How to 3D Print Polycarbonate like a Boss!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ม.ค. 2019
- Polycarbonate is a very interesting material to 3d print, as it has a high temperature resistance and is also very strong. It isn't all that easy though to get a successful print, as it doesn't stick well to anything but itself and warps like crazy. In this video I share my tips and tricks to get it to print nicely on the Prusa i3 mk3.
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New subscriber, new to 3D printing had an Ender 3 for four months and love it. Getting into design and CAD the freedom to print useful objects is awesome. Really like you clear approach in explaining so please keep it up for 2019. Respect to all makers !
Printing Raise3 brand PC at 280 nozzle, 100 bed, 40mm/s, on glue stick on a glass bed on my Ender 3 Pro with a Micro Swiss all metal hotend. It's inside an enclosure without heat, just the heat from the printer. No warping, printing almost as easy as PLA. Extremely hard, tough, and durable printed parts. It's amazing stuff.
I’m pretty sure that’s also the same with PolyMaker PC. For some reason, Raise3D Premium PC has the exact same mechanical properties as Polymax and PolyLite PC, (depends on Color.)
Brilliantly done, very informative and instructional video - thank you
Warp like crazy? Not my experience. I was selling my PC+ filament because I thought it was hell to print. Nobody bought it so I decided to try a print a camera tripod part using common settings. I was surprised to see it warped much less than ABS. Bed was 110/100 and extruder 250. No enclosure, just Ender 5. Masking tape for grip. The print came out almost perfect. I'm now a polycarbonate fan! Maybe our filaments are different...
I was able to print PC on Creality's glass with ceramic coating and silicone heater pad. With 140C at surface Benchy prints without issues. I tried printing 220mm quadcopter frame and corners lifted when it was almost done. Still usable. And I don't have an enclosure. I guess the trick is in being able to bring bed temperature close to Tg of the material.
Good tutorial!
Thanks :)
Is it possible to list all the setting you use? Screen shots or whatever. The article you based your profile off of,is no longer available.
Yeah thanks mate for share your experience. I'm now printing my first part with PCMax, it is pushing my printer to its limits! But any way it looks awesome. Cheers!
Thanks for this like experience describing video, I like it
New to the channel keep it up!
For the enclosure I use a blanket. The heat of the heated bed alone and the small area it can heat up with excellent heat insulation makes it super hot in there! To the point I advice you to be careful. If you don't print abs etc often and don't wanna spend money this is a great way!
Interesting
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks! I'm just getting started printing polycarbonate in my IKEA lack enclosure with my i3 MK3S+ and never even thought about the PETG parts overheating in the enclosure. I'll keep an eye on the temperature in the enclosure and maybe start printing the prusa parts out of PC to increase the heat. Great tips!
this is great! could you share the settings for the ones we don´t use slic3r? :D
I was able to complete a print back when, it stuck pretty well to the stock plate ON an Ender3 it was polylite. The only problem was it cracked in half in the middle. But it somehow completed the print
..even though the bottom half shrunk like over 1%
and I think I accidentally preheated it for the wrong filament for the first few layers I had no idea what was happening at the time.
*The print turned out perfect besides for a few slightly curled edges and having to epoxy the pieces together
great video!! I was looking for buy a printer that are able to print Nylon and Policarbonate only.... but not sure if Prusa will work... looks like it needs a lot of modifications.... do you know where I can get the Prusa parts all with polycarbonate that can stands higher temperatures? it's a pit that is not full metal...
You can download all the parts on the official prusa webside.
Polycarb likes to be printed really really slow.. dont go fast.. it will warp.. printed pc for years before changing to nylon.. I feel that nylon or nylon carbon is so much easier to print as compared to pla, petg.. just the moisture issue..
Good tutorial 🏅🏅
Thank you for sharing your experience. Which polycarbonate are you using?
www.3dware.ch/Filament-PC-Red-1.75mm-1Kg-En.htm
@@DarkArtGuitars, thank you.
If I buy a 3D printer that is build with an enclosure would that work with pc?
I find it very difficult to print, but I discovered that it will stick very well to smooth PEI sheet and ASA juice (5g ASA to 50ml acetone).
I print PC with my Flashforge Adventurer 3 on 240°C Hot End and 100°C Build Plate. Works fine.
Well done, thanks for sharing. I regularly print production parts in PC on both a Prusa mk3 and a MakerGearM3ID. On both machines I use Layerneer's Bed Weld on kapton, the only difference being the smooth steel bed on the Prusa vs glass on the M3. Honestly, my only problem has been getting them off without pulling the kapton right off of the bed; once cooled the parts don't like to release. I agree about the enclosure - you shouldn't even think about PC without one. The hotter my enclosure gets, the less warping; if you're printing at 290 ambient temp in the enclosure shouldn't go below 45-50, IMO. The trickiest thing about PC is annealing it properly. If a part has sharp transitions in volume, it part can crack as it cools. Very slow cooldown followed by annealing at 100 for at least an hour, followed by another slow cooldown gives me beautiful and strong parts.
The link for the article does not send you to the actual article...
I also use this pc profile for a while and i got realy nice results. I try ICE PC from amazon and it works okay. Not the best one. I use a hairdryer to preheat my enclosure.
Have you tried printing the first layer in PETG and then switching filament and printing the rest in polycarbonate?
No, never heard of that, I might have to try it
@@DarkArtGuitars I've not actually tried it myself, but have read reports of people having success with this method. The idea is that the PETG sticks to the build plate and the polycarbonate sticks to the PETG. You may need to experiment with the build plate temperature. Let us know how you get on.
The link to the article appears to be broken.
I started with black Polycarbonate, printed a giant RC truck cab, no enclosure,, 285c/120c 16 hour print. With a tevo tornado. I’ve attempted printing with the PLA, can’t figure this crap out to save my life
Where did you get that new extruder assembly??
You can download the files from the prusa website and print them yourself.
@@DarkArtGuitars did you need to make any changes to the printer profile??
recommend me a good polycarbonate printer please
Can poly carbonate print nicely on ender 3 printer...?
Please i need an answer
You will need an all metal hotend. The standard teflon lined one is not suitable for temps over 250C
the forum post is down
You can buy 300x300mm polycarbonate sheets on mcmaster
Sticks to nothing, except my hotend when it fails.
I made this fucker stick, you have to use the old school acetone on the bed, while its cold + rubbing ABS filament. you have to make the dissolved plastic layer thick. Then I heated it to 105C. It sticks well. I still have terrible stinging though.
Protip: put a blanket over your printer. it's a bit risky considering fire but if you're careful it can get TOSTY in there with just the heat of the bed !
no risk, no fun, right?
@@DarkArtGuitars :P
Your z POM nuts are assembled the other way around
I tried a polycarbonate sheet with a very light coat of glue and it sticks very well when 105c and releases super easily below 60c. But I'm also suspicious. Even tho my filament recommends 270-310c print temperatures my prints are more flexible than PETG/ABS prints.... They're almost like nylon..which is slightly confusing. I'm so tempted to order this other PC filament I saw but I don't have much money left
to make car intakes
My worry is the fumes I heard they are very dangeros
Also my 3d printer is 3d printed so I don't want my petg parts to melt!
What's up with his hairline
kick the script dude, it sounds unnatural.