I like it. Thanks for showing this. I never thought of just showing a “little bit” of the streaks/stains as shiny. This simulates a fresh spill which looks great, and tells the story of how the other streaks got there. Even just part of the bigger streak accomplishes the same goal. Great tutorial
Lately I've been using the "steel wool and vinegar method" for rust, and it works and looks great!! I have been painting rust, but now I will stick with this method. Can't beat real rust. Looks completely authentic because it is real rust. A light touch and it's awesome. I follow with a thin brown wash here and there, over the dried rust.
This is something i wanted to make a video about for years. In game textures we call this specular highlights. It's a must there and i never got the flat coat everything mentality.
Great stuff ! This is my fourth time watching this video in 3 months ! You are a God amongst model makers ! Head and Shoulders above most similar channels. Thankyou for your knowledge and your time 🙏👍🙏
Many thanks Panzer , good to hear ! Glad to be able to put old oils to good use ! The windsor& Newton Sansodor is a Low odour solvent used for oil colours , so I figure it works for enamels - will go gingerly 😉 ! Thanks as always for your input ! Good luck in college ! Spent a lot of time there myself ! Best Edward
Yet another great tutorial! I gain a lot of insight from your videos, so most appreciated. Keep ‘me coming! Your DAK videos will be helpful , as I am in the early planning stages of my first multi-model diorama.
Panzermeister36 good work and thank you for sharing i always learn something from you and your videos , one thing i have noticed when it comes to fuel spills and similar effects keep in mind these are stains in real life they don't necessarily have to have color in them these can be modeled simply with the wet effects alone always balance these things out just a word of advice for my fellow modelers.
@@Panzermeister36 thank you for responding you're correct spills happen and it should be modeled with all the attention we give the other effects, hell i can't count how many times i have spilled paint and other fluids going in a airbrush cup lol but i appreciate your work and the imprint you continue to put on this hobby that we all love.
Hello there! First, thanks for all the great tutorials about this lovely hobby. Wanted to ask, are all these effects on this tank done on the satin varnish you did after basecoat/chipping? No more varnish in between? Do you varnish after all these effects? Thanks and keep up the awesome work.
Good video, but about 2:34 can I get Similar results with pigments only (I have vallejo rust pigments) and how should I apply them? should I brush some dull coat (revell clear in those tiny paint cans) and then apply the pigment, or should I apply thinner and then pigment. I think that with The clear underneath it would stick better, but with thinner it would blend better.
Hello Evan. This is Can from Turkey.It's been 2 years since I started modelin. Could you please make a video about the paint, how you make the transitions, how you determine the color choices, and what effects you give according to which colors in general. If possible, with a slow explanation and giving all the details..
Nice job as usual Panzer , though this is an old video, I've returned to it as I would like to add these effects to some models , but don't have any of the above products! I know you like using oils for weathering and I happen to have a number of W n Newton colours all the ones necessary ! Can one use any to replicate oil and grease and also can W and Newton's Sansodour be used as enamel thinner with Ammo and Mig grease products ! Best as always. Edward
Yes you you certainly use black/brown oil paints to make grease and exhaust stains. I'm not 100% sure about that thinner you've described as I have not user it myself, but standard oil thinner should work. Maybe test it out on the underside of the model to make sure it won't damage your paint.
I have used thinned Tamiya X-22 gloss brushed on and it works well. It's and acrylic so you have to be careful to not lift up the base colours but it's not really an issue that will actually happen.
Oil paint thinner is not very dangerous (not like acrylic thinners etc.), but I have a small floor fan in the room that I use because it can get quite warm from my lights, so I expect that helps to disperse any thinner fumes as well. I have the fan close by my desk, aimed at the door so it moves the hot air out of the space.
@@Panzermeister36 ohhhh okay gotcha. I’m learning everything now. I found your channel on accident and decided to go buy a kit for the first time in my life.
+Masked Vigilante the base green and black on the wheels I painted probably 4 years ago. It sat for a long time that way, and now I've gone back to it. So no I don't have video of painting the base colour (XF-65). I started the videos with the winter camouflage and pines application.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks, actually, I was looking for the video where you applied white camo, as it looks very realistic, like the crew applied it in a hurry.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanx. I was thinking the surface tension wouldnt be as thin as oil thinner. But that can be lowered with a drop of dishwashing liquid maybe?
