Good video Wes, now I have a much better understanding on the knoter system works - I really don't know anything about balers until I ran into your channel - keep up the good work Wes !!
And this is why I truly enjoy your channel Wes. The one thing I think you forgot to mention about those rollers is, they'll form a flat spot and then they'll wear not just the arm but other parts as well. By the way, we called them knife arms as well.
Wes all your mechanical explanations and fixes are all well and good BUT I know there is a big tall Caribbean guy in a long white coat and a top hat sacrificing 2 chickens a day out behind your barn and THAT is what keeps your knotters working just fine
Indeed knotters are a pain. Need constant attention. Great job you did to the 4910, especially the feeding. Still don’t understand the plunger extensions though. What good is it bringing? The bale is pushed 3 inches further, but the haydogs and knotters stay on the same position. To me it means that there is 3 more inches for the crop to relax, for every slice, and also at every bale knotting. Seems a great loss of efficiency.
It’s amazing how the slightest bit of wear can cause problems. That’s probably why I prefer a round baler now. Don’t get me wrong, all machinery will have issues. If I had the knowledge presented by Wes on square balers. I might still use a square baler.
I used welding rods to put a lifter in a 400 ford engine without taking the head off one time through the pushrod hole.I dropped the lifter in the pushrod hole and used the welding rods to guide it into the cam hole.
Lmao... I bought a 1953 cat 112 road grader to do some work for family. It was missing the scarifier shanks so I picked up 11 of those for 900 bucks. But I also needed T locks to hold them in. CAT asked me if I need the T lock retainers also for 30 dollars. I said yes! I get this shit and open it up. That's when I realized the 30 dollar T bolt retainers consisted of 11 inches of 1/4 inch non reinforced black rubber fuel line cut into 1" long pieces. If I never felt like I'd been had before in my life, I sure as shit felt used and abused then. Needless to say. To say, If I ever need to replace those T lock retainers I'll spend a couple bucks on a foot of 1/4" fuel line and cut it into 1' pieces myself. $28 in 5 minutes are pretty decent wages after all.
Hey! If you would just listen to me ( a retired police officer ) you would have a lot less problem with you equipment because unlike your trolls I know absolutely nothing about farming so I should know everything. A little humor. 😁 God bless.
I've used JB Weld to build the ball back up and filed it down to round again. I've had 50/50 success with this. Next time, I will try to braze it up. Yes, I am cheap! I once choked a moth to get a piece of my sweat shirt back. MB BAR RANCH
Krone calls it the blade lever in the Operator's Manual, and the knife lever in the Parts Manual. They use the term Extractor Comb for the notch in the blade lever that wipes the knot off the bill hook (Krone calls that the Knotter Hook). When you see the effect that dirt has on these moving parts in the knotter, you really appreciate the importance of keeping dirt from getting in the windrow, and of keeping the pickup tines out of the dirt as much as possible. In soft ground, if the tractor tires start making ruts, the pickup is going to get those pushed up edges of the ruts and feed them into the baler. This is to be AVOIDED. Also, good lighting and camera angles of the subject of this video, Thank You Wes.
the problem is the thingy next to the what's ya call it ... doesn't matter what it call by what company ... .. you know how to fix it and that's all that matters .. keep the good stuff coming ..
What about putting on automatic oilers on the knotters. You may want to replace the oil lines because, they do get brittle after awhile. Do you have brass jaws for your vice?
Maybe the 3/16 in dia. pins are an alloy of steel called ledloy. it is a soft iron but not as soft as welding rod... Check it with a magnet. It should not stick to the magnet. Ledloy was/is primarly used on a screw machine lathes to make parts very fast and hold there size(like hundreds a minute) and the lathe tooling will take a long time to show wear. It cannot be heatreated, but it can be case hardened......LUV your Videos Sincerely, Charles
Wes, have you seen the real time soil analysis device called teralytic? Just seen an add for it earlier, too expensive for the small guys, but pretty neat thing if it works like the company claims.
I would use the best synthetic oil money can by for the lubrication system on those knotters. All grease was not created equal either but using a single automatic grease system on a machine might deter some from using the same lubrication on other components that don't require the same degree of protection.
