attitude in keeping your used equipment running. Keep moving forward sue
You will be an expert on hay bines and balers you have so much knowledge of your machines. Reckon the drag on the twine is a big part of your problem with the Knotters . John deere or New Holland should sponsor you. Great video again .
Suz - had bad knotter problems a few weeks back. Nephew suggested changing from 130# to 170# knot strength twine. He bales mostly rounds but has put up 9600 squares so far this year with almost zero misses. I changed to us 170# twine and haven't missed a knot since. Didn't cost me anything as I stole my twine from him but it is CNH twine from the dealer. He pays the extra because he can't afford misses. And the knotters need to be a little loose. Your pinned one has too much wear so that needs a fix. Nephew noticed my problem knotter was the one that had a bolt in that was tight. The other one, which hadn't been a problem, had a lock nut allowing a little play. If you haven't already done it, it is worth downloading the NH knotter service manual. One set of your twine discs are way out of time. I wish I had your luck finding your baler at that price. I paid $4,000 for a used 315.
Suze, I recommend watching that video someone posted below. If you go to settings you can watch it at .25 normal speed. It shows the disc slots both wide open for the twine as the knotter performs in slomo.
@@This1LifeWeLive I found a nail-on porcelain fence insulator inside a tree once, with my chain saw. Seems some farmers didn't feel like setting posts, so they used any trees growing in the general vicinity.
Suzanne, If you pull up on the trip arm, it will do the knot. You don't have to turn the wheel. The guides with the grooves, loosen them and turn them 90 degrees. When was the last time you greased the knotter? Did you possibly miss and grease fittings? Have you tried different string? There are different sizes available. It can make a difference. Make sure needles are equal and not bent. Best wishes, Kevin
we average under 1,000 bales per use, and I always grease everything before each use. I've tried every type of twine. We had a lot of issues since we bought it,a nd once we switched to the blue twine things went much better. I forgot the trip arm will move with no hay in th chamber, lol!
You might get something out of this. www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=1596413 Do yo have a neighbor that has had one for years? Experience is king!
Need to look at the wear on the pins/bolts. Also the wear on the holding bracket. Since it's been allowed to more freely it will cause more wear. Nothing to stop you from replacing the holding bracket, or welding a harden washer to the bracket. Are bolts tighten to the point of preventing movement or allowed to move freely? If it holds it tight, I'd go with the bolt system. Not sure how much play the knotter needs. I just ran a baler for a couple years, not repaired them. I would retime bout sides.
Very good Suzanne, you're taking it slow, deliberate, looks good so far, hopefully that new cutterbar will get your mower working too, it's always tougher doing hay in the fall, but it can definitely be done, I really think you're on the right track, good luck!
I always liked New Holland balers. My knotters didnt have that slop in it. Maybe put a bushing in there to tighten it up. I use to have someone turn the flywheel by hand slowly while i watched the knotter timing in action. I found problems tat way. Your teaching yourself very well. Its grass hay. If it dont rain it will will dry.
Sue, I am impressed with your baler knowledge. I have been a hay equipment mechanic for 42 years and you touched on some good points. First thing I’d like to say is I would definitely rather work on the baler then a old reel haybine. I saw some things that needed attention on your baler. I work at a Deere dealer in central Md. If I lived in Michigan I would volunteer to come over and help you go over the baler . Keep up the great videos 🙂
😄 what else did you notice on my baler? I know the twine box tension, the insulators, the cams and of course adjust the bbolts holding the knotter assembly. Anything else?
WT Farm Girl Videos Feeder finger chain in the front is loose and didn’t look like any adjustment left. Trip dog in the knotter drive gear was jumping every revolution, Most likely needle brake needs attention, Right twine disk looks out of time and I would ck needle adjustments to make sure they are not hitting knotter frames to hard , You mentioned something was pushing knotters up .
I use a little fish weight doo dad to set mine more accurate. I’m unsure if one needs to be that picky but my 565 baler was having issues for no reason. After getting the twine pull set in the ball park area, the issues went away
Back in the 60’s we had a Massey Ferguson baler that was very similar to your New Holland and we had knotter problems with the twine jamming and breaking. We ended up replacing darn near the whole knotter assembly before the problem got fixed.
We have a 276 NH baler. The knotters are bolted down. Our baler has made 10s of thousands of bales & the knotters have never blown up. We have had to replace parts due to wear
I doubt this is much comfort to you, but with all the issues you are having with your JD1219 mower and NH575 baler, I reckon you already know a LOT more than many of its operators (certainly more than I do!), so well done for hanging in there and learning how to fix these pesky problems! And buying the whole, assembled sickle bar from John Deere isn't really that bad a of a deal, especially as it can save valuable time assembling it! By the way, what's interesting about that bar: from factory (the one you bought) it comes assembled using rivets, but you can a buy a bolt-kit and install sickle sections using nuts & bolts.
Wt farm girl u doing a awesome job on your channel keep making awesome videos on your channel i will never stop watching your channel alot u are pretty on your channel say safe and healthy with your family i hope this will get better soon 😀
If its the bolt that's been put in to replaced the pin like on the right side then no because bolts are not standard, leaves factory with pins through.
those knotters are international harvestors knotters new holland has always used them as does johndeere and many other brands . i mean identical knotters on them all and yes the pins need to be bolts with washers .like the one outside identical. timing is everything . as is lineup i thought when u was baling it acted like u had a needle out of line right side but that could be the loose pin on the right side.good luck . bob from ohio just south of the mich. line good luck neighbor
I am sure you will receive a lot of helpful comments, but here is my two cents lol My 570 has bolts holding the knotter assemblies, but they are not super tight- there is a little wiggle room. To get a better view of what is happening, wait until Eric can help you. He can turn the flywheel by hand, and you can watch the knotters attempt to knot. That will be much more efficient than trying to watch them in slow mo on a camera. Then you can further asses what is not working correctly. Lastly, run the twine through the needles and just tie it off to the baler. I usually tie mine on the support than runs from the side of the baler to the twine box. Good luck!