Thanks for your videos they are really nice and the techniques are well explained! Question completely out of topic... I have some products from Wilder's nitro line that are kind of drying in the shelves, they have like a fairly thick layer of dry "pigment" under the transparent thinner. Is this normal? did it happen to you?
I know what you're talking about. It has happened to a couple of my Wilder enamel products. It also happened to my AK rust effects and Mig Productions filters. It's just what happens to enamel products over time....I'm not sure if it can be undone and the product still used. It's a shame, and that's part of the reason why I use oil paints most of the time.
4 ปีที่แล้ว
Yeah! it is weird, it doesn't really happened to my Ammo's enamel products. I guess they are more "shelve stable". Yeah! I know you're a big fan of oils, I struggle with dry time. Any suggestions?
Actual modelling oils like those from Wilder and 502abt dry much faster. For artists' oil paints, well you have to leave the blobs of paint out on cardboard for a few (about 6) hours first to soak out most of the oil. That will help them dry faster on plastic.
4 ปีที่แล้ว
Hey man! thanks so much for your tips. really appreciated
@@Panzermeister36 Pity. Would have been interesting to see an attempt at balancing the artifictual wear and tear with the real version. Anyway, learning a lot from your tutorials as they are, so, I am still a happy tanker.
Have you had any of the Wilder washes get gloppy/gooey in the bottle? I have some brown shadow wash that’s unusable because of this goo. I’ve shaken, stirred and mixed with no improvement. Any thoughts? Does that tank have a propeller???
Yes, that happens to all enamel washes over time. Its happened to all my old AK and Sin Industries ones too. That is partly why I prefer oils for enamels for most effects....they don't die after a few years. Also, yes, it is an amphibious tank, which is also why it's kind of boat-shaped and has practically no armour. I would not want to fight in this thing!
Hey panzermeister, Where do you buy your Wilder weathering oils? their site doesn’t appear to ship to Canada (only available shipping option in Checkout is to the USA) yet they say they allow shipping to Canada.
+TroubleTwo yeah, the only Canadian distributor was Hornet Hobbies which recently closed down. I'm not sure what to do in the meantime...there may be some Modelling Suppliers in the US that ship here instead. Sorry, that's all I know.
I’m trying to focus on your tutorial and all I can hear in my head is: “Here is the current sitrep and your orders for deployment, effective immediately. Enemy agents destroyed our early warning radar network, allowing several Bear bombers to penetrate our air space….”
+Bruno Laplante it is hard to get them in Canada now. Hornet Hobbies in Toronto used to be the official distributor in Canada but they closed down last year. You might have to order from the US, or of course use another brand instead as an option.
+Karl Serracino you can message me on Facebook or Instagram. Links should be in the video description. Otherwise you can send me an email at panzermeister36@gmail.com
Please check out some urgent news from the US regulators that could prevent any TH-cam video such as this from being broadcast. The regulators in the US basically want to remove from TH-cam any content that could appeal to children under the age of 12 of which it could be argued is almost everything. I came across information about this after watching the latest TH-cam post from “Andy’s Hobby Headquarters” which is primarily tutorials on building plastic kit models. This is very serious so please watch the latest video from Andy’s Hobby Headquarters where you will find a petition that you can sign and the ability to post a comment for the regulators to read.
+Andy G 1. they so not want to remove content meant for 12 and under viewers from TH-cam. They want to make targeted ads and comments and likes unavailable on those videos to comply with a 1998 law. Please read the actual documents; Andy is not correct. 2. My channel Analytics say that 0.0% of my viewers are under the age of 13 so it's irrelevant. 3. I don't live in the US so the FTC can't fine me $42,000 regardless. 4. I've marked my videos as not for kids. 5. Andy's petition is pointless as what is the goal? To make TH-cam exempt from the act? To remove the COPPA act??
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 91 | คู่เอก "คมอาวุธ vs อเล็กเซย์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V0RkEfYFsgM/mqdefault.jpg)
Good job!
