I can see that it really didn't print that well. It was full of micro-bubbles from not flowing at a high enough temp. I could even see that it was not flowing well when you were pushing it through the nozzle,.. It was like peanut-butter. At 290-310C it flows fast like it should and does not have time to compress in the nozzle and bubble up. I could easily tell that your resulting part was very brittle and much easier to break than it should have been. I used to print it that way too, and thought it was normal, but it is not. You also usually need 102-104% flow (to compensate for shrinkage) for the speeds you are running. I never run it that fast unless the temps are even higher yet. People also ALWAYS need to measure the actual thickness and put that into your program instead of assuming it is always 1.75mm. - Most of the time, it is 1.68mm form shrinkage by the time you get it. If you had printed it at those higher temps then it would have been rock hard, very shiny and bright (or completely translucent if you had been using the clear), and the threads on the bottom not so easily torn off like that when removing the part. -- To see what it should look like, take the end of your thread and melt the end of it down into a nice size bead slowly with a heat gun. You will get a nice sample of how translucent and tough it really is when it is printed right.
I followed the manufacturers instructions with temperature's and flow rate. I like the strength PC has but it is not the easiest to work with - high shrinkage, bed adhesion, very high temps, etc.
I run PC almost exclusively in my printer. I would somewhat normally agree with RubberFishFight's statement but the guy opened the vacuum sealed product and used it. It would have had to sit out for a week for it to be that bad just from humidity. I live in Georgia and have high humidity here all the time. - Still, it does not get that bad unless the filament has been out for a week or more without protection of any kind. Personally, I use a modified de-hydrator mounted high above my printer to feed the filament from directly and dry it out for a couple hours before starting a print that i want high quality from.
@@alexandrevaliquette1941 I use capton tape on a heated bet set to about 115C. - i also spray it with Aqua-net hair spray (specifically the super-hold purple can one), as it is really nothing but mostly liquid pvc/nylon, and PC sticks to pvc/nylon on the heating bed quite well when printing. Only way to prevent some types of shrinkage is to heat the whole printer up to about 100c or so in a large enclosure or to insulate the bed area so the whole part can stay that hot. Printing PC at room temps is like trying to print poly-C with your printer shoved into a deep-freezer lol
Just quickly, you have just reviewed and tested a couple of different clear filaments. The polycarbonate and the Tech-G. Which one would think was the most transparent of the 2. Looking a printing some display pieces and use a backlight on them.
I've tried the Polymaker PC-MAX and eSun ePC - I much prefer the eSun ePC. Prints much nicer, PEI bed works great (unlike with PC-MAX), doesn't need as high a temp. Super strong and great finish. I would use ePC for practically everything if it wasn't 2x the price of PLA.
I really dig your filament reviews man. Is it possible you can use a more scientific method of testing the strength and/or elasticity of the filaments? Like with a gauge that measures the pressure at which it breaks and the point up to the breaking?
270 C is a bit hot. Try 230-245, for small parts even can be 215. Great video PC is my favorite material to print with. The cooler you print the clearer it will be. High temps seem to make it bubble.
+GetLoFi PC-Plus recommended temp range is 250c-270c. This PC-Plus will be the ultimate 3D Printer parts material as it's stiff, strong and can withstand very high temperatures.
n+Tech2C Well then I am not sure what they are adding to the PC because it prints fine at 230. Keep in mind the thermal lag of your hotend which can also be +-20 easy. I like this stuff www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LAJNS22?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 then again I'm in USA and it gets here super quick. Yes PC is the future, between that and ABS. Most people will not be printing in PC for a little while because their printers will MELT by doing so. Stop PLAing around. :-) It snapped with the pliers because it was too hot during print. It should just delaminate all thread like.