Working on equipment in winter??? I take it they have never farmed for a living. My buddy Jody Holbrook lives and farms in Michigan, I got to get up there one day and check him out who knows maybe I can swing by and say hey in person! Well keep up the great videos and hard work!
I thought all us Michiganders were used to working on vehicles/equipment in the freezing cold, thats why they make carhartt stuff. Nothing like doubling up on your work to make yourself twice as glad when your done. Take care!
LOL, while I am outside ALOT in the cold, I can't work with gloves/mittens on, and my hands are too sensetive to the cold to have them off more than a few seconds :(
@@This1LifeWeLive HaHa! Fair enough! You still have girly hands ( not a bad thing ) my hands are so rough and thick with calluses I can put a cigarette out on them. Between Grampa's corn fields in Kentucky, our garden and big lawn, and my Sisters farm on the once rural side of town my hands got an early start. But then my whole life we always had a salamander heater blowing on the work area to fool us into thinking we were warm enough.
I was told by a very good baler mechanic that the pins are designed to move some and should not be tight. The amount of movement you have on the right hand knotter is too loose. replace the plate so there is not so much movement.
In my opinion after seeing the parts close up and all the wear marks I would say that baler has done well over the average amount of bales it should have an they started having a lot of trouble with it so thats why it had been repainted an had new decals put on an sold so cheap. The reason they put pins in is make it quicker when you need to lift the knotter in the field so you don't have to mess about undoing bolts an wasting time, the pin is so loose because the hole it goes through is warn out of shape thus creating movement what in time has warn a groove in the slide arm. As someone else said the porcelain doughnuts are made to be rotated rather than by new ones, if you rotate them a quarter turn each season they will last forever. Hope you manage to get the baler an haybine fixed an running OK for the last cut after all your problems so far this year an with a bit of luck the weather will be kind an stay warm an dry so you can get some extra money 🙂
WE did that years ago and it was so tick it kept getting stuck and wouldn't spit the knots out. Plus the bales always broke open in the bale carts :( We tried every color until we hit blue.
I admire the tenacity of your never say quit and just keep trying... eventually some day many years into the future, the kids will be stepping in into a second generation farmer stats and your not even second guessing, telling them this is why it does what it does this, this way and showing them the correct way for it to work, ways to fix or get around something for a day or quit while ahead and fix it right so it don't bite you. I pray seriously for you safety little girl.... mens hands hurt the same but I can't stand scars on a lady.... I think of you in your wedding dress and how really pretty that you looked and thinking lucky Eric gets to unwrap that package after the wedding is over ... a blush right here would be nice. I am a man and even at 73 miss that warm body next to mine. Can't sleep in a bed to this day because of missing what wasn't mine to keep. Keep doing what your doing and I will keep rooting for you
Hi like your videos , a suggestion on your new cutting bar look at the end weld to see if welded properly. If not u will need to remove that seal befor welding. Hopefully your neighbors kid could weld it properly for u so that won't be an issue.
When the needle comes through the knotter it must slightly rub up against the mechanism. If you pull the knotter over with bolts the needle might not rub. The needle will then vibrate excessively and you WILL have problems.
Sickle machine, we use to do mower sickles by hand and combine sickles until we got to running to many sickles, also bigger ones, before combines gotbigger we had 5 old combines, 4 to run and a spare, 4 kids equaled 4 combines, between the combines and trucks we usually had something dead to work on and as we got older we also started driving truck and it got to the point that u could not hire help so we ended up with a 760 Massey and then another, then bigger trucks up to semis, combines never seemed as bad as a swather and a baler
Woo-Hoo! Farm Girl! I forgot to mention, there's a New Holland 1034 bale wagon listed on Tractorhouse just about a half hour north of you in Paris. It's coming up at an auction a week from tomorrow. I'm not inferring that you should buy it (looks to have sat out, wheel laying on the ground next to it), just look at it to get an idea what they're all about. Well, provided you have the time & hankerin' to. Otherwise. Voelker Bros. has several sitting on their lot. One is even self propelled. Judging by their prices, they'll be sitting there for a while.
That bolt is still not tightened. Rotate the Porcelain Insulators 1/2 turn this time. I don't think they are a part of the problem. Wish I could be of more help.
For the mower. The shaft for the reciprocating arm is the issue for snapping the blade(mount is worn or the shaft is bent) Get a flat head full thread bolt, add a wide washer then thead a square nut all the way to the bottom (reusable carriage bolt)
I agree they are easier to work on an less to go wrong but the downfall is space to store the bales as they take up a lot more room plus a lot of people that have horses that I remember sales to don't always have the equipment to handle them there end or a lot of space to store them.
WT Farm Girl I see what you and John are saying now. That’s so cool to see how people in different parts of the country do things. I know here in Kentucky it’s rare to see a square bale. Everyone feeds round bales to horse’s and cattle. Most people here just let them set outside. Roll them tight and you don’t lose much to weather. I sell 1000 pound 4x5 rolls for 25 a roll right out of the field. Anyway good luck on the Baler
Never had much problem with the knotters on our old Super 66. Miss maybe 50 bales out of 3000 every year. Put bushings of some sort and tighten the right one down. Rotate those porcelain guides, they will last forever. Might be the type of twine being used that is wearing them. The bale length measurement bar can be repaired easily. A bit of weld and smooth it back down, maybe turn the stop over.
self-taught I'm afraid. I learned 99% of my mechanical skills impromptu on the farm over the last 7 years by having things stop working. It's gotta get workign again somehow, and you can't keep shelling out hundreds of dollars for every little issue (or big issue).