I like it. Thanks for showing this. I never thought of just showing a “little bit” of the streaks/stains as shiny. This simulates a fresh spill which looks great, and tells the story of how the other streaks got there. Even just part of the bigger streak accomplishes the same goal. Great tutorial
Thank you!
Lately I've been using the "steel wool and vinegar method" for rust, and it works and looks great!! I have been painting rust, but now I will stick with this method. Can't beat real rust. Looks completely authentic because it is real rust. A light touch and it's awesome. I follow with a thin brown wash here and there, over the dried rust.
This is something i wanted to make a video about for years. In game textures we call this specular highlights. It's a must there and i never got the flat coat everything mentality.
Yeah, if I flat coat, it's well before this stage. Otherwise everything looks muted and boring...
Great job. I can remember I refilled grease into road wheel cap when I served for APC driver.
Great stuff !
This is my fourth time watching this video in 3 months !
You are a God amongst model makers !
Head and Shoulders above most similar channels.
Thankyou for your knowledge and your time 🙏👍🙏
+Guy Lawrance thank you very much!
I have also watched this few times
Many thanks Panzer , good to hear !
Glad to be able to put old oils to good use !
The windsor& Newton Sansodor is a Low odour solvent used for oil colours , so I figure it works for enamels - will go gingerly 😉 !
Thanks as always for your input !
Good luck in college !
Spent a lot of time there myself !
Best Edward
Thank you :) I have about 4 weeks left until I graduate. Almost there!
@@Panzermeister36 Congratulations !
Did an Arts degree , went on to Medicine !
Retirement is easier watching your videos !
Stay safe Panzer !
Edward.
Man, you are rocking this! Loved every sec of the video, educational and entertaining. Well done mate :)
Yet another great tutorial! I gain a lot of insight from your videos, so most appreciated. Keep ‘me coming! Your DAK videos will be helpful , as I am in the early planning stages of my first multi-model diorama.
Panzermeister36 good work and thank you for sharing i always learn something from you and your videos , one thing i have noticed when it comes to fuel spills and similar effects keep in mind these are stains in real life they don't necessarily have to have color in them these can be modeled simply with the wet effects alone always balance these things out just a word of advice for my fellow modelers.
That is a good idea! That would give some better variation, since these streaks should be simulating anything from water to oil to fuel.
@@Panzermeister36 thank you for responding you're correct spills happen and it should be modeled with all the attention we give the other effects, hell i can't count how many times i have spilled paint and other fluids going in a airbrush cup lol but i appreciate your work and the imprint you continue to put on this hobby that we all love.
The tip with the sticky note as a mask is golden
Really like the layered effects on the streaks.
This is a series I shall be watching many times without a doubt - there's a lot to take in. I'm really enjoying messing about with oil paints! Cheers.
Thank you! I plan to make a similar series shortly featuring a Panzer Grey Tiger Tank.
@@Panzermeister36 Good man - sign me up for that one!
Great video, thanks. These are really nice subtle techniques that add a lot to the vehicle. The burnt out tank idea sounds great!
Very nice! Looks great and realistic.
Interesting Video and the background music vom Ace Combat. Nice work!!!
Yes :) thank you!
Oh nice tips! The sticky note mask is inspired.
Superb, truly superb, impressive weathering job!
Hello there!
First, thanks for all the great tutorials about this lovely hobby.
Wanted to ask, are all these effects on this tank done on the satin varnish you did after basecoat/chipping? No more varnish in between? Do you varnish after all these effects? Thanks and keep up the awesome work.
Good stuff Evan!
Total Awesomeness
Good video, but about 2:34 can I get Similar results with pigments only (I have vallejo rust pigments) and how should I apply them? should I brush some dull coat (revell clear in those tiny paint cans) and then apply the pigment, or should I apply thinner and then pigment. I think that with The clear underneath it would stick better, but with thinner it would blend better.
Learning lots from this series of vids. Thanks Evan.
Отличная работа вы супер
Great job, thank you
Thank you!
Thank you so much, videos like these are really appreciate! I learned a lot!
Hello Evan. This is Can from Turkey.It's been 2 years since I started modelin. Could you please make a video about the paint, how you make the transitions, how you determine the color choices, and what effects you give according to which colors in general. If possible, with a slow explanation and giving all the details..