That's fine, but then you need to have a means to collect all that oil, since the bales going underneath will get contaminated and that will be no good if you're aiming for quality feed hay, or even mulch hay. Lubrication is tricky in very dusty conditions, since it can turn into a grinding paste with soil dust present. Wes uses a big fan to keep it all clean, so that helps a lot. Grease has a better chance of staying in place than oil would. There is nothing to contain it and gravity will feed it to the bale, is my view. Synthetic oil makes sense in an engine, but not in this application. I rather suspect that the worn items he is showing are the ones on it when purchased and therefore their age (number of bales they've done) is not known. These things do wear over time, but it could also be the result of poor set up and having seen some of the other aspects of the knotter set up, I would say that there seems to be room for improvement. Once all the old gear is replaced and Wes has had a chance to set it all up properly, the wear rate on these parts will be improved I am sure.
Yes, this is good info. One would expect to be able to replace components on an individual knife arm instead of buying the whole unit but it is all about profit I guess. I was not sure if the knotter was connected with the main grease system or not. The problem of oil on the bales is something I never thought of. It may not matter in the mushroom barn perhaps. Regarding grease, I like moly base. That stuff they put in CV joints is wonderful and I have manually packed my grease gun with some of that which I had lying around, left over from CV boot repairs. I surmise it is expensive stuff. I shoot it into all the steering and suspension parts of my greaseable vehicles and any machinery ball bearings where possible.
John Deere carries the Moly in a common tube if that is any help. Isn't noticeably higher in price either. My CV grease gun has a 1/8" copper pipe brazed to a 90 degree black iron pipe fitting with a foot of the copper pipe so I can get under the CV boot and fill the thing right on up. It's my go to for assembly lube when it's not used for CVs. But for general use it's way too thin and won't stick around on it's own like the red valvoline or green version JD also sells over the counter. Both of those are very good thick grease that will stay put.
You'll be able to bail oaktrees with it soon with all the improvements you've made. LOL If you sell it someone is going to get a very well maintained machine with a lot of life left in it.
Hey Wes as always love your channel bud... Check out Farming fixing and fabricating!!! He's from around where I'm from.... He's got some awesome videos especially one of his 333 CASE big baler back up and going that reminded me of what you went through with the Hesston. Keep being real!!!
The reason Wes know's so much about this equipment is because he has been working on em for years you fuckin Moran's.. You're welcome Wes. lol... Peace, God Bless America.. Trump 2020....WOO HOO...
would'nt be because it sat outside for the last 8 years what happens to steal after it sets and rusts for years ? what happens to the rust ?.. it wears away oh ya krons dont rust while sitting outside....
Your hands on experience shuts down any arm chair experts. Let the sun shine and equipment run like a swiss watch. Heck of a pm on the bailer.
Good video Wes, now I have a much better understanding on the knoter system works - I really don't know anything about balers until I ran into your channel - keep up the good work Wes !!
And this is why I truly enjoy your channel Wes. The one thing I think you forgot to mention about those rollers is, they'll form a flat spot and then they'll wear not just the arm but other parts as well. By the way, we called them knife arms as well.
Wes all your mechanical explanations and fixes are all well and good BUT I know there is a big tall Caribbean guy in a long white coat and a top hat sacrificing 2 chickens a day out behind your barn and THAT is what keeps your knotters working just fine
Very informative Wes thanks for sharing have a great day
Indeed knotters are a pain. Need constant attention. Great job you did to the 4910, especially the feeding. Still don’t understand the plunger extensions though. What good is it bringing? The bale is pushed 3 inches further, but the haydogs and knotters stay on the same position. To me it means that there is 3 more inches for the crop to relax, for every slice, and also at every bale knotting. Seems a great loss of efficiency.
It’s amazing how the slightest bit of wear can cause problems. That’s probably why I prefer a round baler now. Don’t get me wrong, all machinery will have issues. If I had the knowledge presented by Wes on square balers. I might still use a square baler.
I used welding rods to put a lifter in a 400 ford engine without taking the head off one time through the pushrod hole.I dropped the lifter in the pushrod hole and used the welding rods to guide it into the cam hole.