I don't touch it with water. I've heard that's the worst thing you can do. But I do go through with the blow gun after I get it off the field and blow everything out clean. Then it goes into the barn for the winter. I explained in a previous video that we got married 2 days after baling hay, so there was NO TIME for regular cleanup.
The bolt slop, can be taken care off easily by putting in a larger size bolt. Drill a hole in the bolt and take a castle nut, tighten it and place a pin though the hole you drilled in the bolt
hmm right knoter is still moving up, when needle comes up--my knoter is completly still..check all porcelain-rings...all new is good..sometimes change rings 180 degrees or file it with a round chainsaw-file..so the yarn can easy flow...
It would help the baler in the long run by keeping the baler in a building during the winter.it is really hard on and detrimental to the life of the knotters to be out in the wrather.i'm from wa. State and we never kept the baler in the rain and moisture.
WE do keep it in the barn during winter?? We can;t in the summer because there's no extra room. And most farms out here everything is kept outside. Farmers are too poor to build sheds just for machines. We'd like to eventually build another barn, but we run a debt free farm, so it will mean taking out a loan for a barn.
@@This1LifeWeLive the overrunning clutch is in the yoke on the end of the PTO shaft should be able to turn the flywheel by hand should make a clicking sound when turned. Otherwise you're turning it backwards.
Twine coming from the twine box needs about a 2 lb pull on it and slide free from there. Some NH balers seem picky with it. Be sure to show a picture of the knot it makes next time....
Oh I will, don't worry! Yes the pull on that twine box seemed more like 10+ lbs . . . If I can't pull the string through the knotter end, I know the knotter can't either.
Some advice: 1.the pins should have some slack, don't bolt them tight. 2.Rotate the porcelain twine guides for 90 to 180 degrees. They have nothing to do with your problem though, but could cut the twine when the edges become sharp. 3.To trip the knotter, don't turn the star wheel, you could hurt yourself on those pins. Just give a jank to the lever on the left. 4.check how the needles go into the knotter. Might same weird, but they should touch the knotter frame. 5.That spring on those twine tensioner plates is crap. Replace it. Get a feel for the over all twine tension in the system by pulling a twine through the knotter. You should be able to pull the twine without too much force. You'll find a value in the ops manual. 6. the knotters look to dry. Make sure everything is well lubed. For all the rest: ask OLF, he's THE expert.
they are dry because I cleared everything off them for inspection, but they were all greased well when I used it previously. Will be greased again once I get ready to hit the field. I've got OLF on speed dial for when I get stuck ;D
I think you are on the road for a solution to the problem.....! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Twine should pull through easily. Rotate the "insulators about 90 degrees and TAKE THAT DARN TENSIONER APART and polish up the surfaces where the twine passes through. Bet it;s full rust and crud.
Oh yeah, it'll dry. May take an extra day, but it will dry. I have alf & clover in mine. It'll take an extra couple days to get dry. Looks like a good week & a half with no rain here. May go for it next week.
The pins are usually loose.. The pin you have in is in backwards. The clip should not be on the slotted side. Our baler has about 100 000 bales through it and runs fine loose so that;s not the problem. The one on the right is out "time". Easy to fix loosen nut tap loose rotate a bit and torque back the nut. Leave the baler right there. Fold it out and get to rpm and start filling the machine with loose hay and practice in the barn BEFORE you take it to the field.
Amount of pull on twine at needle should be 5-10 #s needles should have round holes if slots they can be welded on the !machine buy disconnecting the swing arm and pulling all the way past knotters then grind to shape. worn insulators is the giving sign needles aren't ! T getting twine in the knotters ! I was informed when using a baler to get hair cut as short as possible so I couldn't t pull it out ! Best of luck
Hey young lady.............just rotate the insulators don't buy new ones. As a farm equiptment field engineer( retired ) all knotter frames must NOT move during the knotter cycle !! Bolt both knotter frame assemblies in the " down position" as far as possible. Next trip the knotter and rotate flywheel until needles come up to their highest position....check your OM for the correct clearance of needle to the twine disc holder, observe the eye of the needle....is it inline with disc holder valley ??? Two adjustments you make on the needle frame (1) the clearance adjustment (2) eye alignment. If the twine is not laid properly into the disc holder and the twine tension is loose.......................NO KNOT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tension and alignment are critical in the tie cycle which happens in "nano seconds" !! You are not going to see the knotter function with PTO running ! Pull both twine strands up thru the top of bale chamber, insert a piece of pipe across the top of bale chamber and thru the two twine loops..........now go back to the twine box and pull all the slack twine back into the box. You are now set up as if a bale is in the chamber, trip the knotter arm and turn by hand, see what happens now you will see the tie cycle and how the knot is formed or why it is not formed.
I have confidence in you it will work after you get that fixed you need to go get your certifications so you can be a tractor combine farm equipment doctor. Carl
Its suppose to be like that since the 311 models,,it helps to knock the dust off when it ties..the twine discs needs rotated ahead a 1/8. Look the manual..new Holland TH-cam shows a good video to show you how it ties..
Based upon your videos, which is not like directly working on the machine, and observation of wear on high wear parts, your baler has baled well over 100,000.00 plus bales. We have found after 100,000.00 plus bales that a major overhaul and rebuild is needed including replacing the high wear parts, or the entire knotter assembly. After a lot of wear; it is difficult to keep the knotter timing and the required 1/8 inch (with max 1/4 inch) clearance between the needles and twine discs. It is hard to tell from the video, yet it appears you may have over 1/4 inch clearance or more between the needles and twine discs when the needles come up to the knotter assembly?
Use a leaf blower or power washer to blow out all the hay before it turns slimey and rusts out your equipment. Millennial Farmer is constantly cleaning his equipment. This is especially important for you because you're not able to store your machinery indoors.