Good to see and good to learn. Thanks man!
Great video Evan, I always enjoy watching and always learn something form you :)
Looking wicked.. thanks for sharing!!
Awesome work!
Another great video. Thanks
Learned a lot! Thank you!
Nice job as usual Panzer , though this is an old video, I've returned to it as I would like to add these effects to some models , but don't have any of the above products!
I know you like using oils for weathering and I happen to have a number of W n Newton colours all the ones necessary !
Can one use any to replicate oil and grease and also can W and Newton's Sansodour be used as enamel thinner with Ammo and Mig grease products !
Best as always.
Edward
Yes you you certainly use black/brown oil paints to make grease and exhaust stains. I'm not 100% sure about that thinner you've described as I have not user it myself, but standard oil thinner should work. Maybe test it out on the underside of the model to make sure it won't damage your paint.
Many thanks for this video!
Its me again with another question; could I drybrush orange/red acrylic paints on areas were I want rust? I dont have many supplies.
Hmm, I'm not sure. I've never tried that so I can't say how it will look.
@@Panzermeister36 Well, I'm gonna try it, thanks for your help!
Great videos! What’s the best place to buy these products online? AK site? I want to support my local stores but all are closed. Thanks
I've ordered some stuff from AK'S website and it worked out fine. But I hear you...I always try to buy at my local shop if I can.
Panzermeister36 thx
Please tell me, how to dilute Wilder and other oil paints , for example , Pebeo oil paints ?
Great tutorial, really helpful. Just a question please. Is it okay to use thinned tamiya glossy varnish for wet surface?
I have used thinned Tamiya X-22 gloss brushed on and it works well. It's and acrylic so you have to be careful to not lift up the base colours but it's not really an issue that will actually happen.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks :) I have a gunze varnish on the base color so it will be ok :)
Superb💚
Question: what do you do for ventilation when using your oil paints and thinners? Great videos! I’ve been binging on them for days now lol
Oil paint thinner is not very dangerous (not like acrylic thinners etc.), but I have a small floor fan in the room that I use because it can get quite warm from my lights, so I expect that helps to disperse any thinner fumes as well. I have the fan close by my desk, aimed at the door so it moves the hot air out of the space.
Is Mig not sold in stores? Every hobby store in town has every brand discussed on your channel but no MiG
MiG Productions is now part of AK Interactive. It is not the same as Mig AMMO.
@@Panzermeister36 ohhhh okay gotcha. I’m learning everything now. I found your channel on accident and decided to go buy a kit for the first time in my life.
Thanks! I hope you enjoy the hobby 😊
Thanks for another great weathering video. Is there a video how you started with the painting of the T-40, I can't find it?
+Masked Vigilante the base green and black on the wheels I painted probably 4 years ago. It sat for a long time that way, and now I've gone back to it. So no I don't have video of painting the base colour (XF-65). I started the videos with the winter camouflage and pines application.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks, actually, I was looking for the video where you applied white camo, as it looks very realistic, like the crew applied it in a hurry.
th-cam.com/video/WVzq0wlNLCo/w-d-xo.html
@@Panzermeister36 t(h)anks!
I found some oil paints that use water for thinner. Are these any good for weathering? Or should I stick with regular oil paints and odorless thinner?
Honestly I haven't tried water-thinning oils myself. Some people swear by them though. I will look into this soon.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanx. I was thinking the surface tension wouldnt be as thin as oil thinner. But that can be lowered with a drop of dishwashing liquid maybe?
Yes, that's exactly how I would do it myself
@@Panzermeister36 I do that all the time for making washes with my acrylics. I call it "wet water". lol
Very beautiful ... bye bye from Rieti italy 😉🇮🇹
Thanks for your videos they are really nice and the techniques are well explained!
Question completely out of topic...
I have some products from Wilder's nitro line that are kind of drying in the shelves, they have like a fairly thick layer of dry "pigment" under the transparent thinner. Is this normal? did it happen to you?