Lmao... I bought a 1953 cat 112 road grader to do some work for family. It was missing the scarifier shanks so I picked up 11 of those for 900 bucks. But I also needed T locks to hold them in. CAT asked me if I need the T lock retainers also for 30 dollars. I said yes! I get this shit and open it up. That's when I realized the 30 dollar T bolt retainers consisted of 11 inches of 1/4 inch non reinforced black rubber fuel line cut into 1" long pieces. If I never felt like I'd been had before in my life, I sure as shit felt used and abused then. Needless to say. To say, If I ever need to replace those T lock retainers I'll spend a couple bucks on a foot of 1/4" fuel line and cut it into 1' pieces myself. $28 in 5 minutes are pretty decent wages after all.
After watching all your educational videos on baler knotters, I feel I could repair/replace them blind folded. (lol)
Hey! If you would just listen to me ( a retired police officer ) you would have a lot less problem with you equipment because unlike your trolls I know absolutely nothing about farming so I should know everything.
A little humor. 😁
God bless.
I've used JB Weld to build the ball back up and filed it down to round again. I've had 50/50 success with this. Next time, I will try to braze it up. Yes, I am cheap! I once choked a moth to get a piece of my sweat shirt back.
MB BAR RANCH
Love watching older machines
Matt Cardell 2nd
Krone calls it the blade lever in the Operator's Manual, and the knife lever in the Parts Manual. They use the term Extractor Comb for the notch in the blade lever that wipes the knot off the bill hook (Krone calls that the Knotter Hook). When you see the effect that dirt has on these moving parts in the knotter, you really appreciate the importance of keeping dirt from getting in the windrow, and of keeping the pickup tines out of the dirt as much as possible. In soft ground, if the tractor tires start making ruts, the pickup is going to get those pushed up edges of the ruts and feed them into the baler. This is to be AVOIDED.
Also, good lighting and camera angles of the subject of this video, Thank You Wes.
Hi all machinery break down if you use it tractors balers weather conditions don't help I like your channel ,I am from England
the problem is the thingy next to the what's ya call it ... doesn't matter what it call by what company ... .. you know how to fix it and that's all that matters .. keep the good stuff coming ..
What about putting on automatic oilers on the knotters. You may want to replace the oil lines because, they do get brittle after awhile. Do you have brass jaws for your vice?
Nice job wes can't wait for next video thanks for what you do
Im wondering how many knife arm replacments before the housing is worn. Or is housing tougher metal.(with proper greasing)
Maybe the 3/16 in dia. pins are an alloy of steel called ledloy. it is a soft iron but not as soft as welding rod... Check it with a magnet. It should not stick to the magnet.
Ledloy was/is primarly used on a screw machine lathes to make parts very fast and hold there size(like hundreds a minute) and the lathe tooling will take a long time to show wear.
It cannot be heatreated, but it can be case hardened......LUV your Videos Sincerely, Charles
Wes you sure know your stuff good for you I watch all your videos thanks for posting.
Curious how many bales so far this year and how many more acres to go?
It looks good Wes I hope it works well for you great work
Impressive horseshoe collection
Wes your the hay making man!!!
Maybe when they say 8 pumps at low speed they mean pump it slowly? It might last longer pumping slowly.
Philip Manning I thought it was 8 lords a leapin’ lol
Thanx from the left coast near the Krapitol of California
My 4570 uses the blue twine flawlessly.
Wes, have you seen the real time soil analysis device called teralytic? Just seen an add for it earlier, too expensive for the small guys, but pretty neat thing if it works like the company claims.
Bacon makes everything better, rub the knotters with some bacon and call-er good. Thanks for the shows Wes.
Nice job👍
hey wes, little question. do those knives have to be sharpend? i would gues that they should be.
That is what we do in winter time.
Great video man like it .
Right on the money Wes
How many bales of hay have you made this year?
Maybe you should oil them when they were turning?
I would use the best synthetic oil money can by for the lubrication system on those knotters. All grease was not created equal either but using a single automatic grease system on a machine might deter some from using the same lubrication on other components that don't require the same degree of protection.