I luube before every use. We usually bale about 600 bales per use. more grease doesn't make it work beter, it can only hold so much before it spits it out the side to collect debris. I pump it until it starts to peek out the other side.
They always told me to use the pins, not bolts because the knotters need some movement, but the wear on the holes is way to much. Even for bolts. I worked with different knotters, also NH on both big balers and small balers. I really don't like the NH knotters, to much timing involved compaired to the system Welger, now Lely Welger uses. There's no timing involved in these, just a few tension adjustments. You should also have a look at your chains, i see a lot of slack on some of them that can also influence timing. Again.. i don't like the chain drives NH uses, i prefer gearboxes, they are always spot on. You could also check your needle adjustments, wrong clearance or hight can cause hughe knotter problems and maybe also the worn pin holes and flying knotters.
You sure is one smart young lady!!!!! It's ok to make hay, and it's even ok to play in the hay, BUT NEVER roll in the hay...LOL... A wise old man told me that when I was a young lad. Well I forgot those words of wisdom 2 boys latter I remembered... LOL... I sure hope y'all get a good laugh out of that...LOL... Kind of funny some time what this old brain of mine can still remember from time to time... LOL... Much love and prayers be blessed in Jesus name... BBE..
Now a days Everyone Thinks Narrow fronts (tricycles) are rollover dangerous. Funny that millions if not billions of hours were spent on them before wide front came along and the farmer population just kept growing.
Cool slow mo.just pull up on trip arm .needles are supposed to lightly rub knotter in their travel. Lot to it more than i know.im sure u will get stick to it and get it. U will be in high demand
The porcelain knobs should not matter they are just guides ,recheck. The way the twine is threaded. It looks like the right side is in front of a support bar between the knob and the needle would not let carry in the needle properly good luck
You are learning a lot working on your machines 👍👍👍👍
This is very true!
All you can do is keep trying different adjustments until you find the perfect spot, then you weld the hell out of it. Gotta love your attitude in keeping your used equipment running. Keep moving forward sue
Hey WT Farm Girl!👋 Thanks for the lesson! 😆❤👍
You will be an expert on hay bines and balers you have so much knowledge of your machines. Reckon the drag on the twine is a big part of your problem with the Knotters . John deere or New Holland should sponsor you. Great video again .
Suz - had bad knotter problems a few weeks back. Nephew suggested changing from 130# to 170# knot strength twine. He bales mostly rounds but has put up 9600 squares so far this year with almost zero misses. I changed to us 170# twine and haven't missed a knot since. Didn't cost me anything as I stole my twine from him but it is CNH twine from the dealer. He pays the extra because he can't afford misses. And the knotters need to be a little loose. Your pinned one has too much wear so that needs a fix. Nephew noticed my problem knotter was the one that had a bolt in that was tight. The other one, which hadn't been a problem, had a lock nut allowing a little play. If you haven't already done it, it is worth downloading the NH knotter service manual. One set of your twine discs are way out of time. I wish I had your luck finding your baler at that price. I paid $4,000 for a used 315.
I'll have to see about a service manual
Suze, I recommend watching that video someone posted below. If you go to settings you can watch it at .25 normal speed. It shows the disc slots both wide open for the twine as the knotter performs in slomo.
The porslin holders don't need replacing. Just rotate them a bit. Save your money.
They are made to be turned. Doesn't the manual tell you that? If something as hard as porcelain is wearing, the steel is too. How bad are the needles.
Those are actually electric fence insulators that they use for bushings. They're a lot harder than steel.
a pack of 10 was like $10 :)
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 Interesting! I didn't know how hard porcelain is! I will check the needles, thank you!
@@This1LifeWeLive I found a nail-on porcelain fence insulator inside a tree once, with my chain saw. Seems some farmers didn't feel like setting posts, so they used any trees growing in the general vicinity.
Suzanne, If you pull up on the trip arm, it will do the knot. You don't have to turn the wheel. The guides with the grooves, loosen them and turn them 90 degrees. When was the last time you greased the knotter? Did you possibly miss and grease fittings? Have you tried different string? There are different sizes available. It can make a difference. Make sure needles are equal and not bent.
Best wishes, Kevin
we average under 1,000 bales per use, and I always grease everything before each use. I've tried every type of twine. We had a lot of issues since we bought it,a nd once we switched to the blue twine things went much better. I forgot the trip arm will move with no hay in th chamber, lol!
You might get something out of this.
www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=1596413
Do yo have a neighbor that has had one for years? Experience is king!
Need to look at the wear on the pins/bolts. Also the wear on the holding bracket. Since it's been allowed to more freely it will cause more wear. Nothing to stop you from replacing the holding bracket, or welding a harden washer to the bracket. Are bolts tighten to the point of preventing movement or allowed to move freely? If it holds it tight, I'd go with the bolt system. Not sure how much play the knotter needs. I just ran a baler for a couple years, not repaired them. I would retime bout sides.
I have never worked on a baler so I cannot help you but am intrigued at the complexity of their operation.
I can't believe someone was able to put this whole thing into an idea way back when! And not much has chnaged SINCE it was invented.
You learned about repairing your baler and sharing your tips with us,,THANK YOU : D
Very good Suzanne, you're taking it slow, deliberate, looks good so far, hopefully that new cutterbar will get your mower working too, it's always tougher doing hay in the fall, but it can definitely be done, I really think you're on the right track, good luck!
Thanks Tony!
I always liked New Holland balers. My knotters didnt have that slop in it. Maybe put a bushing in there to tighten it up. I use to have someone turn the flywheel by hand slowly while i watched the knotter timing in action. I found problems tat way. Your teaching yourself very well. Its grass hay. If it dont rain it will will dry.