+GetLoFi Thanks for your comments. Stop PLAing around indeed :) although it's so easy to print... If any part delaminates when stressed then that implies the printing temp was too low. At 270 this was a solid piece of PC - very hard, almost like glass.
wonder how it would work to print lines of this inside the nylon you printed that you said was better than the nylon bridging material, (I just commented cause I came from that video to this one thanks to youtube suggestions :) )
Yep, a $70 hot end is beyond my means, but I can go out, buy a lathe and a mill, learn how to use them, and machine my own from scratch. That's definitely less expensive.
huh probably polycarbonate mixed in with stuff. normal polycarbonate needs a much higher hotend+bed temp I heard at least. Like 280 min? Probably mixed with abs! I also heard it pretty much needs an enclosure at least and warps like creazy. I got mine from another brand arriving soon :O
I am thinking to get a custom designed windshield 3d printed for my motorcycle (bajaj Dominar 400) . Should i use pc or pla or something else? Please help with links to buy in india😇
shouldnt the weight scale on the spools be graduated instead of linear. 2cm of filament around a wider arc should be heavier than that same number of layers closer to the core. So.. neat idea, but likely more there for looks than accuracy.
Bought some pc plus clear just from watching this so them sending you some worked lol. Its a great deal considering you get a 8x8 piece of buildtak with it.
+TheLukey21 Hey, congrats on the purchase. Agreed, the builtak is a bonus. I'm about to print PLA on it, and from what I've experienced so far I don't think it'll need any heat.
Is there a binding treatment you can do with polycarbonate like there is with abs and acetone? i know from working with sheets of poly that there are welding glues, but theyre fairly expensive
+RJ Wilson You want to use some Methylene Chloride (also known as DCM or dichloromethane). it's not too expensive, if i recall correctly you can get it for £2-3 a litre.
Could it be melt by fire from matches or cigaret? I like to use polycarbonate plastic to make vandal-proof case for a device, is it good choice for that purpose?
Hello, what is the largest part you printed sucessfully with PC? I tried something about 170 mm long and the warping made it impossible. Also do you think it would be possible to print the raft in PLA so it sticks on glas and then change to pc for the part?
+Lukas Proprentner PC seems to warp a lot. That's why Polmaker include a sheet of BuildTak to overcome that issue. I suggest purchasing a sheet of BuildTak for your PC, based on my experience. I'm not sure if PC will stick to PLA, but the warping of PC would render the PLA futile as a raft I would have thought.
I may be somewhat late, but here's your answer anyways: PCMax (now called PC polymax) is regular Polycarbonate. PCPlus (used to be called PolyLite) is a polycarbonate filament that's supposably easier to print, but has much less impact strength (3.4 kJ/m², as opposed to PCmax having 25.1 kJ/m²). You can find more info on the datasheets.
What does rework mens? I have a prusa i3 if you want to see some of my first videos, what have you done to yours to print so fine? Is it only the fillerment?
I have been working with heat forming PC (not in 3D printing, though). Just like any plastics, you shouldn't be huffing the fumes from them anyway. PC does smell at a certain temperature. But just because you can't smell at the moment doesn't mean that it's releasing fumes. Always keep your 3D printer in a separate and ventilated room no matter what substrates you're working with.
@@truantray They are not mutually exclusive. Polymers may decompose and release toxic compounds at work temperature and still be food safe at room temperature. Simplest example PVC: All PVCs start decomposing below melting temperature; they need stabilising additives to be processed. And I guess there's a reason PVC is hardly ever used in 3D printing. Still, food grade PVCs are available (but not as filaments AFAIK)
Basically every printer. You only need a printer that goes up to 270-ish degrees Celsius at the nozzle and 110 degrees Celsius on the bed. Also recommended is an all metal hot end and maybe also an enclosure.
one problem with all of the filament you are talking about Do not ship to Iceland. so i need keep ordering some filament from china end up to be west of money,
+Halldór Grétar Svansson That sux. I'm surprised you can't get this stuff shipped to your country! Did you try sending them an email asking if they can ship it to you direct?
Try and print a functional part without the PC tearing itself apart from warping stress. Nice idea, but still not practical for most consumer printers.