I know what you're talking about. It has happened to a couple of my Wilder enamel products. It also happened to my AK rust effects and Mig Productions filters. It's just what happens to enamel products over time....I'm not sure if it can be undone and the product still used. It's a shame, and that's part of the reason why I use oil paints most of the time.
Yeah! it is weird, it doesn't really happened to my Ammo's enamel products. I guess they are more "shelve stable".
Yeah! I know you're a big fan of oils, I struggle with dry time. Any suggestions?
Actual modelling oils like those from Wilder and 502abt dry much faster. For artists' oil paints, well you have to leave the blobs of paint out on cardboard for a few (about 6) hours first to soak out most of the oil. That will help them dry faster on plastic.
Hey man! thanks so much for your tips. really appreciated
Ever considered doing a model which is designed to run? For instance one of Tamiya's 1/16 models?
No, I don't have much interest in doing anything more than displaying these once I'm finished. I also don't have the space for 1/16.
@@Panzermeister36 Pity. Would have been interesting to see an attempt at balancing the artifictual wear and tear with the real version. Anyway, learning a lot from your tutorials as they are, so, I am still a happy tanker.
Have you had any of the Wilder washes get gloppy/gooey in the bottle? I have some brown shadow wash that’s unusable because of this goo. I’ve shaken, stirred and mixed with no improvement. Any thoughts?
Does that tank have a propeller???
Yes, that happens to all enamel washes over time. Its happened to all my old AK and Sin Industries ones too. That is partly why I prefer oils for enamels for most effects....they don't die after a few years.
Also, yes, it is an amphibious tank, which is also why it's kind of boat-shaped and has practically no armour. I would not want to fight in this thing!
I really dig this video. I am gonna follow your techniques. :-)
I’d like to see a video on how you weather WW2 British Africa campaign tanks.
Hey panzermeister,
Where do you buy your Wilder weathering oils? their site doesn’t appear to ship to Canada (only available shipping option in Checkout is to the USA) yet they say they allow shipping to Canada.
+TroubleTwo yeah, the only Canadian distributor was Hornet Hobbies which recently closed down. I'm not sure what to do in the meantime...there may be some Modelling Suppliers in the US that ship here instead. Sorry, that's all I know.
I’m trying to focus on your tutorial and all I can hear in my head is:
“Here is the current sitrep and your orders for deployment, effective immediately. Enemy agents destroyed our early warning radar network, allowing several Bear bombers to penetrate our air space….”
Where do you get your Wilder products ? I'm from Québec and can't seam to find them anywhere in Canada.
He gets them from Adam. I think there is a shop in Canada that distributes them.
+Bruno Laplante it is hard to get them in Canada now. Hornet Hobbies in Toronto used to be the official distributor in Canada but they closed down last year. You might have to order from the US, or of course use another brand instead as an option.
Do you have a personal website to send you a private message please?
+Karl Serracino you can message me on Facebook or Instagram. Links should be in the video description. Otherwise you can send me an email at panzermeister36@gmail.com
triple sweet
wow😀
Tali inhantala '44'.Its a finnish war film,real tanks.Stugs Kv's etc.
Please check out some urgent news from the US regulators that could prevent any TH-cam video such as this from being broadcast. The regulators in the US basically want to remove from TH-cam any content that could appeal to children under the age of 12 of which it could be argued is almost everything. I came across information about this after watching the latest TH-cam post from “Andy’s Hobby Headquarters” which is primarily tutorials on building plastic kit models. This is very serious so please watch the latest video from Andy’s Hobby Headquarters where you will find a petition that you can sign and the ability to post a comment for the regulators to read.
+Andy G
1. they so not want to remove content meant for 12 and under viewers from TH-cam. They want to make targeted ads and comments and likes unavailable on those videos to comply with a 1998 law. Please read the actual documents; Andy is not correct.
2. My channel Analytics say that 0.0% of my viewers are under the age of 13 so it's irrelevant.
3. I don't live in the US so the FTC can't fine me $42,000 regardless.
4. I've marked my videos as not for kids.
5. Andy's petition is pointless as what is the goal? To make TH-cam exempt from the act? To remove the COPPA act??
The gun is bent and it annoys me :D
+Haramasch Abrasir no it isn't. That's how it's supposed to be mounted. It does look odd though.