I should have tightened that bolt before testing it. Would have been more accurate
Hay cutter. Love your videos. Keep the faith.
Sue, I am impressed with your baler knowledge. I have been a hay equipment mechanic for 42 years and you touched on some good points. First thing I’d like to say is I would definitely rather work on the baler then a old reel haybine. I saw some things that needed attention on your baler. I work at a Deere dealer in central Md. If I lived in Michigan I would volunteer to come over and help you go over the baler . Keep up the great videos 🙂
😄 what else did you notice on my baler? I know the twine box tension, the insulators, the cams and of course adjust the bbolts holding the knotter assembly. Anything else?
WT Farm Girl Videos Feeder finger chain in the front is loose and didn’t look like any adjustment left. Trip dog in the knotter drive gear was jumping every revolution, Most likely needle brake needs attention, Right twine disk looks out of time and I would ck needle adjustments to make sure they are not hitting knotter frames to hard , You mentioned something was pushing knotters up .
I use a little fish weight doo dad to set mine more accurate. I’m unsure if one needs to be that picky but my 565 baler was having issues for no reason. After getting the twine pull set in the ball park area, the issues went away
Back in the 60’s we had a Massey Ferguson baler that was very similar to your New Holland and we had knotter problems with the twine jamming and breaking. We ended up replacing darn near the whole knotter assembly before the problem got fixed.
That's crossed my mind too, lol!
We have a 276 NH baler. The knotters are bolted down. Our baler has made 10s of thousands of bales & the knotters have never blown up. We have had to replace parts due to wear
That's good to know!
I doubt this is much comfort to you, but with all the issues you are having with your JD1219 mower and NH575 baler, I reckon you already know a LOT more than many of its operators (certainly more than I do!), so well done for hanging in there and learning how to fix these pesky problems!
And buying the whole, assembled sickle bar from John Deere isn't really that bad a of a deal, especially as it can save valuable time assembling it! By the way, what's interesting about that bar: from factory (the one you bought) it comes assembled using rivets, but you can a buy a bolt-kit and install sickle sections using nuts & bolts.
Did notice chain above hay pickup loose.
Wt farm girl u doing a awesome job on your channel keep making awesome videos on your channel i will never stop watching your channel alot u are pretty on your channel say safe and healthy with your family i hope this will get better soon 😀
Thank you Brendon, glad you enjoy them!
@@This1LifeWeLive i do enjoy them because u my favorite TH-camr and the pretty one on your channel alot 😀
On the knotter with the bolts / nut , does the book , dia- grahm show them to be tightened with a tork , bar , just a thought , stay safe ! Bob
If its the bolt that's been put in to replaced the pin like on the right side then no because bolts are not standard, leaves factory with pins through.
Is the twine threaded properly?
yes
Looked different than my old 269
those knotters are international harvestors knotters new holland has always used them as does johndeere and many other brands . i mean identical knotters on them all and yes the pins need to be bolts with washers .like the one outside identical. timing is everything . as is lineup i thought when u was baling it acted like u had a needle out of line right side but that could be the loose pin on the right side.good luck . bob from ohio just south of the mich. line good luck neighbor
I am sure you will receive a lot of helpful comments, but here is my two cents lol My 570 has bolts holding the knotter assemblies, but they are not super tight- there is a little wiggle room. To get a better view of what is happening, wait until Eric can help you. He can turn the flywheel by hand, and you can watch the knotters attempt to knot. That will be much more efficient than trying to watch them in slow mo on a camera. Then you can further asses what is not working correctly. Lastly, run the twine through the needles and just tie it off to the baler. I usually tie mine on the support than runs from the side of the baler to the twine box. Good luck!
Ok that makes sense, I will give that a try
Working on equipment in winter??? I take it they have never farmed for a living. My buddy Jody Holbrook lives and farms in Michigan, I got to get up there one day and check him out who knows maybe I can swing by and say hey in person! Well keep up the great videos and hard work!
Also a bit hard to test when there's no grass to run it through, lol!
@@This1LifeWeLive surely is!!!!
Im sure you checked but are the needles hitting the knotter frames?
I thought all us Michiganders were used to working on vehicles/equipment in the freezing cold, thats why they make carhartt stuff.
Nothing like doubling up on your work to make yourself twice as glad when your done.
Take care!
"The heat is in your tools. If you are cold, work harder!"
LOL, while I am outside ALOT in the cold, I can't work with gloves/mittens on, and my hands are too sensetive to the cold to have them off more than a few seconds :(
@@This1LifeWeLive HaHa! Fair enough! You still have girly hands ( not a bad thing ) my hands are so rough and thick with calluses I can put a cigarette out on them. Between Grampa's corn fields in Kentucky, our garden and big lawn, and my Sisters farm on the once rural side of town my hands got an early start. But then my whole life we always had a salamander heater blowing on the work area to fool us into thinking we were warm enough.
I was told by a very good baler mechanic that the pins are designed to move some and should not be tight. The amount of movement you have on the right hand knotter is too loose. replace the plate so there is not so much movement.
Absolutely, the knotter suppose to move.
Bolt with lock nut, so it can be adjusted.
Would be interested in buying the 273 still. If the price is right.
😆 I think we are keeping it for parts! We've pulled several off it this year :D
Well if you decide to sell it let me know I've got a NH 268 that's getting tired and I need another project to fix. LoL
Hope you have finally found the last adjustments and replacement parts you will need.
hoping I can this weekend!
The pins with keeper are std on most new balers you need check and maybe adjust the needles as to where they come up through the knotters
Pin system or Nylon nuts. No regular nuts as the vibration loosens them. Ask me how I know...
That is spooky looking watching the needles in slow mo pop up thru the knotter.