What do you mean by that? Do you mean it splits afterwards or during the print? If you are talking afterwards you are supposed to anneal it at 100c for 2 hours afterwards, That releases stress from the parts.
PETG isnt actually that tough. I printed a part in petg, and accidentally twisted it in the wrong way and it shattered. I have used the same filament with similar settings and it was ductile. I repirnted it in PC and it didnt break despite me hammering it with pliers. There would be no way petg would handle that.
It's supposedly important to anneal the plastic after printing as per the manufacturers specifications to increase strength.
I can see that it really didn't print that well. It was full of micro-bubbles from not flowing at a high enough temp. I could even see that it was not flowing well when you were pushing it through the nozzle,.. It was like peanut-butter. At 290-310C it flows fast like it should and does not have time to compress in the nozzle and bubble up. I could easily tell that your resulting part was very brittle and much easier to break than it should have been. I used to print it that way too, and thought it was normal, but it is not. You also usually need 102-104% flow (to compensate for shrinkage) for the speeds you are running. I never run it that fast unless the temps are even higher yet. People also ALWAYS need to measure the actual thickness and put that into your program instead of assuming it is always 1.75mm. - Most of the time, it is 1.68mm form shrinkage by the time you get it. If you had printed it at those higher temps then it would have been rock hard, very shiny and bright (or completely translucent if you had been using the clear), and the threads on the bottom not so easily torn off like that when removing the part. -- To see what it should look like, take the end of your thread and melt the end of it down into a nice size bead slowly with a heat gun. You will get a nice sample of how translucent and tough it really is when it is printed right.
I followed the manufacturers instructions with temperature's and flow rate. I like the strength PC has but it is not the easiest to work with - high shrinkage, bed adhesion, very high temps, etc.
I run PC almost exclusively in my printer. I would somewhat normally agree with RubberFishFight's statement but the guy opened the vacuum sealed product and used it. It would have had to sit out for a week for it to be that bad just from humidity. I live in Georgia and have high humidity here all the time. - Still, it does not get that bad unless the filament has been out for a week or more without protection of any kind. Personally, I use a modified de-hydrator mounted high above my printer to feed the filament from directly and dry it out for a couple hours before starting a print that i want high quality from.
Hi Rawze, What bed surface or glue or anything to you use to stick it to your bed? At what temperature do you print it?
thank you for sharing info.
@@alexandrevaliquette1941 I use capton tape on a heated bet set to about 115C. - i also spray it with Aqua-net hair spray (specifically the super-hold purple can one), as it is really nothing but mostly liquid pvc/nylon, and PC sticks to pvc/nylon on the heating bed quite well when printing. Only way to prevent some types of shrinkage is to heat the whole printer up to about 100c or so in a large enclosure or to insulate the bed area so the whole part can stay that hot. Printing PC at room temps is like trying to print poly-C with your printer shoved into a deep-freezer lol
Just quickly, you have just reviewed and tested a couple of different clear filaments. The polycarbonate and the Tech-G. Which one would think was the most transparent of the 2. Looking a printing some display pieces and use a backlight on them.
+Bugcatcher3d
I think the polycarbonate was a little clearer.
I've tried the Polymaker PC-MAX and eSun ePC - I much prefer the eSun ePC. Prints much nicer, PEI bed works great (unlike with PC-MAX), doesn't need as high a temp. Super strong and great finish. I would use ePC for practically everything if it wasn't 2x the price of PLA.
What are your print settings?
I really dig your filament reviews man. Is it possible you can use a more scientific method of testing the strength and/or elasticity of the filaments? Like with a gauge that measures the pressure at which it breaks and the point up to the breaking?
you should try printing your quad copter arm in Nylon with a Polycrabonate center infill layer
That would require 2 extruders right?
Rubafix989
Yes
Just came across your channel! Great stuff, I've been meaning to try out PC. I may have to go out an get a roll now!
+Hoffman Engineering
Hi There! Thanks for watching!
270 C is a bit hot. Try 230-245, for small parts even can be 215. Great video PC is my favorite material to print with. The cooler you print the clearer it will be. High temps seem to make it bubble.