That's fine, but then you need to have a means to collect all that oil, since the bales going underneath will get contaminated and that will be no good if you're aiming for quality feed hay, or even mulch hay. Lubrication is tricky in very dusty conditions, since it can turn into a grinding paste with soil dust present. Wes uses a big fan to keep it all clean, so that helps a lot. Grease has a better chance of staying in place than oil would. There is nothing to contain it and gravity will feed it to the bale, is my view. Synthetic oil makes sense in an engine, but not in this application. I rather suspect that the worn items he is showing are the ones on it when purchased and therefore their age (number of bales they've done) is not known. These things do wear over time, but it could also be the result of poor set up and having seen some of the other aspects of the knotter set up, I would say that there seems to be room for improvement. Once all the old gear is replaced and Wes has had a chance to set it all up properly, the wear rate on these parts will be improved I am sure.
Yes, this is good info. One would expect to be able to replace components on an individual knife arm instead of buying the whole unit but it is all about profit I guess. I was not sure if the knotter was connected with the main grease system or not. The problem of oil on the bales is something I never thought of. It may not matter in the mushroom barn perhaps. Regarding grease, I like moly base. That stuff they put in CV joints is wonderful and I have manually packed my grease gun with some of that which I had lying around, left over from CV boot repairs. I surmise it is expensive stuff. I shoot it into all the steering and suspension parts of my greaseable vehicles and any machinery ball bearings where possible.
John Deere carries the Moly in a common tube if that is any help. Isn't noticeably higher in price either. My CV grease gun has a 1/8" copper pipe brazed to a 90 degree black iron pipe fitting with a foot of the copper pipe so I can get under the CV boot and fill the thing right on up. It's my go to for assembly lube when it's not used for CVs. But for general use it's way too thin and won't stick around on it's own like the red valvoline or green version JD also sells over the counter. Both of those are very good thick grease that will stay put.
Awesome!
You'll be able to bail oaktrees with it soon with all the improvements you've made. LOL If you sell it someone is going to get a very well maintained machine with a lot of life left in it.
Ford calls it a Stripper Arm.
Did you actually tell us what the price of the little plain NH and Krone gear retainer pins were compared to the MF/Hesston?
In a previous video I think it was $14 for two. Not sure but it was unreal amount
4:06 why do u have so many gas cans lol
It's definately a knife arm !!!
SO according to the package its alloy steel C43 which is equal to 1045 SAE steel alloy. Its nothing more than a basic carbon steel.
many horseshoes on the rafters @ 18.58 ????
Very easy to spend a fortune on machinery
You forgot wiper arm, that’s what Deere calls them haha
thanks for the video wes
Hopefully no more problems Wes...
Hey Wes as always love your channel bud... Check out Farming fixing and fabricating!!! He's from around where I'm from.... He's got some awesome videos especially one of his 333 CASE big baler back up and going that reminded me of what you went through with the Hesston. Keep being real!!!
You should rent Tim that heston and a tractor to pull it and pay him per bail .
1/1024th??? That's major. Pocahontas was 1/64th to 1/1024th and she was exonerated by the media. That's plenty of wear according to them.
As the troll says: that Baler sucks in farm simulator 17. What were you thinking wes? Lol
The reason Wes know's so much about this equipment is because he has been working on em for years you fuckin Moran's.. You're welcome Wes. lol... Peace, God Bless America.. Trump 2020....WOO HOO...
Que the Nor'easter Wes. Can you believe this shit? take care my friend...Jack
How about whatever you want to call it lol
Wes you are letting haters hate. Chill m8
Good day to you Wes
Afternoon Wes
would'nt be because it sat outside for the last 8 years what happens to steal after it sets and rusts for years ? what happens to the rust ?.. it wears away oh ya krons dont rust while sitting outside....
Comment
The Baler whisperer.
donnt for get a wood spliting and bucking viedo
That's not what the "MF" stands for, LOL.
Didn't you mean "Lame Men".
whats your email
First
Are you not using the Krone anymore?
Swamp Rat , Wes hasn't been using the Krone because it's power unit ( 8530 JD ) has been in the shop getting it's transmission repaired