In my opinion after seeing the parts close up and all the wear marks I would say that baler has done well over the average amount of bales it should have an they started having a lot of trouble with it so thats why it had been repainted an had new decals put on an sold so cheap.
The reason they put pins in is make it quicker when you need to lift the knotter in the field so you don't have to mess about undoing bolts an wasting time, the pin is so loose because the hole it goes through is warn out of shape thus creating movement what in time has warn a groove in the slide arm.
As someone else said the porcelain doughnuts are made to be rotated rather than by new ones, if you rotate them a quarter turn each season they will last forever. Hope you manage to get the baler an haybine fixed an running OK for the last cut after all your problems so far this year an with a bit of luck the weather will be kind an stay warm an dry so you can get some extra money 🙂
I agree, I do like the quick pin system but it just isn't tight enough for my liking :(
Those guides u talked about r just glass corner insulators for fence
been watch'n some of yer old vids and give'n them a thumbs UP ↑ !
🤎🤎🤎🤎🤎🤎
ever think of using help twine instead of nylon?
WE did that years ago and it was so tick it kept getting stuck and wouldn't spit the knots out. Plus the bales always broke open in the bale carts :( We tried every color until we hit blue.
@@This1LifeWeLive interesting(tick? I think that is thick?) so twine doesn't come in different thickness? thanks for update
I admire the tenacity of your never say quit and just keep trying... eventually some day many years into the future, the kids will be stepping in into a second generation farmer stats and your not even second guessing, telling them this is why it does what it does this, this way and showing them the correct way for it to work, ways to fix or get around something for a day or quit while ahead and fix it right so it don't bite you. I pray seriously for you safety little girl.... mens hands hurt the same but I can't stand scars on a lady.... I think of you in your wedding dress and how really pretty that you looked and thinking lucky Eric gets to unwrap that package after the wedding is over ... a blush right here would be nice. I am a man and even at 73 miss that warm body next to mine. Can't sleep in a bed to this day because of missing what wasn't mine to keep. Keep doing what your doing and I will keep rooting for you
Hi like your videos , a suggestion on your new cutting bar look at the end weld to see if welded properly. If not u will need to remove that seal befor welding. Hopefully your neighbors kid could weld it properly for u so that won't be an issue.
When the needle comes through the knotter it must slightly rub up against the mechanism. If you pull the knotter over with bolts the needle might not rub. The needle will then vibrate excessively and you WILL have problems.
Suzanne = your problems with the hay baler bring new meaning to the phrase 'Get Knotted' !! Ha Ha.
That's one thing about working on a farm always working on equipment
I couldn't agree with you more
Potato chips
Sickle machine, we use to do mower sickles by hand and combine sickles until we got to running to many sickles, also bigger ones, before combines gotbigger we had 5 old combines, 4 to run and a spare, 4 kids equaled 4 combines, between the combines and trucks we usually had something dead to work on and as we got older we also started driving truck and it got to the point that u could not hire help so we ended up with a 760 Massey and then another, then bigger trucks up to semis, combines never seemed as bad as a swather and a baler
Woo-Hoo! Farm Girl! I forgot to mention, there's a New Holland 1034 bale wagon listed on Tractorhouse just about a half hour north of you in Paris. It's coming up at an auction a week from tomorrow. I'm not inferring that you should buy it (looks to have sat out, wheel laying on the ground next to it), just look at it to get an idea what they're all about. Well, provided you have the time & hankerin' to. Otherwise. Voelker Bros. has several sitting on their lot. One is even self propelled. Judging by their prices, they'll be sitting there for a while.
Suzanne - call Wes, he made 1000 of the small bales this year. He would have to know what your problem is with the baler.
Wes is the one to watch about knotter service. 👌
That bolt is still not tightened. Rotate the Porcelain Insulators 1/2 turn this time. I don't think they are a part of the problem. Wish I could be of more help.
For the mower. The shaft for the reciprocating arm is the issue for snapping the blade(mount is worn or the shaft is bent) Get a flat head full thread bolt, add a wide washer then thead a square nut all the way to the bottom (reusable carriage bolt)
Just out of curiosity, why not switch to a round Baler? So much easier to work on and give less trouble. Anyway good luck
I agree they are easier to work on an less to go wrong but the downfall is space to store the bales as they take up a lot more room plus a lot of people that have horses that I remember sales to don't always have the equipment to handle them there end or a lot of space to store them.
I sell horse hay, most customers want squares. Better market.
WT Farm Girl I see what you and John are saying now. That’s so cool to see how people in different parts of the country do things. I know here in Kentucky it’s rare to see a square bale. Everyone feeds round bales to horse’s and cattle. Most people here just let them set outside. Roll them tight and you don’t lose much to weather. I sell 1000 pound 4x5 rolls for 25 a roll right out of the field. Anyway good luck on the Baler
Never had much problem with the knotters on our old Super 66. Miss maybe 50 bales out of 3000 every year. Put bushings of some sort and tighten the right one down. Rotate those porcelain guides, they will last forever. Might be the type of twine being used that is wearing them. The bale length measurement bar can be repaired easily. A bit of weld and smooth it back down, maybe turn the stop over.
Where did you learn about all this stuff??? Did you grow up on a farm? Very impressive
Sorry she's as green as they get. But her passion is priceless!
self-taught I'm afraid. I learned 99% of my mechanical skills impromptu on the farm over the last 7 years by having things stop working. It's gotta get workign again somehow, and you can't keep shelling out hundreds of dollars for every little issue (or big issue).
All the farm channels I watch when there finished cutting for the day they get the power washer and spay everything off of the cutter and the Baylor
I don't touch it with water. I've heard that's the worst thing you can do. But I do go through with the blow gun after I get it off the field and blow everything out clean. Then it goes into the barn for the winter. I explained in a previous video that we got married 2 days after baling hay, so there was NO TIME for regular cleanup.