+GetLoFi
PC-Plus recommended temp range is 250c-270c. This PC-Plus will be the ultimate 3D Printer parts material as it's stiff, strong and can withstand very high temperatures.
n+Tech2C Well then I am not sure what they are adding to the PC because it prints fine at 230. Keep in mind the thermal lag of your hotend which can also be +-20 easy.
I like this stuff www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LAJNS22?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 then again I'm in USA and it gets here super quick. Yes PC is the future, between that and ABS. Most people will not be printing in PC for a little while because their printers will MELT by doing so. Stop PLAing around. :-)
It snapped with the pliers because it was too hot during print. It should just delaminate all thread like.
+GetLoFi
Thanks for your comments.
Stop PLAing around indeed :) although it's so easy to print...
If any part delaminates when stressed then that implies the printing temp was too low. At 270 this was a solid piece of PC - very hard, almost like glass.
Bubbling is often due to moisture in the filament, even vacuum sealed filaments can have absorbed water.
wonder how it would work to print lines of this inside the nylon you printed that you said was better than the nylon bridging material, (I just commented cause I came from that video to this one thanks to youtube suggestions :) )
Wish my hot end could hit those temperatures. I'm not quite ready yet to spring for an E3Dv6.
Make your own hot end..
Yep, a $70 hot end is beyond my means, but I can go out, buy a lathe and a mill, learn how to use them, and machine my own from scratch. That's definitely less expensive.
have you tried metal compound filaments? just saw copper and brass on hobbyking.
what is a preferred printer for printing pc+????
Have you tried to print PC from village plastics on Lulzbot Taz 5? What settings would be different?
huh probably polycarbonate mixed in with stuff. normal polycarbonate needs a much higher hotend+bed temp I heard at least. Like 280 min?
Probably mixed with abs!
I also heard it pretty much needs an enclosure at least and warps like creazy.
I got mine from another brand arriving soon :O
I am thinking to get a custom designed windshield 3d printed for my motorcycle (bajaj Dominar 400) . Should i use pc or pla or something else? Please help with links to buy in india😇
shouldnt the weight scale on the spools be graduated instead of linear. 2cm of filament around a wider arc should be heavier than that same number of layers closer to the core. So.. neat idea, but likely more there for looks than accuracy.
Bought some pc plus clear just from watching this so them sending you some worked lol. Its a great deal considering you get a 8x8 piece of buildtak with it.
+TheLukey21
Hey, congrats on the purchase. Agreed, the builtak is a bonus. I'm about to print PLA on it, and from what I've experienced so far I don't think it'll need any heat.
Does it print well on PEI?
Is there a binding treatment you can do with polycarbonate like there is with abs and acetone? i know from working with sheets of poly that there are welding glues, but theyre fairly expensive
+RJ Wilson
You want to use some Methylene Chloride (also known as DCM or dichloromethane). it's not too expensive, if i recall correctly you can get it for £2-3 a litre.
which extruder are you using?
Could it be melt by fire from matches or cigaret? I like to use polycarbonate plastic to make vandal-proof case for a device, is it good choice for that purpose?
Think about your question...these are all thermoplastic and will all melt below 300C.
so, polycarb or petg? does both work with prusa i3 printer with no modifications to it?
PETG is easier than PLA.
Hello,
what is the largest part you printed sucessfully with PC? I tried something about 170 mm long and the warping made it impossible.
Also do you think it would be possible to print the raft in PLA so it sticks on glas and then change to pc for the part?
+Lukas Proprentner
PC seems to warp a lot. That's why Polmaker include a sheet of BuildTak to overcome that issue. I suggest purchasing a sheet of BuildTak for your PC, based on my experience.
I'm not sure if PC will stick to PLA, but the warping of PC would render the PLA futile as a raft I would have thought.
Have you done these test with various PLA filaments?
+David Fowler
Checkout my latest video, I test ABS and PLA.