The bolt slop, can be taken care off easily by putting in a larger size bolt. Drill a hole in the bolt and take a castle nut, tighten it and place a pin though the hole you drilled in the bolt
hmm right knoter is still moving up, when needle comes up--my knoter is completly still..check all porcelain-rings...all new is good..sometimes change rings 180 degrees or file it with a round chainsaw-file..so the yarn can easy flow...
Try rotating those white grommets 180 degrees before you replace them to see if that makes a difference before you replace them.
That baler must have 10,000 bales gone through it before you got it. Had a 68,273,only miner problems with hotter.need to have a bolt to hole
It would help the baler in the long run by keeping the baler in a building during the winter.it is really hard on and detrimental to the life of the knotters to be out in the wrather.i'm from wa. State and we never kept the baler in the rain and moisture.
WE do keep it in the barn during winter?? We can;t in the summer because there's no extra room. And most farms out here everything is kept outside. Farmers are too poor to build sheds just for machines. We'd like to eventually build another barn, but we run a debt free farm, so it will mean taking out a loan for a barn.
I certainly understand your problem. Been there,done that!!!!! Take care!
First thing to check is the needle alignment. Would bolt the knotters in place.
This one has an overrun clutch, and cannot be rotated via the flywheel . . . only the pto shaft :( Makes for a VERY long ordeal :P
@@This1LifeWeLive the overrunning clutch is in the yoke on the end of the PTO shaft should be able to turn the flywheel by hand should make a clicking sound when turned. Otherwise you're turning it backwards.
Twine coming from the twine box needs about a 2 lb pull on it and slide free from there. Some NH balers seem picky with it. Be sure to show a picture of the knot it makes next time....
Oh I will, don't worry! Yes the pull on that twine box seemed more like 10+ lbs . . . If I can't pull the string through the knotter end, I know the knotter can't either.
Exploding knotters ! Wow you have problems I`ve never heard of.By the way my 273 is still working.
LOL our 273 needs the bearings in the chamber replaced. I looked at doing it and re-selling it, but it's not at th top of my list ;)
Some advice:
1.the pins should have some slack, don't bolt them tight.
2.Rotate the porcelain twine guides for 90 to 180 degrees. They have nothing to do with your problem though, but could cut the twine when the edges become sharp.
3.To trip the knotter, don't turn the star wheel, you could hurt yourself on those pins. Just give a jank to the lever on the left.
4.check how the needles go into the knotter. Might same weird, but they should touch the knotter frame.
5.That spring on those twine tensioner plates is crap. Replace it. Get a feel for the over all twine tension in the system by pulling a twine through the knotter. You should be able to pull the twine without too much force. You'll find a value in the ops manual.
6. the knotters look to dry. Make sure everything is well lubed.
For all the rest: ask OLF, he's THE expert.
they are dry because I cleared everything off them for inspection, but they were all greased well when I used it previously. Will be greased again once I get ready to hit the field. I've got OLF on speed dial for when I get stuck ;D
I wish you all the luck I can send you!
I think you are on the road for a solution to the problem.....! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Was going to ask if the police followed you home with the new baler. That's a really good price.
Great video
Hay Suz, I hope you never find any dead mice living in your farm implements. That would be bad.
😄😄😄🙈 me too! WE don't need zombie mice!
You need to rebuild the knotter. Timing is not the issue.. You have worn parts. All pierced in the knitter have adjustments.
Get longer pins for knotters. Weld collars where pins go through.
Here in Tennessee that new holland bailer goes for around 12-1500 all day long.
1200 or 12,00?? Even our crappy 273 was a steal at $900 7 years ago, most going for well over $1000
@@This1LifeWeLive 1.200
The reason that sale so cheap here most people don't use them anymore.thay just sit around in the weeds.
We had a 276 hayliner
You don't need to replace the ceramic (insolator) wire guides. Loosen the ubolt retainers and roll them 180 degrees to fresh surface.
Turn the flywheel by hand and check the knotters at different stages.
Twine should pull through easily. Rotate the "insulators about 90 degrees and TAKE THAT DARN TENSIONER APART and polish up the surfaces where the twine passes through. Bet it;s full rust and crud.
Oh yeah, it'll dry. May take an extra day, but it will dry. I have alf & clover in mine. It'll take an extra couple days to get dry. Looks like a good week & a half with no rain here. May go for it next week.
eeks, yes clover can be a bear to dry!
The haybine of course. The bailer is a pain for your.
You might be happier with a John Deere bailer 😉
You need to build a shop and put wood burner inside.. Not sure what you would work on.
Yay new video
The pins are usually loose.. The pin you have in is in backwards. The clip should not be on the slotted side. Our baler has about 100 000 bales through it and runs fine loose so that;s not the problem. The one on the right is out "time". Easy to fix loosen nut tap loose rotate a bit and torque back the nut. Leave the baler right there. Fold it out and get to rpm and start filling the machine with loose hay and practice in the barn BEFORE you take it to the field.
Amount of pull on twine at needle should be 5-10 #s needles should have round holes if slots they can be welded on the !machine buy disconnecting the swing arm and pulling all the way past knotters then grind to shape. worn insulators is the giving sign needles aren't !
T getting twine in the knotters ! I was informed when using a baler to get hair cut as short as possible so I couldn't t pull it out ! Best of luck
this is what you do find a very old stove that work or make used oil stove and will keep you warm in the barn
Hey young lady.............just rotate the insulators don't buy new ones. As a farm equiptment field engineer( retired ) all knotter frames must NOT move during the knotter cycle !! Bolt both knotter frame assemblies in the " down position" as far as possible. Next trip the knotter and rotate flywheel until needles come up to their highest position....check your OM for the correct clearance of needle to the twine disc holder, observe the eye of the needle....is it inline with disc holder valley ??? Two adjustments you make on the needle frame (1) the clearance adjustment (2) eye alignment. If the twine is not laid properly into the disc holder and the twine tension is loose.......................NO KNOT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tension and alignment are critical in the tie cycle which happens in "nano seconds" !!
You are not going to see the knotter function with PTO running ! Pull both twine strands up thru the top of bale chamber, insert a piece of pipe across the top of bale chamber and thru the two twine loops..........now go back to the twine box and pull all the slack twine back into the box. You are now set up as if a bale is in the chamber, trip the knotter arm and turn by hand, see what happens now you will see the tie cycle and how the knot is formed or why it is not formed.
You should switch to bolt on sickle sections a lot easier and faster.
I don't know if it will dry; I don't know what the heck is wrong with your baler, but I do know potato chips are good. 1 outta 3 ain't bad...
😂 Aww Comeon Dr Lee, you GOTTA know what's wrong with the baler! Don't be withholding information from me, lol!
I have confidence in you it will work after you get that fixed you need to go get your certifications so you can be a tractor combine farm equipment doctor. Carl
lol maybe when I retire!
Its suppose to be like that since the 311 models,,it helps to knock the dust off when it ties..the twine discs needs rotated ahead a 1/8. Look the manual..new Holland TH-cam shows a good video to show you how it ties..
I've seen that video! I just wish it was a bit more clear, but the tv technology back in the 70's wasn't the best ;D
I think that a brand new baler from New Holland BC5060 is about $23k.
I baled with a NH 273 for about ten years. Put the grease to it and hardly ever missed a bale .
ours was well used when we got it. at this point it needs major work done :(
yes she needs to put more grease and it should never look dry around the knotters. Put more grease and do not wash it with water.
273 is a good baler :)
You could move further south and you wouldn’t have to worry about the cold. Wouldn’t need a heated shop. Lol
Based upon your videos, which is not like directly working on the machine, and observation of wear on high wear parts, your baler has baled well over 100,000.00 plus bales. We have found after 100,000.00 plus bales that a major overhaul and rebuild is needed including replacing the high wear parts, or the entire knotter assembly. After a lot of wear; it is difficult to keep the knotter timing and the required 1/8 inch (with max 1/4 inch) clearance between the needles and twine discs. It is hard to tell from the video, yet it appears you may have over 1/4 inch clearance or more between the needles and twine discs when the needles come up to the knotter assembly?
Thank you for the tip! I haven't checked the spacing on the needles YET, but it's on my list! I will keep that in mind :D
Use a leaf blower or power washer to blow out all the hay before it turns slimey and rusts out your equipment. Millennial Farmer is constantly cleaning his equipment. This is especially important for you because you're not able to store your machinery indoors.
I always clean it out after every use. However we were getting married in 2 days and I didn't have any spare time :(
Very interesting
Balers don't like getting wet they need to be shredded or tarpat times when not in use
Quit saving the grease, my uncle's knotting area on his New Holland was never that clean and dry looking.
Lube Lube Lube, Knotters need lots of lube
I lube every 500 bales if I can.
The newer Massey (Hesston) balers have a lube pump. Every cycle of the knotters it gives a shot of gear lube to different places on the knotters
I luube before every use. We usually bale about 600 bales per use. more grease doesn't make it work beter, it can only hold so much before it spits it out the side to collect debris. I pump it until it starts to peek out the other side.
They always told me to use the pins, not bolts because the knotters need some movement, but the wear on the holes is way to much. Even for bolts.
I worked with different knotters, also NH on both big balers and small balers. I really don't like the NH knotters, to much timing involved compaired to the system Welger, now Lely Welger uses. There's no timing involved in these, just a few tension adjustments.
You should also have a look at your chains, i see a lot of slack on some of them that can also influence timing. Again.. i don't like the chain drives NH uses, i prefer gearboxes, they are always spot on.
You could also check your needle adjustments, wrong clearance or hight can cause hughe knotter problems and maybe also the worn pin holes and flying knotters.
You sure is one smart young lady!!!!!
It's ok to make hay, and it's even ok to play in the hay, BUT NEVER roll in the hay...LOL... A wise old man told me that when I was a young lad. Well I forgot those words of wisdom 2 boys latter I remembered... LOL...
I sure hope y'all get a good laugh out of that...LOL...
Kind of funny some time what this old brain of mine can still remember from time to time... LOL...
Much love and prayers be blessed in Jesus name... BBE..
😂😂 I never thought it through like that!
Please fix the Super C.
I suggested that b4 but she thinks its a dangerous tractor for flipping over. I loved my Super Cs. Forty years on them.
Now a days Everyone Thinks Narrow fronts (tricycles) are rollover dangerous. Funny that millions if not billions of hours were spent on them before wide front came along and the farmer population just kept growing.
Fixing the C up would be the cheapest way to get another tractor in the field and she needs to have at least one more tractor for haying operations.
Everything will work 🤞 out yes it will be dry, and yes you will get more hay..." This will all work I promise 👍👍✌✌🙏🙏
😄
Winter time, drape traps over equipment plug in a light and hair dryer for he
Cool slow mo.just pull up on trip arm .needles are supposed to lightly rub knotter in their travel. Lot to it more than i know.im sure u will get stick to it and get it. U will be in high demand
I ahven't had much luck pulling on the arm, but then again I don't usualy do it when it's empty, lol
The porcelain knobs should not matter they are just guides ,recheck. The way the twine is threaded. It looks like the right side is in front of a support bar between the knob and the needle would not let carry in the needle properly good luck
I'll re check them once the twine box tensioner is better, and see what's happening
Owners manual has a lot of information on proper knotter adjustment.
Love your vids 🥰❤️💙 🌾🌻🚜
Thank you!