It is possible to know what's the printer that you use ? I am actually looking for a printer witch able to print the PC materials.
You just need a printer that can heat the hot end to 270C.
hi. thanks for the video. Is polycarbonate ABS or PLA? I have just this day come to know of 3d printing and im very interested.
Thanks
PC is PC. Not, PLA or ABS, Also, Nylon and TPE (flex) are all different families
Could you let me know what the difference between pc plus and pc max is?
I may be somewhat late, but here's your answer anyways: PCMax (now called PC polymax) is regular Polycarbonate. PCPlus (used to be called PolyLite) is a polycarbonate filament that's supposably easier to print, but has much less impact strength (3.4 kJ/m², as opposed to PCmax having 25.1 kJ/m²). You can find more info on the datasheets.
which 3D printer are you using?
which laget height do you use?
+Christian Haagen (Christians Vlog)
Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework.
I print in many layer heights, from 0.3mm down to 0.1mm.
What does rework mens? I have a prusa i3 if you want to see some of my first videos, what have you done to yours to print so fine? Is it only the fillerment?
Is the PC as strong as injected molding parts?
No, never will be.
you can sand any 3d filament !
this stuff sadly is just mixed PC. it means no high temp resistance
Polycarbonate need not be brittle, which is why it is used in things like "bulletproof glass."
What nozzle size do you use?
0.4mm
how does it smell ?
He said it doesn't
I have been working with heat forming PC (not in 3D printing, though). Just like any plastics, you shouldn't be huffing the fumes from them anyway. PC does smell at a certain temperature. But just because you can't smell at the moment doesn't mean that it's releasing fumes. Always keep your 3D printer in a separate and ventilated room no matter what substrates you're working with.
things don't need smell to be toxic. Pc is toxic.
@@digibluh FDA food safe. Facts can be your friend.
@@truantray They are not mutually exclusive. Polymers may decompose and release toxic compounds at work temperature and still be food safe at room temperature.
Simplest example PVC: All PVCs start decomposing below melting temperature; they need stabilising additives to be processed. And I guess there's a reason PVC is hardly ever used in 3D printing. Still, food grade PVCs are available (but not as filaments AFAIK)
What is the best 3D printer for PC?
Basically every printer. You only need a printer that goes up to 270-ish degrees Celsius at the nozzle and 110 degrees Celsius on the bed. Also recommended is an all metal hot end and maybe also an enclosure.
one problem with all of the filament you are talking about Do not ship to Iceland.
so i need keep ordering some filament from china end up to be west of money,
+Halldór Grétar Svansson
That sux. I'm surprised you can't get this stuff shipped to your country! Did you try sending them an email asking if they can ship it to you direct?
did only try to order it from ebay and amazon
i will try to send them email thank you.
Any one got settings for PC?
Try and print a functional part without the PC tearing itself apart from warping stress. Nice idea, but still not practical for most consumer printers.
What do you mean by that? Do you mean it splits afterwards or during the print? If you are talking afterwards you are supposed to anneal it at 100c for 2 hours afterwards, That releases stress from the parts.
All that hassle for a high temp setup for PC, yet in the end, the PETG part appeared superior in durability :O
PETG isnt actually that tough. I printed a part in petg, and accidentally twisted it in the wrong way and it shattered. I have used the same filament with similar settings and it was ductile. I repirnted it in PC and it didnt break despite me hammering it with pliers. There would be no way petg would handle that.
Mine warps like ABS. Anybody else have this problem?
+Cowboy Boots
Yep PC has a very high shrinkage rate. You've gotta have a hot bed and use the recommended adhesion material for your PC.
+Tech2C yup used recommend settings and build tac
Didn't see this video at first...
Should have tried it without a raft.
TWO adverts inside the video, the video is just a long advert for Polymaker as well. I won't be back.
Poly Carb AKA Lexan
I see dead people when u print raft.
Why ? :D
meesternadim
Wut
printing on a raft =(
+ms3bani
I feel the same way... But Polycarbonate is worth it!